#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 184 of 1
If so then whats the point of having jades 😂
but ill just have to do a few different franken switches and then see what feels best
the better housing
No like cus in the Jades, both top housing and stem increased in size comparing to lekkers
so you can't mix and match housings/stem with jades?
No you can but theres no point
tbh i did a stem swap between L60 and Jade and didn't notice much difference in either, i think it's mostly the housing
(though it wasn't extensive testing or anything)
Yeah spring swapping would be the way to go with the jades depending on your preference
I would too, i usually like my springs at like 60-70 grams
I prob favor in 65 but 60 is still 100% solid for me
Part of the reason I got 70g springs is because they are also 18mm, i know with non he switches it's usually the best feeling for me, so wil lhave to see if it still feels best with jades or other he switches
but since it's Ali Express am gonna be waiting forever lmao
oh not ali 😭
you got a link
i wanna take a look
18mm 70g damn
You like that heavier typing experience
same here!
I use that for my spacebar only on my Mx stuff
I wouldnt mind 70g for gaming at all tbh
I have a big/heavy hand.
Seems somewhat legit
i love gareron switches
Its cheap enough that I have no expectations
but ive seen other people on this discord recommend it
Can you put the L45s in the 2HE?
same switch compatibility yes
Thanks for the info
where is this from? haha
It should, iirc the 45s are the same switch, just different colored stem and different springs
correct
did yall install the flat o-ring stickers that wooting provided with the module?
is it for the standoffs?
Anyone know good keycaps?
whats your budget?
Introducing GMK Symbiote, an unknown life-form that possesses the ability to combine with mechanical objects, metamorphosized into a new type of hybrid organism. What started as a symbiotic relationship, turned into complete absorption of the host machine. A retrofuturistic sci-fi-themed mechanical keyboard keyset with
Thats sexy i wont lie
Thx
X-Ray is a keycap set that features a clear-on-white, low-contrast design, paying tribute to transparent tech peripherals. Inspired by these devices, these translucent keycaps highlight the internal structures and construction properties that define them. From certain perspectives, these keycaps almost appear blank. Ye
these are interesting
Out of stock
"I designed this set for one of the biggest inspiration of my life, my Chinese mother. The rabbit (兔子) represents the Chinese zodiac sign which she and I were both born under, it is one of the signs commonly associated with the Mid-Autumn Festival. With that in mind I decided to design the set around this theme using m
So cute
And I should buy l45 switch?
i love Tuzi so much but all my boards are blue haha
if you like the lighter spring then go for it
Is it difficult to swap?
no its not difficult
but its less work if you get the switch with springs you like out of the box
Too expensive shipping fee TT
yo new lekker "pros" with the l45 spring yesssss
so curious what that new new spring will be
WHERE? IS THERE INFO?
Sounds like a perfect excuse to buy lavender or ewhite board
The bug real. I keep saying one more purchase ....
Hi guys, do you guys know where can I buy the silicone back feet for the Alumaze60? I lost the higher feet.
I imagine they keep some spares on hand for situations like this, id shoot them a message and see if you can buy some.
Thank you very much
Not after Geon in particular, after Latenpow (the manufacturer of Geon’s HE switches). The Latenpow White and Raptor HE switches are a blatant copy of Gateron’s KS-20 switches but their patent is as empty as can be, nothing they did was new so I hope they’ll be unsuccessful. It’s just a sorry ass attempt on a monopoly.
Latenpow
The Omni-Point/KS-20/Lekker switch, yes.
Every KS-20 switch apart from the 20Us use the same stem and top housing.
You can, however, it’d be solely for aesthetic purpose.
TUT Game 1989 full base set on sale in korea for $38 btw if any other koreanites happen to be here
I thought the gateron patent thing was just about jades
also
geon made more expensive mistakes in the past already
Not as far as I read into their claim, I could’ve misread though.
the F2 essentially had a million dollar production error
ty for the details
Hi! Does anyone has a secret seller who sells (duh) french MX AZERTY PBT keycaps (and are in stock)? This thing is rare as fuck, in France custom keeb and keycaps sets are not popular at all so I struggle a bit
I see I see
Gateron would rather sue than make good switches 
Because this time around they got lucky and aren't stealing from another manufacturer this time (cherry)
who are they suing?
latenpow?
trying to from what was said above yeah
where'd you see this?
tenturo do u know why gateron has 2 sites? like there is one that is .co and the other one being .com
yeah not sure
well I know that .co is usually for certain countries, but I'm not sure why gateron has it when .com covers everything else
weird right, i looking to buy the ks-20u's and they are only available on the .com website
guess the .com is all good then?
wonders, thanks alot
awsome, thanks for the input!
It was posted on Frontier. I don’t think they are suing anyone yet but that document was about them having or trying to patent the KS-20 switch.
That’s how I understood it.
yeah but I havent seen them actually go after anyone
just that they have a patent
and one of hte patents people were posting was several years old anyways
so not really news
The post on Frontier wasn’t old. So I’m not sure why it would be posted recently.
Could be news now because Gateron believes manufactures are infringing on their patent now.
LTP cough cough.
😄
Oh the pot calling the kettle black 
Exactly. 🤣
Okay, thank you
If you pick me up a set I've got a friend heading to Korea in 3 weeks and he could grab it.
dam I would but I have to use a special bank account to shop online in korea and it's empty right now. Can't load it up until tomorrow and I think sale ends tonight
oh it ended already rip. Guess it ended just shortly after I posted that
No worries!
Hi, I hope this is the right place to ask! My order arrives in two weeks and I just wanted to know how important it is if you lube the keys before getting started. I didn't even know it was a thing until I placed the order! Tia
The switches come factory lubed and if they sound/feel good to you when you get the board then you don't have to worry about it at all.
Yes
I have jades in the tofu redux with the brass bar and the steel switch plate because I bought a prebuild 60he and it sounds kinda hollow should I buy a pc switch plate
Try some different dampening materials first, try removing the foam betwene PCB and plate, work with what you have before you spend money
should I try the wooting foam with the tofu foam
Ty
I couldn’t get both to fit YMMV
what will that do for the sound
which one are you using
rn i have pc switch plate with silicone in middle of pcb and plate, and silicone under the pcb, no hollows, sounds good
today i received magnetic jade and keebtape, i think will sound very good overall
Depends on the material you use and tweaks you make. Check the https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1103459740186595399 for ideas and feel free to ask questions
any 3rd party cases close to the look of the stock 60he case?
there's wooting's own alumaze, other than that not really
Has there been any mention of a gasket mounted 60% or 65% from Wooting? Would this ever become a thing or is it currently only exclusive to the 80HE?
Wilba tech salvation is on sale for 180$ which is a steal compared to what it normally is. It has these leaf springs that make it bounce when typing. Currently using it right now
Yeah the NK sale is really good. I picked up 3 sets of their PBT caps for $99. Screaming deal. The GMK sale is also banging but there wasn't 3 sets I needed as I have most of the ones I want except for Olive.
