#Mister Pi Users
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
yeah unsure if it's just slow-ass Perfect Dark or worse than original N64
also I have no idea how to access the turbo n64 core since that's not in update_all
I have a Quest 3.... those lenses are sweet but any time I see Blacks I cry
the OLED blacks on the PSVR2 are too nice
The taller your ram is the better it’ll work I hear
You could do the last modified memtest pinned in N64 channel. But this is more for your own purposes now. We cant do more at this time.
If I was you I'd also just email to rma.
Yeah email for rma is probably a good idea
There's only so much these tests can do.(they have revealed great information though).
Just got to wait and see on how Taki responds to it
uh I see an n64 channel but nothing pinned about memtest
Do we think that ram being paired to the mister pi would help? I guess it depends on the test they use I think.
if they only go with a pair for batch2, that rma would be a nightmare...
Why should other ram work, they could not pair it?
I think we should figure out WHY ram needs paired to the fpga board
because that doesn't bode well for changing parts in the future
#test-builds message
I didn't think of it like that
I think, the cap thing is the best we can try for our own. We need one with bad ram to do it.
thats turbo core but wheres the 625 memtest
oh sorry
in n64, but was not pinned ?
it wasn't
#1096015979055697940 message this one?
yesss
If I am successful in getting a bundle in batch 2. I really don't mind helping gathering information, testing whatever I can.
Running them tests and whatnot. As the ram 'should' be paired to the board. See if that makes any difference. (Not just in RE2)
You can get the latest memtest mod core here too:
https://github.com/AlmeidaRW/MemTest_MiSTer/releases/tag/0.0.1
If someone figures out what caps are needed and what needs to be replaced, I might be down to make the trek out to someone I know who could do that kind of soldering and test for science....that said, I'm sure that's someone here that would beat me to it 😅
I'd have to order the caps needed and wait as well
okay yeah I ran that updated memtest, scaled down to 625, and got errors when both chips were active, or when the top chip was active
which I assume means I'm off to RMA town?
seems like unfortunately
Yes
I have to look for the picture with the statement from ricardo. The value caps was mentioned there.
I miss some thing, that would make the search much easier. but no channel on this server seems to have it. Normally i can search a channel only for media, not here...
think I found it:
Thank you
now, my only thing is, I get pretty confused with this stuf...so like, I can search for 100nF, 1uF, etc. but I don't really know which one I'm supposed to be getting
yeah or where they go
was just going to check mouser electronics
I was going to ask how you identify values but i guess its by height?
higher the better
does this mean these are all 10uF on the taki sdram modules?
Misteraddons has a good picture on his side to see the caps
right. The person I know can do it, but I gotta give them a diagram or something...they fixed my Composite/S-Video adapter from Misteraddons way back when when I had to replace some caps to get rid of excess rainbowing. Mike S was nice enough to point out to me exactly what needed to be replaced and confirmed that I was buying the right stuff 😅
If it is near to you, show them the picture from mister addons and the values.
idk there's still a lot that I don't understand fully I guess...like which caps need to be replaced (all of them?)? Do they go in a specific order, etc.
right
but that's hard to match when I'm looking at a picture and then looking at mouser's product listings
like all the ones on the bottom look to be the same size
errr not on ultimate mister's board, I don't think, but on misteraddons they all look the same on the bottom
like, I search for 100nF capacitor on mouser, I get thousands of results
The guy that does it for you, is that an electronic ?
If yes, lets him to source the parts, that work perhaps better
I mean, he's very good at soldering tiny stuff, I just doubt he's gonna be able to look at it and say exactly what's needed...maybe he could but idk
last time I did it, I didn't have him source anything
Ask him better before
it's tough too because they're an hour away from me so I wouldn't want to have to go drop off the board first so they can look and then make a second trip to go pick it up lter if I can help it
guess I could mail it
idk we'll see...I'll reach out lol
Send him pictures, and ask before. Not drive if its not clear.
right yeah
someone gives the cap values they were going to try here, see if that matches up with your pic
Interesting that the change of capacitors is not visible in https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Hardware_MiSTer/blob/master/releases/sdram_xsds_3.0.pdf
This problem is going to end up being pretty widespread
I keep getting more and more of these
more people contacting support would be good
thanks! It's just comparing a picture of that to Taki's the configuration still looks slightly different
especially as they claim to not have any modules with the issues i'm facing
because they already sent them all out to everyone 
i was gonna say lol
that was for the 2.9 ram and I think we are at 3.0 now
ohh yheah
yes it me
oh hi
Why is it so hard for Taki to just publicly say that he is aware of the issue and is working on a resolution?
The laylout is slithly different, but the pins of the chips help. V2.9 to V3.0 is only a small change.
because switch OLEDs abnd batch 2!@!@!!!
this might be a silly question but: is there a specific reason your case covers up the LEDs
eh, I'm sure it's partially just trying to fully understand the issue better so he doesn't have to say "there's an issue, but we aren't 100% sure what it is yet"
I think people are just looking for that line if thats where we're at
anything at this point..
if enough time goes by and nothing gets figured out concretely, then maybe he says "batch 2 seems good and we've confirmed the weirdness is gone, so if you have problems with batch 1, follow steps for replacement", etc.
just a guess
Perhaps its enough to animate for to test the n64 core... Guess the real number is higher as we see now.
Should I contact the support even if the games ate running and just the memtest fails? What is your opinion?
for aesthetic reasons
No, if all runs fine, i would not suggest that.
you just don't think they look good?
i don't think i care about them visually and am trying to convince myself they aren't gonna be relevant informationally lol
gotcha
Maybe I will have to make a full playthrough with RE2 or Conker to ensure that it does not make problems later on... 😉
Perhaps he speculate that no one send it back. I have check costs. In germany dhl wants 12€ to china. Not much less to throw it away.
can previous mister owners reassure me i will not regret being unable to see them lol
i was originally just gonna stick to the free batch 1 case but Todd's are nicer and the price is right
yeah that’s true too
I want to order the case anyway, and I also did not by the USB hub yet, therefore I would have at least shipping costs anyway...
having had a MiSTer for years, I can confidently say I don’t sit around looking at the LEDs….that said, there have been times where the lights are useful for troubleshooting or confirming crashes
sorry, i was full of it. i ordered the case while you were typing 😅
Light are more to see if the thing is powerd on or off. 😁
the main thing i had noticed running it au naturale so far was that the yellow light does seem to go off if it's frozen/etc. but i guess i really can take five seconds to unscrew the top if i'm actually having a problem i need to troubleshoot
yeah i said “confirming crashes” but i kinda worded that badly…if it crashes you’ll always know…it’s just I remember times where the orange light was solid which I believe confirms that it froze trying to read sdram
i thought about designing a usb-c inline switch specifcially for the Taki setup as the available ones are either expensive or poor quality
@gritty herald feels to me like people would want that? I think? I think even the barrel jack y splitters are kind of a crapshoot
I know I had a bad one back in the day
You just want all my moneys now...
