#3D Printing Shrine
1 messages · Page 5 of 1
INDX works similar to Vortek so its basically an H2C
Nah
INDX on paper is just better, but difference may not be major enough to notice
yeah for me its a cost factor and that i like having a printer to tinker with. First thing I did after installing the eddy current kit was buying a noctua fan to replace the loudass mainboard fan
im planning to do 4 tool indx in the beginning
I do have some big concerns with the H2C, but they are fairly universal for everything with an enclosure like it
what are your concerns with the h2c?
mainly with chamber heating, Got PLA in a nozzle sitting off to the side? Have fun with unclogging it every single time
@lapis nova finally done 🙏
💀💀💀
need p2s for this 🙏
It’s multicolor so you definitely need an h2c
yes
should i print the p2s auxiliary fan mod out of nylon?
If you print with hot chamber sure
no harm in trying
i used asa cuz i cba to manually load nylon lol
its cool tho!
but yeah petg is enough as the p2s chamber usually doesnt go above like 50c
Filled abs is more than enough
yeah i used asa. Carbon infilled filaments do look great though
50c chamber temp is actually pretty good considering the room temperature is at about 15c
@lapis nova 😭
Yup
They've tried passing several of these bills and all of them got shut down, so we'll see
Are they also gonna ban sale of metal pipes as one can make firearm out of them?
whoops
the doohickeys on the floor next to it dont bring me hope
Just reorganizing some stuff, was rebar to hold my mega tree (for christmas lights) down
with 3d printed adaptors
fun 3am activities
cuz it told me the extruders got something stuck in it
ended up being the hotend so the whole disassembly was useless lol
@hollow fiber wheres your p2s
x100f....
are u serious
it cheep
this man is going insane
i hope cheap means like 300€
£600 vs 800 average
the question is do you really need an x100
naur ill probably end up gifting it to my friend lol
he can gift you a p2s in exchange
Gay
@naive forge do you happen to know what this cable is called? it broke and i can not find a suitable replacement anywhere
Probably just a 2 pin JST
If you can measure distance between the pins you can get more exact
looks to be 2.54
prolly JST-XH then
i found a replacement cable but its a bit short. Do you know if i can daisy chain a few of them safely?
mmm, should be fairly common to get in tons of sizes
yeah but most of them are just one sided with the other end being plain copper. The only two sided cable i found is too short hence why id daisy chain like two of them
i dont have any crimping tools so have to rely on pre-crimped cables for now
This guide will detail the steps and precautions for installing the External Exhaust Fan Kit on your P2S printer.
hey lookie here
sv08 exhaust fan can blow the fumes right out of the Window here. Might get the P2S exhaust mod as well now
Lmao the fire extinguisher
Need that for the comgrow huh
naur its just generally a good practice to keep a fire extinguisher in any maker room
peyton doesnt care about fumes or fire
I rec having it near the door not under the fire hazards
now its an automatic fire extinguisher tho!
Those do exist
@lapis nova have you used the standard pei sheet on the p2s for nylon? Feels like its borderline impossible to get nylon to stick on it
the whole print came off after the first 5-8 layers and that was with a cleaned and glued plate at 110c
no i used the biqu cryotech glacier
with glue stick
because with that one my nylon benchy was adhering perfectly even without glue at 100c
ye
unfortunately abs adhered so good i accidentally destroyed it trying to get the print off lol
Lmfao
maybe ill pickup a glacier plate anyway cuz aliexpress has a sale running rn
I would
yeah could be handy for the matte petg i ordered from sunlu
matte petg 
looks at my 80c bed nylon 
i dont like the look of petg and matte petg is cheaper than matte pla
wonder how weak matte PETG is compared to a normal PETG, matte PLA for example is significantly weaker
please teach me the ways of printing nylon at 80c
presumably a lot weaker as well but for decorative prints its fine. I just use abs for everything else
I just run 280c nozzle (typically, depends on the exact nylon though)
65c chamber
80-85c bed
Though granted, nothing has been super big of a print, max size probably around 150x120x120mm
im at 290 for the nozzle and 110 for the bed but didnt have any luck. That was with about 48c chamber temp
thats only with the textured pei sheet tho
with my smooth plate even small prints stick incredibly well. So well infact that i managed to damage it while removing a print lol
Consistency seems to be much more important in nylon then say PETG/PLA from my experience
I personally use a darkmoon CFX for nylons
ill probably stick to my jupine smooth plate as it works great. I do need one for the 350 voron tho. Got some recs? Was thinking of getting a biqu glacier
no clue tbh, just personally not a fan of biqu
Never used a product from them but cant really find any other well rated build plate for 350mm
i guess drying nylon at 85c with a regular spool in there as well isnt a good idea
Nice one pal
thats a good excuse to try the biqu morphlex tpu tho
Lmk how it is
Is that the spool it came on? If so fuck companies that send it with spools that don't work at the needed drying temps
its not an issue at 70c which is the temperature im using for tpu. 85c for nylon was too mucht tho
ugh P1S for $399/AMS combo for $549 is very tempting...
