#old-cooling
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Understood.
No alternatives better than water?
I used to hear about Liquid Graphene a lot which was why I mentioned it.
If I recall it's water with a lot of suspended graphene mixed in.
If there was then I'd have it
I would not
Graphene is a solid lattice particle
That's just gonna clump up in the loop
Understood.
Light glycol water and zmt is the meta for easy loop life
But again, 5090, and X3D, you won't see benefits on water
I really believe you will see almost regression
And a loop new costs so much
You'll be paying like $500+
Lol
I just want to try a cpu loop to start...
glycol has a few benefits, namely it lowers the freezing point (useful in cooling systems for like beer taps and such, or in car cooling loops to prevent freezing in the winter) and is also a bit of a corrosion inhibitor. Additionally, it is a bit antimicrobial and an algicide and such due to its toxicity (do not drink)
I am afraid of how long Igetmen343 has been typing.
Thank you!
also brb
Too much however can inversely cause thermal issues
Again, no benefit over an aio imo
yes, because water is better at thermal transfer than glycol
also glycol is a little harder to pump
For little fishtank pumps yeah
what would be a way to improve my cooling capabillity?
I'd like to avoid direct die because iirc it's very risky.
better and more efficient coldplates with sufficent water flow
direct die would be the best for cooling
So a better coldplate the part that touches the cpu and a good pump?
also lowering the liquid temperature will give a larger temperature delta, which should help with thermal transfer a bit
yeah basically
My room is consistently at 64f
at some point you'll be limited by the IHS though and you would need to delid to get any more cooling
I currently use:
- TG Contact Frame
- PTM pad
- LT720 AIO front mounted in my Torrent
That's basically the only way and it's still negligible
Cos the thing is X3D just does not benefit
You can make it colder, and maybe see 1% difference
For fans the AIO is currently using 3 arctic pwm fans and planning on switching to PH-D30 fans.
For a huge investment
in other words the value does not exist
Yes
Yesss
If you were doing any other hardware you'd see more value to this idea
Not for anything you are suggesting
i9 14900ks fr
how bad is intel currently with thermals anyways
are the highest end still cooking without a delid
And here's the irony, D30 is a fair bit worse for normal use but it won't show on the 7950X3D just because again, the CPU is more or less maxed out on a decent aio
Not anymore, not after 0x12B (Save for those who disable limits)
oh
normal use?
Note, I run my fans at max tilt pretty much 24/7
All that's going to do is burn your fans faster
D30's gonna be noisier then
And yeah
Won't do much for cooling tbh
๐
7950X3D the reason for this again
does this apply even on 9000 x3D?
To be honest the main reason I am thinking of getting that is I really want to try overclocking those suckers
Emphasis on "really".
Yes
temp range is set between 30-60c for my fans.
Fans usually hover around 80% during load.
Can someone list the parts needed to set up a custom loop, specifically for water cooling only the GPU?
I plan on getting a Gigabyte Waterforce 6900 XT Xtreme, but I'll be cooling the cpu with an aio
@strange flume
He will drill you.
dont threaten me with a good time
Go for it
I am quite curious what the parts will be myself.
Even though I doubt I will get a large performance uplift zi really want to try my hand at a custom loop for the fun and experience
oh i know nothing about custom loops
I require the drilling
what's the point of that lmao
Keeps my system performance more consistent though as mentioned it's usually around 80%
50% at idle
system performance more consistent
^have you tested this? How would one even test this?
also you're kinda contradicting yourself. Running at full tilt 24/7 is not the same as 80% under load and 50% at idle
sounds an awful lot like a "fan curve" to me
well I am trying to correct myself.
I run a Fan Curve set with a max temp of 60c.
So long story short, when gaming, etc anything that puts a decent load on the system I am usually running at full tilt as I had mentioned above.
However when I am working my chip hovers around 50c so my fans run at around 80% audible but not annoying.
When the system is idle it's around 50% usually.
Lots and lots and lots of playtime. I played for a week with a full tilt and a week with a curve. The tilt was a bit more consistent but caused my fans well to run full speed 24/7 so I had setup a curve that would cause the fans to go full speed when any moderate load of any kind is applied.
50 is still quite high for idle though
Also I think you should set the fan curve temperature sensor to be hotspot temp rather than average core temp
I personally find it to be more accurate
So I can set my max temp alot higher but once in game my fans ramp up, but on idle, my fans can even stop spinning entirely
I have it set to be based on the hottest sensor amongst my entire CPU or GPU.
Ah right you have custom loop
AIO
I want to do a custom loop though
Just need to save up the $$$.
Oh
My current upgrade path:
- 5090 + PSU
- 3D Printer
- Monitor
- Replace my fans
- Ideally make my open 3D Printed case
- Custom Loop
The way I have my curves set up is that the cpu cooler and GPU cooler have their own curves, and the case fans add the % of both cpu and GPU and storage and vrms curves together to determine the case airflow
Ahh mine is a bit different. I have my AIO and bottom intakes to adjust the airflow based on the highest temp shown from my CPU/GPU
And another separate fan over the ram that runs at 80-100% to keep the ram cold
I live in Alaska now so my ambient temp is a cozy 64f
18 celsius
I have an vague image in my head to print a PC case that is geode themed with a vertical airflow setup
3x420mm rads up top with massive intakes on the bottom of the case and crystals all along the sides and bottom
Why not just do an open bench at that point
It's way easier than doing 3x420 in any case
Wall mount it
@knotty sparrow, @weary raft I am have found the Tony Stark Arc Reactor of water blocks lmao.
Still to risky. My cat can jump 7ft.
She will find a way to grab it somehow
It won't jump where it can't land
External radiator
Occasionally you get one of those freak cats that likes to slam itself against the wall but that's rare
