#Ultra Zero G Pro (8WD, Watercooled, Hydra, 9mm Belts, 54V, 2:46.42 Benchy)
2326 messages · Page 3 of 3 (latest)
Much better
Its more organised
It really is. I still kind of want to do the backpack and those connectors but I really want to get it up and running so I may do all that later or at least those connectors 🤔
Half the fun is rebuilding it
Soooooo
Had to order new gt3 9mm for it
Soon as they get here I'll swapem
I also was able to fix my honey badger motor, I think. Going to see how it goes.
Oh also my new plan for water cooling is an end plate, and 3 40x40 cooling blocks for each motor. Those are gonna be ice cold. So unbelievably overkill. Perfect for me.
Wanted to get the printer up and running so I can print test parts in PLA and fast. I can't print less than 300mm and 25k acceleration now. It looks SO SLOW. lol old printer is like plz sir, spare me.
actually super interested in seeing how those blocks go, I am absolutely doing that if they work
True I can just wait and add them later
I may need to get your slicer profile whenever I get mine going. 🤣
so what I really want to see is it enclosed and in heated enclosure, because ultimately that was my plan just not with AWD yet so Im invested to see how the waterblocks go and how much cooler they run because it could work for my use case
I managed to source 2 LDO-42STH48-2504AH(S8-55) so even though they're the high temp models I can imagine they still run just as hot
Yeah the high temp rating just means they can withstand higher temps overall so 130c but they still run the same temps as far as running power to them if that makes sense
That's my exact plan!
Check this thing out
It ruins other printers. Now anything more than a 15 min benchy I'm like man that's slow
I figured it will 🤣. I have a feeling this is gonna be my go to printer for everything and maybe a small parts printer. The other ones will be for orders and things that I’m not impatient for.
May honestly just throw it in the Creality tent I have for cheap enclosure until I get around to building an enclosure for it
Ignore the shaky table but I just love this thing so much
Ugh why does it keep ruining the colors
Ohhhh HDR
I think next big mod after water-cooling and everything is good to be an ecrf for this one
Mines gonna be on some garage shelving but I wonder if I should just leave it on the floor 🤣
I normally do it on the floor
Look at tradrack 14 channel mmu and its only like $150
Yeah I’m debating on just making it permanently live on the floor but I gotta find a spot easy to get to
Yeah the kit
One sec
Sorry $115
You son of a bitch
My bad 🤣. I was debating it for mine or doing toolchanger eventually but I may give that one a shot since it’s not crazy expensive and I can use it on my other machines
I have a mosaic palette 3 pro but it’s pretty much a paperweight at this point 🤣
I’m hoping normal printing I can leave it on the shelf with the sv08 and then for speed runs throw it on the floor. May have to add some weight to the bottom of the shelves or more printers on the bottom 🤣
I mean look at this 8 min benchy in petg
Needs some tweaks after the rebuild but like
Yeah that’s insane. I have a big statue I need to print for someone and I already know it’s gonna be so much faster than any of my other printers so I’m waiting to use this one. Also I need the full z height 🤣.
Do you use orca? I could just copy those settings and it’d be perfect
Yee
When you're ready I can send my configs over, they'll need some tweaks but should be close
My printer.cfg is 600 lines now lmao
May need to split it out some more
Perfect! It's on Ali too
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m02ZPll
Okay dope I’ll reach out and let you know when I’m ready.
Yeah I’m gonna have fun with my config lol. I’m gonna split up all the macros and stuff to a separate file but doing the 8WD config I want to make sure I get all my pins assigned correctly and think of the best way to hook the motors up to the boards. Like a,a1, b,b1 or a,b then a1, b1
Do a box turtle
I do back left awd, front left awd, back right awd, front right awd, back left hybird, front left hybrid, back right hybird, front right hybrid. The first 4 on the kraken are beefier tho which is why I did that
THought about that one too
Cool I’ll probably do it that way as well. Thankfully all 8 are the same on the octopus pro and since I’m running two of them the pins will be the same so shouldn’t be too bad
Looks like you'd need a stepper at least though
Yeah I think 2 but I haven’t looked at the official bom. 14 channels is pretty cool though
I think I am gonna switch over to kalico too
It is hey, from what I could see the box turtle is the evolution of that, expensive but better
Any specific reason? I’ve been needing to look into it
Just been reading through those
Interested in the new smooth input shaper and PA input shaping.
