E5Pro to M1.1/EVA3/Hydra/ERCF

[round oracle]

getting very tempted to make a lighter toolhead

[sharp valve]

I agree, I just think it'd be easier for me to prototype a design which goes on top since the extruder mount is much smaller than the front 😅

I did try it, but found I'm not patient enough lol

[round oracle]

I have yet to find a good guide on it, that tip is the default from TR macro with PLA

[sharp valve]

Yeah I just took the parameters for the rapido and used the default tip shaping in HH, iirc pla doesn't work as well as abs/asa, but overall, for how often the filament is pulled out by the software, tip forming would take too much time (HH seems to want to take it out and reload at the start of every print for instance, although I might be able to avoid that with some macro stuff)

[jagged ice]

I sorely would like to make a toolhead that isn't full of compromises for compatibility

[round oracle]

I told you, it's an opinionated toolhead, you get support for one hotend, one extruder, one probe

and one belt path one part cooling option, step available if anyone wants more makes it

[sharp valve]

🤔

could move the blade in slightly, but not much before it risks interfering with the sherpa mount

Teal would be a magnet integrated into the block mounted to the blade, blue would be a magnet on the toolhead piece which helps prevent the blade from rattling, red would be the pusher block, maybe with its own integrated magnet to help pull the blade back into place

[jagged ice]

the pull back in place part was where I kept getting hung up

[sharp valve]

Yeah I'm not fully convinced that this magnet approach is going to work well

Other idea is to have the handle hook into the pusher block

Yeah I think I'll drop this design, it puts stress on a thin part, ends up being a really tight fit, and wouldn't really move smoothly when hooked against a fixed arm

Instead, back to a #17 blade, sliding like your design, and a handle which hooks into the pusher block to move it back and forth

[sharp valve]

Blade kit arrived, along with some cheap asa which should hopefully be less warp prone and thus better suited to prototyping than cheap abs, if we want smaller blades, these box cutter ones could work too

But tbh #17 blades look like nearly the perfect size

[round oracle]

@sharp valve did you end up testing the rewinder?

[sharp valve]

nope, not yet

[sharp valve]

redesigned the cutter for #17 blades, but meh, too tired to deal with printing it out tonight

[sharp valve]

Need to tune the flow rate and slightly expand the cutout for the blade, but looks like it'll work

[jagged ice]

oooh

[sharp valve]

once I've made the pushing block meant to grab the blade and tested mounting it, I could probably modify the fronts to have an integrated version

so far this asa is seeming really nice, almost like pla with abs properties

if this continues I might not mind the slightly higher cost and just switch to asa instead of abs

Oddly enough, the filament is being pulled out fine even without a functioning cutter on it...

[naive echo]

You might want to fine tune your Z offset. Looks like you might be close too judging by the rough and bulbous bottom edges.

[sharp valve]

Yep, I had panic lowered my offset at the start of the print when priming, but didn't notice the excessive squish on the camera

[sharp valve]

Ok, everything fits right now, so next comes the pusher block, probably going to need to make it adjustable

[round oracle]

and raise that first layer a little 😛

[sharp valve]

Installed

[sharp valve]

this ought to do for an adjustable pusher block mount

[lapis berry]

Thank god you gave it a haircut, I seen the first picture and feard for it's life

[dapper thorn]

I am very intrigued 😉 this is definitely something I was looking in to, with the ERCF

[sharp valve]

Hahaha

[sharp valve]

Got around to putting in the arm, seems like it should work, but is a little flimsy

Probably need to make the base a bit taller so it pushes properly against the 2020

[sharp valve]

Adjusted the design slightly, reprinting

[sharp valve]

Ok resolved that issue

[sharp valve]

Hmm

Seems to take a bit for the blade to snap back out

added a separate retract position to have a bit more force in pulling the blade back out

now to try an actual cut

Still too flimsy, now the arm itself is bending too much to cut

[sharp valve]

If I try to force it, the belt skips first, so maybe this sort of direct cutter just needs too much force

Necessitating a lever design

[round oracle]

FWIW that arm looks weak too

but direct might be an issue

unless you can "bang it"

[sharp valve]

Yep, it's too soft, but I tried to hold it and have the toolhead move to cut and it skipped

[sharp valve]

Ah yeah, that's another issue, this approach doesn't really allow for building up much momentum

[round oracle]

but at this point lever with spring sems better

[sharp valve]

Yeah, will see what I can devise, maybe I can still keep it simple

[round oracle]

I do like this approach https://www.printables.com/model/745039-eva3-filament-cutter-for-dragon-hotendorbiter2

jon was thinking about it but he's too busy atm

[sharp valve]

Yeah, I'm just avoiding having to mod the existing parts

Maybe something like this

Probably have to make the base a bit thicker and stronger, but otherwise I feel it ought to work

[jagged ice]

I like that more, I think.

[jagged ice]

I've put a lot of thought in how to avoid that. The gap in the front is perfect, because there are two mounting holes right above it to attach the cutting arm to (the holes are from the accelerometer).

[sharp valve]

Oh yeah that's a good point

[round oracle]

ohh true, is there room foe the blade? or needs an adjustment on the front?

then a lever to the left or right maybe

[jagged ice]

it is an 0.8mm tall gap, and the blades are ~0.5mm thick

[sharp valve]

Took a break from the printer, got back to it today, will see when I get a chance to fiddle with cutter designs again

For now, oddly, it's working fine even without the cutter

[sharp valve]

hmm, I think my belts keep getting loose, considering trying the evantis

although I can't entirely rule out belt stretch

since while these did claim to be gates belts, they were from creality off amazon

[jagged ice]

er...I doubt those are gates belts, then

do they say "gates" in white lettering on the back?

[sharp valve]

yep

maybe I should order less sketchy ones anyway

[sharp valve]

Aaaaa that's what I get for not properly checking before starting a print

The vertical shell thickness options in the orcaslicer beta can override the top shell layer count, so it printed just 1 top layer...

Some of these might be salvageable but most are a loss

Welp, there was a slight layer shift anyway

At this point I'll just spend the time to properly check the belts

[sharp valve]

oooh I can swap out my dubious quality chinese rails for honeybadgers and get stiffer gt3 belts

[sharp valve]

went for that, ended up saving ~$33 with the sale fabreeko has right now, both y axis rails for the price of one, and 15% off the x rail, gt3 belt and the heat set insert tip I've been wanting for a while

[dapper thorn]

Only problem I foresee is GT3 is both different tension and such. But if you have the modded parts to suit, should work well 🙂

[sharp valve]

the page claims they're tooth compatible with gt2 though?

[dapper thorn]

is the width the same though?

I thought they were wider

could be wrong ofc 😄

I know tension is diff though

[sharp valve]

seems to have the same 6mm and 9mm options

[dapper thorn]

ah cool cool

[sharp valve]

scared me for a bit lol

https://www.fabreeko.com/collections/zero-g/products/gates-gt3-open-belt-ll-gt3-6-9-reinforced?variant=44113135894783

the optimal tension will be different but otherwise seems to be compatible

[dapper thorn]

Aye, but yeah that is easy to adjust for

[sharp valve]

yep

[sharp valve]

Redid the belts, got rid of the extra zipties, does seem like they're being held properly by the clamps

So I guess no need to bother with trying another toolhead, for now I'll just continue and see if the issue pops up again, either way I'll be redoing the entire corexy part anyway when the rails and belts arrive

Ah I guess getting the honeybadger 330 rail rules out checking with fysetc for getting a lightweight rail made

[sharp valve]

while I'm at it I guess I might as well take another shot at switching to an rpi4

[dapper thorn]

aye nice, good for a bit more power for cams etc

[sharp valve]

Yep, right now I have a webcam streaming from a server next to the printer, but I'd really rather use the manual focus arducam I have

[round oracle]

took me a long time but I found that my auto focus one can actually be manual, just by software

[sharp valve]

Yeah one of my webcams has that, but this haos setup doesn't seem to allow fiddling with the v4l2 parameters, I'm using a fixed unchangeable focus one instead right now

Was considering also grabbing a 48v psu lol but probably best to push that into next month's upgrades, for after I've swapped out the rails and belts

If my shapers are still terrible it probably won't be worth it anyway

[sharp valve]

Ok nice, this time the pi 4 works fine

[sharp valve]

restored my configs, now to plug it in and hope for the best

[sharp valve]

ah this looks much better while driving the camera

[round oracle]

looking good, I added mine to frigate today to have automatic recording when it's on, problem, recording somehow gets sped up

[sharp valve]

Maybe their stuff is assuming a certain framerate

I'm dealing with a bunch of stuff simultaneously now, first I accidentally dragged the nozzle on the bed and lost one of the screws from the rapido, so looking for that, and turns out that the most recent klipper version breaks the klicky macros so I have to figure out how to rollback

[sharp valve]

Man I don't think I've ever had a screw just completely disappear like this

[round oracle]

thats easy

check #klipper

[dapper thorn]

you have discovered the dimensional screw portal. We all experience this at some point 😉

[sharp valve]

Hahaha

[sharp valve]

Oooh thanks!

