E5Pro to M1.1/EVA3/Hydra/ERCF

[cyan gyro]

Run it in low speed

[sharp valve]

Oh ok, yeah, I'll do that

[cyan gyro]

There are printed drill guides out there as well

4-5mm hole works well

4mm can work if your drilling is perfect

5mm gives more wiggle room

[sharp valve]

Oh ok, yeah, I have a ton of 5mm screws, that'd be perfect

[cyan gyro]

6mm will nick the sides of the slot, but still fine

Misumi specs 7mm holes

The hole is just wrench access

[sharp valve]

Do I need a step drill bit?

[cyan gyro]

No, just a through hole

The stock frame uses through bolts

Blind joints use button heads inside the slot

[sharp valve]

Oh right, that makes sense, of course a step bit doesn't make sense for through holes, I didn't think much about that

[sharp valve]

Drill ordered, looks like it'll let me replace my shitty electric screwdriver and dremel too

[round oracle]

nah dremel is good for other things

if you're adding blind joints do the whole frame, it's worth it

[sharp valve]

it's one of those $10 'rotary tool' kits off Amazon, but yeah I guess it isn't taking up so much space

[sharp valve]

yep, that's the plan, would be pointless to not just do the whole frame since I'd have to take it apart anyway

[cyan gyro]

dremels are loud, they have their place. But I rarely use mine

[round oracle]

definitely loud

[sharp valve]

yeah, my main use for it has been sanding and cleaning up holes in prints, tried using it to cut acrylic and also a bit of aluminum, was super loud, and obviously didn't really do much on the latter

worked surprisingly well for drilling holes in the acrylic though, as long as I didn't try to push it through

[round oracle]

I somehow managed to cut some 3 or 4mm steel but went through quite a few cutting disks, angle grinder would have been better but I don't have one and for a single job wasn't worth it

[cyan gyro]

hand files work really well, easy to control, and quiet

[round oracle]

didn't think about that 😅 but I'll keep it in mind

[sharp valve]

I used it to sand down the dowel pins for mercury, went through all of the included sanding drums, but the separate set of drums I got seems to be much better, didn't even get through one to do the pins for the metal towers

[round oracle]

even though noise isn't a problem for me

now that I think about it, mine be good to do some cleanup on the metal stepper towers

[cyan gyro]

a cordless drill, and some hand sand paper work much better to get the pins down to size

using a dremel sounds terrible for that

[sharp valve]

yeah, that would have been a lot easier, using a dremel for it was not fun

[sharp valve]

realigned that part of the frame and tried seeing if reduced belt tension makes the issue go away, it does not

so next, I figured I'd try to rule out any issues with the motion system alignment, but those seem fine too

going to see if I can find the old belts to try putting those in

oddly it only seems to increase at either x max or y max, but at x max and y max it's fine again

oh actually I suppose that potentially makes sense since each stepper handles diagonal movement

yeah, the diagonal path those form is for when only the other stepper moves, so the behavior makes sense

[cyan gyro]

I have found that once the belts wear like that, they will never track straight

[sharp valve]

yeah I just came across that digging around in the voron subreddit, looks like I have just enough 2MGT to replace that side

if that fixes it, what happened is that when I had the plastic stepper tower snap, it had grinded down a part of the belt

at the time I just cleaned the fuzz off and assumed it'd be fine

[cyan gyro]

I had this on my first 5 plus build and busy ignored it until u got stiff to replacing parts

And noticed it still tracked the same

Replaced the belts and it ran great

[sharp valve]

yeah looks like it might've been the problem, the undamaged belt stays in place

[sharp valve]

well at this point I might as well just blind joint everything anyway, especially since I have the apartment to myself

[sharp valve]

Drill arrives tomorrow, will print out the appropriate guides tonight, planning out where I need to make holes

So far, there are the two I'll need from the top on each y axis piece

The rear hydra arm

And maybe for the stepper towers

Oh and maybe I can make the middle tnut on the metal stepper towers usable too by rotating the extrusion and joining it to the frame via a plate

Does anything on the bottom part of the frame need it?

[cyan gyro]

Need it? No. But I think it's worth doing the entire frame

Then you can ditch all the stock brackets

[sharp valve]

Ah what I mean is are there points that aren't already blind jointed in the bottom? I can't think of any, I guess I should just check the cad

yeah looks like the bottom is already fully done?

[cyan gyro]

ohh might be

been awhile since I looked at the stock setup

[sharp valve]

yeah, I think the only hole on the bottom I need to make would be for the rear hydra arm

also finally clicked that I was misunderstanding what a blind joint is, when you say misumi specs 7mm holes, I guess you mean that the joint itself is still made using an m5 screw, but that the hole has an extra 1mm of tolerance relative to that

[cyan gyro]

with a blind joint, the "blind" hole is just tool access to be able to tighten/loosen the screw

vs how creality did through bolt holes with counterbores

misumi drills extra wide holes

[sharp valve]

yeah finally just watched a video of what it's supposed to look like

makes complete sense now, yeah, it'd be best if I took apart the entire frame to do this

[round oracle]

do the whole thing you might need to rotate some extrusions

[sharp valve]

now I understand why you suggested rotating the rear extrusion and blind jointing it to be able to use the middle stepper tower hole

[cyan gyro]

yeah the button heads would just slip through the counterbores, no lip left for them

[sharp valve]

yeah

[sharp valve]

Printed a couple of jigs, would disassemble the printer immediately but too tired

[sharp valve]

Ugh, god I hate this dorm so much

Was busy working so didn't get to pick up the package from the mailroom during normal hours, but that's normally fine because they use a locker system anyway

Only this time the scanner is busted so I can't get into the room, and the office just tells me to wait till tomorrow -_-

I swear they act like everyone has all the time in the world

[round oracle]

wait you don't?

[sharp valve]

Lol

Over this past year, they've had me move 4 times unscheduled and acted like I was being unreasonable asking for some estimated date for when the scheduled moves were

It's a graduate dorm too, so it's weird that they behave like as long as it's over summer, the resident has free time to deal with their crap

I guess this latest thing is relatively mundane in comparison, those times they were basically expecting me to be immediately available to move while I was already having to spend most of my waking time preparing for conferences

The latest set of shit is that I have to clean up after the former flatmates didn't clean up their junk in the common area, all because I happened to be the last one to move out

Oh and on top of all this, the rent is stupidly high, $1.1k for a small room with no AC

Well that's enough ranting, I'm going to go try again or find something else to do rather than laying in bed and seething

[round oracle]

gotta love how everyone somehow seems to think students have infinite time for everything 😬

[sharp valve]

Yep

[sharp valve]

was able to pick up the drill this morning, tried making some holes in a junk piece of extrusion

works, but feels like I'm doing something wrong since it took a lot more effort than it looks like in videos

tested with some drilling+tapping bits and looks like they should work fine for say, directly mounting the stepper towers to the frame without tnuts

[sharp valve]

Some more practice holes, got a hang of it now I think, bit of dish soap as lube, slowly at first then gradually speeding up

Lol tried tapping the end of an extrusion but snapped the bit 😅

So that probably means no directly screwing the towers into the frame yet, but that can be done later, would want to print out appropriate jigs for that anyway, for now I'll just focus on blind jointing

[cyan gyro]

Spiral flute taps work the best

Wd40 for lube

[sharp valve]

Ok I'll go for those

Blind jointing test went well, so now I can start taking the printer apart

[sharp valve]

Making progress, almost done with the top half

[sharp valve]

I think I'll leave the bottom for when I take it apart anyway to assemble the skirt

[round oracle]

do everything

[sharp valve]

I'm almost done with the bottom panels as well as custom enclosure, I'll do the rest then, plus by then I'll have the tap needed to do the rear hydra arm

[sharp valve]

Aaaa that was tiring

[sharp valve]

Top hat fit test is good

Now I can get to designing the top pieces

And as for the bottom panels, I just need to cut them to fit, plus ercf mounting arms on the back

There's the issue that the front panel holders block off the tensioner adjustment, but due to blind jointing, these holders no longer have to be screwed into both the y and z extrusions, so they're easy enough to remove

Top will be interesting to do, am thinking of maybe having two 400mm extrusions for rigidity and convenient mounting points for leds and camera

[sharp valve]

Hmm weird, looks like the ecas fit on the sherpa has gotten too loose to hold

I guess probably because the tent enclosure I used to use was a bit low

[sharp valve]

superglued it on, then thought it didn't stick, printed out a separate collet holder, started taking the toolhead apart to mount it, only to find that the glue set in the time that it took to print the separate holder lol

[sharp valve]

Sorted through many issues trying to get the bottom electronics bay panels to print

Beacon contact offset was high and unpredictable, turned out that the screws holding the rapido heatblock had gotten a bit loose

Loose ecas caused the incoming filament to get caught along an edge of the printer, causing skipped steps, glued it on

Then contact was throwing a sample spread too high error on some plates, at first I thought maybe they were too soft, but it was inconsistent

Saw a thread about it in annex about it potentially being sticking in the z axis, sp lubed up the leadscrews and rails

Will have to see if it's fixed, but for now seems fine

Oh and of course, large flat prints are so annoyingly sensitive to touching the plate, had to wash it with soap to get good adhesion everywhere

[sharp valve]

Ugh, I think the heater block came loose again in the middle of a print

Maybe I'll have to loctite them

Or I guess maybe they need to be tightened when hot

[sharp valve]

They had indeed come loose again

Looks like loctiting them has worked for others

[sharp valve]

Fixed, for now, back to near flawless first layers

[sharp valve]

spent all that time trying to churn out pla bottom enclosure pieces, only to accidentally leave them in the sun for a few minutes and have to throw them out lol

got some petg showing up today instead

can't do asa until I get around to setting up the enclosure

[sharp valve]

huh, this is new

warping with petg

[cyan gyro]

while printing?

