#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 159 of 1
is there anywhere specifically that has loads of backlit keycaps
or am i just shooting a shot in the dark till lucky
jk ignore me guess im just picking something under google results for "backlit keycaps" 
do stock stabs work with gateron jade switches with the stock pbt wooting keycaps?
ive heard issues with the jade switches, but only with keycaps that arent stock- if i do need different stabs, what would they be?
thanks
how to make wooting sound creamy?
stuff as much foam as possible
will ceramic keycaps work on the wooting?
ive heard that the spacebar is too heavy for the l45s

Now it sounds a thousand times better!
Is this this stock steel plate btw
is lubing worth it
what stabs for the jades? the FAQ doesnt exactly say which ones..
I have tx ap
those are stabs?
But if you want to be really safe get tx ap long pole
It really depends on your keycaps
Quality ones don’t have issues
Should be fine
ok, im worried about the far ends of the spacebar
Can search in here I imagine someone has done jades with stock keycaps
For example
Np
If you get newer batch of lekkers or jades not a big deal and just use stock
Pretty good factory lube now
Its the pc plate
Im using tx ap
what is the best place to get those? preferably fast..
Word just looked different to me for some reason so thought you got a custom one
Region?
NA
TX AP Plate Mount Stabilizers are kin25's adaptation of the clip-in stabilizers to a plate mount form. Following the "AP" or "Almost Perfect" feature list of a doubleshot stem to improve the fitment of the wire, reduce unwanted noise, and reduce wobble. TX AP Plate Mount Stabilizers Feature: Designed by kin25 Version:
base or 2U?
are these compatible with the screw in? im gonna have the module 60he+
Yeah plate design still has clips
But if you want screws in they have those too
Or clip ins
what is the difference?
what about tx ap long pole? i heard on the jade FAQ that long pole was best
They’re good for long pole but if you ever switch from jade they’re not as good
I have jades with tx ap myself
Not long pole
and those dont have a problem? I'm a little concerned with the redundancy of getting extra stabs in the first place, considering some people are saying you dont need them
alright sounds good
I don't plan on switching from the stock keycaps, and if I do ill take another look at the stabs
but thanks for the help!
I have the 60he+ module with Gateron Jade switches and hyperx pudding keycaps
i have no issues
np mate thx a lot
Are kineticlabs keycaps good?
https://www.newegg.com/p/2VS-00KS-003N5
Does anyone know if this case would work for the 60he? It looks fine to me but I am not very knowledgeable on this kind of thing.
I see another GH60 case on the compatibility list, but I am not sure if that always means it will fit because I see the Tofu60 has multiple kinds and only some are compatible.
would 60he+ work with other screw in stabs
uh yeah? that’s the point of having the option of screw in stabs i’m pretty sure
Wooting only plate mount 💀
Can someone correct me? Was Wooting going to have metal cases for Two HE and 80HE? (my mind is saying yes) or are there cases that are compatible with the Two HE?
80HE? Yes. Zinc Alloy case announced.
2HE? Not from us. There's a German company that's been toying with an aftermarket case they would offer
Thanks - look forward to both
Really curious about the 80he layout changes 
Oh I was told there’s other changes coming.
I was told there was going to be a knob somewhere.
A knob ?
Wat no
Hey! I am planning to buy the two HE do you know of compatible cases? Maybe the question has already been answered?
Hrm have I been lied to
U can see the website there is no knob
No such thing.
All there is the arrow keys
A knob is in the works.
O i c
💀
If you are referring to that, it's not official
Not a variant.
Current 80he known layout makes little sense to me so ya.
So into 80HE ok
I’m eager to try some HE action.
Though I tried programming without arrow keys for a bit and that was a pain in the rear
Not sure if Anders is Wooting official but he an admin should know something and he just confirmed it 
So again, excited to see what they come up with
How does it sound
I am quite official, I assure you.
Calder "leaked" the knob previously. We'll cover it in more detail in coming 80HE videos I believe.
Sounds amazing compared to stock
What screw in stabilizers would you recommend? TX AP or Gateron Ink V2?
And what size should I use? (1.2/1.6)
The most official Duck 
tmw you have the wooting staff role and get questioned on if youre official or not
if they cost the same I would take TX, 1.6mm for the wooting 60HE+, for all other models you need the plate mounted variant
Okay, thanks
I should try stock plate mount stabs?
there's no reason to swap them out if you're happy or fine with them, try them out first then swap if you're still not happy is what he's saying
I mean why not
or are you ordering from the store where you buy stabs anyways
absolute worst case you gotta use mediocre stabs for a week
I just want to build perfect keyboard😁
i may not be the best person to say this but... a lot of keyboard stuff is subjective
there is no objectively best keyboard
you will most likely have to order stuff, try it, order more stuff, try again
and so on
But there are certain aspects that can give you advantages other keebs can’t
Like rapid trigger and lower actuations
yes but feel and sound are not something that firmware can change or fix
True
Welp the aliexpress keycap broke, sounds horrible now lol

Get a new one
A bit of super glue could fix that.