would need to sell my current printer probably
can also get a Flashforge Adventurer 5M for like $175
someone talk me out of this
it looks like a solid printer for sub$200
i wouldnt get the 5m. The slicer has been a buggy mess especially on mac and is generally just a poor orca fork. The printer also suffers from frequent nozzle clogging and heat creep. Its not enclosed as well
if you want a cheap and decent corexy get the centauri carbon from elegoo
i'd be using orca slicer anyway
if you just want a reliable printer and not a tinkering project get the p1s
is the Centauri Carbon worth 2x the price of the 5M?
the centauri carbon should cost about 250
289 right now
2x is a bit on the steep end
its definitely worth it. The 5m is pretty unreliable. The best thing about it is the very quick nozzle change
yeah theres opencentauri which brings it to regular klipper
hmmmmm
the regular centauri runs a heavily modified version of klipper
if you care about mainline klipper you can also look at the sovol sv08
350mm open source corexy
for currently 440€ on sale
not interested in spending that much right now
the Centauri Carbon would be about the most i'd spend
yeah you can get the centauri then. A used p1s should cost the same but its a completely closed down ecosystem
theres also the centauri carbon 2 but idk if that one costs more
if you want soemthing fast, open source with good performing hardware theres also the sovol zero
its only 150mm^2 tho
that looks pretty cool but i want something bigger than that
@naive forge wait ur here?!
No
Not really, I never really got super into camera stuff
other campus has the slm280
we had like a shit ton of stratasys
dammm nice
I barely understood that message lol
The 450mc has had a couple y block jams
It's kinda ass
Theres a reason we call it stratashit
They arent all that good anymore
Fr
@hollow fiber did u finally buy p2s
i could stop you by saying the p1s is just 70$ away
last time i checked shipping was 10$
send link
shipping is free according to their policy for p series printers
you can also get 10$ off your first purchase
hmmmmm
the p1s would definitely be the better printer overall
is it worth having a printer that i don't have nearly the same level of control over...
also is now a stupid time to buy a bambu...i do kinda need a second printer now but are there any sales coming up
i dont think there are any upcoming sales
they didnt even have one for chinese new year
oh whoops i was looking at the chart backwards
meaning what
i don't need it airtight, i just want to be able to print ABS/ASA without warping
that there are gaps between the panels so its not conmpletely sealed
yeah all good
chamber temps usually get to about 50c
like 300€ here
depends on the print hours and price difference
i'm not immediately seeing anything local
it would make sense if the used kit includes some accessoires like a revo hotend
there's a P1S + AMS combo for $300 but it's a two hour drive each way
actually probably longer than that
ams 2 pro would be handy for the drying
not sure which ams it is
god i need to sell some printers
ah yeah i am not driving 6 hours for this
if i drive 3h in one direction im in a different country lol
keep in mind tho that with the p1s hotend changes are a pain in the ass
is it really worth $100 more for a P1S over a CC...
if you care about reliability, ease of us and great software/hardware then yes
i do (other than their software), but i also care about saving money
the centauri carbon can be made better but that requires klipper knowledge
this is my current printer...i have more klipper knowledge than i wish to know
ex-ender 3 pro
i mean if youre this much into modifying printers then get the CC
also is that an a4t toolhead
yep
at this point a voron might be the best for you but thats A LOT more expensive
i don't want to build a printer as a second printer
i want something that i have access to, but that mostly just works
tbf this is already like a voron cuz theres not much ender 3 left 
yeah pretty sure the only e3p parts are half of the frame, psu, and bed
yeah if you got that much experience get the CC
that's what i'm leaning towards
has a TZ V6 2.0 in it btw
took me a minute to remember what it was
oh cool thats pretty much the same hotend i use for my sv08
it's great
yeah ive installed it today and the first print went as expected. V6 nozzles are dirt cheap which is great
mhm
though i was also enticed by the flowtech for the ability to do a cold nozzle change
have you tried knockoff CHT nozzles
unfortunately not. I only have a bimetal and tungsten carbide nozzle so far
i like them a lot
where did you buy yours
aliexpress
the king for 3d printing shit lol
might pick one up now. I also have HS petg here as i wanna see where the limits of my hardware are
unfortunately my 5020 blower decided to give up on me today
rip
i cant seem to find any cht nozzles besides the ones from bondtech
they might be gone now
i did not
car repairs coming up... tomorrow 
i got my new plate though
just waiting on proof of ownership to be delivered
alibaba still has some 
i also managed to completely demolish my rear suspension recently lol
ooo show
ah
im legally not allowed to buy the physical one till i get my proof of ownership in the mail
for some stupid reason
mine is on the way out too lmfao
as long as it passes inspection idc
but p2s on hold for now
i really dont need it tbh
like i just dont print stuff
mine got destroyed by our beautiful potholes
same <3
because you don't have p2s smh
it was such a big impact that the upper strut of the shock absorber completely ripped out of the rubber bearing. I can move it freely now lol
fortunately i can change it myself so i only have 170€ of parts to moan about
oh lovely
last time it happened to me it was on a test drive
so i got a whole new rear suspension set for free
noice stuff
maybe it was also just god telling me to use my bike more to dodge the diesel prices of 2,20€
it hit 2.30€ here recently....