[sharp valve]

Nope, after the print had cooled down

Could be adhesion or uneven cooling, since only the front corners curled up (was one of the electronics enclosure panels)

[sharp valve]

Need to update my cutter design, maybe this weekend, devised a better way to retain the spring

Idea is to have a long m3 screw mounted to the toolhead with spring on the screw, washer at end, and then going through the arm

Thus the spring is always fully held in

Right now I have the issue where the part that prevents the arm from moving too far out has worn out a little, so it sometimes goes slightly too far back and allows the spring to fall out

[sharp valve]

cutter design updated, printing, hopefully this approach for holding the spring works well

[round oracle]

still need one

[sharp valve]

idea is to have a long m3 in front, pen spring goes on the screw, then a washer to hold the spring in, then the arm goes in, with the cutout that allows the screw to move

should get rid of my current issue of the spring sometimes still falling out

well, hopefully

[sharp valve]

Ok nope, not working, due to being at an angle, the washer catches onto the screw threads

oh, this is a kind of awful, kind of great solution

Piece of filament instead

Will just need to adjust the design a bit to actually hold it, but ought to work

[sharp valve]

Finally getting around to printing again, cool to see that besides needing a manual nozzle clean to fix beacon, it works without maintenance

[sharp valve]

doing a bit of fiddling to procrastinate finishing up my thesis, trying to put together a little peltier dehumidifier, maybe it can keep the area where I keep my filaments a bit more dry than ambient

[sharp valve]

lol nvm, massively underestimated how much heat sinking I'd need

might work if I limit the power to the module

[sharp valve]

Ok yeah, technically that works, I even see a humidity difference, but the effect isn't strong enough to be worthwhile I think

[sharp valve]

Yeah was a neat experiment but would be better to just get dry boxes

[sharp valve]

Was having some trouble with bridging on PLA, but looks like swapping out the fans fixed it, maybe they were worn out, although it could also be because they were set to draw from the same port? Original pair was winsinn, swapped them for gdstime fans using separate ports on the thr36, so far temperature tower has much better bridging (still has other issues though)

Lately, while passable, the prints haven't been as high quality as I'd like

[round oracle]

recently had to put mine on one port, one of the fan wires broke shorted and killed the mosfet

but had them before as well like than and no issues

[sharp valve]

Ouch

[round oracle]

yeah, already have 2 thrs like that

one of them with a dead can transceiver too 😅

[sharp valve]

But yeah, I don't recall it having been an issue before, so I also figure the fans might've just been dying

[sharp valve]

Lol I'm going to guess that happened due to wrong order of wires on the screw terminals?

[round oracle]

nope, bad layout on the SKRat and me not being attentive enough, connected CAN on a 4 wire fan port

24v on it

[sharp valve]

Oof

[round oracle]

yep, and then I understood why the jumpers for those fans voltage was by default on 5v

and idiot me thought, suuure let's put them at 24V

it would have survived

[sharp valve]

Oh yeah I think I remember being extra careful about that based on when you had that happen lol

[round oracle]

well someone learned from my mistake, I consider that a win

[sharp valve]

Haha

Now I just wish we'd get more usb toolhead boards, would be even cooler to get one with a built-in hub for hooking up a beacon directly

[sharp valve]

...

Retraction test, I guess maybe the retraction speed is way too high

Dropped from 120 to 30mm/s, better but still completely stringy

I feel like this might be because of cht melt zone extender plus cht nozzle

[sharp valve]

Maybe I'll switch the mze to a non-cht one

[round oracle]

nitehawk no?

[sharp valve]

nitehawk has an onboard hub?

Oh neat, looks like it does

I might have a nitehawk in my future, seems to have all the bells and whistles

Even uart on the stepper

[sharp valve]

swapping to non-cht mze didn't change anything...

[round oracle]

@sharp valve what filament is it

and temps

[sharp valve]

220, silk pla

just read it might be just silk being bad, so I'll try regular pla I guess

[round oracle]

wet maybe?

[sharp valve]

It's fresh out of the dryer

Tried plain pla, same issue 😩

[round oracle]

ehhhh

[sharp valve]

Extruder is tensioned hard too, so it shouldn't be slipping...

[round oracle]

rapido?

[sharp valve]

Yeah

[round oracle]

2?

or 1

[sharp valve]

Yep

2

Uhf

[round oracle]

I think I saw turtle mentioning some 2s misreporting temp

under what it really was IIRC

[sharp valve]

Hmm, I'm using a pt1000, and at room temperature it matches the reading from beacon, but I guess I can check the nozzle temperature with another thermistor

[round oracle]

worth double checking

[sharp valve]

Or maybe I'll just try another temperature tower, currently, the layer adhesion would drop too much before stringing would go away

But that was before swapping out the cht mze to a regular one (nozzle is still cht though)

[round oracle]

I'm not getting stringing on rapido1 with extender just a looot of oozing when stopped

[sharp valve]

Yeah I get that too

[round oracle]

which kinda sucks with carto touch

[sharp valve]

Ended up deciding to try fiddling with seam settings first

[sharp valve]

For me it's usually alright between the filament only being loaded after all the calibration stuff happens and brushing the nozzle before beacon tap calibration

But yeah, occasionally it still causes trouble

[round oracle]

I leave filament loaded a lot

[sharp valve]

for me it's just the default that it auto-unloads at the end of print

[sharp valve]

figured I'd try using this to generate the tower instead https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction but it seems to cause the toolhead board to throw a "timer too close"

[sharp valve]

Eh, gave in and tried a lower temperature, at 200 the stringing becomes very fine fibers, so next, 190

Still, weird that I didn't used to have to drop it this low

[cyan gyro]

What hotend?

[sharp valve]

Rapido 2 uhf with a pt1000, flow4enol already mentioned the temperature reading inaccuracies, but it used to print fine without stringing previously too

Ok at 190 it's perfect, no stringing at all even at just 0.1mm retraction, but at 195, there's stringing even at 1+ mm retraction

[cyan gyro]

I would assume that's the issue then

They could get worse with time

Not sure why they have issues

But it's possible it's just running hotter than it reports now

[sharp valve]

Ah yeah that would make sense I guess

I guess I really should get around to hooking up another thermistor to check the temperature at the nozzle

[sharp valve]

Swapped back to the cht mze, now to see if this temperature keeps working

Although I'm kinda suspicious if cht mze + cht nozzle is actually worthwhile

Since if the holes don't align, it'd just reduce flow

Although on the other hand, since the insert in the mze can spin, maybe it aligns itself

Works alright, although the stringing at higher retractions seems a bit strange

[cyan gyro]

to much retraction can lead to more stringing

I find with direct drive, even with UHF hotends aroudn .5mm retraction is ideal

[sharp valve]

I see, thanks for the tip, looks like I'll end up going for around .5 also

[round oracle]

.5 is my default, I only change it if I get too much stringing

[sharp valve]

Yep, set to .5, approaching being back to decent print quality, now just pressure advance left

[cyan gyro]

its wierd how to much can be worse than to little

[sharp valve]

Yeah, I wonder what causes that to happen

Now printing the orca tolerance test

[sharp valve]

weird, tolerance test is still stringing

[sharp valve]

Oh I hadn't realized this temperature deviation issue was significant enough that phaetus offer some sort of replacement

Ah apparently they moved the thermistor mount to the other side and closer to the nozzle

I guess I'll worry about that later, for now I'll just lower the temperature a bit more

vs the printed insert, tolerances are at a nice 0.05mm

vs an m6 hex key, 0.2mm

and this issue of walls sometimes being slightly curved continues, probably either input shaper or PA

Seems connected to these small gaps that occur between walls

Wall curving is very visible at the corner here

[sharp valve]

ok, not PA

[sharp valve]

redoing input shaper didn't fix it, but when I slowed it down to like 40mm/s it did go away...

[sharp valve]

Going to try dropping down to 200mm/s, it'll do for now, by the time I'll have time to worry about wanting to print fast again, I'll be able to afford the custom frame

Or even just multiple printers

[sharp valve]

Even capped the speed to 100mm/s, still has the issue...

[sharp valve]

I'm going to try bumping the PA value even higher

[sharp valve]

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/28981/issues-with-pressure-advance-since-rrf-3-4/199?_=1726412058069 this thrad seems to describe my issue well, apparently it might be smoothing time related

[sharp valve]

Reducing smoothing time helped a little, increasing square corner velocity just made the corners rounder, but the walls continue to be kind of bad, trying a different wall order next

[sharp valve]

Ooh changing wall order helped a lot

Just need to reprint after fixing some stuff probably related to reducing smoothing time too much, and then hopefully I'll have a nice near perfect print

Oh! In orcaslicer, precise wall makes it so the outer perimeter is not overlapping with the inner perimeters, but it's only active when the wall order is inner-outer

And it was activated

And since I switched wall order, precise wall would've gotten disabled

[sharp valve]

😕it's much better but still not good enough

[sharp valve]

Come to think of it, I should also check against another slicer

[sharp valve]

Looks like slightly increasing flow rate and reducing accelerations resolved the rest

[round oracle]

that flow still looks low

[sharp valve]

yeah, bumped it up a little more, thing is that the surface is already starting to get rougher

[round oracle]

really? looks like there are gaps

[sharp valve]

This might be clearer in showing the dark parts are the filament "overflowing" rather than underextruding

[round oracle]

walls or top surface?

[sharp valve]

Top surface

[round oracle]

I'll he honest, hard to see for me the camera didn't focus on top

[sharp valve]

Although it looks like I can set the standard flow rate for proper wall thickness and then tune the top surface flow rate separately

Lol ok, I'll try again

[round oracle]

if that's an option it can work

BTW did you ever install belay?

