#cases-psu-and-cooling
1 messages · Page 60 of 1
@opal night I got the nzxt h510
guess I'll make my inputs and find some links
I prefer this over montech
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811147297
Hoping it works decent with an aio cooler and neutral pressure configuration
don't tell me that
now your making me sad
not trying to make you sad
Remove the front pop off panel so the fans can breathe
yea i was thinking bout that
Seriously, a 1" strip of holes on two edges for air
hello dust
I really hope nzxt manages to improve on their cooling while keeping their nice designs and looks
I mean
The p500A for $100 is the best there is IMO
Screws come organized in a plastic container
Cable management is top tier
I mean, it's fantastic
The reason I bought the h510 is because it's compact
cause i don't have a loot of space in my room for it
no like 2in wider and 2in taller
yea the P400 would be kinda perfect
is the GAMMA II 650W good
Montech?
yea
It's OK, Tier C
Gold doesn't indicate quality, if you didn't know that
Just power efficiency from wall to components
okay im just trying to save some cash here and there
because i had a 1250 w gold but it’s 7 years old and i think it kicked the bucket
if it still work, it still works
Does Antec make it's own PSU's or are they getting them from Great Wall / Seasonic / Sparkle or one of the other OEM's ?
Power supplies can lose as much as 20~25% their rated capacity in the first three to five years of life. They are not meant to last more than 5 years unless you bought a really good brand. Keep in mind older supplies may not have all the EPS12V (12v cpu power for motherboard/cpu area) connectors you need for a newer motherboard.
Better made power supplies may still happily provide 90% or more of their rated capacity 5~6 years down the road, such as mid-tier or higher Seasonic power supplies.
Keep in mind when buying many brands, that they may only be a logo and support package for another OEM's power supply. That's not to say a power supply cannot be improved by a label's desired specified changes over even one of Seasonic's industry-leading designs. So you may get a good power supply from Corsair that was a great reliable long-lasting Seasonic OEM unit, in all but name - but then a few years later when you get the next one it may be a Channel-Well-Tech or Greatwall unit that may or may not be as well built. Always check reviews to be sure, full load ripple is a good indicator of a quality power supply.
That said I will sound like a 'shill' or a 'fanboy', but I'm a Seasonic customer for life now, after they replaced a defective unit with sagging 3.3v line on it, in the last month of a 5 year warranty with a unit that looked and smelled brand new without as much as a scratch on it. RMA took about 10 days including weekends and I'm out in the boonies.
Great wall PSU's aren't bad. Model > brand. Might also want to read up on some of Seasonics PSU's. Model > brand definitely applies to them.
No haggling etc, no complaints, no run-around, no extreme wait for service. I am wholly impressed by both Seasonic and Noctua. They make solid products and back it with the all-too-important (but hope you never need it) service. I wish ASUS service was even close to that good.
With Seasonic, if it ain't a Focus or Core, don't buy it. Especially the S12 series
@opal night Yes, I do understand about that much. There can be some good models even by Sparkle (Sparkle makes everything from a 5$ or free throw-away supply to a very rock-solid server design).
I never had too much trouble with Seasonic supplies but I didn't bother with the S12's either.
Still can't for the life of me remember if Antec currently makes it's own power supplies though.
I look at ripple and voltage sag/creep under full load, and how far the unit will go past full load until ripple or fluctuation gets out of ATX/EPS spec.
can someone send me pcpp wattage calculator pls
I built two identical machines and it showed different results.
I mean, you can use it, just add 10% or more to the outcome to be safe
@quaint tulip I seriously doubt that, because they do list where the numbers are coming from, and that's tdp numbers for each part
But tdp isn't an accurate representation of total power draw
Nope. TDP dosn't factor boost clock wattages, just base
It's good for a sense of the power draw, but it'll be capable of drawing much more
Different versions of GPUs have different PLs
always give yourself some overhead
(pcpp isn't accurate for total system draw, but it can be good for looking at tdp)
ye
Make a list, click on estimated wattage
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/
Usually I look at that, and then look up actual CPU and GPU power draw testing, and then swap those numbers in, and you'll get close to actual power draw
Is aresgame a trustworthy psu brand. Most of their products are cheaper than more known brands but i just want to make sure its good because power supplys are the one thing that if you buy it wrong its going to kill your pc
Mmmm, I wouldn't
There's also the accurate CPU power draw + accurate GPU power draw +100-120w total rest-of-system draw
Ive been using a corsair 600w and lately its been malfunctioning a little so i need a new psu
malfunctioning how?
You sure it's the PSU malfunctioning?
Yeah
Why do you think that?
, theres a 5 star aresgame psu on amazon with 1,230 ratings
The psu will randomly stop supplying power to the pc
PSU is usually
- Working
- Doesn't boot
- Blew up
And it gets extremely hot after like 10 minutes
Are your components overloading it?
Randomly shutting down is 99% chance a problem with the rest of the components
Do all non modular power supplies come with the right pins to support all gpus
Unless you hear a loud pop, that's the PSU protecting itself
No i dont have anything overclocked and my entire pc is only using 558 w
Anbd you have a 600W PSU?
Yeah
Overloaded lol
Do all non modular power supplies come with the right pins to support all gpus
I'm still guessing it's other stuff being unstable or something randomly crashing
Ill check if all the parts are connected right
@amber bay a 400w non-mod unit isn't going to have 3x8 pin to fit an AIB RTX 3090, so no
For now im just doing a hard shutdown on the pc
Not all GPUs
I mean, using 95% of a PSU like that will make them get hot and shut down
o yea
I have a 650 watt and want to buy a 3060
Well
Will that be fine
@opal night depends on the unit
how do i know which pins i need for my gpu
Crappy units yes
Especially if it's a CXM
im getting a 1650
But my psu has been working fine for 2 years
What model?
