3D Printing Shrine

[hazy kettle]

though do you do adaptive meshing?

[grand void]

yeah im using kamp

its enabled by default

[hazy kettle]

klipper has it natively now but yeah that works too

[grand void]

are you running the stock extruder or an upgrade?

[hazy kettle]

on my trinity, or cc?

[grand void]

im still unsure if i go for an orbiter 2.5 or sherpa mini

[grand void]

the trinity

[hazy kettle]

lowkey forgot what extruder this is

[hazy kettle]

@lapis nova once your printer decides to behave, post a make of my file

[hazy kettle]

i'm honestly torn...part of me wants to sell my trinity and buy another CC1 just to have two matching printers, but the other part of me tells me that there's nothing wrong with the trinity...

but it doesn't do abs very well since i have to rig up a diy enclosure

[lapis nova]

yeah I will

[hazy kettle]

did you get it working

[lapis nova]

I just got home, I printed another ring with outer/inner wall order, smaller layer height

[hazy kettle]

weird, i use inner/outer and it worked well

and i did 0.2mm as well as 0.1mm

F100 battery tray - using aluminum foil while i wait for my battery contacts to show up

[lapis nova]

Oh nice

[hazy kettle]

skull

that's with inner/outer?

[lapis nova]

yeah

here’s the outer/inner

[hazy kettle]

should've gotten a better printer

[lapis nova]

There’s still a tiny bit of ringing but it’s on the bottom where tripod foot is

[hazy kettle]

should've gotten a better printer

[lapis nova]

oh fun fact, the deburring tool is only for right handed people

[hazy kettle]

left handed "people" don't deserve nice things

[lapis nova]

I was using it yesterday in my left hand and it was really shitty

I then switched and it was working fine

💀

[hazy kettle]

yeah

they only go one way

[lapis nova]

Well I see a blade on both sides so

[hazy kettle]

no

[lapis nova]

need to make this easier to get off

I just ended up cutting the old one 💀

[hazy kettle]

?

you what

[hazy kettle]

should be just as easy as putting it on

[lapis nova]

[hazy kettle]

just do the same thing with a screwdriver to take it off as you do putting it on

like the readme says

[lapis nova]

I didn’t read jack shit

[hazy kettle]

ok man

[lapis nova]

Perfect photo studio ngl

[hazy kettle]

holy low res

[lapis nova]

💀

erm it’s 48mp

[hazy kettle]

there

[lapis nova]

Yw for the make

Lots of effort for that btw

[lapis nova]

Who tf is this guy

[hazy kettle]

fr

[lapis nova]

Weirdo

[grand void]

sell the cc1, build another trinity if you hate yourself

[hazy kettle]

how about no

[grand void]

wait for another aliexpress sale and get the qidi q2

[hazy kettle]

what’s so good about it

[grand void]

can be run locally and in orca as well

[grand void]

nothing particularly special but you get 1.5gt belts, 65c chamber heating and 370c nozzle + 120c bed. Its also a bit bigger at 270mm^2

its a good package at 350€

[hazy kettle]

sounds nice

[grand void]

it does have the usual china printer software issues tho

nothing terrible since you get access to klipper

and all the macros

I have also ordered the other parts for the sv08 rebuild. Would love to get some 9mm belts and a better bed but that‘d be too much for now

[toxic fox]

Wwg2

[hazy kettle]

sounds right

[grand void]

@lapis nova look new printer you can buy

the image still has the lidar sensor

[lapis nova]

gyatt

$40000

[bronze plover]

My P2S is making weird noises... a rumbling.
kinda sounds like my water boiler...

[grand void]

try putting it in rice👍

[lapis nova]

@hazy kettle @grand void

Fuck this is tempting

Active chamber heating

[grand void]

yeah but its not really worth it as an upgrade from the p2s unless you desperately want 2 hotends

it kinda makes the p2s obsolete at 629€ tho

[lapis nova]

yeah

If it had higher temp hotend I’d really consider

[hollow fiber]

so just a p2s with 2 hotends?