Btw mansen during shipping is it normal for some of the polycarbonte to melt?
That is a very random question.
It is indeed LOL
Because when i recieved the module rn, there were some bits of the polycarbonate that looks melting ish
O and uhh its been a week since the email
I did that for the first module and the 2nd order
and now ima email wooting again with photos man Supports going to have a field day
LOL
should be entirely fine up to 125C
so no, would not be normal
Not my side either way the module board shldnt be a problem its just a bit jagged out inbetween the switch line
Ye sure
so i got 2
i will expain which is which
while emailing to Wooting
I was putting into the switches into the PCB PC and afterwards realised how the PCB PC was warped all switches were in btw so no way and my strength is literally not thor
This is what i just recieved
Ive emailed wooting about it alrdy so dw
and it is p minor
do you mean that
Yea its just the injection mold issue right
Ye
Ah okay then no issue
Still got no explaination for this tho, im starting to think it was the shipping part that made it too hot
Or a defect
not entirely sure what you mean
Look between G and H
Ive alrdy talked about this q a lot of times and i feel like a idiot LOL
The middle
Then its a defect either way
Where is the issue? I don't see anything.
and look how it behaves then
The first picture the middle of the PCB PC is warped
The 2nd one i will forego since it is just normal stuff
Warped?
Yea
I don't see anything? Where what?
You can see the picture here LOL
try using a different switch in the G position
like it really looks like the housing did not close properly or something
Dude even without the switches its alrdy bent in
do you just mean that little tab
yea no wonder it is bent in when you pushed it down
No dude its alrdy BENT IN

WELP it is what it is till the email reply
Either way i made too much theories in one day
I'm using the keycap from the old keyboard meanwhile 
Im still waiting on mine to come over im rn using temporary keycaps
Got fractured in multiple pieces sadly, no way I'm going to glue that together 
3D printing then glue it
which pc plate comes in the module?
The white one.
But it is a DIY version and u can buy the PC plate
module should be coming today
Nice
Thanks boss, I appreciate it. Will be using it later
Are there any good keycaps that have their legends/symbols also shine with rgb?
Backlit keycaps is almost exclusively a "gaming brand keycap" thing.
Like ours.
Happy 2 help
then i guess ill buy the wooting white keycaps
You can also run the take control keycaps
planning on getting the tofu60 redux
in white
pretty certain those two combined wouldn't look too good
is there gonna be a white coiled cable soon?
We went with a slightly warmer white, because cold white looks odd.
talking about the take control keycap set
It's in the works! No final date yet.
should i lube my wooting with super lube
It does look good
Dw about it
or will it fuck up the magnets in the switches
im running knock off ABS keycaps for gawr Gura from Aliexpress/Another dropshipper LOOL
probably not, but I wouldnt recommend it anyways since it'll probably be too thick
just get some 205g0
i've done it on other keyboards (not with lekker switches) and they worked fine, even when i overlubed
i won't overlube my wooting tho cuz 180€ is a lot of money
What screw-in stabs fit the wooting60 he?
If it isnt the 60HE+ Or the module you can forget about it
Screw in stabs are for those since it is compatible while the old 60HE is plate mounted
ah
check #🪛│modding_faq
damn
60HE only supports plate mounted stabs.
No bueno
damn i really thought i bought the 60he+
I mean... you can return it within 30 days, if it's important to you.
Nah, i love it either way
what stabs does the wooting 60he use? wooting ones?
looking at these rn
I hear plate mount works
those are clip in
But idk
I hear plate mount doesnt work actually
this all so complex I swear 
theres no point to get third party stabs tbh, the stock ones are good enough
third party stabs are going to sound the same if not worse since they arent factory lubed
idk, my spacebar kinda rattles, more lube then i suppose?
TX AP plate mount and screw in have been reported to not work
its minimal, but if you try you can notice it
There
For some cams worked well
So idk
probably needs some balancing and lube
He can band aid mod
did it
its so odd that some have issues and some dont. my TX AP clip in stab is working fine in my delete key.

I have TX AP Plate Mount on my regular 60HE that work fine and I also have TX AP Clip Ins on my 60HE+ Module that also are working fine
its must be some weird molding errors they have
Both with wooting pc plates
that "AP" is really setting in
Both
anyone recommend some screw in stabs for the wooting?
TX AP
Bet bet
Screw ins dont work
if you have the module then the stock ones
For AP
The stock screw ins on the module are fine
Oh okay
they might not work. but yeah just to be safe maybe get clip in.
Then yeah you can get some screw ins, some have reported issues with tx ap screw ins tolerances fitting the plate so just be aware
@harsh dove so considering that I have a basic old 60HE (not the + variant or the module) I could try TX AP plate mounted stabs?
