#š§ākeyboard_modding
1 messages Ā· Page 170 of 1
now we just wait fo them to be on amazon right
My jiggle peaks with these should be top tier
yeah, not there yet, also why this thing costs $20 lol
$0.20 a count for that craftsmanship? We are blessed
That definitely has no wobble
hahaha, better than your regular switch
idc about gimmicky HE switches with mid materials that i have out of necessity, idc about pom pc OR nylon. call me when you have UPE blends, milky tops, ink bottoms, conical springs, all that
jk dual rail cool
but where the materials at
gateron is stubborn
few years and we might see that
most HE switches are focusing on RGB rn because HE is usually gamer centric
years?? at the rate we're getting HE switches, it'll probably be months.
conical springs will be the godsend for osu
well actually raw speed is being reached by aim players but still itll become piss easy
not trying to give false hopes lol
its not even false hopes at this point, we're getting a new HE switch like every week it feels.
I really like that wooting is literally converting gamers to custom kb builders
haven't seen a lot since January. The last significant switch was Jades, because of closed bottom. Dual rail is good and all, but is only to fix wobble which is not really a concern for Jades.
Other that than, I haven't seen any major material/design changes
Yeah honestly it might be awhile before we see something thatās significantly different
Gateron already did their releases for now, so itād be up to another company to want to make a new style of he switch
does wooting deliver on weekends
wooting doesnt deliver at all, its up to your courier to decide which days they ship
What weāve been saying
Fuck these RGB switches
Only people who suck at video games care about RGB
if you want RGB go buy a Corsair, Razer, Steelseries
Keep that crap away from customs
Iāll die on this hill
well I dont think gateron is making these switches for customs tbh, I think they wanna make that bag and have other companies use them in their HE boards
Ofc
and HE boards usually are gaming focused
And want them to be RGB compatible
Yep
Which means RGB focused
Which makes no sense
How tf you see your target at 100m with the rainbow in your eyes
Real gamers donāt use RGB
gamers love RGB bro
Oh I know
I have a friend who says all my customs are ugly af
And heād rather have his Razer keyboard
I feel like its always the pros who have rainbow vomit lmao
His room is RGB puke
Thatās cause they too lazy to change it or donāt know how too
Lot of pros donāt know shit about computers
Even something as simple as changing RGB
a lot of em' will just drop a couple grand on upgrading their PC to run comp games which are usually stupid optimized
because "the best makes me better!!!"
or whatever their sponsors give them
Also very true
Iāve heard some iffy things from some of those āPC Optimizerā Companies
From Streamers
They arenāt very good from what I can tell
Better off watching some YouTube videos and researching a bit and optimize your PC yourself
but for most comp games you arent going to need to overclock
But even nowadays you can do a ādirty Overlockā and call it a day
As long as itās stable
Yeah and OCs nowadays get you like a 5% increase on performance
Itās not much
I still Undervolt and OC my stuff anyway
wdym you dont need
Bought it for testing stuff
As reference for when people are using tofus
And have questions
are you using the alumaze ?
or any other kind of case im unaware of yet? i need more info for my next Project
White E Coat

have u tried it already?
No
How much was shipping? If i buy from kbdfans i have 40⬠shippingš
Can already tell he got this from Divinikey in Cali
Yep
Shipping is $8-$16 depending
Yeah was like $5
oc is literally dying, you can't boost your performance by 30-50% anymore.
Have my 13900k at 5.9/4.6 and ram at 7200 with tighter timings currently
I got you lol
well, yeah, but you can find info on that. It's not as complicated as CPU oc
betttt 
Only thing I care about is that brush
undervolt is a new movement
i took apart my wooting at school today lmaooo
Ram OC way more complicated then CPU OC tbh
was a mess
Yeah I have mine OCd
yurrrrrr
whats in the kbdfans box?
Tofu redux
no the black one
Hmm, seemed way easier for me when I fucked around with it, but it's subjective I suppose
I understand RAM slightly more than CPU
Well you need to do primaries and subtimings then test
yeah, but you can find other peeps profiles and start from there, it will work in the most cases
With CPU you need to find values for your installed chip and deviations between same chips are way more significant
From what I've seen/tested, might not necessarily be right.
should get mine on monday do u use foam in urs?
me with my 12700 
me too lol
but the next one will deffs be X3D
worth lol?
gpu?
thockfather uses these I believe, or CAM
yeah i wanna get a amd cpu or whatnot
imma get them
o
me with my 4060ti 16gb 
same results tbh
ah, I built mine pre-4th gen
now waiting for 5th to upgrade
I swear, will do a water loop this time, wish me luck lol
i wish you luck š
is it really that worth it?
thank you š
i wanna spray paint my pc case š
for temps? 100%
Unless, you are in a tiny room.
but even then you will see better results
yeah, liquid nitrogen lol
seen dude who routed his radiators to be outside
probably really sweet temps during winter lol
Water loop and liquid metal ? š
don't forget sanding lol
Of course, needs to be flat.
