#Digimon V-Pet GO
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glue
I'm trying to avoid glue in case I need to adjust something on the board, ie connections, new battery, etc.
If I glue that toggle down, I won’t be able to pop up that trenner to access the rest of the board.
when the desing is complete is a solution, for test no
Sorry, I don't understand what you mean.
I think they mean that once the design is complete, glueing these parts together is a good way to assemble them and have them be sturdy
But they also agree that during the testing phase the glue is not a good idea
yes
Want to obsess over perfecting 3d printing?
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
how do we use the naca storage function?
Let me check first
Sorry
I'm trying to find older post
Someone ask the same question a while ago
It has a Wi-Fi account feature built in
I’m just gonna say no
I remember reading someone saying no
Sorry
The code itself for all virtual pet is on server site probably
This does not use any virtual pet code for this project so it can’t be recognized
that makes sense, how do we conect the device to the website?
The website creator
Or we copy held the virtual pets send copies of their own Digimon
And since everything’s on surfside, I think we have to ask the creator
I don’t know if it source code out there?
do you have a copy of dmcomm.h you can send? i need it to compile\
Thank you I’ll go over the full thing over the weekend. I’ve been at the job factory most of the day or on the bus. Hopefully the PLA filament I ordered arrives within a week.
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @rustic yarrow (current: #159 - 14)
My Angoramon evolved into an Otamamon. I don't think that's normal, right? And it also says that he's stage 3. 🤔
It fits if you turn it clockwise 180º. Would that be a problem if the MPU was flipped?
I’m not sure. I’ll try it tho soon
I did add more space for it on a recent STL I uploaded to Thingiverse a couple days ago.
Sorry I thought I sent that, I just woked up
I haven't checked the updated STL, but I printed the shell based on the original one from that post. At least for me, turning the MPU allowed it to fit even with the trenner.
Ah oki. I’ll try it when I get back home today. I gotta solder it to my Lilygo anyway. Before I was just wrapping wires around the pins to test it cuz I didn’t have the time to do it.
The upper parts came except for the main component that’s held up due to circumstances out of my control
Update the main component came in, but I didn’t get a notification so there are already at house
For update batteries didn’t arrive yet
And right now I’m knowing knows where they’re at
OK, I have formatted one of them
It works all the upper parts income
I do not know how to access Digimon.Bin
I will probably talk later on kind of too late
Will be fixed on the next update
I finally found the bin now I gotta figure out how to code in the new eggs and evolution lines
Causing significant damage to device
Trying my new printer.
is that the a1?
im thinking of getting a 3d printer aswell i was wondering if people here had any recommendations
It is
A1 or A1 mini
thanks
Is there a procedure to turn off Vpet Go using a combination of buttons?
OK, I got everything to work
Question how the sprites work do they need to be numbered for the same Digimon sprites for animations
Or do they need to be a straight animation line?
And how do the eggs work with their animations?
I have created multiple folders labeled through pinc8,9,10,11
In the rosters for the four new eggs are called
Land of sorrow
Ragnarok
For the first two
Dragons war
In jungle troopers
Dragon war is the first one I’m working on
After I finish this project I’m probably gonna redo the backplate for this device for the pegs. And probably redo the one with screw holes. Every time I turn it into an STL something goes wrong with the triangulation.
Ever so slightly but still noticeable
So yeah I probably did it wrong
so far im on the 3rd or so iteration of my mini shell, its looking promising im just testing printing the front in a different orientation.
btw does anyone have any suggestions about the lens? its a piece of flat clear plastic with one beveled edge but i dont know how to source this custom piece.
Something like the frame w/lens over the Digimon Mini is what you mean right? If so, you could probably find thin clear acrylic and create a frame that you can slide the acrylic in through the frame.
Yeah you can get 1mm thick acrylic off AliExpress but the other dimensions may not be as easy to find a sheet of. May have to cut the acrylic which might require tools
Also to make the frame easier to print, you could print it as 2 separate thin frames (with a space in the middle) that you combine together (adhesive and/or pegs), and put the acrylic inside of.
I still feel like I could make it better in time
But thank you
Now that we have a working model I may work on those grips again in my free time, they hang over too much on the front.
Yall ever raise a missing no?
Is that a cutting glitch?
No clue my kuwagamon dissapeared and during fights this is the sprite. Its name is unknown and its a free type. My guy poops like crazy
Wait is not a glitch
I just started tinkering with project
I’ve been using 48X 48 Sprite
And what animation file
Is it custom?
No just the regular soft ware
Oh
Ig I’m not getting to it today since that project took a while
It should be okay tho I mean what we have works atm. But I would like to get it finished eventually.
okay yall heres the zip for the current version of the shell, please take a look when you can and let me know if theres anything i need to change
i also might look into cnc services from pcbway for the lens
This also has a pendulum shaker, which that and the chubby battery i used, funnily enough resulted in this mini shell being about the same size as a regular dm 20th
Looks nice, I’ll do a print when I get my filament in after some test prints I gotta do.
And yeah PCBWay is a good quality option, but if you’re not planning to order a bunch at once the shipping and cost per part is killer atm. If you plan on making a bunch of these yourself then it’s great.
If its cool with rurounik i might honestly
Since the shells are our own designs it should be oki. Just can’t advertise it in most channels.
At the very least it could be shipped without the firmware which isn’t hard to flash
Etsy good? I can always link them to him for the soft ware
Etsy maybe. Idk how much of a cut Etsy takes but I wouldn’t do Mercari at least
Nah nobody is really on mercari anyway lol
Mercari also doesn’t like you linking to outside sources
Yeah true
I did make a listing to advertise and prepare people for releases but that was the drdo WifiCOM pet so I’m probably gonna take it down atp. Too restrictive of a platform
Im also thinking about making an smt version with demon sprites. I think that might be a cool edition of the software
Computer blue screened when I got up from bed for a bit, glad I have all the files on an SD Card
I usually work from my google drive on the mirrored desk top folder so i can work from a few different devices. One of which is windows so i always gotta be crash ready
What cost the blue screen?
This is basically the coolest thing ever, you guys are amazing! Now to try and come up with a way I can contribute.
Well I couldn’t sleep so guess what got completed
Final time I’m changing the grip ridges also I had them too curved on the ends, and they also extended up the faces too far
The Pendulum’s grip ridges only extend a tiny bit beyond the edge
Oh and I added slopes to the back plate
Turning them into STLs makes weird looking edges but running it through a slicer and placing the backplate upside down seems to remove the issue almost entirely
I did cut the shell in half since I felt confident I could do it after my recent project
Well not entirely in half but
Yk what I mean
I might rework the peg backplate but rn it kinda reminds me of a skull
I'm using an early 4MB version of the T-Display, but I changed the flash to 16MB and it works fine for me.
I'm not sure about the layout of the current T-Display, but I placed the buzzer under the screen to hide it.
As for the MPU, I'm using this module since it takes up less space.
Originally it uses a 25mm piezo but this is a great option imo. And yeah it's Positive to Pin 26 and Neutral to GND still. Thanks for linking the MPU also.