atleast most are
I’m never giving up my d0p3fish power switch 
well, unless I ever switch to a Taki MiSTer as my daily driver or something
yeah, i had one of those on my old mister setup
also found the y splitters to be a crapshoot
but I’ll still keep my original MiSTer and the switch
what is the recommended way to do an inline power switch? is the answer just "the options are bad" lol
I feel like the best option is smart outlet
or I’ve used those cheapo plug switches that you just plug into your outlet and then plug your device into that
the problem with the smart outlets is that they have the control in like exactly the wrong place lol
got a bunch of zwave outlets laying around i use for christmas lights
at least I did back when I was using the stock PSU from a de-10
Yes with the barel i used a thing from a cheap led stripe with an handy app to power on and off the mister.
d0p3fish also hd a usb-c version of his inline power switch, but unfortunately his store has been closed for some time
tbh i thought the quality of the connectors used with the dopefish one was a bit lacking but it worked just fine
i don't quite understand what people meant by y-splitters here. what is being split
with the taki board its irrelevant
Barrel connectors
Mine fails 48mhz test, passes 96mhz test and in memtest im around 145. Re2 on n64 plays with no issue. I can get into game and die even 😉
is something like this actually specific to a RaspPi in some way or is it really just "here's a USB power switch cable that supports PD" https://www.canakit.com/canakit-usb-c-pd-piswitch-for-raspberry-pi-5.html
no
That's what I use and just turn it on/off with my phone.
...no it's not Pi specific, or no it's not just a USB power switch cable that supports PD 😅
not pi specific
I would use such a thing only, if the power brick could only handle power outputs that could not destroy the mister.
I just tell alexa to turn it on
i haven't done counts yet, but so far the Light gray and slate gray cases appear to be selling well. The black, surprisingly, seems unpopular
gotta advertise more to the brazilian crowd
lol
i literally did not even consider anything but light gray with purple buttons lol
it's a great color combo
But that B L U E
Todd. If anyone gives you a hard time for putting them on sale early, just say you soft launched in New Zealand first
I’m using an Eve matter smart plug. Works great with HomeKit and Siri.
yeah see the sum total of "smart" devices in my home are a self-heating mug i used bluetooth on once to set the temperature and a cat fountain that texts me if the water gets low, and i want to keep it as close to that as possible
The water fountain is key though. My cat has never been happier
I think it's slightly getting a bit beyond a joke now.
i don't need an equivalent for their food bowls because they will handle that messaging themselves
So the cats “room” is this storage room off of the utility. I never go in there, and I have a very mouthy cat, so I had to spring for the food bowl too
Batch 1 users left in the dark.
Batch 2 users getting paired ram that might not even solve the problem.
I have no idea if he is like “my bowl is empty!” Or “pet me you bastard” because the meows sound the same
I tweeted... not expecting a reply
would it be déclassé to actually tag taki in here to request an update?
I thought he had a discord?
hes not active there either
I'm running that memtest mod, what result am I looking for to RMA/not? I don't have N64 stuff setup but will want to later
Could be a time zone problem as well eg he’s in HK right?
i think at this point we have:
- a good indicator that the problem is widespread though not universal
- a reasonably narrow set of things that are potentially involved in the issue (and thus could be tested by someone with access to a large number of units)
- a fairly strong if not 100% guaranteed set of indicators for identifying the problem that could be used in QA
625 should pass with no errors is a good start to show if you will have N64 errors
btw 625 is between 62 and 63 lol
which is probably all that is really necessary to get them on the track for addressing it
So arrow down to 62 and 63 and let it run there? I'm in auto and it's sort of camped at 145 for a few minutes now
current evidence suggests that passing that is correlated with the N64 core issues
I mean they are addressing it by pairing the rams on batch 2 but that doesn't really help the batch 1 folks.
@late rover yeah almost seems like they’d have to give batch 1 folks a new board+ram
yeah though that only actually addresses the issue if we know what test is being used to disqualify them
the pairing was initially replied to people that were getting max speeds in the 120 range and lower. I know he replied in the N64 thread days ago about pairing in response to these issues but we didn't have the 62.5mhz test then
I know some are waiting on more ram, but is there anyone here who has additional taki tam in addition to what came with the mega pack where they tried more than one taki stick in the same primary slot on the same board?
So I'm in the bad place right lol
yep
tho if hes going to use jotegos 48mhz test which some thing is irrelevant but so far everyone that passes it also passes 625 and has no issues
then maybe it will be ok
I'm more worried about why ram and boards need to be mated
yeah it doesn't really make sense does it
@upbeat gyro yes i suspect the net effect of using the 48mhz test would just be fewer acceptable pairs than is even technically necessary
Would it be bad to just grab another ram (from like MA) for now while I sort out the RMA stuff
I'm ok with that as an end use
if that is more "stringent"
@dreamy canopy by all of our current evidence it will safely guarantee you will not encounter the issue, at least
seems to be a valid option
@dreamy canopy up to you, but a lot of us have used ram from other vendors and it resulted in success
Kk, thanks everyone
my general feeling is that long-term you want to fix this issue at the root, which means fully understanding it and possibly making physical changes to address it, but any mitigation that addresses it for actual units that ship out is plenty for the moment as long as people are getting made whole on their existing purchases
Did Taki use different capacitors on the RAM stick?
Right, well I've played RE2 to the point of reaching the police station, (christ its hard) so.. I guess mien is fine/Im lucky
Yes and both ram are fine
ah interesting
they're all the same, apparently
so it seems that the taki ram doesn’t necessarily have to be paired to a board
No, but this seems pure luck
right
Well they are paired as a known good pair. Made sure that this particular pair works by qa.
but they didn’t sell them that way in the first batch. I don’t think the ram you got was tested with the board you got necessarily
Search linkedin for positions requiring people that dominates first five minutes of RE2
Made sure by methods that are maybe accurate.
taki tested all the ram to make sure it was stable at 150
I believe that was the only batch one test
Gotta say tracking these issues the last few days have brought me more entertainment out of my MiSTer then I ever expected
No they wasn't. It was announced after people started to habe issies with them.
Memtest and re2 for goty
yep
conker left in the dust
Conker is easy for most of us
Only a small subset of us have issues with that one
lol
how dare you
yeah there's basically two separate things which are both necessary to avoid a problem:
- Boards need to be sold with RAM that they were directly tested with
- The testing of said RAM and boards needs to actually cover the issues that people are having
Make no sense
neither does retrogaming but here we are
again by our current evidence, i think any one of "run the Jotego 48mhz and only pass if it stays green," "run the modified memtest and get no errors at 625," and "literally just play RE2 to the police station" would correctly eliminate all defective pairs, though with possibly differing volumes of false positives
would everyone agree with that?
agreed
I wonder if we should just @ taki in here. They were DND before, so I held back. But with the formal announcement of batch 2, I wonder if they have thought at all about how they will handle folks with mismatched batch one boards/ram
people do keep saying that the jotego test should be just ditched though
I think the 48mhz test has had the least success rate so far
So it should be the default lol
I haven’t seen anyone pass the 48 but fail the 625, I had seen 625 pass and 48 fail tho
Maybe not the worst idea
I honestly hope he does. It doesn't even need to be a 'we fixed the error'. Just that they are looking into it. Or some updates, what they suspect could be the issue.