Yeah it looks really nice. After having 2 p1s’s with ams’s I’m kinda over all the purging and waste. I’m leaning towards toolchangers for my next upgrades/builds but who knows maybe tradrack or box turtle could be fun
[mcu] is_non_critical enables marking of an mcu as optional - it can be freely disconnected and connected at will. (useful for MCU-based accelerometer boards, mcu-based probes that shut down in hot chambers, etc...)
would be really nice for the beacon, randomly it gets upset mid print
Since it's only used for Z could be nice
Oh that’s sick and I think you could also define acceleration per axis so 100k y 150k x or whatever if they’re different
[temperature_fan] control: curve lets you set a fan curve instead of linear control oooooooooooo
That would be so nice
Yeah that would be really nice
I can do that for the fans on the rad
It’s just pointing to their fork right or do you have to reflash boards and all that
I may just start with that. I already have my pi configured and set up with klipper so I can just point it before I start working on my config and flashing my boards
It’s nice cause I can use the same firmware.bin for both boards lol
Yeah you gotta reflash everything
Okay cool I’ll just do that from the beginning then
I may swap over my other printers to it too after I mess with it more
Are you gonna do bleeding edge or main branch?
Yeah it’s not like you have to enable all the bleeding edge features just because they’re available now
What do you guys reckon out of these 2 corner brackets?
I think either one of them should work. Probably these since it has support all the way across instead of the single flat backplate
Yeah I run those
Uber strong
I tried to sit on my printer to see if I could get it to flex. Nothing
I run those on each inside corner, and then corner plates on the outside
With the backpack now it's insane
I need to add the inner ones to mine but that can happen later it’s solid right now
found this for .99 at home depot, best thing ever for cleaning the bed
I need to go grab one. I’m just using the tiny Bambu scrapers lol
that also will give you better results.
these things will give you super good results too, and are the most common
I really need to get some but I’d have to buy 2 sets so almost $50 😭. I’ll get those when I do the connectors lol
Kalico installed
Everything ported, just had to reflash everything, and then reinstall all the plugins
Oh and a few config changes, but not bad at all
Flashing is all done via the pi so it's quick
I made one of those with spare parts lying around from the merc build. prbably it wil cost much less than 100$, mine costed around 50. I did 5 lanes, it uses a 100mm rail and a 150 t-slot (so to give you a visual of the size)
Oh that's not bad at all. I know I have spare motors from past builds I could use. Does it work well? Do you just have it use a purge block during prints. I haven't looked too much into it.
honestly, it's a bit of a rabbit hole the whole mmu, you'd need a filament cutter and a purge bucket, but the best use I do it's just to swap spool without needing to go down and actually unload and load myself. Plus, it uses the tradrack extruder together the sherpa mini, so there is no possible filament path that can bother that system, if the spool get tangled, the all thing get pulled over the printer 😂 . So it also improves the print quality in some sense, making a very easy life for the toolhead extruder. But you'll need a filament sensor on the toolhead as well, and a extrusion buffer (so if one of the two extruder is out of sync the buffer orchestrate the thing). I started with the tradrack and just a sensor on the extruder, so it can be minimal, but it build up 😅
posibly yes, it's a tiny thing, let me fetch a picture...
Have you seen this thread. Rabbit holes r us
Oh god 🤣. Yeah maybe if I went with the orbiter with the inline filament sensor 🤔. I could add that with one of my other printers or swap out the vz-hextrudort.