... I thought that as well but she tried and kept trying till she found a way to cling onto her target
Thankfully it wasn't a co.puter but a shelf.
Well yeah a shelf looks more like something you can land on
In any case it's far to risky and my landlord would never let me nail something to the wall
I might try it once I have a home in my name though
Because open air setups do look cool
But long story short I picture a setup with 3x420mm rads up top with a ring of fans on the bottom feeding air up to them
Or one giant Intake fan
@knotty sparrow do you have any experience with 3D Printers per chance?
Nope
Rip it's so hard to find folks who have experience. I am trying to find a good 3D Printer with a reasonable print size for large projects within $600
But I do know a massive project like that would need a huge printer that costs at least $500 plus about $300 worth of filament
Yep I'd imagine so.
Bambu makes good printers that don't really require tinkering to use
And is reasonably priced for what you get
Oh you mean the company that's stealing all of your print projects to train AI according to their new ToS
This is what I have been looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DJNLJ9KP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3X5CFOJQKOQZ&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CH4RG161/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3IJ74OD57QMXP&psc=1
Flsun T1 Pro Delta 3D Printer - New FDM 3D Printer, 1000 mm/s high-Speed Printing, Dual-Gear Strong extruder, one-Button Automatic Leveling, 300ยฐC high-Temperature Nozzle, Al Intelligent Monitoring: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
FLASHFORGE Adventurer 5M Pro 3D Printer with 1 Click Auto Printing System, 600mm/s High-Speed, Quick Detachable 280ยฐC Nozzle, Core XY All-Metal Structure, Multi-Functional 220x220x220mm 3D Printer: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Both are about $500
Their printers work offline as well
Not anymore
If it ever gets an internet connection it'll require a firmware update that forces it to always be online
Also I'd recommend asking in like the 3d printing discord or subreddit
They have a louis rossmann special now
Mind sending me a invite?
https://wiki.rossmanngroup.com/index.php?title=Bambu_Lab_Authorization_Control_System
๐ Merchandise: https://store.rossmanngroup.com/memes-dreams.html
๐ต Cheesy mugs & t-shirts: https://bit.ly/rossmannstore
๐ Rossmann chat: https://matrix.to/#/#rossmannrepair:matrix.org
๐ Recording equipment used upstairs:
๐ต HDMI capture: https://amzn.to/4bcXE...
https://wiki.rossmanngroup.com/wiki/Bambu_Lab_Authorization_Control_System
๐ Merchandise: https://store.rossmanngroup.com/memes-dreams.html
๐ต Cheesy mugs & t-shirts: https://bit.ly/rossmannstore
๐ Rossmann chat: https://matrix.to/#/#rossmannrepair:matrix.org
๐ Recording equipment used upstairs:
๐ต HDMI capture: https://amzn.to/4bcXEFL
๐ต Camer...
You can find it on the server discovery feature
Bambu is now hard avoid with their proprietary-ification
They're pulling HP-level shenanigans
And it's sad cuz I was considering to get one of their printers
No more bambu
Not exactly into 3D Printing space so could be wrong, but afaik Sovol is pretty good value for the cheap stuff like <$600 mark
Goat status
Damnnn
Unbeatable value
IIRC Arctic P12 PWM PSTs might be a tad better? But they don't have rgb and are $7ea vs under $5ea
The p12s used to be the go-to rec until thermalright came round
Fair enough
Yeah C12C are hard to beat
These are the guys in my pc atm, theyre so quiet under load i can hear the hell of my gre's coil whine so audibly
And its not even that loud of a whine
C12R btw is the reverse version
If you don't like fan cages
I can't remember the exact name for the c12c reverse one but it's one of the R's
And then w is white if i recall right
Mhm
Its an interesting naming scheme for sure
It's not super complicated imo
I'm not adverse to the way they name it as it's intuitive
Unlike some brands lmao
At this point im tempted to do a power limit on my gre a bit because of them being way quieter than my old fans, not really wanting to do a full undervolt if i dont have to
Undervolting is fairly easy
I just use adrenalin lol
You should do a frame cap if you want less coil whine
Actually thats fair yeah
It's the only way to do it
If not take the card apart and find the bugger (good luck)
No
Straight to the point
UV could maybe help but not garunteed
There's like several hundred different diodes, capacitors, modules
And you need to find the one that vibrates
Literally good luck
I would never be bothered
Nah it often has to do with the output frame rate. Like completely dependent
Undervolting will make the card quieter, not fix whine
Like quieter in the sense of less power needed, less fan
You can get mad whine just loading up an old game at like 400 fps
Lol
The newer gen should be even louder with whine at that
I've heard people say it can help. But yes for really loud whine a frame cap will do much more
The better quality we get, the more it's prevalent
Just cap frames in game to the monitor limit
Or slightly over
Don't use adrenalin to do it cos you'll turn off anti lag
Anti lag is always worth keeping
idk what to use outside of adrenalin really rip
None of that
Alr I gotta go to bed. Long live thermalright ๐ซก
i keep it on already yee
Then wait until you're in game, enable fps limit
Radeon chill in that menu tho is fps cap
But I'd do it in game
Cos radeon chill disables anti lag
should i just enable default tuning?
If you ask me
Undervolting radeon causes too many issues to recommend daily
Issue a power cap if you want less power
Undervolting just makes it faster
And less stable
any severe issues or do you just mean like software bugging out and stuff
AMD is good for daily imo but only if you don't screw around with it
Their binning and qc needs work over there
I've felt that way for some time now
I'll simp an XTX but only if I'm not screwing with OC lmao
People also always get undervolting wrong, cos they infer the Nvidia method from way back in turing
On RDNA it's similar to Ryzen
PPT, EDC, TDC
Very different boosting behaviour as well
Just straight dipping the voltage is like putting curve optimiser on a ryzen cpu
Lol
It won't reduce pbo power limits
It'll just make it clock higher
They work almost exactly the same way behaviour wise
Cos an XTX will pull whatever the hell it wants

