QUICK LINKS:
Cases - #🪛│modding_faq message
Cables - #🪛│modding_faq message
Stabilizers - #🪛│modding_faq message
Switches - #🪛│modding_faq message
Keycaps - #🪛│modding_faq message
Plates - #🪛│modding_faq message
Popular Mods - #🪛│modding_faq message
Strap - #🪛│modding_faq message
60HE Module & Alumaze60 - #🪛│modding_faq message
Third Party Switch Compatibility - #🪛│modding_faq message
How Plate Material can Affect Sound and Feel - #🪛│modding_faq message
#🪛│modding_faq
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CASES
Q: Which aftermarket cases work with the 60HE? / Where can I find a case that works with the 60HE?
A: As a rule, most cases that are DZ60/GH60/POK3R compatible will work with the 60HE. Some cases may require modification such as removing extra stand-offs or may need to be mounted slightly off center to get the USB port to line up correctly. For a list of cases that are compatible with the Wooting 60HE please visit the following link https://wooting-technologies.notion.site/de7a52e2b5a941258a17e448b0c9d9b0?v=5ec0b31c59db4a51b8a86a1288249e9f (If you have a case you wish to add to the list please tag @echo heart with the name of the case, a link to the case, a photo of your installation and any notes/modifications that were required as part of the installation).
For guaranteed compatibility you can always grab this - https://wooting.io/product/alumaze60
**Q: **What case materials sound the best?
A: Different case materials will exhibit different sound signatures and customers have tried all kinds of case materials from glass, polycarbonate, acrylic, aluminum, brass, wood and more! For a list of known compatible cases please refer to the link further up in this FAQ. If you want to see some of the cases that Wooting has officially tried, you can check out this video - https://youtu.be/2GJEyTl2aNY
CABLES:
**Q: **Why is it recommended to use a 6ft(2m) or shorter straight cable with the 60HE? / Where can I find a coiled cable that works with the 60HE?
**A: **While almost any decently made USB 2.0 cable will work with the 60HE it's important to understand that the longer the cable, the higher the resistance. In order for the 60HE to sustain error free faster scan rates (Tachyon enabled) and power the keyboard LED's at their brightest setting, you need to ensure that you are using a quality cable with low resistance. If your cable is too long (this includes coiled cables that when uncoiled are typically much longer than 6ft) or made with inferior components, you may experience issues with Tachyon enabled and LED brightness set to maximum. You CAN use a coiled cable with the 60HE but you may need to turn Tachyon off or lower the brightness level of your LED's to 70% or lower.
For guaranteed compatibility you can always grab this - https://wooting.io/product/detachable-cable
STABILIZERS:
Q. Do I need to replace or modify the stabilizers and which stabilizers should I buy?
A. The stock stabilizers are great! Most people find them comparable to Durock brand stabilizers in both quality and feel. While the stabilizers do come lubed from the factory, lubing them yourself is a great way to get them feeling and sounding even better. Common mods aimed at fixing very noisy or rattling stabilizers bars (e.g. Holee Mod, Bandaid Mod or Stabilizer Clipping) are rarely ever needed on the Wooting keyboards and have been known to produce undesirable results in some cases. If you still have the urge to replace your stabilizers, be sure to select quality plate-mount stabilizers for the 60HE (screw-in and clip-in stabilizers are only supported on the 60HE+ module). Additionally, be sure your new stabs include a 6.25u size spacebar wire and are for 1.6mm thick PCB's.
For understanding how to properly lube and tube your stabilizers I high recommend this video from alexotos - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxHb6CJc9V8
SWITCHES:
**Q: **I saw someone on YouTube mention that I should turn my switches around to avoid interference with my keycaps because they are north-facing switches by default. Why do I need to do that and what’s the process?
**A: **The majority of today’s keycaps do not exhibit interference with the Lekker switches used in the Wooting keyboards. The original issue had less to do with keycap profiles and more to do with older mechanical switch housing designs. These issues have been resolved in almost all modern switch housings including the Lekker switches. However, there have been a few users who reported an issue with random newer GMK sets. If you still want to swap your switches to south-facing, it’s simply a matter of removing the switch, turning it around and reinserting it. That’s it! If you want to learn more, please watch this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAppmiG484k
Q. Do I need to film my switches and which films do I need to buy?
A. Films are primarily used to fill the gap between the top and bottom switch housing and reduce "housing wobble" but the Lekker switches typically have very tight housings and most users do not experience an issue with wobble. There are currently no confirmed films designed for the Lekker’s and while some users have been able to cut and modify films to fit the Lekker switches, the results have been mixed. The most common issue with currently available films is that they do not fit correctly around the Lekkers larger slider rails. This results in the films becoming “bowed” or “warped” and increases the potential for poor film installation.