As I said earlier it isn't fair on the batch 1 users and we don't know for certain if paired ram will solve the issue. I'm going to assume it costs Taki to deal with rma's. Especially shipping costs and whatnot. There's going to be a few people making rma's. And if the issue isn't fixed via the paired ram, even more rma's.
Your best bet is to @ him on Twitter or in his discord in the mister channel there
If you have questions or concerns
I think he was taking a vacation here soon, he might be on vacation now
I think @upbeat gyro @‘d him on tweeter
How long should I run this 625 test for?
if you don't see any errors in the first 10-15 min, you're probably fine
Yeah there's 2 people mentioning about the ram/board issue. Fingers crossed
from my first tests(using my old de10-nano) it seems the sdram clock sample point is close to the edge in the n64 core. The core currently uses a 180° shifted clock. In my tests 170° work, 160° does not any more. But in the other direction i'm still searching where it fails. Up to 300° it's still stable, so at least 170-300 and we use 180. Can easily shift it towards the center. But first we should make sure the borders are the same with the taki boards + ram
Is that something we can test for you?
for a quick test you could use the current center point and see if it works for a board/ram where the current core doesn't work
if this doesn't work, the issue is not the clock sampling and i don't need to search further
i'll try it now
Good luck 🤞

i see an error code E00080000 BUT F-Zero X has loaded
(does everyone else understand what "sdram clock sample point" means and i am the only one here nodding blankly)
Nah no clue. Magic person says maybe this thing will work, me test
never has the title screen to resident evil 2 for nintendo 64 looked so beautiful.....
ignore the error code in fzero it's normal for this game(it writes outside the memory)
It's just how Perfect Dark runs on a real console. Download the N64 Turbo core which will have much better performance, in my opinion it's best N64 experience available, and will or should also not have any issues playing RE2 or Conker.
gotcha
yeah PD barely runs on real hardware
now lets see if i can get to the police station
@upbeat gyro This seems interesting.
Man the interlacing in re2 is awful on an lcd. Looks fine on my crt though 😂
oh yeah it's quite bad lol
yeah i lowered the system ram to 4mb lol
Gonna reboot and reload re2 a few times to see if I can make it crash
Ok! Robert has fixed everything! Mods close this channel 🤣
no even Robert can't make more people order Todd's case in black
Ordered two cases from him myself! Thay look gorgeous
please don't share this build widespread, it has all kind of other test stuff from me inside, haha
@faint imp yeah i had a 5 minute turnaround from "hmm maybe" to hitting order lol
proper build will follow once the boundaries are fully tested
Thank you very much for taking the time to make a build.
yeah, legitimately, you rock @stuck tulip
Just got 000040 starting a new game on mine
This is so great @stuck tulip. You didn't have to do anything of this
wow Robert just showing up like Superman (not Superman 64)
hard reboot the mister
Nice timing. I had just finished my popcorn
okay i died before i got to the police station, but that seemed to work fine
Doing an in-core reset fixed it
yeah two of my takeaways from this process have been a) RE2 is harder than I remember and b) I can't believe i played the entire game twice looking like this
Could you explain it in an other way, so that normal people could to try to understand it, please ?
the models in Stadium 2 aren't glitching
Couldn’t get the crash to happen again after a few hard resets and in core reset, must have been cosmic rays
I guess the last game to try would be Conker right?
I was literally booting that
In the garage working on inflatables for my wife. Let me run in and try
hi, I've had bad memtest results and am going to test using this core rn, please hold
yeah, no glitching in pokemon stadium 2
That’s gonna be me soon rip
oh, wouldn't want to take you away from your checks photo Glenrothes and 3 Foot Minions
I'm lucky, my wife thinks that halloween stuff looks horrible. Christmas, on the other hand........
“Sorry dear, the minion inflatable has a hole”
No you don't understand, I need to play resident evil 2. the minions can wait
She’s standing over me waiting for me to convert these to use the power supply box I built her
I just told her a work issue came up
In my office now
lol
More like " sorry dear, I was too busy drinking whiskey and playing RE2 for the 15th time"
yeah i think it might be suspicious if he takes the whiskey now that he said it was a work call
“I LOVE THIS GAME YOU WOULDNT UNDERSTAND” sounds like a sane explanation too
Hahaha
it's ya boi
It seems Taki owes Robert a couple of beers! 🍻
@small lark #1287682359658807317 message
I wonder if that core would help the QMtech people?
idgaf about tests failing
Wasn't there a few QMtech users reporting the same issue
@small lark When you're around, try this build. It's working for all of us so far #1287682359658807317 message
With RE2?
@cinder crane please pin this?
beat me to it
make it to the gun shop

@sick rapids Sorry for the double ping. But I recall you writing that RE2 was crashing on your QMtech. Would you be willing to test a different version of the core Robert has made available?
willuigi will be happy
Pokemon Stadium 2 just threw a E0008000 error, but I assume that's normal as it was just going through the attract screen
@strong falcon come here and see this! 
Had to ping da man haha
Was there any other QMtech users reporting the same issue apart from overkill?
He will feel better on his vacations 🙂
Taki: “no refunds, all sales final (thanks Robert)!”
I'm in re2 now using the shift240 build as well. Using that core, Conker walked up to the pub at what seemed like 4fps (I'm new to mister so I dunno if that's standard, and also booting Conker didn't include "patched" on its loading menu the way RE2 does for me)
https://www.keysight.com/used/us/en/knowledge/glossary/oscilloscopes/what-is-a-sample-point okay so... if i follow correctly... the sample point is how far into a clock cycle it goes before reading the RAM? and so 180 degrees would be halfway, and 300 would be most of the way through, so adjusting the sample point up would be... waiting slightly longer in each clock cycle to read RAM? do I have that about right
Conker runs like garbage on actual hardware - so it's expected
It’s really just that horrible in Conker
Conker walked up to the pub at what seemed like 4fps
can confirm this is also the real hardware performance
The Xbox remaster is marginally better
marginally
Thank you for the ping. It’s pinned.
the N64 80Hz core might legitimately be the single best way to play Conker today lol
xbox emulator
Curious about the sample point in the turbo core?
It's just how lots of these games performed on the real console including plenty of slowdowns. Use the turbo core if you want a more fluid experience with better performance.
“Now that the issue is solved, we can all agree to just use the Turbo core”
Okay I got to re2 gun shop. Screen grew and shrank a few times while walking through streets, and I saw a smidge of glitching.
But it worked
That's due to the memory expansion
So we can all agree that Robert is the best memtest player here?
assuming that does the same thing F-Zero X does
yeah, I assume so
absolutely unheard of 1337 skillz
After spending 30000 hours playing memtest, he is one with the memory
We can finally play RE2 now
finally
Where would I find this turbo core yous peak of
I can’t wait to not play re2 now that it works perfectly
the long shared nightmare is over (maybe)
pinned in the n64 thread
okay i want to hear everyone reporting back about finishing Side A by this time tomorrow
Damn
Sherry Birkin is waiting for you
Same.