Same for the other cards
RDNA 3 was very power limited but the methods and boost behaviour are very different
not bad information to keep in mind lol
when you say quality control what kinda scenarios would that really be specific to
other than like silicon lottery bs
I see it a lot cos people think "Yeah check out my 0.2v undervolt" then they later say "AMD sucks I can't reduce the power" like duh 
Binning is fine, very consistent these days afaik.
But board control, qc, I see lots of doa samples
Like if we want to bash intel, let's look at AMD for a minute, consistently sending doa stuff on the regular
Idk why it happens
Maybe the logistics, the labour costs, idk
But I see a lot more out of the box with issues on AMD
Just in general
Is that enough for me to say don't buy tho? No
Spitting

I've been on and off messing with tech for years and Fitz helped me realise this, it just happens, the odds of DOA product on AMD seems higher in general
Intel only recently joined in on that
Prior tho, really solid
Do different card manufacturers not quality control test what they take in?
I don't think it's manu specific
I'm not sure what the cause is, I just know from my recollection
A lot of people also misdiagnose AMD issues as well
That also feeds into it
I keep thinking about the b12 but never bought it
Actually im curious if theres any chip quality difference between different models by manufacturers lol, like say a powercolor fighter versus a powercolor hellhound
Should I get the b12 for case and tower or just the tower
Like they'll say "This card sucks I'm going nvidia" then they swap over and it's a decent chance it does get fixed (Nvidia is a bit more stable in general)
But sometimes it doesn't
And usually the problem is something else altogether
I love nvidias quality but god do i wish they didnt cost a fortune
If you don't already have decent fans B12's are amazing
Nvidia is literally just apple for graphics cards
Nvidia has a lot of issues themselves
Just not the same scale
Well i mean every company does to some degree
And all that said I still suggest amd, cos a product being DOA doesn't shift my opinion enough in this capacity
You can swap the product
Ez
DOA is covered under warranty right
Fr
Yes ofc
Look if AMD was really bad with QC I'd be gassing them for it but I ain't
It's not so bad I'd care about it imo
You say ofc but you forget how scummy some companys will get lmao
It's just always something I remember
I have some bequiets from a few years ago
They bagged me
Consumer rights are a standard thing. If you aren't buying from a place that honors that then you could've bought anything else with that same issue
Just compare them side by side
Bequiets are decent but pricey
Typically anyway
Not those ring rgb ones
My brother got a p12 5 pack and I took one for my cpu cooler. The one I took is kinda faulty
True, im just saying for scenarios where its difficult for the average consumer to prove they didnt do anything wrong
It makes more noise than the others
This is why you film opening things these days
Maybe I could get a b12 for the cpu cooler but im unsure if i will change towers or not
People are asses
Ive started doing that myself tbh
I always take pics and film
I did it for the monitor recently put up on tech deals
Which tower which cpu
I recorded cutting open the box and everything
It just bothers me the average consumer would have to do that to not get scammed should something happen
Which is why amazon is a beloved place
As much as people hate bezos
They take a trusting approach
I have a black se207xt on a pbo 5600, but i was thinking of getting a white tower and fans because my case is white which is literally pointless yet I keep thinking about it