If it's like cv, CXm, vs, rest of the crappy bois
It only just started acting up yesterday
Also, power supplies lose rated capacity over time
Corsair sf600
@amber bay look it up
ok
Ok
As long as it's not Corsair
It's Corsair
Corsair product pages suck
I mean, if it's 2+ years old, it's probably lost rated capacity so...afe bet your 600W isn't 600W anymore and your system is pulling too much power
It's Corsair lol
Should i go for a 800w?
Witha 3080?
But are you sure the problem is PSU
Yeah
Windows screwing around, driver instability, etc?
I mean, they're at 95% capacity on a 2+ year old PSU that gets hot.
All my drivers are updated and all parts are plugged in right
I dont see any signs of board frying
@opal night usually it'd just give up from otp or something, but it sounds like "soft" shutting down
Yes
Not like protection go pop
Is this one good?
Phanteks amp
Its going to arrive Tuesday
Still worth looking at other bits and see if they're causing the shutting down
So... If I am getting a sfx psu and I'm planning on upgrading to a 5900x and 3080 (probably ti) what power rating do I need?
So it says the problem is probably due to a power overload
It may have fried the psu capacitors
Just to be safe im getting a new one
If you have any overclocked components, remove said overclocks until you get a larger power supply, and avoid running fancy 3d games etc, until it's replaced so you don't kill it and cause it to suicide taking your components along with it. @sharp lintel
If they were fried it wouldn't work
Nothing is overclocked
@quaint tulip efficiency rating wise, efficiency rating doesn't really matter in the face of PSU quality
Running stock 3950x, x570 mobo, 6 sata and 1 nvme drive, 2070 super, no OC's, 6 fans no water cooling on 620w Seasonic PSU and PSU barely even gets warm to the touch. Just for the record.
I remember almost a year ago i was putting in a new mobo and i accidentally pulled and slightly ripped the cable of the psu. That may be one of the causes
@sharp lintel just buy a larger power supply unit bud, get a good brand
The one i ordered looks good its from evga
The GA?
EVGA is alright, not the best, but if you're on a budget they aren't a bad choice. If you have lots of money, find a good Seasonic model or look up power supply reviews that focus on ripple at full load and go from there, less ripple = happy components that live long time.
That's a Tier B PSU, should be fine
I throw those EVGA cheap units in email computers when the power supplies give out after so many years of use, and sometimes you get a dodgy fitting cable etc, and the connectors feel kind of cheap on the lower models, but that's with a lot of brands too. They do work and seem to last alright, for the price I can't throw flak at them.
Again, model > Brand
For the price and the fact that its fully modular makes it a good deal
I was asking about wattage
5900/3080? Shoot for 750w
Its got 5 stars
thats a given when you're in the pc hardware tech industry for 25+ years
I ok, that was what I was looking at but that list said 850 so that had me wondering
I currently have a 750 bronze
As long as it's a quality unit, it'll be fine
SFX is going to be hard to do though because of form factor
SilverStone Technology 800W SFX-L, 80 Plus Titanium 100% Modular Power Supply with Japanese Capacitors SX800-LTI-USA, SST-SX800-LTI-USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N6FB8NC/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_hM77FbPCR7E5T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How much watts does the 3060 use?
600 is recommended
That's the most recent one I had found. But some of the older reviews weren't great
Actually, that SX-LTi is a good one
Tier B at least
This list is a good handy quick chart
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.6 Last Update: 29-11-2020 Gray - EoL / obsolete. Generally not recommended for purchase since its going to be pre-owned, refurbished or old stock. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (...
Just do a search
I was having a hard time finding one. Especially sfxl
green units are sfx/sfx-l
Yeah, high wattage SFX are tough to find and spendy
Definitely. I currently am looking at the lian li 011dx mw but that may change by the time I do the build
I mean, those are some high powered components in a small case, make sure you have plenty of airflow
My rig doesn't really "need" an upgrade. So most of my plans are future. And I am planning on a minimum of 5 120mm fans
Probably will end up doing a layout similar to this, fan wise
is the corsair cv550 a good power supply for a low-mid end gaming pc? theres been mixed reviews.
and that doesn't apply to CXm, avoid CXm too
could you recommend me a good power supply? i dont really wanna get a bad one and screw everything up
keep in mind im canadian so
Any A and B tier PSUs on the ltt tier list
it's pinned in #building-and-recc-chat
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.6 Last Update: 29-11-2020 Gray - EoL / obsolete. Generally not recommended for purchase since its going to be pre-owned, refurbished or old stock. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (...
The h 510 elite
I know but this is MUCH more appropriate lol
not here yet
heh
I mean, ig discussions here might make more use of this
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eL0893Ramlwk6E3s3uSvH1_juom7SMG5SCNzP2Uov8w/edit?usp=sharing
this is their sources of the reviews for the tier list
@opal night the h510 elite has 2 240 mm fans at the front
it has what
Fans do no good if the air can't get to them
But the glass in front of it
Can be removed
140mm
makes more sense
Ok
elite is a worse offender than the normal h510
That's what I told the last guy.
Sorry my b
because it makes the fans suck on glass
Ok
If you get an NZXT you gotta remove the front panel
man this is a lil overwhelming 8/
Thx you guys are so helpful
@elfin trout thanks for the 411 on the power supplies via the spread sheet, that's useful x10.
Spreadsheet info is always useful to have when I need it, because I can save it and easily get it later at a moments notice, appreciated.
man it is hard to find a reasonably priced quality psu in canada omg
It's hard to find a reasonable priced anything anywhere lol
i may just have to go over budget 😐
What is your budget?
What are your components looking like rn?
cad market does look a bit sad
Most markets do.. the gpu I have is showing $1500 on pcpp and I paid $800 I think..