last time i filled up it was 1.60€
forgot how expensive gas was over there
it went up so much in the last week
cuz iran and shit
you dont understand how economical im driving rn to make this tank last 😭
I used to fill up with $25 every 1.5-2 weeks, now that's probably $30, but still not terrible
o
i prob wont sell my prusa but i think ill def buy some kind of bambuh for the ams
the prusa is worth more now than it ever will be, and you can get better printers for the same price essentially
ok i guess
depends
get some va powder
for bed adhesion and its good enough
barely matters when its barely sealed chambers leaky asf
It’s decently sealed
(guy who breathes nylon willingly btw)
That was on P1S smh
That deadass has a hole in the top
its like the bare minium amount 💀
insert my talk about how useless small filters are
good stuff. You should buy some insulating material as well if you plan on printing a lot of abs/nylon. The chamber only heats up to 40c passively because there are quite big gaps around the poop shoot
yeah I will probably do that
going to immediately print a few things like 270º hinges, either a lid riser or lid holder, and maybe a new toolhead cover
im looking into making this toolhead cover
not sure if i want the knomi display or an additional fan
is that just a cover or a whole new toolhead?
does it use the original fans or does it need more?
needs additional fans
is it easy to access/do maintenance work on?
this is what i was looking at
but i haven't looked at other options
as far as i know it uses the original mounting points which are a few magnets
i do need to check if the designer accounted for the eddy current sensor as its a purchasable upgrade
what probe does it use stock?
proximity sensor
that should be fine for now
though the cartographer i have on my other printer is nice...
sounds like a problem for later me
and well the eddy sensor is also much faster especially at a build volume of 350mm
yeah no doubt
theres a BTT Eddy kit as well which might work with the CC?
but afaik there werent a lot of complaints with the standard probing method
all good really
eddy current sensors just have limitations to be mindful of
What max nozzle temp
iirc 320 nozzle and 110 bed, but the chamber is pretty useless for ABS or higher, atleast in the stock configuration
320/110

metal benchy 
well
“Metal”
I wouldn't use a btt eddy in enclosed it gets wildly inaccurate at lukewarm temps
yeah but so far its been a massive improvement over the stock proximity sensor on the sv08. And since its coming directly from the manufacturer the software calibration part is already working out of the box.
never used the btt eddy but the sovol one has been working well in my enclosed sv08
Elegoo printers are not the option for that.
Id it the inductive or capacitive
Ppscf is pre easy to print to just chuck in modded airfryer to heat treat post
inductive i believe?
a little, but if you want genuinely decent parts out of it, 50c chamber is the bare minimum, closer to 90c the better
H2S 
Nothing a bit of pir panels wouldn't solve
what I run, though I've been pricing out a high temp printer recently
H2s is only 65 no?
Yeah
H2D higher?