[round oracle]

I experience it every time I work with anything with screws, well not just screws about anything

[dapper thorn]

Aye, i tend to experience it quite often lmao

[sharp valve]

Oh I was looking in the wrong baggy for spares, found one

That'll hold me over for now, will order spare parts for the hotend before testing my luck again

[dapper thorn]

awesome 🙂

[sharp valve]

Huh, surprisingly dfh seems to be the cheapest option, ae doesn't even seem to have the screws, and west3d and fabreeko are out of the heatblock and have it at a higher price

[dapper thorn]

mine is printing atm so cant double check, but arent they just m2 or m2.5 stainless steel?

wait, I might be crossing my wires

nope, rapido, cool lol. doing too many things today lmao. Is yours v1 or v2?

[sharp valve]

V2

I think they're supposed to be titanium? They hold the heatblock so they're supposed to not conduct heat very well

[dapper thorn]

ahhh those ones, yeah they are more specialty

Trianglelab are always a good option if willing to wait for ali shipping, they are licensed to make the rapido

[sharp valve]

Yep they're my go to, I was surprised they didn't seem to have the screws

[dapper thorn]

aye definitely!

[sharp valve]

Alright, spares ordered, was very tempted to buy other stuff too but managed to contain myself lol

[dapper thorn]

the struggle is real

😛

[sharp valve]

Indeed

Every time I tell myself "ok, now I'm done and don't have any upgrades left"

Well, now that I have the printer out of the enclosure, I might as well take care of other things while I'm at it

Such as this mess in the making I just found

Will just take the time to practice crimping and swap these out

Couple of parts to swap out too and maybe I should just wait till Monday since I have to take apart the entire gantry anyway

[sharp valve]

Disassembly done, now just waiting for the new rails and belts to arrive

Have a bunch of other changes to make afterwards, probably going to swap out the spring type couplers on two of the leadscrews with the ones from the hydra kit, and maybe replace the rear z linear rail with the 330mm one I took off from the x axis instead of the 300mm one I have on there right now, haven't needed that much z before, but might as well do it

The rails I took off seem almost fine, but the x rail has a bit of noticeable looseness to it which might've been causing some of the input shaper issues, the y rails also have a very slight looseness, but probably not enough to contribute

[sharp valve]

Hmm I thought a 350mm rail was expected to just about fit on an e5pro

Technically this fits but makes tension adjustment a pain

Maybe the static tension towers will have to be one of the first things I print after reassembly

Actually looks like they might be a bit thicker and thus not fit

Ah since I'm not all that interested in having the full 350mm in travel distance, I could just mod the towers to have room in the front for the rail to go through

[round oracle]

might weaken it a little

I checked and double checked 350 on the sides is hard, on X fits with a small cut on each side I posted mine somewhere on #1007998760967737364 (not latest version)

stopped using them because lightweight

[sharp valve]

ah yeah, on x I'm using lightweight so it's 330

There's also the option to slightly mod the static towers to hang off the front, screwing into the front and side of the extrusion

Just barely enough to tension lol

[naive echo]

You might be better off to use the static towers mod in #1007998760967737364

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1158391843269115904

I'm using them too, they're quite nice.

[sharp valve]

Yep, they're still probably a bit too thick, my plan is to slightly modify them so they can screw onto the front

[round oracle]

how about a little cut in the stepper towers

with static tension towers

[sharp valve]

In the front for the rail? Yeah, that's an option too

Maybe the better option

[round oracle]

might help align towers better too

I always struggle a little to position them to avoid belts grinding

[sharp valve]

Also switched to the stiffer GT3 belts so there's a different tension to tune to, so the little extra adjustment room would be nice

Yeah that too

Huh, GT3 apparently is best at 240Hz lol

That seems excessive

[round oracle]

oof

I wonder if the stepper axle can handle it

Zeanon had a chart on that IIRC

[sharp valve]

Yeah about 15 lbs of force on the axle, apparently can be pushing it for the axle and pulleys

Luckily it isn't as if 240 is absolutely necessary to get it working

[oak ridge]

It will not handle it without a double shear mod

[round oracle]

figured as much

[oak ridge]

Luckily the stepper mounts are quite open and hanging off the back so it shouldn't be too difficult to mod it.

[sharp valve]

Yeah looks like the ldo 46mm shaft steppers will fit perfectly with a bearing on the bottom of the stepper tower

Would probably also have to replace all the bearings and pulleys with higher rated ones

[sharp valve]

Ok cool, the machine lives

[lapis berry]

I like your thinking to attach din rail to profile I'd never thunk if that.

[sharp valve]

haha I was too lazy to do it properly, you can probably do better with a proper clip

it was supposed to be temporary until I got an mmb for the ercf, but has become permanent until I can get around to switching to ercf v2

[lapis berry]

Lol, I know how that works. So many projects here at the working but need finishing stages here

[sharp valve]

Yep

hmm, x shaper improved slightly but still not all that clean

y shaper is also similar

ok so the static tower won't fit as is from the front after all, will definitely be better to add a cutout for the rail instead

[round oracle]

just cut in the stepper towers I'd say

as less as you can get away with

[sharp valve]

I don't think the stepper towers have the room

[round oracle]

well shit

[sharp valve]

The tnut is right by the edge

Making a cutout in the static tensioners will work

Would mean getting rid of that indent to align with the extrusion, but the rail itself will substitute fine anyway

I'll make the mod after dinner

[round oracle]

oh right completely forgot the screw was there

[sharp valve]

hmm I hope this orientation will be fine...

[sharp valve]

slight adjustment, only really need the cutout to be ~10-15mm deep

so this should allow for the second tnut

[sharp valve]

Rip another pei sheet lol

Should've thought to recheck the switch offset, although I'm not sure why that would change

Ah, maybe I should buy another sheet or two on AE given the sale

Always good to keep spares around, even though I already have two additional sheets

257x257 ones for bambu printers work nicely

LOL got around to opening the package of rapido spare parts

I thought it was weird that the replacement screws came in packs of 11

Turns out that was the length, and it's just 1 screw

For $2.50

I guess that's enough reason to be way more careful with the screws in the future

[sharp valve]

Mystery solved, the x offset of the sexbolt changed ~3mm so it was probing slightly against the edge of the klicky switch tip rather than against the body

Did still have to redo the switch offset by ~0.5 after fixing that, probably due to the point on the klicky body being probed being slightly different

Reprinting at lower speed and accel after initial go had a layer shift

[sharp valve]

Ok nice, the modded static towers will fit perfectly

[sharp valve]

Oof got them in and should last but will have to reprint, I think I pulled the heatset insert from one, and the other one is stuck as I probably should've sanded it more

[sharp valve]

managed to fix them, but I don't trust the front inserts much anyway so I'll still print rear ones for whenever I touch the belts again

x shaper isn't changing much

[sharp valve]

y isn't that great either, ended up mounting a portable input shaper to get better readings

uhhhhhh

I guess at least it's clean

y is still horrible though

eh I'll just setup klippain

[sharp valve]

hmm

apparently I shouldn't be seeing those vertical lines, indicating some sort of interference with the printer

I wonder if printing the feet in TPU was a bad idea

[sharp valve]

second peak seems to be the bowden and usb cable, probably also the umbilical

[sharp valve]

a lot better, had a belt potentially slightly touching a stepper tower, and noticed a slightly loose screw on the toolhead board mount

(switched back to the toolhead input shaper)

[sharp valve]

Definitely rubbing

The other side is fine

This tower keeps rotating slightly until it touches against the belts though

[round oracle]

tighten more?

or might not handle belt tension

[sharp valve]

If it were just belt tension I'd expect both sides to have slipped, but the other side is fine

Maybe the towers aren't aligned properly along the y axis, so one is getting more torque from the belts

[sharp valve]

Hmm yeah, was a few mm off on x actually, reseated it and seems fine now, can see a gap between the tower and belts, shaper curves haven't changed though

But they're a lot better than before so I guess I'll settle for now

Thinking of trying to reprint the feet, maybe using thicker walls and more infill

[sharp valve]

Nvm just ordered some off amazon, not worth the effort for $7

[sharp valve]

Next thing to improve seems likely to be the cooling, one 5015 is nowhere near enough for a pla benchy at even just 5k accel

Static cooling seems like a better idea than cpap or dual 5015

[round oracle]

go dual 5015 or cpap

5015 for budget option

[sharp valve]

Dual 5015 would be pretty easy considering I already have a bunch laying around

Eh, yeah, might as well try it anyway

[sharp valve]

actually, dual 5015 might not work

one variant would probably not allow the nozzle to reach the sexbolt

and the other would probably eliminate the already narrow clearance I have for the purge bucket

[naive echo]

What Sexbolt STL are you using?