Was thinking about routing a heat exchanger that uses ground water to cool down xD
interesting idea š
This is the way!
Ive delidded all my cpus tbh except for 5800x3D
Im a little too scared to demage my 5950x
I prefer not to, cause they go to my friends, oince I upgrade lol
Also the decision against it was during the time, where you couldnt get shit.. Was lucky i got the CPU and GPU on launch, seconds before the were sold out.
My wooting module feels warm to the touch. I can feel the case warm up. Not hot by any means but definitely warmer than my table or something. Is something like that normal? Itās been in 7 hours of constant usage with 100% brightness
is tachyon on? a little warmness is normal.
It is
checks out. tachyon draws a good amount of power, you should be all good.
if its excessively hot then thats when you should worry.
mine also gets hot (in a redux), usually around the top part of the case and even more so by the USB port.
Sounds good. Itās definitely warmer than my previous keyboards but itās been this way since Iāve hit 100% brightness with tachyon enabled
But it does look good š
It really does match well
I was thinking to maybe change out my keycaps to something lighter and change out my mousepad in the next couple months
But it does tie together nicely right now
mine is somewhat out of place since its the only colorful thing on my desk lol, but its all good because its a darker color it matches fine with the other black peripherals.
Got any pics?
I could take one rn
Iāve had this mousepad for years btw š been washed multiple times as well
But itās showing its age
Well worth the money. Just ready for something new
looks pretty good for being years old, most mousepads I see on here look disgusting and grey
I might stick to the blue color scheme though. If not blue Iād do purple and match some purple keycaps or something
Yeah itās been well kept for sure
I was thinking you had a rainbow keyboard or something. It looks clean, the pop of color is very nice, adds personality
this is my setup at my momās, iāll take a pic when iām at my dadās if I remember.
Some setups are very bland with black or white colors, not exactly a bad thing but nothing to really stand out or brighten the workspace
LEDs also produce a good bit of heat. Arguably more that tachyon. My case is warm also, tachyon is disabled on typing profile.
Ok gotcha. Good to know. Thatās what I expected but wanted to check in, in case it seemed off
both combined creates more heat aswell, but tachyon actually might create more heat than 100% LEDs
thanks! we hate rainbow vomit here
No, all good, just adding to the conversation.
I have some more pics in #1203701290610204742
Yeah, power consumption goes through the roof
camera doesnt do the green justice, looks a lot more saturated irl
Oh yeah it does. I had to upgrade my usb switcher to even power it properly otherwise the module would spam random keys and go crazy
it do be like that
Itās all working now but I had to keep brightness at like 30% to keep tachyon mode on previously
Now I can run it at 100% brightness tachyon enabled without issues
the world isnt ready for wooting š
for their 8k polling/scanning 80HE for sure lol
I can see the kids crying when their CPU will just give up lol
I personally don't even use 8k polling on my mouse(need to buy a separate dongle, which I didn't)
And I haven't seen in-game situations where faster scanning would significantly change the situation. Played Warzone for what it's worth.
I have the old gen super light so it uses the slow polling rate being 1k or whatever it was
Iād use 8k if I had it though. Even if I didnāt notice it but I get the the annoyance of using some additional dongle
yeah, mine is 1k as well
But I just don't see the point, unless, of course, the game is literally your job and you are damn good at it
Yeah makes sense
wooting has confirmed this shouldnt be an issue
Ah, nice then, haven't seen it
the way mice and keyboards work are very different, and the 80he shouldnt have the same issues
gotcha, that's good
that said, 8k is still wildly unnecessary lmao
but, its pretty hype how they push hardware
and while it may be unnecessary, its gonna do wonders for marketing 
āWhy does Fortnite frame rate drop with 8k 80he?????ā
Iām ready for it 
Already funny seeing it with mice
hahahaha
"shouldnt 8k make it faster!!!!!!!"
"wooting scam dont buy wottle evr!!!!!!!"

yeah, I hate people who are blaming their skill issues on the hardware, like bro cmon, you just suck, that's okay
Surely I wonāt lose to aim assist once I get 80he 8k and my op1 8k with 360hz oled!
try 540hz lol
dont forget their 4090 ti and water cooling
(they still suck) (their parents are rich)
Now I'm debating whether I should drive to Razer store and get a dongle to confirm that it wouldn't change anything for me lmao
It was good
I just didnāt keep it as TN
And I mainly play apex/finals so 540hz kind of wasted
max I would go is 2k, anything above that and you're risking game support and battery life
Yeah 360hz is old news š¤
I have 144, I think I might keep it like that, but upgrade to 4k, getting old lol
Waiting for Best Buy to restock msi 360hz Oled so I can use my gift card
isnt there like, 2 540hz monitors?
