#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 185 of 1
I used to have tons but all I got left right now are some 1440p monitors, about 15-20 fans, Corsair and Lian Li fans, quite a few sets of RAM, DDR4 and DDR5
And everything is fairly new tbh
(I take care of my stuff)
Dude that would be sick! Imma let you know at a later date about mid next month when my friend gets his pay and we will be looking at a PC for him
Alright, yeah just hmu if you need
Just installed some of the fans
can't install the cpu cooler just yet
I have to wait for new thermal paste to arrive 😔
oh wth you just have 1440p monitors laying around? and then 15-20 fans 💀
my computer is already noticeably more quiet
just the thing that makes the most noise is the cpu cooler
Lol yeah
Does anyone know how many gf is the cherry mx blacks?
When you label your switches does it mean the bottom out?
we can only specify bottom out force
as you freely set the actuation point
so the force required to actuate the switch is different depending on where the actuation point is set
ah
I think he meant as in bottom out or starting force.
Bottom out yea
Comparing switches my Browns are the same force to bottom out as Lekkars 60’s
Thinking lighter might be nicer ngl.
and i specified the black bottom out and answered their question that ours are bottom out only
we dont have any actuation force
Of course. Actuation and starting force are different though and starting force is listed for the L45 and L60 switches I’m pretty sure.
I would assume they do as it’s as important as the bottom out force required.
anyone have a recommendation for a keyboard wall display mount?
how did u clean them tho? Im about to lube mine and was thinking I could just lube over it
Yes you can just lube over them
Don’t try to clean them you’ll just cry yourself to sleep
Where can I find black blank keycaps which look similar to the enjoyPBT blank keycaps?
Ye thats what I imagined, no way im doing that
which one better the silicone pad or the foam pad
i feel like poron is better cuz silicone can dampen sounds too much sometimes
Personal preference
Neither. They’re different.
Fyi, if you're using or going to do gummy mount/friction mount, you can't use the silicone as its too firm for the oring to compress.
But other than that it's just personal preference as they're both different material pads.
is it possible to have 1000hz polling rate on the 60he with a cablemod straight braided cable? I know that its disabled when the cable is coiled
If it's made well and no longer than 6'/2m you should be fine
i've been rocking no plate foam but I think i want to try it with the foam
can you only gummy o-ring mount with plate mounted stabs?
ive also been rocking no foam too
yeah
i've o-ring mounted the stock plate mount and stock screw ins in the redux
i bought the module so i only got pcb mounted stabs
yeah i've been able to o-ring mount my module so far with no plate foam
medium ring 40a
I might have to use the small to put the foam back in tho. not sure.
do you mean the gummy o-ring mount like a bakeneko or the small tiny o-ring mount?
i was talking about the bakeneko style
same
that ring has different sizes and hardnesses
I have a medium and small 40a. I'm using the medium size rn in my no plate foam module with stock stabs in a redux
can you get those o-rings on amazon?
anyone else notice that even if you lube the springs, not too long after, the switches start to have bad spring ping again?
my jades sounded great out of the box and now sound horrible
same story for raptors with lekker stems, sounded great, i even bag lubbed springs and now they sound aweful
Damn wish i could help rn but im abt to go to sleep 
Pretty sure the US modders here are dead as well, well some of them should be on in a few hours, someone will help you find your answer sooner or later. Anyways ima knock out. I will try to help you tmr if I can if you still haven't got any help. Cya
The lube has broken in and doesnt sound as muted when you initially lube it
I ate coffee candy and now im suffering the consequences
lubed regular switches for years, i havent had spring ping reappear 2 weeks later
oh spring ping?? Yikes
happened to the raptors, bag lubed those
left the jades as is and now they sound pingy a few weeks later too
If ur using a steel plate it can probably make the spring ping stand out more
cf,
was not there on initial use for the jades and wasnt there after a bag lube of the raptor springs
welp never had experience with cf
again, used cf plates for almost all by builds prior to the wooting, no ping issues
I lubed my springs a while ago and they’ve never been pingy (although its lekkers not jades)
hmmm
i wounder what is happening
for the raptors it makes sense, with the holes the lube just leaks out eventually, i removed those and the bottom of all the switches was covered in a thin coat of lube and so was the pcb
Maybe the butt ton of foam is helping
Idk but im assuming if ur using cf it’s probably a clacky build and spring ping will definitely stand out more
Kinda weird how the ping reappears though
shortly after
Gateron springs suck nothing new here
Crunch and ping city even on the Mx side forever
you know what im probably used to tx springs
Can donut dip with 205g0 is how I solved it
did not even consider that
For my jades
did you do both sides or just bottom side?
Just bottom
kk ill give that a go, cheers
Np
I probably should’ve mentioned that because I did that myself 🗿
not real gmk
Not GMK
any switches come out that are better than the jades yet?
nah
KS-20u is more available now but I wouldnt say those are better
and everglide has wooting compatible switches but they seem to sound even higher pitched than the lekkers so kinda seems bad
and not factory lubed at all
Just received my 60HE+ Module with Gateron Jades and i would like to say that the stock stabs are absolutely perfect
there is no wobble even if i press on one end of the spacebar. They are Buttery smooth so in my case there is no need to get long pole stabs
With stock keycaps there is no need for long poles with Jades. Only with some 3rd party keycaps that are very loose.
i'm currently using Akko Cherry Profile Doubleshot PBT Keycaps.
i'm guessing that is the reason why i don't have any such issues
These are really tight and have really minimal wobbling. Almost non existent.