[bronze plover]

less poop when colour switching.
using diff material for support too

[hollow fiber]

im aware

just asking other spec wise

i print with the bambu support stuff a lot so this could be cool

was gonna get a p2s but glad i didnt :p

[bronze plover]

i believe main diff are chamber heating and 2 hotends. also slightly higher plate temp.

[hollow fiber]

eh as long as it prints petg and asa its fine lel

[bronze plover]

in that case, chamber heating will be very useful for ASA

[hollow fiber]

mhm should be nice
little much for the combo personally but worth it over p2s i think

especially for how much less waste and the speed increase ill get

[hazy kettle]

chamber heat matters much less for abs/asa than people think

it more matters that the chamber has acclimated and is consistent, and that printer components have time to acclimate

do a 30 minute soak with the bed at 100° and you’ll be able to print with a 25-30° chamber without warping issues

[grand void]

@hazy kettle now i just gotta assemble everything lol

[hazy kettle]

very cool

[toxic fox]

depends really its more of a case by case and how much you care about mech propeties of print

[hazy kettle]

it can yeah

[grand void]

the issue is that a lot of people act like its the universal solution to warp free parts

which it definitely isn’t

[grand void]

im dreading doing the software part

[hazy kettle]

it's not bad

[grand void]

im the type of guy to encounter every possible software bug out there lol

[hazy kettle]

lol

[grand void]

btw are you running can or usb?

[hazy kettle]

can

[grand void]

im still not sure if i should go can or usb

the ebb36 can do both

[hazy kettle]

canbus is easy once it's set up

and all in one cable is nice

i forget, do you have to run an additional cable for USB?

[grand void]

yeah with the ebb36 v2 theres an umbilical cable that runs to a usb adapter and the type c to type a to the mainboard

[hazy kettle]

makes sense

that doesn't do power too does it

or does it inject 24v into that usb cable

[grand void]

can requires 24v power from the mainboard right?

[hazy kettle]

or from the psu, yeah

[grand void]

im not really sure how to set that up properly. The guy in the tutorial ran the can cable to the power input of the mainboard right beside the psu cable. Unfortunately he didnt show he did it lol

just looked incredibly janky

[hazy kettle]

what mainboard is that again?

[grand void]

manta m8p

[hazy kettle]

just take CAN H/L from here and 24v and GND from your PSU

or you could take it from your mainboard's power input but i don't like doubling up terminals

[grand void]

ok, which connectors do i need for the cable to connect the cable to the psu? Pretty sure i dont just connect the bare wire right?

[hazy kettle]

do you have a meanwell style psu?

[grand void]

sorry for the confusion im talking about this connector

[hazy kettle]

yeah i misread

just smack some of these spade connectors on the wire

if you don't have those, you can just do the bare wire

[grand void]

the l/h connector is just a standard jst 2.54

[hazy kettle]

don't do soldered wire

[grand void]

no worries i didnt plan to solder a wire to the psu

[hazy kettle]

people do that for the mainboard power inputs instead of getting barrel crimps and that's especially where it can cause fire hazards

[grand void]

ill just buy a set of spades. The plan for this project is to do it without any major janky solutions

[hazy kettle]

definitely the simplest solution, and they're good to have on hand

in the meantime there's no reason not to temporarily just do bare wire - just wrap it around the screw post the opposite direction of the screw turning so that tightening the screw pulls more wire in instead of pushing it out

[grand void]

ah no when it comes to 220v power im definitely not fucking around

[hazy kettle]

this is just 24v but yeah

these type of connectors

they should always have barrel crimps, bare wire if you need something temporarily but never solder-coated wire

sometimes people will just coat a wire in solder but the pressure of the screw will crack it and lead to it backing out and shorting

bare wire should be perfectly fine on your psu though

[grand void]

yeah the bed is 220v

[hazy kettle]

ah nice

i come from before the times of mains beds

i forget they're a thing

[grand void]

24v bed on the q2 is so slow

[hazy kettle]

24v bed is all i've ever known

😔

[grand void]

do you know where the control_in cable from the ssr goes on the mainboard? Id assume its the ports labeled bed power?

