#Ultra Zero G Pro (8WD, Watercooled, Hydra, 9mm Belts, 54V, 2:46.42 Benchy)
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I think the octopus pro does 60v as well
That's guaranteed to fry everything though
Yeah, on the spec sheet It says the adjustment range is to 52.8V
The motion system couldn't handle that kind of stress without being all metal at the minimum
Hybrid would need to be 9mm
I may just bite the bullet and do the 1000W so I don’t have to try and make extra room. Still debating it lol
I'm looking at other options rn
Dope I’m probably not ordering until tomorrow or Saturday
no lol
Yeah I realized I had it wrong after I sent that lol
Guys calm down with 1kw power supply's you need less than 500 for 3A all motors
600w has 120w headroom
I would recommend a 60v 800w power supply at most
That would leave 320w headroom
The math doesn't add up though?
Beacuse the motor is not at 60v
The driver is
The motors is at a much lower voltage
I will test tomorow
For 8 motors at 2A
With a multimeter
And the motors is at 2A not the driver, so math is not going to math because you cant multiply the motor amps with the driver voltage
If 48v 2A were on all motors you would need 768w and my power supply would just pop
That makes sense
Also vzbot’s run theirs at 1.9 run current and they only come with a 350w power supply for the 48v
So I should be good with the 350w… 600w if I want some headroom/upgradability later
In theory you need 320w for 2A so for 3A you would need 480w
What I would get a 60V, it makes the motors even more powerful at higher speeds
I don’t think meanwell makes a 60v one but I found some on amazon that are cheap. Idk how good they are though
Parameters: Input voltage: AC 110-220V ± 15% Output: DC 0-60V 8A Rated power: 480W Product Dimension: 21511550mm (lengthwidthheight) Wiring: 〨: Ground N: Null wire L: Live wire V+: DC output + V-: DC output - Instructions for use: The current is unregulated and maximum is 8A. The actual curre...
Product Features: Intelligent cooling:60V 600W power converter with aluminum housing, built-in high-speed cooling fan, metal housing with multiple holes for more efficient heat dissipation. High Efficiency and Reliability:Overload protection, overvoltage protection, overcurrent protection, short-...
The 5160T Pros say they can only do 56V max
Meanwell makes 55v if I remember correctly
I’ll probably just stick with the 48v one. Either 350 or 600w but probably 600.
This was a great watch. Currently watching this one now:
Thank you to David from Voron for help with the equations, @JoshMurrah for help testing and validating the model, and @JaredC01 for testing pulley sizes!
Follow me on Twitter:
https://twitter.com/eddietheengr
Excel Database Here:
https://github.com/eddietheengineer/documentation/tree/master/stepper_motor/data
Jared's Youtube Channel:
https://...
Meanwells lrs can be adjusted to up to 57.9 volts
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These are the same motors we're using
You can see it even goes over the set current for a bit.
So voltage isn't a part of the equation, it purely just helps it reach max amps faster. So you would still need enough amps for all motors. 8*3=24 amps, doesn't matter what voltage.
So if you got a 48v you would need an 1152 watt power supply
Yeah these videos have been amazing
I’m on the dyno vid right now but gonna watch that one next
So dual 600’s?
👀
Ok here's the options. If you want to run 8 motors at 3A (would be insane and probably unachievable would only be for doing speed runs) you would need 1152w.... Active cooling, and short run times. Plus the motors that even support that. So 1000W is enough.
Realistically you're looking at like 1.6A for a still fast but daily driver experience IMO which is 12.8 A or 614W at 48V so anything more is for speed.
Cheapest:
LRS-600-48 X2 $100-140
Silent Smallest Single:
UHP-1000-48 $230
Cheapest Single but Loud and Huge:
SE-1000-48 $183
So it's stick to a single 600 and be happy for 99%, get 1000 and be totally set but compromise in cost or sound. Or piggyback the two 600s and somehow find some space for em.
Would 4th option be take a gamble on random brand power supply? lol
For sure an option
Cost would suck but since I’m running cpap I’m not too worried about the sound
Honestly may take the gamble on it but still not sure
Reviews seem pretty solid
Fan is always on though and not temp controlled
Even if they inflated the values by %20 you still would have 1000 watts
This one has temperature sensor before fan kicks on. Probably gonna give it a shot tbh.
My brain hurts so much, but I know so much more about printers now
I binged all his videos
I hope he comes back soon, no posts for a year
who?
eddie the engineer
What I learned is I def need more power
That's wonderful. I've always wondered what spread cycle was.
This comment had me spinning, because you're totally right. Also looking at the watt usage graph, it doesn't line up with the amp usage graph. So how does that make any sense? However I think I know why. The watt graph provides an average power usage at a given speed. Which is pretty low, because it's throttling itself to maintain that speed. The amperage graph provides instant amperage applied, but if you look the voltage is increasing with time as the stepper starts moving faster and faster. From what I can tell, the massive capacitors on the kraken are tanking those amperage spikes because the voltage is so low, which would explain why the power supply isn't needing to push out the max wattage. Also meanwells specifically the lrs models can provide up to 150% power output for short periods of time, using huge capacitors as well. So it seems like yes you can use a smaller power supply and still get good results. However if you want maximum performance and overkill, it could be necessary to ensure you have enough headroom for the power supply to provide enough current for sustained high speeds.
I think the attached graph supports that, as you can see the power usage increases with speed, because it's actually allowing more power to hit the stepper. As established higher voltage let's you hit higher current faster. Based on that graph, at around 1000mm/s at 48v for 1 amp it's 31W, at 1.4 amps it's about 34. As you can see it's diminishing returns so maybe a max of 60w for 3 amps? 36v at 1 amp is 25w, so with some rough estimates, if you push the meanwell to 58v you need maybe like 75w per motor which is 600w total. However this would be for sustained speeds at 1000mm/s if you put in a 200mm move with 100k acceleration you can see that it's sustained early on, but any move smaller than 5.5mm doesn't hit 1000mm/s and wouldn't use the full power. Which for a benchy is only hit on the walls I believe.
So what the hell am I rambling about? @deft egret and the wattage graph make a good point. Power depends on voltage and current, the stepper motors spend most of their time at a much lower voltage trying to overcome emf, as shown with the above screenshot. You don't need that much total amperage unless you have high voltage, and sustained very high speed. The capacitors can provide enough amperage for the spikes. In theory it could be beneficial to have enough amperage to provide to the motors at any given time, you may be able to get more performance out of the motors, by having all that current available to the stepper. Is the 600w enough? For most cases, more than enough. If you want to push past 1000mm/s with 8 motors at 3 amps you might want more available to really squeeze out the performance.