Yeah it really just comes down to keycap tolerances and so forth
Most people really do not need them but that placebo affect can be a killer
Surpringsly even with all the long pole mx switches I have on hand, and use only time it was ever a "issue" was with Creams. And even then it worked fine but the stabs could be off centered easily
But they would stay connected still
Luckily they didn't give me any problems . i was ready to buy the Gateron Silver Stabs in case they where an issue.
Yeah there’s a bit too much stab anxiety in this channel and at large I think lol
i mashed my enter key in anger once and that was the only time i noticed it on my jades and MT3 caps 😄
Thats the only time most people would notice so I advise to byu a punching bag instead of using the keyboard
solid plan
That and a lot of people think the stock stabs suck for some reason , when all it takes is proper lubing and tuning and patience
Yeah I’m very impressed by my stock stabs
Just light lube and grease and they’re awesome
honestly i really like how both the 2HE plate stabs and the 60HE module stabs sound stock, never even tuned em apart from making the spacebar quieter
what are the everglide HE switches called?
how’d you hear about it?
some Japanese peripheral people on twitter
google translates it as "glue" which is.. interesting lol
yeah some other placees translate it to like pancakes or something
I forget
was some kinda breakfast food LOL
but even the supplier I bought from didnt know
I just sent them pics
everglide will let you order direct too but they want min 500 pcs
so glue
do the gateron magnetic jades tint the rgb on the board
how much was shipping and do you mind sending me the link
and i used code AEUS05 since it in the US
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thanks gonna switch from the raptor he swtiches, I love the way they sound but i guess the magnets are too strong
i was gonna get the raptors too and stem/spring swap with the leakers but apparently the stems don’t always fit
i like the clack of the jades more
however i know the travel distance of the jades can impact the functionality
and the stabilizer issue also
are these the same magnetic jades that wooting are gonna sell on their site with the lauch of the 80 he
what issues has the magnet given you? you can also swap the stem with the lekker stem.
the long pole of the jades didn’t effect the stabilizer for you?
anyone that know where to look, find a IDOBAO ID80 V3 PCB ISO
wooting specifically said they are not gonna sell the raptor he switches because the magnet is too strong on them which messes with the sensitivity of the hall effect
You can delube that fixes the issue for me
Stem swap has no had no issues for me after that
also i hate how they tint my rgb red
removing lube from the switch helped with the tight fit?
Yea
The tolerances were so tight that you could only have the slightest bit of lube otherwise it would get all sticky feeling
ohhh i see
interesting
After that I had no problems
if i ever decide to do the raptor x lekker i will definitely take that into consideration
Was it an issue with the factory pre-lube or just if you do your own lube?
Factory pre-lube
I think if you do the OG lekkers plus raptors it won't have that problem
But the newer lekkers are lubed enough where it can be a problem
Just try before hand
If its stiff you're probably going to have to delube it
Just removing the stem lube was enough for me
what’s the bottom out force on the jades? it only states the initial force
50
I'm about half way through a stem swap project and so far no issues even with lube. I say give it a shot and see
lekker stem in raptor housing?
Yes
too orange for raptor 🙂
Hi pops
These switches be looking tasty
Going to do another stream tonight and build a mystery board
:0 oki! What time you thinking
if the Lekker 2.0 is made with UHMWPE like c9 tangies i think they could be the smoothest switch ever
Lekker V2s just have less wobble.
But they're working on Lekker Pros or something similar so for that one maybe.
After dinner, probably not until 7ish MST give or take.
So 8 for me alr
Thatd be nice
is the wootility beta for jade compatiblity still in beta?
I can't believe I'm saying this
But I actually like the default case without foams more than my wood case
Sound wise?
Thoughts on the QK65 v2?
i feel you there sometimes
Yea
I haven't tried a wood case yet, but the default case is my favorite so far
compared to alumaze, tofu and freebird
No thoughts yet. They have no software available for it and arent providing any information. None of that makes me feel good

i have the QK75N and it’s definitely the best mech i’ve built
Their normal boards are really good but jumping into the HE arena without software (or a released software), thats install only (not web based), that doesnt support per key RGB, analog controls, multi-polarity switches, etc etc manes you give up all the things that make a normal mech board great and then you don't even get a good HE experience.
Just went live [GB]
I have a QK60 and it's one of my fav boards
the protagnist looks so good
i knew QK was making a Neo HE but idk they were making other HE boards whoa
qk65v2 classic seems good let's just see how the HE implementation is
software wont even drop until after they start shipping
concerning ngl
$150 cables oof
Super concerning
I think the Neo HE information was incorrect and its really the qk65v2 classic
Not having software worked out is a NO from me
Same here
Also the switches they are using for it are a closed bottom raptor, so a little reduced travel (like 3.8mm) but exact same switch otherwise. So I dont expect great tolerances.