[hazy kettle]

probably...i'm not sure

[grand void]

im pretty sure it does but ill compare to where it goes on the original mcu

[grand void]

im having to wait a week for the 3010 heatsink fan anyway and i got a lot of other shit to do like xy belt replacements so i can just wait

[hazy kettle]

fair

[grand void]

are you running a filament sensor?

[hazy kettle]

nothing on trinity, cc1 has one but it hasn't been configured in klipper yet

probably going to end up with a nightowl or some other simple mmu though so i'll have to get that set up as well as a toolhead sensor

[grand void]

i didnt plan on running on either but since i bought an orbiter 2.5 and theres a dedicated sensor for it, i ended up buying one. Also does tangle detection and theres an easy tutorial for connecting it to the ebb36

the original sv08 sensor is pretty horrible and sits outside the chamber which is annoying

[hazy kettle]

that's nice

[toxic fox]

Tbh if U print close enough to tg it is

95c gotta actually use CPAP or axials

[toxic fox]

Yup it does

[bronze plover]

Anyone got a print for Step up rings?
mainly looking for X-82mm
All i've been seeing are small steps.

[lapis nova]

No idea how well those will work

[grand void]

Id just buy them on aliexpress

metal in this case will just be superior compared to what you can print at home especially when it comes to getting the threads right

[hollow fiber]

it will be about 50x stronger and cost you less time

[toxic fox]

only time I would print adapters is resin but even then its just way cheaper and better to buy em of ali

[grand void]

@hazy kettle have you replaced core xy belts before? Im thinking about splicing one end of the new belt with one end of the old belt together. With that i could just pull out the old one and the new one will just follow through

[hazy kettle]

yep exactly

that's the simplest way to do it

just tape the ends together or something

[grand void]

doesnt the tape add too much thickness which could cause excessive friction?

[hazy kettle]

how else were you thinking to do it

once you have the tension off the belt, they should be pretty loose

[grand void]

yeah ive already removed the tool head mount and the belts are just hanging there loosely

[hazy kettle]

little bit of tape joining the two shouldn't be an issue

and then just untape it when the new belt is through

[grand void]

its kinda unfortunate that i need to replace the belts at all just because theyre too short for any other toolhead mount besides the original

1.5gt belts wouldve been sick but that adds too much work for now

[hazy kettle]

bummer

[toxic fox]

eh dw abt 1.5 barely any change

[grand void]

yeah but i want that barely bit

printqualitymaxxing lol

[toxic fox]

Just changes Ur 2mm VFAs to 1.5mm lol

[grand void]

so if i make a 0gt belt im basically getting no vfas

[toxic fox]

Wish it was this case 😭

Wire drive would be fun

But atleast fucking steppers and drivers come in

Alotta the higher amp ldo shit is kinda mid to shit ngl

Cm06 and 08 just win straight up

[grand void]

ive recently seen a printer without belts that used some magnetic shit to move the xy axis

[toxic fox]

The linear motors

Have issues

Because we don't have actual firmware that can run realtime

And they have other issues

[grand void]

its a 3 year old video tho so idk if that technology got anywhere

[toxic fox]

Magneto is just a failed gravageheap

Printers are engineered so its good enough not good

😭

Bbl stepper driver tuning is mint thou

[grand void]

I guess thats fine for a lot of people. Id assume the average Bambu P/A series buyer doesnt even know what vfas are

[toxic fox]

Most people don't know shitall

Klipper is a big mess

[grand void]

The key is to act confident despite knowing shitall

[grand void]

is that why some industrial printers run reprap

[toxic fox]

Marlin or reprap

C based

Low language

Like yk canbus is fuckign stupid cuz it's uart

Nothing changes

Host -> UART Packet -> USB signal -> UART packet -> MCU -> UART signal -> SPI signal -> CAN Packet -> SPI Signal -> UART Packet -> Toolhead MCU

Like wallahi

Cuz klipper is fucking stupid

Lemmie find a rant

[grand void]

whys it so popular in consumer printers tho

[toxic fox]