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/984799440072220692/1104859195754422302/20230507_135515.jpg
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/984799440072220692/1104859196014477332/20230507_135529.jpg
KEYCAPS:
Q: Where can I find keycaps for my Wooting keyboard? / What keycaps does Wooting support?
A: The stock 60HE keycaps are OEM profile but almost any profile keycap will work! Changing your keycaps can have a tremendous impact on the sound of your keyboard depending on the keycap material, thickness and profile. It's important to make sure you select keycaps that support the layout of your keyboard and include a 6.25u spacebar. You can read more about keycap materials here - https://next.wooting.io/post/abs-vs-pbt-what-are-the-best-keycaps
Wooting also has awesome keycaps available - https://wooting.io/our-products?category=Keycaps
**Q: **What are the stock keycap sizes on the wooting 60HE?
A: See attached images!
ISO (Top Image) - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/552492095412240395/1106654081495355412/iso-keycap-sizes-wooting60he.png
ANSI (Bottom Image) - https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/552492095412240395/1106654081726033980/ansi-keycap-sizes-wooting60he.png
PLATES:
Q: Are there any aftermarket plates available or can I make my own plate?
**A: **There are currently no ready-made aftermarket plates available for the 60HE. However, Wooting has provided the CAD files needed to make one yourself or have one cut by a 3rd party. You can find those files at the following link - https://github.com/WootingKb/wooting-design
Bonus: If you are planning to make a plate yourself, it's advised that you use a stiff material or ensure you have stand-offs between the plate and PCB to avoid the plate flexing and causing erroneous inputs. Ensuring the proper distance between the plate and PCB is critical for error free operation. Please refer to this chart for the stiffness ratings of common plate materials:
Wooting has released a PC (Polycarbonate) plate that's available separately - https://wooting.io/product/60he-pc-switch-plate
For those of you in NA, Hype Keyboards makes aftermarket plates for the Wooting 60HE and other cases that can accommodate the 60 HE with custom plates. Check them out here - https://hypekeyboards.ca/ (Thockfather approved)
POPULAR MODS:
**Q: **What mods are recommended for the 60HE and which ones should I do?
A: While there are dozens of possible ways to modify your keyboard, some are simpler than others and many have a greater effect on the feel or sound than others. Before you start modifying your keyboard it's important to ask yourself "What am I hoping to accomplish with this mod, and will it provide the fix or change I am looking for?". It’s also advised to try doing mods one at a time. While these mods are considered “safe” there ARE times when a mod can have a negative impact and cause input errors. Taking these mods one at a time allows you to test before and after each mod so that you can easily determine if something goes awry and what caused it.
LUBING - The most common, and one of the easiest mods to do, is to lube your keyboard. It's a relatively simple process that, while it does take some time, provides some of the greatest benefits. Lubing your keyboard switches and stabilizers will result in it feeling smoother, sounding better, and making the typing experience more enjoyable. For additional information on how to lube your keyboard please watch the following video - https://youtu.be/WN_-GYLTfpY
TAPE MOD / TEMPEST MOD - The idea behind this mod is that applying tape to the bottom of your PCB will make the keyboard sound less muted and more “poppy”. This is a very simple mod and can be done with any quality painters/masking tape. Most users have reported that this mod does nothing for the sound of the Wooting 60HE and Wooting tried the mod themselves with similar results. You can find that video here - https://youtu.be/6poF-Z0ajhE
**BURGER MOUNT **– This mod is aimed at reducing the sound differences occasionally heard at the mounting points on tray mounted keyboards. This is more prominent with aluminum cases as the frequency changes at the mounting points can be amplified in a metal case. This a simple mod that only requires some 1mmx4mm rubber/silicone o-rings and some slightly longer mounting screws (M2*5-6). The goal is to try and isolate the PCB from the case by placing o-rings on the mounting screws between the PCB and the stand-offs (optionally, you can place a second o-ring between the screw head and the PCB). You can find the Wooting results from burger mounting in this video - https://youtu.be/tlPX6gYSxyU
DAMPENING / FOAM - The stock case foam