[sharp valve]

I did install it, but took it out because it isn't really useful for ercf

[round oracle]

question was more going towards where in the filament path you put it

[sharp valve]

Tradrack iirc doesn't have an encoder so it needs a feedback mechanism for extruder sync, but ercf can get that feedback using the encoder

Ah

I just put it roughly halfway between the reverse bowden from mmu to toolhead

[round oracle]

but encoder can't really tell if it's adding pressure or not, maybe it can be used to calibrate both more precisely (if the encoder is precise enough)

come to think of it, I should recalibrate mine and maaaybe add belay

[sharp valve]

I think the idea is that if your encoder is well calibrated, that won't be a problem because you just push through the same length of filament that the extruder has pulled, as long as the update rate is fast enough, it shouldn't be a problem

the current ercf encoder is supposed to be ~1mm accuracy iirc

[round oracle]

here both sherpa and TR are with the "default" values and have been using sync without issues but want to re check

[sharp valve]

Yeah I feel like maybe the need for it might be a bit overblown

Reprinted the tolerance test, top doesn't have the large gaps from before, but those diagonal bits still have some prominent bulging

But I guess this is close enough

[sharp valve]

printed out a benchy, not going all that fast now with 5k accel, so it took ~45 minutes, but turned out pretty much flawless

so I guess that for now the problem is sorted out

this is also the only print where I've thought this silk filament didn't look ugly

[jagged ice]

prints are looking nice, dot

[sharp valve]

Thanks, the seemingly poor quality did turn out to be in part related to the filament, printed this GPU holder recently and it turned out beautifully

[sharp valve]

Well, now that I'm finally done with the dissertation, I can spend more time playing with this machine again

(I get to call myself a doctor now woooo )

[cyan gyro]

Congrats

[sharp valve]

Thanks!

[round oracle]

congrats Doctor dotnet

[frail plaza]

congrats!

[sharp valve]

thanks, both of you! 😊

[sharp valve]

hmm, so I currently use this sensor https://www.printables.com/model/442650-eva-3-toolhead-filament-sensor-mechanical-and-reli/ but seems like it has stopped working reliably now

thinking that it might be a good excuse to try something different, maybe a custom solution integrated with the cutter (which can also use a few improvements)

maybe a fully printed sensor using a bit of conductive filament 🤔

I also bought a bunch of hall effect sensors recently, might be interesting to try a sensor based on one of those

[sharp valve]

oh, I'll switch the cutter to a design like this

[sharp valve]

Maybe overall something like this, tnuts turn out to be pretty ferromagnetic, so they should provide a nice way to connect wires

[sharp valve]

Or this slightly more compact setup

[sharp valve]

trying to do this design in ondsel

[frail plaza]

is this for a metal toolhead with cutter? have you tried a recent weekly build freecad?

[sharp valve]

for eva3, plastic, no, I haven't tried a weekly build of freecad

my understanding is that ondsel is just freecad with some qol/ui improvements

this is supposed to be a cutter + toolhead sensor

[frail plaza]

It’s true, but freecad really ramped up with the improvements, also thanks to ondsel. I’m not sure ondels kept with the improvements in the main branch. if you don’t need the collaborative part (which I think it’s even a plugin that you can install in freecad, I think) I’d give freecad 1.1.0dev (the current version of the weekly) a try

[sharp valve]

oh, thanks for the info, I'll do that

[frail plaza]

I felt freecad was unusable before, now I find it very easy to get what I want.. well closer to what I need 😅

[sharp valve]

yeah I switched to ondsel because the freecad ui was really annoying to use, I kept finding myself just going back to jankily using blender

but didn't really have a chance to try it until now, so far I've been liking it, just downloaded the freecad weekly though

[frail plaza]

I use a black theme snd rearranged (drag snd drop) the toolbars/panels when I liked the most, and it’s not bad… I should have a bigger screen though 😅

[sharp valve]

oh huh, yeah, this isn't all that different from ondsel

neat

[round oracle]

I just want to run Solidworks on linux

[sharp valve]

I wonder if it might be realistic to use a printed spring for the cutter

[sharp valve]

Another interesting idea would be to use gears instead of a lever

Nvm, that'd be much larger than a lever for 3d printed gears

[sharp valve]

print-in-place hinge instead, and the sensor magnets are also embedded into the print

just need to add a path for the spring holder, and cutout for the blade in the base

[sharp valve]

done, I think

[sharp valve]

it's a bit taller than I'd like at 1cm, but probably still thinner than having them separate

could maybe shave off ~1mm

[frail plaza]

I made a small prototype for a sherpa mini + rapido, with the blade sliding directly on top of the rapido between the 4 holding screws, they make as a natural “all metal” guide (the blade is ~9mm width). I think if you want compact you need to redesign the rapido mount to have the cutter embedded into it

[round oracle]

my plan is to add it between rapido and sherpa as well, a slimmed down version of this https://www.printables.com/model/715220-sherpa-mini-tailed-filament-cutter
but with spring magnets rattle too much

[sharp valve]

Oh yeah, this is similar, to your initial description, but it's also important to me to not have to mod any of the hotend/extruder specific pieces, I can tolerate the thickness

[jagged ice]

a little late, but congrats doc!

[sharp valve]

Thanks! 😄

[sharp valve]

Getting around to printing the cutter + sensor design, I think I'll also redo my nozzle brush + purge bucket to be more effective at cleaning the nozzle

Nozzle cleanliness constantly causes trouble with the beacon

Going to shorten the bristles on the silicone brush, and use a washer to cut the purge off

[sharp valve]

The print-in-place arm works well, but the sensor does not, margins must be too tight

Going to rethink the sensor, I'm not too happy with the design

[sharp valve]

I could also just completely drop the sensor and use stallguard

[sharp valve]

redid most of the cad (previous one was a mess because I hadn't fully understood the distinction between parts and bodies) and removed the sensor, it's still pretty thick compared to the one I've been using, but I think it might be tolerable in exchange for being a bit sturdier and hopefully more reliable

[sharp valve]

Tried using a magnet setup instead of a physical spring, but not strong enough

[round oracle]

it will also ressonate a lot

[sharp valve]

I was going to add a second magnet to hold the arm if the magnet setup for the spring worked

Maybe I'll try a printed spring structure next

The lever is already print-in-place, might as well see if I can have the whole thing be that way besides the blade

[sharp valve]

That'll probably add wear and tear issues, so instead I think I'll try the springs from the ercf

Looks like that'll work, I'm a little concerned about the stress along the layer lines on the lever, maybe I can add a hole for a structural support screw

[round oracle]

the one I got has magnet to keep it in place, shaper is still messed up

[sharp valve]

ah you meant the shaper result, I feel like that isn't going to improve much with this no matter what

adjustments to accommodate the ercf spring, also some potential strength improvements

the arm should probably also be printed solid, I'm unsure about the hole in the arm pivot, I added it to allow for a screw to strengthen it, but now the walls are pretty thing

[sharp valve]

ah I can just switch it to an m2 lol

[round oracle]

@sharp valve which springs are you considering?

[sharp valve]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C33CBKFY these

ball pen springs seem a little too soft, while bed leveling springs seem too hard, I got these for the ERCF, iirc they're similar to extruder springs (and serve a similar function in ERCF), in hand testing they feel just right, but haven't printed the updated design yet to do a proper test

[round oracle]

got some extra ones for sherpa might try them

[sharp valve]

here's the stl if you want to try

I'll get around to testing it later today, need to finish some work first 😅

[round oracle]

I was talking about this design:

[sharp valve]

oh, I don't think I've seen that one before

that's your original?

[round oracle]

yep

will add a sensor under

[sharp valve]

This suggestion ended up being prescient lol https://x.com/ondsel/status/1851908596247773265

Ondsel (@ondsel) on X

After operating for almost two years, Ondsel has made the difficult decision to cease operations and close down. We are forever grateful for the support we've received from the community! Here is what's going to happen next

https://t.co/mgxjoPcjRT

Twitter · Oct 31, 2024, 8:46 AM

[frail plaza]

too bad they couldn’t keep the business, but it was great for the community

[round oracle]

well crap

[sharp valve]

Yeah, it's a shame

[frail plaza]

maybe the freecad “ecosystem” is not yet ready, if it was as easy as onshape, that would have been accessible to a bigger market. however there are things you can do in freecad, if you can code python, it’s basically limitless

[sharp valve]

Lol my luck with the BTT MMB board seems to be awful

First time around it was a dud

This time around they forgot the drivers

Oh nvm, Amazon is doing something weird with the package with the drivers

Slightly annoying but not a big deal I suppose, I probably wasn't going to get around to hooking it up yet anyway

[sharp valve]

Well, since I've done the cutter redesign, next is the purge/nozzle brush redesign

Last time I just came up with something simple as a stopgap till implementing that adaptive color sensor pellet purge thing, but I don't feel like adaptive purge is necessary for now

oh this is cute and minimalistic https://www.printables.com/model/499504-prime-pellet-purge-bin-voron-24

with the mercury the challenge would be that the bucket should be attached to the frame but the bed moves

so maybe a system where the bucket is stowable

[sharp valve]

actually, is that really necessary 🤔 could instead just have the bin at the bottom

[sharp valve]

this should work for wiping nozzle while leaving the option for making a magnetic bucket later

[sharp valve]

going to try printing the brush holder and the cutter using this trick: https://youtu.be/gbtlL8mTqJI

orca made it a bit annoying to force through, what I ended up doing is setting up a PLA raft and using support blockers to prevent actual supports from being generated

[sharp valve]

initial impression is it kinda works

Asa sticks to pla just enough to print while being easy to remove after

[sharp valve]

Had to restart print to remove the interface layer

And it warped

[sharp valve]

Ah the interface layer is still there and since it doesn't strongly grab the corners, it makes sense that it didn't do anything for warping

[sharp valve]

Just going to go with the good old bedweld for now

[sharp valve]

neat, nozzle brush is almost perfect, needs to be just slightly lower

[sharp valve]