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @digital tartan (current: #23 - 102)
There's a 25mm depression in the back plates I've made for the 25mm Piezo but if no speaker sits there it's not gonna cause problems.
I wonder how this will affect the sound? Honstly i recommend putting the speaker with the contacts facing down to avoid having the solder dig into the back of the screen plus using screen itself as the resonator.
I can also make a jig to help with pressure distribution on the screen
@thick jasper has leveled up! (3 ➜ 4)
Stick it to the rear cover for a louder sound.
Yeah the back plate is the best resonator. also, how did you get the shell to look the clean??
Supposed to get my filament tomorrow, prob won’t have time to make anything tho like I want to until the weekend
Nice add, thanks
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @digital tartan (current: #23 - 103)
That print, WOW
Is it already on Thingverse?
Gonna print it right now
The outer shell is UV, so it's relatively smooth.
Yeah it’s on my Thingiverse at the very end. Lmk how it goes
The last and final thing I will do to the shell atp is fix any dimensional issues and I may add something to connect the front and back better
I think like the little walls that the DIM Card shell had to snap the shell together would be good
But I’d have to make the holes they slide into slightly wider for filament printing if they have to be really thin, it’s hard to get really low tolerance connection points with filament.
Or I got a setting somewhere not set right.
Could be layer height
finally got all my parts from aliexpress
im gonna ask a friend to 3d print a shell for me
do yall recommend using drdos shell or one of the ones yall made
The one that @vapid belfry made is very well made. I would recommend that one because she designed it specifically for this project. It has space for all the different parts, unlike the other DMC styled case.
Either mine or migbello’s it has more space
where can i fnd your thingiverse?
You can search my name on Thingiverse I use the same username on there
Or search for Thingiverse links in the chat
Ill upload to thingiverse tonight
Mine is still a work in progress but i would love some feed back.
I got my filament today but still at work. I’ll print it at some point this week
4:47AM CST5/18/2026New Design Changes:2 untested back plates for a different body shell (Body Back files)New untested body shell (Body Front file)A Pendulum-style shell for the ESP32 Lilygo/Tenstar TTGO T-Display. You will need the firmware files from the V-Pet GO project in Digitama Hatchery made by Rurounik. Currently still somewhat of a WIP b...
If you wanna gamble with that second design I added it still hasn’t been tested. Idk how sturdy those back plate pegs are if you wanna go that route
But probably not very sturdy at all on their own
I will probably add extra supports for it that snap to the front body shell.
I think i saw other people talking about this glitch but my loogamon wont gain more exp regardless of fights
Theyve been stuck at 10/800 for 8 fights now. Both quest and colosseum
Stage III max lvl = 4
Like Digimon X
Gonna add MAX to it
Id did not fit well with my printer
And if i turn it down, support will waste more fillament than the back cover
But i can try another day
I’m doing a print real quick with mine. I’ll lyk how it goes
I also saw 11 non-manifold edges in the slicer. Didn’t think I had left any behind
But I’ll check it out
I fixed all the non-manifolds
It was an entire face inside a wall somehow
Must have accidentally selected it
This is as far as my supports extend when I slice it in creality print.
Only uses .55g for me
After fixing the non-manifolds. I'll check the older version
Yeah idk what’s up
Even before fixing non-manifolds it doesn’t put many supports on the model
Oki I really like these grip ridges
This one should have 0 non-manifolds. Alos it has grooves for some back plate supports so lmk how that goes.
I’ve done my best atp. Looks like it could be widened near the edges specifically but otherwise it’s as good/close as it can get now.
I gtg to bed now tho lmk if you encounter any problems. I had some issues with this print tbh but it was my own fault, new filament different settings, bumped it, stopped it mid print to peel off some DIM Cards which changed the offset a little, etc
Also I still have issues with supports sticking too much
Kinda over
Need to figure that out
uploaded the files to my thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7356139
This is a shell for the custom Digimon project by Rurounik and dr.do
Just wondering, did you program this using C or one of the fancy new languages?
i tried to flash the bin onto the t display but it wont boot
ive tried looking online and apparently i didnt put it into boot mode
i cannot find the boot button 😭
ive been on this for 2 hours pls give someone help me figure this out
Try reflashing it again. Have you tried resetting the serial monitor?
nvm i got it working
i was flashing it at 0x1000
tried setting it to 0x0000 and it works
FINALLY
After fighting with customs for 2 months, the chip finally arrived and I was able to put mine together
This would technically be my first vpet
Graduation
I have all the parts for mine, and I need the free printed shell in the materials
Do you have a 3d printer or have access to one in a public library? You can use any of the shell we designed here
No
is StJocelyns shell the only one thats got enough space for the accelerometer and speaker?
Mine also has room it just doesn't have an outlined slot for it
Probably gonna do that tonight so it has better sound
I’m finna do a quick test print for the supports I added to the back plate + I think I know how to fix my supports sticking so badly. Top Z distance for the supports was like 0
Does the digimon's growth continue even with the device turned off?
No
Every time I turn it on no time pass
If you’re talking about sleep well I think so
shit, I don't have a battery so when I unplug it it turns off
It will take me a week to have a child haha
THanks will print in a minute
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #171 - 13)
Thanks for sharing this amazing work.
Will print in Blue
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thick jasper (current: #602 - 2)
100% C++
Congratulations and i'm honored
You can find space in every iteration of the shell, but his make the job so much easier
Finally ordered a 3-D printersa
I’m glad that it’s convenient I kinda wasn’t sure actually if it would all fit well.
(I am a her big shocker ik I’m p tomboyish partially cuz I’m from the South. It’s all good btw dw)
Actually all 4 of my sisters are kinda like that tbh it’s kinda just the hick hillbilly genes
Also I am probably gonna make more projects over time
Like I wanna make more COM shells eventually
I’m thinking of just working on learning some C/C++ tbh so I can make an e-paper Digimon device
Just something that lets you count battles and other stuff
Maybe run an ACOM/DCOM/WifiCOM/etc
But yeah I have a counter app and stuff on my phone but idk. Kinda like having special peripherals for things.
I’m gonna go to bed and hope my 3D printer doesn’t explode
lol I'm doing some Shell print right now, hope it goes alright
Have a good night mate
im printing a new copy in blue with the slot for a speaker
im having a similar issues im trying to lower the infill see if that helps\
btw @thin sail on the thingiverse entry how do you want me to link to you for proper credit and soft download?