I mean worse than US
i got my gpu, ssd, hard drive, case, mobo, and ram so far. i need psu and cpu
i got a 1660 super and it was pretty lucky, it came in stock for less than a day and was a reasonable price.
do u think i should go with that power supply? it’d be a little overboard but would it be worth it?
it's only overkill util you upgrade
hm alright i think i will :)) thanks a lot guys i really appreciate it
I've only built using full tower cases, and have been instructed by my roommate/wife that I need to build in a smaller case with my next build. Are there mid tower cases that will let me put an aio cooler in front and still have room for an xfx 6800xt? I was looking at this one and the nzxt 510/710. https://www.newegg.com/black-lian-li-lancool-ii-atx-desktop/p/2AM-000Z-00053?Item=2AM-000Z-00053&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https%3A%2F%2Fpcpartpicker.com%2F&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-vgL.3N19QgX7D4H.a1TdVw
Td500 mesh, P500a, Coolermaster H500 all options
Do I need to be careful about which ram I get with regards to much the radiator on top? I had a friend who had a corsair case and he couldn't mount his radiator and fans on top because it interfered with his ram. Maybe that's just a corsair thing?
depends on case, RAM, and AIO size. Usually 280mm AIOs will have a hard time fitting in, but 240m/360mm will be fine
Ok. Looking at getting an artic liquid freezer II. I guess I should be able to find a build using whatever case I decide and that cooler and see what type of ram they are using.
freezer II comes in many sizes. If you're getting 280mm then you should worry about it. If not then 99% going to be fine
I don't think i'd get the 280. Last question. If I mounted it to the front, would I keep the case fans there too or move those?
I'd keep the arctic fans with the rad. You generally want the better quality fans to be with the rad as the rad makes it harder to move air. I'll take a good guess that the case fans will be worse then the arctic ones
So take the case fans out and just have the rad fans on the front if that's what I do?
yes
there’s a noice coming from my PSU like a clacking sound. I sent it back for “repairs” but it’s still doing it so im thinking maybe another part if causing the sound such as the motherboard? Is there anyway to test this without using another system?
Or could it possible be the power supply isn’t able to handle the stress? Like just the type and series of PSU doesn’t do well with gaming idk?
Yes, no, no, no
@grim violet clacking sounds like something getting caught in a fan to me, like if a wire is in the way
I looked inside and even sprayed come canned air to maybe get anything possible caught away but it continues
Usually the only real sources of weird noises in a PC is one of 3 things: Coil whine, Something caught in a fan, or Hard drive clicks of death
I thought it was the hard drive at first so I removed it from the system since it’s only all my games and I work and it continued the sound so ik it’s something with PSU
But I can’t find anything in the fan so idk if it’s again the PSU model just not compatible somehow or the power supply doesn’t have brought wattage for the build and that’s the reason of the sound?
Think about what goes on in a PSU, nothing in there can really clack
A PSU basically doesn't have moving parts other than the fan
Smth could've been stuck in the psu fan tho
If it’s stuck would it be visible easily?
Stuck as in the fan might be hitting something inside
Cause the sound is on and off so if it was something stuck it would have to be wiggling in and out of the way of the blades
And you can't really open it up and tell
(Stuck inside, you can't fix)
Oh
the thing is I supposedly got a different PSU when I sent it back to Corsair for the sound
Don't be cxm
?
If what you're hearing isn't coil whine, CXm gonna give it to ya
Your saying cxm has bad coil whine?
But it never used to do that. That’s what’s confusing
And it’s doing it more and more for longer of periods of time continuously
@onyx spire Phanteks amp
@tacit wren hm, might need to look into it, but wouldn't that be physically tied to the power switch?
No
No psu is going to use a solid state relay for that
It'll be a mechanical contactor
I still have a lot more to learn about PSUs so yea
I mean, it's wired up right behind the power switch sure
Would I be better off just buying this as a replacement? https://www.newegg.com/phanteks-revolt-pro-ph-p850gc-850w/p/N82E16817987006?&quicklink=true
I did that a couple weeks ago
The replacement is doing the same thing
That’s my issue
Thus why I asked is it possible it’s the type of PSU or series. Or the motherboard in some way
I did it’s coming from the bottom back of the case.
Lots of things could be possible
Like where
Psu fan (You could prob tell if the noise is fan hitting something or not from up close)
Psu inside
Or above it
Idk it’s hard to tell but it sounds like PSU either inside or fan
A contactor can click/clack, a random click sound can also be the sound of protections tripping
so I bought a td500 non mesh while i built my computer, i couldnt get the mesh and they said they wouldnt know how long it would take for the mesh to restock hence why i didnt get it.
Using the non mesh td500 front panel i see my GPU temps are 10 degress higher in celsius then with the front panel off.
does anyone know if I can just buy the front mesh panel (black) by itself?
emailed them twice with no response from the past week
" As customer satisfaction is a core value of Cooler Master, we would like to notify our customers that our current CRM system is having issues with the ticketing system at this point in time. Once the CRM vendor has verified that the issue has been resolved, we will respond to each and every ticket ASAP. We thank you for your continued patience at this time, and apologize for any inconvenience this issue may cause."
Might just have to be a bit patient with them
Yeah sorry
I can't find a part number for that panel anywhere
ON their site, the manuals, nothing
i saw one in particular but it seemed to use England's currency
Probably from the UK then
yeah
Yep, that's EU
@fallow cairn protections tripping would be very noticable since it'll stop working yaknow
can some one find me a good case with at least 3-4 rgb fans around $60
Montech at that price point. Everything else will be glass front with crap cooling
Ok, so I have a question. I am planning to get a case for my first build but I want to know the pros/cons of cases so that I buy the right one. What should I watch out for when buying a case?
That your GPU will physically fit. The front is some kind of open mesh design for good airflow. There are places to route/hide your cables. If you want water cooling, that your radiators will fit where you want them.
Ok thanks!
Pls don't buy NZXT or a case with a glass front
They cool very poorly due to very little airflow no matter the size of the fans in front
I was not planning
Off to a good start!