used in Wooting keyboards is fantastic, but you can fine tune the sound by choosing a different type of foam or even using a different material. Some of the more common choices are fire-resistant polyfill, silicone and closed cell foam. It’s important to remember that regardless of the material you use, you want to ensure that you keep the material far enough below the case stand-offs to avoid having the PCB pushing against the material when the PCB is installed. If the dampening material pushes against the PCB and causes flexing or warping, you will get input errors when typing. Also, the Wooting PCB does generate heat and giving it a bit of room to breathe is ideal. If you want to see Wootings results of using silicone as the dampening material, you can find that video here - https://youtu.be/n6k2mpfPSxs
If you are chasing a particular sound and are interested in understanding how different foam thicknesses and densities can affect the sound of the keyboard and why some foams create a more “clacky” sound and others a more “thocky” sound, check out this video from KeyBored (at around the 6:40 mark) - https://youtu.be/_N8k0u75eLQ
GUMMY O-RING MOUNT - While the 60HE isn't specifically designed for gummy o-ring mounting, several users have reported successfully "friction fit" mounting their 60HE using a gummy o-ring. Confirmed sizes that work are Graveshift Medium 30a-50a o-rings and Bakeneko60 o-rings.
Note - Gummy mounting will likely not work with the 60HE Module due to the screw-in stabilizers
SWITCH TAPE MOD - Not to be confused with the Tempest / Tape Mod listed above. This mod aims to reduce or eliminate potential chatter between the top housing and stem and may reduce stem wobble for some users. You can learn more about this mod here thanks to community member @glad seal - #1173784544529363034 message
STRAP - To help those who have asked about commissioning or making their own strap, here are the dimensions:
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/552492095412240395/1113526872035295283/strap_dimensions.png
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Can you buy the 60HE module by itself? - YES!
Can you buy the Alumaze60 by itself? - YES!
What's included with the 60HE Module? - 60HE Module will include the PCB, PC plate, 2 dampening materials (silicone pad and poron foam), screw-in stabilizers, small silicone sticker sheet (to stick on the backside of the PCB at the screw holes), and USB A to C cable.
What's included with the Alumaze60? - Alumaze60 will include the case, strap insert, strap, 2 sets of feet, screws and 2 removeable stand-offs.
What are the typing angles of the Alumaze60 with the different feet options? - 4° and 7.5°
Is the Alumaze60 available in multiple colors? - YES! - Currently available Just Black, Concrete Gray, Ocean Blue and Lavender Purple
Is the Alumaze60 strap insert available in other colors? - NO (Not at launch)
Is the 60HE Module compatible with the 60HEv1 plastic case? - YES!
What is the color of the strap? - Default strap is Black & White (other colors will be announced in the future)
Does the 60HE Module include switches or keycaps? - NO (You can add a 70 pack of L45 or L60 switches at time of purchase).
What are the differences between the 60HEv1 and the 60HE Module? - The 60HEv1 has a steel plate and plate mounted stabilizers and the 60HE Module has a PC plate and screw-in stabilizers. Additionally, the 60HE Module will come with some additional plate dampening options.
Will the PC plate included with the 60HE Module work with the 60HEv1? - YES & NO (Yes for 60HEv1 ANSI but no for 60HEv1 ISO)
Will there be a discount for ordering the 60HE Module and Alumaze60 Case at the same time? - YES! (Discount announced at launch)
Will there be a discount for verified 60HEv1 owners who just want to buy the Alumaze60 or 60HE Module? - YES! (Discount announced at launch)
Will the Alumaze case support PCB's other than Wooting? - YES! It will support any GH60/DZ60/Pok3r style PCB
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Can I buy the PC plate as a stand alone item if I just want to change the plate on my 60HEv1 - YES! (Only for ANSI users at launch)
How do I install/swap the PC Plate on my Wooting 60HE? - Please refer to this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkosHUBUrdI
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3rd Party Switch Compatibility
While Wooting HE keyboards may be compatible with some third party HE switches, it is recommended that you use official Lekker switches from Wooting to ensure optimal performance. If you still wish to use third party switches, please understand that Wooting cannot ensure compatibility and not all HE switches are created equal.