No details or testing before GB ends is a red flag for n even if board seems good
Ahh I heard rumors of it being jades but raptor makes more sense
With the travel and what not
Raptor HE
Linear, hall effect
Pre-Travel: Analog
Total Travel: 4.0mm
Operating Force: 42g
Bottom-out Force: 52g
Spring: 16.0mm, NAS wire Single-Stage spring
Stem: POM
Top Housing: PA12 NYLON
Bottom Housing: PA66 NYLON
Factory Lubed
Mounting pins: 2pins
Neo Lavender
Switch Type: Linear, Hall Effect
Operating Force: 42.0g
Bottom-out Force: 52.0g
Spring Length: 16.0mm
Spring Type: Single-stage
Travel: Analog
Full Travel: 3.8mm
Top Housing: Nylon PA12
Bottom Housing: Nylon PA66
Stem Material: POM
Mounting Pins: 2-pin
Lubrication: Factory-lubed
Copy and pasted from the infor of both switch pages. No modifications made. If its not the same damn switch its one hell of a coicidence
Plus just looking at the switches you can see they are the same
I wonder if the pbc is also designed by whoever did the venom pcb
It be like that sometimes
It's a reasonable assumption. I havent really looked at the PCB
indeed :D
After all the fucking around with the 60he I decided for the 80he Im just gonna get plastic because I know it will just end up sounding the best
Highly likely, as there’s like 4-5 companies who use the exact same PCB
Can’t remember all the names as I’m not home rn
My alumaze makes an excellent wight in the meantime
there's a bunch that use pcbs from gtech but htis pcb doesnt look like gtech
and neither does the venom
Venom is Chad
how fast does Zoom75 special edition come in stock
If I still had my frog tkl I would grab one
Is the board even available or is there any software for it yet?
Ah okay
I think I'm just bust out the spray paint and paint the case purple
Hi, is this a good thing to change all of the number key and esc ?
I'm only using the wooting to play Valorant, so I only use ZQSD
is anyone selling their spare base wooting 60he plastic case
It's your preference, do whatever you want
and you have profiles that you can switch inbetween if you aren't using it for Valorant
why don't more PCBs do like multi-compatible ansi/iso etc. like Zoom75.
then many ISO users would get the nice left shift and ANSI users would get big enter easily.
probably some light issues, when flipping switch, but still worth it I guess.
Outside of testing with pro players in Korea right now nah
It's usually due to sensor placement struggles.
true for HE I guess, but without tho
guess it's just a bit trouble for most ISO users to rebind some one key that would be missing with big LShift to an Fn layer instead, but once you know it, it's almost no trouble. One of the ISO keys is always gonna be very useless/little used, always fine to make it Fn layer key.
well also keycap row-compatibility tho yeah, that's bigger issue - but this is one reason why like all keycap sets should include blank keys also, for all unique rows, something for example wooting doesn't include.
But there is no issue with sensors doing big LShift compatible with ISO, but still too much hassle I guess, also with stabilizers, keycaps, cost.
ill sell my Alumaze lol
Howmuch
Nah I prefer the plastic case
Wait where are you located?
I'll have to do a shipping estimate and let you know
very based
stock wooting is the superior sound sig
Facts.
My only dilemma is liking the feel of Jade switches but hating how they sound.
we're all running around trying to have the best plate/foam/mod config when the answer was in front of us all along haha
too clacky and loud?
don't mind the loudness, but it's way too clacky.
It's ear gratingly high pitched
I can't explain it but it sounds like a bugs exoskeleton lmao
Lubing helps tone it down a bit but still not a fan.
When gaming it's not an issue because I can't really hear it but I don't enjoy it too much if am typing in silence
i like this comparison haha
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CLIP DESCRIPTION:
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this??
YES
your keyboard squeals like its in pain haha
Come hang out for a bit. Building a mystery keyboard tonight - https://www.twitch.tv/thethockfather
mine's just lying around atm, the stock 60he case right?
Anything special people do with the Tofu Redux?
or just the stock case and stock padding will work well?
^ the stock redux case
i put wheel balance weights in mine
instead of a brass weight
im cheap ¯_(ツ)_/¯
I bought the brass
But idk what else to do just making sure I don’t wanna open it 100 times
Do a lot of people use killamat?
i got the best sound from my tofu with the stock wooting foam
as opposed to the stock tofu foam
What else do you have done to yours? I’d love to talk to somebody that has the same thing going.
anyone know if there is any modding or anything for 80he? like base replacements or anything recommended?
Debating if i should order 80he in 1st wave or wait for later waves to address possibly any issues
80he 
i used wheel weights, and secured them in place with masking tape. i covered the entire bottom of the case with a layer of masking tape. if you watch the original tempest tape mod video by Tempest, he does this as well. I feel it reduced the ping of the alu but could just be placebo. i dont use any pcb foam. i use the pcb silicon sticker rings that are provided with the module.
it's not really like finalmouse/mice releases in general if that's what you're thinking re: 80he
waiting for later batch is unlikely to do much beyond just meaning you wait an extra month or two
nah planning on a titanium cerakote
Noice
it's kind of funny how much mice releases have scared people from buying batch 1 stuff in other categories
It’s with all industry’s now your the beta tester and if a product gains traction only then will they fix the issues.