Unless youre referring to another vendor
I’ve been eying those deals as well 👀
You got it, I was referring to Novel Keys
I wanted that Cherry Milkshake PBT Set but they only have the Weirdo Bases left
I have milkshake and its a sweet set (no pun intended)
I know I'm sad
I also want a nice BoG set and man are those hard to find
The ones Cannonkeys and KBD did are all sold out from last year
I might have an extra BoG set I can sell you Cam. I think I have 2 sets from CK
I picked up the last 3 PBT sets I didn't have that I have any interest in
Wow lol
This is pretty similar to what I was gonna get
I'm not sold on the Sage yet but its hard to choose
Sage is a solid choice
trying to go for a frutiger aero wooting
Sweet, thank you
Baldr60, Klippe PC, KBDFans 5 Degree Acrylic if you can find them
Baldr60 looks sick, thank u
where ?
wish nk would restock their godamn deskmats
Which one?
cutting mat
but i really dont think they are going to restock it
limited drop?
no clue tbh
another site has a sim design so i can go for this one
Ahh gotcha. If it was a GMK mat I was going to say I might have it
man i remember my first gmk mat
i got a gmk bento that i waited for
and 2 weeks into it i dropped something sharp on it
peirced it
I have the original bento set along with the novelties and chopsticks kits (spacebars) in the old plastic trays they used.
If it came in the white cardboard then its r2
iirc i bought it around 2020-2021
i think
sadly i throw out all packaging for smaller things
only boxes ive kept are for my pc parts lmao
still sad i missed the gmk sale on nk, they restocked gmk striker for 99$
i swear after taeha built that fornite streamers keyboard with strikers everyone was rocking em
and it just felt overused at that point
Oh then it was r1. Nice
Yea sadly its ruined 
Anyone try durock stabs? i have spares but i feel it aint going to be worth swapping them out for the stock stabs
Theyre basically the same as the stock ones
They’re only good if you make them good. 😉
I have a freebird60 case
it's 5 degrees
It's not lower than the Alumaze
How low is the alumaze? I thought it was 7.5
I completely forgot about the other set of feet lol
me trying to not to do something different with my wooting every other week
lol
now that it's out of the case surely I have to change something

Damn you last every other week?
I'm up in this bi every other day lmao
the cycle of wooting is too modify it every week and the sound never improves or get better till you finally give up
I consider myself lucky because I think the stock prebuilt plastic wooting sounds best
I just had the urge
I pop my wooting in the stock case when I gotta bring it around
If you have never dabbled into the custom side of mechanical keyboards then 60he and such sounds amazing against gamer keyboards
but ify ou have experience like me and others 60he just never comes close
Gonna look after it
yea it annoys me
I've been spoiled too much in the past
best sounding 60he you can do right now is putting it in a frog mini if you don't mind the investment
I tried pretty much every good case you can get it for it and was the best
My 60he is basically my first real keyboard.
same
today ima try tape modding the jades
I've tried a bunch of cases, switches, keycaps etc and honestly I find the stock configuration sounds best. I haven't tried other keyboards in person, but from a lot of videos I see, I dont like how most of them sound. With the wooting I like that it is quiet and low pitched.
What about 3rd party plastic cases 😄 shouldn’t plastic sound a bit „better?
ima try getting rid of this annoying ass sound when the stem hits the housing
i felt this haha
lmk how this goes because i hate that sound
the best config i got so far is no pcb foam, stock wooting foam, and the included silicon stickers on the tofu 60 standoffs
i also used wheel weights instead of the brass weight and secured it with a layer of masking tape
yea I'm about to hand lube them and see what we are working with
don't forget the springs
Have fun (you wont) 
do you guys have tips to lube stabs? i dont feel like unscrewing them from the module atm but they could use some work
is it an issue to just lube them while theyre in?
You can but it's not the best. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxHb6CJc9V8&t=596s
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
looks really easy and straightforward, i dont have a syringe but ig i can try with the brush, tyvm
ngl i just injected 205g0 into the stab stems and it worked out great
like shown on the vid?
exactly
out of the box the stabs werent bad at all but injecting the extra 205g0 inside the stem made them perfect
super good to hear, i'll give it a shot ty
Don't use them.
Why are so many of you afraid of shining so bad?
Then you can't afford those keycaps.
They are meant to be used, you are paying to use them.
Im dead
Just got more Krytox from my carpool :DDDD
Anyone have any idea on how to transfer krytox from one jar to another
Use your tongue

Any other options in mind?
If no then I enable you
Basically I wanna try every HE swtich.
Which ones do you have so far
or planning to buy
Jades Lekkers and Raptors
Yep pull the trigger then
goated, ty
well, gateron blocked that notion.
keeps saying "Please enter a valid phone number." no matter what I put
nvm it worked
K just transferred the lube :D
With your tongue?
Ye
Has there been any mention of a gasket mounted 60% or 65% from Wooting? Would this ever become a thing or is it currently only exclusive to the 80HE?
Hey Kosmos! Good to see you're still around! I also would like to know, but totally get it since the 60he is a finished product and this requires going back to the drawing board. Good opportunity to design your own 😉
As of right now, I doubt it, would need a hardware redesign, but who knows in the future, couple years from now
Ok gotcha. I was planning to potentially purchase another salvation and wanting to make sure I’m not accidentally buying something to get outdated too quickly. This Novel keys deal is too good to pass on
A gasket mounted 60HE would require a new silicone pad and case. So it isn’t impossible but I’m not sure if we’ll ever see it.
Hmm got it. As much as I love the salvation, I do strongly believe gasket mount will always be better
That’s why I’m hesitant on getting another. If a new gasket mount releases for a 60% I’ll just have to buy it again. Trying to avoid this in the future if possible
To my (limited) knowledge, there hasn't been any public information released about redesigning the 60HE in a gasket mounted version but with the popularity of 8K polling/scanning being requested for the 60HE, I'd be willing to speculate that any redesign of the 60HE to support 8K, would also come with a design refresh to support different mounting options.
Yeah I can see that happening as well. Wooting definitely makes constant updates/changes. It’s awesome no doubt but I wanna make sure I’m not getting something that’ll quickly get dated with short time
I would pay all the monies for redesigned 60he with gasket likke 80he
heck they could just drop plate foam like the 80 he + a case
Yeah same
and I would buy that
That’s if they come up with something clever to fit the bigger MCU on the 60HE’s PCB. I hope they do.
I don't think a lack of creativity/clever design is something Wooting is lacking 🙂
Yeah, that would seem the most likely. Could be a neat product.
yeah definitely very possible for them to do!
lots of the current owners would immediately buy it
Agreed, that’s what makes wooting stand out from the other companies. Love it, adapting and adjusting. Also the customers feedback is strongly considered
Should’ve seen the silicone switch pad case.
I still hope they make that a product.
Yo?
Got an image or info on that?