This is really great info
So we were all right I think. Yes in theory you for sure want enough power to run everything at the max amperage. Will you reach that? Not without some stupid high speeds. Which is the point @deft egret was making. Unless you're going for breaking records, parts, and pushing insane amps. You're not going to notice a difference and will have tons of headroom with the 600w.
That makes sense. Plus at some point like we said earlier the plastic parts won’t be able to handle it anymore
What does this mean for me? Well I say let's screw around and find out. I truly want to push this for records, I want to test these theories out. I want actual data on my exact machine. So I'm going to run dual 600w to experiment, because I have a problem like that. Do I recommend it? 99% of the time no, shits gonna break, but that's the fun part to me. It's only ever useful for records and pure maximum performance.
So I guess it comes down to either giving yourself the headroom with a bigger power supply and maybe doing all metal parts later on to chase the records or just buying the 600w and being content
I’m gonna try that random brand and see how it goes 🤣🤣🤣
Hahaha yolo
I also could be full of shit, happy to admit that I've proven I'm no expert, and default to anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Facts worst case if it messes up I’ll buy a 600w and call it.
It’ll be fun to test it and see
I ordered my new belts, all the motors, and 5160T pro drivers last night 😎. Gonna order the rest today probably and hopefully start my build log sometime next week or the week after.
Stoked to see it come together! What are you printing the parts on? And what material
Probably my p1s or my sv08. My p1s usually does a really good job. I’ll be using ASA. I’m gonna do burnt titanium from ambrosia filament for the stepper towers and their dual color purple for the toolhead and frame braces probably 🤔. Both the colors on the page below.
Ambrosia Filament's line of ASA is part of our Low Calorie line of filament, no additives just butter smooth printing. Feed your Printer the Filament of the Gods. Dolos - the greek spirit of trickery and deception has implanted his work onto our next line of ASA filament. These filaments provide alternating color eff
Do itttt I got the rolls and haven’t opened them but mannnnn they look so sick
Stoked to see how your parts come out
I’ll defintley be doing a build log with lots of pictures and progress stuff. I’m so hyped too. Especially after seeing your build come together.
If I have any filament leftover I may use some of it to redo my enderxy 🤣. I did yellow abs but now I want a cooler color
It's been an absolute blast to build
For your beta build are you gonna do from scratch and have another printer or re-frame your current build? I’m thinking of doing one from scratch or maybe the mini-merc
It’ll be awhile for me though. My wallet meets some time to recoup 🤣
I haven't really decided yet tbh
I'm honestly thinking of asking if I can get the plus frame
Understandable tbh. I think I want to do a mini printer next but after that who knows lol
Then do a 400x400 idex merc and keep my current one for speed
Is the plus frame not out yet? Is it only the pro one
They're both on the dllpdf
Oh yeah you sent me links for them lmao
I have a sentimental attachment to this frame though which I know is dumb. So idk
I thought about swapping my plate for the 400 one but I can’t justify the cost for the extra build volume. If I did it from scratch I definitely would
I feel it. It’s my first printer so I kinda feel the same way
Same. I have a old wooden makerbot and I can't bring myself to strip it for parts, even though I know that it's just taking up space.
@boreal rose curious if you could read this post and the one following it and provide your thoughts, as someone who's pushing limits. We're talking about how big of a power supply is needed for 3 amp 8wd at 54ish watts
u can probs get sub 2m at that point with enough knowledge and learning
I've spent all day in the trenchs with tmc tuning, I know wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too much about stepper motors now
what else have u done for speed?
54v
what do you mean?
i would find it challenging to outrun 8wd on a well designed setup...
even on my taz (2wd on each axis) i have more to do before I outrun the hotend and def before motors
What do you mean by outrun?
rigidity, is, tmc, y axis redesign, sticfening, lw toolhead redesign, etc etc
the point where your gear is the limiting factor
Ohhh gotcha
I mean honestly I have made the frame as rigid as I think I can, I tuned the tmc's (think there is more room there still) everything is the absolutely lightest it can be, maybe I could loose the beacon for speed runs, and the fan for the heatbreak, everything is the best quality I could get(could get the 2.8 motors or 3 if they come out), 9mm, gt3 belts. Full heatsinks on every motor. I could maybe get up to 60v instead of 54, but other than that I am not sure what else to improve.
you shouldnt go past 48v on you standard controller board. 60v is headroom :p
kraken v2 motors are already out, so u can do that
are ur motors actually skipping? have you live tested the power output?
you can just hear em skipping
im surprised... @boreal rose whats ur input on this?
As in the motors skipping or the benchy time?
motors 🤔🤔
2:59, 3:03, 3:14
So right now it's the hotend.
CHT volcano should be here soon
I increased the amps on the motors and that's what got to those higher speeds
Heck yessss that’s so sweet! I need to get a .5 cht for speedboats I got a .4
Are you still gonna get the 2nd psu or just stick with the 600?
That looks so sick
Already installed 🙂
Have you noticed a difference? I got all my printers moved today into the new house. Tomorrow’s the rest of my crap then hopefully I’ll get started on mine sooooon 😎. Gotta place one more order
Actually testing that right now
So the craziest thing happened... I slipped and fell right on my keyboard. Somehow this happened.
I think I might have cooked these motors a bit, they have a super high pitched whine now lol
been there
oh I am just dumb, forgot about the tmc changes I made for the speed runs lmao. Been a long day.
@dense elbow i cooked my Honeybadger motors the other day. I just swapped to my ldo 2405s and metal stepper mounts and it's a huge difference. Those motors took a beating.
Did you push em past 2.5
@dense elbow
No, it was 2a I think?
Thing is I forgot to resetthe idle shutoff so the motors sat energized with 2a and no active cooling for close to 8 hours lol
I won't make that mistake again lol
The hibrid belt might be the weak point
Might need gt3 so it does not strech
The strech might cause delay between the awd and the hybrid and that might cause the layer shifts
Hmmmm so what you’re saying is I should go ahead and order more gt3 belts 😏
Well then some other time😂
Maybe
I mean I can order some 9mm ones 👀🤣 I’ll use the 6mm to rebelt my enderxy. I think 3 meters would be enough it’s smol
Would there be a benefit to 9mm?