Soon to be 3
There is yeah
we stan best buy
can't do 2 without a dongle anyway
4k is overkill for gaming and is too expensive imo, get yourself a good 240hz 2k monitor.
Right now I rock 390hz for competitive stuff and then I use my aw3423dw for singe player
Since I like smaller screen for fps
I was also considering 6 monitor set up but the monitor mounts are super expensive and I would need a additional docking station to power the extra display
not for single player games lol
fair
(waiting on stalker)
Too many extra issues with 6 monitors
but I was assuming you meant comp
I'm too old for that, honestly, can't keep up with controller kids and don't really have that much time to play anymore
But yeah, for comp I would probably stay on 2k
no one can keep up with roller kids bro, they have built in cheats
I used to play FN on roller and my friends and I got bodied by like lvl 300 console players
I did pretty decent in warzone, but stopped playing for a few months and coming back was not enjoyable at all
Has anyone band-aid modded stock module stabs, if yes, did it sound and feel better or worse?
fr bro, whats worse is we usually played trios and would get double pumped by a team full of sweaty playstation tryhards
xbox players are usually better ime, but they're rarer
why is trios the sweatiest gamemode?
iirc everyone plays on PlayStation as it has stronger aim assist then Xbox
hahaha, warzone felt like that also. like you are literally playing tournament every match, can't make any mistakes
awareness, quad brings chaos
duo is mainly ratty
true. solos is also pretty sweaty but its playable, duos is more likely to be randos matching up or solo queuers, and squads is just pure chaos.
trios are usually super coordinated
yeah, my most wins was probably trio
very specific team amount means more people being friends
trios is an odd amount to play with randos
Ay small question rq, iāve never really sanded down anything on keyboards, if i decide to sand down my pc plate should i just use normal sandpaper or is there a special one for this kind of thing
yeah, but then in quad they are playing till one death lol
I used this one
most sandpaper should work, just make sure its fine enough to actually sand the plate rather than chewing it up
just remember to not sand around switch lol
You want to sand far-right wall cutout for the stab and far left, there's a notches there
that's how I did it at least
but basically anything would work
I havent done it myself so I dont know what grit is generally recommended
The lower the better, but not too fine, cause it'll take ages lol
nah just take days
Alr so i just have to use a rather fine sandpaper and im good right
yeah
Luckly i got a shit ton of sandpaper at home lmao
These two sides is what you need to sand down
this would void the warranty right? nvm
And as you can see, I didn't send a whole lot, still had to force the stab in, but it didn't cause any issues with presses
for the plate?
You can buy a new plate
It's not like you are sanding a PCB lol
Comparing the .stp of the 60HEās plate; the dimensions of the holes and the physical dimensions of TX AP and Staebies stabilizers, without leniency in the material the plate is too tight for their housing to fit through.
E white too lit
true
Its noice
if you shine a light on it does it hurt your eyes lol
This my fave set I own
oooooooooooooooooooooooooo
clean, would look better if you painted the accent to match the rose(?) color of the esc and enter
why would you do that
I do need a colored set
to fit stabs
I think the gold plays well off the pink tbh, that's why I got the Olivias
some third party stabilizers dont fit the plate, so you have to sand it to make them fit
Ah, thatās what I thought! So CAMās fit because of deviations
Long pole tx ap donāt fit in my plate
See, you are too fast lmao
Am i tripping or is that an accidental optical illusion
hm ok
are there any good gummy o rings for the wooting 60he+ on amazon
Good to know, i would prob have to sand even more since staebies are i think a bit bulkier
for burger mount or friction mount?
Probably burger right? Cuz isnt it that you cant friction mount the module with stock stabs
not anymore, you can friction* mount with the new graveshift small o-ring
Mech.land
InputRice o-rings are now available in Canada! Supports gummy mount mechanical keyboards like Bakeneko60, TGR Unikorn 60, Phantom65, Parallel Portal, Monokai Kei, AEBoards Constellation, Hause Engineering HAND and more! The 60% o-rings were designed to be thinner than standard o-rings to allow for screw-in stabilizers on both the spacebar and ba...
friction
Ohhh interesting
Any sound tests out yet with it?
In what way
doubt you're really gonna find something on amazon, check out the link I sent above. you're gonna want a small o-ring, the hardness can be whatever but most recommend something around 40a. the harder the o-ring is the harder it is to get it out of the case.
dont think so, should sound pretty much exactly the same tho
Click the pic and slightly shake it up and down (on phone obviously) and it makes it seem the backround moves but the KB doesnt lmao
I unplugged my keyboard and my computer bsod
Well thats that then
Man idrk if i should holee mod or bandaid mod my stabs
Both might feel to mushy
Yes, just leniency in the plate and a little in the stabilizer housings.