Cope ahhh chambers
Most printers in the H2 price range or less are 55-65c max (safely) unless you start diying
It can, but you get around 70% of the TDS values assuming you don't get warping
Panda breath here I come
ive seen a review of the visionminer 22 idex recently and for an industrial machine it had a lot of unintuitive or just poor design choices
That's such cope
100C chamber is extremely disappointing with it
IDK much more about it beyond that
Dicklazer can do better with a cr10 nuked in a oven
135 I think
Gates EPDM my beloved
panda breath doesnt fit in the p2s unless you dremel away the mounting points for the left auxiliary fan
My goal with a high temp printer is either 180c or 200c chamber
meh
R U in Burgos server
They have a supplier for baffles
it didnt even reach actual 100c and topped out at like 80 when measured lol
rip

No clue who that is, I could care less about DIYing a high temp printer, I don't have enough time to deal with that lol
@hollow fiber for your pussio lungs
How much budget do you have for a ht printer then lmao
I could get one for around $11,000 though I'd have to do other things to get it where I want and have the power for it
Bunch of the 180-200c chamber U also have heat soaking for one day ahhh starting procedure and size of a fucking room ass
the prusa ht90 only gets to 90c chamber temp
oh nah, this would be a dedicated 240V circuit, iirc it was around 20-30 minutes for 180c
Mf ultra2 rigjt
mm yeah 180c in 20 minutes is what was advertised
bros literally drilled a hole through his house to get the fumes out. I dont think he needs an additional filter kit
he would get one
Dam with that even crystallinity aswell
cuz he’s weak
Wait I forgot y'all running 120 not 240
filters are a point of failure
only the finest of air
not for anywhere close to $11,000
I was planning to give it a 240V@20A or maybe 30A if needed
does someone have a good source for learning about crimping, soldering and other electronics related stuff?
uhhh, IDK a single good source TBH, I just kinda learn stuff as I find needs lol
lovely temps for what I need, lots of PEKK and PEEK would be ideal
i have a broken 5020 blower fan that i plan to use as a learning device to crimp jst connectors
Expand your knowledge of quality crimp production with additional information on creating proper crimp connections.
Soldering isn't that bad it's just have flux don't use too much solder use proper temp
Wash Ur hands after leaded solder
Wait I'm stupid
It's the creat it peek series
Creatbot
Yeah, not the worlds best printer, but hard to beat for the price
is that stuff alright or is there a metric for good soldering wire?
don't buy lead free
Ngl no idea I just get 60/40 or 63/37 leaded solder
Wash hands use extraction fan
uh my workplace is quite far away from any window. Is wearing a proper mask an option too?
Get one of em fine extractors should be fine
after a few mishaps i managed to crimp and install my first jst ph
but man these small connectors are annoying. Probably couldnt hold one if i had another cup of coffee lol
yeah after i figured out how the crimper actually works it was quite easy. I did cut the cable too long tho
I fucking hate these connectors
ayy congrats
i do need some magnifying glasses tho cuz doing that shit with 15% vision is pain
sounds like youve got money to spare
buy me a p2s?
get a centauri carbon imo
get a thing
i want plug and play
so like
elegoo cc should be
no setup no messing about with it
theoretically
anything thats not a prusa or a sovol
i know bambu works so me get bambu next
💀
peyton cant relate cuz he isn’t allowed to drive
i have money to spare but i need to save for a timing chain replacement
my cam belt is degrading very quickly too 😭
another £400
the issue for me is that the chain is at the back of the engine where it meets the transmission
which ends up with the need to drop the whole engine
might end up doing the clutch as well if im financially stable enough

prusa headquarters after they once again managed to sell you the bare minimum for the absolute maximum price:
brodie pays for his 3d printers 
yeah unfortunately i dont have someone gifting me printers or massive amounts of makerworld coins lol
im a professional prusa shill 
but prusa will last for forever and you can repair yourself for cheap
that in itself makes it better than bambu for me
i like prusa as well but im not a fan of people just blindly shilling a brand without evaluating each product individually
i currently have a p2s and sovol sv08 and i like both approaches to 3d printing
the p2s as a reliable workhorse and the sv08 as an open source tinkering machine
i havent had great experience with bambu tbh
they tend to require matinence or fail after 1500 hours
iv tried 4 of their machined by this point
now here’s the thing, i can buy like 4 p1s for the price of a prusa
so its totally worth it to get a p1s
but prusa does make sense for alot of heavy users, or when you cant have it fail on you ever
the indx core one is definitely interesting
but ill probably end up upgrading my sv08 with indx cuz the core one will just be too expensive for me
And i like having 350mm^2 build volume
u stoobid
have you unboxed it yet
yes
so far only printed one thing and it was presliced, but it printed quite nice
will try some ABS now
im interested in your abs experience
because in the reviews it suffered from quite a bit of warping as the chamber didnt go past 40c
yeah we'll see
ive also bought some asa gf and asa cf
if you intend on printing a lot of abs you could theoretically retrofit a chamber heater quite easily
i could probably also insulate it better than it is
maybe you dont need to buy any insulation at all and it works fine out of the box
show pic
36° right now and no warping issues so far
no
where it's at is a mess and there are...things...that i probably shouldn't show in a public discord
mmm vfas
mhm
if it doesnt warp you could just tape up some of the gaps and leave the rest as is
i have to say, the webui barely works
it's pretty terrible
going to install OpenCentauri sometime and see if that helps
yeah the elegoo klipper fork isnt good. This goes for the Slicer as well which doesnt really do a lot for you cuz its just a barely modified orca
i'm just using orca
Which brand
sunlu
regular abs
it prints great even though the chamber only gets to 42° or so
printing a vfa test now to clean that up
first nylon print on the sv08
why
reasons
is it your stash of cocaine
no nothing illegal
hmmmmm
cobre has his bondage setup across the whole room it seems
😭
hows the new printer anyway
looking at cheaper stuff if anything since the p2s too much money
needs a little bit of tuning, mostly for speed and vfas, but I'm really impressed with it
very solid so far right out of the box
i wonder how chamber temp would do with an enclosure like i have
as theres not really anywhere for much heat to go
im saving for new whip
another minivan?