Please see the chart below currently available 3rd party switches:
Gateron Magnetic Jade Switches (KS-20T) – Jades are a long pole switch, which means that their total travel distance is 3.5mm compared to the Lekkers travel distance of 4.0mm. It is advised that you use the latest firmware (version v4.6.19 or later). Also note that using a long pole switch such as the Jades, may result in your spacebar not seating properly on the stabilizer stems causing the far end of your space bar to pop off when you are pushing down fully on the opposite end. If you are not pressing the spacebar on the extreme ends with higher-than-average force, then you will likely not experience any issues. If you are having an issue, there are 2 ways to tackle the problem:
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Replace your stabilizer with a long pole stabilizer to match your long pole switch. While this will solve the above issue, it may impact your ability to use standard (non-long pole) switches in the future without having to change your stabilizers again.
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You can place a small o-ring on the stabilizer stems (see picture below). This will restrict how far down the spacebar can be pressed down on the ends, preventing the opposite end from popping off.
These work great - https://divinikey.com/products/geon-stem-spacer
Or print your own - https://grabcad.com/library/north-facing-washer-for-cherry-mx-switches-1
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NOTE: There are reported inconsistencies with some stabilizer models (mainly Staebies and TX AP Screw-In / Clip-In) with the 60HE+. If you wish to use these particular stabilizer products, please be advised that they may not fit perfectly or in some cases not fit all.
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With the introduction of new HE switches on a regular basis, the methodology for how you properly test for compatibility and range should be as follows.
- Unplug the keyboard and swap the switch
- Initial Calibration - Plug the keyboard in and wait 5 seconds to complete power on calibration (this is an initial reading of all switches)
- Deep Calibration - This calibration occurs over time (Roughly 30-60 seconds with Tachyon mode enabled or roughly 2-5 minutes for non-tachyon depending on the model of your keyboard)
- End of Press Calibration - The easiest way to calibrate the end of press is to press many times on the side of the key. You can't press too slowly and you need to give it a solid bottom out. Try to keep the presses consistent and steady (.5 seconds to full press and .5 seconds to full release). Completing 20-30 presses should be sufficient to fully calibrate.
The next version of Wootility will eventually include a switch selector that will help the board better pre-calibrate for the selected switch type.
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Latest Switch Compatibility List (Note that Black Knights are listed as 3.6mm travel distance but have been measured at 4.1mm)
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In an effort to reduce the incoming surge of questions regarding the stabilizer stem replacements that are included with the Gateron Jade switches when purchased directly through Wooting (see photo below), I wanted to quickly explain what they are, why you might need them, how do you install them, and which stabilizers they are compatible with.
What are they? - With popularity of long pole HE switches such as the Gateron Jade's (and all variants), GEON Raptor RAW, Neo Lavenders, etc (or any HE switch with greatly reduced travel), Wooting has included Gateron's reduced travel stabilizer stems with all Gateron Jade switch packs purchased through the official Wooting store. These are the same stems you would get if you purchased the Gateron V2 Black/Silver long pole stabilizers separately.
Do you need them? - The short answer is "it depends". The long answer is that using a long pole switch such as the Gateron Jades, may result in your spacebar not seating properly on the stabilizer stems causing the far end of your space bar to pop off when you are pushing down fully on the opposite end. If you are not pressing the spacebar on the extreme ends with higher-than-average force, then you will likely not experience any issues. Additionally, this does not affect all keycap brands equally. Higher quality keycaps with better tolerances/tighter stems often do not experience any issues, even when pressed with force on the edges of the keycap.
How do you install them? - Installation is easy and only takes a few minutes. You simply remove your current stabilizers from the keyboard, disconnect the stabilizer wire, and push the stabilizer stem out of the stabilizer housing (it will likely fall out on it's own). Be sure to note the orientation of the stabilizer stem when you remove it, so that you can insert the replacement stem the same way (the stems can be inserted incorrectly and will seem to fit but your stabilizer will not operate properly). The replacement stems do not come pre-lubed so it's advise to lightly lube them before swapping them. For tips on how to properly lube stabilizers, this is a great video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxHb6CJc9V8
Which stabilizers are compatible with the Gateron replacement stems? - At this time, we have only confirmed compatibility with the Wooting stock stabilizers (both plate mount and screw-in / PCB mount) and Gateron branded stabilizers, but they will likely work with a large number of stabilizers currently on the market. Stay tuned as we will be testing the replacement stems with other stabilizers and updating the compatibility list.