[sharp valve]

I'm using the unbolt from the community mods

#1177778236864872509 message

[sharp valve]

ah, actually I guess it'll work? looks like due to their height, the fans will be above the extrusion and thus shouldn't touch anything

also figured out why the springy lead screw couplers aren't recommended for hydra, they're almost definitely responsible for some of my leveling issues near the rear corners

swapping them out with the fixed ones from the kit

[round oracle]

I have sexbolt, and dual5015

use owl eyes from e34m1

[sharp valve]

My concern was x clearance for cutting and nozzle purging, but yeah looks like the fans from the owl inlet are high enough to not affect clearances

Anyhow, switching to fixed couplers didn't fix the effect I was seeing, but it should still be letting me probe slightly faster, at 5mm/s instead of 2

[round oracle]

been running 8mm/s fine

[sharp valve]

Ah I'll try that too then

[sharp valve]

at the risk of jinxing myself, so far the rpi4 has been working great, have been able to use the arducam I had gotten just fine

[sharp valve]

Owl eye inlet installed, also used this chance to swap out the toolhead board mount, I'd just been using the ebb36 mount for the orbiter on the sherpa (so the umbilical was at an angle)

The airflow feels pretty impressive

I also noticed that the inlet is actually slightly thinner than the single 5015

[sharp valve]

Ahhh too much cooling for running without a sock now

Seems like the socks are all sold out except from AE

[sharp valve]

Oh well, I guess I'll have to wait for AE shipping, retrying the print it seems to be fine maintaining tenperature when not printing

Going to just drop the max fan power for now

[sharp valve]

Ended up deciding to print evantis s anyway to see if I like it

[sharp valve]

Ugh the problems never end, print was going great and then sudden layer shift

Nothing sticking out to hit against, tension is fine too, had slowed it down already to 100mm/s

Enclosure is at 50c, main board at 62c, rpi at 70c

A bit high but shouldn't be enough to cause missed steps

Happened a few hours in so maybe the steppers overheated, but then I'd expect to see more than one shift

[sharp valve]

Hmmm, so the layer shift was diagonal, and kinda seemed to slightly build up before the large step loss

Additionally a magnet fell out of the klicky attachment point near the start, and turns out one of the titanium screws from the hotend fell out too, I had renoved the magnet before the toolhead hit it

Running belt shaper to verify because I don't think it's a tension issue

Yeah belts are fine

[sharp valve]

Looks like the stepper driver would report an error to klipper if it was overheating

[round oracle]

could be due to higher tension?

[sharp valve]

The tension is actually only set to ~130Hz right now

And anyway part of my reason for changing belts was that I figured that maybe my previous belts weren't genuine gates, due to layer shifting

I'm wondering if maybe the steppers themselves are overheating

They're rated for 2A peak current, so 1.4rms, I have them set to 1.2

[sharp valve]

I guess to test I could stick thermistors on them and run a print without loading filament

[round oracle]

what's the stepper brand

my LDOs have gone through long prints with enclosure at 40C to the point of not being able to touch them with my hand without issue

[sharp valve]

They're stepperonline ones from Amazon, seems like a good quality brand to me

They do seem to get hot enough to burn if touched

I already had heatsinks due to arrive today, so I guess I could try and see if those eliminate the issue

[oak ridge]

its not just about the brand but also the rated temperature, stepperonline is a quality brand but just like LDO they have all kinds of different models

OMC (stepperonline) have a high temp stepper in case you want to use them in a (high temp) enclosure

[sharp valve]

hmm I see

I had my eyes on some ldo motors with longer shafts and iirc higher temp tolerance, might get those

dug up the datasheet for the specific steppers I'm using

[sharp valve]

Actually, looking at the parts properly, there was still layer shifting after the one big noticeable shift, which makes the overheating theory make more sense

[sharp valve]

replacement feet are in, and yeah, my tpu prints were way too soft, probably weren't absorbing much

[oak ridge]

Is your printer enclosed?

[sharp valve]

yep, enclosure gets up to 50c, so pushing right up to the ambient temp limit

[oak ridge]

Yeah you might start to see layer shifts then

But it might still be fine

Rated doesn't mean it's a hard Limit

[sharp valve]

previously I'd been leaving the enclosure slightly open at the bottom, which caused the enclosure to be around 40c and I don't think I saw issues at that time, so that also points towards possible overheating

yeah I understand that

[oak ridge]

Yeah might be worth looking into it

[sharp valve]

Ah I really should've measured the temperature before putting in heatsinks, but looks without enclosure they sit at 48c

[sharp valve]

man I get the weirdest hotend failures

the screw had popped out because the heatbreak had snapped and molten plastic had pushed out the screw

luckily I just bought spares

[sharp valve]

Soaking the nozzle and melt zone extender in some acetone to clean up the threads and then hopefully everything will go back together nicely, have to become more careful with moves that might drag the nozzle

[dapper thorn]

ouch yeah definitely not ideal

[sharp valve]

Yep, just finished putting everything back together

If I keep turning out to be prone to this, I think I'll just go back to the chcb hotend

Much cheaper replacement parts

[dapper thorn]

definitely!

[sharp valve]

So far I've blamed the hotends, but at that point it'll be time to accept it's me 😅

[jagged ice]

dude I am so far behind. you modded the static tension towers for 350mm rails? lollll

[sharp valve]

Haha yep

[sharp valve]

Wtf

So, was just testing everything after reassembling the toolhead, and the hotend heater just switched itself on...

Like, nothing done in the interface, just noticed the heater light turn on in the thr36 and saw the temperature start to rise in klipper

Hurriedly unplugged the heater and restarted klipper, which seemed to fix that

But now I don't know what to trust

The heater only seemed to shutdown once I issued the reset, so hypothetically if I wasn't monitoring, it'd probably have kept dumping into the heater even after reset

[sharp valve]

Kind of heavily considering running only the heater wires down into the electronics bay and sticking it with a relay

[sharp valve]

for now I've just decided to give it another chance since it's been fine since then

on another note, also increased the microsteps on all my steppers, pi3 used to timeout with that, but so far pi4 is doing fine, quieted things down nicely

[round oracle]

how much

[sharp valve]

From 16 to 64

Did it for all except extruder and mmu steppers, since those weren't particularly noisy anyway

[round oracle]

need to try that, processing power I have to spare

[sharp valve]

Haha you sure do

Apparently it's like having interpolation enabled but without the slight positional inaccuracy

[sharp valve]

Ah yes, setup steppers over bluetooth

2804ah steppers, higher temperature tolerance, and close to maxes out the capacity of the 5160 drivers on the leviathan

[sharp valve]

Nvm rethinking this, they seem to be somewhat controversial

[sharp valve]

Water cooling the steppers sounds like a fun project, even if probably overkill

Or going overboard with fans, that could be fun too

[dapper thorn]

the 2804s have major VFAs at 24v and unless pushing them to extreme. For general but fast use 2504s are the way to go

[dapper thorn]

that's.... not good

[sharp valve]

Yeah, that's what I took away from looking through annex discord, cancelled that order and decided to see what I can do with my current steppers for now

[sharp valve]

Yep, was very concerning, but has been fine since then

So I'm not sure whether or not to do anything about it

[dapper thorn]

as an example of the 2504s, both Precurssor and I run them and are pushing very fast. My official record is 8m26s speedbenchy, precurssor is at 6m48s

thats on 24v aswell, we both havenn't done 48v yet 😉

[dapper thorn]

definitely keep an eye on it. If you havent, update to latest klipper. Hopefully not a problem with that particular CAN board

I know everyone says to never update, because issues can technically happen, but I like to keep with latest fixes lol

[sharp valve]

Oooh

[sharp valve]

Yeah that's another one I'm constantly tempted to do, particularly since my board already allows for it, just a matter of getting a psu

[sharp valve]

Already on the latest, around that time I was tidying up the wires on the toolhead so I'm wondering if maybe I did something that happened to put it into flashing mode, and iirc this board does have the issue wherebthe heater turns on in that mode

[dapper thorn]

ooooo yes that could definitely explain it! maybe bumped that accidentally. It probably just has all outputs high/on when in flash mode, which would definitely do that

[sharp valve]

Yep

[dapper thorn]

I reckon you are on to something there, definitely

[sharp valve]

For now I also took off the 3010 fan I had mounted on it, since it was a pretty tight fit on top of the wires and might've contributed, I'll mod it so it fits properly

[dapper thorn]

Ah yep, fair, good idea to fix it up properly definitely

[round oracle]

thr36? mine doesn't heat up when flashing

[sharp valve]

Oh hmm you're right, the instructions don't actually say that, I must've mixed it up with another board, I thought they had a step along the lines of "make sure the printer is off and the board is powered by usb before placing in flashing mode"

Noticing right now... printer is idle but that hotend temperature looks wrong

[round oracle]

maybe extra care IDK from what I remember ebb had that issue on first versions

[round oracle]

what thermistor is it? 37C you might be able to tell by touching it (just be careful)

[sharp valve]

Pt1000, switched recently, did try touching it, didn't really feel like it was that much warmer than everything else, so it could be a loose or bad unit

[round oracle]

I had issues with a thermistor that would only have good readings above 100 something, stopped using it

let me check mine

[sharp valve]

Oh I'll just stick my chamber thermistor on the block and see what it reads

[round oracle]

an option

just checked mine

30 hotend vs 21 on bed and chamber

could be lack of precision at low temperature

[sharp valve]

Yeah that's probably it, confirmed with the chamber thermistor that it's actually at the same temperature as the others

[sharp valve]

Dozed off for another 4 hours after that lol, but yeah, still no luck figuring out why such a lack of precision

It's an ~70Ohm error

[sharp valve]

Ooooh ok so, I think I've figured out the "spurious heating"

So, both the red lights on the board turn on when klipper errors out, similar to when the heater is on

And in a hurry I had caused that by unplugging the thermistor, it could be that the other led was on, and the "heating" showed because of the increase in resistance until I managed to pull the thermistor connector out

[sharp valve]

Getting back to the thermistor reading though, checked with ohmmeter and the pt1000 is reading right

Yeah, so I think I just had to calibrate the pullup resistor

Was able to calculate the value it'd need to be at for the temperature to match the actual resistance, had to change it from 4700Ohms to 4583Ohms

[sharp valve]

Checking the adc reading at various temperatures, that fits nicely, now the reading at the adc has very good agreement with the predicted resistance for that temperature

[dapper thorn]

aaah, so a spurious reading rather than true heating - that would bea much safer option lol

[sharp valve]

Yep!