2021 mazda 3 turbo
how much
so youre financing it
yes
this might be your most retarded moment of all time no question
guy making less than 10k a year financing a 20k car 
Brotha I ain’t buying it today
Arent you like 16 or something tf you buying a car for
I lowk dont know how old you are im just throwing numbers oit there
17
i graduate next yr and my brother gets this car
oh
yes
si senor
thought u were like 13
im 17
i graduate this year
fire
i told my mom i was looking into going to flight school in a different state and she immediately signed me up for a college visit thats 30 minutes away
like deadass within 10 minutes of me telling her i get a text confirmation
she doesnt want you moving out ?
idk bruh
i want out of this fuckass state
my mom doesnt want me movnig either
my dad said hed gladly send me to europe or some shit
💀
fire
its fine. i let my exhaust fan run for a few minutes with an open window to clear out most of the fumes
but the biqu glacier is really good. Even after 14h of cooling down i had to bend the plate to get that nylon part off
@hazy kettle now that the aliexpress sale is live you could’ve also gotten the qidi q2 for 350$
im kinda tempted to pick one up
close to 300€ for this type of printer is pretty good ngl
teehee
why are they different colors
that's what they are for brits
ours look boring
looks kewl
got some magnetic plates too for fotos and whatnot
time to sand down some nylon🔥
what happens if someone steals the plates tho. Do you get a refund?
they have warranty for stolen plates as its really uncommon
You wear a respirator?
yeah i always do when sanding down prints
My respirator is the side garage door
🔥
Do you do it indoor
yeah but i have a separate room for it. I could use a room in our barn but it gets to lik -15c in the winter
ive also ordered the parts for a stealth press
a what
Ohhh
@hazy kettle managed to rewire the fan i need. Having a ratcheting crimper makes position the small jst ph pieces soo much easier
gonna print this with asa gf and asa cf
gyatt
got the cf for 15€ and the gf for 18€ thats why
yeah a decent crimper makes a huge impact
Me with my mini regular screwdriver

peyton crimps cables with a screwdriver 
small update on that adventure… i wired it wrongly. Need a jst 1.25 instead of 2.0
💀
@naive forge do you have a brand for ppa/pps-cf that you used and can recommend?
Bambulab pps is solid, otherwise I look at companies like 3dxtech for that
the bambu is sold out unfortunately. I have been looking at siraya tech ppa-cf which is currently on sale for 63€
Sirayatech is usually decent
Instead of ppa-cf imma try this
is this the lightweight tpu
no its variable hardness from 65a to 82a
interesting
and is foaming
my 95a feet for the sv08 just dont offer enough grip so i initially planned with 85/90a but then i saw this
hmm
@hazy kettle managed to find a good deal for the bondtech cht
I have a mixed relationship with polymaker, so shall not comment
Kanin had good experience W fiberon
It's just the rest of polymer abs is pretty shit
I mean polymaker is usually fine, but there test data (tds) is useless
20% elongation at break for their abs 💀
the „which brand has the best filament“ saga feels similar to the engine oil debate lol
Tbh it's always the it depends.tm
@grand void
Many options will work fine, but there are actual differences at times
whats your plan with that thing
Ive mostly had success with the brands i used so far. Only Geeetech PETG was absolute hot garbage
my dad works at metal fabrication place
this is his idea
i wanna see the screw for that nut now
@lapis nova this stuff is so incredibly squishy
it’s just a desk item
unless he has a screw model lol
@grand void good progress is being made to run mainline klipper on elegoo cc1
rip
i should mainline the sv08 as well but it runs so well at the moment and i know i would fuck up something lol
looks like peek lol
grey abs
real
abs has been a bitch for me most of the time. While i didnt have any warping or layer adhesion issues with both asa and pa6, abs just kept warping like crazy
i also bought the qidi q2 on sale hehe
haha nice
300€ for a printer with these specs is too good of a deal to pass on
370c would already fall in the range of pekk but its 300€ for 500g
and 120c bed could get tight
why
i have 2 part used petg rolls
one is bambu one is generic
i have a print that needs to use both almost fully
so i set both to generic and used the overflow feature
so it will switch to the next roll when it runs out
I just prolly have a dirty plate that I'm too lazy to clean
You are not printing PEKK on any printer with a price tag of 300
imagine ever using the generic preset option
im too lazy to care
wanna see my macbook holder model i made in 5 mins?