Guy was in here earlier
10C difference in temps between glass front on and off
at idle
wow xD
Yup
Also, if you get one with filters
You really gotta clean those once a month. A little dust gets on them and really kills the air movement
I have one on my current case and I have to do that
It sucks cleaning but it is worth it
yeah
Taking off the front panel of my case is kinda a pain so I sometimes let the dust build up more than I should
you guys clean ur filters? 
in my server? no. in my rig? absolutely.
Any thoughts on fractal mesh s.2 or a phanteks p500a? Local microcenter has the white s.2 for 70 off.
the cable covers on that tho...

i love what i saw from the s2 tho
basically just a bigger better mesh C
@exotic fiber Granted this response is 6 hours later, but it's always WAY better to have to clean dust filters, than it is to have to clean the entire guts of the PC constantly. Plus, your components live longer healthier lives the cleaner they're kept - also you are less likely to damage the internal components with static electricity since you'll need to clean the inside of the case much less often, if ever (even discharges so small you cannot see or feel).
I swear by Fractal cases (also a fan of the large but wonderful Corsair 900D), I have a Define XL (some version of it) and an older Fractal Arc XL that had shipping damage (corner crunched in which I fixed). I love both of these cases, and the Define is absolutely the best case I've ever worked with, more convenient than even some Lian-Li offerings I've used.
+points for not having to open up the power supply to clean it due to dust filters keeping dust out, forgetting to drain the juice out of it only to get rudely re-awakened by the shocking experience of touching the insides of a live or non-discharged power supply (at 115v you could have a bad day, 230v will certainly mess up your hair do and could possibly be fatal for some at either voltage).
Rule: Never, ever, ever open that power supply up unless you know the dangers of working around house current, are experienced, and have discharged it after disconnecting it from the wall.
DUST kills more power supplies than overloading does. I've seen a lot of this, especially before 'right to repair' in the USA allowed us to break the 'warranty void if seal broken' stickers without voiding said warranty just to CLEAN the thing.
BIG RULE: Only buy a case with dust filters, your PC will live longer, and you just might too.
When replacing my psu, do I have to unplug the cables pluged into the mobo from the mobo end as well as the psu end, or just the psu end?
just psu but id swap the cables unless theyre the same psu
If there the same brand is that fine or still change it?
Also, what about for storage drives?
every cable is the same man
So, just unplug the psu and put the new one in?
thats why you cant just buy generic sleeved cables, they have to either be extentions or custom fitted
if same base model (like 500w to 850) itll be fine
which is what he said i think
Lol. Not really. 8 pinnis the same eihter end. Check it yourself.

i mean he can check if the endings are the same
Pull down a psu pinout doagram. Look for yourself. I have. Juat sayin
if i upgraded the same model of psu and just did wattage id be shocked if it had a different base connector
The model should have the same pinout throughout all the wattage variants. Tho different models (PX, Amp, DF, HX, RMx, etc) will sometimes differ
which is what i was saying yeah
When I unplug the cables from mobo and storage drives, do I leave them in the case and plug them back in later, or completely remove them and use the new ones from the new psu?
yea, was just giving an example of a clicking noise
I have a client that has a bottom mounted power supply that has a 12 inch cable assembly from the power supply to the motherboard. The failed power supply is a Logisys PS480A12BK, combo ATX and SATA. I have ordered 3 different similar power supplies but all of them have a motherboard cable that is much too short. Does anyone know of a power supply that has a long enough cable? It needs to be a minimum of 11 inches. Thank you!
like i said the last time you put this here
get an extension
or
bam
Should i go for the p400a rgb or the lancool ii mesh rgb
Anyone heard news of the seasonic syncro q7 release date?
remove everything and use new
what are the thoughts on a Seasonic Focus GX-750
I found one of those at a good price that’s only a few months old
and a 850 watt RM850 that’s a few years old but has less than 2k hours
used psu is a bad idea
Used psu can be ok if you know how it was used and for how long it was used
Like I’m fine buying a 3 month used PSU that was in a light gaming rig
But when it’s in that area where it’s just used and you know nothing about it, don’t get it
Any thoughts on the silent base 802?
good case, great feeling and very quiet but not great for airflow
like most Be Quiet cases
how do i check a PSU before installing it
dont want to kill my PC with a bad PSU
paperclip test
My case USB’s won’t work windows is updated and everything
It has a 2.0 and 3.0 every thing is plugged in correctly I promise
im playin vr wtf u want
does anyone have a good 2x 8 adapter for the Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
that they could recomend to me
Whats the best psu manufacturer?
Yeah, i knew that
and you also have to wonder
But how is the PSU it self, like supplyer wise
how much does a ssd company that cant even do that right
how much do they know abt psus
if you can find the oem then maybe
but id mention that psu guy
decks
It says CWT
I have the Lian Li lancool 215 and the argb works on the fans but I can not change the argb colors on my fans and there is a button on a case to do that. The argb fans are connected to a fan hub that was included with the case. I read and you can change the argb with the button on the case even if it’s connected to the fan hub that comes with the case, but for me it does not work. Can anyone help? Thanks.
yep it's a very good PSU, same platform as DQM/Revolution DF 
thx
This might be a stupid question but if micro center is selling an open box lian li o11 and the price is 120 but the problem is cracked glass would they sell it with cracked glass or would they replace it?
theyd sell it cracked
thats why its cheaper
K thx
can anyone recommend a solid inverted mid ATX case? I've been scouring the internet for one and either they're 300 dollars, sold out, or the manufacturer is completely dead cough riotoro cough
Hello, I need some help.. I want to make my Gamer PC and I want to know if I have room to putting the Graphic Card RTX 3080 in the tower MSI MPG GUNGNIR 110R ATX Mid with MSI MAG CORELIQUID 360R AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 360mm Radiator, Triple 120mm PWM Fans in front side (not in the top because dont have a room there, just onlu 240R can in the top)?
How big is your power supply?