Just get a white tower then lol
Se 214 xt is like $17 in white
That's pretty good
Not the quietest fan but solid performance
Whoa, what's happened here. Haven't seen this chat quite this active in a while.
Lmao you are the first person other than myself to think this.
Im confident more people have made the connection for sure
Id hope so at least lol
At least they are like Apple in it's prime.
which of the 2 is better? the one on the left that I ordered or the stock wraith prism cooler that came with my R7 5800xt?
Probably the wraith prism at a glance, the heatsink on the left one looks a bit inadequate
the one on the left just looks like a hyper212
though some knockoff or rebadge perhaps
(since that logo isnt coolermaster)
92mm fan makes it seem even smaller
oh that's 92mm? then damn that would be pretty small lmao
OH i didnt expand the image
lmao
so return the SQ-Power cooler?
I plan on getting a dual tower or AIO if the wraith prism doesn't perform well
I wouldn't trust the sq power cooler to be much better, I'd return it if it's not too much of a hassle
You would be fine with a decent dual tower cooler, assuming Germany, something like this if you're not satisfied with the prism
https://www.proshop.de/CPU-Kuehler/ID-Cooling-FROZN-A620-PRO-SE-ARGB-CPU-Luftkuehler-Max-25-dBA/3294874
how is it so cheap?
the sq-power cooler is yet to come
The better question might be why the rest are so expensive lol
It's diminishing returns, you get close to the same performance of a bad aio with a decent dual tower cooler.
so if I get a decent AIO?
It'll depend on the specific cooler too, pump and fan noise and vary between AIOs
And you don't need an aio for a 5800xt
they say it gets pretty hot
Yes, that's why a decent dual tower cooler will be nice to have, but you won't get much out of an aio over a decent dual tower cooler
so this is definitely better than the prism and will cool the 5800xt down nicely even under heavy load?
because I'm afraid the case I got is pretty bad in terms of airflow
What case did you get?
thinking about getting phanteks xt pro
the cooler you sent is like 15โฌ more on amazon
I got it because I didn't need anything flashy but completely forgot about airflow
Well, it's a solid front, there's only so much a cooler can do if it has no access to air in general, can't tell where the front fans would even pull air from lol
Do you need to buy from Amazon? Proshop shipping isn't free but it should be like 5 euro shipping
no but I bought everything on amazon because I had a 500โฌ gift card
The non-rgb one is 40 euros on Amazon if you want to use the gift card
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0D1CGL7D1
But that's getting a bit expensive, it's a $30 cooler in the US lol
It's getting into the price range where an aio can make some sense, but again I wouldn't use this with the case you currently have, I'd rather save the 15 euros and put it towards a better case than buying the aio in the case with a solid front
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BLHHMVPJ
This is a tiny bit too tall iirc
I already used the gift card for the parts
151mm cooler clearance
Either way I'm recommending a better case lol
will it fit in the phanteks xt pro?
184mm CPU cooler clearance in the xt pro
so is the id-cooler dual tower or the thermalright aio better?
cooling performance wise
probably around the same
For the purposes of cooling your 5800xt, the aio would be SLIGHTLY better
is the coolant inside already or do I have to fill it in?
so its not like the fancy ones with clear pipes
closed system basically, right?
maintenance free?
It's closed but no guarantee it's completely maintenance free
also what site do you usually buy parts in europe(germany) that's cheaper than amazon?
You may need to open it in a few years because build-up happens in water whether you want it to or not
It's just a thing that happens and it's impossible to remove out of any water cooler completely
I doubt there's just water in it
can I use car coolant?
No
Car coolant is a higher concentration of glycol, you'll have issues
The pumps are also smaller, they won't pump higher glycol concentration easily
bummer
?
Yep it's just a fact of life when any liquid cooler comes into play
how many years we talking?
I can't answer this but someone else may know
Oh on a good cooler, a couple years minimum
It depends on what the mix is
Direct sunlight, other factors etc
but if its closed and has no fill cap or something, how do I go about servicing it?
If they don't have a fill port, they're often screwed down at the point where it goes onto the cpu
You'd flush and fill there
but when I'll fill it, it will most likely have air bubbles in the system
They always do
It's impossible not to
In fact you want that
Heat expands a system, if the air isn't in there, enough heat will crack the cooler open
It allows expansion/contraction
fluids cant compress but gasses can
I mean you could compress water to like 99% but you would need exceptional pressure
Yes
You are right but it's in the sense it's going to destroy the cooler lmao
That's why a few air bubbles is perfectly fine and intended
No promises it's cheaper but you can try https://www.alphacool.com/de
They're a Germany based company so you should get better shipping rates and less VAT
High End Water Cooling for: OEM Manufacturing - DIY Solutions - Industrial Cooler - Enterprise Solutions - German Development - Own Manufacturing - Since 2003!
Alphacool is often quite cheap over there
Also arctic
Their formula for coolant is 95% osmosis water, 4.2% propylene glycol, 0.8% ph stabiliser
They publish this info which is honestly amazing
Saved me hundreds of dollars by being able to homebrew liquid loop coolant
Yep the liquid freezer II and III especially https://www.arctic.de/
LFIII ARGB for 88 euros is fantastic
I think the thermalright frozen notte will do
The TR is good
They have a long ass warranty if you're worried about opening it
By the time it fails in five years you can likely warranty it and get another one
If that even happens at that
sounds good
I have a really stupid idea that I really want to do.
Has anyone made a External Radiator Chamber that you can just pull out like the DNA chamber from Jurassic Park?