Triple A games etc.
Gummy oring mount , tape mod and polyfill
how do you make sure your polyfill is anti-static?
Yeah
Honestly fuck it we ball
Are there any plastic cases that work with the Wooting minus the og case?
I want a purple one to represent my team
On 80?
Anything that fits a gh60 should do
GK61?
The usb port is always off center though
Can you link a video on how to do the gummy and what o rings to use?
Those only account for burger or tray mounting and sliding the pcb to the left
I'm gummy o-ringing so I guess custom or tofu acrylic is my only option I guess

Well yeah most people go for more ptemium options when swapping cases
what stabs do you use?
Stock
I tried using TX but the stabs were too tight
stock pcb mount or plate mount?
Ended up going back to stock
Plate
still the stock steel plate?
idk if i can gummy o ring
I mean tbh I don't like the sound the tofu metal makes
PC plate
Final result as of now
interesting that the tx doens't work with that
pc plate for me was the most loosey goosey of all i've used
It fit in
But the tolerances were too tight
Yeah I know what you mean
43 seconds · Clipped by DK Player · Original video "This Mod Will Make Your Tofu Feel Amazing | Gummy O-Ring Mod" by Shoobs
Just make sure wheb u put in the usb c in 1st
Then push down the spacebar down
Just dont damage usbc
Metal doesn't do the HE switches too well imo
My dumb ass didn’t look at the orientation of the switch then I took these out
Is this correct?
Looks good
I ended up preferring the default case for sound
Honnestly south facing is fine just affects the rgb

I’m glad y’all are actually helpful here
When I built my wife’s computer and I joined other discord, it was super complicated to ask people questions and everyone was an asshole and wanted to make jokes all the time
Keyboard spaces be like that
you casn
https://mech.land/products/graveshift-o-rings?variant=41067113185433
Small size, 30-50a
InputRice o-rings are now available in Canada! Supports gummy mount mechanical keyboards like Bakeneko60, TGR Unikorn 60, Phantom65, Parallel Portal, Monokai Kei, AEBoards Constellation, Hause Engineering HAND and more! The 60% o-rings were designed to be thinner than standard o-rings to allow for screw-in stabilizers on both the spacebar and ba...
the pc building discord is a joke
i meant keyboard
oh i dont know about those then
this is the only one i really frequent
oh my god thank you for this
I think I just spray paint the case
is there anything else i need to consider when gummy o-ring mounting?
looks good
Not bad at all, now slap on some new keycaps (jk they're just as fine, but do it if you want to 👀 )
whats a good softness for an o-ring?
30-50a
is there a big difference from a 30a to a 50a?
should i just go in the middle and get 40a?
does the softness effect the sound?
There coming in 😬
Cheap for now
Gonna get something nicer
ive had only good experiences with cheap amazon keycaps
i just make sure its double shot pbt
just want them to look nice atm dont really care about quality
I want these
but they are in intrest check
you should join the IC
nah you're all set
Yeah i had zero issue. Almost as if the where 4mm and not 3.5mm in length.

hollup this looks familiar-
the shape-
man its beautiful
It really is
ty so much! i got the 50a
this is good to hear
hopefully i dont run into any issues
thats what i use
Yeah, I feared that I would have to get new stabs. I do have to say that for now, I'm waiting to buy a case, so I'm just using a pad to put the module on. I don't know if that might change things with a case.
Screw in stabilizer support and possible conflicting key positions.
What’s that?
Also they are dbl shot
Ohhh the interest check got ya got ya yeah I joined it
IC = interest check haha
those should be good
i dont think it should change
Good to hear, since as of now, stock stabilizers are awesome with Jades.
i cant believe youre using it without a case
Had to make a staggered purchase; otherwise, if my purchase exceeded 150 euros, I would have had to pay 250 euros in tax.
So, I first bought the module, then I'll buy the Alumaze case. Too bad because the 25% discount on the case was great, but it would cost me an extra 250. Bummer.
i know wooting at a silicon one
yeah not looking for a silicon one, if its silicon its going to collect dust/hair etc and prolly needs to be cleaned daily
yeah lol
Coping. That guy must be using it on a farm....
silicone is a dust magnet but it is easy to clean as well.
My wrist reat getting shiny with use

i wish you luck
are you gonna sand it and primer it?
Yep
Blizzard … 70€ for one key. They are trolling
Nah, those are normal usual artisan keycap prices
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guys is this seller legit? i never use alibaba
Min order size 4000 pieces
hmm
It's legit yeah
Aight thanks
Alibaba is for bulk orders, use Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006362746758.html
pretty sure tho you can at least have big left shift for iso without issues, but they decided the hassle of it all is not worth it, and i agree.
i'm saying more in general and for non-HE why stuff like these are not more common, also this way pushing other stuff to be compatible with this.
😨
wootings?
ye
While maintaining screw in stabilizer support? I don’t think so but IIRC; the 60HE AVR ANSI/ISO shared the exact same PCB just differently populated. This means that it could very well be possible to have an ANSI/ISO PCBA in one.