What I am worried about is the printed parts not beeing strong enough
Probably negligible
And the printed parts might suffer, so its unlikely to work
Ahhh yeah that’s true. Do you think the 6mm ones would be fine?
Yes
I've run 150k at 1250 and the printed parts are still doing great
Pretty insane honestly
I ordered some gt3 6mm a bit ago too. You could see the vibration difference on the resonance tests
I also superglued the belts into the hybrid belt holder, the would slip at those super high speeds
Hasn't slipped since
Also update on the dual power supplies. I can't sustain high enough speeds to max out the 600w power supply. The max I got was 500w. However on the plus you might be able to hit those. But we're talking about 3A, 8wd, 1500mm/s + at a minimum of like 300mm moves or 200k+ acceleration to push past the 600w barrier. Which with the lrs rates for 150% in short bursts and the huge capacitors, means you'll never see those power draws realistically
I've got another sensor coming so I can actually graph the data digitally instead of just watching it
The only way I was able to get it that high is test speed macro but removing the small moves in the middle of the bed. So it was just doing the full bed size squares to hit max speed
Okay cool. I took the gamble on that random brand one so we’ll see how it goes 🤣. That makes sense I probably won’t ever hit it unless I swap to 3A motors for all 8. Maybe when the honey badger ones drop 🤔. That’s still insane
That looks so good! What sort of flow rates were you getting with tpu? I wonder how much faster a larger print would be 🤔
I got reliable extrusion up to 24
Thats wild. Did you see the 5 min tpu benchy? I think Vez3d did it on his vzbot
Edit: ima just leave this here…
Here is a little experiment with TPU. I have been asked by many people to print another speed benchy. My last benchy was printed in 3:39 here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayqIn-fYNA8 But I wanted to try with something more.... exotic. I tried to run the same 3:39 gcode, and it looked as bad as my old 3:39 benchy haha. So I wanted to have a s...
Damn!
The classic vz outro!! 🔥
I know you just ordered the krakens but I’m just gonna leave this here:
Nema 17 3A rated Classified steppers by HoneyBadger Open beta of our new 60mm long 3 amp rated motors, with 8mm thick shafts (requires 8mm pulleys located here) NSK bearings and 55 mm shaft length. Specs: 3 amp max rating, suggested 2-2.5 a with 5160 steppers 8mm thick 55mm long shaft 60mm long body with standard ne
I think im gonna pick up a set eventually and use my long shaft ones for hybrid later on if possible but for now I just want to get mine built lol
Those are the same ones I think just badged as honey badger
No
Oh really?
Custom
I think they’re a little different
Turtles design
Ooo
I want them but I literally just ordered my 4 motors for my AWD and they’re being delivered today. If I would’ve waited like 3 more days 🤣🤣
I’ll get next batch or when they fully release out of beta.
I want them too but I feel bad for making ormanello order the custom krakens if im not buying
Yeah im planning that too
I think just cause they’re in beta right now? Looks like normal price will be $55 ish?
No pelikan case or markup
So we have any data on those vs the kraken v2
I thought the v2 was a totally new design that's not out yet
the inductance is high
Plus I’d have to buy new pulleys and all that better to just get mine built first then upgrade later
2.3mH
They are
So it's possible they could put preform these? Just more expensive though
Idk
the higher the inductance the lower the speed
Theese should be better
Whats the inductance on the krakens vs honeybagers?
Well I ordered the last four in stock
Then I'll try them out against the kraken v2's when I get them
one sec, I posted the wrong graph
For how cheap they are I can use them on another build if the krakens are better
Do u have one with 20t pulleys
Yeah
this
yes, and high heat for the same torque
the 2804 have a lot of speed but low torque, heat and vfa`s
Yeah
We have any data on the kraken V2
Cant find the chart I had v1 vs v2
Ooooorrr hear me out. Use the krakens on AWD then use this for your AWD hybrid 👀👀
I was actually just thinking about that
turtles are different, so we need specs for those too
blue v1
Honeybadgers also have higher qc
Fixed
on paper they are the same as V1 kraken
but cheaper and better quality
How would u get lower inductance?
Classified
maybe different winding
thicker or thine wire, more or less turns
idk
less turns I guess
But wouldnt that loose tq?
Also where did u get those graphs from?
one sec
Thank you to David from Voron for help with the equations, @JoshMurrah for help testing and validating the model, and @JaredC01 for testing pulley sizes!
Follow me on Twitter:
https://twitter.com/eddietheengr
Excel Database Here:
https://github.com/eddietheengineer/documentation/tree/master/stepper_motor/data
Jared's Youtube Channel:
https://...
and for the motors that are not in the motor database, I put the values manually
Oh so those arent reall world tests
No it’s all just theoretical based on the specs of the motors
they are accurate enough, at least on my setup
the graph predicted that I can get 100mm/s 130k, and that was the limit on my setup
so within margin of error
I love the Dyno graphs lol
If you know the weight of the moving mass you can use the graph to see what you would gain with 48V or diferent motors
on the graph I tested for the 8WD setup
What sort of cooling do you run for your motors? Just heat sinks or active cooling too?
I think its like 180g
or more
on mercury?
heatsink on top and a 4025 sunon
also fmg
ye
Dope Ty
I have 1024g for the total moving mass
didnt see it go above 70c yet
if you measure you will be surprised too
That looks sick
the whole x-beam with joints and toolhead
oh wait u included the Y too
of course
that weight was only for the toolhead
that is 428g for me than
but the y is like 50g with the lw gantry idk about the rail and x joints but the fmg x joints are 10g lighter total than printed
for the graph you do the total weight divided by how many motors you have
takeoff?
it is more than you would expect
Im expecting like 450-550g
orbiter with toolboard and a dragon ace
oh wait I didnt include the rapido
than 600
yeah 500-650g imo
if you are bored one day could you test?
than, don't worry, we can get data from @dense elbow
This is my setup
is coming off soon
std6 is coming in a few days, and cpap is getting installed
what do u think is the heaviest part of it?
the toolhead and rail
what if I remove the belts lay it on its side and drop it on the scale🤔
the toolhead is 173 without the printed parts and rapido
I dont understand how, the motor alone is about 100g
40g for the hextruder
and 33g for the toolhead??
ah yeah no motor too
that is more accurate
93g for motor and 75 for rapido and toolhead board 15g you get 363g without the printed parts and fan
350 then
Ooo I remembered incorrectly
how is the toolhead only 40g??
maybe its 60
how much w motor?
36+ 86 for 17mm motor or 96 for 20mm motor
nema 14 pancake, correct?