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New FAQ Entry by @still inlet
Which Plate Material is Right For You?
Changing your keyboard plate could make a big impact on your typing experience. This guide simplifies the process, focusing on the most popular materials: Steel, Aluminum, Brass, Carbon Fiber, Polypropylene (PP), Polyoxymethylene (POM), Polycarbonate (PC), and Flame Retardant-4 (FR4).
Assessing Material Properties:
Each material offers unique characteristics. Steel was the stock plate material on the 2HE & 60HE and offered the firmest typing experience, but not the greatest sound experience for most users. Aluminum, known for its rigidity and moderate sound profile, is a versatile choice. Brass, heavier and with a more pronounced sound, also provides a very stiff typing feel. Metal plates may provide a hint of resonance (brass even more so) and is worth keeping in mind if you are sensitive to that. Carbon Fiber stands out for its lightweight and high-pitched sound profile, ideal for a stiffer typing experience without the metallic resonance. PP and POM offer flexibility and a unique and poppy sound signature, while PC provides a softer typing feel with a slight amount of flex and tends to be one of the deeper sounding plate materials. FR4, same as PCB material, offers a balanced typing experience with good sound absorption.
Considering Personal Preference and Use Case:
Your choice should align with your typing habits and aesthetic preferences. For gaming, materials like Steel, Aluminum or Carbon Fiber are great for their stability and responsiveness. For office use, PC or FR4 can be ideal due to their subtle sound profiles. Aesthetically, materials like Brass and Carbon Fiber stand out for their distinct looks (although not visible while keycaps are mounted).
Actionable Tips:
Match the material with your primary use: Aluminum or Carbon Fiber for stiffer typing experiences, PC, POM, PP or FR4 for softer typing experiences. Consider the sound and feel: Brass for a pronounced and resonant sound signature, PP or POM for a unique sound (poppy) and feel. Think about the weight and aesthetics: Brass for heft and luxuriousness, Carbon Fiber for a modern look that may match your vehicle. Don't overlook the flex: PP and PC for slightly more flexible builds, Aluminum for less. Test if possible: Try different materials at local meetups to experience them firsthand. Our list for plate materials:
From most flexible to stiffest:
• Rank 1: Polypropylene (PP)
• Rank 2: Polycarbonate (PC)
• Rank 3: Polyoxymethylene (POM)
• Rank 4: Flame Retardant-4 (FR4)
• Rank 5: Aluminum (Alu)
• Rank 6: Brass
• Rank 7: Carbon Fiber (CF)
• Rank 8: Steel
Please note there are more plates than what are shown above. These are just some of the common plate materials and as always, with everything in this hobby, things like sound and feel are personal preference and the information above is subjective so YMMV.
For more information regarding how plate materials can affect sound, I highly suggest checking out this video from Scott King of Keybored - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmljIhkHOlI
still inlet
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Vendor List for all things Keyboard related, includes stores from all over the globe, so you can find keyboard accessories based on your location.
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Huge thanks to community member @wintry cape for creating a quick and easy website to see if the switches you're looking at are compatible with your Wooting keyboard or if you just want some switch recommendations. Go check it out!
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Sound Tests (Consolidated)
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Updated v2 faq with minor tweaks regarding owlab case:
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ps: Lekker Tikken will be available to purchase October 16th.
Soundtest: https://link.wooting.io/tikken
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Confused about case compatibility for your 60he v1/60he v2/80he? Here's a database to check compatibility between cases/models (wip - i'm adding more cases over time, but the 60he section is more to highlight incompatible cases and show which wooting cases are compatible with which kits): https://library.wooting.io/248eb391798480d7a016e27c591cf94f?v=248eb391798481df8b1f000c3aa064f5
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What's new between 60he+ and 60he v2:
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What aftermarket stabilizers are compatible with my wooting keyboard? What's the best pick?
ps - stock stabilizers are great if re-lubed properly so don't feel you need to buy aftermarket stabilizers to get the best experience
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Not sure whether to buy the module or prebuilt 60HE V2 for your upcoming build? Here's what's included with each option.
ps - Friction fit is generally the preferred mount and you only need to tray mount in exceptions where friction fit will not fit (eg. Geon Leggera case). If you intend to case swap, it's highly recommended to check compatibility and buy the module if tray mounting is required.