[sharp valve]

To calibrate the pullup resistor, I measured the baseline resistance at the pt1000, checked the expected temperature in this

Then the pullup adjusted so that the reading matches the table

[round oracle]

something worth doing a writeup for #1121069867227938816

[sharp valve]

Yeah I'll try to put together clearer instructions

[sharp valve]

#1221171973225189560 message done

[jagged ice]

Ty. I don't have the brain power to figure out what's going on today, but I will tomorrow. 😆

[sharp valve]

haha

the short version is just that the slight difference in the pullup resistor value matters a lot more at lower temperatures than it does at higher temperatures, because the pullup resistor is typically much larger than the resistance of the pt1000 at lower temperatures

[sharp valve]

Spent the day playing around with accelerations and currents for the steppers, running right up at the rated limit doesn't seem to be worth it, and I'll definitely have to fix this now

[dapper thorn]

aye, past about 70-80% max run current, they just get heat soaked and lose efficiency bigtime. You can push a bit more with better cooling, but at some point the motor just becomes saturated unfortunately

[sharp valve]

Yep, plus I figure that the frame rigidity or other aspect of my build are the limiting factors right now

[round oracle]

how much you reached

[sharp valve]

I seem to be able to do 20k reliably without losing steps (accel)

had skipped steps at 40k, and then the stepper with that burned connector stopped working, so I figure I can't do without replacing it now

[sharp valve]

oh man I hate crimping so much

finally done

[sharp valve]

I guess I'll get to printing out the remaining electronics enclosure improvements

Replace the petg mounting bracket for the leviathan with an asa one, place a 4010 on top of the rpi, which should also end up cooling the drivers, add wire clips along the sides, finish up the skirt (probably with more fans in it), find a suitable mount for the skr pico and redo the cable management on the ercf, with crimping and all

It'd also be nice to intergrate an ethernet port and at least one usb port onto the skirt

Also trying to think about how I could mount the ercf on top, but the tent enclosure isn't very well suited to that

[sharp valve]

Decided to get a btt mmb, hopefully hooking it into canbus will sidestep the skr pico's random disconnects

[sharp valve]

Mmb arrived, mount will hopefully finish printing by the time I have it flashed, and looks like the uhf sock and cht melt zone extender will arrive by the end of the week

[sharp valve]

This looks a little tacky lol

Ah not clear enough, the text is "BTT MMB" in large letters

[sharp valve]

Mmb is in, I want to get some quick solder connectors to shorten down all those excess cables

[sharp valve]

fit testing the mantis filament cutter on eva34m1, it'll almost fit as is

the arm just slightly interferes with the pis mount

won't be small, but it looks nicer than anything I'd come up with

could maybe even merge the mounting plates with the top piece

tbf, the pis can mount to a 4010 fan, so it wouldn't be a big issue to just have to switch to the standard front

[sharp valve]

ended up just modding my previous design lol

[sharp valve]

Ah should've bothered to test that the steppers were working too

Stepper 1 isn't working

hmm, ruled out the stepper motor itself

...

I think the board might be busted

now it won't even power on over canbus

[sharp valve]

Yep, while the usb port does cause the led to power up right, the board itself doesn't show up

Weird

Gonna assume it was just defective and get a replacement

[sharp valve]

Otoh maybe I can just give in and wire straight to the leviathan

[sharp valve]

Yeah all the wires should be long enough for that now, and I can probably solder up a little adapter to power the servo from the 5v buck

[sharp valve]

ok yeah that seems to have worked out nicely

wiring is even messier inside the enclosure and the clips I had printed turned out to not fit, so I'll have to get back to it again

will probably just do the entire skirt and bottom panel then, and maybe have the wago clones clip onto a mount hanging from the frame

[sharp valve]

Cht flow extender and uhf sock is also here, so next comes swapping that in

[sharp valve]

my awful luck continues

the cht extender broke when fastening it

[sharp valve]

doesn't look like I can unscrew by grabbing the cht insert

[sharp valve]

Ah whatever, ordered replacements, I'll fiddle around and try to get it out over the weekend, else just swap it out

[sharp valve]

ah I see, it was mostly copper, which probably explains why it was so soft

[sharp valve]

Maybe I could get better leverage on the threads by feeding through some filament and letting it cool down

[dapper thorn]

is that the TL one?

[sharp valve]

Yep

[dapper thorn]

woof, i will be extremely careful when testing mine then for sure

bugger dude 😦 that is a pain for sure

[sharp valve]

Yeah definitely, be careful not only with the extender itself but also when tightening the nozzle, I'm considering getting one of those nozzle wrenches that limits the torque

[dapper thorn]

not a bad idea definitely, been thinking the same tbh

[sharp valve]

ended up getting the slice engineering wrench, plus a sailfish hotend as a backup

I have a bunch of chc heaters, but since I only have the v6 heatsinks for them, they're unusable

sailfish is a bambu clone with the same mounting pattern as rapido, entire hotend costing as much as a rapido heatblock

Eh nvm the sailfish, I'll just be patient, maybe see if I still have everything I need to reassemble the ender3

[sharp valve]

Well shit, now I'm thinking of building the enclosure frame

[round oracle]

it never ends

[sharp valve]

Indeed

[dapper thorn]

https://tenor.com/view/palpatine-dewit-gif-11426456

[sharp valve]

Gotta price in panel costs to make sure I can afford it right now

[sharp valve]

$300 in panels...

otoh looks like I can hand cut some of them, which will make that much cheaper

[round oracle]

all PC?

ACM might be cheaper

[sharp valve]

I was thinking acrylic

[sharp valve]

Ah I see acrylic can warp in an enclosure

Yeah I guess I'll look into the other options

[sharp valve]

yeah sendcutsend is still absurdly expensive, but the panels that can be hand cut are fairly cheap off Amazon

[sharp valve]

wooo replacement heatblocks are here

[sharp valve]

tightened with the slice torque wrench, hopefully it works out fine

since interestingly, the wrench comes with a calibration certification showing their measurement results for the unit

sock fits properly too

[jagged ice]

why does a torque wrench need calibration certification? 🤔

[sharp valve]

They set it to specifically 1.5Nm, I guess they've determined that's what's needed for properly tightening a nozzle

The certification just shows that they measured it to be properly set at 1.5Nm

[jagged ice]

did not expect a cool answer, got a cool answer. huh.

[sharp valve]

Speed benchy test now that I can dial up the cooling fan speed without hitting thermal runaway on the hotend, still flawed, but much much better than before

Discovered the fun little issue that if I have the led strip on, there isn't enough juice to power the servo fully

Going to have to reduce it from 150 leds 😅

The power supply ought to be more than capable I think, but I'm probably pushing too much current

[sharp valve]

20 minutes, 20k accel

[sharp valve]

The cooling feels asymmetric

Strongest in the middle, which makes sense, the side with the fan intake pointing to the back feels stronger than the side with the intake pointing towards the front

[sharp valve]

Finally I can print the updated filament cutter prototype

I'll take my time on deciding when to get the enclosure, the tent does work, just looks ugly

[sharp valve]

cutter looks like it should fit right, lever holes line up right too, the handle is probably a little too long and I should probably add something to limit how far out the lever can go, but overall looking good for trying a test fit in the morning

[sharp valve]

Need to use a slightly longer spring, don't need anything to limit the rotation of the handle since it turns out that the blade's inability to rotate much takes care of that, do need to add a bit of a counterbore to the handle so I can stick a shorter screw in there and not have the head jutting out

need to make a pusher block, and shorten the handle by ~15mm

[sharp valve]

how to make the handle look better though 🤔

[round oracle]

needs rounded corners

or chamfers

[sharp valve]

hmm yeah, that should help

[round oracle]

also a little more square pprofile might look better, this way looks like a plank

[sharp valve]

ah yep, I made it a bit thicker anyway since it was flexing a bit when cutting

[round oracle]

hmm still looks kinda clunky

maybe it's the size

I assume you need it long like that

[sharp valve]

yeah, it needs to be a bit long for the lever to be effective, although I did shorten it by 15mm compared to the photo

maybe I can shorten it by another 10mm, the other cutter designs use a shorter lever

much better, this should stick out just a little past the fan

[round oracle]

might look better

[sharp valve]

printing it out, next to design the pusher block

[sharp valve]

Ok yeah, this should look much better

[sharp valve]