Hahaha
Yeah, for sure, just make sure to try it often, so you donāt oversand
Yeah, annoying tho, wish I was the lucky one haha
im going to be using clip in stabs instead of the stock screw in ones, so in that case i should be going for the medium one instead right?
Yeah, medium should fit
If you wonāt have issues with your clip-in, that is
Lucky bastard lol
fug wrong delete
Hahaha
at first i thought it didnt work LMAO
but it was the foam interfering
šæ
but its tight af
im also looking to get a gummy o ring probs a 30a one 
Alr, letās see if I feel the diff now lol
YOU ACTUALLY DID IT
Thatās what I have
i dont atleast on 144hz monitor š
so i just run 1k
There won't be any noticeable difference in anything below 240hz
Had a nice talk with razer guys, he said for my dpi (1000-1300) I wonāt feel past 4k
Let alone even on 240+ hz you won't really feel anything
use 1600
for consistent 4k polling rate
I use 4k dpi for 4k polling

1600 won't be consistent 4k
You'd want at least 3200
it is consistent
Either way, even on a 240hz monitor using 4k dpi and polling rate it feels basically no different than 4k dpi at 1k polling
laughs in 1k polling
At best, it's an incredibly slight increase in smoothness
just use mouestester 1.4 if u wanna test 
I did
at the sacrifice of battery life
Yeah I don't even use 4k/2k
which is why i dont use 
I just use 1k for battery life as above 1k is pointless
The difference is genuinely just not worth it
to each of their own, some people say they notice it but i sure hell dont 
At 4k I get like a third of the battery life if not less, for a almost unnoticeable difference in smoothness
I'm usually very sensitive to latency differences and smoothness differences etc
And can barely notice a difference at all on 240hz
not to mention that some games dont support above 1k
cough ultrakill
Mw3 runs stable 4k, and still can barely at all notice a difference if I'm trying my absolute hardest to notice it
Anyone here with experience using lekkers and other he switches? It's my assumption that any non-wooting he switches just arent as fast but I wanna hear from someone who knows
switches arent slower
Unless the switch has a higher than 0.1mm actuation latency is no different
firmware, pcb, software plays a big role
Obviously a 0.3mm initial actuation will be slower than 0.1mm
anyways theres plenty of gateron ks20 line switches that are better than lekkers
downside/upside is that its long pole
down side u need long pole stabs with certain keycaps

Yeah Ive seen a few people saying that
tx stabs does have long pole stabs but i aint buying new ones
šæ
u can also use geonworks spacers
Im waiting for lekker 2.0 whenever those come out
or scuff way and use tape on the keycap
q2/q3
Do I send a video in this channel thats confusing me or is there somewhere else I should do that
Oh they have an expected time now nice
Sweet
#šāwooting80he message summary courtesy of sno
White alumaze and wrist restš
doesnt mean lekker 2.0s are gonna release with the 80he
Did I missread it then, Lekkers 2.0 incoming and will be in 80HE
šæ
pretty much confirming they're coming and that they will be in the 80he, doesnt specify if they're releasing with the 80he
im just assuming they're coming soomā¢ļø
Copium
As per mouse polling rate, i can absolutely feel smoothness increase up to 4k, but I donāt think itāll be significant in games, so 1k is fine as far as Iām concerned
4k at 3200 dpi is pretty maxed out
8k has inconsistent performance for some
But some people think anything about 144hz isnāt visible to the eye so yeah
1k solid for most lol
Yeah. Need more HE
Iām bored now
Need boxstem
Yeah 8k can work fine.
If it doesn't work for people they just have too many things open or an unoptimized system tbh
Works on every game for me
Do you decrease pointer speed in win?
Yeah, thatās what I was thinking
Yeah exactly. You can change pointer speed for windows and sens in game accordingly
mine is 3.25 but this is an example
Yeah, i used 4
I like how this is my hobby but I havenāt really touched any games in a whileš
Besides stupid ones thatāll run on a potato
As much as I'd love for my Wooting to feel and sound like a plateless with a Nixie, I'd be happy for HE to evolve into its own thing. For better or worse HE should be distinguishable and not blend in with the crowd imo
Well depends on if it evoles into something good which it probably won't at this point
As much as I love my switches to sound like ratting plastic if people want that sound then by all means
I just want a board that has good performance and sounds like my customs 
Jade's have already made improvements to less rattle at least, and if that's the best that's possible then so be it. It's decent enough
Yeah I'm using jades with lubed top housing and it's enough at the moment
but they just kind of sound like generic lubed switch or nothing now, but beats what it was
Different housing materials are definitely possible
IIRC two notches down on pointer speed = exactly 1/2 distance
So if youāre used to 800dpi movement on desktop you can bump from the middle notch down two notches and up the dpi to 1600 and have identical motion with lower latency
Ah, thatās good to know, thanks!