That should be a thought as well as physical fitment.
Max GPU length for that case is: 340mm
3080 FE is 285 mm so that one would fit
Depends on the other brands you are looking at and how long they are
But my doubt is because I need to install first the AIO 360Rand I dont know if this 340mm is without the radiator
Can the fans go on the outside of the case behind the front panel?
The manual is pretty bad, can't tell
If the fans can go on the outside, you'll have room. If the fans must go inside the case, you won't have enough room
Yep is bad... that is the reason of my doubt
So you don't have teh case yet?
not, supposedly arrive next Friday 8
I watch a video in youtube but some people say yes and other not..
I'm going to go with no
GPU = 285mm
Maxx GPU length is 340mm
I mean, it depends on if the max length for GPU includes fans or not
If it includes the fans, yes, it will fit
If the max dimension doesn't include the fans, it won't fit
Looking at this picture, it would be tight.
I appreciate your help sr
I know the tower come with 4 fans, 3 in front and 1 back.
supposedly I need to remove these 3 fans and putting the 3 fans with radiator of my MSI MAG CORELIQUID 360R AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 360mm Radiator, Triple 120mm PWM Fans
so, the big doubt is the max GPU length after that
Yes
After reading it some more, I THINK it will fit
I'm assuming the max GPU length includes the fans
If so, it will fit
thank you so much... if not, I can return to newegg and buy other more bigger?
I would assume so but I don't know their return policy to be honest
Ok, I try to talk with customer service..
Best idea, yes
Again, thank you so much.. have a nice day... regards
You too!
yes
Been waiting on an answer and already bought it lmao

Thanks
So hows the Seasonic FOCUS PX-850? It seems like a good psu and I can get a rather good deal on it, I've just never used any of the FOCUS series psus
PX
Cool beans
quick question
My current case is one of those cases where the psu is on the top
I have heard it can cause heat on the power supply
Is that a major problem?
Is the fan on the bottom or the top? And does the fan have plenty of clearance?
bottom of the psu
the fan takes up the heat of the pc
and yes it does have a good amount of clearance
I wouldn't worry about it a whole lot unless your case has poor airflow
it does
its a 120mm fan on the side, another one on the bottom front, and an 80mm for exhaust
its a NOX FORTE
I honestly wouldn't worry about it all that much
Hello, anyone in here atm?
no
k
Bought a Dell Optiplex 7010 MT for a buddy of mine. Trying to help him out.
The PSU is a stock 275w PSU.
I have an old Nvidia Geforce GTX 760 i was gonna put it in. It's got an i5-3470, 16gb DDR3, a SSD i had
BUT, the stock PSU has no aux connectors to connect to the GPU. So I was looking for a new PSU unit, because the most I can run is 75w with this
Good!
Yeah, need bigger PSU unit because this mobo will only run 75w or less
i like eVGA and Corsair PSU's for cheaper builds. This is my ex army buddy, disabled vet and i'm just trying to help him out since he's stuck at home most of the time.
Any idea's on a decent cheap 450w-600w PSU?
Yeah
biggest 7010 they make
they make 3 smaller cases than this one
i'm pretty sure a regular ATX PSU will fit in it no problem
but just wanted some second hand advice too before i went ahead and bought this PSU. Couple of other army buddies threw in a gaming keyboard and mouse and monitor for him
how cheap is cheap?
So I appreciate any advice you guys can give me when it comes to getting his system up and running.
$25-$45
something like this
Or this
Will either of those be okay? Will they actually fit inside the case?
okay
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.6 Last Update: 29-11-2020 Gray - EoL / obsolete. Generally not recommended for purchase since its going to be pre-owned, refurbished or old stock. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (...
I've been looking for one in that price range that's not.......going to be an issue
but will it fit and work?
Let me check connections, BRB
ok
yes, that will work!
okay cool, what did you have to check to see if it would work? 20 or 20+4 pin connector? Size?
YW
@graceful sedge cheap PSU: goto EVGA bStock and find a 500BR for like $30
restock Wednesday I think
@lofty pewter thanks Hei
better quality then cv450
and np
I had an evga 700 bronze
Paste link please
Lowest price is $45
No where close to 30
almost like thats the exact product i linked them 
I'm building a work computer using an old E machines case, bought a gigabyte UD B450M DS3H V2 mobo and a EP400M psu based on neweggs pc-builder ... the psu only has a ATX_12V 4-pin, the mobo has a 8-pin ... do I have to sent the psu back or will it work just plugged into half of the mobo 8-pin?
It's keyed so that it will fit, but I don't know if that's by design or not ...
The pc is only going to be a AMD Ryzen 5 3400G, 1 TB M3 SSD, no hard drive, no overclocking, no big graphics card, 16GB RAM ...
it will run
but if it exceeds what the mobo needs itll shut off
although you dont have much hardware to demand too much power so it should boot
it just will throttle power draw
Hey guys, I am currently looking for a case. One that has good airflow, fits atx, white exterior, and rgb fans. Any suggestions?
^also, my budget is around 90-120 cad
I personally dont think that it looks good, but thats my opinion, and not yours. But it has pretty good airflow.
the pc case case i was gonna get was tempered glass and i didnt want to break it.
and this was the next best deal
You really gotta tweak the glass to break it.
i was worried for shipping
it was gonna come from fed ex
Every company has bad shipping drivers
true
ive never got a case shipped to me so i wouldnt know, i would probably never order a case, probably just pick it up
I've had a few cases shipped to me, never had an issue
Yeah same I ordered a focus g and it came perfect condition
this looked cool until i saw the price tag but i dont even have a cut out to see the psu https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-strix-850g-white-850w/p/1HU-009B-000Z9?Description=asus gundam&cm_re=asus_gundam-_-9SIAPMXDAV0994-_-Product&quicklink=true
oof
the psu i bought more then doubled in price https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MGzFf7/asus-rog-strix-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-rog-strix-850g-white
that psu is sexy
What is that case?