Something similar has been done before (only once to my knowledge) but I think Wooting's implementation of it will be significantly better.
Wait what are they using now?
I mean, using the plate dampening material as a gasket has been done before in the keyboard hobby, but it wasn't a great implementation.
oh ok
The KBD67 Lite used a similar silicone gasket mounting system back in 2020, but the implementation sucked.
Yes
double u
https://omnitype.com/products/pbtfans-x-ray?_pos=1&_psq=x-ray&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=43782080463017
Hey guys, do you think this set of keycaps would go best with the raw or white zinc alloy case?
X-Ray is a keycap set that features a clear-on-white, low-contrast design, paying tribute to transparent tech peripherals. Inspired by these devices, these translucent keycaps highlight the internal structures and construction properties that define them. From certain perspectives, these keycaps almost appear blank. Ye
zinc for the contrast
I feel like 70% of the people with white zinc cases are gonna have that set
Cause that’s all I see people post lol
Yes they are
Lekkers ARE KS-20
frost
First time assembling my own keyboard(60HE+), I lubed everything and put them together, I feel like everyother key sounds okay ish to me(I was afraid of over lubing so applied only a thin layer of lube), but the space bar sounds a bit weird to me, I am not sure it is because that I never heard of lubed metal cased keyboards before or I did something wrong like applying too little/much lube?
sorry for the bad sound quality, using my phone, don't have a desk mic
sounds like a keyboard to me
if you have plate mount stabs you could try the band aid mod under the stabs
like a piece of band aid on the pcb
The Band-Aid mod is among the easiest mods around there and requires the least number of tools.
This mod should eliminate high-pitched sounds from the stabilizers hitting the PCB, making the sound a bit softer. Let's see how it performs in this video!
➤ Follow our socials!
🧑🤝🧑 Discord https://wooting.io/discord
🐤 Twitter https://www.twitter.c...
kk will give it a try later
Any idea on whats the bottom out force for the jade switches? I cant seem to find it… are they heavier than the L45s overall?
30g - 50g, actuation is the same bottom out is a bit heavier
Hmmm
Hello, what is the name of that mod ? Is there any guide video you know of that you can share with me to try this mod?
switch tape mod
no there is no video as its not common outside oh the HE swicthes
Nice thanks you!
Weird I just tuned them
mine has a weight too
if it doesnt bother you its fine
Yea just the recording sounds so different from irl

sounds more hollow
im assuming u have tofu redux?
You gotta fill in the hole or else it'll sound empty
Ig thats one part of it that produces the sound
my thought was wood at first but then u said u had weights in it
Wood looks good but difficult to make it sound good
and if ur typing on the desk just bare, i think a deskmat would help unless u already are using it
It was the workdesk where I was modding it
This should sound much better
I've just gotten used to it
Ow
My ears are bleeding from the sharpness
Thats better
Yea don't know why my iPad sounds so goofy

What you do to your keeb
No like what mods
Oh just gummy o-ring mount and wire balance for pcb
Geon raptors frankstein for switches
And wood case
Hmm
Its odd how it sounds really sharp than usual
any case foam?
Neoprene
any plate foam? or none
Default
Oh yea its the pc plate not metal
yep im aware :^
does it sound somewhat similar to this recording (prob most likely not and i hope not)
mic did do it a bit dirty 😂
Close enough
The gain is a bit high since my mic is normally further away
Hows neoprene vs wootings?
So it might be clipping
Neoprene was quiter
I use to have neoprene but i ran out of extra for my wooting board
Yeah I think I’ll try plate foam next time I take it out
Just bought a 60he+ module with Jade switches. I found that on AliExpress, Gateron is selling long-pole Silver stabilizers. Are they good, or could you guys link me to a couple of good alternatives?
These are the ones that I found and seem to be made specifically for Jade switches. If there is an alternative, I'd be happy to check it out.
theres TX AP long poles but idk if they fit
See, that is where my confusion comes from because not every seller specifies if they are for 1.2mm or 1.6mm PCBs, if they are screw-in or PCB-mounted.
screw in is a pcb mount no?
See i don't know since this is my first custom KB. Is searching for "TX AP Long Pole".
I did a lot of research, but it's still kind of hard to know if I'm buying the right thing.
you generally want to have long pole stabs for the jades
but yeah there has been reports that tx and staebies (the best go to stabs) to not fit properly
Hmm, then the other option is either to use the stock ones or buy the Gateron ones and see how they fit.
Thanks for the great information. What I’ll do is see if the stock ones bother me, and if they do, I’ll try the Gateron Silver stabilizers and see how that works.
If I get the silver stabs, I'll provide an update if they have any compatibility problems and how they perform.
yeah just see how the stocks are
Hey, I’m looking for keycaps for my 80HE, and I’ve found a set but on the website it’s written "The keycap base is opaque and is not intended to be used with per key rgb shine through lighting." What would happen if I still put them on a 80HE?
im guessing its just a disclaimer its not shine through
Yeah, there way of saying they’re not backlit/shrine-through
here you can see shine-through and non shine-through in 1 image. the white keycaps arent shine-through and the black ones are
WHat would happen if I still used them tho, because I really like them but finding a keycap set in french is hard, and finding one that is not XDA and shine through is almost impossible
you still get per key rgb its just that the text on the keycaps is a solid color of the plastic and wont be the color of the rgb below it
rgb will only shine below and around the keycaps
like this
It doesn't really matter for me if it doesn't shine through but if I can't see the rbg on the sides then it sucks
It’d just look like that image he posted
And the keycap set I'd like to order is ABS but $85, idk if I'll still get that shine look after a while
You will
I think the keycaps are double shot ABS
it will
Embrace the shine
I'm on a laptop rn and I can see what the shine is all about and it sucks
I have a mech keyboard at home with PBT keycap and they haven't moved in a year + of usage
Shine looks better on customs
lol
PBT is good if you don’t want shine and want a deeper sound
Idk how shiny it would look on these tho
They seem kinda shiny already
transparent so i dont think it will be really visible
They're $85 and I don't really know what keycaps are worth but if they go bad after a while then it would really sucks
maybe cerakeys cant really shine more than they already are
jades?
yes
so i have a universal 60% pp plate that wasn't made with wooting in mind. Is it still possible to use that or no?
and if i get a 60% gummy o ring case would that work with the wooting pcb? using plate mount stabs ofc
what mods and foams did you you use?
its possible you would have to do custom standoffs
Is there a guide for that?
i have no idea the idea scares me
#1169726936805806171 message this person did a proper gummy oring mount
the original pcb cannot do a real gummy oring. as there are no cutouts in the pcb
you can take a tofu 60 and put a oring around the pcb
I thought something similar to badseed tech where the rubber o ring could just be slightly out would be good enough damn
yeah then yes you can do that
the only thing to watch out for is the stabs.
if you get the module you get screw in stabs
and it can interfere
i heard you can get a smaller oring to make it fit
if you get prebuilt you will have plate mount and those dont interfere with the oring
Alright yea
I guess the pp plate dream might be a rip though
If having to cut holes and shit is needed
if you want a good typing feel you can get the salvation
i think today is last day of discount
depends on your budget tho
i just ordered the white one
I have a January 60 that I gb'd over a year ago coming eventually
Just think of it as a polycarbonate bakaneko/unikorn
Which is why I was asking
But me now I care more about hall effect and its stuff than the whole custom keyboard thing so idk what imma do maybe just sell the thing if it can't work with wooting
Might as well start a collection
haha i'm not that into consumerism
i have an ikki68 and i also regret that thing
kind of, it works. just wasn't really worht the whole experience and such
such an expensive hobby
tofu redux with brass weight, handlubed jades, polyfill, 4 layers of tempest mod, fr4 plate, pe foam
This is my photo 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Hello I’m the owner of these and I actually sold it xD
Is that not Thocksons photo?