Yeah a lot of people donāt know it
Damn I just use 4k with default pointer speed
I just got used to how fast it was
I am trying to do the final assembly and I think this small screw is too short to reach the whole
Can someone please explain
thats the screw for the pcb and plate im pretty sure
if its a silver screw then its for the pcb and plate
its a 4mm screw im pretty sure
but other than that yeah it wont fit or what not
check if your pcb has missing screws
should be 8 in total
WhatPCB
The back of your module 
you sure they all the same screws
can i see a pic just incase
@fluid ravine whatever screws youāre talking about I already used it for the back of my module
Sure
What pic
is that a Tofu?
a pic of your pcb
nvm
just leave it out, I only use the 4 outer screws
Wait
Are the back of the modules screws suppose to be silver or white
Yes you can use longer ones but im not gonna lie, if im looking at the pictures from earlier, i dont see a standoff for the middle
silver
And thereās a total of 8 white ones correct?
Cuz I had white screws
But I used the white screws to screw the back ones
silver ones
incorrect
there should be 8 silvers and they are for the back of the pcb
Oh shit
So the silver ones Iām using is wrong?? Is that why I canāt screw it in
The others worked though
They fit
The last two just couldnāt
As you can see this one fit
again im pretty sure you have not applied the standoff for the middle
nor do you need them tbh
major issue is you using the wrong screws on both ends
So what do I do
change out the screws from the back of the pcb with the 8 silver screws
Thats a first
Okay
In the tofu by defult, there should be 4 standoff mold, 2 on the top left and right and 2 on the sides
So the white ones are for my aluminum case?
there is also 2 standoff placement on the bottom and middle, those are optional
yes to screw you module into the case
So these last 2 screws are for the back
There was a total of 5
I swear
I screws 3 in already
Are u sure thereās suppose to be 8 of these screws? I just wasnāt paying attention?
fyi those 2 gold pieces are the standoffs i was talking about, and you didnt install them which is the reason why you couldnt screw in the screw earlier
Ohhhhh
yes there is suppose to be 8 screws for the pcb and plate
and 4-6 screws for the module and case
oh shi you have a alumaze i see
i thought you had a tofu
but otherwise yeah take out the module
check if you use the correct screws for the pcb and plate
Okay Iām taking it out
dont install the middle standoff, the 60he doesnt use it
by default
no but its optional
Iām confused
So for the last two silver screws, do I apply the last two gold screws?
no, it entirely just doesnt use it. period.
install one in the hole by the spacebar
@agile grove will that make the last two silver screws work?
correct screws for connecting the plate and PCB come pre-installed, howver im assuming you took them out. in that case, they look like silver screws with a flat part on the underside of the head of the screw.
the last 1, the middle screw location isnt used, but yes
So I use the white screws for the case and silver for the back of the module?
yes
case screws are either white or silver, since the alumaze and module come with screws
Okay Iāll check
did you unscrew the pcb?
Is it just me or unlube jades feels springy on release?
ok i gtg now gl
thats probably due to the spring inside the switch
/s
No sht jose 
Guess ill just lube em 
Taking the springs out might fix it
Lemme see the pcb rq
Whatās the pcb again
The back of the module
May I see the back of the module 
looks fine
see that hole in the bottom rightish of the case? install the gold screw there.
This 1?
I think it might work Iāll try it
I know what u mean now
no the one closer to the bottom
I know what u mean
Yeah
Iām doing it rn
@agile grove youāre the best dude
It worked
@agile grove also do I need to use this
@harsh dove How many keyboard did you have ?
I don't know the exact number but CAM does have 2 i'm aware of being a wooting with Alumaze60 case and the other also a wooting with a Wilba Tech salvation case
what is PE foam mod?
Putting pe foam between pcb and plate
But due to magnetic switches
It makes it feel mushy
How the hell did I not think of that
ah damn ye
My redux came in today so hereās a sound test like I said I would do. Stock wooting module, stock jades, pbtfans bow, redux case with redux foam, one layer tape mod
u didnt even use poron pad for the module?
lol i was looking for wooting on the keyboard section and didn't realize the giant blue part was wooting
where is this data graphing from btw? pros?
Here is data for proās directly from prosettings
Tofu/Brass x Jades x CF Plate x Gummy Mount x No Plate Foam x Tofu Case Foam
Holy shit thats insane
Just the spacebar sounds a bit hollow imo
Thats actually insane how dominant wooting is in valorant
Does anyone know if I could use this for tape modding?
just test the tape and see if is very sticky or not
waht is the best stabs for thie wootiung
Stock is good already
What keycaps are those?
are plate mount stabs compatibles with o ring mount?
cf plate=carbon fibre plate?
gummy o ring or o ring as in burger mount
anyways yes to both
only screw ins stabs will interfere with the gummy oring mount.