Oooh potentially decent purge system design, using a lever pushed by the duct to pop pellets out of the purge area

[sharp valve]

repulsive magnets keep the green lever 'open', nozzle pushes the lever into the shown position, then purges, when the nozzle moves back, the lever should knock the purge blob off

will have to wrap the lever in a bit of kapton tape, and maybe aluminum foil on the platform

or maybe kapton tape on both I guess

need to figure out how to mount a bucket on this though

[sharp valve]

learning a lot of little cad things in the process, figured out how to make parametric stuff and figured out how to not have to redo everything if I edit a sketch that breaks attachment points for parts that come after

[sharp valve]

lever works well, magnetically mounting it to the holder does not

I'll make it use screws I guess

[frail plaza]

master sketches?

with external geometry? I wonder if there are other ways 😅. the thing that with a 30y old open source project, and fast evolving, documentation gets a bit inconsistent across versions

[sharp valve]

no, just needed to set the updated face to the new parent

[sharp valve]

Mounting issue fixed, lever mechanism works when in place, issue is that wiping on the brush requires the lever to be stowed in this way, but then there's no way to bring it back into a position the toolhead can push on

I don't want to add yet another piece on the toolhead to be able to grab it

[sharp valve]

Maybe I should just go for active control after all

[sharp valve]

Oh man totally forgot about just making the blob in a corner on the bed and knocking it into the bucket

[frail plaza]

but than if you are switching color at high layers, you’d have to lift the bed, there is no guarantee that the part will not hit the gantry/roof/parts of the printer, right?

[sharp valve]

Yep

It's hard to decide, I feel like if I'm going to use active parts, it should be a more comprehensive system, but then alternatively I could just compromise and do something simple like using a corner of the bed

[frail plaza]

I’m always hesitant to add a servo for this. it complicates things

[sharp valve]

Yeah exactly

I'd actually prefer to use a stepper over a servo, less maintenance and better integrated with klipper

Maybe a rack and pinion setup which helps to form a pellet while also causing the pellet to pop out afterwards

But then I want to also have the ability to sort into different bins based on material

[sharp valve]

However if going for such a solution, maybe it'll be better for speeds if it takes up the entire axis rather than just hanging off the top...

[sharp valve]

finally got around to swapping in the new cutter design

had to swap out the ptfe between hotend and cutter for wider inner-diameter

appears to work well, but might have to flip the design and add a 'funnel' to allow the tip to pass more smoothly through the gap

[sharp valve]

something like this

[sharp valve]

shaper testing time

hmmm

[sharp valve]

checked with "excitate axis at freq", holding the cutter arm doesn't change anything, so I assume the arm isn't contributing

next some cutter testing

[sharp valve]

ok cutter is working

[sharp valve]

test time

brush broke...

along the layer lines, which, tbh, was what I was worried about

[sharp valve]

ah, a piece I forgot to remove probably got in the way and caused the issue, the replacement is fine

[sharp valve]

Had a scheduled power outage today so took the chance to get some maintenance done on the printer

Cleaning up wiring, putting in a fan bracket for the leviathan instead of fans loosely sitting on the rails

Removing the 5v buck converter since I shouldn't need it anymore, finally got around to ordering a meanwell 24v supply to replace the random brand that came with the e5

Also ordered a 48v psu

Kind of torn over the canbus cable, I have a bunch of that really flexible silicone insulation cable, it works fine, but it isn't really stiff enough, can't figure out what I should do to replace it, particularly since it has to go into the tiny screw terminals on the thr36

Almost considering switching the toolhead to usb

[round oracle]

I'm running 0.75mm² silicone wire and it's stiff enough

4 of them, 24V twisted and then CAN twisted

[sharp valve]

In a sleeve?

[round oracle]

yes

[sharp valve]

I have this shitty solution at the moment, oversized sleeve (which is just about stiff enough to not drop get in the way) with ptfe to provide additional stiffness so the weight isn't on the toolhead

Yeah maybe I just need a properly sized sleeve

[round oracle]

might help, put the PTFE inside the sleeve as well, helps in 2 ways

makes it tighter and at the same time gives more rigidity

[sharp valve]

Oh yeah that's a good idea

Maybe I could even relocate the ercf to the back and pass its tube through

[sharp valve]

Well also ordered properly sized sleeving

[sharp valve]

It'll help tidy up this nest

[sharp valve]

Might as well also get around to replacing the camera's hdmi cable with a shorter more flexible one

Was thinking of doing the same for the screen, but I figure letting the cable for that be long would be better, can more easily move it around

[sharp valve]

Looks like it's going to be a bit tricky to squeeze everything into the electronics bay

[round oracle]

that PSU is a little big

[sharp valve]

Yep

Oversized for what I need tbh

I wonder if I could drop the 24v to 150W

[round oracle]

I think you can

rapido right?

[sharp valve]

Yep

[round oracle]

it will draw close to 100 when it starts heating up but after that not much

[sharp valve]

It'd only have to power the hotend and steppers for ercf, z axis and extruder

Yeah

[round oracle]

speaking of ercf, might need a new servo

(for TR)

[sharp valve]

Were you using the savox one?

[round oracle]

ever had issues where the servo doesn't move? but with a power cycle things go back to normal?

borked a print today because of that

[round oracle]

nope

[sharp valve]

Huh, nope

Could it be the power supply? What board are you using?

Mine was powered by a separate 5v buck converter, although I'm going to be seeing if I can directly power off the btt mmb

[round oracle]

mellow easy brd

I'll ping around annex

[sharp valve]

I don't think I've heard anything about it having trouble powering servos, so yeah, might be best to check with others who have more experience

[round oracle]

might eventually get the FT1117M-FB as recommended by BOM

[sharp valve]

The board that had come with my kit was known to have too weak of a supply for a servo, so that's been my go-to concern for servo issues

Well, ordered an lrs-150, will have to pick it up during my grocery run tomorrow, but that's better than having to wait till Monday

That'll give plenty of room in the bay I think

Hmm yeah, so looks like with hydra, a 200w psu is recommended, then since I'm moving the x and y steppers to 48v, 150 ought to be sufficient for the rest

[round oracle]

interesting I'll be on the limit then

[sharp valve]

Huh

I wonder how that happened and how I didn't catch it before

Going to have to finally make holes in the bed magnet to sort this one out

[sharp valve]

Oh I have a theory, the sexbolt used to be mounted to this tank

So there might've been sometime when the toolhead kept pressing down without the sexbolt triggering

Causing this to happen

Making the hole in the magnet wasn't as clean as I'd have liked, but managed enough to fix the issue

I'm going to guess this is going to fix the slight change in tilt each time and maybe also the slight uncorrectable tilt in the bed mesh on the rear

[sharp valve]

noticing a bunch of cracks on the hydra base parts, seemingly due to the frame

Not bad enough to make them unusable, but certainly going to become a problem eventually

Will see about printing out replacements in case they become necessary, but once my work stuff is sorted out I think I'll finally go and order the beta frame

Although I wonder if it might be the filament I used, ABS-GF, with the cracks being along layer lines

[sharp valve]

Neat, these are pretty small and will fit easily

Bonus of no fans

[sharp valve]

Would be cool to mount them like this

[sharp valve]

Ok PSUs are hooked up, just finished crimping the 2x2 molex for canbus on the leviathan, turned out much better than the first one I was using

Redid the umbilical too

Need to make up my mind on if I solder it together or stick to wagos

[sharp valve]

printer is alive again! fixing the tank on the z axis didn't affect the bed level, still ~0.13mm difference, hasn't really mattered but was still curious

[sharp valve]

Looking a lot better

[sharp valve]

the absolute silence from the printer's corner now that there isn't any fan running when idle is really noticeable

[sharp valve]

Oh that Y shaper is beautiful

[sharp valve]

So mesmerizing to watch it do its thing

While the shapers suggest that 10k accel is doable now, the printer shakes a bit too much for my liking

Might lower it to ~8k

[sharp valve]

I think next I'll finally get around to cutting down the long wires on the toolhead

And maybe getting rid of the toolhead led strip for a stationary strip

I wonder if reprinting the toolhead in PC might be good

[sharp valve]

Eh gave in and ordered a new tent enclosure, I really can't go without abs/asa anymore

This one should hopefully be less of an eyesore, tall enough to fit the 1.1 and has a side open up completely, I figure I can pull the ercf outside easily now that it just has the one canbus cable

I also have a ton of abs to get through, I want to use up as much of my current stock of filament as I can before having to move at the end of the year

[sharp valve]

Looks like I can sustain a 30 scv

Probably need to look at retuning pressure advance to see if I can fix the "directional" bulging at 10k accel, and maybe I can go a little over 400mm/s velocity

[sharp valve]

Looks like I'll have to tweak the fan mounting on the leviathan to allow using its rpi power supply cable and board, getting undervoltage warnings and even a timer too close over particularly heavy gcode or timelapse processing

Maybe skirt mounting some fans will be enough

[sharp valve]

Print died due to timer too close, but looks like just taking out the middle fan was sufficient to make room for the board, no undervoltage/throttling warning on starting the same print this time

[sharp valve]

So I thought that the especially large shaking might be related to having the printer sitting on carpeting, stuck an acrylic sheet underneath, mitigated thr issue significantly

[sharp valve]

This one is much better than the previous tent

Way larger than the printer and much easier to work on the printer in

I could probably store filament to "dry" in there during printing and the rest on top

[sharp valve]

Looks like I might want a bed fan now to help heat this up quickly

Maybe one of the 120mm blowers, I think I saw a mod for mounting one on the bottom of the frame

[frail plaza]

like this one #1132694887096131625 message?