Thanks, that was what I thought, but I didn't know ... this PC just runs accounting s/w and stores to the server, all the PSU is running is the M3 SSD, the CPU and network port ...
@scenic lance it uses very old tooling, and is not great for airflow (although you can mount a fan on the side that helps a lot), cable mgnt is going to be.... hairy. BUT for the price it is better than others and it is very similar to an older case
once build
it wont get opened until death
or cleaning
and cbl mgnt is no problem
zipties galore
Does anyone know a small case that can happily accommodate dual 240 AIOs?
well I think any mid tower case with front and top mounting support can, and many do
do y’all have any outstanding opinions on the NZXT H510, reviews say the airflow is pretty eh but i like the cable management aspect
airflow is not good
its like a 10+ degree difference with front panel off from gamers nexus benchmark
hm i see
i’m picking parts out for my first build and i rlly do like the clean white design but the hot temps is turning me away a bit
theres also the 4000d airflow in black/white
2009 moment
has anyone heard much about the Seasonic Syncro Q7?
Oh, that's a case
I don't like the front. Looks nice but need to wait for airflow reviews
well it needs to come out
i google the release date and it says Dec 20th 2020, which is wrong, is there any word on a new release date?
No Idea. Didn't even know they were making a case
damn, they announced it november and its pretty much radio silence after, similar to the 011 mini launch
I would email support / customer service / product inquiry via the seasonic dot com website if you're interested. They do care about their customers (them and Noctua are tops).
I've dealt with PC hardware companies for 25 years since ordering a 'cutting edge' barebones 6x86 pr150+ 120mhz Cyrix computer from Global or Dartek in 1996 - they were swallowed by Tiger Direct, the rebate sham capitol of the internet later on sadly. That said I did manage to overclock the little Cyrix in 1996 to run quake good 🙂
But if you're going to deal with companies and care about how you're treated by them, Noctua and Seasonic get top honors, followed very closely by Fractal. So DO inquire.
id say noctua, seasonic, fractal, and evga are the kings of this
XFX gets an honorable mention for good RMA service, they sent me a free set of hot swap fans when my RX 480 8g card's hot swap fans rattled like crazy and I was ready to toss the PC out of the side of my house - it was THAT maddening. Absolute rubbish GPU coolers, but GOOD customer service none-the-less, not as good as the above though. I've had more XFX cards fail than any other brand aside of BFG - but BFG went under due to absolutely NO QC process what-so-ever before shipping product.
EVGA from what I can tell has very good service, and the products are nice. The cooler on my 2070 'thuper' is a bit loud at boot but is to be expected from dual-ball-bearing fans (ball bearing fans get loud at full tilt, but they are some of the longest lasting, and don't mind being horizontal unlike sleeve bearings). You almost never hear the cooler under load and it keeps the 2070 'thuper' (said with a lisp) nice and cool / never hits 75~80c even in Quake II RTX or other games.
the issue with xfx is that they factor good customer service into their costs
release bad products and then just fulfill customer needs when something fails
its cheaper than releasing good products
evga just makes good stuff
Every EVGA card I've come into contact with was at-least as well made as the competing products from Asus and Gigabyte. The step up program is nice, too, just incase you blew a TON of money and it still isn't good enough.
I don't mind paying a little extra for good products AND good service. A good product is only half the battle, if you don't care for your customers, they won't buy from you if there's a problem, and with PC's like anything else - everything will fail eventually, it's just a matter of when.
I bought a refurbished samsung LCD screen back in 2008 to replace my 700$ 17" LCD screen from 2001 that STILL worked. The screen came broken, twice, but Newegg still gave me an RMA the second time and credited my account properly - so kudos to them. I didn't have many bad products from newegg unless the shipping company murdered something.
I won't be buying XFX again if I can help it, BUT, in North America they DO allow you to change the cooler for something better / something else, and still keep your warranty intact. You just need to send a note to customer service so they can mark your account (this was prior to 'right to repair' going through though).
I never really had issues with Fedex as much as I did UPS. UPS stood for Universal Package Smashers in our area. I actually told the one driver, "If I get one more round box, I'm going to stuff you into that box and throw it around a while." I'm not the typical meek introvert or computer nerd type guy one would think orders said parts, so I didn't have an issue anymore with that. Thankfully, I didn't have to call his boss and get him fired (I don't like doing that).
Thankfully SSD's are hard to murder!
i dont use ssds for the most part hehe
I used to buy HDD's, last HDD I got though was a stack of Hitachi 2TB server pulls, darn things are neigh-indestructible. I use them for backups. I keep one in the PC, so I can throw files on and off it when needed (otherwise it stays off), and the rest are cold backups kept in the drawer that I hook up only when needed.
I have over half a dozen 500gb SSD's in here, some TLC drives like Crucial MX500's, and some older MLC toshiba server/enterprise drives in 500gb size. I think there's one or two off-brand that I got on 'fire sale' basically dirt cheap and needed something to replace a failed drive in a RAID array. Often some of those off-brand drives are just left-over old stock that has MLC or TLC chips in it and does slightly less IOPS but is still just fine to use for a daily or for game storage.
I really have lost count, but with how cheap the 500gb drives and 1tb drives are these days (I have a 1tb nvme 'inland pro' brand for the OS), it gets very easy to amass a ton of them. Heck I have one 240gb M.2 Sata SSD I paid FIVE DOLLARS for new. That was a good deal.
yeah lol
Doing game development and modding all the time, those graphic files (Especially when working at 8k square or 16k square or all-day 4k files), and models, really REALLY eat up the space, especially when using Maya as for some reason it writes absolutely huuuuuge Collada export files (that's what I export to BeamNG.Drive for my Los Injurus City Map mod for example).