I'm unsure if I'm in the correct text channel to ask for help. I want to change the spacebar stabilizers to apply the Gummy O-ring mod. I currently have the 60HE+ Module. Is this the correct thing to buy?
PCB Size: 1.6T
Pole Size: Long Pole.
Here is the source I'm buying it from.
https://www.switchkeys.com.au/products/tx-ap-stabilizers-rev-4?_pos=1&_sid=21164f366&_ss=r&variant=45335697686821
https://ringerkeys.com/products/replacement-o-rings?variant=39866038190162
Revisions Rev. 2: Inserts were revised to fit more PCBs. Rev. 3: More colors + a new variant to fit 1.2T PCBs. 1.6T is the standard spec so most PCBs are 1.6T. Rev. 4: Named "AP" aka "Almost Perfect". Has multiple improvements in housing and stem to make the wire fit better as well as even less wobbling and noise. Int
Black O-ring restock for Moontower v1 and v2 and now Wooting 60. Red and white o-rings restocked OEM for Unikorn v1 and new v2! https://ringerkeys.com/discord for an invite and get the @Accessories role for a ping! These are replacement o-rings for popular 60% gummy worm mounted custom mechanical keyboards.I had a dif
Unless you want to use jades dont get long pole
Also read last line warning #🪛│modding_faq message
Sorry for asking, but what are jades? First-time modding a custom keyboard.
Gateron jades are switches. Long pole switches
Ok, thank you for the clarification. I should buy the standard pole since I will be using the Linear45 Lekken Switch.
Yeah standard
But there might be fitting issues on tx ap. Some dont have issues some do.
Kinda random
Hinweis: Wenn Sie die Option von YMDK verkauft und versendet wählen, wird dieser Artikel aus chinesischem Lager versandt. Die Versandzeit beträgt ca. 1-5 Tage. Die Lieferzeit beträgt ca. 18-35 Tage über Standardversand für Corona-Virus-Probleme. Expressversand ist 3-8 Tage, wenn es verfügbar ist....
That link tho..
Hinweis: Wenn Sie die Option von YMDK verkauft und versendet wählen, wird dieser Artikel aus chinesischem Lager versandt. Die Versandzeit beträgt ca. 1-5 Tage. Die Lieferzeit beträgt ca. 18-35 Tage über Standardversand für Corona-Virus-Probleme. Expressversand ist 3-8 Tage, wenn es verfügbar ist....
wopps
hmm is that a yes ?:D
The GH60 fits the wooting PCB , yes
Thank you very much
gotta love amazon tracking nonsense
Not this one
I recognized my fingers, and the background that came from an aftermarket French selling website 😂😂 I swapped to jades tho so I sold my tape modded lekkers and hand lubbed for 40€
Man for that amount of work you probably could have done like 70
I want this https://youtu.be/d9forDotXkI?si=RCJxTi5YtmydpOxU
I made this E-ink display for my computer desk setup as an Always On display to show me information such as the date, time, weather, HDMI settings, USB settings, and CPU/GPU/Memory temperature information.
OLD Version LilyGo T5-4.7 Inch E-paper (This product used in the video is no longer sold.)
https://www.lilygo.cc/en-ca/products/t5-4-7-inch-...
That's pretty nitfy
I need a new 3D printer but the one I'm eye balling is on backorder until like May/June.
i dont mind taking any benefits i just wanna get the amount i paid for the jades so i can swap switches for free
link pls
So I bought the lube set, and this one looks different from the molykote. But the seal keeps slipping and has no actual resistance to open. Anyone got the same product ? How do i seal this krytox bottle from wooting ?
Should be a rubber seal under the white lid
Two part lid style
The blue rubber thing that barely stays in “seals” it
But yeah it doesn’t really close very well lol
Hi there! This is the switch tape mod that I fooled around and found. Here's my video
Happy Friday everyone ❤️
I lost my key with the wooting strap on it 😢
tragic 😿
Cable finally arriving today
Only took like 6 weeks
Handmade + Randall had a death in the family
the rubbery part that actually seals the bottle actually seals very well when it's covered in lube, trapping air inside when you try to push it in
so try to put it in in such a way that the air can escape
Happy Friday!!!
I took a nap for the first time in forever!!!
sadly it was only 30 minutes
Its Cajn's
I have long luxious mama nails
my "naps" are like 3 hours long 💀
Isn’t a 30 minute nap where you nap for 8 hours instead and fuck your whole schedule up?
Mine are 5/6 hours long 💀
You guys have naps? 
i discovered it for the first time :D
a rare occurrence
Bro you take naps
That’s crazy
I wish
Singular
not plural
and its been forever since i had one

Chilling
does anyone know what's my best bet for the quietest switch for my 60he?
Your best bet is adding o-rings to the mx stem on the keycaps
jades are loud, but other than that, most HE switches sound pretty similar.
noise level wise, lubing will help.
I'm no pro though, just my 2 cents.
Can someone help me im not sure what to choose
(tx ap stabs for the 60he+)
TX APs are a gamble. Might work, might not work.
But assuming oyu get lucky, you want 1.6mm, ideally screw in. You also only need the TKL set. Long Pole TKL if you are using magnetic jades.
the module comes with good stabs, I wouldn't bother if I were you.
Ill just keep the stock stabs then till im ready to gamble
How many of you prefer the burger mount vs no burger mount
no burger mount. I can't be arsed and it's barely noticeable anyways.
O ring mount though
If my plate is made with screw ins does it support clip in stabs still
I have a third party plate from smkeyboards
I would also like to see what to see what this o ring mount is about
yes, but it would be a downgrade
Gonna keep draining money until i get the sound and feel i want
Sadge
I do love my screw ins
Currently using akko screw ins
Still need to retune my stabs tho
what if i buy 10 and test them all out would i get lucky??
You could. You also might not. Just the nature of gambling.