Let’s get 7u bottom row and split right shift before adding that 
in the end it's not needed for ISO, since you can rebind Shift and Ctrl keys for ESDF position to keys right to them in some games.
shine jumpscare
cancelled 80HE order, because of many things like no Tactile and too big and too expensive overall, and JIS right shift too far away.
better to wait for some multi-compatible Zoom75
at least Wooting should have made JIS PCB long RShift compatible
Yup. Stock spacebar cap and pbtfans cap that I have fit perfect. My GMK spacebar cap is hella loose.
considering buying a spacebar kit from a pbtfans set that looks like my GMK set so I can swap because its so shit
yikes
but JIS has a short rshift, why would they change the layout for no reason???
because it's far away from comfortable use
also its not physically possible to add two different shift types there, it would mess with stabs and I dont think the switch locations would fit on the PCB
Genuin question. What are you using right shift for? It's by far my least used key on a keyboard
thats what you think, but people that regularly use JIS probably use it just fine. if you're switching from a different layout to JIS and you dont require JIS, then you arent particularly the demographic wooting is looking to sell JIS to.
because probably don't use right shift like that, but many non-JIS users do, that's point, and also for JIS users as well that maybe want longer shift
i'm saying for like ISO people that want big RShift of JIS, still can't really get this JIS because RShift is even more problematic than even current ISO LShift
without wooting doing ISO/ANSI multi-compatibility, this JIS would have been good alternative, if RShift
too bad
if you learn home row typing and often with RShift usage, you can't really go back
it's all about like most comfortable typing, also moving fingers as little as possible (from like F - J row)
is there some 75% orthogonal kbs, but like with exploded F row at least, kind of not really orthogonal F row. and at least space over Right arrow and beside Left arrow.
but it's always so annoying with them tho, have to take them all around, with other devices, since it's too annoying to change between different kbs.
Tbh I'm home row and never use right shift like ever
Well I have it mapped to function now that's how little I use it
I know it's suposed to be keys left of YHN are right shift and the other side is left, but just ended up using only left shift myself
I barely use shift in general
Same, r-shift never gets shined on my keyboards
mine gets dusty
@blazing torrent @harsh dove rebuilt that board last night using the cannonkeys stock stabs that came with the board and everything worked breat BUT the stabs sound like straight dogshit
someone has like ergonomic 75% mostly exploded kb, with nicely placed modifiers etc. like as if kb would be made today, how it would be made, without influence of typewriters etc.
not bastardizing it, and also not split
Assuming you left the stabs stock and didn’t lube them right?
Nope I lubed them. They just sound like ass. They are low quality clip-ins. I didnt clip the legs or anything since the board will be a giveaway, but yeah the stabs sound bad
Whoever wins it, if they replace the stabs will have a solid sounding board though
I guess we're just mostly stuck in typewriting kb layout forever.
need a kb like Cloud Nine ErgoTKL but hotswappable, ISO and low profile switch if possible
Keychron not including like Row 3 Del keycap with their kbs/keycaps? really lame
in the end ergonomic kbs area really not needed at all, even if you use your kb a lot
Ah okay, damn fair enough
I wanted that too haha but tbh the 60HE doesn’t need to be in a board like that
Punched my order in this morning
500$ for a keyboard is crazy
That doesn’t mean 500$ isn’t a lot lol
It is lol
so when does like Zoom75 get in stock typically, how long does it take to get it on average, or kbs similar
Nice dude that’s exciting
if only I could stick my wooting in it
I dont wanna buy any non HE boards lately lol
they just ran the gb or whatever for it so the stock was just leftover stuff befoore
Idk if they're doing full rotating stock always or it's just what vendors have had for extras and such
Me n Tirade share this same sentiment but also couldn’t pass up on this board, gotta support Randall
yeah it's an excellent board
I do plan to break my HE only for a kei v2 extra if I can with the EC pcb lol
I plan to pick up the protag and a January extra when they pop up but that might be my last non-HE buy.
its never the last
Anyone know what keycaps these are by chance?
KBDfans Clear Aurora Keycaps provide an ultra-glossy finish while adding a subtle transitioning colors from blue to green. These keycaps help provide a shined look without the need for polishing. KBDfans Clear Aurora Keycap Set Features: Cherry Profile Manufactured by KBDfans Material: Translucent Polycarbonate Legends
perfect! Thank you @quiet bay
Oh nice, yeah that looks great. I just turn off my RGB usually
I usually don’t use RGb but I like this effect lol
first downside is magnets dont seem great
keys that I have set to 4.0 wont actuate (like windows)
Which firmware are you using?
oh that looks really nice
and the room is lit by sunlight rn lol
I think there is a newer version, I'd check to be sure.
possibly a new franken switch candidate for RGB fans
thanks, there totally is a new beta
updated to beta4
beta4 has the newest flux detection update I believe
can confirm that does make it work at 4.0
my gain might be a bit high so turn this down lol
I alternate with a jade at first
then typing test of new switch
stock from factory (unlubed)
Freebird gang
cat lmao
I cleaned tfoutt ofit
als o dnt buythese switchese
I am not making typos itts going this shit
doing*
trying higher actutatiton pointstttt and noi luck yetee
LEDs are eoff
0.5mm right now
thats wild
Have you unplugged and replugged since the firmware update?