#1096015979055697940 message
What is this, book club?
https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/N64_MiSTer check the releases_turbo folder and download the turbo core to your sd card's "_Console" folder.
just want to share the love now that i'm not the only person special enough to be able to play RE2
The only thing that hasn't been confirmed by this core. Is QMtech users who have experienced the same crashes.
I did ping one who said RE2 crashed.
we still love you, Quin. 48mhz test or not
let me try it...
When reading data from sdram, you need to decide when to look at the data. As it is changing with the sdram clock speed, the data will not be stable all the time but only for some time. There is a time when it begins to get stable(170°), a stable time and a time where it gets unstable again(300°).
Previously we sampled right at the border(180°) and on some new boards it will even shift in the unstable area with that.
The testbuild shifts the sample point. Not yet clear if really in the middle of the "eye", but probably enough to fix it already
pretty optimistic it’ll work for them too 🤞
Okay I'd love to be sure on Conker. On default core, is it REALLY supposed to be 6-7fps when he stumbles into pub? As measured by OSD
yes
that's how it is on real hardware
conker was a mess
okay i am impressed that
a) i was actually pretty close in trying to figure this out from googling around and
b) how much better this one paragraph explanation is than literally every source on the internet, including a visual aid
Yes it gets a little better later in the game
I thought it was at least 10 or so
If you want to play conker, grab the xbox version and XEMU
But okay just being sure that I don't need a conker rma lol
(Or a real xbox and mod it)
Yeah, that would be awesome. Robert would have fixed the issues with both clones
2 birds, one stone
and recap it
(turns out that QMtech user who reported the crash, due to older firmware)
So disregard my previous messages
oh interesting
yeah, seems the qmtech hardware ships with the older mister binary
so no “real” qmtech crashes then
ah man this feeling of relief lol
turbo core fixed my game speed issues with RE2
Maybe not. I think if anyone does see a QMtech user posting about the crash. And they have updated everything. Could be worth asking them to use the above core and report back.
yep true
Our community is great. Thank you everyone for being so kind and diligent.
yes i am really impressed at how everyone has engaged on this.
like now I kinda want to just swap sdrams again and try the new core just because (but I probably won’t)
Now if we could figure out the crunchy audio on psx
turn down the global volume in the OSD
I did, I straight up have crackling noises on psx core
someone posted yesterday that reducing it by one....block....fixed the crunched audio
oh ok. let me look. any particular game?
huh ok that’s interesting…that’s the next thing I need to test
Thank you, much better to understand.
Loading it up now
Are you using hdmi audio or something else for audio?
yeah the issue is with the 3.5mm jack
Gotcha, so its not just me
I’ve seen multiple people report it, I haven’t tested yet myself
Not sure if it's related at all..but I was getting a bit of crackle/static when using my iems (via 3.5mm) on my older computer cases front panel audio. But I think that's due to a lower quality/unshielded/older front panel audio connector from the case. (I had to run a usb c to 3.5mm audio adapter and extension cable from the motherboard)
I've used three different audio cables hoping it was my issue. But the analog audio is just rough sounding for me
different speakers, too
it sounds ok to me on my astro a40s plugged in directly
trying to see if I can capture it so you can tell me if it sounds right
I'll show you what mine sounds like filmed off of the tv
I'm guessing I have a lemon
mine definitely doesn't sound like that
does it sound right through HDMI?
I wonder if it's the CHD?
I can't comment on the Mister Pi, but as far as I understand the Mister always had a bad quality analog audio output, which is why most people are using the optical out in combination with a separate DAC.
Is there an optical out on the mister pi board? I'd gladly just do that
Guess I'm shopping for a DAC now!
I think the new analog pro board from misteraddons has a great DAC now?
you'd need a cable like this
I wouldn’t know, I just-ah pushee da buttonz
are there any other games that badly misbehave on n64 besides re2?
Conker, pokemon stadium 2
wait, did any of you try lower clocked cores?
Yeah they didn’t exhibit issues iirc
weird
I believe the new Sorg board does too. I already received it but didn't have the time to install yet, plus I'm waiting for a Mister Addons Armor Shock+ to arrive, which will require me to take the case apart anyways.
Awesome!
yes no issues from cores with lower clocks, or any other cores
nicely explained
Hence why everyone flocked to the N64 thread/channel instead of this one haha.
I reckon it would be me without even trying
the PS1 core is right there :p
Apart from the crashes. One thing I learned is no one here likes Resident Evil 2 on the n64
I’ll give this test build a shot in a second, thanks for the mentions, guys!
Jotego's RAM tester was created because of what? CPS-2 games core?
So would memtest be checking at the same sample point?
memtest is using 180°
I think people should start testing jotegos cores. Beginning with CPS-2! 
CPS2 works fine
it would be a big pain to shift the sample point in memtest, because different sample point is a second clock source and if the clock is configurable at runtime like in memtest, the shifted clock would also need to be. This would need someone REALLY motivated to work on that
Great to know! So playing with 48mhz tester is useless then
seems like!
Pretty sure he released that to debug CPS-2
Eventually I think he fixed his memory controller
Dumb question, could Memtest or a core not test wich Shift is the right for the module with a test pattern? I guess this is like a thing comparable to the spd on pc rams?
I actually really like and enjoy it. Using the turbo core you get amazing performance plus the N64 didn't suffer from the wobbling pixels like the PS1 did.
I played some CPS2 before and it ran fine for me as well
Looks like I got competition then haha.
All good in the clones land now then 😌
yes, you could shift the sample clock at runtime, autotest the sdram for the edge that work and then place the sample point in the middle. But it costs ressources and typically the eye is wide enough that this is not required. Maybe if someone really needs those 167mhz from the sdram 🙂
Dreamcast core from MARS will deffo need it
Cps2 would be like street fighter alpha 2?

Is this something that is implemented in the HDL side or in some other part? My limited verilog experience has taught me that you can do stuff like
always @(posedge clk) begin
...
end
Which allows registers to be updated inside the body of the always every time the clock rises. It seems like you are shifting the point where the clock edge is considered "risen", but that's nothing I've every seen implemented on the HDL side.
yeah
I ran that earlier
As glad I am that it's been fixed. I wonder why it didn't affect every mister pi + Taki ram.
if you have the arcade organiser you can check roms by platform but i'm sure you knew that
I think Robert does VHDL
Then again, I reckon that's a question for another time.
Now it's time for RE2 N64 gaming.
Tank controls only
it has never come this far
Very Hard Difficult Language
i currently implement it in the pll: the sdram controller clock is generated and a second clock for the sdram itself is generated at same speed that is shifted inside the pll generator by some amount of 0..359 degree
so no HDl involved, other than mapping this clock to the pin
please say it’s still running 🤞
Cosmic rays? Mercury in retrograde?
solar flares maybe
This is actually very common in electronics when components are working within their borderline specs
Ahh
Hahaha
Works for some. Not for others
I am playing mario64
It remains functional
Ok, gotta try to buy another Taki on batch #2 😄
Hold the phone. Let me try and get one first 🤣
Actually wait it is broken after all, please dont order 🙏 😈
I ain't even going to attempt to buy the case. Just charge In and buy the mega bundle.