Yeah @neon harbor
@harsh dove welp ima assume u havent seen my dms yet
Tune?
they really arent
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
would you say they are on par?
yes
jesus christ new chapter unlocked
I only thought you can onl- whatever
Yeah takes a few mins
Yeah my module comes today
Going to switch to TX AP clip ins for the friction mount
Gonna have to lube and tune those things. First timer
I dont have a syringe to tune my stabs 😔
Needs syringe?
Somethin like a syringe
I just remembered I have some in my medi kit lol
you actually only need the clip in on the delete key (if you're willing to mess with the o-ring by the spacebar). I'd sorta recommend doing this since the stock stabs sound really good (and the spacebar can be tricky to get sounding good), but if you cant get the o-ring to sit right under the plate the spacebar keycap will hit it.
@harsh dove sorry 4 the ping howd u manage to install the clip ins for ur TX AP
Don’t need one
you dont?
Can just use a brush or if you have dielectric grease like he does, you just stick the wire in the tube
Like normal
im assuming you can disassemble plate mounted stabs too?
O i c
the ones the guy is using are screw ins
gotcha so just brush some 205g0 on?
Thats one way luigi
Shld be a lever on the stabs for plate mounts not sure
Yeah screwins would be nice. Maybe I’ll just try that one first thanks.
Only on the stems, not for the wire
You can for the wire but it’s not ideal
Better to use something thicker like molykote or dielectric grease
I dont have either of those unfortunately. my friends just dipped the wire into the tub of 205g0 and it seems like their stabs were fine
Yeah just do that then
Just know that it settles quickly and can end up on your PCB which is fine, just can be messy
I'll probably brush it on for my TX AP stabs tho since I've heard the tolerances are pretty tight
yeah when they did it they got lube all over their hands but in the end it was fine
Permatex dielectric tune-up grease protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. Required for modern high energy ignition systems, dialectric grease extends the life of bulb sockets and prevents voltage leaks around any electrical connection. Also prevents spark plugs ...
If you guys wanted to get some
so for my module was planning on flipping my jade switches to south facing
So you finally have your awesome new 60HE Module, but you're not entirely sure how to put it all together? Let's get started! What's in the box Opening the box
why?
gmk
there shouldnt be any issues with GMK keycaps
i know new molds arent supposed to have clearance issues
plenty of people use them without issue
They don’t
I own multiple GMK sets and have them on my wootings north facing
anyway question being is that even recommended? says in the link above that it could damage pcb but ive never heard about that before and i saw brian from badseed do it too
Check out the Fractal Design Meshify Lite case here! - https://bit.ly/meshifylite
👇 PULL IT DOWN FOR THE GOOD STUFF 👇
Finally getting under the hood of the Wooting 60HE. We're gonna talk best practices for the Lekker switch, swap it into a Tofu60 case, we'll talk stabilizers, case dampening, and how to get the best sound out of your keycaps.
✅T...
gotcha
just confirming though if i did there wouldnt be any problems
Yeah there’s no longer issues, they’ve changed the tolerances
gotcha
i was planning on having a red rgb profile like this
tofu redux and gmk zen pond
better north or south? north right
If you’re going to use RGB then do north facing
thanks cam
But helps you to tune the stabs a bit if needed without disassembling all the keyboard again, also easy to get and cheap, but I used it with dielectric grease, krytox with brushes only
LOL no way
thanks for letting me know 😅 but my point still stands lol north facing fs for the outline
tbh
have mine south facing
for a bit of glow that is more than enough
even with the raptors
Lmao I didn’t even bother to look at the photo but yeah that is a red plate
did this. its insane how well it improved the sound and type feel
And yeah basically doesn’t
Up to you at the end of the day
I gave a lot of love to my delete key. its amazing
Yeah I’m pretty happy with my stabs
Probs do a sound test later today
Since I haven’t made one since I modded it
dual rai what
And then I’ll have 5 different HE switches
oh
Lmao
and they all still suck compared to MX 
cry about it
bro is 12
I defo am, yes
tik tok brain for sure
it's true im number #1 in na on all games now
oh yeah mx stuff already lasts long tho so that not a big thing haha
most people would die before seeing their mx switch fail
Lmao yeah but marketing
Wooting x Cerakey
upload a sound test pls
Ill have to do that later, friend has my mic atm. It sounds different, in a good way I think, like tapping on a vase 😂
Those must sound so good with jades
are matrix keycaps good
But they don’t feel good lol
Ceramic keycaps?
Yeah
I mean it’s subjective
I don’t think they feel good for gaming
Unless you like slippery keys
And they’re heavy
But again, you might like that
Just ordered my wooting anyone have some cool looking keycap replacement ideas? I dont know anything about modding keyboards lol
Are you looking for anything in particular ?