Do you want to troubleshoot it a bit more? I can send you some tools
yeah that would be greatt
Idk if this is the culprit but have you checked for any EMI near the board
nothing has changed but sswappingnn tto the neww everrglides
turned off LEDs + turned off tachyon mode and it seems to be a tad better
reduced rapid trigger slightly as well
I can pretty much type now
Oh interesting this didn’t seem like a power issue
yeah not sure what is going on
but I can type at least
jades are def still the best option
Good you can type now yep
Maybe make a post in #1019755933959733258
yeah leaving the house in a bit but when I get back I will
Don't make a post. Those guys are swamped already and trying to troubleshoot a 3rd party switch would be a waste of time. Just ping me when you get back and I'll send you some links to test the switch input response.
If you can shoot me the links and I'll take a look, I'm still here for now
ok standby
Hey guys and gals this is my 1st hot swappable keyboard (wooting 80) that i have purchased and so i am new into the whole modding scheme. What are your opinions about replacing some keycaps with resin detailed ones. I personally bought the keyboard for gaming purposes only. Well such keycap affect the performance?
Needs personality
Otherwise it’s every other 20+ yr olds ikea setup
But my opinion is just that, my opinion
I feel that, I don’t mean add bunch of RGB or clutter your desk with crap
Got to wait another day now since that coat won't be fully dry

These are all the setups I’ve had
All id personally use also
Well have had more but the others were just clutter
All real clean
But now I went simple life with hot swap monitor mount
Last one is the best one
Still need dual monitor tho
It was good but I don’t need a desk that big anymore
Yeah hotswap is nice
Bleh back to home depot I go
And I went single monitor as realized dual monitor just made me look at YouTube, discord, etc too much instead of being absorbed in game I’m playing
Yeah it can be distracting depending on who you are/what you’re doing
I’ve heard that same sentiment , which I agree with
Oled for when I play single player like Horizon Forbidden west rn

Tryna make a grown man setup
This been my favorite but just because I did a wood desk again
It doesn’t look like it but it’s a stained butcher block
Ah okay very nice
Went too dark on stain but it is what it is
Wood desks are always nice
Yeah it almost looks like veneer
Oh that’s because of the poly top coat
Chose water based this time so it looks like that
Gotcha
Right yeah from direct sunlight
Mmhmm
That’d bother me too
Yeah
Looked very nice but I was like meh when it happened and that’s when I got the Karly which was the favorite one
Honestly you have the Optimum Tech setup basically
Yeah i also noticed that
P much now that you say that lol
Esp with the hotswap mount
Yeah I used to just swap the whole arm portion and someone told@me about it
Can’t believe I did it for so long

I have mine in my spare closet
My closet
Yall got big closets lmao
lol I just have a big clunky dual monitor stand with the 27” hanging off the back
Only use the 24” lol
I don’t really play single player games tho
And I’m not as obsessed with minimalism lol
Don’t mind the mess. Just a candid picture but yeah. Monitor in the back just unplugged lol
I swear its looks like you're playing in a class room xd
she actually works from home. i just play video games 
I like how the desk matches the floor and walls
then you hae a modern pc on the left that throws it all off
Its like a strawberry shortcake
I thought of brownies lol
I can see that too
dark keys are the outside and lighter keys are the fudgy inside
Novel keys has those in PBT. Search for Cherry Cooper Keycaps
It's one of my fav PBT sets
Love you dude, thanks
lmao maybe not, they're also sold out everywhere
lol yeah it's in pieces cuz i've been swapping out parts
Is it possible to get a different color aluminum trip for wooting 60he+ Alumaze60?
you mean the yellow accent?
yep
Nothing confirmed iirc but they are looking at providing other color accents
thx for the info
digested lekker edition
tape mod tends to make boards louder

ah just read a sticky, we're getting next generation Lekkers called Lekker Pros (TM). Fun 
i have the two HE with jades, how compatible are tx AP's, long pole version or nah
i heard they can have tolerance issues
i've had issues with almost every stabilizer i've tried so far tbh, i'm mostly just wondering if i'd need long pole or standard for my setup
Is this beta flrmware from December 2023 better for jades than the latest stable release?
Oh damn, thats pretty sick. Really dig the "coroded" green accents
Use the latest beta 2.7.3 v4 I think
I just received the module a couple of days ago and thought that the most recent patch would be more up-to-date. Thank you for the reply.
Anyone know third party coiled cables I can get that are cheaper
Also when i touch the side of my tofu redux case I feel like its electrocuting me
Yeah the only problem is finding the set lol
GMK and NK versions sold out everywhere
Unless I wanna spend $700 on eBay
seems reasonable
wtf
yeah defo reasonable
There’s the NK PBT set as well but also sold out everywhere and can only find this Used set on eBay lol
It's not like I'm not ready to even pay $100 for a keycap set but $700 seems fine
700 on keycaps when you can buy 3 80hes 😔 ..
Any tips?
Anyone try cerakeys?
is this true about the cable?