But hypothetically speaking, if I was doing that, I wouldn't get them all from the same place, I would get them from different stores so I am getting them from as many batches as possible instead of all of them being from the same badge.
gummy oring mount better
smart idea
thanks
did the raptor mod but some switches feel like they are binding or something
rubbing
shitty ass tolerances
It’s TX AP (without any lube). Left side is much more tight than right side. How to fix it?🌚
what actuation force is heavy enough to the point where i can rest my fingers on my keys? 30g is too light
It’s odd but if they’re smooth still it’s fine.
You have to use them, then they’ll get better. 🙂
Well depends on a lot but have you tried L60s?
nope, only l45s
Whyyy🌚
Is it normal for TX AP?
Could try L60s or wait for Woot’s spring packs.
Are they tight but perfectly functional or are they too tight?
I haven’t seen this one before. 😄
Key goes back very slowly
You can try without the switch plate installed, if it’s still, it could be the wire that sticks into the housing that’s too long but that’d be the first time I’ve ever seen it.
Or there might be a rough spot on the stem or something?
It’s the same without a stem
Then the wire sticking into the housing might be too long. Cutting it with a wire cutter leaves a sharp edge though so might want to sand it after.
It’s even different for different sides of one housing🫠
Does the tip of the wire touch the back of the housing or not?
If not maybe there’s a rough spot where the wire clips in. If it works perfectly fine on one side and not the other, just use it on the side that works?
Ah okay
For some housings it’s on both sides🌚
You have installed one on your board and tried it with a switch yes?
To test.
and it was tight to a point where it’s not functional?
Yes. Then I made hole for wire a bit wider. Now it is ok
This I call non functional.
Very odd, you could lube the hole if you have some 205 on hand.
But it’s strange that I have to do it with 80% of housing’s
Yea. Already
That’s not normal, you’re using the wires it came with?
What the heck?! 😂
You don’t have stabilizers, you have clamps sir.
Yes
Got a new cable that is rubber and usb c to usb c that supoports up to 130w charging (confirmed by Macbook), but for some reason my 60he thinks the cable not good enough for full rgb brightness and tachyon mode
which is fine as I don't use rgb but was more wanting to see if it would

Yea if u want full brightness and tachyon mode you need to use wooting cable
yeah I don't wnant it as dont' use rgb
but is a curious thing that my cable that can do 130w also tested with my usb wattage checker
can't do full rgb and tachyon 
Someone else had this issue too and I think the problem came down to the IC in the cable (or it was the voltage regulator). Something about that it wasn't correctly auto sensing the voltage request or something on low power devices. It's been a while and outside of my expertise. I'll see if @molten breach is on as he would know.
That does make sense
It's not big deal or anything as it was a curiousity factor more or so
Yeah understand. Like I said, it's been a while but when someone else had the issue Rocky or someone explained that those newer cables have a larger connector on each end because there is some processing that happens on a chip in there and sometimes they don't do great with low voltage but shine with higher voltage (relatively speaking for a max 5-12v cable)
Was playing around with a new module last night and changed the stock screw-in stabs to some TX AP plate mount stabs and only one of them worked well, the rest would get stuck. I thought maybe I over lubed them, which was already a very very light lube job and I tore them a part. Did it three times and then realized that the one that worked (the enter key) worked on every other stab as long as I used the enter key to test with. Turns out the new PBT set I used just created too much stress on the stabs for them to work properly. I switched to an old GMK set and they all worked perfectly. Talk about tight tolerances!
Which now makes me wonder how many people have had issues with TX AP stabs sticking and it was because of keycaps. I was able to replicate with two different sets.
Have this same issue with one of my stabs on my spacebar
Works with GMK spacebar
Not with PBT spacebar
And I did the same as you
Yeah the tolerances are just too tight and that's not a wooting issue.
Correct
It's yet another reason why Alexotos mentioned earlier this week that TX stabs aren't great for a lot of installs.
Yeah and doesn’t he mainly use just Cherry Clip Ins?
The problem is, they are the most widely available long pole stabs so people think it's their only choice but you can find Gateron LP stabs as well if you look. The Gateron black/silver stabs are long pole and can be found on AliExpress and other sites
Yes that's his preferred
Thought so, and yeah someone was in here the other day asking about the black/silver gateron stabs
Oh nice, maybe people are finally doing some research
This is going to be an important point and part of what I write up in the update FAQ. With the 80HE now having Jades as a switch choice, those looking for LP stabs need to be aware of the issues with TX stabs and what the alternatives are. I'll be talking about this during next week's backstage meeting.
Oh nice, a Cam edition!
Yeah, that’s good, cause the question/problem pops up left and right
I thought that was so cool lol
I have 3 of his cables and that's the one I use 90% of the time. Love the flexibility
Yo can you guys help me with some modding issues regarding 3rd party stabs?
If we can't, I'm not sure who could
I'll copy and paste what I right in the general server
HELP: So I'm in the process of tuning my TX screw in long poles, but the PC plate adds way too much pressure on the stabs on the right side of the PCB, so as a remedy, I ripped of the stab brackets on the right side plate to alleviate mounting pressure. I am currently considering not screwing in the plate as it would render my solution useless by adding pressure on the stabs when the plate is screwed in. Now I'm wondering if it is mandatory to screw in the PC plate with the PCB, since I'm not sure if the lack of screws will mess with the Magnetic Switches detection, has anyone actually tried not screwing in the plate and PCB?
Bro the flexibility is so nice
Mb for typos
You must screw in the plate
^^
Do you know if the 3rd party plates from KBDfans have more forgiving tolerances for 3rd party stabs?
The switches aren't able to be held in to the PCB since they don't use traditional legs. Just sand/file down the inside of the stab cut out a little
They don't. It's the same.
^^
I mean I ripped off the brackets with pliers LOL
The CF plate from KBD is just as tight tbh
Brackets as in the 4 plastic little legs that poke out?
Well you went a little overboard there lol
YEAH
Yeah
For next time a little filing or exacto knife would do the job lol
Or just not using TX stabs
Sometimes I feel like I’m the only person who got all tx stabs to work
I know that’s not true but makes me feel like a magician lol
I''l try to see if screwing in the plate will still cause my stabilisers to stick, fingers crossed on the switches. If not, I'll find some way to make sure the switches stay on the PCB
And I'm determined to join you there lmao
Please don't glue the switches down
Yeah obv, that would just mess with the PCB
No but he already ripped off the stab clips so when he said "I'll find a way to keep the switches in the PCB" I just wanted to mention it lol
Lmao true
A drop of superglue would actually work fine right along the edge of the switch but I that would be an incredibly bad idea
We test a lot of things, that is not one I’ll be doing hahahah
Ok i just tested the Backspace, Enter, and Right Shift Key, without the plate screwed in, inputs are fine, don't care about rapid trigger on those keys for obv reason. Fingers crossed on the stabs not sticking again when I screw the plate in
Again, if they stick, since you have the PC plate you could widen the cut out slightly with a file or exacto knife. Ideally you get different stabs though
Hopefully other keys are not affected as well by the lack of stab clips
Other keys won't be affected
Yeah, might just have to stick with stock and just buy a new set of the plate kit, won't know if the stabs will genuinely work properly unless all switches and screws are in place because of the mounting pressure throughout the PCB
I just want new he switches to come out, I'm sure they can do better than the jades
Already in the works

Basically just need a company to not cheap out on HE switch and make a high quality switch, with POM or Nylon, etc, instead of all these PC Top housings
And stop favoring RGB
RGB will almost always be a concern with gaming keyboards but a milky top might be a good compromise
Yeah I know sadly, but yeah at least milky if not opaque
Sorry to butt in again, but did you end up using the tx stabs and were they screwed in?
i'm trying to lube the stabalisers for the 60he+ but i can't see how i can disassemble them
any advice?