[sharp valve]

That one hangs off the bed, I was thinking more like https://www.printables.com/model/881098-zerog-bed-cooling-fan-mount-use-12032-blower

This is for cooling the pei, but it could also work for heating up the chamber I think

[frail plaza]

yes, the bambu lab spins the auxiliary fan 100% during heating. it makes sense

[sharp valve]

well first I gotta reprint a bunch of parts in asa before the petg melts lol

I think mainly the cutter and brush

[sharp valve]

Oof

But well, besides needing to replace the carbon filter, it works, so good enough

[sharp valve]

reprinting the toolhead while at it, I'm hoping the X input shaper issue is related to something worn slightly loose

[sharp valve]

Was a risk printing a full plate of parts right away, but looks like everything worked out mostly fine, could maybe add a little part cooling, but no warping on the toolhead parts

[sharp valve]

now to try printing pc again

[sharp valve]

going super slow, first layer seems to be going down fine

[sharp valve]

welp one piece popped off, had to slow down even more, ~70mm/s max

rest are sticking for now

[sharp valve]

well nvm, every part eventually warped and popped off the bed

[sharp valve]

maybe I can print it in htpla instead

huh I must've just imagined the sherpa mini page suggesting to aim for stiffness, pc is just the 'approved alternative'

[sharp valve]

took my time to clean up the toolhead parts and inserts, thinking of also using a bit of loctite when putting it together this time

going to hold off on taking apart the current toolhead till tomorrow, when I'll have time to properly shorten and route all of the wires

[sharp valve]

was looking around to see if there were any better buffer options available, but instead found that someone fixed the biggest issue I have with the gravity autorewinder

the axle parts have a tendency to come apart and the fit seems loose enough that superglue didn't help either

https://www.printables.com/model/286840-gravity-spoolholder-remix-pin-and-gears-combined but someone's made a single piece version

[round oracle]

how much can that spool back in

without any motors etc the filamentalist still feels like the best option

[hollow crystal]

Careful with locktite and plastic. It’ll destroy printed parts apparently

[round oracle]

can confirm

[sharp valve]

Not much, filamentalist or winchrack are preferable if you're fine wih buying the parts, for me the main value of this is that it naturally buffers the filament it can't wind up due to the tall sides, and does not need any special parts besides a pc-m10 collet

[sharp valve]

Thanks for the heads up, I found out about that and was pointed to threadlock that doesn't affect plastic

[sharp valve]

had another servo horn wear out on the ercf, tried a new clamping design which is supposed to be more robust

had a hard time at first since it wouldn't fit at all, but after retuning flow rate and print temp for abs, it fit with very little trouble

[sharp valve]

ayyyy reassembled toolhead cleaned the x shaper up nicely

took cleaning up the massive lump of wires I had hanging off the side of the toolhead and reprinting all the parts since the previous set was kind of worn out from overtightening screws or using ones that were too long

y-shaper stayed clean too

[sharp valve]

well I guess I'm switching to cpap

Ordered the turbo kit due to the 20% sale on Amazon, then immediately regretted it budget-wise only for it to fail to cancel

[frail plaza]

you know, I have seen a too-good-to-be-true deal on ali (a mellow-branded cpap+board for 30$ with free delivery) and I knew it was a scam… it was a scam. waiting for ali refund to buy a real cpap 😅

[sharp valve]

Haha yeah IIRC I had something similar happen with an MMB board order, waited 2 weeks with nothing happening on it and cancelled

[frail plaza]

I just printed the mmb case for the tradrack, it’s too bad it doesn’t have some fan ports

[sharp valve]

On the bright side looks like the hepa filter on the cpap mount might be a similar size to the bentobox ones, so I shouldn't need to buy those, I wonder if it's reasonable to also have the cpap pullbair through the carbon

[sharp valve]

Yep, I finally switched to it recently, third try at buying one, it's sitting outside the enclosure so heat is probably not an issue, but I still wish it had fan ports

Theoretically something could be setup using its i2c port

But that'd only be worthwhile if needing a bunch of fan ports

[frail plaza]

I haven’t realised they are veritable hepa filters, I thought it was just a shroud to filter macro pieces, like filament fragments

[sharp valve]

Ah I don't know about the one included with the kit, I was referring to this #1291832362241626112 message

[frail plaza]

nice! I forgot about that! I guess there is no reason to no work with other ws7040 🤔

[sharp valve]

I thinking the valuable thing about the kit is more that it has a board that converts typical fan pwm to the signals the cpap needs, which, I understand, allows for better control

[sharp valve]

Besides that, yeah, I imagine it'll work with any similar size fan

[frail plaza]

Thanks, I haven’t considered that info before… I assumed I could run the fan via the gpio of my thinkerboard, but I am not 100% sure. using the mcu fan would make it really plug and play

[sharp valve]

Yep

To be fair though, it might be the case that I'm misunderstanding and you could control it via the gpios of your board

I only really started looking at it seriously after the order failed to cancel lol

[sharp valve]

that second peak is back after a couple of prints...

[round oracle]

loose screws?

[sharp valve]

Probably

The plastic safe loctite is going to take some time to arrive, for now I guess it's good enough that the accels haven't dropped

[sharp valve]

Jank setup to see if static cooling fans make for a good way to help speed up chamber heating

So far, seems to help, heat bed power went up from 10% to maintain temperature to 35%

[round oracle]

I can confirm they help a lot, it's the main use of mine

[sharp valve]

Nice! How do you mount them? The SCS way?

[round oracle]

yes with the bed at 2mm

so they blow the air right above

I don't know the exact science names but blowing right above will move the heat

[sharp valve]

Hmm, my main issue with SCS is that the mounting is a bit clunky

I guess I'll check into it again, it's possible I'm just doing something wrong

Looks like I'll have to check properly for leaks in the tent too, can't seem get get past 44C

I'm hoping to be able to hit at least 50C, currently still getting some occasional slight warping even with asa

[sharp valve]

Well, I got myself a small space heater, could try using it to warm up the enclosure too

Mainly got it because I'm sick of this room's awfully weak heating

But could be interesting to see what it does for warming up the enclosure

Technically against the dorm rules, but screw it, they've been awful for my entire stay and I'm leaving in a month

[sharp valve]

Saw advice to just stick a blanket over the enclosure, appears to work somewhat

[sharp valve]

Seems pretty marginal actually, ~3C improvement

[hollow crystal]

So on my X1C just putting a towel on top made a huge difference

Like 10deg C at least

Was super surprised

[sharp valve]

Wow that's a big difference! I'll have to see if maybe there's something I missed letting cold air in, if even sticking a blanket over hasn't had a big impact

[sharp valve]

Strange, now it can't even hit 40

[hollow crystal]

That's suspicious...

[ember patrol]

I put a heater in my p1p(enclosed in isolation)😅

Just one of these hand warmers

https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExC3Pnr

[sharp valve]

Yeah I have a heater showing up today which I can tie up with a thermal fuse and ssr to actively heat the chamber, but I want to try without active heating first

[sharp valve]

Strange, rotated the enclosure and disconnected some stuff to fully close some of the side openings, now seems to fluctuate between 44 and 46

Not sure what to make of the fluctuation

the bed is near the bottom, the chamber thermistor is on the printer floor and the hotend is off, so its thermistor also provides a useful reading

hotend temperature is still slowly rising to 44C, while chamber temperature keeps fluctuating between 44 and 46, so, maybe I have some cold air leaking in at the bottom

[sharp valve]

Chamber heater has it getting up to ~55c in 20 minutes

Will see where it stabilizes

[sharp valve]

40 minutes for 60c

still slowly climbing, so yeah, I'll definitely have to hook it up with active control if I intend to keep using it

[sharp valve]

Ah I think I have a better solution to my short term enclosure issue, I have acrylic panels for the "body" of the printer, I could enclose the body and make some corner pieces to hold up, say, a blanket, over the top

Then should have no need to worry about wiring in a chamber heater

Especially since ~Jan-Feb I'd like to start switching to the beta enclosure

[sharp valve]

Cpap cooling installed

[sharp valve]

now to figure out what's a reasonable speed to run this at lol

[sharp valve]

thinking about how I might be able to use some sound deadening foam I have laying around to muffle noise

[sharp valve]

ah, I could line the cpap box with the foam

[sharp valve]

I guess tomorrow I'll start trying to print some of the parts for the v0.2, first the stuff that can be in any filament, then, for everything that needs asa, I'll stick a blanket on top and hope for the best

[sharp valve]

I think I'll try my hand at designing a carbon filter and noise muffler attachment for this cpap

also interested in seeing if a muffler on the outlet will do anything to reduce the noise at the toolhead

[sharp valve]

idea here is to line the inside with deadening foam and fill with cotton, similar to with headphones, if that doesn't do the trick, I'm thinking of making little cylinders to go into the holes with some sort of muffler design

[sharp valve]

Seems to work. Although I should have made a direct measurement comparison

it still is loud, but the high pitched whir is gone

instead of cotton, I cut up a sponge and packed that in

[sharp valve]

Oooh seems like the remaining noise is just the outlet, I wonder if foam in the duct might be effective, I'm guessing probably not

[frail plaza]

maybe try a different duct

[frail plaza]

ohh, outlet is probably not the same as the cooling duct 😅

[sharp valve]

No, I did mean the cooling duct, was also thinking about trying other ones, but for now it's fine since petg and asa don't really require much cooling

[frail plaza]

I always wanted to try the tentacool

but it might whistle even more that what you have right now 😅

[sharp valve]

Yeah, I'm using kraken right now, I'm guessing that the noise is the result of high pressure at the duct exits

So tentacool is probably even louder

Properly reducing the pressure I think would involve something akin to a rocket nozzle shape, but idk, rockets are pretty loud too 😅

[frail plaza]

so is the btt cpap plug and play on the mcu fan pins?