its beautiful
i have very high standards
why so thick
bruh
yeah i know thats why i said the nozzle temp would fall in the range of pekk. Some people have printed pekk with a 65c chamber but its really not worth it since you loose a lot of pekks strengths. And a 120c bed wouldnt really work either.
is that wall mount
under desk mount
hmm i need a wall mount for my macbook but the one ive tried so far has been too wobbly
yeah ill probably do that. Gotta improve my Fusion skills anyway
i think i have a problem
so far the elegoo cc prints better than my custom built printer

cause your custom built is using ender parts
Smh
barely
still an ender
$5
$500
realistically would list for like $250
EXC++++++++
if I sell it do I buy another centauri carbon
p3s
Get a qidi
but matching
h2c
But it’s double the better smh
it's not.
double nozzles double good?
can you print two different things at the same time, different materials etc
yeah
no you can't
not at the same time lol
you can't do two separate prints at the same time
H2D yes u can??
no you can't
no
with two different materials?
both nozzles arent operating simultaneously
bruh
I'm not ever buying another bedslinger
H2D pro has lan
with multiple materials
in the same print yes
but most people also just... dont print that many materials
2 printers is more efficient speed wise than 1 with 2 nozzles
ok
you talking about idex printers?
idk what that means
independent dual extruder
2 heads that move seperately on x-axis
tbh would be a fun project
could nuke a cantilever in a oven
CTE don't matter cuz its not overconstrained
just pray with epdm belts and H class WC steppers lmao
real
a1s kinda stupid good
thats the tale of custom printers. Spend hundreds of hours on improving a working machine just to be beaten by a 300€ ready made machine 
yeppp
my sv08 is also on standby cuz the extruder is fucked lol
could be an excuse to buy an orbiter 2.5
@hazy kettle gonna be interesting what speeds i can get
very cool
yaur i just need to make my extruder actually extrude again lol. And im still waiting for the torque wrench for those nozzles
mr fancy pants over here torquing his nozzles
yeah the „trust me bro its tight enough“ strategy has served me well enough but its definitely not the best way lol. Especially since over tightening them will cause damage. Which isnt a major problem with the 2€ aliexpress nozzles but for the much more expensive chts it definitely is
bro u don’t need to torque it
💔
v6 nozzles should be torqued cuz if theyre too loose filament could leak out. Over tightening them will damage the threads
my P2S could never
it could also never print at 350mm^2
@hazy kettle have you ever tried a speed benchy on your modified ender?
just found out that the record with a modified ender 3 is 1:50
.
1.100.100mm/s^2 acceleration 
Yeah kanin
Have U seen this
It's the dedicated benchy build lmao
whats his max flow lmao
Something stupid it's the lancer stack yk
im interested to see what i can achieve with the bondtech cht. But that has to wait again cuz the 5020 blower has fried itself lol. Gonna just switch to a Dragonburner for better cooling compared to stock
the part cooling with the stock toolhead is quite poor
What toolhead r U running
just the standard sovol head
My condolences
thanks thats why my current plan is to build a dragonburner for it
its the only toolhead i found so far that can use the standard mcu and extruder
Made a lil thing to mount my flash to a light stand.
Heat pressed insert n PETG.
I wonder how well it holds
should hold pretty well unless your light weighs a fuck lot
petg also isnt that stiff so it will flex instead of just snapping off like pla
@hazy kettle qidi completely fucked up some macros here cuz the chamber heater takes like 40min to reach 65c when it automatically turns on with a print. Enable it manually and it ends up taking 15min or so
had to check the printer.cfg cuz someone on reddit had the chamber heater max power turned down by 50% due to a firmware update lol
It's a godox v1 so I'm more concerned about the hotshoe itself NGL 😭
yikes
qidi makes great hardware for a great price but similar to a lot of other chinese printer brands their software is pretty mediocre
well you can just print a new one if it fails
at least it's just running klipper
yeah and they did put some effort into a proper input shaper config. The toolhead does sound like its going to fly to the moon during it tho
lol
i still need to design an eddy mount for the dragonburner head
but on the other hand im also contemplating going mainline on the sv08
go kalico 🙏
could then switch to an ebb36 and maybe octopus board
the standard toolhead mcu uses molex picoblade ports
Y did u put in the heatset backwards 😭
Tbh thats prob them tryna be safer ig or something lmao
There's a front and back?