Found on Google from twitter.com
Like 6-8 radiators with fans placed in a circle with a bottom intake and top exhaust fan contained inside a external radiator housing.
that is an interesting radiator shape indeed
I don't have the means to do it anytime soon but this feels like a good way to have as much rad as I want and keep it safely contained away from the PC.
Massive round chamber with radiators mounted to a frame that can be pulled out using soft tubing at the bottom that can be hooked up to the PC.
Had a dream about it last night of such a monstrosity with 8x560mm radiators...
"a good way to have as much rad as i want" good way? not really
a interesting way? yeah i'd say so
also ususally radiators like those are passive lmao
no point in adding a fan
Gotcha, didn't think it could be passive with so few.
Do you think it could work?
I am abnormally excited about such an idea.
Setup a nice display PC with all the housing and next to it the obnoxious freon (not literally) chamber.
it would be abnormally expensive to get a circulat radiator
also you'll have to figure out what loop materials are compatible with brass or whatever the radiator is made of
Oh no not a circular radiator.
is pure copper compatible with brass without anything else
I mean 6-8 radiators vertically lined up to form what looks like a circle.
i think so... maybe it wont be quite as hard
oh
that would absolutely be overkill for a single pc
Lmao I thought you seemed very calm about it.
afaik a single typical radiator for a room would be able to sufficently cool a pc
or at least have enough thermal mass to take forever to saturate
Hence why I recognize this is freaking obnoxious.
also buying one of those radiators new would be quite expensive, and a used one would be full of scale and gunk
On Amazon 480/560mm rads seem to be between $150-180 each.
especially if the heating loop had some open air, rather than being sealed
OH i thought you were talking about the heating radiators
the image you show certainly was a little misleading, also i probably should have read the full message about the dream you had lmao
A modular circular housing.
The idea is to create what I am nicknaming Frae. A tall cylindrical housing with a large bottom intake and top exhaust fan. Oriented around them will be 6-8 radiators vertically setup to create what looks like a circle.
i dont think i've seen anybody try to make a circular cooling thing like that at least
closest thing would be like the natural draft cooling towers that nuclear power plants use lmao , but in terms of pc cooling, i dont think so?
Gotcha.
Do you think this would work?
I recognize that it's going to be expensive, take tinkering, and absolutely overkill for any PC for the next like 40 years.
also it wouldnt be top and bottom intake/exhaust, it would be more like side intake or exhaust, with top (and or bottom) as exhaust/intake
Would it help if I whipped up a very rough mockup of the idea?
yeah
Kay give me like 5m then I will start drawing it.
@weary raft how long will you be up? I could probably whip up some much better mockups with some time. also because I gotta go eat dinner.
ahh let me do a very very quick mockup then and I will make better ones over night
horrid mockup
but to give an idea
tall tower of vertically mounted rads lined up to form a rough circle around a bottom and top intake
Realistically, no point in the top fan
The problem would probably be getting fresh cool air
The rads are just going to be fighting for air (if they intake from the middle) or causing extra pressure and turbulence in the middle (if intaking from the outside)
In our first of 2 Z690 AQUA builds, we modified the AZZA Opus chassis for a more functional layout. Removing the centre radiator bracket allowed us to modify 2 brackets for 2 360mm radiators . Also offsetting the GPU to one side allows for better viewing of the ASRock Z690 AQUA OC. Creating new clear side panels help match the overall aesthetics...
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More or less been done already
this is a pretty nice looking build.
So each rad would need a way to get it's own unaffected air?
Ideally yes
I may have an idea. I am gonna spend some time over the next few weeks mocking up a design
I feel like this would be a very fun way to get into custom loops. A Modular Cryo Chamber of sorts.
It wouldn't necessarily hurt performance but could just be noisy
What if there was a object to split the airflow from the bottom and top intakes?
Something I can slide in that blocks the rads from fighting each other for air.
basically creating 8 separate air tunnels one for each rad.
Maybe. You also run into the fact that something like 6 * 420 * 120 mm^2 of radiators and fans have one hexagon of open air to share between them
Whoops multiplication went to italics
302400 mm^2 vs 37400 (or 74800 if it has feet to keep it off the table)
Granted the gap(s) will be able to flow more air through than the fans and rad
To provide them with air I was imaging a intake on the top and bottom that'd feed into a air chamber of sorts for the rads to use to then force outward using fans on them.
Jfc how much rad do you need
Just one double thick 360mm would do an entire 5090 pc wtf
This is purely an idea and a obnoxious one I admit.
That doesn't justify any sense of the suggestion 
No swears 
Lmao there is nothing sensible about this
nor would I ever recommend this to someone else
Purely for my own amusement that I am quite tempted to do
You could also imagine it as something like 24 fans * 50 CFM ea = 1200 CFM through the 2 gaps. 600CFM through a 0.4sqft gap seems like a lot to me
You'll raise hell for yourself
As joe is beginning to point out
A crap load of fans
A crap load of fittings
Cut tubes
Fluid
Pumps
Your design will be *cable hell
hold up brb 10m
I mean if you wanna spend more than 2 grand on some ridiculous loop like that it's your money man but I would expect nothing short of an insane cost dump
You might even run into something where the fans closer to the gap suck in more of the air and the ones in the middle are fighting a weird semi vacuum. Idk
Recirculation
This whole idea is ridiculous
Lmfao
This is like reading a D&D meme