[sharp valve]

Yep, board with the lever terminals takes a 24v input pair and a separate pwm input pair, the pwm pair goes into any regular fan port and 24v of course from the psu

There are some klipper config side things like the minimum and maximum fan speed, but that's not too big of a deal

Since the driver can't drive the motor below a certain speed (~8%) and there isn't really any difference in speed past ~90% iirc

Might be cool to test what kind of nozzle produces the least noise, maybe next project after the 0.2

[sharp valve]

-_- what now

beacon mount screws shook loose I guess

[sharp valve]

Well, took advantage of the dfh sale to pick up a cnc sherpa

For now probably not all that meaningful of a change since the rest of the toolhead is still plastic, but may be nice once I get around to switching to a metal toolhead and metal gantry

[frail plaza]

so your setup is rapido UHF, sherpa mini with cutter?

… with cpap

I’m trying to design a toolhead very like the one flow4enol shared in his build, that uses the same style of the metal gantry (alu plates and standoffs for structures and printed parts to add features)… I’m doing it in freecad, so if you want to have fun…

[sharp valve]

yep, rapido uhf, sherpa mini, cutter, cpap and thr36 toolhead

[sharp valve]

oooh, I'd certainly be open to messing around with it

getting the parts made in metal and tested would have to wait until January, but otherwise

[frail plaza]

ohhh, you have a thr as well, we have twins setups 😅

[round oracle]

I would ask if you wanted to test mine but no CPAP

oh and not sherpa mini I'm moving to micro

[sharp valve]

Probably wouldn't add much cost to when I order the full metal gantry plates in (hopefully) January, so, sure I could test it if you're specifically looking for testers

Definitely can't be before then though, got a busy December ahead of me

[round oracle]

having feedback would be nice but it's a choiceless toolhead

rapido, sherpa micro, dual 5015

it's also sensorless on X

damn I was going to call it no choice but Choiceless kinda sounds good to me

[sharp valve]

Micro uses the same internals right?

[round oracle]

yep

[sharp valve]

Yeah then not that much of an issue to test it

[round oracle]

just need to test print it first

[sharp valve]

I got some inspiration for a toolchanger design from youtube recently so playing around with different toolheads might help to formulate a merc toolchanger

Basically, cut out a bunch of the cost by making the filament able to come out of the extruder without pulling out of the hotend, saves the cost of a separate extruder per toolhead and since an issue with toolchangers seems to be z-offset, I'm thinking a metal system can be more consistent

[round oracle]

WDYM

[sharp valve]

https://youtu.be/wjNQ7pUC6R8

I think the basic idea of an extruder with a path like this is decent enough, but the rest of this I feel is a bit janky

[round oracle]

ohh got it for some reason I was thinking single hotend

[sharp valve]

Hotends have gotten pretty cheap lately so I think multihotend might not be too bad nowadays

Per tool: ~$30 hotend + ~$20 toolhead board per tool (or a custom board specifically for several heater + thermistor + fan sets) + ~$20 or whatever metal mounting plates end up costing

[frail plaza]

definitely not, I'm planning around what I have with leftover of the metal gantry, and 2 additional plates might be around 15$ more or somethign like that

[frail plaza]

I have somethign like this for now, I "only" need the cutter 😅

uses a 3010 fan, cpap and the ducts holes from the vz toolhead (for compatibility), the cutter I'm either integrating it in the hotend fan shroud, it seems quite tight there, or just add a printed module under the extruder, but I feel I'm defeating the purpose of the metal toolhead

[sharp valve]

Ooh

[sharp valve]

Yeah, that is certainly a conundrum with the cutter, although a metal cutter should be doable

[frail plaza]

I was thinking, since we can, to make a slot on the top plate to use as a rail fot the cutter "holder" or at least to make some clearance for a bolt to fasten the blade (and add a 1mm plate under the top plate to create the gap where the blade will slide into)

I tested and a ~9mm wide blade can slide thought the rapido screws

[sharp valve]

Oh yeah, that could work

The main challenge I've seen with designing a cutter is getting the lever right, so far I've had the handle break on every design

[frail plaza]

but, also the level and arm could be designed in metal, since we are at it

that would make tiny pieces strong enough to work reliably

hm, I was thinking to share the FCstd file, but it's too big, I probably have to clean it 😅

[round oracle]

I don't want to invade the log but I'm getting ideas for the cutter

(on mine)

only one "problem" metal cutter might be a little heavier

but I do like the metal arm idea

[sharp valve]

That's fine, lately I mainly I brainstorm here lol

[sharp valve]

Yeah that's a drawback, although on the other hand it can also be a lot smaller than a plastic one

[round oracle]

the tricky thing for my design is thst I'm going with a pivoting arm

attaching the blade is an issue without cutting slots in the metal

might go with an aluminium sandwich 2x2mm

[sharp valve]

Hmm

[round oracle]

that or a 3mm piece with a 1mm printed just to act as a cover for the blade with the cutout, actual rigidity comes from steel pins

got 2x8mm ones so I can cut down

either way arm has 4mm

[sharp valve]

Seeing the extrusions in this v0 kit, I now see even more clearly how awful the base e5pro frame is 😅

[willow badger]

Which kit did you go with?

[sharp valve]

fysetc

the rails are meh, but the rest seems pretty high quality

lightweight gantry and solid cnc bed mount already included

[willow badger]

Oh cool, those are some nice upgrades. The fysetc kit shipping to my address made it way too expensive

[sharp valve]

yeah, the shipping is crazy, I only got it because it was on a pretty decent sale from the US warehouse (so free shipping)

[frail plaza]

I've moved forward with the cutter design, but I can't animate very well in freecad 😛 #cad message

[sharp valve]

Due to the convenience and reliability of just straight up printing on the v0 without any of the calibration stuff happening each print, I'm thinking of trying to simplify the print start sequence on the merc

Gotten rid of filament unload and initial gate checks, next thinking about reducing beacon contact since it also often causes issues due to nozzle hygiene sensitivity

[sharp valve]

Thought to get the bambu nozzle brushes to see if they're any better than the cut down cooking brush

Looks like they're stiffer

[willow badger]

These the silicone ones? Each “bristle” is a lot shorter and wider

[sharp valve]

Yep

[sharp valve]

CNC Sherpa mini showed up, looks pretty nice, interesting that fysetc doesn't include their integrated gears on it, it looks like they should be compatible

will have to try swapping gears

[sharp valve]

Done with graduation and settled in at work, not perfect but good enough to get back to tinkering with printers! Got myself the nebula kit, and keeping the v0 busy printing replacement parts for everything

was thinking of going full metal gantry and full metal hydra while I was at it, but I think I'll save that for later

merc has been down for the past ~6 months, broke some bits while moving (camera mount etc), plus needing to manually hook up to the RPi to update its network settings, kept putting both off. I'll get all that done during this rebuild

hopefully cpap will fit fine, though depending on the noise level I might just go back to normal blowers

also will need to figure something out for the ercf, maybe on top... or switch to one of the many other mmu options now

[frail plaza]

hey, welcome back! from the info I’ve gathered cpap is barely audible at low speed, which would still be blowing more than a standard 5015

[sharp valve]

Ah, I think I remember something like that, I already have it on my machine, it's just a matter of not remembering the sound level lol

Iirc I have a custom muffler on it too

[cyan gyro]

Being enclosed also helps

[sharp valve]

Ah that's a good point too

[jagged ice]

I guess I chose a good day to catch up on build logs. Welcome back, dot.

[sharp valve]

Thanks! Nice to see you're still around too!

[sharp valve]

Partially assembled, not going all the way as I have plenty left to print and don't want to waste a ton of time or potentially damage the frame before even turning it into a working printer

[sharp valve]

Ended up ordering the hydra metal stepper mounts, not too expensive and they're one of the parts that I've previously broken easily

[sharp valve]

Approaching printing the nebula parts themselves by tomorrow, will be time to take apart the old machine soon, hopefully I can still fit the 350mm rails for Y

Tested how I could clean the rails, don't have a container large enough (and anyway that'd waste a ton of iso), but a neat trick I came up with is to fold up a "container" of the right size with some tin foil

[cyan gyro]

I just take the carts off carefully, and soak those

[sharp valve]

I think tomorrow I'll finally start disassembly

[cyan gyro]

wipe the rail down with paper towels and ipa

[sharp valve]

Ah... that's a much better suggestion lol

Would clean it better too, just immersing the rail and moving the carriage around seems to dislodge a bunch of gunk, but doesn't really clean off the previous grease from within the rail grooves

[cyan gyro]

saw someone recently end up in the hospitol with 3rd degree burns on their feet, from soaking rails in a pan... then cooking a filament clog out of a nozzle near said pan

open tray of ipa is not a safe setup

[sharp valve]

Ouch, yeah, I was pretty careful about that, away from any sources of heat and sparks, gloves, windows open etc, and quickly did the tests, cleaned up and diluted the waste iso

But still risky to do

Will do it your way for the rails actually meant for the printer

[cyan gyro]

I just roll it onto my finger

there are printed tools to remove them as well

bascially printed rail sections

just looser tolerance

[sharp valve]

Yeah, I'll probably print those, would also make it easier to put them back on without losing bearings

[wild rampart]

how's that triple z working out for you?