Get a hot needle poke it into the stuck part and let it cool
Use a lighter or something to heat the needle
Hopefully it has enough strength to pull it out otherwise new keycap lol
No, the default cable does the same
This is only about cheap third party coiled cables
A lot of third party ones don't work with tachyon mode
yeah that was more what i wanted to know, just wanted a white coiled cable unfortunately wooting does not sell any
I think they were releasing more colors soon™
Ill let you know( this is just for suspense)
Here's hoping
I've had to do basically that after shearing bolt heads off
Figured it'd possibly work for this
try n1 didnt work very well but i think i can melt it into something i can take off
//
not working 
I wonder if using a hot glue stick would work
i do not have it, but i think its too small anyways
basically need to make sure the coil isn't too long so the total length isn't over the recommended 3m. most of the ones i've seen have big ol coils that account for almost 2m of wire alone
Just take the stem of an extra switch and a drop of super glue and when it dries just pull it out
Be careful not to get glue in the area that isnt black
got this cool cable in today
hey do we know the rated power draw of the wooting stock cable and the wooting coiled cable?
in wattage
it's not really the cable wattage that matters (it's not drawing anywhere close to max wattage of any USB power protocol)
If you buy a high quality cable that is within the length specs it likely will work fine
im not talking for the wooting speficially im just trying to gather some information
im just after the stock cable wattage
That I don't know
like could it charge a laptop if you were in a pinch
USB-C spec is up to 60 W on a standard cable without e-marker
Anyone mind helping me out the mods I was planning to do was swich the keycap for pre lubed jades plate swap to PC plate PBTFANS keycaps burger mount and tofu 60 redux no tape mod cuz I have foam and I'm debating whether to leave the stabs alone or regrease them
Is there anything wrong with that
And could I make it better in any way
Sounds good
tape mod and foams do different things to the sound, so try each/both and see what you like
Id also put the silicone from the PC plate in-between pcb and plate instead of regular plate foam
I find it sounds a lot better
yeah, the PC plate rattles for me with the poron plate foam. dunno if the foam's just too thin and not making enough contact or what
Does the pc plate at wooting come with silicone
The 60he+ I bought the keyboard not the module
ah
Not ready to build my own keyboard lol
Yes
But any other mods I should make?
None that I could think of
And should I leave the stabs alone regrease them or swap them
If your plate is rattling please check all of the plate screws to ensure they are tight.
Wait until you get it and see how they sound
Oh? Mine didn't do that with the foam
THAT USERNAME
ye i did. it wasn't like a hard plastic on pcb rattling but the vibration/resonance of the pc plate
(I since switched to silicone and like that better)
THE PFP TOO
Also one more thing
I'm swapping to pbtfans for just cherry profile but is oem really that bad
Like is it worth swaping for
If oem is what wootings keycaps uses no it's quite nice
as someone with 3 cables that all support tons of wattage, yes essentially
someone in here explained it's the how the chips inside the usb c handle voltage and such
I don't mind either, if you already have cherry keycaps you like I wouldn't get new ones just because of OEM profile
Maybe I'll skip that then
oem and cherry are preeeetty close so i wouldn't switch just for that
unless there's just a set you like the look of better
I'll be the devils advocate
I hate OEM and would gladly switch to cherry
Especially when you get used to GMK and how much lower it sits than other stuff
I LOVE THE CROSSHAIR ADD ON
but they will never restock
Fr are they as good
Yeah they're decent
They look awesome
clone quality is always a roll of the dice so 
got same one but with black connectors it really nice
it's just my 60he in a freebird60 with gmk wob
so custom in that it's modified but not custom
I knew the keys were abs lol
yeah its a cool cable, feels like a guitar cable
i hand lubed a whole Two HE worth of jades and felt it was worth it 
I thought top housing was pre lubed and the water system removes extra lube
side rails on the stem, and bottom housing have lube from factory
Ig he needed a numpad for excel
I need to finish lubing my brothers 60he
Oh I thought you only need to lube the springs
I've done half and put the rest off for months now
I lube every piece of the switch
Top and bottom housing, stem and spring
I will say
That is one thing, because it's Gateron so what's new, that needs to be done imo
if you don't lube anything else you should do the springs
Gateron springs are so terrible hate them with a passion
Well if your on a budget should you spend 40 bucks for krytox 205g0 and tools to open switches or just live with the pre lube
where you at that 205g0 is 40 bucks
I mean I'm MUCH more concerned about performance than sound
205g0 is 20 tools are 15
40$??? I got an entire lube kit with 205g0 and tools for 20$ CAD
I've lubed 2 60hes and still have enough for at least 1 more
Doing a very tedious/thorough lubing job
Post inflation blues
Got this kit in September or December
but if you only care about performance then just get teh switches and use them
technically it can make it faster
But is the sound terrible and improved greatly with lubed springs
that is true
Oh I was gonna buy from wooting but that's a lot better
Yeah wootings has higher quality tools but that's not necessary
The Amazon/AliExpress kit works just fine
gotta do the initiation way like the rest of us
spend 12 hours because you don't want to spend money on switch opener
and use screwdriver which takes 9 years
one could argue you're more likely to get genuine krytox blend from wooting or other known vendor
but honestly having used some knockoff 205g0 for a while before getting the real stuff i don't think it makes much difference.