I set my layer height to 0.1 and doubled the supports’ Top Z distance I think it will probably help a bit but idk. Was gonna go to bed but now it says 30 minutes until complete
Speed to 150 and 200C heat after the nozzle laid down some of the shell of the body
Looks like p much all that’s left for it to make is the lower part of the shell
So it’s got about 4mm of shell left to print cuz I made the holes go like 4mm into the peg/screw supports
And I can kinda see them forming atm
Supports on the back plates have already separated atp
Hopefully they came out well
But yeah just gotta make sure they don’t fly off the build plate and into the unfinished main body
And a support just snapped off amazing
Maybe like .16 or so Top Z distance
You can link to this topic, would be great
Supports came off easier this time but yeah
Top Z distance prob needs to be a tiny bit lower
same problem here.. t
Tbh I’m planning on sanding these things down and doing the whole process of painting it
So at the end it won’t matter too much appearance wise
The prong alignment hole and peg line up with the v-pet thankfully at least
Don’t have to change that
since im already thinking about using pcbway i think im gonna have them print a few shells since they are pretty good about finishes
so if that works ill let yall know. might make a few blank units and sell them so people can load the software themselves
If you mean my unit I’d wait a couple days or so. I can’t get around to fixing it atm, I don’t have the time rn
If you mean your unit it’s definitely a good idea
yeah im feeling pretty good about these test prints but without the lenses they look really bland
There’s just a few minor things wrong with mine still though yeah. Need to change the peg diameter and USB C size style. Idk how I manage to be .1mm off but I am
Yeah likewise without the frame, buttons, and no sanding mine looks p bad
did you ever use my model for the board to check tolerances? its made my life pretty easy. also depending on your nozzle size i would use half the diameter for tolerances. mine is 0.4mm so 0.2mm tolerance
But e paper will be black and white. What is the intention? Long battery life ?
I just think it’s neat icl
I haven’t been able to print anything else yet unfortunately
an e-paper vpet would be very cool
It's fkn nice
But it did not close
beautiful! whats keeping it from closing do i need more room for the battery?
@thin sail how did you display the digimon sprites in this project
if i want to add custom digimon i saw the text file you sent as instructions
but i didnt get how to actually get the sprites and everything set up
Every penc folder is the structure for a version.
penc1 = Nature Spirites
Inside goes the digimon folder number.
00 = Egg(Egg sprite)
01 = baby 1 , 12 sprites, cutin and the data txt
i dont understand how to insert it into the bin file
like once i have the digimon.bin how do i get it to work with the main bin file
I sent the scripts a couple of posts ago(a lot maybe?)
Hello, how do I create an egg?
@fringe jackal has leveled up! (15 ➜ 16)
started working on the cycle shell
I hope that these next couple adjustments are the last I’ll have to do on this shell
It wasn’t that bad but it’s really just dragged on.
I started a different project just to like take a break from this one, took me an hour and it was fun.
all 3 egg png in the same folder
How do you upload a digimon to the Nacastorage? 
I dont know too much about this but you have to go to https://new.battle.nacatech.es/ instead of the old site and turn on fan devices in the settings
Website that allows users to battle online with their Digimon V-Pets. Supporting A-Coms and WiFiComs!
Oh I didn't know you had to activate it in options, thanks 
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thick jasper (current: #494 - 3)
Although I don't know why it doesn't let me create a room and generate an ID, do I have to configure something about the Wi-Fi?
Did you set up the wifi on the dm go?
For now until I can fix the last few issues with the shell, you’ll have to shave some parts of the shell if they don’t fit
If you don’t wanna wait that is. I would recommend waiting cuz I kinda wanted to increase the little nubs on the frame in size to make them stand out more like they do on the pendulum.
And then that’s p much it
Like the USB C hole and frame nubs I believe is all that’s left
Ah yeah the back plate supports, almost forgot. That’s easy tho
rede.txt and you type in your network SSID and Password separately.
On different lines
And then where do I leave the file or line of text? I mean, where do I place it?
After you type your SSID and Pass in rede.txt, rede.txt goes on the root of your flash memory when in LittleFS
Remember to press upload when ur done. Cant tell u how long it took me to figure that one out lol
Honestly yall im thinking of making a tutorial doc to keep all this info easy to access. Would that be good?
The same thing happened to me but with the save changes button hahaha
It already worked thanks for the help
yes definitely
Ill get on it tonight
Btw yall random observation but a joycon battery is the same footprint as the esp32 board. Do with that what you will lol
I have the pinouts written in a .txt file if you need it
#1494144833168867378 message right here
I still got the one you sent me and tge wiring diagram we made
Yall i feel so dumb i coulda done this from the beginning
Oh, yeah, empty frame with no lens
I feel a dang fool 😔
I just wasn’t sure if that’s what you wanted when you mentioned the clear lens over the display
yeah for sure thats the goal but like, this is easier for like 90% of people
I was using it as screen protector lol
Did you change it on thingverse already?
Wanna print in purple(Snes vibe)
I think it's support cause i print upside down to maintain it flat
Will print sideways
How do you print yours?
i print the front with the front up so the supports are inside,
and the back with the back down so there are no need for anywupports on that part. everything else is designed to print flat
you gotta build everything onto the mid plate first and click on the prong caddy
Best setting i found so far
my ender 3 could never lol
i did have issues using tree supports so i tried a standard straight support and the clean up was waaaay easier
If i try to just print, it will be messy
oof, what kind of supports can you do? i had one that was just squares. i also set the supports to a 10 % infill
Normal, Tree, and a variation of tree and normal, also there's a bunch of Tree sub settings
Slim
Strong
Hibrid
Organic
For something like this, you'd probably want normal, snug if it's an option, and to turn off external brims
Oh, slim.
Try Normal, slim, and try to find brims and turn external support brims off.
It looks like your piece has massive brims on as well, and you can probably turn those off as well
Thank you
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #117 - 21)
I’m finding that 200C, .12mm layer height, support Top Z to 2.0mm, and speed of 120mm/s seems to work well for my builds now.
Thank you
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @verbal siren (current: #12 - 155)
Yep
i speak Spanish so Portuguese is adjacent enough that i can kinda read it lol
WAAAAAAAAAAAY Better, Thanks
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @verbal siren (current: #12 - 156)
It's also a preference thing, but if you don't mind the texture of your build plate being on the front of your device (and your first layers look good). I just print this sort of thing face down
I need to get a slim plate, the one that comes with Bambu Lab is not ideal and i don't like it
I'm quite fond of these PEI plates that impart holographic designs on your first layer.
How tf do my puter be running Blender, my Surface Pro 4 is powered by and be rendering models solely with hopes and dreams
This is why all my models stay on the SD Card and backups are on my private discord server cuz I would die if I lost the .blend files.
awesome
Yeah I haven’t really been able to get my model to print well in any other orientation, but I got a 220 grit sanding block + a bunch of sanding sponges and the devices I make will inevitably be painted with filler, primer, and paint made for plastics
Matte clear coat at the end cuz gloss is a scratch magnet
All the issues with the backplates should be fixed now
No more jagged messed up edges
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7351510
Oki this is it, only minor changes for bad dimensions will be made in the future (most likely, I say that in case a component would be added).
3:44PM CST5/23/2026New (likely) Final Design Changes:2 untested back plates for a different body shellNew untested body shellA Pendulum-style shell for the ESP32 Lilygo/Tenstar TTGO T-Display. You will need the firmware files from the V-Pet GO project in Digitama Hatchery made by Rurounik. Currently still somewhat of a WIP but nearing the end of...
The back plates are 7MB cuz it seemed like subdividing the model was the only way to fix the edges. So it’s probably just cuz it has so many damn triangles.