Keeb parts vendors based on region and reputability
Not really sure tbh I like the blank keycaps with the letters on the sides. However I read a lot of mixed reviews on keycaps rubbing off really quickly :x
Rubbing off quickly for the side printed legends or in general?
general
I like to change the RBG color layout of my setup often so I want something sleek but neutral
You mean like the legends rubbing off?
Dont wanna get tied into one color scheme
If you get a decently high quality set, the legends won’t rub off
idk I've read certain material causes the keycaps to become "shiney" really quick? O.o
So what material am I looking for
I was just going to ask you if you got them yet lol. Waiting on that review. Getting my module today. Not going to lube the lekkers until I know if I wanna buy the ks20. Ain’t tryna lube twice
lol yeah I’ll let you guys know soon as I get em
Yo I had a question about lubing too how neccesary is it? >_>
It’s not necessary, it’s only if you wanna make it feel “smoother” and changes sound a bit
It’s not completely necessary if your switches come with good factory lube job but otherwise it can make quite the difference @eager ore
I usually like to film and lube all my switches even when they come “pre lube”
Hand lube will always be more consistent
Yeah I usually hand lube all of mine
Only ones I haven’t hand lubed fully are the Jades
My batch seemed pretty consistent
Its not fun hand lubing tho 😔 @eager ore so if you wanna spend few hours doing it lol
If I want to just lube my stabs what do I do if I don’t want to spend a lot of money
Dialectic grease probably your best bet
If you have leftover 205 from lubing the switches you can use that
Anyone think wd40 might work?
It will not, it’s not a lubricant
and not a grease at any rate
you want thick grease for the stabs, pretty much anything works, dielectric, silicone and lithium grease are all next to nothing and work perfectly fine
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
How do they suck?
yeah these are actually pretty decent stock stabs
Mine would rattle/tick fairly quickly tbh even with tape and making them rock solid on the plate
Had some durocks ones I used before getting tx ap and were much better
My unit from like October 2022 or something so idk if much changed after that for stabs
does anyone have the link to the module setup guide? i cant seem to find it, and i just got my module and alumaze case (first time keyboard build)
From my experience and gathered knowledge, the durocks are almost identical to the stock stabs
Stock stabs are pretty good after a good lubing and tuning
May require more tuning than TX AP but user experience varies
End result is really the same once done correctly
Yeah newer batches probably better then
Tuned them same way I did all my other boards and they would start ticking in a short amount of time. Durcoks were a little better, but TX of course been ez mode
Yeah fair enough
They have a very high pitch ting sound
Did you lube and tune them?
No I plan on doing so to removie the sound
for some reason my right shift and enter keys arent working with north facing jades
anyone else have that issue
they work fine with south facing tho
they just get stuck on the bottom when they r north facing
Something to keep in mind when it comes to stock/factory lube is that at first it could actually be good but as that package travels across the world or wherever, it gets moved around a lot (or thrown) and is put on multiple vehicles where it experiences vibrations and what not and that lube or grease settles and depending on how that package is orientated. That lube or grease can settle unevenly, resulting it what seems like a bad factory lube job when your receive your package.
also @harsh dove u lubed ur jades right
Not fully
wdym
Just didn’t have time and haven’t done it since
Otherwise I would do the springs and such
hi guys
question
i don’t have to worry about the middle standoff right? like i don’t have to screw a screw in it?
No you don’t
okay perfect thanks so much!
Heating and cooling too in some cases
Are these worth upgrading from the dt990 pros?
I've never had them so I couldn't say, but probably not
for me personally tho the larger cushions seemed nice and the detachable cable was a must for me as in the past I had a cat who made me go wireless
i just disassembled my jades and im wondering if i should clean the factory lube off bc im completely relubing them
I usually lube right over the top of the factory lube
okay cool
990s are great cans you know
Any recommendations for custom keycap sites from europe
What case is that?
Tofu60 Redux new anodized Mocha
Ooo do you have any other photos? Trying to see more examples of this Mocha colored Tofu
Here it is 🙂 this case is soo beautiful
Yeah it looks amazing
looks cool
This might be a dumb question but I have never used wootility do I have to like change the switch to jades in the program?
I got the same question about jades
olivia!
Casual 300€
InputRice o-rings are now available in Canada! Supports gummy mount mechanical keyboards like Bakeneko60, TGR Unikorn 60, Phantom65, Parallel Portal, Monokai Kei, AEBoards Constellation, Hause Engineering HAND and more! The 60% o-rings were designed to be thinner than standard o-rings to allow for screw-in stabilizers on both the spacebar and ba...
You guys see this?