(it will all split sooner or later)
Mines been going on fine for 5 months now
I'll say this
you won't know what you're looking for like, like the springs, and probably won't notice
I'm one of the few who has complained about springs but I've also lubed over 10000+ springs and switches
and usually use quality TX ones in my MX stuff so i notice when springs are bad
it's more on the order of like 2-3 years +
So there is basically no difference to the untrained ear
yes
1000%
the only switches I've foundthat people actually notice how bad the springs are is Cherry stuff
those springs are literally the worst
even with lube they still ping most times
Awesome no way I'm gonna spend an afternoon and 30$ for a hair of a difference
if we could enumerate it
it's really like a 5% difference is all
for how switches come these days I should say
lubing is more or less "if it bothers you as stock, do it"
Lubing makes a huge difference
Stock didn't bother me but I wanted to see how much better it was
For old stock switches I would agree and been at this hobby for 4-5 years
My jades are better for sure, but would i say huge difference? Nah
yeah the lube dampens a bit of the rattle but it's still pretty noticable imo
Lol I was thinking about the L45 but the jades sound so much better
like 99.9% of people would agree with you
THe one sound test we have is nice, but need more to get accurate of course
But that's also in the new mounting style 80he has etc etc
Switch foam or no?
So no?
No indeed
Man the Wooting case does not want to get primed
I'm on layer 3 now

Finally looks white now
Did you sand first?
does this work for the burger mount
Yea
Its sticking its just that the coats aren't thick enough
yep, that's the right size. you'll also need longer screws (e.g. M2x6 countersunk)
im looking to make my wooting sound better when i get my new acrylic tofu60, should i get a new plate like FR4? or does that not matter as much
also looking into getting jade switches from my l45s
just depends if you like higher or lower pitched sounds coming from your plate
(generally) softer plates like PC are lower, stiffer plates like alu and CF are higher. FR4 somewhere in the middle
(and the more dampening you put in the build the less that difference matters)
Am I supposed to put the foam inlay ontop of the silicone or remove the silicone and put the foam one in? because with just the foam one it just sounds like this:
mkv..
Look what I just found in my mailbox 👀👀
One or the other
for the plate/pcb sandwich it's either silicone or foam, can't do both.
at least personally there was some vibration or resonance in the plate when using the foam that I didn't like either, maybe it's the same with yours
Nothing like some Swithkeys
Thank u
Not swift and not switch just swith
Only the best chinglesh for my wooting
i like how these are always labeled as magnetic springs for some reason even though it's the exact opposite?
I guess they are labelled that way because they are specced for magnetic switches
It's not the same size as your ordinary spring and Idk what else they'd call it
"non-magnetic springs" surely
In the description I remember it didn't even say it was for Lekkers, it was for laker switches lmao
oh yeah that one lol
so for the wooting two he with jades, do i need long pole tx ap's or normal
long poles
But TX AP's can have fitment issues with the 60he plate
If you are using stock keycaps the Jades work just fine, you don't need to swap the stabs
I can confirm they are also fine with GMK keycaps, not sure about others.
i'm using aftermarket stabs and i just can't get them to not feel sluggish on the spacebar, i was hoping i'd have better luck with tx
I've ordered a set of plate mount tx ap and jades, how's the compatibility? @pastel vigil
Like I said, they can have fitment issues, so can't really tell you.
Either it'll be fine for you or the stabs won't work, can't really tell.
Ah okay, just luck of the draw then I guess
the stock stabs are perfectly fine once you tune and lube them. Especially if you have the module.
Yeah, there's too many factors to be able to reliably predict.
I have 2 sets of TXs and no luck, I know other have used multiple sets of TXs with no issues so it is what it is lol
i have the TWO HE, no module available
Oh I assumed you were on the 60he. Forget everything I've said, not sure if it's applicable to the TWOHE.
Yoy using the + or the original? The tenz guy in here was also running tx stabs with jade's on the original I believe
The +
Ah okay, I've got the original so maybe that's why
With the plate mount instead of clip in
What
Y’all taking anecdotes for fact
Many people using jades with stock stabs no issue
Yes that's what I said 🙂
Just cuz couple people run in to problems doesn’t mean everyone needs them
Also what I said, and I even told them when they would run into a problem.
i've had an issue with the stock stab of my spacebar for a while, right now i'm using fl cmmk's and they're better, but they have a sluggish feeling on either side of the spacebar
if you're sure it's not overlubed, have you checked if your spacebar might be warped maybe?
since it persists across different stabs
it does it even when it's bone dry, and the spacebar doesn't seem warped, it lies flat and tapping on either side of it while on a flat surface doesn't cause any sort of noise
strange
it's been driving me insane
and it's sluggish throughout the keystroke, or only part?
the only thing i did with my 60HE+ module stabs was plug the butt with a syringe of 205g0 and they were perfect
sorry if these are dumb questions, but to narrow down the source have you tried a different spacebar? tested the motion without the switch installed?
it actually gets worse with a different spacebar
Hey guys do you have any suggestion for creamy/thocky switches that could be good with the hi75 ?
I want a good sounding board for my wife with this sound profile
WS Morandi are popular, followed by Gateron Oil Kings. Hope this helps!
Thank you mate !