I used to keep a separate PC for just storage but couldn't stand it any more, mostly because being physically disabled, I couldn't get up to go use it.
get urself a nas
I buy whatever brand is a good price and has good performance for that price. I don't mind a slightly slower SSD if it's dirt cheap and I just keep backups on it or store my games on it.
I'll contact them to see what they have to say, Thank you for the suggestion!
mine are cache
Nah I don't want to keep my data outside the case except the cold backups, it's just too much 'stuff' to deal with, and for what the NAS costs, it's just MORE expense, more wires, more noise, more things to go wrong. So I keep some drives in the drawer and pop the side panel off monthly and do my backups for an hour or two - then it's done. When you don't have good mobility often you don't want to have more 'stuff' because it's already going to look like a hoarder-in-training if things keep going the way they have the last 5 years. 4600sq/f house and I only use about 1500sq/f because the rest of it is too far to walk (it's literally empty, but it's all one floor and it's 100 feet to the kitchen already). The house is paid for though so I can't see to moving or anything... but yeah, I really don't want to buy anything more or I could get buried alive in here and no one would find me for weeks.
lol
In my world, anything that can go wrong eventually will do so. I don't want to add more components between myself and my data, if possible.
id go synology over ur method tbh
It's like those knuckleheads that get suckered into 'wireless charging' for their Apple iPhones... someone tried to show how it was the 'cool thing' to me. I said really, you REALLY are so impressed with that? "Well I don't have to plug it into the wall anymore" I said, yes you do, you have to plug the charger in don't you, just like your old charger? You just got suckered into buying something you didn't need, congrats! Now instead of plugging your phone into a charger that plugs into the wall, you paid xxx dollars for wireless charging to plug the "wireless" charger into a wall!
Am I the only one that thinks that's a sham or are people really sold on 'wireless charging' stuff? I could see having it for a mouse and the mouse mat charges it, or a wireless charger for your car so you just set your phone somewhere.
its nice to set the phone down to charge it
Yeah I can understand the convenience of it in the car especially for sales people in the car, but I never was one to hang on my phone much, one of those 'just use it for the occasional phone call' kind of folks. I like to leave most of my tech at home, not put my data on everything, and so-forth. I don't like complex phones because I'd never get use out of it (I don't even like texting, I like to type here, with a proper keyboard).
I'm in sales. I need my phone. One for the business and one for me.
I refuse to put personal data on a company device
@opal night yeah I used to do sales, so I get that, I used to sell commercial truck parts (they're heavy)... but my phone battery was always able to last several days back then (I had a blackberry, when blackberry was relevant, the one with the rolling ball on it). I never got into the 'always on my phone' craze, when I am out in the world the LAST thing I want to do is be beeped at and bothered by technology. I want to enjoy my surroundings, and the people I am in the company of. Basically, I am the tail of the generation that doesn't 'do everything on the phone'. I do what I must on the PC, and the rest of the time I just use the phone for phone calls (and there's a house phone here, surprise surprise).
I would go absolutely batty if something like a phone beeped at me constantly - if this is any of you - you have my blessings I don't know how you stand it.
Yes, commercial truck brake drums, landing gear, 4515/4707 brake shoes, and the odd-ball front ones, that is what we used to service, truck and trailer.
That's some type of pump truck?
Sucker squirter
Commercial grade pressure washer and shop vac
Sewer cleaner and hole digger
Obviously has some type of small boom on it. Ah, okay, so you can say your product sucks and still not get in trouble at work! That's always nice.
i can say a lot of things about it that I'd get in trouble for here
Hahahahaha yeah better not busy the bot then.
I really liked the job, I just ended up getting a better one. The mechanics I dealt with primarily were always a blast to talk with and sometimes at the end of the day when I was basically almost done there was always time to blab. I miss that. I wish I was not disabled and hadn't moved away years back, but alas, can't have everything.
For the rest, I guess we'll just have to go to newegg and get suckered into buying something because "Ooohh! Shiny!". Maybe one day video cards will be available to buy again.
I got a 3070 this morning 🤷
Lucky lucky. I hope the 8gb limits do not get hit too fast on the 3070 and my 2070 Super here, Outside of game development I don't hit it much but there's a few titles like Cyberpunk and MS Flight Sim and I think one of Rockstar's recent games (IIRC, might be wrong) that hits the 8gb limit. I know in game development I pine for 16~24gb cards badly though.
Keep in mind, that's allocated, not used. Can't read actual useage without debugging the GPU, despite what a couple claim
I just can't stomach paying for what they want for 8gb or 10gb cards right now and definitely not for the 3090, after paying 572$ for a EVGA 2070 Super Gaming Black in december 2019.
i want to but this pus but im not sure about it 🤔
I use the development readouts for the SDK on DX11 and DX12 renderers. I don't have one working for Vulkan yet though.
its about 120$ and its modular
Yup, it's in the Tier A list. I'd be comfortable with it
Intel also has a tool that tells you, but that's on the other machine (Haswell 4790k machine), it's an SDK tool that helps for game developers to see GPU resources and what's being batched in draw calls and what is making the scene 'expensive' to render (it's a nice tool, actually, I really have been meaning to put it on here but have to read the EULA to see if you can use it on AMD machines).
@scenic lance Yes, 120$ for a 750w PSU with a 10 year warranty is very good deal. Normally those go for a touch more than that.
I recently purchased a 3030 EVGA FTW3 and am in the market for a PSU, it has 3X8 pins. I would appreciate any support, I was thinking of purchasing this - https://www.newegg.com/evga-supernova-750-g5-220-g5-0750-x1-750w/p/N82E16817438162?Item=N82E16817438162
but was wondering do I need to buy an additional 8-pin? I couldn't see if the stock provided 3 x 8pins
Apologize english is my second language
You're good
@cunning ingot you typed 3030, do you mean 3080 or 3090 ?
That has 4 VGA cables
yeah . i was looking for corsair but its too expensive
All good!