At least in the future ik how to avoid making so many massive mistakes, I learned a lot over the course of making this
@humble storm you can now make final, permanent changes for your battery switch. If you want you could post it to Thingiverse and reference my model or link your file to me
here the doc im working on https://docs.google.com/document/d/1M5XbdZ3Iaxt2mp7OfAmFTNT-hXhR44Gh9ulvFv6ooAs/edit?usp=sharing
Digimon V-Pet Go Comprehensive instructions Digimon gameplay by Bandai Software by Rurounik Document by Migbello About Originally based on the expanded vpet project from Dr.Do, the project's software is built from scratch by Rurounik in C++. This project is hosted on the Digitama Hatchery Disc...
Cool
While I don’t have any batteries atm for it, I’ll be sure to provide tutorial images for my specific shell with the next one I print.
I’ll probably throw them on my Thingiverse
awasome. when you create the build instructions lmk and ill add them to the doc
can some one post a screen shot of the main screen? preferably with the call icon but its fine if not
I don’t atm unfortunately
Mine is deconstructed atm still
It’s in a box somewhere with a bunch of other projects. I’ll fish it out in the morning tho since I gotta rebuild it anyway
that doc is awesome! i just gotta get parts and find a place to print a shell nearby. i REALLY wanna make one of these, they look so freaking cool
still looking for an active vpet project to scratch my custom roster itch, i'd love to commission someone to deal with the fiddly bits
Recently Rurounik dropped the files to make them but i really need to nail the steps down to add them to the doc
This things are necessaries, thanks
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thick jasper (current: #411 - 4)
how do i switch to the digimon in my backups
Menu > Digimon > Backup
ye but how do i switch to my backed up one
when i tried to switch to it i just overrid the backup
Backup > Select Slot > Change
I am trying to make a new egg but it did not really work.
I created a new folder. In that folder I created folders 00-05.
In 00, I used the digitama script to convert three individual digitama sprites into the three egg.bin files.
In the other folders, I use the multisprits and cutin scripts to get the bin files for each and created the digimon.txt files with the necessary information.
LittleFS said I don't have enough memory so I just deleted penc2 and uploaded my folder.
When I try to hatch a new egg neither penc2 nor my new egg show up.
Is there any restrictions for sprite sizes and stuff?
I got my sprites from the DMC/PenC sprites website so they should all be 48x48 while the cut-ins have been downloaded from DigitamaHatchery so they are 64x32
how do i get my digimon to sleep? i think hes tired but he will not go to sleep
nvm he needed healing
Did you confirm the sizes because i think some of those sprites are scaled up?
The digimon sprites should be 48x48. The eggs are 16x16 while the cut-ins are 64x32.
I checked the scripts and they all use img.resize so I think that should not be an issue.
the egg creation feature is new to all of us so there's only one guy to answer your questions: @thin sail
Are there different sized mpu6050 boards? Mine fits no problem, but I had to rotate it.
it's either the battery or the mpu6050
No. I kept the trenner in place.
which shell are you using?
the drdo shell
Ah. That's the problem.
well shit
yeah i dont think the dr do shell was designed with an mpu in mind
#1494144833168867378 message
Rurounik was able to fit the mpu6050 in that shell, but he cut half the trenner off. I think there's a pic of what he did.
The photos
#1494144833168867378 message
that makes more sense
let me try again
it closed
awesome, thank you very much
now i have a final question, where can i find the updated firmware
is it this one?
Latest version I have is 0.71a
i linked it in the doc but it should be #1494144833168867378 message
awesome, thank you very much
it's been a while since i last checked this project, i'm assembling a unit for a friend
i feel that. i just made the doc last night to help with getting everything built and set up. lmk if it helps! #1494144833168867378 message
@thick jasper has leveled up! (4 ➜ 5)
Lol. I was struggling to find the actual download too. Even searching .71a gave me nothing.
its cuz the version number isnt in the message text only the file name
trust me i tried that too lol i had to manually scroll through everything to find the links
Yeah, I figured it didn't apply to uploaded file names. Same. lol.
unit gets a bit warm, is this normal? should i worry?
where is it getting warm? the screen, chip or battery?
screen
thats fine, its that the backlight is at full blast. you can lower the brightness in the settings
once we figure out how to create eggs we should find a way to host and share them. it would be cool to have a community of custom eggs floating around. actually @shadow ibex custom eggs wouldnt function with the nacastorage correct?
as of now, it would not be possible
it's a tad difficult to create eggs in naca, so i'd have to "approve" the egg
is there a process for submitting eggs? that would be cool if we had naca compatible eggs
just ping me here
i'll try to improve the system later on, since i wanna make nacapet compatible with nacastorage
and it also supports custom eggs
I am creating 🥚
sick! what would you need specifically for the submission?
youre making your own vpet device?
yeah
but it's currently a bit abandoned
due to my thesis and my day job, i had to pause a lot of my projects
i was in the middle of desgning the pcb for the device
I can vouch I was watching a project intensely
is the board based on a micro controller? you could use one of the esp32 or rp2040 boards
esp32s3
240x240 display
mpu6050 accelerometer for counting steps
i even had my own custom Nightmare soldiers roster ready for testing
please link the project i would love to beta test this thing!
i even wanted to add street-pass like communication to the device
it's something i'm actually working on for my thesis
which is also made for the ESP32
unit two assembled
and final question
is there a way to turn these off before shipping?
Connect to the espconnect app then disconnect. The divice wont turn on until the reset button is pressed
You could drill a pin hole for the button
Be sure to cover the a and b buttons so they dont wake during ship
i have the perfect box for this
I’m still trying to create a pendulum progress
I have managed to add an extra egg to the device. The system checks for penc{number} folders. I changed the main folder to penc5 and it did show up in the egg selection screen. Also, the scripts do resize the images so using the original 48x48 sprites is not ideal.
The only thing I got currently
how do i update without losing my digimon
Also, the digitama script does not take file inputs. It takes all .png files in the folder it is in. To use it, have the script and the three egg sprites in a separate folder and run the script without arguments. It should give you three .bin files that correspond to the three sprites. I changed the .bin names to egg_1.bin, egg_2.bin, egg_3.bin and it worked.
All sprites are from Pendulum Color resolution
Anyway, @thick jasper if you want me to add an egg, remember you have to go through me to approve it
You need to cut the divider
Almost complete, but it's a long way away from 100%
When charging?
It's normal
You need just 3 images rename it to egg_1.bin to egg_3.bin
folder 00
ex: penc5/00/bin
You just need to check the existing files and copy the structure
Can I have non penc eggs? Can I add a DMC1 or DMXC?
I mean, can I name the folder as DMXC? I know I could just call it penc{number} and it would show up
It's already in code, so yes
dmc1 to dmc5 are coded
So, it checks for specific folder names?
folder name
Just respect name structure and you are fine
You can add any Digimon sprite, stats, name and cutin
For the attack sprite id, are you using the same id's as the penc? @thin sail
Also, any possibility for having level as an evolution requirement?
@violet badge what would have to be changed to make the shell printable with resin by chance? Is it a lack of drain holes for the resin?