Il even run the turbo core for my pc 😉
Got all my wife’s inflatables done. Now I can get back to the real work
Playing this fucking game
how many minions are on your lawn now
holy butts that's so many more than the "surely this is absurdly high" guess i was about to offer
You should see Christmas. I swear we have $3-4000 of these things in the storage room
But hey I ordered a PS5 pro yesterday and she’s like I want 2 more minions…. They’re like $35 each usually. I can deal with it 😂
that's amazing
.......you know, i'm not sure why i thought the christmas ones wouldn't all be minions. that's on me
My daughter is obsessed with bluey and Frozen and my wife won’t allow a bluey or Olaf inflatable
lmao jeez
if my kid got to make decisions about decorating anything it would just be yoshis as far as the eye can see
do you have a Ko-Fi or something
She kept burning up the cheap 12v1a power supplies with proprietary connectors on them. They’re like $30 to replace on a $35 inflatable
So I built her a power supply
wait. i just realized you're putting out halloween decorations on september 27th. party foul!
not anymore. Don't worry, if you enjoy the core, i'm happy 🙂
But now I’m a roadblock when she gets new ones
Since they need the new waterproof connector on them
It’s also much more populated than it was in those pics lol. It’s a beast now and I just had to buy another power distribution board 😵💫
Yeahhhh there’s a real fucking sad story behind that in our neighborhood. One of our friends/neighbors lost her battle with depression last year on the 25th of September so a lot of us started decorating before that date to try and bring some fun
oh. well that's a bummer but very sweet of all of you to do
Holly shit, and we calculate electric bill for a 24/7 Mister. With that guys you could power mister many years i guess. 😂
fwiw they also have informational purposes to the user
like HDD activity and the status of whether their game save needs to write to the sd card
MiSTions
24/7 mister is probably less than the power brick for a sega genesis vampires in a year
OK, I think I understand. Basically there are multiple clocks in the system. One is the SDRAM clock and there is/are other clocks(s) that are used for the N64 logic. Some of the logic reads the output of SDRAM. I imagine it is best that the clocks used by this logic should not be perfectly synchronized with the SDRAM clock to allow signals driven by SDRAM logic to propogate, thus you phase shift these other clocks slightly. This shift is what you mean by "choosing the sample point," correct? Unfortunately my digital logic knowledge is at undergrad level since I switched to software post graduation. 😛
So 240 degrees is what's working for most people?
Check n64 channel
We don't have enough data
dang I guess I might have to re-pair my MiSTer Pi with it’s beloved Taki Ram to test
Nice, Taki should send a card to Robert to thank him for bailing him out of having to do a bunch of returns
It’s interesting that other ram seems less forgiving on when it’s stable to read.
If it’s supposedly the same spec
Yeah there’s something still off but if it doesn’t impact anything 🤷♂️
okay so! I just went on a bit of a MiSTer Pi testing tear and found another issue with my faulty sdram model: the dual-ram saturn core!
basically when I load my region-free bios, the frame rate crawls to like 0.00001 fps
Dual ram Saturn isn’t really the go forward anymore though right?
unsure if there's an identically simple fix that can be applied to that core since I know it's WiP
Is the dual ram saturn core even still being developed? I think it was decided some time ago that it would only ever need a single ram stick.
@wary turret I am new to MiSTer so I am not the authority, just messing w/ everything that I could never play on Analogue Pocket
perhaps a silly question, but do you have two sdram modules installed?
I put together the "complete" kit yesterday, which includes one 128MB module
You should ask in the Saturn channel, I think kuba still tests dual? Maybe it’s not even working on current
You'll need two ram modules for any dual ram cores to work.
this would be dual ram
what oes QAed means?
Oh haha yeah
Just note that currently there is no single core that actually benefits from using a second ram module, so there is no need for such setup at all, currently.
Need dual ram for dual ram core 😅
@neon summit aha, I misunderstood my kit in that case.
then all's well, ignore the guy w/ the green heart-flower thing by his name lol
It's all good, it definitely takes some time to understand the system and where it's currently at.
Arguably Jaguar but it’s dead in the water
It wouldn’t need it after optimization anyways
No let people run off and buy dual same in case Jaguar comes back
There could be a ram shortage
Buy buy buy
i had to do some damage control when those two goobers told everyone to buy dual ram and then went “haha just kidding” like a couple weeks after
Dual ram, here on out, period. (/S)
I think as a thank you to Robert every impacted Mr pi owner should have to play through RE2
It’s only fair

i am so glad i missed this 😂
best i can do is getting to the police station
Sorry did some say jaguar
sorry its MY turn! =p
So… what do we do now guys?
no seriously I saw someone say jaguar
Play some games 
literally going through my /games directory, making note of empty directories, and then grabbing the sets for them
I’m just testing other cores on the MiSTer Pi now
Heya! Is any MiSTer Pi user able to get Truxton or Zero Wing (arcade) to show up on their CRT? Most games show correctly on my CRT (e.g. RType LEO), but some games just show up blank.
By the way, here's how I'm connected
I need a good neogeo set 🤪
it's a good system
Gonna need a script to change the names tho
As the zip names aren’t real descriptive on the sets
they are fine in mister
Oh. I guess there probably is a database lol
I just do the .neo files instead of the darksoft set
I also wish we had the option to just auto launch whatever is in a zip file. Double clicking makes me mildly annoyed
Same, and also RT4K first batch. Still happy with the Mister Pi despite some issues.
Maybe I should unzip lol
Has Taki said anything?
the rt4k may be my favorite thing I have bought in a while
nah, but robert solved the problem
What was the problem?
#1287682359658807317 message
I realised mine can’t run Stadium 2.
related: #1096015979055697940 message
basically, adjusting how the core reads memory. need more testers though (the n64 channel link)
Is this thread the right place to ask this? Just making sure
The crt thread might be able to help better
it is, I just dunno if anyone can help yet
Ah, thanks y'all 🙂
What is this shift? Like a phase?
It's magic as far as I can tell #1287682359658807317 message
Sorcery.
Do I need this $750 rt4k box? lol
So will this be rolled into a future update?
the rt4k?
Yes.
I can go either way on linus but this is a good vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B5ebucZ69s
Create your build at https://www.buildredux.com/linus
Sign up for an account at https://www.grammarly.com/LTT01. If you want to get access to extra features, get 20% off Grammarly Premium.
Retro Video Games and Consoles are back and bigger than ever but it’s hard to play them on your 4k OLED TVs. The Retrotink 4k might solve that problem, and ...
and you can decide for yourself
The morph4k is also another great option and is 1/3rd the price. For transparency I was given a free unit.
Once you direct video, you cannot indirect video anymore
You will never want a crt again
Look at how good memtest looks!
Disagree! RT4K is great but CRT is life.