Yeah, ive tested every tx ap stab except their long poles
I got all mine to work on various plates without sanding anything down
Did you end up not using as much lube as you would on other boards
Also, there is already a nylon and POM HE switch out there and you dont like it 🙂
Yeah I always recommend using less lube with tx stabs
Raptors?
Yes
Yeah the tolerances are tight AF, as well as on the staebies, had to be really patient when assembling them
Yeah less is more with those stabs
Staebies are a no go with this board and the TX AP's are 50/50
^^
Maybe I shouldnt say no go, maybe like a 10% go
Yup, got a second handed gmmk pro, bought some staebies and that spacebar was not ascend at all
Haha yeah idk anyone who’s gotten staebies to work tho
I mean other than the fact that they are infuriating to assemble, I got them in my QK75N and they are great honestly, save for the fact I needed to use shims on that PCB
I meant with the wooting plate’s specifically, sorry
I think any stabs with really tight tolerances are just hard to work with
Any experience with Durock screw-ins?
Work great
how do i remove the pcb a from the top plate? ive unscrewed everything but the switches are kinda holding on pretty hard
remove the switches
just wanted to see before i did that since the video said it might damage the pcb if i remove while still attached
nvm got it i just had to use a tad bit more force
i was being too careful haha
you dont have to take the switches off to remove the plate
remove the keycaps from the keys with stabilizers, apply a little force when pulling but be gentle
Im assuming he meant the PC plate? In general I avoid manhandling the plate with the switches attatched tho, like I do not trust myself to do that without damaging the anything
also while i have this open, which pad should i use to minimize ping sounds or overall volume? the silicone one already there or the poron one?
it really shouldnt damage anything, in fact removing the switches while the plate is still connected has more chances of damaging the switches
I've been watching for a few days
Mouz and Spirit looking good
I really cant with jade switches on my stab keys. I know the keys are moving from side to side when I press hard on either side and I know I'm not doing that during normal use but it gives me a placebo feeling of it doing it and that annoys me too much. I love the jades for my alphas but I cant wait for more HE switches to release
https://divinikey.com/products/geon-stem-spacer?variant=40684931842113
I just bought this and hope that will make it better. I already tried with plastic wrap inside the keys but still annoying
Geon Stem Spacer is used on top of the switch stem or stabilizer stem to balance long-pole switches (3.0-3.5mm travel) when paired with standard stabilizers (4.0mm travel) to reduce interference. This is a great option when switching between different switches with different travels and not needing to disassemble the b
Those will work fine
I've been thinkin about shwappin out from a random amazon case lately.
It sounds decent from what I've done after following some mod tips here! But it looks/feels pretty cheap 😕
Lookin around online for inspiration, I really only see the Tofu Redux being used haha.
I was curious if anyone had some neat alternatives!? Or if I should resign myself to snag one myself
Been rummaging around online, but I'm not really the most experienced Keyboard enthusiast (if I can even be called that)
I'm kinda worried about compatibility, as I had to jerry rig my current case with a dremel for the cable to connect!
(Luckily you can only see the warped plastic if I unplug it🤫 )
For context I'm using the 60HE+ Module, and thank you in advance to anyone who responds!
I personally use a Freebird60
If u dont really have a budget Im using a klippe t case
There’s also the salvation case
I think its still on sale on Novelkeys rn
the ultramarine looks so good
Im using e white 😋
Fjell also tempting but all the colors I want are expensive af.
Good thing though they are out of stock lmao
Thank you for all the suggestions! And thank you @pastel vigil for that link!
It's all super helpful
Its also very heavy lok
Lol
Not recommended if ur traveling
That's part of why it's tempting, mass = better sound profile to my eears
When I travel I take my laptop with me, not my keyboard
will these interfere with the hall sensors? (by the increased distance between the pcb and magnets in the switch)
Yes.
It's minor ,but it's there. Barely any gain from using them, so I would pass.
But if you really want them, just set your actuation point to higher, you will probably have issues with 0.1mm and anything too low
Woot woot
what case is that
Tofu60 redux acrylic w raptor he switches
Are those the ceramic keycaps?
pom jelly clones on amazon
The Wooting can draw a lot of power and the Hall-effect sensors have trouble if the provided voltage on USB is to low or unstable. So what matters is the voltage the device see.
The cable is only a part, that should have a low resistance when around on eamp is drawn. The port need to be able to provide enough power (that's why a USB 3.X is preferred. A USB port on the PC case isn't recommended because the cable used to connect the case with the mainboard header also adds resistance and so can drop the voltage to much. If a USB hub is used it should be an active one (one with an external power supply). Other devices connected to the same power source can also cause problems. Like if there are a lot of other power hungry devices are connected the VRM for the USB ports (not related to the PSU) may can't provide enough power for all. One time I saw the charging pulse of my Logitech Powerplay mouse on the LEDs of my Wooting.
Interesting interesting
It was also connected to TB3 port on my mobo so it's as good as it was going to get
But it was just out of curiousity more than anything as I was saying to tirade since I don't use rgb 
I would expect that can provide enough and has some over provisioning for a USB 2.0 device. Because that is officially limited to only 500 mA and so 2,5 W. But the Wooting as a lot of other keyboards with fancy bright RGB exceed that.
It can be that the port may can't provide much power. Like on a laptop it can be that is supposed to charge the laptop.
I'm surprised I could connect my keyboard to my monitor with no issues.
It can be fine but there can be problems. A Wooting on 100% brightness and with Tachyon enabled can draw a lot power.
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/gigabyte/m27q-rev-1-0
Couldn't find the specs on the USB hub.
I use it on 100% brightness with Tachyon with no issues.
So your setup seems to provide enough power which is also stable enough.
But this is not the case for all. Especially third party coiled cables are known to cause issues, same for custom cables. These are often designed to be a thin cable which is not stiff and instead very flexible. These are more designed for old school input devices before the RGB hype kicked in when such devices didn't draw as much power.
But yeah I don't need RBB and just got this cable for how it looks and such anyways
so no skin off my bones
Yeah I use the Wooting cable, no point in messing with other cables for me.