Im planning on drilling holes in the front and back plates to loose some weight
dont?
why? you will lose a insignificant amount of weight
Speed holes
well its yours
did you get the gt3 6mm belts?
when are the kraken motors arriving?
I will send you the new tensioner for gt3 then
strange, the gt2 belt I have is the same thickness as the gt3
guys! did you know this thing exists?
Dang, that would make awd so much simpler.
GT6
What are these? 👀
Me tooooooo please lol mine are ordered
@deft egret if you ran those you would not be able to use any smooth idlers though, but if those can handle the same as a regular gt2 belt those are sweet. Iv never seen those.
Our dedication to continuous research and development has led to our most efficient rubber synchronous belts yet. Thanks to their dramatically reduced weight, our complete line of rubber synchronous belts are easier to install and replace. Say no to lubrication on metal wear. Say yes to increased energy efficiency.
Belt capacity is equal to standard single-sided PowerGrip™ timing belts.
@deft egret Ive never seen it done before, so in my opinion, get rid of your smooth idlers, add double sheer support, shorten your brlts, and lets get to racing 😎
I was not suggesting that its a good idea to use them, they might be expensive, I was just looking through gates products to find specs for gt2 and gt3 and this unicorn poped up as twin gt2, it looks wild🤣
I thought I'd share
If you look at them, they are 10 strand glass fiber, that is weaker then the 14 strands I used for gt2, so its a down grade from even gt2 much less gt3 9mm
I looked though other belts and found one that I thought at first was a dual sided belt with different tooth specs, but it just had ribs not teeth on one side
It does look wild. I find it useful for some personal projects. I didn't even know those existed that small.
Made some design changes
Fans come tomorrow, excited to try em out
Think I am going to call it arctic cube, since we have a lot of arctic circle restraunts out here lol
Fan is an enormous success, working on some changes for the mod, and then will post a formal writeup
Will work for any 40mm motor with 40x40x20 heatsinks
This is 30 min into a print running at 1.750 amps.
That's a 25C reduction, which in this case is literally HALF the temperature.
I'm redesigning the model though, trying to make it more sleek and reduce the amount of filament needed. Also working on making the fan grill a customized insert so people can put whatever they want.
Then I want to figure out something for the hybrid motors, they can't have as many heatsinks due to the bed and hybrid carriage, plus get cooked by the bed. So definitely room for improvement there.
It may be worth trying it without the heat syncs. The forced convection can do a lot of cooling.
yo! @dense elbow how did you get the vzbot printhead to work with 9mm belts/
Wonderful!
Sigh of relief
did you get the mellow zerog head or just the vzbot head?
Mello zerog
damn, they sell the vzbot one here in aus, I wonder if its just the belt path difference
found the pictures of both plates, left is the zerog and right is vzbot, vzbot has that extra hole on the right but the zerog just has cutouts in the middle to make it more lightweight
If you look the holes a a little different, I would not risk it for 4g less weight
the less weight one is the zerog one
weird, on the ali page it shows the zerog one is the left one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006065205076.html
They must've had like 3 versions, here's @hazy hatch's different again ahaha
That's what mine looks like
does it have these cutouts though or does it have the extra cutouts above that?
Different belt attachment
@dawn patio the zerog is mgn12, vzbot is mgn9, the zerog is taller and longer from front to back. The vzbot one and zero g also have different belt paths so they are not interchangeable at all. I think the only similar part is the dancing man fan mount and cpap support mount.
There are four versions of it. Vzbot, ZeroG, RatRig, and Hevort.
Doesn't the ratrig use MGN12?
I'm using 9mm belts and attaching them like @dense elbow
I dunno about the ratrig tbh never looked into it.
Two things!
Firstly, gonna just plop these sexy things into here for you to look at 😱
https://discordapp.com/channels/747612067951018075/1241969023265148938
Secondly, this isnt the best idea. the Mercury toolhead is designed to use those belt slots for a simple reason: they align with the belt path
When your belts dont align with the belt path, as you move your toolhead back and forth, your belt tension changes. Try it. bring your toolhead close to one end of the rail, then to the middle. youll notice a bit of a change in resistance
The VZ bot version will not work with your mercury one.1
the vzbot uses a completely different setup and has belts on the back AND front
not only that, but offsets are different
Thanks! I appreciate it 😊 Il get the mellow CNC head
*mellow zero G CNC head
I'm sure that can make a small difference but honestly it's been printing since I built it with absolutely flawless prints, and broke the speed record, so it's def sufficient IMO.
Def printing those belt clips tho, much sexier
have you posted and gotten a confirmed submission?
Not yet, I have the classified motors coming Monday so was gonna wait because I know I can go faster.
Plus the CHT volcano came that I need to install
Speaking of which, @deft egret have you been able to start the 8mm shaft AWD? 😊
classified? under NDA?
Noooo the turtle honey badger "classified" motors
ah, you going beta testing?
Yeah, I have those coming and the kraken v2's
excited for kraken v2s 👀
precurssor said he had bad luck w them tho
btw, incase youd like it, Im designing 9mm belt mod for vz toolhead, so just an fyi
That I would love! Def want to do it properly
Just wanted to say it can work if needed!
in your head will be printing them out for me and testing
I dont have a cnc toolhead, just wanted to do it cuz I hear a lot of ppl want it
Oh I printed those actually
I found em posted
But then forgot
So I wrapped around and it worked great
Also gridfinity is amazing
I wanna start using gridfinity
I've been loving it so far
You can ping me when you want them, they only take 20min
Motors got delayed to Friday so would like to print them Thursday if possible
😍 as in something that replaces the spacers or a new belt clip?
it replaces the standoff
dont count on it too much. Youll likely have to get this SLM metal printed and Im not yet sure if it works
though I do have a guy testing it out for me
@dense elbow actually, would you mind printing them out and fitting them onto your setup for testing?
Is it done In mm's or inches?
Reasonable 😊
@thorn crown also thank you very much! Even though it is for many people I appreciate it 😁
It's like $4 more for 4 of them so il have a spare set 😊
woah woah
print it out first.
that will cost a lot less
this was a complete rough attempt
I was looking more for feedback...
Ahahah that was just to get an idea of cost, Im not buying it yet
Alrighty. just making sure 😅
I did one like this already but I was concerned whether it was thick enough to hold the tension of a 9/10mm belt.. I manually adjusted the belt mounts in the stock brackets as well.. Maybe the SLM part will be stronger than the mellow part because the mellow aluminium is actually quit soft. I will be using a modified stand-off in mine with two m3 screws almost meeting in the middle of it.