@shadow ibex
Sorry to the person I accidentally pinged
Clumsy fingers
Ah oki ic
Yeah my Ender 3 gives me a headache sometimes
But that’s probably cuz I don’t know as much still
Resin printers suck for geometrical shapes
And they're stinky lol
after how many hours do my digimon wake up
I tried with the program. It actually doesn’t work.
I have been trying for a while
I tried all the sprites they do not workA
where can i get the sprites for the pendulum colour?
Browse and filter Digimon sprites
nice! has anyone made a metal empire egg yet?
there you can get all the pendulums up to ZERO
yep
not yet
But I didn’t have to make this from scratch
Im testing everything to add the steps to the doc, but i dont see how to make the egg bins
Do i just rename the pngs? Or use the cutin py
This file is from rurounik
Thank him for creating it
okay now i just need cut ins for metal empire and to make their .txt files
but im understanding things more
Wait, you’re working on metal empire too
I have the text files for the baby one and two if you want them
All of them wake up on their own at 7:00 am. You can adjust the clock if you want them to wake up sooner.
how long does each evolution stage take
i think rurounik sent it somewhere here but i cant find it
It's based off the PenC, so I think it's the same as the actual devices.
https://humulos.com/digimon/penc/manual/
Holy shit
Will u be releasing it online?
how do i access my digimon.bin file
i want to update to a newer version since im still on 0.6
nvm got it working in espconnect
Im using DMX timers
Ah, that's right. You did mention that somewhere. PenC rosters with DMX timers.
In which case, these are the evolution timers. It looks like it's the same, except for stage 6 has Ultimate to Super Ultimate in 48 hours.
Ill work on the cycle shell some more this week. Rn im focusing on the doc
Take your time. Would love to see the end result!
Hey, I finally modified the device. There’s a archived that contains old pendulum colors. It’s in text.
Why device has 16 GB of memory and the rest is unknown storage last time I checked
in the sprite size has to be 16 x 16
I am looking into getting a larger memory capacity, a model for future testing
Hope before I go, this is the filing you need to alter it a text file
torneio_cache
I’ve been up for way too long
It would be really great to be able to get the 3 missing beasts from Shambala, with some secret condition in stage V or by completing the quests
I’ve been messing with the device. It doesn’t have enough memory.
does the evolution clock still continue while the digimon is asleep?
correct me if im wrong but during normal sleep the evo timer continues. it only stops during deep sleep. ive had a digimon evo over night
do they go back to sleep or should i just put em in deep sleep whenever i go to bed
i dont want to wake up with 50 care mistakes
😭
they just continue sleeping untill the wake time from my knowledge
honestly this device is super forgiving, you dont need to worry too much about care mistakes. its not like the dm 20th where they poop and get sick all the time
it was the major draw back of that device thats why i usually recomend the dmx
does anyone know where i can get the cut ins for MEmC i still need those to finish up the sprites for the egg
Yes, it was a guy who was working on the project a while ago. He stopped at middle Empire. The upper cuttings are done though.
do you have a link to that project?
i would rather not have to make them my self lol but i will if i have to
i could grab the b/w cutins and colouriz them
I forgot about this so idk if you still need it, and while not necessarily a screenshot, I did my best to get a clear picture @thick jasper . icl idk how to cast this thing to a computer screen.
If you are going to cast it using a computer, I can provide my code. I will check it when I get home after work.
Does anyone have a Shishimamon or any digimon with a vaccine or data Stage V for a jogress? I have a Darumamon
Wait, how do you connect to the Internet with these?
not internet, just usb cable
did you set up the rede.txt
i think they mean for the jogress request atomG2 made
Yes, but it didn’t work
its kinda tricky at first. i outlined it in the doc, you need to replace the text in the rede.txt file with your ssid and password. you then need to go to ESPConnect and upload it to the root of the device littlefs. make sure to save the changes to apply the changes. (btw. it will require you to create a back up before you save
you know it worked when it says digital gate open or naca server up when using the online features
Thank you, I’ve never been able to get the ESP32 viewer to work. Maybe I have the baud rate wrong or something.
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @long ledge (current: #54 - 48)
I do not know where my home router is so
I think it is not necessary, just by entering the name of the Wi-Fi network you are done
yeah ssid is just the name of the wifi. it is case sensitive so keep that in mind
They do not have all sprites, just 4 and Cutin
Now you know why it takes so long to add features
Not Deep Sleep though
Right you are
Yes, there's a topic with all cutin for MeM and ViB
Thank you so much..
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @long ledge (current: #54 - 49)
And if they are completed with their 12 sprites could they be playable?

I need to rework the WiFi setup but i can't work right now, so it will take some time
Just the name it shows when you search for WiFi with your phone.
That's your SSID
Yes, i can add any Digimon
My code is written in a way i can add as many as i like
A Digitama can have as much as i like(Memory Space limit)
I understand, I will try to see if I can complete them in the following days
Sure, thanks.
I did add TyrantKabuterimon to Nature Sprits as a Jogres
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @dusky ravine (current: #497 - 3)
this is a big request but do you have the attack sprites and their numbers? i want to make a chart so its easier to choose which attack sprite to use
They are all from Pendulum Color
I had forgotten that haha, I should try to get it now that a new cycle is starting
If you dump or download the sprites from modding_vpets you have all sprites
are they in a particular order? i just want to know which sprites corrisponsds to which number
i forgot if they are numbered -1 or +1 from Pendulum Color numbers
Cause the first sprite is not an attack
They are -1 as you can see
@thin sail has leveled up! (11 ➜ 12)
I tried a Tenstar in a shell I had printed and it didn’t fit width-wise, I’ll have to fix this real quick cuz the alternative is requiring people to sand or shave off some of the inner walls/guides that hold the board
Yep.
I did sand but it fit ok and the shell is fantastic.
Still trying to print it horizontally cause my printer have almost perfect lines that way
I opened the board area like .1mm for now
It’s on the Thingiverse now at least
The new back plate is better imo
Dam it's printing 50% now
50% more filament or what?
printing
Im printing the old model right now lol
Ah oki
Support broke at 95%
I'm so happy right now
what are the legal names for eggs?
In universe, they’re called DigiTama
Tama translates to egg in English
So it’s still called Digi egg
Fun fact, Tamagotchi’s name comes from egg in clock
I had a question about the evo timers. My child stage Palmon has stayed on the stage for over 46 hours now. Evo conditions are met for Togemon, but no evolution has happened yet. Device has stayed on the entire time without deep sleep, except for when I unplugged it to move it (currently doesn't have a battery yet). Does adjusting the clock to set the Digimon to sleep earlier/later effect their evolution timer?
It shouldn't be
I may consifer adding a evo timer, but I dunno if everyone is OK with it
Really nice, glad you like it
It would be very useful, especially for those of us who do not have a battery and have to disconnect it
Lol i ment for the soft ware, like penc1 penc2 dmc1 etc
Sorry to disturb
But will it be a shell or a case?