Yes
I only have to replace backspace and the space bar right?
i havent tested myself so i dont know. works on the plate mounted stabs on mine and badseed used clip ins and it works. https://youtube.com/shorts/VEZ7O3GX_j8
Yes you CAN gummy o-ring mount the new Wooting 60HE+ Module, but it means you're gonna need to switch to clip-in stabs. I used TX Stabs 6.24 1.6mm for this. Check out the full video with all the new Wooting options if you haven't already.
#customkeyboard #gamingkeyboard #wooting #module
alright I'll just try then
It is lol Iāll fix it, was tired af , it was almost 3am
Yessir
Iv works ashes
Also no issues with stab compatibility with the KDBFans Wooting Carbon Fiber Plate and my TX AP Clip Ins
you prefer cf plate or pc plate?
Iām kinda liking this cf but I got 3 more plates on the way to try out
can i ask you whats the difference between pc plate and cf plate? im on the lookout for a new plate
Will these GMK keycaps have interference considering the north facing LED on the PCB?
https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-cyl-norde?variant=44609459814668
im gonna get their WoB kit, earlier today i put my switches south facing since i dont use LEDs
I mean I could also do that but even though the keycaps aren't shine-though, but I am a bit bummed if I have to compromise on the RGB
I like the shine in between the keys
i hate it, i mean if u like it you could use a normal ds pbt set from somewhere
I have been looking for keycaps all week and can barely find any with Nordic layout
A lot stiffer, and more clack
damn, what can you recommend for more creamy sounds?
had same issue until i found WoB really
PC , POM
i already got PC, whats POM?
What does WoB stand for?
I just spent all day yesterday sanding down my pc plate for my stabs, now Iām thinking of relubing all my jades, cuz why notš„²
white legends on black keycaps
ok this key cap set looks insane with a white case too š„µ
so close to sounding like a real mechanical switch
Wouldn't it be easier to turn rgb off?

its already off, some keycaps doesnt fit that well with north facing switches
sounds good (except for the spacebar), I think the plate foam might push the thock a little more but as is it pretty in-between thock and clack
Ahh gotcha
do your specific keycaps have an issue with north facing or is it some keycaps that have an issue and you want future compatibility?
i want future compatibility
hence why i put them south facing
yeah that whole thing just sorta wasnt really true
havent heard of anyone having issues with north facing and keycaps
I think GMK used to have issues but doesnt anymore
I mean its probably fine if you arent using RGB anyways, and I guess its somewhat better safe than sorry
i dont, i did like rgb when i was like 14 tho
White on Black 
Chad south facing
Itās an issue on Mx stuff still unless youāre using long pole switches or switches with hosing changes
HE stuff is the only ones Iāve heard not have problems with it, but still donāt trust that myself 
And if youāre already modifying/pulling switches out and not planning to use RGB might as well put them back in south facing
come again
this is what i did
black screen asmr of my keyboard
any enjoyers?
pretty bad soundtest
assuming you took it with a phone?
I've found that phones only pick up the chatter of the switch
yes its with my phone
I used a dualsense controller and I think it came out pretty good, but you have to tweak with things like the material the controller is on and how far away it is
ah i see
I actually think I sounds pretty good in person but yeah it is emphasized in the video
Guys my keyboard doesnāt sound as good as it used to
Is this recency bias or so I need more lube
did you hand lube the keyboard?
otherwise the stock lube probably settled and now its drier in certain areas
my hand lubed ones feel worse after 2 months too
you cant win
just gotta buy jades
you might be imagining it then tbh
jade's have barely been out, I cant imagine you having them long enough for the sound of the switches to change
theoretically the sound of the switches should last years
the lube technically last forever
this was for lekkers, due to their very thin factory lube job the break in process thins out the lube even more.
Hmm is there 900x420 artisan pad that you guys recommend?
Cam
Chill
Youre cooking a bit too hard
Is the tofu 60 redux better or the alumaze better?
neither are better, entirely personal preference
bro isnt even cooking anymore the food is on fire
LMAOO
Like the tofu60 but its never in stock
No wonder it turned into "ashes"
restocks pretty often
The original tofu60? That got discontinued
bro?
look dm kebab 1 sec
Mb didn't read chat earlier
Sry chat ĀÆ_(ć)_/ĀÆ
anyone franken jades with raptor top housing for full nylon closed bottom switch yet?
Raptorās top housing does not fit KS-20 series switches sadly.
Now thatās tragic. Perhaps one day we will get a nylon housing Pom stem long pole switch with a closed bottom. For now Iāll just enjoy my jades.
They sound the closest to a traditional mechanical switch to me.
people who are currently using magnetic jades, do you feel the difference in actuation distance? How significant is it because I want my typing/gaming experience to feel shorter than my lekker60's
You definitely notice it when switching from Lekkers to Jades or vise versa but itās not a big difference to me. If you want a shorter travel than the jades you could try travel shorteners if theyāre already available.