Friction mount with screw in stabilizers??
module arrived 
someone should test this
no
is there anything i can do to get this bottom housing off without taking out pcb and plate
no thats not recommanded
take it out like a normal switch
I planned to burger mount in the stock wooting case, is that recommended or would it be too difficult to line the usbc port back up? I don't want to have to crank it down and risk warping or damaging something.
i cant
u know how u press in the little pins to take out a switch
I think if u were to press in both of them
ye top housing does help
hmm
are you able to bend the pins while using ur other hand to take it out a bit
me being confused
cute pfp haha
if you are going to do all remove the plate from the case
this way youre just damaging stuff
i just got it out
kinda messed up one of the pins but i have a lot extra so its fine
thank you
dont have my screwdriver and didnt rly care ab damaging one bottom housing just wanted it out
👍
I tried to recreate the problem
and also ended up breakin the pin LOL
😭😭😭im sorry
it's cool I forgot how fragile switches were lmao
yezz ty made it on my own 😎
its really clean 
Is there a certain kind of dialectric grease i should get for stabs?
its just dielectric grease
but to answer your question ig
Permatex Dielectric grease
Alright ill get some of that
Just curious but why use Dielectric grease when you can just use kyrtox 205g0?
From what ive read dialectric is more for metal on plastic contact
like tha wire
krytox for the housing
I have it as well. This exact one. I think Krytox 205g0 is far better and it also saves money to not have to get additoinal grease for just stabs specifically
The reason why people don't recommend using kyrtox 205g0 on wires because it's too thin and it's also expensive
You lube once and never again
its good to have thicker lube for stabs
It makes more sluggish, krytox 205g0 I think is better
From personal experience^
personal preference ig
stab wires need thicker lube to eliminate rattle
I just think 205g0 is too thin
I have that dielectric grease just laying around for the past 4 years
honestly, use a light amount and just break it in overtime
Even taeha types uses 205g0 over that grease
One of the keyboard gods recommends Dielectric over 205
Alexotos
In his stab tuning video
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
And he explains why
I see, I would still personally prefer 2050. Dialectric grease is wayyy too thick for stabs in my opinion. If you're L45's I think you'll really notice the grease over the 205g0
If you have really heavy springs that I can see the grease being nice but most people here use lighter springs
Yes correct, it also saves you from buying more grease if you already have the 205g0
Yeah
I had a thought of using krytox on the TX AP stabs due to the stem thickness increase which has tighter tolerance but i still went with grease and break in over time to maintain it if that makes sense
which probably doesn't
Gotcha, if unsure. Just test out both. Kytox to me is the clear winner for stabs (preference though)
Welp, I was gonna send you guys a pic but the stabs are bothering me
Time to tune lol
What happen to it

Backspace is sticky ever so slightly on my regular wooting60he
and the enter sounds inconsistent to the rest of the stabs
but ima just redo all of them
so im cleaning them now
us fr
lmao
Grease is way cheaper than Krytox
Not exactly. If you already have kytox 205g0 then it's cheaper to just re-use that. Those who go the lengths of lubing their stabs will also go lengths to lube their switches and already have it on hand
I was in the same boat, I already had 205g0 and decided it would be worth getting dialectric grease for stabs alone, it was not worth it in my opinion. Just wasted more money and now have it sitting around for the past 4 years or so
I have a very small amount of Krytox left, I got grease for the wires, still using Krytox for the housing, the improvement in the stabs was great
For it to be worth it to have dialectric grease, you'd need to lube like 100 set of stabs
I would say if you plan to build multiple boards, buy grease, if you're just doing one board, the 205 is likely fine, if you are doing just one board but not happy with the 205, then you can get like 0.3oz of grease for like $5
Yeah for sure, it can help reduce rattle either way you go. But I personally prefer the 205g0
A while back I did the stabs of my gmmk pro only with Krytox because I did not have any other lube, but at he end it will cost you more
Only if you lube a buuuunch of stabs
Most people here lube stabs once and never touch it again
Yeah and for a lot of people this is their first custom
Exactly
Plus Krytox 205g0 is pretty cheap, you can get just small amount for like 8$ or so
That'll lube you like 10 sets of stabs easy
Will this stuff be alright?
Krytox left vs grease left 🙂 I prefer to keep the small amount left for the next switches I buy
Ima take that as a yes
Does burger mount make a noticeable change to the sound?
I assume no
Yeah no doubt that grease can last you a lifetime
Yeah I mean you basically buy grease once and never again if you get the 3oz tube or bigger
Once you've done like 50+ boards, you might need some more, maybe
probably closer to 100
i forgot how crazy the pom jelly keys sounded
anyone know how to fix stab ticking? my right shift and enter key tick only in the top left of the key. I've tried adding more lube to the stab but it hasnt worked so far.