[sharp valve]

That's a pretty old pic, I've been on Hydra for a while now, the old triple z was alright, iirc mainly helped with bed stability and very minor autoleveling, hydra is a massive improvement though

[frail plaza]

ohh, I was just digging into the log. I wonder if this guy got some involvement into bondtech indx

[frail plaza]

well, it’s nowhere near as polished as the indx, so I’d say no 😅. but the idea is really similar

[sharp valve]

Lol I see

[sharp valve]

Well, by now I probably won't be finished with printing the parts for the rebuild before the hydra metal stepper plates arrive, so might not even have to worry about replacing the plastic ones later

Printing the static tension towers rn, then have the metal stepper tower inserts to do, then toolhead and e-bay clips etc, then finally I'll get to the nebula panel stuff

Once the rebuild is done I might also rebuild the ercf or just replace it with a box turtle or similar, would be much handier spool management wise

[sharp valve]

ah... rediscovered one of the many things on my todo list, need to find a way to fit an lrs-100 and lrs-150 in the 255mm e-bay

I guess it might be a bit easier to make them fit towards the back in the nebula frame

If I move the wagos to an extrusion mount I should then also have just enough room for a 5v buck to drive LEDs

[sharp valve]

Now that I'm no longer at risk of jinxing myself for today, great day of printing, kept churning out parts, need to dry the other filament, and will be out tomorrow, so from Monday I can get to the panel clips and hinges

[sharp valve]

Started taking apart the old merc, cleaning rails and moving them over to nebula, hydra metal stepper mounts arrive tomorrow too, so hopefully I can have everything assembled then

Still haven't gotten around to the panel clips, but hopefully I can at least move the components over and take apart the old frame to make room for the new one

And anyway I need to also decide on lighting and how to mount the camera, now that there are more stable locations to put it

[cyan gyro]

Are you using another printer to print the new parts then?

[sharp valve]

Yep, a voron 0.2

[cyan gyro]

thats a nice little printer to keep around to support a bigger printer

[sharp valve]

Can't handle all the nebula parts, but just needs to handle enough to let the nebula do the rest

[sharp valve]

Yep, was basically my entire reason for getting it, nice little parts printer

[cyan gyro]

A bit of a pain to have to do the skirts later, but not terrible

[sharp valve]

Yeah, the skirts and the pieces to fill in the gaps in the back between the usual hydra bottom panel and the back of the nebula frame

[sharp valve]

The hydra plates didn't show up yesterday, now it says today, so yesterday I just took my time cleaning up the top rails, and assembling it onto the new frame

[sharp valve]

This turned out to be great advice, did a much better job for cleaning out the gunk from under the carriage, the X rail was so gunked up it took multiple soaks to clean it, had printed a rail piece, and that allowed me to easily take the carriages off and put them back on without struggling to keep the bearings in (sliding the carriage onto the printed piece, then off the printed piece and vice versa)

[cyan gyro]

That's great

[sharp valve]

Printer is almost assembled, was just getting to wiring everything up, but now I have yet another hurdle in the form of a fever

Was told not to work on the printer until it goes down lol

[sharp valve]

Assembled everything besides the panels, need to get around to doing all the wiring

[sharp valve]

Will have to recrimp one of the stepper wires, so I'll get back to it maybe tomorrow

[cyan gyro]

That picture makes it look small

[sharp valve]

Haha yeah, took it close up with a wide angle lens

[sharp valve]

printing out some customized splice terminal mounts, hopefully I can be done with the wiring (and maybe config updates too) today

[sharp valve]

config updates will probably be tough to get done today, but, assuming these psu mounts work fine, I should at least be done with clean-ish wiring tonight

[sharp valve]

psus mounted, just need to do all the wiring, but actually I'll hold off till after work tomorrow for that

There's a second row of 5 terminal connectors underneath the ones next to the rear stepper, should make for a nice little hub for both grounds, routing AC to the PSUs and SSR and distributing 24v to the board and buck

The metal hydra stepper plates are very nice, spares being cheap to add to the order was handy for peace of mind since I hadn't thought to require the dragchain mounting holes to be tapped (if that's even an option on SCS) and had to do that myself

Iirc it was actually slightly cheaper overall to get some spares due to the free shipping threshold

[cyan gyro]

yeah 2 sets is about the same price as 1 set, partially due to the min order of $35

[sharp valve]

It lives! I think

[sharp valve]

Ok yep, it's alive!

[jagged ice]

those metal stepper mounts look great

[sharp valve]

Yep!

Well, homing X and Y sensorless worked right away

hmm homing z via beacon works, and z tilt moves starts off fine but then almost drags the toolhead across the bed

[cyan gyro]

Post your config

[sharp valve]

Took a break, will do soright as I get back to it. I think it's probably a matter of recalibrating the beacon

Since it seems to trigger early sometimes, and it has been 6 months since it was last used

[sharp valve]

ah, problem solved, since I switched to sensorless homing on X, the homing position changed just enough that the right corner probe position wasn't properly over the bed, causing the sensor to mistrigger

nvm

[sharp valve]

ok, this is my config

[sharp valve]

pretty dumb mistake, not sure how it didn't cause trouble before

the order of the points did not match the order of the steppers

oh, of course it didn't cause trouble before, I must've swapped the front z steppers when rewiring

ok yeah, bed leveled now

[sharp valve]

Just a matter of pid tuning and disabling the mmu and I ought to be ready for a print

[sharp valve]

Ah right, also gotta recalibrate the extruder's steps since I changed it, first print will have to come tomorrow

[sharp valve]

Also ordered some cryogrip plates, would be nice to use less power for pla/petg, given that I mostly use those for casual throwaway stuff

[sharp valve]

First print coming along nicely

[sharp valve]

now on to printing the panel clips

[sharp valve]

Whew, managed to find my neoprene sheet, hadn't expected to need it for the panels

Trying to print 15 hollow panel clips at once, filling up the entire v0 bed, so far it's managing...

[sharp valve]

Ugh I guess I'll have to wait for the tape after all, cutting strips of this isn't really working too well

[sharp valve]

8 of them warped, came down to 3 per print as a reliable number, just need at least 4 more I think

Then on to some of the door parts, I'll be holding off on the handle so I can make it multicolor

[jagged ice]

small bits are hard for me unless the chamber is pretty saturated with heat, I think because of the number of exposed edges that may warp

not sure if that's the issue here

[sharp valve]

The issue here was just not having the patience to level the bed perfectly enough to fill it 😅

(On the v0)

The ones on the edges, especially the ones near the door, didn't adhere as nicely and then warped

[sharp valve]

Installed most of the panels, but may have broken two of the feet tilting the printer back upright...

Workable for now as they haven't outright broken off, but will have to replace them when installing the skirt and bottom panel

Probably happened because of the lack of a skirt and bottom panel, so all the weight was on the legs along the layer lines

[sharp valve]

Assembled

Now trying to decide how to handle the ercf, for starters I need to update the cutter design, but, idk if I want to bother calibrating the ercf again or just take it off and convert to a tradrack or some other mmu

I'm kind of surprised that among all the new mmu designs, there doesn't seem to be a "mostly from ercf BOM but simpler/more reliable" design

The low rider might almost fit the bill

[sharp valve]

The only thing I feel could be added to the build are handles to lift the machine with (unless they already exist and I just missed them), gets kind of tricky to move it once the panels are on

[sharp valve]

gonna try switching to the triple decky blocks for my ercf, looks like they still get updates and retain sturdybunny support

won't take too much time to print, though assembly will involve wiring up a microswitch to each gate...

[sharp valve]

Well, even though I had most parts printed, I didn't have time to clean them up and start assembly all week, got to it today, only to realize I missed a part to print, sorted that out, now tomorrow I need to clean up those parts (mostly just drilling open the filament path to be smooth) and then hopefully on to assembly

[sharp valve]

Finished assembling one of the triple decky gates, a lot of work with small pieces, but everything fits together smoothly and appears to work well

[sharp valve]

Alright, mostly finished with assembly, all that's left is to crimp the gate sensor wires and then on to calibration

[sharp valve]

Aaand wired up, calibration in the morning

[sharp valve]

this is much better thus far

all the gates are working smoothly so far

The pregate sensors are really handy, the selector arm automatically moves over and pulls the filament into parking position

[sharp valve]

UGGGH the cutter arm snapped again

giving up for now, will get back to this in a week maybe

[cyan gyro]

What's the cutter look like

The arm I mean

[sharp valve]

it's too thin

I'm going to make it wider, realized how I might be able to make it still look decent

[cyan gyro]

Pivot point doesn't look great either, that's a lot of angle at the retracted position

[sharp valve]

do you mean for the blade?

[cyan gyro]

I would think it would work better if the arm was more parallel , so moving the base pivot out further

but I also havent used a filament cutter

[sharp valve]

Hmm, might be doable (in terms of space in the toolhead), though also I think I'll try to make it so the blade's channel curves with the blade's movement

[sharp valve]

And sorry this wasn't all that clear of a question lol, I had meant to ask if you meant the blade's pivot, though I understand now you mean the arm's pivot against the base

[sharp valve]

Looks like the only other designs I can find which don't try to make the blade move parallel are the ones I know are also prone to breaking

Well, apparently not the picommu/lhstinger cuttee, but its handle is wider at even its narrowest point

[cyan gyro]

So most are parallel?

[sharp valve]

Yep

They all seem to do something like this, where the arm is oriented in a way that prevents the blade from moving at an angle

I think I'll redesign to something like this https://www.printables.com/model/1311233-filament-cutter-for-ratrig-v-core-31-toolhead-orbi/related

It's nice and low profile and makes sure the blade moves straight

[cyan gyro]

Yeah that seems more reliable, just a little more complex

[sharp valve]

Yep

[sharp valve]

noting my toolhead dimensions for mmu with cnc sherpa mini and rapido 2 cht uhf based on the measurements on their websites and eva34m1 stls: ```Hotend Entry to Nozzle tip = 62.5 (UHF extender = 8.5mm)
Extruder mount = 9mm
Blade + sensor = 9mm
Front mount = 5.2mm
Hotend mount = 12.3mm
Extruder gears to exit = 13.5mm
Extruder entry to gears = 19.1

toolhead_entry_to_extruder: 19.1mm
toolhead_residual_filament: 8.5mm + 7.5mm = 16
toolhead_extruder_to_nozzle: 13.5 + 9 + 9 + 5.2 + 12.3 + 62.5 - 2 = 109.5
toolhead_sensor_to_nozzle: 6 + 5.2 + 12.3 + 62.5 - 2 = 84
variable_blade_pos: 1 + 5.2 + 12.3 + 62.5 - 2 = 79
variable_retract_length: ~20

actually pretty much what I roughly measured holding a ruler next to the toolhead

[sharp valve]

Ugh, I thought I had cleared the jam after taking off the nozzle and having a needle go through the heatbreak fine, but apparently not

I guess tomorrow I'll have to take the hotened off and actually get whatever is stuck out

[sharp valve]

I think the issue was not having enough of a pushback and/or the ptfe between the cutter and hotend being 3mm ID, so, the tip cooled and expanded too much to go into the rapido heatbreak and it would've jammed regardless of pushback value

Going to replace it with 2mm ID

[sharp valve]

Ok yeah I think I'm just completely done with the ERCF, will replace it with something else

I can't sort out the filament cutter and other settings if I'm also endlessly fighting this damn thing

[sharp valve]

Maybe a picommu, though it'd mean also giving up most of the bits of the ercf that do work reliably

Tradrack could work too, but then I'd have to wait for a kit

[sharp valve]

~$35 in additional parts to build a picommu, so, going for that

I have one 996r servo I might be able to use, else I'll have to mod the servo holder for the sh255 from the ercf

[sharp valve]

Got the merc up and running to print the picommu parts, it's so mesmerizing to see it go...