You aināt living life till you do closet spacebar guys
I canāt wait for silent magnetic switches. š„²
Literally would solve all problems with HE till they get good
Canāt have shit noise when you have no noise

Do you guys lube stabilisers
Yes
Rubber dampers would work wonders on these switches
Just got my tx ap screw ins and my moduleš„³
The most noise from them comes due to hitting the end positions (plastic hits plastic).
Tried to fix that with some extra lube.
D is stock lube
Also -> PC plate, with silicone damper and the rubber damper on the stand offs inside the Alumaze. And those are L60s
Yeee on the jades I lubed top hosing and this is as good as itās going to get for the moment
They donāt sound anything close to Mx, but at least they sound like generic lubed switch now 
I lubed stems, springs (in and out) and the sliders plenty
u prefer the silicone over the poron?
Top housing is really what gets rid of that āHE rattleā or just upstroke noise
As I had lubed all the other places and still sound was there
I also prefer the silicone
If I use a dampener which I donāt
Yeah
interesting, does it sound more or less with the silicone?
Sounds less for me
oh wow, is rubber dampeners something that comes with the case/module or is that a add on you have to buy urslef?
I bough the 60HE, so i had to buy the Plate kit, where they are included
do you have a picture of what they look like?
comes with both the alumaze and module
yea i was about to say
has to be them
thanks i will try silicone instead of poron tomorrowš
Why tf a video.. .-.
xD
iirc module comes with poron and alumaze comes with silicone
Im too tired
My alumaze had none, only in the plate kit.. Or im stupid and didnt unpack all of it
deepest HE switch for best thock ?
Nah, im not;
1x Alumaze60
1x L shape part of Alumaze60
1x "Wooting" Strap
1x Silicone attachment to attach strap
2x Binding post M2.5x2 set for silicone attachment
6x Screw M2x6
1x 4° Silicone feet
1x 7.5° Silicone feet
1x EPDM foam sound dampening pad
1x Silicone stand-off protections rings
Do you got your sandpaper ready too? š¤£
Raptors > Stock KS-20s/Lekkers IMO
are the ks20's the jades?
Already sanded down my pc plate yesterday, spent all day doing so cuz I used a higher gritš
No, KS-20s are Lekkers and Lekkers are KS-20s.
Oh god š
How long did it take you?
A couple hoursš„²
š¬
no, jades are KS-20T
Alumaze60 - aluminium case
. With case foam
PC Switch Plate Kit
. Poron foam insert
Burger mount
. ORING mount
Lubbed L60 switch
. With Foam switch Poron
FL-CMMK mount stab
. Modstab, Holee mod
3 layers of tape mod
. GMK Sumi keycaps
Wooting Detachable USB-C Coiled/Straight Cable Set
Fr4 plate sound good for wooting?
CF is better if you're going for clack
PC is better for thock
Anyone know of any compatibility issues with the Gateron Jades and the 60 non+
#1173784544529363034 message this will help reduce the noise by a ton š
very time consuming though
Never FR4
FR4 sucks (itās all preference tbh)
Nvm found what i needed in The Mod FAQ
where did u put theseš
do modules have a subtle bend from factory? {if i press the far left end the right one will raise if its just the pcb]
might be your desk, mine did the same but its fine in the case
when doiong the burger mount mod. is it every screw that gooes from the pcb into the case?
Just screwing in the sides is fine
ty!
yall know of a wrist rest thatās an even length with the alumaze case? i donāt like that the wootings rest is shorter than the alumaze case, it bugs me a bit
I mean if you want run a 60% Wrist and i find it is better without it since I am running Tofu Redux Case
yeah but i also think most 60% rests would be also short, itās an āissueā specifically to the alumaze case design with the thing on the left sadly
also how does ur keeb sound now in the tofu case? what did it sound like before in the alumaze case?
Its thoc with the poron foam while Silicone runs a bit of a clack
Nope, U just gotta use the beta firmware #šŖāmodding_faq message
Where the stand offs touch the PCB
@bleak steeple Here you got the sound.
-Alumaze
-PC plate
-silicon pad
-silicon rings on the stand offs
-Foam on the bottom
-The two bottom rows are hand lubed, the 3rd row is stock lubed L60s
If you burger mod the side screws, do you still need to screw in the other ones in the middle, bottom. Etc normally? Or did you mean I just need the side screws and thatās it
a clear acrylic case would be so nice
I would do two on the sides and one by the spacebar
Spacebar needs standoff
check out kbd fans acrlic case
lowkey big brain
yeah divinikey is legit
raptor are only 40$?
it was even cheaper in korea. I think I paid like $30-35 for mine
like no mods needed to them
Tofu x Jades x CF Plate x Friction Mount x Lots of Foam lol
they're fine although most people hand lube them still and some do the stem swap if they don't mind the extra friction/heavier feel
Just double checking, this next batch of keyboards if you placed an order rn are 60HE+ for NA?
jades are also on sale for similar price btw https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006548232156.html
l45 light af for me xd, hence why i was looking for these, people stay they better
so you can pick what you prefer
yeah but jades can mess with stabs?
yes and no, if you run into stab issue with them it's an easy fix
so i wouldn't really pick just based on that
whats the fix?
add o ring or swap stab
sounded diff from what u sent yesterday
most people don't have the stab issue to begin with though because it's caused by certain keycaps being loose
Was no foam in yesterdays
ah which foam did u use?