Easy to use

Cuz it's high language

[grand void]

like back then marlin was really popular but gradually got replaced by klipper

[toxic fox]

Give a monkey a computer and it can use klipper

Also compiling marlin is a pita

If U haven't done it

[grand void]

i havent done anything in that regard

id be happy if i dont blow anything up once i got my sv08 reassembled lol

[toxic fox]

Make Ur bed pwm 50% full power is kinda overkill 💀

[toxic fox]

Nah U got this

U seem too cautious to fuck shit up

[grand void]

yeah im the type of guy to read the manual a hundred times and double check everything before firing it up

[toxic fox]

like tbh my klipper hate is overaction tbh It works fine enough

Its just like

Ugh

I would highly advise having a saftey relay that your pi/whatever klipperhost can activate to cut power

[grand void]

How would that work. Im using the BTT Manta M8P with a CB2 which directly slots into the Board

[toxic fox]

yk how theres the extra pins

use one of em to activate the ssr

[grand void]

there are a lot of extra pins

[toxic fox]

the gpios

[grand void]

ah ok thanks. Will see how to do that when i got everything else assembled

still need to wire can, flash the mcus, replace the belts, build the toolhead and correctly crimp all the cables

[grand void]

@hazy kettle just to double check is this correct

[hazy kettle]

looks good

i’d trim as much tape as you can

so it fits

[grand void]

the tape didn’t hold shit so i super glued both ends together

[hazy kettle]

lol

[grand void]

i have better tape but its probably too thick

[grand void]

i was stupid, didnt wait long enough and the connection broke lol

but it was near the end so not a big deal

[hazy kettle]

💀

miss me with that

i enjoy having a printer i can easy work on and access

[grand void]

the core xy belt routing is definitely annoying

but with that trick its definitely much easier

[lapis nova]

bambu

[grand void]

managed to finish the belt replacement today but it ended up being pretty shitty. the top belt intersected with the bottom one. Had to manually route the belts after that lol

[hazy kettle]

😭

[grand void]

im not sure how that happened tbh

[grand void]

@hazy kettle toolhead is getting close to completion. Just need to print the carto mount

just realised how dirty my soldering mat is lol

[hazy kettle]

looks nice

[grand void]

yeah ppa cf is pretty nice. Not sure if i wanna use a carto mount that has room for an endstop sensor tho

[hazy kettle]

might as well, you can always just not use it

[grand void]

ive never had issues with sensorless homing but ive read that the dragonburner doesn’t really works with it on the sv08

[hazy kettle]

bought the Canvas MMU for cc1

$55 seems like an insane value

only downside is it removes the lid, but i'm sure i can find a workaround

downside is...this

[lapis nova]

Lmao

[grand void]

The lid from the cc2 could fit

[hazy kettle]

not sure if i can buy that separately

[grand void]

you can email them saying that you need a lid for the cc2 because you accidentally damaged it and theyll probably let you buy one

ive done that with anycubic before

[grand void]

petgs pretty strong lol

[naive forge]

They just break once in a while, its natural, why i bought a 12 pack of cheap ones

[grand void]

@hazy kettle i dont think this is normal or is it? Extruder Temp shoots up to 250c and then the printer shuts down. Weirdly the extruder isnt clogged or has any other faults

[hazy kettle]

i've...never seen that error

[grand void]

great im continuing my curse of encountering every software issue out there

[grand void]

well i think ive found the issue. Whenever i start a print, the software sets the extruder temp to 245c

i dont know why it does it tho

[toxic fox]

prob preheat but it fucked up lmao

[grand void]

nvm im stupid. Thats just the hotend temperature. I dont know why its called extruder as im pretty sure it was hotend before.

this doesnt explain the mcu shutdown tho

@hazy kettle sorry for bombarding you with questions but you were using an ebb36 iirc? Which size ferrules did you use to connect the heater cartridge to the terminal connector

i dont really wanna do bare wires

[hazy kettle]

not sure sorry, just whatever fit

i have a bunch of random hardware and connectors

[hazy kettle]

are two V0s worth $200-$250

[lapis nova]

the hotend probably almost worth that much by itself

[hazy kettle]

?

no

probably using $12 V6 hotends

[lapis nova]

tool head

[hazy kettle]

no

they're nothing special

[hazy kettle]

@grand void thoughts on two V0s for $225?