Looks less clunky

[sharp valve]

probably won't get the chance to make and test the pusher block and fiddle with this until next week, so here are the files in case you guys want to play around with this

uses a number 17 blade, an m2 self-tapping screw for holding the blade, 2 m3x8 screws for the fixed spring retainer and for the lever hinge and iirc an m3x12 for the lever side spring retainer

spring is just a pen spring I cut to fit

goes under the extruder mount

[sharp valve]

I think this should make for a decent pusher block

[sharp valve]

huh looks like I really don't need the rounded bit sticking out

[sharp valve]

setup, here's hoping the lever adds enough force

[sharp valve]

ugh, won't work

cutter needs a little more travel for the blade and the pen spring doesn't seem to be stiff enough to pop the handle back out

Hmm maybe the blade travel is fine, sticking in the stiffer spring used on the e5 bed apparently works

Not sure why a stiffer spring would make the cutter more effective though

Ah yeah I guess that was just a fluke, will just increase the blade travel, not that big of a change anyway

[sharp valve]

Was too tired to deal with reprinting and reinstalling last night, printing now, blowers for static cooling should also be arriving today, hopefully I can get back to working on the purge system too, I can put aside working on the smart purge for now, but I really do need a nozzle wiper

[sharp valve]

Lol now that's a new situation triggering the clog detection

The bowden tube for the neighboring channel got stuck in the spool

[jagged ice]

[chaos emoji]

[sharp valve]

lol

Cutter with extended travel works far more reliably, will have to try modifying the spring mounting a little though, pen springs aren't stiff enough, and the bed spring gets slightly too compressed

[sharp valve]

these adjustments should do, added a slight notch which should prevent the blade from sliding out, and no more need for screws to retain the spring, also spring goes a bit deeper on the arm

actually probably a little too deep

[sharp valve]

https://www.printables.com/model/840779-eva34m1-filament-cutter

[sharp valve]

I thought I was prepared for how comically large 120mm blowers are, but lol

[sharp valve]

Wiring side is taken care of, added additional ports onto my little bentobox fan splitter board, 2 additional connected to the bentobox pins for stepper cooling fans, and another splitter for the static cooling fans

Moved the neopixel strip control pin onto the mcu too instead of esphome because the lights seem to interfere with power to the ercf servo, now I don't need to figure out some complex arrangement to automatically turn the lights off when making servo movements

[round oracle]

yeah they're big

[sharp valve]

configured the LEDs to automatically turn off when the servo needs to be engaged, kinda hacky, but I can't be bothered to figure out why this weird power issue is happening

I guess it could be due to the wire thickness, the buck converter can do 15A, and the tentative draw for 150 neopixels should be ~60mA, so 9A total

adding in the 1.2A max of the servo, gets to 10.2A, which is probably way too much to push through 22AWG

[sharp valve]

next I get to make a camera arm

[jagged ice]

and lOUd

[round oracle]

naaahhhh

[jagged ice]

my first COTS enclosure came with one for filtration and one for exhaust. I don't use those for SUAFT for a reason, lol. they're gone.

[round oracle]

but they're fun for speeeeeed

[jagged ice]

so is an F-15, but I don't run those around the house, either 😄

[round oracle]

I'd have one.... if I could

[jagged ice]

OT: carrier pilots in the US Navy need [X] carrier landings a year to recertify, and some of those have to be at night. And some of those they give the pilot fake emergencies, like debris on the deck. https://twitter.com/Combat_learjet/status/1777841354753921217

[round oracle]

interesting, some airports also require X landings for pilots to keep their "certification" for that specific airport IIRC, Madeira is one of them

[jagged ice]

SE Asia has a couple like that that are high altitude, have hairpin turns, etc. I'd be curious if the U.S. has any.

[sharp valve]

Oh yeah, they're loud, but easily muffled by the enclosure

[sharp valve]

Cutter is cutting reliably now I think, did have the spring fall out, so printed out the updated design to see if it sufficiently retains it, I kinda feel like just cheating and using a thread to hold the spring

[dapper thorn]

why not?

[sharp valve]

Just feels hacky lol

[dapper thorn]

Lol

[sharp valve]

Might've stripped the ercf servo arm again, going to try printing it in pla I guess

[sharp valve]

Got the static cooling fans mounted, but was kind of a massive pain, I think when I switch to the beta enclosure, I'm going to mod these to mount from the side rather than bottom

for now I've set it as the auxiliary constant speed fan from orcaslicer, but I feel like I might want to tie it to part cooling

test benchy got over cooled and popped off the bed lol, better quality in that there weren't holes in the side, but still not perfect

[jagged ice]

benchies are not meant to sail, but they do 😦

[sharp valve]

Hahaha

[sharp valve]

rethought my purge bucket design

[sharp valve]

Should hold a silicone brush

Also, yeah, spring for the cutter will need to be held via string

[sharp valve]

...

Bearing stack popped out

But the holes seem fine...

[jagged ice]

dafuq

[sharp valve]

Top piece is also fine

I think the bottom piece did break, seems like it's supposed to be taller than it is

Well, shit, I don't have spare parts either

Maybe I have everything I need to rebuild the ender 3...

[sharp valve]

Can't find the one piece I'm missing to reassemble the belted z, so I'll have to go all the way back to a near stock ender 3

[jagged ice]

ah, shit. need one of us to ship the stepper mount to you?

[sharp valve]

No it's alright, will probably be faster to reassemble, will just be annoying to do everything manually again haha

I'll be back to stock hotend for it, hopefully it can handle asa

Well it's just one piece so I guess it should be able to manage

[sharp valve]

Mostly reassembled, just need to mount the hotend and wire up everything, I think I'll just use an skr pico with the old rpi3

Unfortunately I'll have to deal with a bltouch for now since I can't find the old z endstop

[sharp valve]

Just need to replace the bed and then wire everything up

The toolhead isn't abs so I might have to try printing without the enclosure

If that doesn't pan out, I guess I can print out a shroud in htpla and then use that in an enclosure

[sharp valve]

Mostly done, just a little wiring left, will take care of it tomorrow

[jagged ice]

damn that was fast

[sharp valve]

remaining wiring is done too, just powered on and setting up klipper now

[sharp valve]

It lives again!

But damn I really got used to the speed of the mercury's heaters, this bed takes forever to heat up

Won't even bother trying to bring it up to 110c, just going to use adhesive at 70c

[sharp valve]

4 hour print, probably won't be particularly pretty since I've done almost no tuning, but all I need is for it to be usable

[trail verge]

We actually reworked that

https://docs.zerog.one/changelog/mercury#lightbox_new_steppertower_pilar

[sharp valve]

I recall reading something about that before, will be printing out the updated parts first once I have the mercury back up and running

Ah yep, I'm still using the ones where one of those pillars is teardrop shaped

[sharp valve]

Looks like the part will turn out pretty decently, thinking that since I'll be rebuilding the motion system with the updated files anyway, maybe I should also upgrade the bearings to the berserker ones

[sharp valve]

For now I'll just replace the parts, but next month I think I'll do the bearing upgrade, switch to uhp psus and add 48v

In the mean time I'll just work on improving the ender 3, the old linear rails happen to be the right sizes for it

Damn this came out really nicely for an essentially untuned machine

[sharp valve]

I need spool holders which hold the bowden tube... had the 1.1.6 part print fail 15 minutes before finishing due to the spool getting caught in a tube again and the jam having weakened the pillars at a layer

[jagged ice]

dayum, nice

[sharp valve]

printed all replacement parts, just finishing up the spacers, found this cool autorewinding spool holder design to try https://www.printables.com/model/508473-tire-for-silent-auto-rewinding-gravity-spoolholder

[round oracle]

I like those but... I fear they dont roll enough

[sharp valve]

yeah it'll only do ~550mm with a near full roll

I actually haven't really felt a need for a buffer lately, as long as I feed from the bottom, the excess just get loosely rolled around the spool with TUSH holders

I just thought the design was cool and was looking for more stable spool holders

||plus I have a near full roll of TPU I can't seem to find uses for||

[sharp valve]

making these camera arm parts in cadquery was less of a pain than expected

this should use m3 screws (idk why all the other arms use atypical screw sizes for 3d printing), and allow mounting an arducam camera to the csi-to-hdmi adapters

[sharp valve]

Perfect!