What do you mean by meeting In the middle of it?
one screw fastening the stand-off to the top plate screwing into the threaded stand-off almost half way through and the other through the bottom plate and into the other end of the standoff the same distance.. That way the stand-off is also strengthened by the scews.. Does that make sense?
Yes, I understand, that makes sense, do you think that'd be stronger?
I do think so, yes, I can't bend an m3x5 stand-off by hand but I can sure bend the mellow belt mount bracket which I did when I was removing it from the jig I used to try to adjust it for the 10mm belts I am using on Merc 2.. and I was able to straighten it too.
I will await the feedback from others but ive got the printhead ordered so wel see
But there's 3 options for 9mm now so I'm happy with that
Make it thicker
Sure thing
Alright, we're going to try 6mm gt3, 20t, with the 8mm HB Classified motors.
Because I'm too impatient to wait till Monday
You're lucky you have a monopoly for online shopping with insane delivery Amazon..... Otherwise I would.. ok let's be real... We all still use Amazon in the US
theyre not classified lol 🤫
Hector has them public on his channel!
its an open beta hehe
ohhhh never noticed that detail
Also weighed all the x axis components
Which as @deft egret said, means there is less than 100grams per motor
Running the beefiest motors you can get (nema 17) that is
@dense elbow @deft egret out of curiousity, why dont you run ZeroG CNC or vz printed toolhead?
ah, right. mb lol
go all aux cooling, remove the toolhead, and just leave the goliath on there
bowden configuration
I honestly prob don't need the heat break cooling tbh
At that point though you only get speed, you lose all the quality stuff
I mean if you were after benchys you could also get a tiny linear rail lol
nah. watercooling is for 100c chambers
it adds too much weight
ahh okay
@obtuse field btw, what is your pfp?
i honestly cant even remember the name of it but it's the face of some character from a disney tv show i think? I pulled it from a meme that had it and just zoomed in lmao
Edit: my gf told me it's from lazy town and his name is Stingy lol
i need to change it lol will probably put it to a pic of my dog
you could set your pfp as your printer 🤔 ]
true once i get it built i probably will. it's all dissasembled and dirty lol
I don't think it'd add much, I'd say it reduce, the Vzbot config removes the heartbreak and bolts into the extruder with its waterblock right?
no. it keeps bots and heatbreak
it just adds watercooling
It removes the heatbreak from the hotend
That bolts into the extruder
The other version of the hotend has a waterblock which adds weight
its still there alright
its just now in the frame
in this instance, it might be worth it
yeah I guess the heatbreak tube is there but it removes the heatsink around it
But that said, @dense elbow does the hotend need a lot of cooling in your experience?
I think modern Ti heatbreaks have reduced the need for cold end cooling drastically. I think most water cooling will be "heavy" because it's easier to contain the water with aluminum and bolts, than a "light" solution.
That does make sense, titanium being an absolute crapload less heat conductivity
*having
Honestly I don't think it needs the fan at all
So I have significantly less vibrations with 6mm belts somehow?
Oh really? How much less?
You’re still using 20T unless the 8mm shaft compared to 5mm makes that much of a difference 🤔
Yeah y axis seems a little more at the higher hz.
Still those recommended numbers are insane lol
I can't get higher than 850 speed, but I can do 850 speed with 250k accel
Prob need those 30t pullys
So 20t, 4xHB Classified 2.75A, 4x2504ah 2A, 6mm belt = 850mm/250k
Definitely need 9mm belts, even with proper tension under crazy acceleration you can see it stretching
Going for a sub 3 the belts just can't hang
Damn. I mean I kinda figured I wouldn’t hit sub 3 on the plus anyways so 6mm will still be fine
I’ll do 9mm on my enderxy when I awd it 🤔
so 6mm is stil fine for a hybrid system?
For most people absolutely
Although I think it would show more benefits for plus
Since the belt paths are so long
I would take 9mm belt but my toolhead doesnt support it
For a pro unless you're chasing records, I don't think so.
I'm def gonna go back to 9mm though
For sure
I'm currently printing the hybrid parts for 6mm belts to add to the 9mm full metal gantry on a plus, so it'd be interesting to see if there is a benefit
Do you have a link to the cpap mount that you used? I found the box style one but I think I want to use one like yours where it just bolts to the extrusion.
Sorry I meant for the bottom mount to the 2020 extrusion
Oh!
Yeah all the ones I found were like a box enclosure for it and I may do that eventually I just wanna bolt it to the frame for now
Same repo just diff place
@dense elbow what became of the SCS fan with your build? Did you end up finding something that was similar that could Work?
I haven't yet, honestly with the CPAP I don't think its even needed
I run my cpap at 30% for pla with plenty of cooling
I will get around to it at some point, but not a priority atm
Priority for now is figuring out how to active cool the hybrid motors
Also switching back to 9mm belts with 30t pullys
Coppee heatsinks
*copper
NASA did it
Sweet thank you
Well what does nasa know about anything? /s
That is a pretty cool idea
Man actually that could be amazing for chambers
You could pump in cool outside air and then exhaust it super easily.
Yeah man imagine what the air blower is
Mellow Vzbot does have water blocks for steppers but it'd need a pump rad combo
*and res
Oh damn, yeah I saw ultem on craftcloud
Tell me this a bad idea or is maybe clever?
For a 2504 as well
I looked at those actually, I didn't think they would be worth it for noise reduction, The shroud was nice but my testing showed that I got unbelivable cooling with the huge heatsinks and 80mm fans, so without space to worry about I went that direction
This is a nice solution for beta's though where you need to stay enclosed
Could work nicely for hybrid but I am going to chase after the nasa shroud design
Ahaha! I tried a reverse image search, start there
I think I am going to design a new system that uses a cpap and a manifold.
Yeah I guess that may have the static pressure to create enough cooling across them, maybe a channel enclosed along the sides like the NASA one but thin 8mm copper heatsinks to soak heat and CPAP to extract
Yeah, I am very intrigued, especially for high temp chambers
Yeah for sure
That could be way more effective
I am sure you could get the same if not better performance with 10mm copper vs 20mm alu
Yeah similar I'd say aluminium is 237 W/mK vs 401 for copper
ANother optionb
This would be better but yeah
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK51UpH
Oh didn't even know they made those
Yeah, That's how the Vzbots run, they even have driver waterblocks lol
Fun project on this one. We designed some cooling plates for nema17. Before you say this is useless and not needed if you don't have a high temp enclosore and that motors can take 180c on the AH version and 130C on the version I run (yes you are right ..but)... remember I do stupid things here on this chanel and pushing things their limits. Wh...