Could try and see if the wires balanced
i'll try and check. added all the switches in assuming that the stabs were fine now gotta take them all out 😭
module is bottom 
do we need the 3 stand off if we gummy mounting?
so instead of the 3 stand offs we just use the o ring to hold in correct and i don't have to screw in the pcb into case @quiet bay
yes gummy mounting is a friction mount and doesn't require any screws
okay thank you
Okay now I don’t even want to risk doing this to lube my stabs
i would always reccomend doing it
you spent like hundreds of dollars might as well make it great
not necc to do it as well i saw the ones that came on it already had lube
What is the case of the bottom one?
can you gummy oring mount the salvation?
you can ask cam how that went, not a matter of how but why

yes you can
Im almost tick free!!
alpha pipe CHAD
Currently installing Staebies into my Wooting and not getting any bounce back after the key is pressed. Anyone have staebies and can give feedback back? I guess I could have over lubed every stab out of excitement but I feel it’s unlikely.
take the keycap and switch out, send a pic of the hole where the switch goes
also, try and see if it works with a keycap and stab with no switch
Oh no..
Did I make a dumb mistake lmfao
I don’t think so. I have a hunch but I hope not.
Did you removed the keycap and switch?
Then you can check if your PC Switch Plate looks like this:
too much lube, spring might be too light for keycaps, or plate tolerances causing the issue
it's one of those three
most likely it's what aligner is saying and that would fall into the plate tolerances category
I’m thinking over lubed…
WHAAAA THE PINS
Put a keycap on it without the switch and see if the stabs can move smoothly up and down.
Yeah, it’s the switch plate. I presume it pushes the staebies too close to each other so when you put a keycap in it becomes extremely tight. You’ll need to remove the switch plate anyway so do that and test again with a keycap.
I’ll remove plate and try again, one min
Wow this makes me want the salvation even more 😮
Does anyone know the standards of stabilizer holes? The measurements so I can compare.
Can’t seem to find much on it online but I know most use cherry standard.
Staebies are kind of known to have some compatibility issues tbh
First time rocking staebies and was excited, I’ll try with no plate and throw a Wooting stab on and compare
Have you tried removing the keycap and using some tweezers to pull the stabilizer stem up and down?
Just to see if it works smoothly that way or not
I presume it’ll be smooth without the plate.
Which keycaps are you using?
Without the keycap it’s fine. When you put the keycap on it pushes the stab stems outward, tight against the stab housings.
Big rip I finally decided to order gateron jades switches… Chinese New year holiday, they ship orders on 18-19th February
That’s how fate punished me for hesitating too long
No local seller?
It do be like that sometimes.
If it does it on all of the stabs, it's probably the stabs and the plate tolerances tbh
It's probably not your keycaps
Not in France, not even in Europe rip
Look at the plate pins.
Yeah I saw
Bummer
I guess I’m just gonna stick with my switch tape modded lekker for another month
You can see, the stab stem sits tight against the outer wall on both stabs. The keycap pushes the stab stems against the walls causing friction.
CNY is over in two weeks, a little wait but it’s worth it IMO.
Just started yesterday, if I’ve knew
I think it is a mix of over lubed and plate tolerances
But I’m no professional
@tawdry tree
I see what you are talking about
So staebies don’t work with Wooting PC plate. Did I discover something for the people’s
Yeah, the fact that all but space actually move suggests plate. I’d unscrew all stabs, take out the stab stem and wipe the lube off with a warm damp cloth, then reassemble.
Or use the stock stabs and call it a day.
Im thinking of using stock stabs and cleaning this up and putting them in my work keyboard
Have you tried it without any lube?
I have not
Tolerance seems tight, I dont think there's any problem with the lube but damn thats unlucky man
Unlucky or just not compatible?
Yeah might be best. It could be that even if you removed a bit of lube on the stems it’d still not work well because of the plate.
I had this problem momentarily with TX AP Plate mount stabs
but i managed to fix it
but yeah try to wipe everything off like aligner said and use everything as stock
Haven’t gotten mine in yet but I think not compatible unless you sand the stab holes bigger.
Only if he ain’t tried yet, otherwise just stock stabs will do. 😂
Stock stabs are fine right? lol
yeah the stock stabs are fine
but wipe off the lube and grease from your stabies and test them stock without lube or grease
see if they work
I just don’t want to clean a stab and reassemble to disassemble again lmfao
I will though. For science
best to know ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Only if you want to
If it saves someone else a headache, I’ll spend the 20 mins really quick
Stabies are screw ins right?
Yes
No lube, no plate
No lube with plate. Plate is not screwed in
@tawdry tree @fluid ravine
Yeah, as I thought. What happens with some TX stabilizers happens with Staebies too.
Plate it is
tolerance it is
FAK
So Staebies on not compatible with Wooting plate, unless the plate pins are sanded down?
Or TX stabs in general
Yes. The plate has to be sanded for them to fit.
This happens with some TX stabilizers too.
Well I’m happy that you guys help me find this out. Maybe this can be made more public so others don’t run into the same issue. Stock stabs it is! Lmfao
You guys saved me a lot of time. Thank you
I’ve been trying to get a stabilizer compatibility list man.. 🤣🤣🤣
You saved many others time and money as well.