[wild rampart]

let us know how it goes! i'm super interested in the picommu but maurice is not reliable enough to start considering an mmu system

[sharp valve]

Well...

Luckily I have a spare...

[sharp valve]

Maybe the problem was that the old compensation factor for performing contact calibration at lower temp wasn't accurate anymore somehow

[sharp valve]

ok yeah, that fixed the first layer being too thin issue, and it turned out that I hadn't imported the petg profile from my other machine, so the flow rate wasn't actually calibrated as I thought it was, sorting that out resolved the surface messiness issue

[sharp valve]

Going to have to tweak the camshaft slightly, the dowel pins I got are out of spec, 5.1mm instead of 5mm, I already sanded one for the bearings before noticing...

Only thought to measure when even heating it up didn't help much for sliding the pin into the pla shaft

[sharp valve]

https://www.printables.com/model/1280673-parametric-camshaft-for-picommu this ended up being pretty handy, easily tweaked the inner diameter without having to do some bolean modifier shenanigans

[sharp valve]

The shaft was the only challenge, rest was a joy to assemble, simple, intuitive and easily fitting together

[sharp valve]

May have to drill and clean out the filament paths though, and I think besides gears I should have just enough for a second unit to mod/mess with

[sharp valve]

Fully assembled, now just gotta find the energy to calibrate the servo angles

[sharp valve]

Well I was able to crimp the mg996 I had laying around and confirm that it wasn't broken, and with the hub wired up, the initial build is done, tomorrow I'll update the happyhare config and at least get through calibrations

Ah, didn't do the camshaft pressure tabs right, and should stick ptfe tube on the screw the belt is touching

Simple to fix

[sharp valve]

Selector camshaft calibrated, was a little tricky since the happyhare documentation for this mmu is kinda sparse

So far going well, having some trouble loading filament into the gates though, it slips out easily when trying to load it

The sensors are all working, but I feel like I want to stick an encoder in between anyway

[sharp valve]

Added in the picommu's cnc sherpa entry sensor, it's a pretty cool design, replaces the kinda awful metal ecas, clamps onto the front and guides the filament straight down the middle, avoiding catching on the edges

last steps should be to calibrate the gear stepper

[sharp valve]

Added in a belay and had to reprint the pico's filament hub with a smaller layer height to get it to allow filament through smoothly

Also noticed that the extruder entry sensor path was a tad tight, so currently having the extruder pull a bit of gf filament in and out

[sharp valve]

Well, putting the mmu through its paces, I'm finding that the servo isn't really working reliably, ever once in a while it seems to struggle, maybe even the mmb can't handle the mg996's current draw or my servo is damaged as I had previously expected

Just went and ordered one that matches the BOM, will be here by the time I'm back from my work trip in a week

I really want to get this working by then, really need to get to designing and printing a time sensitive thing

[sharp valve]

back from work trip, new servos are in and mount printed and assembled, calibration time

[sharp valve]

I think I may be able to get down to a ~600mm filament path by modifying the nebula corner piece to integrate a hub+sensor, maybe I can manage to fit a belay in there too

That'll let me use the sternwheeler buffer

But, for now, I've got it down to ~1000mm, and can get by temporarily without buffering or rewinding

[sharp valve]

Well, this almost works, some annoying quirks to sort out, the press fit ptfe into the hub pops out easily rather than allowing the pico to push through the slight resistance of the extruder sensor, and filament cutter settings

[sharp valve]

Printing out a hub that takes some pc4 fittings, but it doesn't have a filament sensor, so trying to decide on that, it might be best if I can find a mod for the ercf v2 encoder as a standalone motion sensor, then I can remove the belay and still have both extruder syncing and filament sensing

[sharp valve]

that's a lot better, pico is able to push and pull filament properly now without any tubes popping out

[sharp valve]

Hmmm still catches at some points

Going to try a different design and maybe print it out of asa in case it's something weird with this cheap petg

[sharp valve]

this one is designed in a way that avoids having any place to catch

[sharp valve]

Had to tweak print settings and reprint a few times, outer walls came out a little weird, but, this one seems to work

[sharp valve]

Got it installed, and it seems to be working well over a dozen or so different gate checks (so pulling the filament through the hub to the gate sensor, then back out such that the hub is empty and able to pass another

[sharp valve]

Been working through the pico setup stuff still

Had a seemingly working config, but I was having trouble with some filament that seemed like underextrusion due to the filament path resistance

Just mounting the mmu instead of leaving it sitting on the top didn't help, then figured I'd switch to the ercf encoder instead of a gate switch and belay, but it adds too much resistance and the pico isn't able to push filament through it

Then figured I'd play around with filament sensor options for a smoother one, but none really worked too well

(Not many to choose from in the first place)

Then finally decided to just try to get the original hub design to print right, keeping a close eye on it as it prints to see what I might need to tweak

Took 2-3 iterations, but at the moment the og hub seems to be sufficiently smooth

[wild rampart]

how long do you think it would take to get a second pico working now that you're more experienced

[sharp valve]

It's a very easy build, even the first one was just two days of printing to get everything perfect and maybe 2-3 hours for assembly

I guess I could build a second one in a day

[wild rampart]

i guess i meant having it work properly? you've been at this for a couple months now right?

[sharp valve]

Most of my time getting it setup has been spent on figuring out which hub would work (still ongoing)

[sharp valve]

Hmm, so, I bought the handful of parts of it that I didn't already have on July 11th, so just a little over a month

[wild rampart]

hmm ok

[sharp valve]

Getting everything tuned so it's working flawlessly might take a week on top

Though it probably also depends on your specific config, e.g. it'd probably take less time on a v0 because of the very short filament path, while the merc's longer path makes it a lot less forgiving

[sharp valve]

Well, I gave in, cnc toolhead ordered 😅

[wild rampart]

how much did that cost you

[sharp valve]

$108 with the magneto cutter also included

[sharp valve]

Damn, they sent the package via plane and a week later it's already here 😮 hadn't even gotten to printing the necessary parts yet

[sharp valve]

Almost done, printing out a 3010 to 2510 fan adapter, and I should be ready to take apart my existing toolhead, I think the push block I already have should work for the cutter

[sharp valve]

eh nvm, no need to rush through assembling it today when I won't even have time to set it up after, just going to order the 2510 fan and print that magnetic puller

[sharp valve]

Finished assembly

Going to clean up the wiring after a shower

[sharp valve]

Ouch

Maybe because of the fan shroud jank and not having put in spacers for the cooling duct yet

[cyan gyro]

is the wiring cleaned up yet?

loose wires can show, as can any umbilical, bowden tube, and cpap tube issues

[sharp valve]

I'll check that too, but yes, I did clean up the wiring, pulled it through the umbilical guide and ziptied the excess

But, come to think of it, I didn't cut the ties yet

[sharp valve]

had the idea to look at the results from the toolhead board's accel instead of beacon's and see what changes

left is toolhead, right is beacon

so, there are some peaks that are in common, which I think indicates that those are the 'true' peaks rather than down to mounting issues with the sensors

the toolhead board experiences additional vibrations on the X axis, while beacon does that on Y, I think this indicates loosness in the horn mounting, either due to lacking spacers on the part cooling horns or not having tightened the beacon screws sufficiently

the Y frequency still seems pretty low though, so maybe I need to tighten the belts a bit more

[sharp valve]

Tightening the belts helped, but still room for improvement

https://www.printables.com/model/745836-grip-n-clip I think I also want to replace the standard belt clamps with these

[sharp valve]

turns out kalico actually supports using multiple accelerometers simultaneously

[sharp valve]

the screws in the back of the toolhead which hold the horns, beacon and toolhead board had come loose

put them in again with loctite this time

X remains similar, but cleaner

[sharp valve]

Well, I think I'm switching the toolhead board back to an ebb36, I'm not really using the stallguard feature on the thr36, and the screw terminals on it are very annoying

Just need to figure out if I want to do the usb mod for it

[sharp valve]

back to normal from the blob of death, tried printing out a bunch of led strip holders, but being a tall narrow vase mode print, only one came out clean enough to use

designed a corner camera mount too

[sharp valve]

Corner mount fits nicely and at least looks like it's pointing at the bed, probably going to have to use the wide angle lens on it

[sharp valve]

\o/

haven't done the wiring for the LEDs yet

probably would be nice to tilt down a little more, though, then I'll need a low profile hdmi cable

also thinking of sticking an esp32-cam at the bed level

[sharp valve]

Lights are in too

[sharp valve]

working nicely, besides having tried to setup obico to use the 3090 in my server to do failure detection, only to have it be redlining the rpi when not in use