Either way, it’s freaking cool regardless and long overdue for a PenCycle/Neo body mod
my tentomon lost a battle and i got a care mistake?
is that supposed to happen
hes well fed, well rested, and everything
i took good care of my boy i wanted him to level up
Yeah, I edit inside the cash file
This file contains all of the evolutions in files of names.
You had to alter it by adding in on a file name, adding a/it in a number
Unfortunately, I can’t edit the memory size partitions on the device. I have a 16 GB model with enough memory for more sprites but cannot be altered. I have 7 GB remaining on the device.
In this look listed as unused flash memory
also deleted one of the eggs from the device and it crashed immediately
Thank you
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @tight coral (current: #607 - 2)
16mb, GB is gigabyte
No it should not get a care mistake, but if you lost and get injured and did not heal it in about 10 minutes, you will get a CM
Sorry about that
I also tried deleting one the eggs my second attempt basically cost of the bike to be permanently locked out, so I can’t upload anything into it about wiping it
This is the tournament Cache.
It is generated every time you add a new Digitama, it should cache the new Digimons to the Tournament
Actually, the plural of Digimon is k̶̓̆o̶͐̅n̸̊͘g̸̿͘k̸̂̊u̸̓̅n̸̈́̑n̵͗͝k̸̃͑g̷̒̈́k̵̇͠ő̵͓.
Oh no need to be sorry, just a info.
The firmware is limited to 8mb for now, cause every time i need to test something it will take twice the time if i choose 16MB
And you can also buy a 32mb chip and swap if you want to, but it's not needed... 8MB have space for about 200 Digimon and 2MB is for OS, so 6MB.
We still have 8MB of space to add new Digimon and features.
I'm gettin better as time goes, so it wont take to much until i come back to the project
Yeah, but my test device has officially stopped working at this point
Oh sorry to know
It still works. It’s just I cannot load any backups on the repair the damage.
could it be related to it battling while tired?
i tried to heal him but he didnt need healing
Nop.
But if you dont turn the light off it will get a CM after 10 minutes
I do need to write a Manual, but man, i got a burnout and i'm still recovering
all good
thats probably what happened then
do they go to sleep around 8 pm
Yep.
I'm thinking of using DMXs timers, they are way better than Pendulum Color
16 is the maximum level for the device.
I brought four these
I can’t mess up on the other 3 for testing
For me, learning how to mess with the device over the course of a couple nights is this.
Delete any eggs cause the device that permanently lockout and can’t be written to or read form from computer altering files can cause glitches adding a new eggs is difficult
In conclusion, a fun challenge
10
Is it normal that there is no possible evolution for Pteromon that meets the conditions for Galemon? (sorry for the poor quality lol)
Winrate should be 70%+
Dam I'll take a look
Did you update to the Latest Firmware?
I think i fixed some evo conditions
You are using an old version, please, update. (make a backup of your Digimon before update)
The frame is turning out better than I have been able to reproduce so far damn
But it fits the vision I had for it
This must be the old shell also, the ridges extend up the face. Still nice tho
I do apologize for so many different versions also
I was still really inexperienced with it all and I couldn’t figure certain things out for a while.
It is, but the frame is V3.
I did my homework lol.
If i print horizontally, the quality is outstanding.
I just needed to find a good support config
Ah oki. Is the sound quality oki btw or do you think it’s better with the holes in the back plate?
Btw you don’t even wanna see the blender folder I used for this model. It’s got like 60+ versions/backups
Cuz I was scared of losing progress or not being able to go back to before I made a big change
lol me when i make 1 line code change. And i'm not joking.
this is the most new version?
I may look into heat inserts btw
For the threads
They resist being pulled on more and less likely to strip out than a plastic screw hole
Found some 1.5mm x 4mm heat inserts and those would probably fit best
Heat inserts on the body only would be fine, the back plate doesn’t really need threads
May go 1.4mm if 1.5mm is too wide. Bare minimum is 3mm length tho
Oh god, you guys need version control, lol
Thanks i hadn't seen it
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #113 - 22)
Should be better now in regards to the shell. It’s done atp, unless someone comes forth with any dimensional inaccuracies. But I and a few others have printed and tested it a few times now. Again apologies for so many different versions, it has been quite a process learning all these skills from nothing.
I didn’t know anything about blender a month ago
Or how to operate a 3D printer 2-3 weeks ago
I know some stuff already about sanding and painting, I’ve had to do that for some things in the past
Oh no, sorry, I didn't mean to criticise, I just meant that if you use some version control system like git you could save yourself a lot of space since version control saves previous revisions of files as a series of transforms that can be applied to the most recent version
No it’s all good, ic yeah that’s part of why I made a Thingiverse. Easier to make an update and make it accessible
But yeah I host the .blend files on my computer tho cuz trying to edit an STL is harder in blender than editing the original model.
for sure, always good to keep the source files
how do i connect my device to w0rld
im trying to use wifi com and got my api key all set up
but how do i actually connect my device and stuff
nvm i just no realized no w0rld support yet mb
I'd like to ask if it's normal that after I plugged in the battery, I tried charging it using my computer, but the charging icon didn't seem to appear?
for me it didnt appear but once i disconnected it, it was charged
damn i thought they went to bed at 8 pm
now i know that its 7 pm
2 care mistakes no more kabuterimon
do we have any change notes for 0.72, that way i can add them to the doc
I'll start o take notes, but it's related to some evolutions, better XAI collors
Was the last time i touched my code
Beforte the burnout.
Today i did some progress. I finished all the animations, sprites and cuttin for Metal Empire, jus evo condittions are missing
oh man im working on a MEmC egg too and i also need to work on the digimon.txt files
what name are you giving the egg? penc5?
Currently working DMC
Yep
If you guys manage to get the cutin i can add all DMCs
which dmc eggs do you need cutins for?
also the project only supports penc0-7 and dmc1-5 as the egg names correct?
I have two of the eggs were that Digimon color
All DMC and All PenC
I already have all PenC cutin so DMC 1 to 5
I hope you have all despite I was 2% done, and I only had eggs and babies
If you do, I can stop my project. I can’t really progress pass that point.
I checked the ESPConnect program and it shows me that there are about 8 MB that are not used on the device and it gives me a signal warning me, is it not possible to take advantage of that space or does it have to do with the storage capacity?
I have tried alternate, but the program won’t let you edit part partition
I have tried multiple times to save changes and it remains the same
I think cause we don’t have administrative control
Is it possible for you to add a mute option?
Rurounik has confirmed he plans on adding this in upcoming versions.
I have a DMX B roaster in-progress. I am done with stages 1 to 4 thought the cut-ins are all black and white.
Since I can't use levels as evolution requirements, I am using effort.
Also, I had to delete the PenC2 roaster to have enough space to add mine.
I did put it on the device and had a run with it. It works except in quest mode were you are supposed to fight a PenC2 digimon. In that case it takes the digimon sprites of the current digimon but the attack sprites of the one that was supposed to be in PenC2.
Just wanted to note that
awesome sauce
im thinking about colourizing cut ins can you send a zip with them aswell as any normal sprite for them for colour refrence, and ill see what i can do?
ill work on them and once im done you can release an updated version with colour cutins. that way you arent stuck waiting on me
What kind of material you use for printing this?