Well guess im going to be sticking to my 60he :)
save me the trouble with money, time, USPS, and stabs ig 
Pros and cons of being the first batch amirite
@ Wooting, send me Module Plate V2 first please 🥰🤣
lmao
order the black pc plate fr
Take of the minute; the module should’ve come with a PC plate that didn’t support plate mounted stabilizers.
I don’t know enough about keyboards, is that the reason? Because the plate is compatible with both?
Nobody in their right mind uses plate mounted stabilizers on a keyboard with PCB mount support.
I assume they wanted one PC plate mold that support both the 60HE and 60HE+ (Screw Ins) so because of that they made the holes tight so plate mounted stabs sit sturdy in the plate.
Don’t get me wrong, there are many boards that support plate mounted and PCB mounted stabs but then the plate mounted stabs don’t sit as tight as they do with Wooting’s plate. BUT they do support TX and Staebies.
I do have the novelty kit but i'm waiting till the purple starts to look boring to switch it up
porpol :p
i really wanted to go into a purple theme type shi but then i was like nvm noticing that the colors in my setup are just black, white, and gray
i do have purple backlight on lol

Same
“👎” 🤣
Yo bro @fluid ravine should I get this and just keep it screw in?
You’ll have use for those Staebies in your other board right?
I feel like that thumbs down is maybe mostly for the switches and not the stabs lol
I could be wrong
I’ll either use them in my other board and take out the durocks or keep them and buy a 2nd plate once more support comes out
The Staebies aren’t compatible with Wooting’s plates.
Oh gotcha. Yeah I wasn’t really abreast of what was happening. My bad lol
It’s first batch of the module. I can’t really complain that they wouldn’t work. I am the guinea pig
I hope they’ll make a V2 but I highly doubt it. 🥲
Maybe it’s just copium, but the whole point of the module was to mod. If we can’t use “high end” stabs. Then what is the point of modding it
I agree but I also know that changing a mold isn’t that easy and if they want that tightness for the plate mounted stabilizers then they’ll have to make a second mold.. 😬
I really do hope they will though.
If they don’t, KBD will or some other company
KBD has a plate already but I’m not sure if theirs has the same problem as it was made for the old 60HE with only plate mounted stabilizer support.
KBD plates are just straight up wack when it came to user report holy
either fit too tight or way too loose
gahd
interesting
should try it
im curious, if it works then, mooni saved
:)
i want to try it too
do i need long pole stabs if i put gateron he jades in my wooting he module board?
If you plan to use stock keycaps, no.
If you plan to use 3rd party keycaps then if those keycaps are lose you might need the long poles but that is a big if.
Mooni saved for future generations 
But ok bro I’ll order it
If I don’t have to swap stabs I’m a happy man
Which softness?
I forget which one mine is lol
uhhhhhh
what they hab
try something between 30-50
40a if they hab
ok done
I also have to buy new PSU x.x
my computer been crashing on full defaults. very sad.
For my own knowledge, what’s the o rings for?
was gonna ask lol
#🪛│modding_faq message "Gummy O'ring Mounting"
i saw it but does it help with the feel or the noise
I just like it
kind of both
I tried it and prefered it so just kept it
and I would like to keep it in to module swap
this new "Small" is supposed to work with screw-in stabalizers
which would be sweet so I wouldn't have to change some to clip-ins and I can just keep the screw-ins
there's no real contact points with friction mounting
so it's a pretty even typing experience
which is nice
i understand the size part but what the hardness of the ring gonna do
I’d assume adjust frequency and feel of typing. The ring would be the contact point vs the screw on the stock Wooting
@fluid ravine when we gummy mount and want to remove the pcb what is the best way of removing it? it was a snug fit to push everything in. i have the 50a o ring
Correct.
Ayyyy I’m learning 💪
Turn upside down and shake or pull out two keys next to space bar and pull up
thanks boss
If you have a really snugged friction mount (mounting with plate foam for example), I'd recommend taking out 2 keys from each side like the windows key and right Ctrl and use your fingers to pull up.
But to make your life easier I wouldn't use any plate foam at all as you can pull it up from your space bar keycap
Slides right out without too much effort
Fyi silicone pad won't work with gummy mount
yeah i'm gonna try no plate foam and poly fill
right now i'm using the foam not the silicon to gummy mount
Should i holee mod with 205g0, holee mod with dialectric grease, or no holee mod with dialectric grease?
Either no holee with dielectric or holee with 205 would be my recommendation.
Which stabs do you have? Stock?
yeah
Dielectric is a lot easier and faster do to for a great result.
alr thanks!
Be sure to clean the pre applied lube off first, you can do so with a warm damp towel/microfiber cloth.
i was gonna soak it all and toothbrush
That works as well if you dry thoroughly dry everything after.
You don’t want anything wet on your PCB.
right
i waS gonna let them air dry while i lubed the new switches
do i have to clean the factory lube off my jades or am i good to just apply my own?
You can add your own 205.
Jades are prelubed with 205 so that’s no problem.