Two Voron V0 original kit builds with heavy usage. Both print, no electrical issues, but should be rebuilt for cleaning and recalibration.

Things to fix: hot end cooling fan replacement, stripped bolt on print head assembly, rusty A/B bearings, top cover.

Comes with a box of parts such as replacement temperature sensor, heaters, input shaper, part cooling fan, etc.

Needless to say, Voron printers are not turnkey and they are projects in themselves. Please LMK if you have questions.

looks like Pi 3b+ with SKR mini E3V2 boards

[grand void]

definitely worth it considering a voron 0 kit is usually 200€ for one printer

the things to fix arent a big deal either cost wise

[hazy kettle]

looks like they're selling in the Voron server for $150ish (plus shipping)

and yeah no major issues

they're original V0s not V0.2s, but that's fine

i'm asking what kit they came from

i have absolutely zero need for one of these - much less two - but i've always loved the V0

[grand void]

you could probably fix them and then sell one to recuperate the 200$

[hazy kettle]

potentially

[grand void]

looks like an ldo kit at least the left one

[hazy kettle]

selling a 3d printer sounds like a pain honestly

but i like the idea of having a small and fast ABS machine

(again, not sure what for, but i like the idea)

[grand void]

eh it was actually quite decent for me. All buyers just wanted to see a benchy

[grand void]

for abs the dragonburner would be better

or like an a4t

[hazy kettle]

a4t 🫶

seems like decent stuff

no thb is annoying but no big deal - i could potentially throw an ebb36 in there easily

u2c or utoc

[grand void]

yeah a first gen ebb36 is like 12$

its a v0.1 so not a first gen v0 which is good

[hazy kettle]

yep

[toxic fox]

It's very ass and you barely get Ur money back

[hazy kettle]

yeah that's what i'm worried about with my custom printer

a v0 is probably easier to sell than a custom printer, but still

[toxic fox]

It's all just shit to sell

Better to honestly to minmax if you have the time and put in the effort into Ur machinr

V0 is a pre fun platform though

You could slap 2504mah and run them at 3.5a

[grand void]

or you could do a tommy houghton move and slap nema23‘s at 48v in there

[hazy kettle]

😭

i'm not doing anything crazy

[toxic fox]

tommy houghton Istg is the biggest ragebait channel

[hazy kettle]

might do a thb and a few other minor things

[grand void]

neko, since youre here i have a question for you. I accidentally cut my stepper motor cables in half (lol) and bought a replacement. How do i figure out the polarity of my motor? Id assume with a multimeter but some people were recommending to just plug it in and if its not turning then i need to switch wire pairs

[hazy kettle]

that's the simplest way

[toxic fox]

no pussy shit

3.1nm

bend frame ahh

[toxic fox]

yea that works

other option manually combining the pairs

just connect em together and try turn motor would have much more resistence

tbh you can easily outperform 99% of the consumer printers for sale

just doublesheer so you can actually run the basic 1.5-2.2x tension on gt2 belts

then if needed you can upgrade
Btw go with runice if you wanna buy components cuz they're actually gates profile unlike cheaper shit like mellow

[grand void]

im currently getting outperformed by 90a tpu lol

[toxic fox]

wet ahh filament

[toxic fox]

wait actualy yk my friends v0 nuked it self

due to the regen breaking on nema 23s

[grand void]

can only be moisture yeah

[hazy kettle]

i forget, what did v0.2 change over v0.1?

other than the extrusion-based tophat

[toxic fox]

mini stealth changed, sensorless homing

different skirts I think to make it easier to acess

[grand void]

im still not fully grasping the whole wire pair concept. The cables i ordered have 4 wires. 1x blue, 1x red, 1x black and 1x green but from what ive heard they arent really standardized

[hazy kettle]

doesn't sound like much

[hazy kettle]

lol not at all

[toxic fox]

if they a pair and you manually short em it shoud create alot more resistence

when tryna turn the stepper by hand

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIBERNaMDOU
0:50

[grand void]

thanks. Theres also this drawing of the stepper motor but im not sure if its of any help

[toxic fox]

Pair ac and bd

That would be Ur a- a+ b- b+

[grand void]

and to find my ac/bd im gonna do what the guy in the video did?