Purge bucket and nozzle wipe shouldn’t be an issue I have a little bit of space on my plus.
this is an old image, you can see I recycled the Y double shaft motor 😂
on top of a filament spool
Now I need it 🤣. It’d fit perfectly mounted here.
43k for y is awesome
Well it has 4 less motors than y lol
I wonder how much setting them separately in the config would change
Rip hopefully nothing crazy
Glad I got 4 of current one. Then I can get 4 with the temp sensors when they drop 😎
Installing these on all motors
Going to give a shot
Last part will be here tomorrow morning and then full water cooling babyyyy
That is gonna be crazy. With that many barbed water connections i would get a box of spring style hose clamps. They re-tighten as this settle from vibration.
Definitely doing the same if it works
What color liquid are you gonna use or go colorless?
Yeah, good call!
Whelp it's gonna look hella jank but it should work
I see why they went with tiny hoses and just the end plates
Looping these together is a pain in the ass
Update
That's not gonna work
It only pushed fluid through the first two motors, so I'd need a wayyyyy stronger pump, or redo the manifold system
500l/m isn't enough
8 pumps one for each motor 👀
Hmmm
How much are the pumps?
Maybe a fish tank pump? I know those can do a lot but not sure how compact they are
25
if it’s only doing 2 motors you’d probably need at least 4, would you be able to mount 3 other ones? I wonder if you’d have to do 4 separate loops instead of one continuous one
This might blow the fittings off lol
Look for a big pc loop pump
Not sure what spec the combo one is but a good d5 could do better
Looking at server cooling setups
for 8 gpu's
PMP-600 provides the highest overall output among Koolance's 24V pumps. A mounting bracket is included.
Maximum Flow Rate: 20L/min (5.3 gal/min)
They say thins thing
https://a.co/d/3O6rbba Going with this one
So I changed my mind
Because I worked out the math and the that is going to be starving, so I am opting for 2 of these 800L / H
Description:
The shell is made of high-quality reinforced ABS, so it is durable. Adopted advancing electronic component and quality wear-resistant shaft. Stable operation, high efficiency, good performance, long service lifespan. Long time continuous working, low noise, safety and environmental p...
Hell yeah aquarium pumps are solid 😎. Plus those are cheaper
Worst case the one I sent was 800g/HR or 3000L/H which is crazy lol
Oh yeah didn’t realize that lol
Hmm, wouldn't some pumps have the whole pressure vs volume issue like fans have with Cfm and static pressure?
Ahh, I see it now, that one has 5m vs a D5 has 3.7, so I guess it's an ok increase
As far as I remember on of the reasons why loops often don't use aquarium pumps even though they're higher flow is they often don't have enough head pressure to push as they aren't often designed to pump against much resistance
Koolance do the big Bois with a lot higher head pressure for big loops/higher pressure reqs, they're a little more expensive but designed for it
https://koolance.com/pumps-individual-stand-alone
Koolance magnetic centrifugal coolant pumps range from 12 to 24 Volts DC. A spinning impeller pushes coolant through the loop. This category is for pumps onl
And they can be run often on 12 OR 24V
I think I had a ton of air lock too, I got valves so I can bleed each loop
Ultra Zero G Pro (8WD, Watercooled, Hydra, 9mm Belts, 54V)
I might need to start a new post with the actual build instead of miles of reading lol
Once I'm done tho
This is insanity 😂😂😂
What pump did you end up using?
Can confirm, used to use two PMP450 to watercool 10 servers. They are beasts.
Looks amazing. 😍
@dawn patio
I started out with 6x4mm, then got the lil cooling blocks, and was like well I can fit three and still put the acrylic panels on, and now everything is 10x8mm, with the mains being 3/8x1/2in. It definitely escalated quickly lol
I could still slap on the back cooling blocks but I have a feeling this should be more than enough cooling 😂
Still have a few ideas to really clean up the hoses, also need to figure out where I'm going to stuff double the amount to add the lower hybrid motors....