I just stuck it in lmao
i think that was more of an accident cuz with later firmwares the max power was set to 1 again.
i also desperately need a smooth plate. Pa6 with 35% infill just keeps warping like crazy even at 65c chamber temp
yeah cuz too cold lmao
just get some va powder
pvp/va powder
unless ur pa6 is actually not that blended for low temp
then its kinda gg
its really just the textured pei combined with more infill. Ive printed the same part with 20% at 40c chamber and 100c bed temp without any issues
What brand pa6 😭
tg of 65c wtf lmao
shi lower than mg94
tg of around 70 is pretty common for nylon yeah
what does tg stand for?
glass transition temp
ah ok thanks. When i look up gt the definition that comes up is: „GT refers to the temperature where polymers transition from hard to more flexible“. But 70c seems low there considering the tests i recently saw showed pa6-cf getting more flexible at 180c and started to melt at like 200ish degrees
kind of a bad description as it's super vague, but nylon ideally is printed at or around Tg, it helps crystallization (annealing while printing in a very basic sense)
Same thing you do with materials like PEEK
Yes properties may change at that point, but the goal is for the material to change in a positive way at that point
HDT is the more basic temp most will look at unless they are min-maxing a material. HDT is what you are referring to with 180c
yeah that was just the basic google ai description lol. I was already looking at HDT as i dont need to minmax filament properties for hobbyist usecases
yeah mostly comes down to trying to get the best out of your printer with the materials it can print, or when a specific material is needed for something like chemical resistance
SO far 99% of my prints couldve easily been done with PLA. The Stealth Press and SV08 toolhead are the only projects where something like ABS is actually useful/needed. I do love trying different filaments as a part of the hobby tho hence why my filament storage is filled to the brim lol
yeah TBH, most prints folks do would work with PLA or PETG
ATM I'm trying not to buy any filaments to get rid of some I already have
Me too. I still have some old PLA+/Matte Spools i need to get rid off. Some impulsive purchases like dual color PLA are also rotting away in storage as the dual color effect is really poor
Im really liking the ASA-CF/GF from Eryone so far. Prints look excellent without any calibration and a 1kg spool is only 15€. Thats with shipping from China tho so wait times need to be factored in
I've kinda gotten to a point where if I don't have it I just order something nice from 3dxtech and limit how much I buy
new orca version took some inspiration from bambu slicer lol
Tfw I guess I've been 3dxpilled
How so? But also orca is based on bambu
How about some mg94 smh
Have U tried any of the domestic filament producers
3dxtech 
Yeah but the UI was noticeably different before. Stuff like the Filament list and the Printer Menu look a lot more like Bambu now. Which is definitely not a bad thing as i prefer the Bambu UI
Not too many domestic options in the US that are decent
yeah i love the printer selection section
it looks much better than just a line of text
@naive forge my friend wants me to print a fishing jig mold for plastisol…you have to heat it to like 350°F…what would I print this out of if possible
No clue but I think someone ik was trying to do this, let me check that
The person I was thinking of hasn't done anything with it yet so no clue from me 
They are hoping to test stuff over the next week or 2
Also there goal is fishing lures
I have no idea what filament to do and you’re probably the most knowledgeable person I know for this 💀
Is it the mild has be heated and sustained at 350F
Mold
Idk if it needs sustained 350F
It’s heated to 350f, poured in the mold and is cooled
@toxic fox
why not make it out of silicone
I have a 3d printer so my friend asked me if I could print a mold
3d print a negative mold, cast a mold in silicone, and boom
I don’t know if the silicone would be sturdy enough for plastisol
Abs is great for negative molds cause of vapor smoothIng
Ah yeah good idea
@naive forge how do you perform maintenance on your h2s‘s linear rail? The official Qidi recommendation is to use Machine Oil but the unanimous answer on the interesting seems to be grease
linear rails are typically oil, some grease may work, but most actual recs will be oil
I personally just use bambu oil atm cause I have a bunch on hand
yeah that was my plan too. Do you just apply a small amount in the cavity on the rail?
wipe it off, clean it with IPA, apply oil on both sides and move the printer around a bit, should see a little sheen on the whole rail
@lapis nova ppa-cf
what printer
Qidi Q2
oh fire
the metalish sound of it is cool
first try was on the p2s but i had some layer adhesion issues at 300c so i switched to the q2 and it was fine at 320c
im using the siraya tech ppa as its only 63€ for 1kg
one of my spools popped off and now i'm respooling a tangled mess 😢
is it a refillable spool?