That's where vez does it
He runs a loop and the radiator in the backing of his printer and loops in his Goliath, steppers, drivers and his first born son
Goddamnit why did I tell you? Now with your uranium dealer money youl buy them and have them by tomorrow meanwhile I need to wait until next pay and I'm jealous
Harumph
Yeah vz’s being water cooled is super cool
Idk if I’d ever do water cooling but it’s so sick
You get a free beta tester!
I would need to move the electronics to a backpack for watercooling
Wouldn't want them underneath everything being water cooled lol
I am gonna go the air route first, see how that does
why not make a backpack for watercooling?
I still worry about leaking
So I would want to move everything out of the way
Lost a GPU to a pinleak hole once, so I am paranoid about it now
Luckily corsair compped it since it was their waterblock
After some fighting
Well you could do an air leak test before you put water in
Oh for sure, I just worry about over time. The pinhole leak started like a year after inital install. So I would just need to keep an eye on it. But still gets me worried lol
Yeah the leaks like that are very rare coming from someone that works in IT and prior to that PC stores
But I can understand the hesitancy, you could put a little moat around them ahaha
Make them castles
Actually that's not crazy
Funnily enough I do work for a bank, our z16 mainframe is fully liquid cooled, its sooooooooooooooooooooooooo cool.
All servers are starting to head that way it seems, just so much more efficient.
And by bank you mean federal reserve and by that you mean the printing press
You already know too much
What is your address? Asking for the drone, I mean friend.
Yeah I work at a government training institute and they have dumb money and the server room at the new campus has under floor cooling, imagine a cpap but it's the floor
I love it but it's confusing me
It is so desensitizing, our z16 was 10+ million. They're like oh we will take two, so we can have a back up.
It's so straight but also rainbow so also so gay (im gay I can say that)
Yeah that's always a bad idea, I am literally paid as onsite support to avoid that very thing
That's the only reason why I had to learn 3d printing, to install them and how to use the software / install for the mark forged metal and the 3d scanner, I just have to learn things on the fly because they don't pay support
I would love that tbh, sounds exciting, but stressful af at the same time.
Everytime we have an issue, and are activly fixing it, high ups are like CALL THE VENDOR. Such a waste, but then again not my money so as long as my paycheck shows up, knock yourself out lol
i hate working with vendors
i have to all the time at work and they're always clueless with how to support their apps.
"Are you running the latest version?"
"Have you made any config changes from OOB?"
Yeah it's fun, since the training institute is like 10000 different areas theres alot
Yes, oh sorry can't help you, not supported
We have special government contracts that basically leave it to us
either that or they say the issue isn't on their side and it's something on our side. 99% of the time it's their issue lol
so frustrating
I had support call me once asking me a question, super cool dude, he was like look, you know this database for our app better than we do.
i love that lmao it's like oh? how much do you pay??
Exactly that, I am now a consultant for that vendor. lmao UNO REVERSE
Basically it's like polar opposites with in house IT vs MSP consultants, in house basically don't want to do anything but have to and get paid anyway regardless, consultants will overdo work because you trust them and then get more money
Yeah working In consultancy and now government, government are surprisingly super super strict on spending despite what taxpayers think
BUT when a politician comes in
"I promise X and X and X for my political party" cool thanks man, I guess that means more money for IT because the US want their subs here? Sure
Yeah gov is interesting.... Banks are weird too because they are by definition made of money, and in the US once you are "too big to fail" they stop caring about spending, as long as regulations are met, and stock holders are happy, the rest of the money is just fun coupons, it's wack tbh.
I can't complain too much though, it's given me a great life so far.
Lucky man ahaha, I get ok money and I love the 5 weeks paid leave but Itd be nice to have money to spend on this printer lol
Like a little extra
I'm to the point where i want my printers to pay for themselves, but my impulse control completely disagrees with that statement lol
I have a UHP-1000-24 I'll donate to this cause if you need it, @dense elbow
I'm catching up on all these messages so I don't know how far back that was discussed. 😅
Haha not sure where you're at
Me either anymore
There is a ton in here lol
Either way, free PSU for you if you need it, I have 2... for some reason... 😆
I appreciate the offer, I think I am set for the time being! Thank you!
I am a single man charity
I have a design I am pretty stoked about, I am almost done designing an enclosure that uses all the stock parts(with the addition of a few more extrusions, and has a "top hat" on a hinge you can open.
Scalable for the plus?? 👀
Should be
Hmmm I may just have to enclose mine then
I've been debating on getting a dedicated abs machine cause I've been having issues with that ASA I got. I think it was just cause it was a specialty filament though cause normal abs/ASA is a breeze. If I can just enclose the Merc though I'll use that for future projects
I have one of those creality tents but that's not as pretty as a built in enclosure
It has a ways to go, but the spirit is there I think. Only needs 4 2020x500mm, and 4 2020x200mm extrusions. Should scale without a problem to plus.
Looks great! Yeah doesn't seem too bad and looks like it'll get the job done
Whelp time to buy a CNC for the acrylic panels lolol
I am trying to use sizes you can buy
So its super easy
a couple more extrusions and you have a backpack too. It's practically begging for it.
That would finally give me enough room for everything too
Plus the water cooling
Id recommend BETA frame. its more rigid than the stock one and will help u improve speeds
NO
I REFUSE
Haha jk, beta frame is coming in plus size
I wanna do this for my pro, because why not, plus I really wanna keep the frame for sentimental reasons.
wait is the pro or plus the speedy one?
Logically, that makes sense.
I really wanna try something diff though, something I worked on, using most of the OG frame though
That is the fun part for me
Engineering something new
Adding these extra extrusions will also stiffen up the frame a bunch too
you can use all the parts from the 8wd for Idex
That is the plan!
I should post it for Idex too
the only thing is you need a custom plate for eva toolhead
But I would go for a toolchanger more than Idex
I think IDEX will be stage 1
Tool changer stage 2
Alll the parts can get reused so can't hurt
IDEX is super easy to add in comparison IMO
I was working on one a while back. Made a really cool toolhead and it worked to an extent, but I dropped the project to restart design. maybe I should come back to it
Theres already a mod for it
I'll abandon tool changing my sv08 to toolchange the merc lol or do it after.