Is filament or resin better?
Ill finish it today.
DMCs and PenCs are almost done.
DMCs only need Cutin
It is. It was using 6mb +2mb(app).
I will release a new 8mb+2mb one with Meal Empire.
I do not use all space, cause every time i need to upload something to Litlefs it takes a looong time to finish.
PLA from Bambu Lab and Masterprint.
Nice, thanks 😄
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #111 - 23)
This one is Masterprint
Is awesome, I really like it
Thanks... It's thanks to @vapid belfry
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @tight coral (current: #497 - 3)
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #152 - 15)
Ah cool I thought it wasn't used
Yeah, I wasn’t gonna be able to finish
IT's not. But because i don't want to(it's not needed at the moment).
What cut in are missing?
Thanks to him too 😛
All DMCs
Damn
Cause DMCs does not have Cut-ins
What I remember having are Mastermon, Omegamon alter s, Blitz and Crees and I don't remember much else
There are also the officers
I just found out that mastemon were not in the DMC XD
Yeah that was the PenC NSp, NSo, and VBu I believe. There may be more and I am not fully remembering
Hey, I’m learning how to use my 3-D printer any tips?
They are just those, and since it is repeated a lot in the pendulums, I suffered from dementia and I thought they were also in the digital monsters
Print horizontally if you want a clean shell but you will need to learn how to use supports. If you have a Bambu Lab, you should use normal supports, not tree.
Check your Top Z distance of your supports in your slicer and make sure it’s not super low (mine was 0.0 until I changed it), make sure to level your bed every time you relocate your printer, wipe the build plate with a little bit of IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) before leveling + printing
And in general look up what each setting does, your Z-Offset for your filament lay down and temperature can influence layer/bed adhesion for example (also 60C is good for at least the first layer)
I have mine set up where my first layer is always 60C then drops to 50C afterwards
I have a flash forge printer
I have been learning how to use it
Currently, I’m worried about the literal residue in small particulars of plastic in the air
Thank you both for the tips
Ah oki. For that I think you would need an enclosure or cover with an air filter attached to it I believe
If you plan to sand the prints
Bowl of water and sand paper/sponges
Or properly mask up
Tbh water w/ sanding is a good idea regardless it gives you a smooth finish and keeps the paper/sponge from getting clogged with plastic
I have sanding sponges/blocks personally
They’re good for contouring fine detail so you don’t mess up those details as bad
But do kinda suck for flat surfaces
This especially applies to Resin since the dust can be toxic
Enclosure thing is a bit of a paradox because they give you the parts if you buy them, but you have the print the holding components for it
My fast forge model is AD5X
I do have a room filter in my house
I get a change out the current filters
Icl I thought “there’s no way you actually have to print it”
Then I looked it up
Yep
Your later models have a built-in fume hood and activated. I’m charcoal.
It was the cheapest model at the time
If you have a filter it probably should be oki. It should reduce the PPM of particulate in the air after printing.
Even if it’s not like attached to an enclosure
It’s a open air printer the enclosure components are optional The only fan that has is this cooling fan for the motherboard.
Either way unless you’re grinding bad print back to filament pellets and then turning it back into filament you don’t have too much to worry about
Grinding plastic produces lots of dust which can build up in places and become combustible
Multi-filament, fancy
Yeah, I wanted something that I would use for years
I’m mostly worried about it because of health concerns
I heard about people trying to turn filament back into powdered and melted back into more filament.
I would potentially look into air quality monitors but idk, some of them don’t cost a ton.
Yeah it’s also how you recycle plastic cups and bottles.
I used to work at a plastic factory as a Flexographic print specialist, the grinding machines were always going.
The scariest thing really was the people I’m ngl. Let’s just say, factory workers can be p high cortisol
What OK I say that’s worse
Added:
Pendulum Color 5: Metal Empire
I'm to tired to change anything else
I'll start to fix things tomorrow, hope you like this one
Backup your Digimon on NacaStorage before update
Thank you so much for your hard work on this update! I'm really grateful that you made and shared this version with us. I'm so excited to try it out! Please get some good rest today. 🫶
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #110 - 24)
Thank you so much!
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @narrow ridge (current: #807 - 1)
@shadow ibex Did a great job.
NacaStorage is compatible with this new Update.
Enjoy!
@shadow ibex Thanks a lot for making NacaStorage compatible with the new update! You and Rurounik are the best! 👏👏
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @shadow ibex (current: #7 - 215)
The Wi-Fi connection is already established. How do I use Naca Upload?
#1494144833168867378 message
here!
I've already edited rede.txt, but I'm still not quite sure how to operate Naca.
Website that allows users to battle online with their Digimon V-Pets. Supporting A-Coms and WiFiComs!
Create account.
Go to settings
Fan devices and activate this option.
Go to NacaStorage and upload.
Chose V-Pet GO
Did you enable Fan Devices in Settings?
I really love this thing but nox that I have one I've noticed how small the menu text is; it's hard to read from a distance. Do you think it would be possible to make a vpet like the Bandai ones with icons at the top and bottom? It's simpler and everything looks better.
And you have to go to the new website page:
https://new.battle.nacatech.es/ns
Website that allows users to battle online with their Digimon V-Pets. Supporting A-Coms and WiFiComs!
It is possible but it's not top priority. Sorry, at least for now.
It's okay, I'll enjoy the device like this for now and eagerly await that improvement.
ok i see thx guys
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #104 - 25)
And could the menus be made with larger, pixel-like text? That would be really cool; the text would be bigger and much easier to read on this tiny screen.
Thanks。
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #99 - 26)
Go to NacaStorage and refresh the website
Be sure it says "naca server on" in green text before the room code screen. If it doesn't then it was not able to connect to your wifi
Btw @thin sail when did you add an exp screen to the Colosseum and lvl up screens? This is a huge qol improvement!
I feel like im progressing and my digimon is getting stronger now. Its funny how a small thing like that can really up the experience of the game
it looks like the travel path for each colour based on the colour swap tower
with the lines all connecting to the tower?
I doubled in video game designed for a bit
so the colour swap tower is a block your printer to have a spot to empty the remaining fillament fo the prior colour before it starts on the next
you print 1 layer of a red part, swap in the white fillament, empty out all the remaining red onto a different part of the plate, then prints a layer of the white part
it is showing you how the hot end is traveleing and with what colour
the reason it looks so funky is that its all vectors. theres no objects only the lines of travel
Oh thank you
ADHD kicked in
Are you going now? Go fix some settings so my printer won’t explode.
i cant edit ur settings? Lol
Yes, i did.
Still need work but it's functional
0.72 it was added.
0.75 was Metal Empire only
Did you use Pendulum function?
It now reads wich version your Digimon came from and shows Megahit from that version when training
It also works exactly like Pendulum Color and it feels like it
Oh Pendulum Color +, cause the ready screen sound are from @polar galleon mod
I was wondering why different digimon had different mega hit screens!