Yeah
I got spare refillable spools too.
After 2 hours of re-winding. Idk if Its worth it 😢
just need to make sure that you dont tangle up the filament somewhere
https://atomform.tech/ @naive forge @hazy kettle

nozzle swapper, I couldn't give a shit about it
😔
it’s 12 nozzles tho
and it’s on a spinny wheel thingy
me no care, nozzle swapping too slow compared to a proper tool changer
Could be decent, but it's a useless printer to me
that much multicolor/material has 0 benefit for what I print
mmm actually it has a heated chamber...
now I am more interested
meh kinda useless
I want hot hotend for pps cf
Return to steel
3dp has once stagnated again
Going much over 65 gets really expensive for most folks
not enough market outside of commercial/industrial
Can we print abs properly for once 😔
Yeah but fr 65c also gets to fangerzone for most users burning em selves
not even burning yourself, most consumer printers start to break at around 65 or much higher than it
No what I mean is even if they did make it that much hotter
It's too much of a liability imo
meh
race to the bottom in 3dp world for some brands have already made them such fire hazards it don't matter about a little extra chamber heat
Lmao true
I mean running on klipper...
No safety relay
klipper in itself isn't a major issue for most, people messing with it when they have 0 knowledge or poorly setup klipper is the issue
Ehhhhh RTOS
Bugs me
but yeah, high temp parts make stuff super expensibe
Yeah
Draining something decent makes it hard to slop mass manufacture
Lmao
reason why we stick to 90c or lower for the most part outside of DIY for under 10k lol
Tbh nowdays it's alot cheaper with cnc services being avaliable
Also fpcb heaters now bring available
Sounds like the Qidi Engineers on the Q1 Pro where the Chamber heater still had running 220v through it even though it was turned off. There wasnt a cover either so some people could get an electric shock when cleaning debris out
https://interestingengineering.com/innovation/mega-lasers-can-cut-steel-drill-tunnels
This reminds me, i used to own a carbon laser. kinda wanna buy another one... 😢
@hazy kettle crimping 6x molex picoblade has cost me 10 years of my life lol
lol
good stuff. Ive ordered a Manta M8P and will use that for mainlining the SV08
@hazy kettle m8p ordered. 60€ seems pretty great for the cb2 kit considering its usually 180€ on biqus website
just need some stepper drivers now
and well a toolhead board
probably gonna be an ebb36 v2 and the btt tmc2209‘s
4x independent z axis motors are cool until you need to pay extra for a board that has enough driver slots and additional drivers
yeah haha
@lapis nova i'm making progress
i keep making super minor fitment tweaks but have to wait 15-20 minutes for each test print (just printing the bottom 8mm) every time
lmao
i'm on V7 now

@lapis nova did you get it printed
shouldn’t have bought bambu
use your second printer
good
i cleaned and purged my nozzle so im trying my p2s again
did you start it on your a1
on my P1S
I’m doing a one layer test and it’s going fine…I think your model is fucky
@hazy kettle It came loose on my P1S lmao
It’s your part
it’s not
your printer can’t handle a simple circle
you can try a brim
im doing a raft
or should i do brim hmmm
raft makes me feel better
have you tried cleaning ur bed
A million times
Ur part is fucked bro
Now I’m printing it this orientation with an inner and outer brim
@hazy kettle ayyyyy
Shit put a seam right on the front
I’m gonna reprint cuz i fucked up the deburring
are you sure you cleaned it correctly thou
you better let it airdry and use just dish detergent unsented
peytons p2s cant even print a basic circle

Skill issue
it’s not
you could've changed it
i put it on the bottom so it's hidden by the foot
i printed like 12 iterations with literally zero issue by the way
this is on you
Have you had layer bulging issues where the switch cover bit starts?
@hazy kettle what bed probe are you using on your custom build?
cartographer 🫶
thats perfect because im really considering getting carto. How’s it performing and how was the setup?
i have nothing but good to say - i don't remember the setup process but that means it wasn't bad at all. It's been really good so far, and obviously fast
yeah after using the sovol eddy for a while i really like that type of probing especially at a bed size of 350mm^2
yeah for sure