[round oracle]

looks wiggly

[round oracle]

good view though

[sharp valve]

yeah, view is good, it feels sturdy, but if it turns out to still be wiggly, I might just go with a fixed mount

now to try printing that purge bucket again

[sharp valve]

next up also need a ptfe tube guide, since it's smacking into the otherwise stable seeming camera

[sharp valve]

this thing has to be cursed

first time it broke the motion system

this time it keeps randomly pausing and stops extruding

[sharp valve]

Ok reset the mmu state since it seemed to be totally messed up

[sharp valve]

almost good enough

the left most piece should allow for easily adjusting the mounting height, bucket just hooks into screws, making it easy to remove, the little panel slides into the bucket to the bottom, so to empty it, you just take the bucket out and pull the panel up

and a silicone brush fits on the side

[sharp valve]

ah that mount won't work, nozzle can't reach

[sharp valve]

New somewhat intrusive, probably stupid mod idea, replacing the top Y axis extrusions with longer 2040, and moving one of them to the back, such that the back has more travel room for accessories

Came to mind as I was thinking about how I should probably try shimming and squaring the top when I take it apart to replace the printed parts

[sharp valve]

on slightly less weird ideas, I wonder if modding the bentobox to take a 120mm blower makes any sense

[sharp valve]

Finally getting around to sorting out these ercf issues I've been having recently, had some configuration issues (like not retuning the stallguard based filament homing stuff, turned those off for now)

Seeing the sherpa idler arm filament sensor's glitchiness that @round oracle mentioned

I don't remember anymore why I stopped using your sensor design, and I think I still have it laying around, will try it again

[round oracle]

hold a sec

@sharp valve

[sharp valve]

oh that's a clever design

thanks, will print that one out

[round oracle]

not.mine

someone on Annex shared

[sharp valve]

Ah I see

[round oracle]

been wanting to use that idea to make one more similar to the sensor I made but I'm giving up, will print that one

also please give feedback on it

[sharp valve]

Will do, already printing

[sharp valve]

the switch seems to be slightly too far to be pushed by the ball bearing

[sharp valve]

thought about it a bit more and decided to try putting the post-extruder sensor again instead

since happyhare can compensate relatively nicely by looking for contact against the gears for extruder entry, but depends on sensors for reliable exit

[sharp valve]

Looks like that might've resolved the issues, neatly enough happyhare has stress testing macros now, so letting it run 10 load/unload cycles to verify that everything is working as expected

Current cutter design is seeming reliable for now

Swaps themselves worked flawlessly, did get a blockage in the hotend, probably due to not fully purging the previous cut, causing a lot of small cuts to pile up

[sharp valve]

Filament slipping returns D:

[sharp valve]

looks like this time it was from using longer tubes at the input...

back to being usable for now I think

Going to try to do some hueforge prints tomorrow to verify

Next time I build an mmu, it'll be a tradrack, ercf is cool, but man it's so sensitive and needs so much tuning even with the redesigns

[jagged ice]

Traaaaadraaaack

[round oracle]

well that's concerning, I'm not fond of adding it under extruder

[sharp valve]

I'm not a fan of how thick the under extruder sensor is but otherwise don't really care where I put it

Making it smaller would probably require an unklicky style sensor but with tiny magnets, probably would be a pain to assemble

[round oracle]

I had it but stopped using for some reason, I like mine except 2 things, becomes too tall on my enclosure it's not very good, and the filament sometimes gets stuck maybe some adjustments on the entry work

but having less weight and height is something I wanted

guess I'll really have to adjust the sherpa to add a sensor in the same style as I did and ecas

[sharp valve]

Yeah I think I had the issue with the filament getting stuck, the height is just barely within limits for my enclosure with the post-extruder sensor

[round oracle]

and because I want a cutter as well, I either merge it in the eva or add as a layer above

another layer is too damn high

[sharp valve]

My cutter only adds ~3mm in height

Would be neat if I could squeeze in a sensor into that space

This might be a good way to integrate a small sensor in there, the wiring might end up having to be conductive tape to keep things this thin

I have some tiny 2mm thick magnets which would fit

Could also be an excuse to get and play with conductive filament 🤔

Or I could get rid of the need for the tape by having a series of magnets in each channel, that'd allow enough room to just have wires directly touching the magnets

meanwhile, fit tested purge bucket, almost perfect for mounting in the back

[sharp valve]

Reprinting, I want to add some sort of pellet forming, but without active parts adding to the wiring

For now thinking I'll try doing it against a slope I've cut into the silicone brush and add any guiding features needed to drop the pellet into the bucket

Need to also print out a screen mount, it's really annoying trying to fiddle with the klipper ui on mobile while debugging issues, having controls right on the printer should help with some things, especially wrt the ercf

[sharp valve]

nozzle can't reach the brush...

maybe mount to bed

ah can just about make enough room if I move the pei plate slightly (using bambu plates)

[sharp valve]

Ok finally got it in a decent place

Going to move the brush in slightly so it doesn't interfere with the bed, but otherwise this ought to do

[sharp valve]

I am so close to just going for beacon and accepting doing a paper offset adjustment every other print

[sharp valve]

Aaand cutter's spring retention thingy snapped

Spring bounced off to god knows where 😅

Once the blade sliding has worn in the surface, a pen spring seems to be sufficient, so then maybe I don't need to use such a strong spring

So probably just need to increase the tolerances for the blade slightly

[sharp valve]

problem solved I think

Mismatched colors aside, looks much better with a smaller better fitting spring too

Should be rid of the spring falling out issue too since the arm can't move back far enough to let the spring out, no more screws needed on the retention part either

And the spring is indeed enough to pop the arm back out now

[sharp valve]

Well, I said I was going to sleep, but couldn't wait to setup klipperscreen, so while still super jank until I find the other adapter that would fit better and print a better case, at least I have a more convenient way to deal with mmu stuff

[sharp valve]

Decided to print out some storage bins to start cleaning up the mess of smaller printer parts littering my entire room

For once it's a non test print that actually lets the merc flex its speed

Was outrunning the rapido uhf at normal pla temps, had to dial up to 240c lol

[sharp valve]

Maybe a little too fast lol

0.8mm line width, up to 0.4 layer height, 400mm/s 20k accel

[sharp valve]

yeah, too fast, usable prints, but some holes in the walls

[sharp valve]

Oh maybe I wasn't outrunning the hotend, the heater wires may have been just slightly loose enough that the rapid movement made them disconnect

Found that if I pull on the cable, the heater disconnects

Reseated it, I hate the tiny screw terminals on toolhead boards, very tempted to just solder on the heater wire, it has a second connector anyway for replacing the heater itself

[sharp valve]

Nvm, heater struggles a bit to keep up even at lower speed

Anyway looks like I can manage a similar print time at 0.4mm linewidth

[jagged ice]

what's the wattage on your heater?

[sharp valve]

90W

[jagged ice]

good lord are you heating plastic or igniting random objects?

😄

[sharp valve]

Lol

I was pushing around 40mm^3/s

Rapido Uhf claims 70 iirc, but I remember reading somewhere that the number they state is a "best case"

Something like their test being at max temperature and with a larger nozzle

[jagged ice]

yeah, I believe it's a big nozzle and 300C

MY NOZZLE IS 1.8MM AND I EXTRUDE SO FAST IT'S INSANE

[sharp valve]

Hahaha

If I hadn't broken that cht adapter pushing this much might've been alright

[round oracle]

Rapido heaters, I believe mine is closer to 115W actually

[sharp valve]

yeah I think the rapido 1 has a more powerful heater, but rapido 2 supposedly makes up for it with the heatblock design

[round oracle]

ah right forgot you got the 2

[sharp valve]

they've recently released a 2F where the heatblock is wear resistant

[sharp valve]

Caved and ordered a beacon

With klicky I'm just no longer confident in its results, my first thought with first layer or z offset issues is that klicky fluked

[jagged ice]

I'm not getting flukes, but a touch of drift at 45-50C+

what kind of microswitch are you using?

[sharp valve]

Unklicky

The thing is, the samples are consistent, I have the sample tolerance set to 0.01 and it still doesn't end up needing retries, but then I print and the first layer is uneven

So I figure that a second kind of probe, especially a high resolution one like Beacon will help me better understand what's up

[jagged ice]

I can see Beacon helping with identification. Wondering if it could be structural (warped X axis extrusion, etc.)

[sharp valve]

Potentially, although I'd expect something like that to behave a bit predictably

[jagged ice]

ah, that makes sense.

[sharp valve]

Beacon ought to be showing up today

In the anticipation I totally forgot to print out the appropriate horns to mount it 😅

[jagged ice]

Good news, they were just updated for RevH...yesterday.

there were mounts, but cuiviemen made better ones

[sharp valve]

haha yeah, that's what reminded me

[jagged ice]

i need to order mine now

oooh, forgot I got a deburring tool and Gates belts for my Plus in my KB-3D order. now I'm super excited about it.

[sharp valve]

plain GT2 belts, the high temp version or 3GT?

[jagged ice]

plain GT2. my plus never gets enclosed anyway.

[sharp valve]

ah I see

I recently realized I have all the parts needed from the og e5pro for dual shear modding the stepper towers to run higher tensions on my 3GT belts

just waiting for the metal stepper towers to try

the bearings might also not be good enough to deal with the extra load from higher tensions, but I'll figure that one out later, haven't been able to find much information on load ratings for bearings

[jagged ice]

radial bearings?

[sharp valve]

I'm not sure I understand how those are different from the ones the merc already uses?

I don't really know much about bearings

[jagged ice]

the ones merc uses are radial ball bearings. they're 600-series flanged radial bearings. F695-2RS = F(langed) 695 (series) - 2RS (sealed on two sides).

The larger the bearings inside, the larger the load capacity. You're probably looking for skateboard bearings or similar in size, which are 608 bearings.

[sharp valve]

ah I see

[jagged ice]

bearings fascinate me.

[sharp valve]

I guess that'd involve a total redesign of the motion system

probably not worth it unless the potential gains are really big

[sharp valve]

welp, delivery delayed to tomorrow

pretty annoying after it sat around for several days, but eh, I guess I should just focus on other work

[jagged ice]

KhaosInc (I think) did this and dropped the motor down. used a rod and coupler (think like the new HevORT steppers).