That looks so good!
those extrusions at the front might cause some resonances you dont want 👀
@thorn crown for sure, need to add the front pieces, had to leave them off until I got a new tap
Whoops meant the picture
I should run input shaper, bet they act like tuning forks rn
I wonder if this would be an improvement, I want to try it for the hex but its for sherpa too
@dawn patio are you running a printed Hextrudort? The cnc ones from Mellow already have that.
maybe lgx lite?
Oh shit! No way, yeah I am, that's awesome
yeah, its mellows version obviously but its the same thing. Cnc machnined integrated.
Awesome
@dense elbow how much did ur watercooling setup cost?
Err prob like 1k
Would have to check, bought a lot and returned alot changing design directions
I wonder if it’d cost more to watercool the plus 🤔
Although for another 1K I could start my beta build 👀
Everything is officially water cooled
Including the extruder and extruder stepper motor
how did you even manage to put the endstop on the right side
just on watercooling??
yeah for everything, including the watercooled hex, stepper motor heatsinks, tubning, coolant, pumps, rad, fans, etc.
Made a custom mount for it
ah I see
Fits the curve of the pancake and uses the Uber long screw that bolts the heatsink to the extruder
@deft egret I can hit 1250mm/s with 150k accel now, which is scary
Watching that thing just FLYING
@dense elbow did you change back to the hgx?
8 classifieds at 2.5A? 👀 that’s insane 🤣
Dayum
Switched to a 10T motor and getting decent results, ordered the hex plus WC
Still disapointed with it tbh, I think the plus with a 10t will be good
I have to stick with a vz water cooled or I need to install the whoile heatbreak and everything again on the goliath
Oh yeah true! Shit, that's a pain
Torturing the Vz235 on this one. Mainsail team wanted to see their logo printed at the fatest speed possible on this printer... here it is guys!I do the stupid things so you don't have to do it haha.Well im glad how this little monster performed. Rock solid :)
(@50 it takes 22.5 mm of movement to reach 1500mms)
Printers:
-full Vz235 printer kit...
I just saw this
Latest update is working on this
Only 40 more tests to go
Each one takes about 5-10min and uses 5g so not too bad but very time consuming
Not bad at all. Hope you get good results from it!
Basically it should have the ideal PA value for any combo of accel and speed from 100-800mm/s and 1k-50k
This is just for this filament though, hopefully it dosen't change too much between different filaments
Would prob have to do for each type tho, pla,petg,asa,etc
Dang that’s a lot of tests. yeah probably for each filament type
Hopefully the results are worth it then I’ll probably tune mine for it.
Also, wtf do I do with a 300mm bed? I got one for free and don't want to do a voron
The 250?
I think it uses about that size
That's the printer name, if you're not familiar
The t250?
Yeah
Does the t250 use a 300mm bed. I thought it was smaller 🤔
I keep posting to @obtuse field lol, Found a much better way to tune adaptive PA
Using the kalico bleeding edge PA test
This does 3 different speed zones, so one tower per accel you want to tune
So far seeing much more accurate results, plus it bypasses everything since its in the firmware and not slicer
Will post results after finishing up tuning
Ayeee awesome may have to do that method
Your next printer?
https://ston-3d.com/products/ston-wolf-batch-2
That looks crazy
oh goodness no. why.
I like it, but I would do the h-bot motion system like the one on positron
Because fast
So my quality setting is still a 15min benchy that's flawless, not fast but also not slow. Pretty happy with it over all.
that cant be fast. almost all the motion system components are on the gantry
1500mm/sec travel speed at 30k accel (motors warm, not boiling).
• 300-600mm/sec print speed at 12-40k accel
Yeah def not fast
I mean quick, sure, fast? no
@obtuse field @deft egret Warning, don't upgrade to latest extended core-xy
Breaks homing
Nice
Did you get it fixed?