Hello, I just got myself a Wooting 60HE+ module with the Lekker L45 switches, A Tofu Redux with brass weight and some white pudding double shot PBT keycaps. I also got the lubing set available from Wooting's site. This will be my first custom keyboard and I want to make it "thock". Is there anything else I am missing and any tips yall can give me? Thanks in advance
My tip would be to lube WASD first to see if you like it because it's fairly easy to overlube and watch a video while doing it to make sure you have everything on hand
Talk about tight tolerances? Talk about awful tolerances on those keycaps, that is not okay. 😂
If the PCB mounted TX APs aren’t under stress, there’s a lot of room for error.
The fact that many still think long pole stabilizers are necessary with the Jades is so disappointing. It’s a fairy tale that doesn’t get told anymore yet doesn’t get forgotten.
The 80HE’s switch plate won’t put stress on TX APs and or Staebies as the cut outs are wider so that won’t be an issue. I would be good to state in #🪛│modding_faq how unnecessary long pole stabilizers are and that they should only be considered if the user plans on using 3rd party keycaps.
The “brackets” don’t stress the stabilizer housings, the solid part on the outside does. It’s not necessary to remove the “brackets”. 🙂
Staebies are definitely a no go, that’s accurate. Their housings are stronger than TX’s so there’s no leniency, none at all. They just get offset and combine that with the already tighter tolerances. 🙃
The FAQ already states they aren't usually necessary but the 60HE still exists so the issues will still be around even after the 80HE releases. As for the keycaps, they work great on my other boards and stabs but not on the TX ones. There is a reason a lot of people don't use them and the tolerances being too tight are why.
Yeah of course, that’s the reason for the warning there. Are many keycap manufacturers’ tolerances out of spec so to say? I don’t collect keycaps personally so I don’t know.
I own about 50 sets and I've used TX stabs before but never ran into this issue. I tried with 2 different sets of PBTfans keycaps that work great on every other board I've used them on but neither set would work with the TX AP ones. I could try some more sets to verify and while having a keycap or two slightly out of spec happens, having the backspace, L shift, R shift and spacebar out of spec of two sets is nearly non-existent
The GMK set I threw on is definitely worn in so that helped for sure. I'll try some more PBT sets tomorrow, just got 3 new sets today
Exactly, that’s what I would expect. I had a dirt cheap low quality keycap set that was entirely in spec. What I don’t understand is how it could be the stabilizers that cause this as you mentioned the keycaps put “stress” on them which is why they get stuck. Not the keycap pole getting stuck in the stabilizer housing.
A stabilizer’s “job” is to align its stem with the location in which it is seated. That’s it. The functionality of plate mounted stabilizers is influenced by the switch plate and keycaps. So unless all your stabilizer housings cause them to sit crooked within the switch plate, it shouldn’t, couldn’t be an issue with the stabilizers.
The functionally of PCB mounted stabilizers is influenced by the PCB and keycaps (switch plate too but shouldn’t be).
A misalignment in any of the factors can hinder the stabilizer’s functionality.
I can understand why a stabilizer with a lot more room for error (misalignment) can be preferable of course.
I tested with both wooting caps and gmk caps and had issues with the stabs
But now am tempted to re-test and see if i missed anything
It's just so many moving parts. Do TX stabs cause issues on other boards?
Stock stabs stay winning
Eh the modifiers pretty much stopped sticking, albeit a little sluggish, had to clean some lube off for it to be more responsive tho. Still ordered a new set of plate kit, gonna see if filing the cutouts a little wide would work better
is this a viable alternative to TX for jade switches?
The silver ones, yes. Are you planning to use 3rd party keycaps on your Jades?
yes
but does this have the same fitment issue? or any other issues that i might be unaware of
Okay, long pole stabilizers are only necessary if your keycaps are loose.
No, Gateron stabilizers should fit perfectly fine without issue.
are they good tho?
If you plan to change to 4mm travel distance switches later you will have to change out the stabilizers as well, or not but then the long pole stabilizers will limit the travel of those keys to 3.4mm. 😉
They’re fine.
okay
can you guys recommend that case? https://kbdfans.com/products/tofu60-redux-case?variant=41472688193675
Specs Case: Anodized Aluminum, E-coating Aluminum or Acrylic Weight bar: Brass, surface sandblasted process Structure: Tray-mount Compatible with most 60% PCB, including DZ60 rev3.0/DZ60 RGB-ANSI/DZ60RGB V2/GH60/Wooting 60HE PCB, etc. As seen in our video in the photo gallery! Weight: Aluminum case approximately 0.8 kg
yes its a common choice
most people go for tofu or alumaze
i have it but im going to upgrade to salvation
are there any popular blank black keycaps? And should I upgrade the switches?
why excactly the salvation?
it has leaf springs
better typing feel
got it while on discount
if you get tofu i recomment you do the gummy oring mount and lube the switches
if you want other switches the most popular are gateron jades and geon raptors
is wooting going to release blue coiled cable soon?
Hi. I would like to ask about the lekker switches. Does the L60 and L45 using the same stem? I am planning to mod the RaptorHe with L45 stem but Im not sure if it's the same as modding with L60 stems.
Iirc the yellow part on the L45 and green part on the L60
Yes, the only difference between the two is their color and spring.
Thank you 🙏
Anyone that know of a dirt cheap plastic case that fits the Wooting 60HE module? I am gonna order a 60HE+ and want to give my old module to a friend of mine but need a case
You can probably find some on AliExpress but I really wouldn’t expect much from it.
Even the KBDFans D60LITE case from AliExpress?
And how come 60% cases are so god damn rare in Europe? I search for 60% cases and I almost ONLY get the really really expensive ones like Tofu or Alumaze. But I get like thousands of weird 61, 62, 67, 68, 73, 77% etc type cases
Confirmed this morning with 2 additional sets of keycaps. These specific TX stabs are too exacting to work within normal tolerances with 4 different keycap sets.
That’s almost everything in this hobby. Mostly Asia and NA.
Europe only has Woot. 🥲
Not sure, check reviews maybe?
But thank good for Wooting anyways
I mean KDBFans are a well known brand right?
Or are they some really obscure and not known brand? (I am still new to this whole keyboard hobby, sorry)
Are you sure? What would the cause be? That’s the thing that’s odd to me.
They’re a well known brand but I don’t know if all their products are guaranteed to be good.
Or did you just mean if they were legit sellers or not?
Both. I only know a few like Wooting and Keychron 😅
KBDFans is a legit seller, but I do not know if that particular product is good.
As long as it’s compatible with GH60 it’ll work.
I'm not sure I understand the question. Are you asking what would make the TX stabs so exacting as to not allow for normal/expected tolerances when factoring in all of the things that could offset fitment by fractions of a millimeter?
I like how I mixed standard and metric together "fractions of a millimeter" lol
Could I in theory buy a dirt cheap shitty keyboard from Amazon and just strip its parts and put the module into that?
That’s exactly what I’m asking. As I don’t believe all of those sets would be out of spec. TX APs have room for error, be it small but for them to be under stress when used with a presumably in spec keycap wouldn’t make any logical sense. Unless the keycap pole is catching on the housing but I don’t believe that’s the case.