"Best" way to do it would probably be to have the fans on the outside, intaking, and find commercial fans with crazy static pressure
Yes hence "best" in quotations
I hesitate to say that in a design like that you'll have so little pump head and so much recirculation you'll actually make the cooling worse
I wouldn't be surprised
Limited circulation, ridiculous ambient power, slow water, lack of pointed exhaust flow
It would be worse than a sensible loop lmao
If not for the potential cost but even the performance โ ๏ธ
That'd be due to limited air circulating in the middle? We will call that the air chamber for simplicity sakes
Because of so many things
How powerful is a D5 pump?

I can't tell if you are enjoying the obnoxiousness of this idea or not.
I am because it's funny af
We may as well spit roast the whole loop next and spin it for water wheel effects

Just do a normal loop man
๐ตโ๐ซ
One 60mmx360mm if you're so desperate
It's enough with decent fpi
Overkill in fact
I am dead set on doing a loop at this point.
Been thinking about doing one for what 3 years now?
You stand to gain nothing out of a loop but you're just gonna make an insane monster of a workload for what was no matter what gonna be negligible impact
What the loop will be or how it turns out is not set in stone though
You would've actually lost your own mind
Stopped halfway through and cut your losses
That's an insane amount of work
Amount of work is not a existent concept in my head. For me things come down to if it's doable or not and can I do it.
But I do agree with how obnoxious the idea was.
I will start with a normal style loop as you recommend and look into a external loop for fun sakes at a later date.
I do want to change my case though to something that would be more visually appealing for a loop.
What would be considered decent?
I was earlier looking at their UT60 Copper rads
iirc the higher the fins per inch the more static pressure is needed correct?
Mhm
My plan is to switch entirely over to 140mm fans.
What would be the most fpi you'd say I can do using Phanteks D140?
I have no idea
Supposedly reviews say they perform very close to the T30
Just know that the more rad involved the exponent increases for the cooling power needed
A sensible loop would use genuinely proper fans
Like b14 lcps
P12 maxes
A14x25s
Basically the best high performance fan on a budget
Next to the B14 extreems
No different to high budget really, money is not the objective for loop fans you want function
Mind if I pick your brain about pc cases for a moment?
Like 5 minutes
Aight.
I'm leaving shortly
Are you aware of any pc cases that support a radiator on both the left and right side of the case or two up top. 420mm minimum size. I want to have access to a flat bottom for decoration.
No
Unless you want a server rack I do not know another case
Oh, TT tower series
That's basically it
Cos I'm pretty sure it's discontinued
f
If you like the tower just buy a different one
You only need 2x360 absolute max
The hpe 420 is more than that
hpe?
Ez fit in a number of tower cases
^
I've gotta go bye
oh
๐
How long does a D5 pump last and what do I need to do to make a custom loop perform better than an aio?
Between the choice of the following:
Arctic Silver 5 (about 9 years old)
Thermalright TF4
Thermalright TF7
Arctic MX-6
Which is the best paste?
MX-6
TF7 2nd
Arctic silver that old would turn to dust the moment it sees the outside
Good lord
D5 pump should last a good few years at least
And the main factors for custom loop performing better than an aio is really just a better cold plate, and/or cooler coolant (bigger heatsinks, or a chiller, or cooler ambient)
If at all
Coldplates are really good on aios now
What keeps custom loops at most marginally ahead is the pump head performance
Water cycling fast enough that it doesn't absorb as much heat all at once
What this translates to tho is maybe a few degrees on a well planned out one, but a marginal gain in performance of at most 1%
The days of loops being a game changer have long gone by honestly
True
Honestly I personally would stick with air cooling on most systems unless you're doing like SFF
Agree
Arctic silver 5 is conductive as well, unlike modern paste
The ushering in of the new ultra 285K basically signals the end of any parts that genuinely need a waterloop to work super well
Bar like certain ventus cards
There's really almost nothing left worth looping lol
It's just an aesthetic change, and potentially a noise floor change
But that's the best way to get your 9950X3D up to 6.5GHz
The real hardware worth looping lies in enterprise or hedt
If you want a fast X3D chip you want fast ram
More cpu ghz is marginal lol
And even then
Fast ram is also marginal
So like, marginal upon marginal lol
8800 desync time
Ryzen has always been ram limited af
Idek if most datacenters are worth looping after you calculate long term operational costs and the risk of destroying an entire rack if a block or tube breaks on the top of the rack
It does seem to be a small fraction of datacenters that do it
Run it until dead pump lmao
Often it's like a whole rack, routed through a huge radiator and big pump
Usually with redundant pumps
So few moving parts
Compared to the whirring of 300 tiny fans in a rack I can see why some do it
But yeah leaks are a risk for sure
Also maintenance would probably be terrible
Either your tubing is just attached with no quick disconnects, which is cheaper and less points for failure, but also much harder to swap a component
Or with quick disconnects, which need to be reliable enough, would be much more expensive, more points of failure, but makes swapping failing parts faster
There isn't much winning unless your components are so hot that you need to chill it more than air cooling can ๐ง
Lmao
Typing on mobile with 2 fingers also takes a while 

