Digimon V-Pet GO

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @humble storm (current: #68 - 38)

[vapid belfry]

Yeah 3rd piece hold the clacker inside the internal space. You’ll see a little box, you’ll insert the clacker into its holder then use an adhesive to attach it there

You can also use a 2mm metal dowel pin

It’ll be louder

I bought a pack of them off AliExpress for like $1-$2?

Somewhere around there

[tight coral]

And any recommendations for putting the MPU in? Let's see what you say, I don't know if I can put the cover on.

[tight coral]

I put a piece of toothpick, it's wood, but it makes a sound even though it's not very loud, the plastic got stuck and didn't move

[vapid belfry]

Ah, might have made the 3D printed clacker piece a little too big

Or the uneven surface of the hole and clacker (and low weight) makes it not move very well

[tight coral]

The back cover fits snugly; I think it presses the battery slightly. When I put it on, I must have damaged the screen a little because there's some light leakage around the edges in the black menus. However, it doesn't affect its functionality, and the Digimon looks perfect. I really like this case, even though the screen isn't perfectly centered. Thanks @vapid belfry

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #146 - 16)

[vapid belfry]

Yeah it seems on some TTGOs the screen is slightly off

You can reposition it a tiny bit by using something like a plastic wedging tool to lift up the screen and move it just a lil bit but you may get it off centered in other ways

I have my Lilygo board and my Tenstar boards; the Lilygo board screen fits the hole great but one of the Tenstar screens is way off

As far as the battery pushing too hard, I suppose you can shave down the walls that hold up the trenner for now. It’s 8mm, originally 6mm, but ig the walls should be brought back down

Tho actually wait yeah

The walls should prevent the trenner from pushing into the board altogether

[tight coral]

any solution?

[vapid belfry]

Ig you could make the back plate longer

I’m not sure

Your screen may just be like that now unfortunately. If you remove the back plate and it goes away, there is just too much pressure on the screen and it’s not permanently damaged

If it doesn’t go away then the liquid crystal leaked out

Alternatively

Shave down the base of the trenner

May need 80 grit sandpaper, or alternatively emery boards are around 120-180 grit

[tight coral]

Great, I'll try that, let's see if I can loosen everything up a bit. I hope my screen isn't broken T_T

[vapid belfry]

I hope not either and I’m sorry this happened. I haven’t heard any mention of this occurring yet from others

[tight coral]

The reset button also causes some problems, as being so small and 3D printed, it doesn't have a smooth finish and tends to get stuck. It wasn't working because the reset button was pressing against the Lilygo button.

[tight coral]

Don't worry, I think the work you do is wonderful and I love this case. If all else fails, I'll have to order another Lilygo or keep this one even though the screen is a little cracked; it's only noticeable in the menus, which are black.

[tight coral]

I took it apart and the screen problem is gone; something is applying pressure and I'm not sure what. I'm going to try cutting the trenner.

[tight coral]

Okay, I've taken everything apart and checked, and it's a problem with the casing. I don't know why it's putting pressure on the screen. The inner side bezels seem very tight, and it's difficult to fit the Lilygo, but it does fit; it just seems to be under pressure from the sides.

[vapid belfry]

I’m glad it wasn’t a cracked screen at least

Idk how many times I’ve opened up that space atp

I think atp we can say there is size variance between boards

And ig you may need to invest in emery boards or sand paper to make it fit

Emery board does work p well for small, quick tasks. I used one to sand off the keychain on my DM20, and they’re cheap

Studio Selection emery boards where both sides have a different grit is what I used; may be exclusive to Dollar General stores tho

[tight coral]

I don't have any sandpaper handy right now; I'll try to get some tomorrow and see if I can make it fit loosely.

[tight coral]

Okay, I've sorted out the screen issue. The frame still doesn't line up perfectly, but oh well. The problem is, I had to remove the spacer and now the battery moves around. Any suggestions? I could try securing it with electrical tape.

[vapid belfry]

Lift the screen, and pull it forward or backwards a bit. The screens are not perfectly located between every device unfortunately

Starting from the end opposite of the wires and stuff

And try to not pull at too steep of an angle

Or too quickly

You’re basically just peeling the tape off the back of the screen, lifting it, and relocating it

If the screen cables are too short, you just can’t pull it forward

[tight coral]

Can I lift it off the plate? I didn't know that, I thought it was glued on. Anyway, I'm afraid of breaking it; it's about two or three millimeters off to the right.

[vapid belfry]

Yeah it’s only secured with some black double sided tape, it’s probably heat resistant or double sided electrical tape

You could probably even remove it with the edge of a credit card

If you don’t rush it

[tight coral]

Ugh, now I have to take everything apart again T_T but I'll try to see if I can get it right. It's proving more complicated than I thought because of the sizes and how they fit together.

[vapid belfry]

I wish the screen placement was more consistent on the boards

I have like literally 6 Tenstars and used to have a Lilygo

The screen is not the same across some

[tight coral]

I thought all Lilygo were the same

[vapid belfry]

I’ve heard of size variations on the Lilygo but at least it’s not as bad as with some Tenstars

If you really don’t want to lift the screen, then black electrical tape could be fine. If it’s a couple mm.

But if you want it perfect, you’ll have to lift and move it

[tight coral]

Look, this is the mm variation

After I try move the screen

I don't know if my board is a tenstar

[vapid belfry]

If it says Lilygo at the top then it’s Lilygo, if it’s blank it’s Tenstar. Probably Lilygo and unless you want to keep adjusting it it looks fine to me

[vapid belfry]

I do apologize tho that this has gone so awkwardly or oddly for you. My hopes for this shell were that it would be a simple plug and play, solder all the parts to the board then organize the wires and prongs inside the shell

Unfortunately not all TTGOs are built the same, we are finding out more and more

[tight coral]

There's nothing like that, so it's probably be a tenstar.

[tight coral]

No worries, I'll try moving the screen and securing the battery so it doesn't move, let's see if I can get it right. These things are tricky, especially with so many variations. I hope my reports help improve things and assist others trying to build a Vpet GO.

[tight coral]

In the end, I decided not to touch the screen. It seems like a delicate matter, and I don't want to break anything. I'll leave everything as is and secure the battery with electrical tape to prevent it from moving, and that's it. I wish everything had turned out well, but no luck. Thanks anyway for this project and all the work you're doing; it's fascinating.

[vapid belfry]

Yeah I’ll have to send a picture when I get home but on one of the Tenstar boards the screen is off by like +6mm. It really surprised me. It fit my Lilygo perfect when I was making the shell. Sure, the shell is an old prototype but ik this version wasn’t that off. I ended up taking the Lilygo apart for the screen since I couldn’t be bothered to desolder or fix the broken off resistor legs, gonna use the LCD light backing for a backlight mod for a DM20/DMX.

[royal star]

Please we need this Shell kkkk

[vivid valley]

Has anyone tried a vibration motor instead of speakers?
I was looking into building my own, but I feel like haptics would be less annoying than beeps

[worthy sail]

i think its this shell https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5731052
andersan sent in in #1388015130771722340 message

youd probably need to make some adjustments

[wind mica]

This one I made was changed on the basis of this shell.