That makes sense since i was mostly using 0.71
What are your goals before version 1.0?
Dunno. I think 1.0 will never come lol
I still want to add dual digimon taming
Like Pen20th
And Special Eggs
How do you generate this bin file ? through Arduino ide or espconnect?
Python Script
Upload through ESPconnect
Oh do you mean the whole update?
@digital tartan has leveled up! (11 ➜ 12)
If you're using a low-capacity battery like I am (401730 160mAh), it's better to reduce the charging current by changing the PROG resistor.
I replaced the 2kΩ resistor with a 20kΩ resistor, reducing the charging current from 500mA to 50mA.
This is safer for the battery and can help extend its cycle life.
😁
This shell is modified on the basis of the shell you shared. Thank you again for sharing.🤝
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @digital tartan (current: #22 - 105)
yooo i was trying to make a shell like that but yours is way better
that looks actually amazing bro
did you manage to fit all the components in that?
I redesigned the pcb, not Lyligo
damn, sick!
I loved it... Thinking in a metal shell with that design
Can you share, please?
Can you also share that one?
What happened with the grooves that hold the back plate on btw? They look like they didn’t form.
Slicer:
I mean at the base sorry, it looks like it’s not printing the walls around the cavities that hold the shell in place.
I may have it too thin maybe
it is awesome!!!
In the second video I can see them pretty well. It looks like it printed out correctly.
Edit: Nvm. I think I understand what you mean now.
It's only compatible with the board I modded. I still need to fix a few glitches before releasing it.
Oh, ok
@thin sail can you pin this doc to this channel for me? that way we can make it easier for new people to quickly get started with the project.
In threads not even the owner can pin a message
I just noticed it that ESP32 Lilygo VPET does have a top menu with icons, which is interesting. It's really great, I hope see it here too.
Damn it must use a p thin battery. I think mine was like 25-30mm. What are the specs/parts?
Or the shell is p thin
No actually it does make full sense especially if you don’t make the trenner super thick
You could use all the same parts
The battery + ESP32 is only like 12-14mm
I think mine ended up so thick cuz of the walls
And the front is actually kinda thick thanks to needing all the extra room for detail
The front face may actually be the second hardest thing I had to do for that pendulum shell
With the hardest being the grid ridges at the time
@vapid belfry I’m using VB’s battery. 401730
Ah oki
I can Link in main topic
Done
Finally doing a full print of all the parts at once
I’ll be able to finally, fully build a single one probably today
I’m gonna sand and paint this one but I’m gonna order some different color PLA in the future
Maybe PETG when I get an enclosure
Man what a guide, THANK YOU!
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thick jasper (current: #367 - 5)
Thank you! I do a lot of instructions and protocolizing for work so i tried to bring some of that to it. Honestly i just want it to be as easy as possible for people to enjoy your project because its really great!
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #96 - 27)
If there is any edits needed i am more than happy to update the dock
Not for now, and if you find any Portuguese words, let me know
I think I made the shell a little too hard to print. Or I still suck at 3D printing
Might be the latter cuz the more I know the better they come out
So far its just been voltar and vazio. Also the Colosseum is somtimes called tournament/torneio
whats going on with the prints?
Think it’s just bad/uneven layer cooling. I found out my printer head fan was never turned on this whole time during any of the prints. My dimensions are slightly inaccurate as a result also.
Also I have a Tenstar T-Display where the screen is slightly off by like 2-3 mm
I could probably fix it by lifting it up and moving it a little tho
But yeah especially with supports, when they don’t cool right, they can also end up too tall and the nozzle head scratches the hell out of them. Making for a really messed up print.
But honestly the model itself is just really…janky in some parts. Things I never noticed before cuz I knew less when I started working on 3D modeling
It is oki for a model made starting from 0 experience though I think
It sounds like mostly printer tweaking tho. Have you printed a benchy?
Those little boats aren't perfect stress tests but they are good for getting a general idea of what the printers problem might be
I use the benchy to get the idea of whats going on the specialized benchmark tests to fine tune everything
I say work on that before editing you shell
Yeah I’m done messing with the shell, opening it in blender gives me anxiety atp. Not even touching it.
I’m just gonna keep focusing on tuning my printer atm like you said. But yeah I need to make one. I’ve done the official bed level test print, but ig the reason I haven’t done one yet is because I’ve been rushing into printing cuz I don’t get a whole lot of time to do it begin with.
honestly dedicate an afternoon to just working on it. i had to do that recently and replace a few parts
Your shell model is awesome. You did a great job. I think I speak for everyone here when I say we are grateful for your work on it. It will only get better as you gain more experience and continue to learn how your printer works. Keep up the good work!
For printing, it helps to do a flow rate calibration too. I recently started working with tpu and learned that moisture in filament can cause issues with printing. This also affects PLA filament and others to a lesser degree. Storage and drying is apparently really important for your material. I live in SE Asia, so the climate here is hot and humid. Wrecks my printing and filament if not properly stored and prepared.
I'm going to try to install the wifi options; I have the wificom secret. How do I put the file into vpetgo so that everything works?
This project doesn't currently support WifiCom capability.
You'll want to use this one instead if you want a wificom: https://discord.com/channels/761581682686951455/1444349534225567875
Okay, it's just that since I saw there were online options, I thought so, thanks for clarifying.
Great job on the Instruction Manual. Thanks for putting that together. It was very clear and detailed.
If I can suggestion a few edits, please add them if you think they would be helpful:
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On page 6 of the Software Manual under Backup, stage II Digimon and above can be stored, not stage III and up.
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Also on page 3 for the Setup, I've heard that some people have had problems with high Baudrates (possibly because of their cable). Can you add a suggestion to try lowering the Baudrate if they get errors on reads and writes when trying to flash?
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Lastly, this is optional but good to know especially if you are consistently modifying files on LittleFS. You can also reset the device on ESPConnect by going to Serial Monitor and clicking on "Reset".
Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thick jasper (current: #334 - 6)
Awesome il get right on that
@vapid belfry I don't quite understand what the hole in the part that I assume is the clacker is for, nor do I really know how it's installed and how the rest of the cables are distributed.
For the clacker, the 5th piece goes inside the 3rd piece. It is used to reproduce the sound that the pendulum devices make when you shake them. When looking at the inside of the shell, the clacker pieces go inside at the top right slot.
The fourth button, the reset button, is for the small hole on the right that is on the top side of the shell, closest to the screen when looking at it from the front. You insert it from the inside of the shell and use it to push the reset button of the ESP32 Lilygo device.
For installation help and a connections guide, check out migbello's User Manual and Guide found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1M5XbdZ3Iaxt2mp7OfAmFTNT-hXhR44Gh9ulvFv6ooAs/edit?tab=t.0.
A link to this guide can also be found bookmarked on the very top post.
Digimon V-Pet Go Comprehensive instructions Digimon gameplay and characters by Bandai Software by Rurounik Additional Credits Document by Migbello NacaTech Implementation by Nacabaro Purchase List by WolTheMan About Originally based on the expanded vpet project from Dr.Do, the project's soft...
Thanks for details