And ye you're right
In terms of actual benefit tho
Water on something like a xeon w or epyc it is a fair degree better
I think it's much cheaper to supply your technicians with earmuffs or plugs for the majority of applications 

And it's several degrees more stupid in desktop
The era for water is gone
Used to make genuine sense, now, we're in an era where an aio is more than enough
Then, everything changed when the fire nation attacked
The efficiency nation 
Intel comes back with a 385K
500W

The true fire nation
Can't cool them without direct die
Direct die only
Gotta direct die the i3 equivalent (idk what Intel's naming scheme is anymore)
Or did they have to change the name of their cpus because it was that much worse frfr like bulldozer
Before going for the kill
You strike when they're distracted
"Intel ultra? What's tha-ARRGGHHH"

Guys do hard drives really need a 120mm fan? Itโs really loud but im not sure if I should take it out, but then Iโd have only a fan in the rear & two on top & theyโre both exhaust fans. Itโs for a really old pc that uses a fx 4300 chip, mainly used for data storage/old games
The fan is directly in front of the hard drive bays
That fan is cooling more than the HDDs. That air also feeds into the rest of the system.
If you have hdd's pulling a lot of data yeah the fans do help a fair bit
as someone who doesnt have a fan for my 2 hdds
they sit at around 40, and may even get up to the high 40s (which isn't ideal)
max temp rating for hdds is like 60c, but failure rates go up at around 50 afaik
You need to really push them yeah
But go back far enough and hdd's weren't as efficient lol
If the drive bay has closed sides the air might not be cooling the drives much anyways
I found what I want my first ever loop to look like whenever I decide to do one ๐
OOO that's clean
I dig man
Maybe not the rgb cables tho
That GPU PCB small af tho for water
yeah not the cables thats so tacky imo
yeah water has always scared me but that actually looks fairly simple
ive been watching alot of videos on it recently
i see some with like super complex bends and all this
Nah that's just flair man
I'd no doubt struggle since i've never done something like that but I gotta be patient
If you do it properly it's easier than it looks
And avoid hard line
Hard line makes it a nightmare
is that hardline in that post
Ye
hard line? it's "simple" in theory, you just gotta bend some tubes
until you need to bend the tubes perfectly (you will probably not be able to do it on your first try)
why the maintaining?
I used to be so gung ho about water looping
because taking it apart is a pain
also upgrading means you need to redo entire lines
You have to disassemble everything
assuming the water inlet/outlets are different
do you have any pictures of yours onhand?
Which they always are
did you add a drain or did you have to finagle it to drain the loop lmao
I've had a number of revisions but that's most of mine
I have QDC's
Like everywhere
those are sick
QDCs? quick disconnects?
true
Yep
Not cheap no
for a set of good quality ones i mean
Like 10 per
oh
Not pair
even more
Lmao
๐
Yeah cos they're nice af to have man
I spent a LOT on loops
I went through many iterations
I have even older loops too
again just not super familar with this stuff
me using my $3 set of garden hose quick disconnects
(not for a pc, but for garden hose things)
Basically they unscrew, a few drops fall out, the rest stays in
I use paper towels to catch the drops
It's....not perfect but miles easier
lmao
It doesn't get much more extreme than this. With the brand new rather interesting ASRock X670E Taichi Carrara on hand we built the ultimate themed PC to match. And once again we've used the Antec Cannon which could possible be our favorite case of the year so far. Stay tuned for our mod build video on this one as well as some testing.
00:00โ - ...
Showcased at Computex nearly 2 years ago, we finally build in the Thermaltake 350P DistroCase. We decided to go with an all AMD all ASRock Taichi theme for this one but kept the GPU aircooled to suit the theme (and mainly because there are no blocks available for this card) Straying away from RGB we went with a more subtile orange and yellow lig...
this reminds me of that watercooled laptop that just pours out everything from the waterblock when you disconnect it
๐
"Oh no I want to add a M.2 to my PC but my tube is in the way!"
QDC is perfect for cases like that
The taichi Radeon cards are def a favourite of mine
That thing was stupid man LOL
They did a revision that fixed it so it was QDC on both sides
MMMMMM
idk how the initial revision even passed through being just an engineering sample
you'd think they'll have expected people to want to take the laptop out of the loop
If I was offered to trade my sapphire card for a taichi I think I'd actually do it
The sapphire is better but man I LOVE the look
It always grabs me
Maybe I'll get a taichi 9070XT
It won't be in my daily pc's tho
i dont like clear fan blades
it just always reminds me of those cheap ass like $3 rgb fans that are really low quality and stop working after a year and also look like crap as well since it just has 4 leds
^
thats what i never liked about tachi
the middle fan throws me off
that 9070 looks better than previous tho
i think i would have liked this better if it had like a frosted plastic
those look insane
It's the same on the 9070
The RGB is just switched off
so you dont have to deep clean the fan blades as much
needs to be more frosted imo
still just looks better to me
Idk am I weird? I don't really care for RGB but the taichi rgb hit different
That taichi board is crazy
I wanted a carrera with a XTX taichi so bad