[sharp valve]

yeah I recall seeing that, although iirc they did it more due to wanting to move the steppers than wanting to tension the belts more

[jagged ice]

yep, but it has that as a bonus. 🙂

[sharp valve]

yep

[sharp valve]

ok beacon should arrive today, printing the duct

[sharp valve]

It's here!

Printed the horns too fast first time around, would've been usable but didn't look that good, reprint finished right as I got the package

[sharp valve]

[round oracle]

🥓🥓

I'm fuckin jelly

[sharp valve]

😆

it's very cool

now to run some high resolution bed meshes

huh

oh, had a strand of plastic under that bump

better, but not as good as I'd like

[round oracle]

.25 ouch

[sharp valve]

Comes down to .18 or so if that dip at the edge is ignored, but yeah, still not great

Guessing frame squareness issue

[oak ridge]

With or without your build plate (pei)

[sharp valve]

With pei, had been meaning to check if it'd work without, yet

[oak ridge]

Quality steel plate or Ali?

I've seen big differences between a quality printplate Vs 3 from AliExpress (all different shops and brands)

[sharp valve]

yeah not a high quality plate, just one from the pile of ali/amazon discount plates I've collected

scan without the pei

most of the bed is within 0.1, but still has a bit of a twist

the raised edges are interesting though

My understanding was that beacon scans the metal underneath, so presumably those edges aren't from the magnetic sheet not being applied properly?

[sharp valve]

I think I'll take apart the motion system and start by doing some of the maintenance it has needed for a bit

[sharp valve]

oh, I should be doing these with the bed warmed up

[sharp valve]

hmm

[sharp valve]

Seems slightly off to the eye at least

I've been working without sleep for like 40 hours now though, so will deal with fixing this tomorrow

[sharp valve]

fixed and reassembled, didn't change the bed much (although it does seem less 'twisted')

that raised corner does come down when I move the printer around though

[sharp valve]

my belts move up and down a lot on the bearings, which I'm unsure if it's due to the bearings being bad quality or maybe the washers aren't the right thickness

[jagged ice]

if this just started, it's a reassembly issue.

[sharp valve]

nope, part of my reason for taking it apart was to try to diagnose that, I noticed that the bearings can 'tilt' a lot, which seems wrong

that is, if the inner ring is fixed in place, the outer part can tilt up and down a bunch by finger

[jagged ice]

this seems not right

[sharp valve]

figured, I haven't seen any other bearings do that, but didn't have any f695's to compare

maybe I'll finally pull the trigger on berserkers

[jagged ice]

if you don't wanna go so expensive, fushibearing on Amazon is all I use.

[sharp valve]

Ooh thanks! Yeah I was trying to avoid the expense for now but hadn't been sure about the options on amazon 😅, I'll get the fushibearing ones for now and worry about switching to berserkers later

[sharp valve]

replacement bearings are in, by hand it does feel like these tilt less, will have to put them in to be sure

[sharp valve]

Bearings replaced, belt still seems to slightly shift up around

Running a shaper calibration for now, maybe the slight movement doesn't really matter

[sharp valve]

hmm, no changes, still recommends ~10k on the y, and x is something awful like 3k, very likely due to the cutter arm

[jagged ice]

could it be the frame?

[sharp valve]

I think I've got the frame sqaure now, although just going by the eye

[sharp valve]

I haven't actually printed anything since putting in the beacon, so time to do that 😅

[jagged ice]

yayyy

[sharp valve]

It looks so goofy lol

[sharp valve]

ok, now to try printing out an autorewinding spool holder

I'm hoping the beacon eliminates my previous struggles with large flat prints

I'm combining a bunch of mods, https://www.printables.com/model/69223-quieter-more-reliable-gravity-spoolholder-frames-a for the rewinding mechanism, https://www.printables.com/model/556736-base-for-gravity-spoolholder for the base, https://www.printables.com/model/215987-gear-retainer-for-gravity-spool-holder to prevent the gears getting misaligned

and https://www.printables.com/model/207071-42-68mm-nut for better spool compatibility

😭

The rest there came down perfectly so I guess maybe it's the pei instead

been a while since I washed the plate, will try again after washing

Ok, perfect layer now

There's still this slight gap issue I can't seem to figure out that happens sometimes

The weird thing is that it's consistent

In terms of layers

But inconsistent in that it doesn't happen on all walls

[round oracle]

weird, speeds?

[sharp valve]

Maybe, going to try slowing way down for that area

Currently set to 400mm/s at 5k accel for walls

[round oracle]

such short walls not sure if they reach that speed

[sharp valve]

Yeah definitely not

They don't even seem to reach 200mm/s there, capping to 100 seems to actually limit the speed and seems to have fixed those, so maybe 5k accel is too high?

Ah maybe I should adjust the slowdown setting for small perimeters

[round oracle]

idk, I'm running 5k for outer walls, 8k for inner

[sharp valve]

Yeah my impression is that 5k ought to be perfectly fine

[round oracle]

Zeanon runs higher values with good quality IIRC

[sharp valve]

Hmmm

I do kinda feel like it's probably something wrong with my build specifically, but, I've verified the frame is square, replaced belts, replaced bearings, replaced rails

I've been kinda paranoid about my toolhead being loose for some time, but haven't noticed anything every time I've taken it apart to check

[round oracle]

could it be the gt3 belts

[sharp valve]

Have had this issue with gt2 as well

[round oracle]

ok not that then

did you check for skew?

[sharp valve]

I've had it for a while, just kinda ignored it for the most part, but now that I'm low on things to upgrade, starting to focus more on this stuff

[round oracle]

califlower or other similar

[sharp valve]

No, I haven't, that's a good idea, will test that

[round oracle]

https://www.printables.com/model/164261-calibration-bro-califlower-calilantern-calibration

[sharp valve]

Thanks! Will print that next

[sharp valve]

oh, I thought I had adjusted the pressure advance setting, but looks like it hadn't applied

that's going to be another thing to test I suppose, redo PA calibration

[sharp valve]

Ugh new issue

Oh nvm

OH

[sharp valve]

so this happened because I turned down the temperature slightly

and the gap from above was also mitigated by slowing down

maybe it's simply going too fast for the temperature

[sharp valve]

so far the beacon seems to be doing well, been through several large area prints with perfect first layers after cleaning the pei and avoiding touching the print area

just a couple more parts to finish the spool autorewinder

[jagged ice]

was the setup hard for Beacon?

[sharp valve]

Nope, pretty straightforward, it comes pre-flashed so you just mount it and plug it in, install the beacon plugin for klipper and run the calibration command

https://docs.beacon3d.com/quickstart/

[sharp valve]

Autorewinder is kind of done

Printing pieces to keep the gears properly engaged, the spring to help it roll back down doesn't seem to be very effective

[sharp valve]

Yeah didn't roll back down when the mmu unloaded

Going to wait for the pc4-m10 collets to arrive before concluding if it's an issue with the design

[sharp valve]

oh the spool holding nuts are backwards

ah that seems to have fixed it

I think the part I especially like about this design is that because of how it feeds from the bottom, even if the rewinding mechanism doesn't work, the excess filament just loosely wraps around the spool

[sharp valve]

The solution to overly hard chocolate

[round oracle]

hpw do you have the leds mounted on the toolhead?

also what's the red filament you used

[sharp valve]

A piece like this but without the top half https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539890

[sharp valve]

Paramount3D's Iron Red

[round oracle]

thanks, unfortunately not available in yurop 😭

[sharp valve]

You can try looking for cherry red or shadow red, which seems similar, also some similar color options from https://filamentcolors.xyz/swatch/paramount-3d-iron-red-pla-62/

(Although mine was of course abs)

[round oracle]

led strip nice

[jagged ice]

that website is a fantastic resource

nice folks running it too

[sharp valve]

yep, I'd send them samples too if I bought any decent brands of filament lol

[round oracle]

pretty cool, one concern though, not every camera captures the same way

oh wait you ship them the samples

[sharp valve]

yep, plus the color is measured with a spectrophotometer, so it'll be a more 'true' measurement

it would be even better if they also measured transmission distance, but alas there aren't any automated tools to measure that

would make it so much easier to pick filaments for hueforge

[round oracle]

need a nice red for the rat rig

their green hurts my eyes, and it's to build with my kid so he picked up the colour

[sharp valve]

lol apparently I am not allowed to have a week without something needing to be fixed on this thing

looks like the screws holding the rear z axis in place at the top shook loose

maybe I should get/print a T-plate to reinforce that attachment point

[sharp valve]

ok fixed, replaced the drop-in tnuts with spring loaded ones

[jagged ice]

loctite or lock washers ftw

[sharp valve]

Yeah I was considering loctite, but put it off for now

[sharp valve]

So yeah, this is a flow rate thing

If I raise temperature, the flow rate increases just enough that some of those edges fill in correctly, but some parts show higher flow rates in the slicer, which do not sufficiently fill up

Looking around, it turns out that under more typical temperatures and pla, the flow rate is only ~25mm^3

And my flowrate cap in slicer was 40

Plus probably made worse by hardened nozzle and silk pla

Which also means that I can take a break from print speed mods because I'm hotend bottlenecked

[sharp valve]

The right bowden couplers for the spool autorewinder arrived, they do indeed make the rewinder work reliably, it forces the excess filament out right under the roll, which applies the slight kick needed to cause the spool to roll back down the ramp rewinding the excess

[sharp valve]

Ordered another of those cht melt zone extenders, hopefully the torque wrench means the extender won't break

Also the 1.5mm fysetc magnet sheet, my current one is a bit of a mess

I think I've finally tricked out this thing as much as I can for now, custom frame will have to wait a few months

[sharp valve]

well since the beacon seems to finally be a good enough leveling solution, printing out the electronics enclosure skirt

\o/

[sharp valve]

Since I'm going to be redoing the electronics bay to add the skirt and bottom panel, add fans for cooling, clean up the wiring and a few other things, I wonder about redoing some cables and sleeving others...