[toxic fox]

Nah it's drawn out already U see the screenshot

It shows it

But you can also do that

[grand void]

yeah but how do i figure out which of these wires are ac and bd

idk i might sound stupid but i dont really get it lol

i think someone said that black/green and blue/red are often a pair but since there arent any standards

basically what im trying to understand is if for example black/green go into the ac pins and blue/red into bd or the other way around

[carmine crest]

im selling one for 300

a v0.2

so i would say yeah

[hazy kettle]

they’re v0.1s but still yeah

will buy

[toxic fox]

Doesn't rly matter

Aslong as U have the pairs

[grand void]

@toxic fox doesnt seem like wet filament was the issue. Dried it at 70c for 14h

[lapis nova]

@hazy kettle

[zenith sequoia]

vas

they're wires, so theres no like pairs or stuff that matters

you can paint them all pink

[grand void]

yeah i figured that out now. It was 2am at that point so my brain wasnt really braining anymore lol

neko probably thinks i have an iq of room temperature now

[lapis nova]

@zenith sequoia @hazy kettle https://www.twitch.tv/peyton1524 peep the printing stream - should be up til like 12:45pm CST

[zenith sequoia]

holy crap

hail Mary thing?

painting stream next

[lapis nova]

yes

[lapis nova]

im not painting anything

its all different parts in different colors

these are just the white ones

[zenith sequoia]

ohhhhh

[lapis nova]

@zenith sequoia

[grand void]

that p1s could also be an x2d

[lapis nova]

real

[lapis nova]

@grand void

@zenith sequoia

[grand void]

shouldve done a tractor instead to honor your photography work

[grand void]

the lego concorde….

a man of culture i see

[lapis nova]

yes

[hollow fiber]

where rocky ship

[lapis nova]

hell nah

[hollow fiber]

where rocky ship

[grand void]

where x2d

[hollow fiber]

im busy buying cars on facebook marketplace

as you do

[grand void]

so youre basically jumping into another money draining hobby

[hollow fiber]

yeah but this hobby is cooler

🔥

another volvo

[grand void]

im not really into cars anymore. Has cost me too much sanity and money lol. Id still love to own a novitech 812 competizione though

i still need to do a timing chain replacement on my 1 series coupe and im not looking forward to it

[hollow fiber]

im at the point where im just bored and want to drive something new lel

this volvo is like a grand and shoild be very fun

[grand void]

@hazy kettle do you have a bento box or similar installed in your diy printer?

wait the printer wasnt even enclosed right?

[hazy kettle]

nope i just rawdog it

[hazy kettle]

i use those foam gym floor mats in a cube to enclose it

and generally if you let the fumes have time to settle it’s no problem

[grand void]

secret club of abs fume enjoyers

[grand void]

@hazy kettle toolhead is (almost) assembled

main issue now is finding a proper mount for the ebb36

i printed one but it was for the gen 1 so it didn’t fit

[grand void]

@toxic fox just wanna double check my mains wiring before burning my house down lol.

i have the dc bed side of the ssr going into bed-power

but from what ive seen it apparently needs to go into the bed-out port and i need to wire the bed-power ports directly from the psu

what im refering to

[grand void]

@hazy kettle as a carto owner yourself, how would rate the distance between the sensor and the bed. Everything is mounted according to the carto specs but the screws sticking out makes me a bit nervous lol

[hazy kettle]

should be fine

[grand void]

how are the v0‘s

[toxic fox]

this doesn't go to ur psu

it goes to ur controller board

shit diagram

but that part goes to ur controller

the other part goes to ur psu

[grand void]

yeah its currently hooked to the BED-POWER Ports on the Mainboard. But from what ive heard it has to go to the BED-OUT Ports on the mainboard.