Just normal wooting plate foam
yeah check this https://www.reddit.com/r/WootingKB/comments/18we2rt/wooting_60he_jade_switches_issues_with_stabilizers/
yeah I know, it's nothing new to jades - this is just what happens with long pole switches
so not the one that came with tofu case?
It is
but like I said 9/10 people don't have this issue happen with long pole switches
infact I have another keyboard with 3.5mm travel switches using normal stabs right now without the issue
Iām using tofu case foam and Iām using the plate foam as well , yesterdays video didnāt have any plate foam, but still had case foam
Stock stabilizers?
Tx ap clip ins
interesting, idk which ones to choose now
just want no headache
what happens is people new to keyboards see these types of threads and think it's some major flaw or something that will happen to them, but reality is most folks won't even have this happen with long pole (short travel) switches
in fact wuque morandi are one of the most popular switches in the scene and heavily used on non long pole stabs and only a few people run into this issue
zoom/meletrix heavily promote and use wuque morandi switches in their boards with normal stabs and only a very small percentage of users run into the long pole wobble thing
by plate foam u mean poron pad or do you mean you took the case foam that came with the module and put it on top of the tofu case foam?
The foam that goes in between the plate and the PCB
so the poron pad then
Sure
idk what to choose now xd
what do u mean sure? xD isnt it called that?
lol I always called it plate foam
Long pole?
the jades have less wobble if that bothers you (although you can stem swap raptors - but not everyone likes the stem swap)
No sir
im not going to do anything to them, i want the best out of the box
personally i'd go jades if I had to pick right now
isnt there a channel that had some info about switches on the wooting here?
you mean this channel/faq channel?
I thought long pole tx is better for jades. But your space sounds cool
Quality keycaps are better for jades
lol
If you read Sno and Strafes conversation, you donāt need Long Pole
Thank you tho, I stuffed it with putty
found it, also is the beta for this released?
my bad
it is
So I should return tx ap long pole and get normal one while I am waiting for keyboard?
? why would you return them if you already have them and are using jades
Ah, ok. I misunderstood that long pole are not good for jades
They are fine but not required is what weāre trying to say
If you already have them, keep them if youāre using jades
jades more clackier than lekkers?
Mmh yeah Iād say so
not more chattery if that's what you're thinking
Right
clack is a different thing to chatter sound
no clackier
Out of the 4 I have, Lekkers and KS20u are the deeper of the 4, compared to Jades and Raptors
But Lekkers and Raptors have the most chatter imo
KS20u and jades have a cleaner sound
But they all sound like HE at the end of the day lol
Jades being the best for sound imo
ks20u was what i was looking for
Those are solid
Esp if you want no wobble
My batch felt overlubed slightly but otherwise pretty good
just to be sure its these right?
No
oh
I feel that, Iām sure somebody has them in EU
Why there are no ks-20u in Gateron storeš«
they're very new to public release
As I know they are as new as jades
they're newer
Ah, ok
they were basically announced same time as jades was released but didn't release until recently
https://www.keychron.com/products/gateron-double-rail-magnetic-switch?variant=40784600662105
Looks like ks20-uš¤
only mechkeys has the ks-20u?
and taobao too but that's complicated and harder to order from
whats the diff between ks-20 and ks-20u
ks20 is very old, it's gaterons version of lekkers
uhh
guess ill just have to wait then
wonder when they will be released
Any benefit of these over ks20-u's
Those arenāt compatible with wooting
Oh
First step is to remove kaspersky from your system
anyone else here using tx ap clip ins on the 60he +module, do u guys use the stab stopper? for spacebar and backspace its kinda loose
I used it

All you need is common sense and windows defender
well I've been running kaspersky and it was just now that it got flagged
can i just check the tx ap screw in stabs fitting the wooting module - buy and hope they fit don't want to sand anything down....
are there any aftermarket stabs thats good that fit the module ootb?
as I told you š just lube the stock ones and they are very good
after spending some tab lubing\greasing mine it made them really nice sounding
Sorry I am new to keyboards building. What do you mean by standoff?
The brass hexagon screw, shouldāve come with the case, I believe
Without it, the screw wonāt reach the bottom