Yeaaahhh this is more my speed lol
oh gosh as an RT4K owner I would love some help with MiSTer-friendly profiles
so many of the profiles assume you have OG hardware, not connecting via MiSTer/HDMI
I don’t like the business practices of PixelFX but maybe this isn’t the place.
do you have direct video enabled?
uh
lessee
..now I do, I'm also on an HDR OLED, should I do HDR as option 1, 2, 3, or ignore it?
it will solve 99% of your issues. i'm going to fuck this up but, as I understand it, direct video sends the analog(?) video signal direct from the core out of the hdmi port. it is way out of the hdmi spec, so you need special equipment (a dac(?)) to receive it properly. the rt4k has that built in, and will automatically crop the screen based on the data
let the tink do HDR
ok, if direct video is on, reboot your mister, and then open the profiles and load from file (I think is the menu option)
This is a good summary.
go to CRT emulation, and pick the HDR sony pvm profile (without BFI)
you will have to swap the input back to HDMI
but then you will have a fully bright image (because of HDR) with all the scanlines and CRT goodness
I told my wife an hour ago I was going to my office to play games finally
Here I am having not played a single game
It’s not analog but same difference. Just non standard timings over HDMI.
yeah, it's a weird signal. I read somewhere that you shouldn't unplug your mister's hdmi cord while it's sending direct video because it could mess up the port. so, again, witchcraft
So what’s the next meta? Surely I’m not supposed to play games?
RT4k DV1 profiles
But I’m happy with my CRT profiles.
Damn apparently I’m the only one without a $750 video scaler 😂
i bet your face is so red right now
Get it.
GOTY
oh, @rotund parrot add this to the bottom of your mister.ini:
direct_video=0```
there are some cores that don't support direct video
is there, like, something i should be aware of before potentially purchasing from them
And it’s not a $750 video scaler, it’s a $750 happiness box.
@rotund parrot should have just linked this from the jump https://consolemods.org/wiki/AV:RetroTINK-4K/System_Specific_Settings#MiSTer
The System-Specific Settings page is all about highlighting how you can use the RetroTINK-4K's various features to improve the experience of using your video game systems beyond just plugging them in. This can range from setting 1:1 pixel aspect ratio for Super Game Boy on the SNES, to dovetailing with the Sharpscale Plugin on the PlayStation TV...
When testing the memory, does it slow down after some time or does it start at a lower number?
Shiny edition. Like car companies selling heated seats with a software unlock.
everytime it errors, it drops the clock speed by 1
How long should I run the memtest then? Like an hour or so?
yeah, that should be good
@faint dune okay so I appreciate all of this, but I'm in the NES core right now and I feel like it's a bit off with integer scaling
Mario's eyes are different widths
Is there an easy way to test input lag with my setup? I'm using wireless controllers and stuff, just want to make sure that it's within "reason"
oo, let me check mine
my Mister Pi is at 720p
@rotund parrot your RT4K should say what res it’s detected and what core is running (from the infoframes).
Backup your mister.ini and use this one. its the default with direct video enabled
the mister shouldn't do any scaling at all
the tink should do everything
Yeah not doing DV.
okay grabbing this ini and putting it on SD card right now..
The default ini has direct video disabled afaik. Enable it but disable it for menu and other cores that don’t support dv.
That ini is from the tink discord so its default aside from direct video being enabled (I believe)
Welcome!
there is a folder on your tink's sd where you can put core specific profiles (like if you want different crts for different systems). I believe you just need to put a profile in there and then rename it to the core (like NES)
Okay I'm feeling like this crt filter adds some input latency
Profiles/dv1
Mess around with the gen lock options.
this is my profile of choice for everything atm https://fxtwitter.com/kurohouou/status/1834755699277963736
The Retrotink 4K JVC D-Series Profile has landed! Based off my fully calibrated 27" D200 CRT. https://tinyurl.com/tink4k-crt-emulation - HDR/HDR- BFI/SDR profiles included in zip file, just copy the directories into your Tink4K SD Card directory. Tuned for accuracy! @retrotink2 @MiSTerFPGABot
Kuro does amazing work
Eww, JVC.
Aperture grille or bust.
we should probably get back on topic though. I have already been scolded once this week for going on a tangent :p
Don't understand
The MiSTer devs did a whole bunch of work to get the Tink detecting the MiSTer correctly.
@faint dune will explain (and get in trouble).
gen lock locks the refresh rate to the core. check out that page I linked https://consolemods.org/wiki/AV:RetroTINK-4K/System_Specific_Settings#MiSTer if you set vsync_adjust=2 the tink will spit out frames at whatever rate the core is handing them out. most of the time, this is fine, but if you get a funky core that is spitting on frames at a rate your tv doesn't understand, you'll just get no input. however, it will reduce the input latency to as close to zero as your tv is capable of
The System-Specific Settings page is all about highlighting how you can use the RetroTINK-4K's various features to improve the experience of using your video game systems beyond just plugging them in. This can range from setting 1:1 pixel aspect ratio for Super Game Boy on the SNES, to dovetailing with the Sharpscale Plugin on the PlayStation TV...
the filters shouldn't add any latency. thats one of the benefits of the tink
if you have more questions, you can DM me. 🙂
that way fwwwn can't check my math and I can tell you ANYTHING
Mods! Off topic discussions happening in DMs.
oh shit the cops
@rotund parrot this wiki is pretty much the official manual and has some MiSTer info too. https://consolemods.org/wiki/AV:RetroTINK-4K
The RetroTINK-4K (commonly abbreviated as "TINK-4K" or "RT4K") is an advanced video scaler from RetroTINK LLC. Building on the functionality of the RetroTINK-2X and RetroTINK-5X, the RetroTINK-4K offers high-end video scaling and processing at resolutions up to 4K60. This page serves as both a RetroTINK-4K instruction manual, as well as a How To...
World Soccer for the SMS... My early childhood in a nutshell
Damn I want an RT4K... How does it fare with ps2?
Honestly, I’ve only used it with the mister. I kind of want to build a mame cab with one….but that’s a project for next year
Anyone playing memtest tonight?
I noticed im better at RE2 at 270 vs 200
Are the batch one owners still getting a case?
Who up testing they mem
No
Oh I know, it was a joke 😅
But this is good news
Did anyone with this issue have issues playing JT cores?
Or was it only N64 non Turbo core?
I’ve been following pretty closely the past couple days and haven’t seen anyone report problems with other cores. It seems like the memtest failures always correlated with the N64 problems but didn’t translate to other cores having issues
I don't remember anyone having problems with the turbo core no?
me either. Only the standard non-turbo core
The only other issue I’ve seen pop up was the crackly analog audio on the PSX core, but I have no idea if that’s unique to MiSTer Pi
and obviously not a ram issue
Some people said turning the global volume down a couple notches made it a lot better.
I'm playing with a crappy mono speaker on a consumer crt so I can't tell either way lol.
oh that reminds me that my little CRT is mono as well…I should probably pull out some speakers to test with when I try it
This thing is just barely used and rather new so I like it. Colors are still vibrant.
I know I didn't have any issues
Good Morning.
I don't think there was any mention of other cores not working. Just the N64 one. A lot of people here did end up trying to do tests and gather information. Weird things happened like some mister pi + Taki ram worked fine, mister pi + other vendors ram worked fine. Even suspected issue taki ram with a normal de 10 nano was working fine.
I can't recall if people had problems with the turbo N64 core. It just seemed to be the N64 core with Conker, RE2 and Pokémon stadium 2. But thankfully the core that was posted yesterday fixes that.