I am really liking this design
Keeps the electronics bay and adds a backpack
10 extra extrusions, which on amazon is $65
Also allows the front to slide forward 10mm, allows front hybrid bracing, and rear stepper motor support.
Prob will redeisgn again knowing me but I think there is alot of potential here
Is it crazy for me to want to have the electronics bay on drawer slides?
no. its a really cool idea
My Taz has a tiny electronics enclosure which I had the idea of doing that so I can stuff in more things while making maintanance easy
but I couldnt find any ones that were short enough and extended enough :(
It looks like I can get 500mm slides that would I guess slide out 500mm
Also has anyone used server delta fans for the enclosure? Like they're basically used in the same scenario with blade servers and then if it was modified could even utilise a 2u server rack on slides
yes
You may need two separate drag chains. Thermistors and i2c wires do not like running next heater bed wires.
really? I knew about i2c/ general data transfer but not thermistor. why so?
@thorn crown some thermistors are very sensitive to electrical noise.
interesting. I new knew
Who's design is this?
me
no
I made it in the early stages of BETA since I wanted my electronics to be in the back
and theres more room
I still need to do a bunch of stuff to get it working tho
plus. I wont be sharing the design unfortunately
just remember. rigidity is the most important
@thorn crown it reminds me of 247 printings v0
I will tomorrow
@dense elbow i tried for a very long time to come up with a belted z. I hate leadscrews but it's quite a challenge to overcome.
I saw this and it got me curious
So are you going to adapt that to Hydra or just use that then?
I would adapt hydra
dont you have them front the old stepper towers?
I have the rear done
ooooo
So. Much. ROOM
the power supplys and ssr in the bottom and the rest in the back
yus
that'd look so clean
Most of the thermistors change resistance per degree temp. So they are measured by running power through them and measuring the voltage drop from the thermistor. For an example where it maters we can look at a 100k thermistor. At room temp 1°C changes the resistance from 100kΩ to 96kΩ but at 100°C 1° changes 6.81kΩ to 6.61kΩ. So at high temps it gets harder to measure, so electrical noise can mess the signal up. The caveats are heater beds heat so slowly you can average the noise out(hot ends less so). It takes a big source to make interference (like a 20A bed heater turning on and off)
3mm or 6mm acrylic?
coolio
Alright, this is using standard sizes I could find on amazon for the acrylic, so only 4 cuts are needed, one sheet in half, another horizontal at 4in, then cnc for the top and bottom of merc OG electronics enclosure.
I know those gaps need some love, which are the parts I am designing now 🙂
Although I do have a cnc, I wanna try and make it as easy as possible if others want to do the same 🙂
Sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
We going all out on water cooling
there is no other way
240mm raditior, 10 way mainfolds, control valves for each lane, watercooled extruder to save some more weight, temp sensors for input and output, all the goods.
sounds like a new money pit
Always!
wc goliath? 👀
yes, and motor cooling
For up coming 2000mms challeng, trying to give my printer all the possible power to push plastic as fast as possible. Water cooling the extruder motor will allow me to crank up current !
Alu Water cooling blocks: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dn5w5yn
Fittings: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEVthxH
Complete water cooling kit: https://s.c...
Oh wait
Not that one
In this one I am assembling the setup and putting it to the test. FYI, no it is not ready to sell, neither are the helical gears. I don't have a date yet. I want to fully test this guy first and beat it. I expect it to be ready in March 2023 maybe.
-We will have Vz-Hextrudort spare parts, helical gear sets, LOTS of Goliath with spare parts for w...
This one
Belted like the Vzbot setup? Or without lead screws?
Ooh! Double shear!
Without lead screws
Interesting, also when you get the radiator if it's gonna be 240mm make sure that the metals are the same ie. Aluminium with aluminium or copper to copper, otherwise you may or will likely have galvanic corrosion
You may also be fine with a single 120 tbh, or a thicker 120 rad
Good call! Got aluminum everything to keep it simple.
And just make sure you have the right fittings and inlet size, I think they utilise thinner diameter tubes and M5 for fitting threads
Also if you have a wife/husband, tell them I'm sorry 😆
Now I just need to see if there's enough clearance for me to add double shear to the hybrid steppers using all metal gantry
Yeah 6mm for the motors and extruder, running 3/8 between pump,res,rad, manifold, then 6mm everywhere else.
Plan is Res G1/4-3/8 -> Pump G1/4-3/8 -> Rad G1/4-3/8 -> 10 Way Manifold G1/2(inlet is huge, same pipe though)-3/8 -> Ball Valve Per Motor G1/4-6mm -> Motors M5- 6mm -> Second 10 Way Manifold G1/4-6mm -> G1/2-3/8 Res
Does that make sense
She's more or less immune at this point lmao
I would run regular PC coolant and it should mater a lot less what the loop is made of
Got Corsair Coolant
I almost went full Corsair because I am a hoe for Corsair
Those prices though for a printer cooling loop lol
Was looking at thermaltake but they want $40 for turquoise
I saw vez used it too so I was like scoreeeee
They do have mellow kits too for rad res pumps
@dense elbow for my watercooling setup I plan to do 12mm from pump to manifold, 4mm id to motors, 2.5mm id to hotend, then from return manifold do 12mm to the rad, then 12mm to pump. Dunno if thats optimal but it should work. Even if I gotta bump the in and out to 16mm. The 2.5mm id hose running to my steppers currently do a good job of getting the heat away, but I'm probably going to bump them to 4mm id. I might also switch to 4mm id for the hotend as well but everyone seems to be running the 2.5mm id to the goliath wc and it works fine.
Anyone every tried a 3d printed water cooled heatsink?
Two weeks for motor cooler mounts has me itching to try something else lol
No, I think it is pretty much a waste of plastic
The plastic isolates a lot I think, especially in the thickness needed to make it waterproof
most 3d printed objects arent waterproof, and most plastics are a lot less thermally conductive than aluminum or copper
could you cnc one?
Soo I'm gonna try something, I designed a water shroud where the water flows around the sides of the motor, with o rings on top and bottom, then made a catch can for leaks lol
Gonna try it because why not
one sec before u design this
try something like that. make sure that if you print in something like ABS, you make the walls watertight using acetone (even this wont make it 100% watertight, you should look into getting a material that is watertight), and also, make sure you make your infill 100%
That's the exact design I was referencing haha
@dawn patio showed that a while back and it's what started this whole thing
Frame mods mostly done, backpack is a go.