Please don’t. 😂 There are cheap cases on AliExpress, which ships everywhere in Europe as far as I know.
Doesn’t take that long either.
Aight will look into it
What about Etsy cases?
Some looked kinda good and had okay reviews
I don’t think you’ll find a cheap case on Etsy but you can take a look.
This one is like 40 bucks
That’s pretty neat! If your friend likes wood and it’s in your budget it’s great.
There could be a number of things. One, the manufacturing of the stabs themselves. They are plastic and molds aren't exacting. For example this guy has tons of room in one of his stab housings - #🔧│keyboard_modding message and in my case, this set has next to no room. As in the stems have almost no room for movement in the housing, so any amount of shift at all, creates friction.
Thanks for the help btw. Imma look more into it!
In a perfect world of exacting measurements, molds, materials, tolerances, etc, this would never be a problem, but the standard measurements used only go down to 10ths of a millimeter and not 100ths, and that leaves a lot of room for error
What is odd to me is that your GMK caps, although worn, did work and your other PBT sets did not and that it is consistent with all the stabilizers rather than just one.
Not all the stabs, the enter key stab works fine.
Regardless of which cap used on it
If i were to take it out and inspect it closely I imagine it would be looser than the others.
Interesting.
Have you used Wooting’s stock keycaps with them?
On them rather.*
I havewnt
There was another person that had the same issue 3-4 months ago now.
With TX AP plate mounted stabilizers.
It’s interesting that (some of) your TX AP plate mounted stabilizers would seem to be tighter than the PCB mounted variants.
Yeah, to be clear, they make a good stab, BUT based on the feedback we have currently (and my own experience with about 6 different sets of TX stabs) are that the room for error is left so slim that people often run into issues that would not be a concern for most other stabs. There is a price to paid when making something intended to be exacting enough to reduce all chance of rattle/wobble,
Wait the only thing I forgot is the cable for the 60HE. Will any USB C to USB work or will it need specific stuff?
Any quality cable under 6ft/2m should work fine
Thanks king
Well, the issue with the PCB mounts in combination with Wooting’s plate is entirely different. Other stabilizers are more forgiving than APs and Steabies especially.
"Other stabilizers are more forgiving than AP's and Staebies" is exactly what I'm saying. It's not just specific to the external housing dimensions but also the internal.
Im willing to go out on a limb and say that when alexotos releases his stabilizer ratings next week, he will not rate TX Ap or Staebies high on the list for that reason
Yeah, I understand that. All I’m saying is that in my opinion, it isn’t the stabilizer’s job to account for other components that are out of spec to a point where they misalign the stabilizers. Although completely different, an analogy would be wanting more stem wobble on your switches to account for other components that are out of spec. You know what I mean?
From a practical point, where you change components all the time, I completely understand that more forgiving stabilizers are preferable.
Not talking about Wooting’s plate here by the way. As that is not out of spec, but rather not compatible with TX & Stae.
I think you're confusing out of spec vs within expected tolerances. You're also not considering that the stabs themselves have manufacturing variances that could also cause this issue. Wire length, housing dimensions, stem dimensions, etc. Agains, it's mass produced molded plastic that's tumbled afterwards. You can make something that assumes all of the other pieces are also exact, but it will bite you in the ass and that's what happening here.
Within expected tolerances would be different per manufacturer, however, there is a standard. If the stabilizers cause an issue because they themselves are out of spec then that manufacturer should really check their QC and allowed tolerances.
What if the issue was with the switch instead? The keycap pole was a bit off and the switch plate hole which caused the switch with tight tolerances to bind up, would the switch be at fault because it didn’t account for variable tolerances each component had?
I think you're getting it now. If everything was made to an exacting spec then you would never need to account for variance. However, since these specs are based on units of measurement that aren't exacting, you should consider that when making something that's a part of the chain. Switches, caps, stabs, etc should all be made with consideration of those tolerances. If you decide to ignore that, it might cause you some problems.
Again, that's also assuming the product you yourself make is able to be exacting (and we know that's also not the case here)
I think each component should account for their own tolerance compared to the standard, that’s not what I think, that’s how it is. If any component is beyond it’s own room for error then that component is simply out of spec.
I disagree that a stabilizer should account for other components’ tolerances compared to the standard.
That’s it. 😃
With this I meant that you wouldn’t hold switches to the same accountability so to say. 😉
Sorry guys just a question
I bought the wooting 60 to France but i don’t now when is it comming
Can anyone explain me how many time to arrive ?
On the website it says expected delivery mid april
They are still waiting to receive them to the warehouse
Ok thank you G
Passe une bonne journée
Im using jades in my 60he+ and they come prelubed. some youtubers / ppl here were saying the prelubing is pretty good and that they archive around 80% of handlubing. today i cleaned my keyboard and decided to handlube.. its a world of a difference. Sound is like 60% better and consistent now. Go and handlube your keyboard if not done yet! 
Took me 2hours tho.. 🥲
Yup Hand lubing is always better
I knew it would be better but I didnt expect such a huge improvement at all
knowing that I have to do it for the 90 80he switches in summer makes me sad already
It's cause factory lubing can be good but also inconsistent
hand lubing them yourself will give a consistent feel to the switches !!
Good luck 🫡
does the tofu60 redux come with its own case foam
Ye
Ugh i need to stem swap and lube like 150 switches
Power was out for the last 2 hours and instead of being productive I was laying in bed on discord lol
REAL
yeah I might just get the disassembly done today and lube tomorrow during work meeting
i wonder are there any hall effect switches that are compatible with mx top housings
cause i'd totally swap in something like a ws morandi top housing on a hall effect switch if i could
but from what i hear lekkers specifically aren't compatible with mx top housings due to a slightly bigger stem
Yes thats the case
The magnets need space
hey guys i wanna ask someone. I want to order the keyboard, but keycaps arent interesting. Can someone recomend cool keycaps?
so wait are there any HE switches with a opaque top that have a hole for an led window
ok i can't seem to find a list of all aftermarket HE switches anyhow
Yes but the polarity isnt correct for the wooting without beta firmware and even then it's still not a great experience yet
would they work with stem swaps
Not in this case, they are box stems
what is a box stem
are those kinds of stems mx compatible or no
yes they are
drat though
theyve got incompatible top housings
i might just stick with getting lekker v2s then when they happen
ooo where will this be posted?
On his site. He posted his switch ratings 2 weeks ago
Thank u @polar girder for sending me spare parts he didnt need 
Might try to bend some of the fins on the cooler back straight. Might have been bumped around a bit 
U14s?
Thats why the modding channel is the best channel
Shiiii anyone else with spare parts in Europe? I am about to build a PC for a friend with a tight budget of 750 bucks.
Not necessary but anything would be crazy and highly appreciated
I have spare parts but not in Europe




guys its sanic!