The only 'outstanding' issue I have seen is with using the 3.5mm audio out and analog video to play through psx core. Apparently the audio is crackly and loud. One of the suggestions was to lower the sound in the osd I believe.
Only non turbo n64 core showed problems for me.
#test-builds message
New N64 test build 🙂
You might need to adjust the video settings so that the core displays 8:7 instead of 4:3 (basically). I noticed something similar when I first loaded Super Metroid and setting the core to 8:7 sorted it
Oh it looks like you've sorted it anyway 😅
Can someone with PSX crackle take a picture of the top of their IO board?
@tepid lynx When you get a spare few mins. Can you take a picture of the top of your IO board please for Taki? I believe it was you who had the cackling noise via the 3.5mm headphones jack.
(then some other people just had a louder noise, I'll see if I can find any posts that might be relevant to you)
https://www.reddit.com/r/fpgagaming/s/xW6hZHHbvO
That post is in regards to low audio. However someone in the comments someone gets awful audio output via that 3.5mm jack.
Some more information on the crackling. Hopefully that helps. If someone does mention they have crackling il ask if they can take a picture or 2 of the top of the analog board and ping you.
Pretty sure I did also notice this crackling at some point when I was still kinda fumbling around setting things up but I really don't hear anything wrong with the audio now.
Apparently some people fixed the audio crackling by lowering the volume in mister's osd.
Could it be software? Outdated system?
I have also taken this apart a couple times after then.
(as there seems to be 2 quirks in regards to the 3.5mm out. Either the volume is louder or the crackling. But I haven't seen a lot of people talking about the crackling in comparison to the audio being louder)
Maybe I'm just going deaf lol.
I think I'm probably still going to replace this sdram module when the bga ones roll around 😅
Im still poking with plugging my Mister into my Retrotink 5x, the 4k was just.. too expensive 😄
In hindsight, maybe should have just gone for the 4k but wasnte planning on getting a MiSTer
It doesn’t matter much honestly. The games are still going to look the same and if you’re happy with what you currently have then I wouldn’t worry about it.
Yeah, like the 5k looks great on real hardware, honestly no complaints. but it would just be nice to plug everything into it withhout the need for teh digital>analoge conversion step just from a 'well thats messy' and 'adds a lot more cables and shit'
You don’t use HDMI?
For the MiSTer aye, but I've found a few cores etc dont seem to play nice with resolution changes etc so I was playing with feeding it into the tink to see if that helps things along
Or maybe get a better picture on some of the earler cores using that 'tink magic 😄
For the resolution switching it means that TV is having issues handling it. The following ini setting will help with that:
vsync_adjust=0
https://mister-devel.github.io/MkDocs_MiSTer/advanced/ini/#general-video-settings
the only major problem Im having troubel fixing is for some reason the output picture is really dark, like it varies between core but things like.. was playing Vagrent story and it was just Dark like 'I cant even make out half of the screen dark' same for N64 cores
Turning on 'Pure_HDMI' for example in N64 its MUCH darker.. im not.. 100% whats going on with that
Weird, I don’t have that issue at all.
Also first I’ve heard of it. Are you plugging it in via HDMI straight into the TV?
Yeah, Mister direct to TV via HDMi
Yeah that’s new to me, how odd.
Try with the ini setting above to see if it improves it at all
I'll give it a try, mabe try to grab some photos
I did mess with the 'gamma adjust' feature but that only seems to let you turn the Gamma down 😄 not up haha
Only n64 non turbo for me.
Robert posted more here
#1096015979055697940 message
The odd part was the issue didn’t follow the SDRAM module, your ram in a de10 worked fine with the old core and another brand ram worked fine with the old core on your fpga board. We’ll chalk it up to gremlins since Robert seems to have saved the day!
It’s the board not the sdram.
Or at least a combination of the board with the sdram.
So it’s a hardware issue but one that can be resolved fortunately.
A combination of capacitors on the sdram module and the length of the clock trace perhaps?
Yeah possibly. It was out of spec of what the de10-nano did.
As ultimatemister was saying anyway
But that’s ok, it can be accounted for.
Robert is a 🧙
Yes absolutely but also gives yourselves credit too. Y’all did the hard work of identifying the issue and doing thorough testing.
Hopefully Taki can learn from this and avoid the issue in the future batches, do better testing.
But it’s also a miracle and quite an achievement that this was the only issue discovered so far.
The de10-nano is an incredibly complex piece of tech and the MiSTer project is bleeding edge emulation. They did a fantastic job replicating it all.
There was bound to be issues on the first batch, so I think it’s amazing that this was the only issue.
❗ Important:
For those of you who have issues using the N64 core with the MiSTer Pi or other clone boards, please use this test core:
- #test-builds message
(this is currently a test build so we can catch issues before it goes out to everyone as part of update_all)
Ok cool, pinned that same message in #1096015979055697940. Excited that all our new friends can enjoy the MiSTer without any issues thanks to the amazing devs and community here! 🥳
Will do. It only happens with latest build. Lowering the volume did not fix it for me.
Whats the crackling sound issue so I can test?
Does it happen on HDMI or it’s analog only? I have an optical to BT sound adapter connected to my MiSTer
analog only. if you have parasite eve, Jud was having trouble with the intro
they posted a vid, lemme see if I can find it
Optical or not?
Will try it later on! Thanks!
#1287682359658807317 message
Eewww
it wasn’t like that on mine
so they may have a bad board
they are plugged into a TV, though. I was going through headphones
i have optical cables on the way, but they won't get here until tomorrow.
which did you end up ordering?
I think I want one to plug into my astro mix amp
god all these cables are 800 feet long
I just need like 6 inches
i also had that issue haha
there is a small one but it’s twice the cost of the others
Thats how they get ya!
You mean it crackles using a regular audio cable and not with an optical one?
yes the analog one . toslink works flawlessly
Will definitely try with a regular audio cable! Thanks for confirming!
An external DAC made a big difference for me.
That's the one I have and had no issues. Will try with a wired headphone and I will report back!
I use this with an AptX (Low Latency) BT headset: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086CYS884/
Connected to the MiSTer via the toslink cable
Yep! Getting LOTS of audio crackling from a MiSTer Pi on Parasite Eve with a wired Apple EarPod. Definitely not happening with a DE-10 nano + Ironclad Lite setup.
you can try lowering the volume in the options
If its like the crackle I experience, the volume doesn't help at all
Lowered global volume by one bar and it just made the crackles lower 😂
i just went with optical lol
It looks like optical is the recommended way anyways? It looks like analog from that connector is just crappy anyways?
It would be good to have that fixed though as optical requires a converter
Will hold to get a new megapack with that fixed. That's probably something that CANNOT be fixed from the core/framework side
Does it change anything if I remove that small L shaped PCB from the top?
Boxed the Mister Pi again 😦
i dont think so. also the crac,kling is present on the de10 nano
You mean Taki's IO on de10?
All of them
interesting
Is that only with the PSX core?
i am not sure i thin i was getting is with snes
but i switched to a dac so i dont get it anymore
I get no crackling
from the analog output?
yeah, that's the one above hdmi, right? no crackle in the intro at all. I was looking for a double male cable so I could capture it
psx?