Yeah the gotdamng NASA patent, somewhere there is a guy on a discord I found that SLM printed a wrap around water block Il find
thats a patent?
@dense elbow
Is that your setup!?
lol I wish, its from the VZbot watercooling channel, looks like good inspiration though
They're basically talking about a similar setup to what you're wanting to do as we speak for that guy
I ike how this one runs the water all along the bottom, but its a really clean setup hey
That is a little too clean for my abilities and patience hahaha
Myabe one day
I love that setup though
Amazon to the rescue again 😎
how much did those cost?
8 for the 2 pack
so 4 a piece
Honestly, might work better than the stepper ones becuase you can put them on the sides
I think that would extract more heat, but just a guess
mewants.
wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy cheaper
crap now yall are getting me into this territory 😂
idk if ZeroG is a bad influence for making me spend all my money or a good one for making me learn good stuff
yes
I need to lay off before I actually invest my money into this
Yeahhhhh..... I added up what I have spent so far. It's a lot. A lot a lot.
Lets just say I could have bought a prusa 5 tool
hit me
Over 2000 just for the enclosed so far. I have the actual to the penny number written in my office at home lol
It adds up FAST
Im somewhere over $5k for this hobby
Loool if I count all my other machines I'm well over 5000 as well haha
I like resin printing for the prints, I like fdm for the machines lol
aw dang Im not the highest impulse spender here. what a shame 😔
Told my wife it's cheaper than crack, I think
@thorn crown it's not a competition hahaha. Sometimes I look back and think of all the other stuff I coulda done with that money lol
Im 17. Not much better i can do at this age 😂
and I didnt mean it as a competetion. it was more sarcastic hehe
Damn, I'm old enough to be your Dad. Lol. When I was your age the rep rap project wasn't even a sparkle is someone's eye. I was blowing money on race cars (or what we thought we race cars)
Ive been designing printers since I was 12. its what got me into engineering and essentially started my life being a useful human to our society. thats why Im so obsessed with it
I wish there was 3d printers back then. Big companies like Stratasys were the only ones. I saw a giant stratasys machine once in like 2012? It produced the most awful prints i have ever seen. It cost them 250,000 to buy. .
I am just a degenerate with a spending problem
Imma full grown adult with too much money to spend apparently lol
In order of spending.
: RENT
: FOOD
: KIDS
: GF
: 3d printer
: 3d printer
: 3d printer
: motorcycle.
And star wars toys
I just realized I defintley could’ve if you factor in my other printers on top of my build… probably 2 5 tools 🤣
I keep telling myself this is the last printer (zerog) but I already want 2 more ☠️.
@deft egret
Sooooo
I think I am going to mount all the valves on the side like so, would make a nice place to control any of the flows
I shouldn't need them on the return manifold for each line right? Just the distribution one?
I am actually thinking of two options, move all the cooling to the bottom and electronics to the back, or keep all the electronics in the bottom and keep the back to all coolling, which I am kinda leaning
www.creedthoughts.gov.www\creedthoughts
I already have everything wired , I think If I shift the power supplies that will give me plenty of room for everything
Plus then I can look at the controller from the front of the printer, which I love being able to do.
Only problem is that puts the fans for the power supplies directly under the water cooling stuff. So those will need to get moved.... Hmmmm
If there is a cad for it I can port it to the mercury
their kickstarter is dropping soon. depending on the price i may do it lol
Alright decided on the backpack design
Actually super happy with how everything fits
It will let me really focus on cleaning up the electronics bay and making it look nice
Plus all leak points are away from the power supplies. Thinking of adding a catch can in this area with a water sensor that can trigger alerts.
Designed it so the "Top Hat" can be removed, thinking about putting it on a hinge too so you can lift the whole lid up to work on it or grab parts. Maybe with some lil shocks to help lift and hold it.
Remember that youl want to have you res above your pump if you don't already have a pump res combo in mind or if you tilt it
It's mounted under the res connected to the manifold directly
This could be a good setup too, from the maker bogans discord on their AWD fourbie build
And if you're interested @deft egret this could be good inspiration or to get ideas
https://github.com/MakerBogans/Fourbie
theyre having fun with 3d sketches lol
Whelp ruined one of the honeybadgers trying to get the old pully off
idk wtf happened to that pully put it welded to the shaft
Trying to hammer it off, it pulled the shaft out of the motor
Going to try a hybrid setup now, 3a on the back, with the 2504 on the front, maybe that will speed? lol
Whelp not really happy with how it all turned out. Not enough space for the fittings. I honestly don't think I need valves for each one after thinking about it more. Also I can run 3 40x40 cooling plates on each motor, on the sides which should suck out more heat, and is magnitudes cheaper. (Even though I already ordered the plates)
So going to go back to the drawing board for this one
It looks great, I kinda want to do a backpack now, do you have the cad file for your backpack?
Are you running a plus or pro? I can't remember
Got everything wired back up
Definitely happier with the extra room and wiring
Going to finish cleaning up the wiring and testing everything, then on to water-cooling again
Plus, it'd be different but I can adapt it
Basically all you need to do is extend the 4 front to back extrusions. So I went from 410mm to 500mm.
Also where did you get those corner braces?
Amazon
What be the listing? I can see the little ones but those are bigger
Ahhh, gotcha, could be an excuse to get new extrusions too, they're so cheap here, one plus of Perth, we have a local supplier
Yeah I just extended those, and then actually used the extrusions I replaced for the top hat design
Worked out really nice.
Super super happy with it
Oooooo
Wow those are expensive in Australia, basically $5.7 each
I found these for $2.15 each though, Il give em a shot
So this looks different than before. Did you switch how the power switch was wired up? Gonna be wiring mine all up today hopefully so just trying to make sure I get everything right xD
Yeah! I got these din power distributers
Then the same for 24v and 54v
Much cleaner
Amazon link? 👀👀👀. I may as well wait a day or two and use these 🤔
Yeah that looks much cleaner. I think I’m gonna do 3 din rails in the bottom with a staggered approach for running cables currently.
The power inlet is still wired directly to the psu’s input then daisy chained right?
edit I think that’s the first pic lol I’m starting to get it now. My brain is moving slow this morning
Not anymore, it goes straight that block now. Then there are individual outputs to each power supply
Plus the bed
So power switch -> block -> input terminals on the psu’s
Then psu output -> block -> each board respectively
Yup!
Sweet thank you!
Tell me how the new towers fit
One day shipping is so nice 🤣
When you get to it
"So dangerous
Facts 🤣