Carrara?
Either way I could've done it
I went nitro+ and Apex instead
Doesn't suck but man the aesthetic would've been way better
as an xfx fan they dropped the ball on 90 series
they went crazy for 6000 and then fell off
Thats pretty bad lmaooo
Watch this cooler be semi loud but one of the best bins again for AMD on the cheap end
It happens every gen
XFX is always a safe pick lmao
It's a bit funky but it's gonna be one of the better cards
i sure hope it's just the camera angle but those gaps between the fan and shroud look kinda bad lmao
That thang lowkey ugly

it may have rgb??
Idk should I bother with changing my 4090 back to water?
thats the xfx card right
Ye
It looks a lot better in the render
๐ that colour
If I don't bother I can basically net zero swapping to a 9070XT
XFX's white is solid tho
That's how they market all taichis
i fw the yellow kinda but this just looks bad lmao
Thats way better
Every taichi
Lmao
no way they got the bisexual gpu
this image makes it look even more like those cheap $3 fans lmao
This goes way harder
Bro fr
JUST MAKE IT ORANGE
Wow that looks a lot better than i thought
you may be changing my mind about the tachi with these ngl
stop
So you can make it look good
Yeah the barf really ruins it

Yeah that and the other one is what comes to my mind whenever I think of these
Like BOTH PG TOO
the felix tachi crashout needs to be studied
PG IS WORSE

Asrock makes such good looking crap if you actually choose the right colours
Absolute ass
I can't-
I can't find a normal pick
๐
Vega fe went so dummy in 2018
so clean
Me and Fal know someone with the midnight
Like not even the 50 revision
A rare midnight
The sad thing is those Ref cards are all noisy
Lol
yeah i saw a listing for a 6800 XT midnight on marketplace awhile ago i think
they wanted like 400 or smth iirc i was months ago
So much better, bit cringe still but miles better
The 9000 ref cards look pretty nice
Especially the two fan
Ref?
Reference
yeah I heard they didnt perform that great, shame since nvidia makes banger FEs
Or what Im assuming is the ref
I think the middle one is the one Im talking about
Lol
Lmfao
So gross
This one looks like there's a piece missing from the bottom
Nah bro thats hard

Clean 
Ok tbh @weary raft I see what you see here
Lmao
Those are too transparent
๐
ayo wait
i talked to this guy
on pc partpicker
i asked what vertical mount he was using iirc
cause i was thinking about one for my h6
i think it was that build it looks super familar
Just rgb off 
Yeah idk why they went with them
EZ DIY-FAB or Cooler Master V3
Most of the rest are meh
do regular vetical mounts like those work for waterblocked cards
Ofc
idk if u need something special
2 things
has its tdp leaked?
#1 Any of us can pick another one and not need an adapter
#2 why risk it anyway? Even if it supposedly wouldn't melt
Those cables are annoying to work with
Check every single time for it popping loose

2x8 is fine they don't need 12vhpwr
Depends on the source you look at but most say between 260-300W
Probably also depends on the model
And ANY card can melt the 12VHPWR if it's plugged in badly enough
i love consumer friendly designs!
At least 12V-2x6 is harder to screw up, and all the new stuff uses that standard
Taichi is a hard skip for me if it's that stupid connector
I've never had mine fail
Touch wood
But that doesn't mean I'll openly use it
That cable comes loose so easily
It compounds anxiety man
๐
If they're gonna do that I'll pick another card if I decide to get one
I'll just use my 30 FE adapter and jump the pins so it doesn't know 
Ironically far safer
If you can do it
The extra plug pressure is gone without those stupid sense pins
the 6950xt one, the video lists the block as using the XFX merc ๐
honestly by the time I decide to watercool I wonder if it'd even be worth to waterblock my 6950xt