Also are you doing 400mm bed with the new build? Will there be enough clearance for the hybrid front motors or is it not gonna be 8WD? Mine is suppper close idk how you’d fit a 400 bed unless the beta frame is bigger overall. If so I may go 400mm if I have to go hydra with the new frame too 🤔
I mean it's here and it fast, maybe not as fast as 1500 but still very fast
https://youtube.com/@ston-3d
Ston-3d is a true mom and pop start-up by Tereza and Nathan in Prague CZ.
ston-3d.com for more info or contacts.
That fan duct design is crazy cool. I like the unconventional design.
400mm @40k 😭 what I’m trying to get mine tuned to
Printed in 2 hours with my 15min benchy profile. Absolutely flawless
Maybe just a bit more overhang cooling
That looks amazing! I upped my cooling to like 70% and 80 for overhangs it helps a ton. I may run it like that but I gotta tweak it some more
2:53.29
I think this will be my official submission
Sure aint pretty, but it's a benchy
Damnit if I can kick another second it'll be 7th
Let me see what I can eo
Dude what??
I officially made an entry
https://youtu.be/H5eLGl_kmNw?si=E7c8lqtLxmHNbMPg
2:46:41
985mm/s speed
115kmm/s acceleration
105 SCV
Build Components:
Frame: Ender 5 OG
Gantry: FYSTEC Lightweight
Bed: Fabreeko 275mm
Hydra Mod
Electronics: BTT Kraken, BTT Pico, Pi 5, BTT SKSM
Power Supplies: LRS-600-48, LRS-350-24
Hotend: Goliath
Toolhead: VZ CNC
Extruder: HGX Lite
AWD Belts: 9mm GT3
Hybrid Belts: 6mm GT3
AWD Motors: Honeybadger/Turtlecrawlers "Classified" Open Beta Motors
Hy...
As for future plans, currently I am getting it fixed again, after I snapped a few things during those runs. Then working on the enclosure again for it
maybe switch to all metal for back towers and xy? 👀
imo, rigidy > lightweight and many motors
If you do that and get it working Il do it too lol, always wanted AWD metal
maybe not the front towers since theres no design, but for most cases, awd isnt necessary
But if case is, "go fast"
you can still do well with 2wd
imo, push out the most you can out of 2wd. it promots good engineering
I mean look at precurrsor
I chose violence over engineering haha
It's the true American way. Just add more horsepower
Lol
I dont mean offense to you, but I still see him as the face of ZeroG and the best mercury
Oh ive said that many times
Why I didn't take fastest nerc
On the official post I also said mercury inspired not mercury
I mean the only Merc part I have is the x joint which is upside down and Hydra.
So it's just not the same
I have infinite respect for him, what he has achieved is incredible
you should switch to all metal on your back towers and xy
it would greatly help Im sure
and double shear
Yeah, it's def on the list. Honestly I'm really happy with where it's at rn though. I'm going to enclose it and then just print for a while on it. It's only printed benchies lol
Everything is currently double shear tho
@dense elbow would you consider selling the steppers you have if you're getting the new batch of classifieds with thermistors?
Probably not unfortunately, as going to be using them for other builds.
Lookie
SLM printed worm drive extruder- initial print after assembly
This is a 15:1 worm drive using a 2 start worm and a K1 extruder gear. Interestingly, this arrangement puts the extruder motor on it's back, lowering the center of mass and taking the motor heat to the base toolplate and to the extruder frame.
2.8 rotation distance (~1100 steps per m...
Ultra Zero G Pro (8WD, Watercooled, Hydra, 9mm Belts, 54V, 2:46.42 Benchy)
Latest update on the Merc, I have been working on the enclosure for it. Haven't had a ton of free time unfortunately though.
@tranquil fog Here's the insanity
okay thanks
Ayyy lol