Any chances you testing with a wired headphone?
I got crackles with Parasite Eve intro on the PSX core
just used the apple earbuds (I was using astro a40s when I tested yesterday)
hold on, let me see if I can find that damn cable
Please play Parasite Eve intro and let us know
Gotcha! Thanks
The crackling happens on most loud PSX games for me, but PE was the best to take a video of
Probably that sweet sweet intro jam
Has everyone reloaded up the N64 core for the biggest ram stress test?
You need to load Buck Bumble and leave the intro song on loop for 24 hours: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K0DDY299Ly4
Theme from Camelot Argonaut Games' Buck Bumble (N64).
N64 is a thing of the past now! Crackling audio issues is the hot cake now
BICKETY BUCK BUMBLE
i'm vibing to this song but my dogs left the room
I’m playing it on blast in my car for my family
Probably already suggested but, the people with audio issues have tried to drop the volume on the Mister, not a little, but a looooot? Those audio chains where every part have some level of amplification can do that stuff often (and that why I’m obsessed with getting digital put and only amping at the end of the chain)
I didn’t need any of this with my de10+ironclad lite so I think Taki should fix it
I did send an email to the support email, but that was before I found out poor analog audio is a universal problem.
thats evil lol
Already went to half volume and still had the problem
Again, this only happens on the newest build for me. If I go back to an older build it goes away. Itms not a simple "the volume is too high" problem. The behavior of the new core is exposing an issue.
It's also not just "poor audio." The crackles happen in the exact same way every single time.
Wait, this is not happening with an old version of the PSX core?
im on whatever the latest core that update all pulls
Correct. If I go back to the April build, no problem
Did you try with an old and new snes core version?
what does bga means?
Different chips packaging
Ball grid array
right but how tall is it?
Is that true ?
this applies to the io board i assume?
Crazy if true
1st part - wrong values is a cockup. But you don't get high-quality connectors on a cheapest board or it becomes expensive.
2nd part - as we now know the ram isn't failing, it's just slightly different timing on the response.
If the caps are the wrong values, at least it's something that can be fixed in the field and not an inherent design flaw.
so my $30 doesn't buy me a ferrari? wow... crazy...
Replacing smd parts is a bit tedious, but easy enough for anyone with the soldering gear unless they're physically hard to get to
who would've thought...
Yeah, not everyone will want to or are able to solder SMD caps but even a local electronics repairer will be able to replace them.
Any random 'fix your phone' shop should be able to sort it
Yup.
And given how little noise (ho ho) has actually been made about the audio so far, how significant is it? It won't affect anyone using HDMI I bet.
Nope, doesn't affect HDMI or optical output at all.
"it's a bit loud" and "ps is clipping" are all I've seen so far, which I'd think are the same issue?
We have special limited edition collector's editions now with wrong caps.
I don't want to unnecessarily downplay an issue, but it's not really seeming like a big deal
From what I've been able to tell, analogue audio isn't great on any setup, but especially shitty on the Taki IO board. So either way the answer is to get an external DAC.
True dat. The DE10 analogue audio is... well, it's not as bad as a Pi but that's a low bar
Hopefully there will be fix diagrams at some point 👀
Yes, AV Board 9.2 Audio. I better cut the ram thing out, but forgot it.
Thought the add in pcb carry also a dac for audio?
Fastforward to the end if you want to hear the worst of it
Ooh, textured
That's not mis-specced filter components, I reckon
Has Robert weighed in on that being an SDRAM timing thing by any chance?
Sounds very digital rather than analogue to me
It's not volume clipping
Tried on HDMI?
No, I reported this yesterday in the PSX thread when the SDRAM hysteria was still at its peak
I understand it so, that the wrong cabs reduce the frequenz band of the audio out, as if a cd is played in 14 instead of 16 bit qualitiy.
Well, they act as a frequency filter/cutoff, which is slightly like reducing the bit depth
But not closely
May have been lost in the noise (sorry). Check to see if it's on HDMI or digital-audio too; if it is then it's more likely to be a digital issue not an analogue one so more in Robert's domain
Is the sound only in psx so bad ?
It happens to me, too. Its only on analogue
Ok, so that's much more likely to be Taki's problem. It'll need some looking into if no one has yet
I've not reported it in the psx channel myself, just here and to Taki in an email
Have not tested it yet
But my expectation was that sound and picture from 9.2 is better as analog 6.1
Marginally. Only if it has all the right components on though
New SNES core seems fine. I only have PSX issues
Yes
i have mister addons 2.9 ram in mine. ps1 is sounding ok so far.
Ok, than perhaps core relatet and not the caps. I will take a look in the schematics
i can switch ram. is it hdmi or analog that's the issue. tested both, so far its ok.
i can swap back to the taki ram
Its analog
seems ok so far, can compare to my other mister later
Can do
i ask me why the top? There are not many components on the top...
So far had no issues with my Mister Pi regarding ps1
The only real issue I had was with Dualshock 4, it just drops input randomly
Did you try Parasite Eve intro with a wired headphone connected to the analog output?
No
Gonna check it when I am back from work
Technically, no
Usually I am sensitive to audio crackling
Sometimes Rayman 2 and Donald Duck on N64 had a rare audio pop once per session
And these share same graphics engine
Both made by ubisoft
No access?
So no one reported to you that there were supposedly the wrong rated capacitors values as Ricardo is claiming? Just wondering about that part specifically.
His message makes it seem like this is something everyone has, and that is false. There is a very small group of people that can potentially have that issue, and if they do, it's 100% RMA.
Got it. Just wanted to make sure on that. Thanks!
I've noticed some boards have a 5 mm LED for the optical out and some have a 3 mm LED. Just normal component variance?
Is it the port itself, cause you want a top picture ?
Nope, the pictures can help me identify the batch.
i will bring up my other mister and compare the audio between the 2. i have a few setups.
not getting the popping issue so far
Ok, understandable. But is it not fair to play with open cards, so that people can look and check if they affected ?
For example, the two pictures of IO boards shared earlier have 3 mm audio LEDs. Correlation or unrelated?
unrelated
I.e. does that indicate the batch? Ah.
And crackle doesn't seem to be tied to anything I can ID without getting it back in my hands
I can't recreate it
Fwiw mine doesn't have any crackle.
Crackle sounds odd to me, I figured it would just be a volume and maybe muffled sound issue if the caps were wrong.
Which is what one person here reported I can't remember the name of.
Todd entered the matrix
lol
a wild todd appears!
Is that one of the coin op cores that has unresolved memory issues ?
Are there more people having around 13 FPS in the first level (The Dam) of 007 - Goldeneye on the N64 Core? I only have an Mister PI, and thought it's maybe an issue with that 🙂 Or is this issue on the core? I can't find any YT video on it
To be fair, this bombs out with official de10-nano's and all versions of sdram
Ok, so we could only do a selftest if we are also affected?
It's had issues for years
Yes
Sounds correct
Well, not for the entire level
That low of framerate does happen at times in GoldenEye normally though yeah
Especially at certain angles and spots
it’s hard to say without someone doing a side by side comparison