Mixing 205 with dielectric can be a problem though. 😂
I’m not sure if they’ll be dry by then but just check to make sure alright?
All good, just take your time!
And best of luck!
thanks!
oh also
Im gonna bag lube springs, is it a bad idea to do all 60 at once? I dont wanna ruin any of them.
That’s fine, not with 205 though.
yeaH i have gpl 105 i think
Yeah perfect!
Met a dude who had custom low profile switches with transperant keycaps on his framework laptop today in a programming course. I’m definitely gonna flex my new modded 60HE+ module with lubed ks-20s on him next time I see him Patrick Bateman style
During a meeting, a bunch of programmers tries to one up each other by comparing their keyboards.
🦑 Squid Game Parody: https://youtu.be/YBYI7E2PqWE
A parody of this scene:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cISYzA36-ZY
Captain Sinbad's Channel:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8XKyvQ5Ne_bvYbgv8LaIeg
HOW DO I GET A TECH JOB?
▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀...
Are their keyboards mechanical?
Yeah
Thats so cool
He had mechanical low profiles on his laptop
him tmrw
Exactly. 🤣
is there any he switch coming out in the moment. Should i wait or get the jades
KS-20U is out, kinda. It’s not widely available yet but it’s the improved KS-20/Lekker switch basically.
one question guys, I forgot to order the toolset and got only the lubs, for lubing the switches is there a way to easily open them without that tool?
You'll want the tools, whether from us or elsewhere.
how do i take the pcb out after o-ring mounting? 😅
Thing is I accidently chosen the wrong lube package 😂
But doesnt seem to be possible to swap anymore, and reordering only tools is another shipping cost
You asked if it was easy to open without tools - It is not. That's the answer I gave you.
If the order hasn't already shipped, reach out to us via the hub (and put the order on hold)
Access and edit your orders, connect your discord, and manage your Wooting account.
Dont wanna prolong the shipment its pick and pack
And ive sent email to contact us asking if its possible to modify existing package
But havent got an answer yet
Did you put the order on hold?
No
Cause if you didn't it may ship before we reach back out.
Its fine, I dont wanna delay the whole order because of the tools
Was only thinking if i could quickly swap
hey. I have just recieved the wooting module. I am using the tofu redux case. What are the golden screws for?
Optional standoffs.
60HE uses 5 mounting points. Two on the left edge, two on the right - and right next to spacebar.
Where would you suggest placing them? As i've got only 3 with the redux case
you can use the middle too if you like
just screw it in the the threaded holes on the case
the tofu's screws are great because it prevents you from over tightening
it bottoms out before then
Just the one on spacebar.
To match
Use just one? Like that?
if I am buying pc plate kit and L45 I won't need switch puller right?
Only if you need to pull them off later.

If it's any stronger than blue painter's tape, it's probably too much.
It has barely any stick.
Different purposes of tape.
painters tape
wdym
you can alao just buy keebtape
i personally use keebtape
it's not very sticky and pretty thick
more convenient
but yeah try getting blue painters tape
@bronze grove i’m not sure if you saw the discussion last night. The module PC plate is not compatible with staebies screw in stabs, and people suspect it won’t be compatible with most TX style stabs I just wanted to make this more known so that way other people didn’t waste money or time or resources. Trying to prevent a future headache.
thats so cool
Modding is Thock's domain.
ive had my wooting for a few months now and just left it with the factory lube, its now not as smooth and sounds worse, how hard is it to lube manually for a first timer?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN_-GYLTfpY
Not hard, but time consuming.
Always wondered how you can lubricate your lekker switches or grease your stabilizer wire. In this video, we will deep dive on different methods of lubing and some general tips and tricks. Using the Wooting 60HE.
Krytox GPL 205G0 and Molykote EM-50L lubricant:
https://region.wooting.store/products/lubrication-set-krytox-205g0-molykote-em-50l
:...
I spent... 4-5 hours on my 60HE the first time around. Had some Netflix going in the back.
thank you; 4-5 hours straight? damn idk if i have the patience for that lol
Can always do it in batches. Start with WASD, ctrl, spacebar and such. Then do the number row another day and so on.
yea i think i might just do it like that, i knew it took a while just didnt know it was that much as a WHILE lol
I am slow and methodical 😄
And I lubed everything quite a bit. There are some shortcuts.
Module PC plate isn’t any different from the standalone one you can buy. So the PC Plate works with TX AP Plate Mount, I just recently tried it with TX AP Clip Ins and it works fine as well. Only thing I have to test now is TX AP Screw Ins which will be here Thursday
But I know a few people have had issues with the tx ap screw ins which is why I’m testing them
And tbf I figured Staebies wouldn’t work, I probably would’ve recommend you not buy them if I knew you were beforehand
my module didnt work with my TX AP spacebar
but my delete key is fine
(clip in)
Which variant tho
Okay
Yeah my clip ins are fine
they must have some really inconsistent molding
I doubt it tbh