I'm currently using 22awg silicone wires on everything

Maybe I should beef up the power carrying cables at least

And with that comes the issue that the thr36's screw terminals are the annoyingly tiny kind, so beefing up the power to it seems challenging and maybe I'd be better off just soldering the wires to it

But then again since I have beacon maybe it'd be even better to get the canbus+usb cable

Since silicone cables tend to be so annoyingly soft they'd probably look far better if properly sleeved

And there's the mass of cables from the ercf to manage too

Oh there's one more thing I had wanted to try in terms of tricking out the printer, I didn't end up really liking the static cooling system, but since I don't have a sexbolt to maintain room for, I can try remote cooling

Thinking of seeing if I could make something like this but for 2 120mm blowers https://www.printables.com/model/418203-dual-5015-to-cpap-manifold/

[sharp valve]

Nvm, did some reading

120mm blowers would not have enough static pressure at the lower speeds I'm thinking of to push air through the hose

[sharp valve]

Huh pretty weird near failure

Ecas popped out of the sherpa, filament kept being pushed through, no blockage, the excess filament somehow got behind the steppers and hooked onto a heatsink and managed to fling the heatsink onto the bed...

I caught it before the hotend hit the heatsink but wtf lol

[sharp valve]

Still ended up with slight layer shifts at that layer, but eh, might be fine on the skirt

I think the ecas kept popping out because the ercf mount slipped down a little and caused the bowden tube to be pulled a little too tight near the back

Resolved for now by making the tube longer, really need to settle on a better place for the ercf though, I want to have it somehow above the printer, but my tent enclosure isn't tall enough

Been trying to decide if maybe I should cut a hole for the tube on top and put it outside

[sharp valve]

Took a few hours to finally just learn a proper cad program

Was able to piece together how to work with freecad well enough going off expectations from blender and cadquery

Since I already have a bunch of acrylic, I figured I might as well try modeling the parts I would need to make a top hat with it

[sharp valve]

Oh this is seeming potentially easier to design than I expected

[sharp valve]

since now I don't need to worry as much about precise y-axis homing, dropped the endstop in favor of sensorless, simplifies wiring a little

[sharp valve]

hmm, for the front of the hat, can't make up my mind on the kind of door I want

there's the easy option of just sliding it off

or the more complex option of some sort of hinge

I think I'll make it slide up, with the lid being hinged instead

[jagged ice]

slide...up?

[sharp valve]

similar to this design https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1174466049178083368

[jagged ice]

oh, the top slides up. thought you meant the front door, lol.

i misread "front of the hat [...] door" as "front door"

[sharp valve]

ahh

the front of the top hat

one sec

This piece

[sharp valve]

this should cover the hat's base, plus supporting the bottom panels for the sides

ah, rear hat base will need mods too

and then once the panels come in and I can do a fit test, I'll take care of the top half

oh and I guess with the rear I also need to think about ercf mounting

or maybe I should put it on top 🤔

I'm wary about putting it on top since the enclosure is going to be all plastic

yeah rear should be better

and instead of trying to mount it to the enclosure parts, I think I'll just mount it separately via some extrusion, so I don't have to design a special part for it

[sharp valve]

So far everything fits well, panels arrived (just standard 12x16 ones off amazon), they'll fit, although 12 inches in height feels like potentially too much

Also occurs to me that all the extra margins I'm adding to be able to use these cheap panels that aren't necessarily cut perfectly will probably rattle a lot

Might have to cut out foam padding to fill the extra space

[sharp valve]

oh neat, problem solved

turns out to be easy enough to drill holes in the panels with a dremel

so I can make more rigid attachments

[sharp valve]

I think I'll try without screw holes first, and if necessary, add them

but at least for making the doors, being able to drill holes makes things much easier

[sharp valve]

I should have all the parts I need now, got the extra extrusions for ercf mounting too and spare filament should show up today

Replacement bed magnet also should arrive today, still need to figure out how I'm going to remove the current one, but hopefully it's easy enough

[jagged ice]

I recommend using a 5 in 1 tool, putty knife, or the like. Tear it off, then use Goof Off or acetone to remove the glue.

Be prepared to have LOTS of glue come off. You may end up needing to use a razor blade or putty knife to scrape the last of it off.

i've done this three times now and it always sucks (but sucks less with the above tips)

[sharp valve]

Ooh thanks for the tips! fortunately I previously bought way more acetone than I could use

[jagged ice]

lol, same.

home depot doesn't believe in small packaging

[sharp valve]

Well, got a whole bunch of stuff arriving tomorrow, bed magnet, cht melt zone extender, cht nozzles, metal stepper towers

[sharp valve]

@cyan gyro 's metal stepper towers arrived!

Annoyingly the other stuff has not, usual mess where the mailroom is closed on weekends and so I guess I have to wait till whenever they decide to make the second delivery attempt

[sharp valve]

Oh neat, I didn't realize that the magnet sized for the one.1 pro bed actually has the zerog logo on it

Cht melt zone extender and nozzle are in, avoided overtightening due to the slice torque wrench

This does have the issue that it doesn't come with holes cut for the screws

So I guess I'll have to cut those myself

Huh, looks like one of the part cooling fans broke

[cyan gyro]

I really like those magnets

[sharp valve]

Yeah it feels really high quality

[cyan gyro]

They feel a bit stronger than others, and the surface coating is nice

Cutting holes is a bit of a pain

[sharp valve]

Any recommendations on how to go about it? I figure I'll just have to take a hole punch to it

[cyan gyro]

I will see i I can find pictures of what I used

I think I used a step drill bit and deburring stick

[round oracle]

got one of those on the way

[sharp valve]

Ah that might be better, can make the holes after putting it on then

[sharp valve]

Surprisingly easy to get the magnet off, heated the bed to 95c which I guess softened the adhesive enough that I was able to slip a printer scraper underneath and slowly pop it off

[sharp valve]

Cleaned up and installed the new magnet, ended up slightly misaligned despite having seemed to be aligned at the edge 😩

But it'll do

didn't bother with holes for now, I'll cut them in when I end up needing them

[sharp valve]

Stepper tower parts printed, will sand down the dowel pins and assemble tomorrow

[sharp valve]

Metal towers installed

Looks like I'll have to modify the rear panel holders to have a little more room

[cyan gyro]

They look good with the red spacers

[sharp valve]

Yep

[sharp valve]

Hmm looks like they're still sticking to May for beacon contact release, so some time this week

[cyan gyro]

Yup, that is what I read over in the annex server

[sharp valve]

Back to working on the custom enclosure, getting close to the bare minimum for assembly I think

Still need to design the top half, but might be able to do without that for the moment

[sharp valve]

Huh, enclosure got warm enough to soften the pla servo arm on the ercf...

Just needed it to last a little longer till I could actually keep it outside lol

[sharp valve]

doing first print with beacon contact

doesn't really indicate much but nice to have

[sharp valve]

as part of it I switched to dangerklipper for the macroless sensorless y homing

Also ended up setting up velocity pid for the hotend, seems to work well so far, it doesn't overshoot when heating like regular pid does

Saves a handful of seconds off heating

[round oracle]

been wanting to get containers for DK done

[sharp valve]

If you have a klipper container script, you just have to change the repository url

[round oracle]

I sort of have

I use the ones from prind

but I want to make my own

because I just want to

[sharp valve]

Ah

[sharp valve]

😬

[sharp valve]

I don't think the frame is square

But this is a good chance to maybe fix that I think

[cyan gyro]

If you can figure out a good way to diagnosis and fix it, that would be great

I only had a tracking issue on my first build with the 5 plus, never figured out the root cause.

[sharp valve]

I think I have a possible culprit in this, but feels like there should be some way to narrow down issues using some sort of torque calculations and movement patterns

I think the rear left 2040 is not straight from the bottom

A bit of a pain to fix but oh well

Oh, nope, that wasn't it

So, the issue seems to have to do with the belt tension and the y axis not being properly connected to the frame

Because they're basically only held on by the side plates, what seems to have happened is that the belt tension caused the stepper towers to rotate inwards

The rear x extrusion is blind jointed into the z extrusions, so this causes it to slide inward too, which the plates can't really do too much about

This probably only happens over time due to vibrations

I think this is probably a self inflicted issue due to wanting to run the 2MGT beltsat higher tensions

[cyan gyro]

If you can find a way to blind joint the frame that would probably help

I know your dorm limited

[sharp valve]

Yep, maybe I'll try sneaking in a drill anyway lol

[cyan gyro]

Cordless drills are quiet