And then the BED-POWER Port goes to the PSU.

I have ordered 16 awg wire for the BED-POWER -> PSU Connection. Should be fine i assume?

[toxic fox]

yea

[hazy kettle]

i hesitated and didn’t get to them before they sold

[toxic fox]

I personally love em

They soo cute

[grand void]

too cute for me lol

i definitely need more than 120mm^2

[grand void]

@hazy kettle are you able to judge if these ferrules are inserted correctly? There arent any loose wires and theyre snug under the clamps. Polarity is also as it should be

[hazy kettle]

i don’t see any issues

[grand void]

Ok thanks. Imma fire up the printer later for the first time. If i dont send a piccie then im probably dead

[grand void]

well im not actually dead but flashing the mcus has me dying inside lol

i at least managed to get the firmware onto the cb2 but thats about it for today. Still gotta flash the mainboard as well as the ebb36 and get can running

[hollow fiber]

@lapis nova a2l?

[lapis nova]

im guessing the L is Large

[hollow fiber]

yeah like 320x320 or smth

[lapis nova]

Not awful

The drawing and cutting shit is cool

$470 for printer only

[grand void]

its more of an a1l neo lol

[lapis nova]

I want to see this bed flinging back and forth lel

[grand void]

they shoudlve gone all the way with the L and do like 500mm^2

[lapis nova]

😭

[grand void]

i wonder if the bed is the same as the h2c

[lapis nova]

Bed slinger that would be wild

yeah pretty sure it is

[grand void]

only 80c

[lapis nova]

well print bed is same size

like u can use the same plates

[grand void]

which is fine mostly but in the winter i always use 80 and sometimes more for petg

[lapis nova]

oh how I want an H2D

[grand void]

the kobra 3 max is about that size. Prints pretty good actually so bambu would definitely be able to do the same. Theyd have to manufacture a new bed tho which wouldve driven up costs

[lapis nova]

yeah and they would release an H2L or something before a bedslinger version

have the flagship get the bed first

[grand void]

they released the a2l at the perfect time to distract from their current controversy

[lapis nova]

what

I live under a rock

[grand void]

bambu basically cut off 3rd party slicers from their network plugin last year you remember

[lapis nova]

oh yeah

now that takes effect?

[hollow fiber]

excuse me?

[grand void]

and someone made it work again and they send him a cease & desist letter which sparked a new controversy cuz something with the AGPL license

[lapis nova]

inshallah

28lbs

[grand void]

this sums it up pretty much

[lapis nova]

idk what the problem is

orca is literally Bambu handy

with a different ui color

[grand void]

theyre all licensed under the AGPL v3 Open source license. And bambus slicer is a fork of prusa slicer/slic3r which are also licensed under the AGPL v3. So bambu basically used publicly available code to build their slicer but forbids the community to modify that open source code

[lapis nova]

Ohh ic

[hazy kettle]

ew gross

why would you buy a big bedslinger

especially a 320mm^2 one, that’s easily achievable in a corexy printer

[naive forge]

cheap cosplay part printer

[grand void]

cobre being a corexy snob

[hazy kettle]

it's not even cheap though

[grand void]

tariffs gonna tariff

[naive forge]

pretty damn cheap for what it is tf?

Not everything has to be a race to the bottom, existing large bed slingers are shit cause they try to make it as cheap as possible

[hazy kettle]

i mean a K2 combo is $500 isn't it

you loose a bit of build area but i'd take that any day

[naive forge]

Yes... but they also try to make things as cheap as possible

It's one of the biggest issues in 3dp scene, they are trying to make shit as cheap as possible so as many people buy it as possible

[hazy kettle]

it’s a race to the bottom in slop

[lapis nova]

starting to think cobre just a hater for everything he doesn’t own

[hollow fiber]

youre the guy who calls mirrorless overkill btw

same thing different hobby

[lapis nova]

real

[hazy kettle]

i own junky corexy printers and i’d take them over a nice bedslinger

[grand void]

the trinity being the junky one

[grand void]

you should buy the a2l

perfect fit for you