Tier B too, not bad
That pic, 4x PCI-E power
Comes with the cables too
1 x 24 Pin ATX (20+4)
2 x 8 Pin EPS (4+4)
6 x 8 Pin PCIe (6+2)
9 x SATA
4 x Four-Pin Peripheral
1 x Floppy
A good quality power supply is the foundation of a great system, so don't go too cheap. However, if you have a good reliable power company and a tight budget, you might be able to get away with Tier B supply just fine, just use a GOOD surge protector.
Did you say 3080 yeah?
Yes
This is cheaper, but still better?
Do you have a comprehensive tier list I could review?
Search up psu tier list
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.6 Last Update: 29-11-2020 Gray - EoL / obsolete. Generally not recommended for purchase since its going to be pre-owned, refurbished or old stock. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (...
Thank you all for you advice, I wish you the good health
Also
Specifically for the 3080
There's a thread going on the EVGA forums
Just PSU info only and what GPU only for reference. OK Here is the list so far. As of 12/14/20 - Check the list before adding your PSU, if it's not on the list already post it. ASUS Thor 850ASUS Thor 1200ASUS ROG STRIX White 850 Bequiet Dark Power Pro 1000Bequiet Dark Power Pro ...
Thank you, I will read through this
YW\
Do you have any surge protector recommendations
Wow, nothing like competition between AMD and Nvidia for 'need to have a list of what PSU's work with these power hungry cards' ...
its just 100$ 🤔
@cunning ingot I usually get surge protectors at a brick and mortar store, I get a 20~25$ one with most of the bells and whistles, dont get a very cheap weightless one, get one with some weight to it as they're usually better made. For example, the harbor freight 8$ ones are absolute rubbish and wouldn't protect a game-boy.
hmm
The last surge surpressor I got at Worst Buy ... I mean Best Buy was pretty good but right now there's absolutely no way I can move the 40" screen or equally as tall tower to figure out what model it is... Just go to Staples or even the grocery store will sometimes sell a solidly made 20$ model or might be a few bucks more, it's worth it to protect your hardware, it should be replaced at a minimum every 3 years.
You can look up the surge protectors by rating on newegg, they will be able to sell it to you cheaper
Power supplies, surge protectors, motherboards ... those things are hooked essentially to EVERYTHING in your computer, never ever cheap out on those 3 if at all possible.
For those not on the graphics channel, it was good chit-chatting, sorry if I wrote a book (I do this). I have to wander over there for a bit with a question.
i worrying about psu couse once my psu fried my 2 hdd and coused lost important data
i wanna get good one xd
ok ill take a look at that thermaltake
Is the recent psu that went on sale a good psu?
Oki just asking tho because I already bought another one
Should I turn my psu off everyone I’m done using my pc for at least a couple hours? Or is that bad
what are your guys thoughts on Gskill psu's?
I’m really anxious always that if power running through the system and it goes out my pc will break somehow
yeah theres nothing wrong with turning off your psu when you have powered down
and im not 100% sure but unless you are downloading something and the power goes out you should be fine
they dont make them, so you need to find the oem theyre rebranding for the model you're getting
ah, so they are just rebranded OEM psus then?
basically everyone is
theres like 5 people that actually make psus
superflower is the god tier manufacturer
the leadex iii is like
s tier psu
seasonic and great wall are the other two top tier psu makers
no, seasonic makes all the top teir corsair, evga, fractal design, NZXT, etc
yeah, FSP and delta are pog, but they are more in the enterprise scene
great wall is one of the better chinesium manufacturers from what i can remember, they also build corsair and etc units
yeah
but
be quiet makes some kickass psus
and those are fsp
and imo if the brand makes enterprise stuff its more than good enough for consumers
yeah, it varies by psu model
well ofc
channel well makes some be quiet psus 
idk what my next psu is gonna be, the next thing im upgrading is hopefully my cpu in like 3 years
Cwt op
well, im still hunting for rtx 3080
Cwt makes most of the top tier Corsair PSUs iirc
i thought CWT was only alright?
i see
yeah sassy as much as id like to upgrade my pc right now
servers are more fun
my new server is an absolute monster lol
once i replace my 1080, ill be using my system for a looooooong time
Cwt makes corsair's CX, TXM, HX, RM, and HXi
At least those
I wish orionpsudb comes back
mr1111 what time is it for you rn?
2:19
oh ok
Recently been sleeping around 3am
so youre just like me
same difference
Anime let's me watch in the dark on my bed so
too uncomfortable to be in bed with headphones
Bean
CX gray is not made by CWT
neither is TXM 850w
RM also has a unit made by Chicony
HXi and HX for the most part is CWT
what is a good cheap 750w psu?
Phanteks AMP, $100 Corsair CX $95. When it comes to power supplies, good and cheap don't really go well together.
oh alright
How cheap were you thinking?
100-150 range
ok
Great PSU
ive seen lots of reviews on psus but there mixed so idk to get or not but the psu you reccomend sounds great ima go find on newegg
@fallow cairn CX grey is made by CWT and Greatwall. Two models
oh thanks
YW
this psu is perfect thanks mate
model for one made by greatwall?
@opal night hey, went with a Thermal take TR2 430w PSU
Oh, this is for that old pc ya?
To put in that Dell Optiplex 7010, yep
@fallow cairn should be a split for all wattages, but only can confirm split with Greatwall ones for the 450w from very basic research.
That one us on your Tier D list
Yeah, you shouldn't be pulling much wattage from it though
yep I do remember briefly one was made by GW
That should still be fine though right?
just don't remember which one
@opal night can I have you double check and make sure that one will work/fit in that pc? Dell Optiplex 7010 Mid tower. I5-3470, 250gb SSD , 16gb DDR3 1600mhz, Geforce GTX 760 4gb, thats it.
And thanks for all the help yesterday to Vintage
@fallow cairn eh, I was just rattling em off by what was on orion
anybody know the best budget airflow cases
Define budget
20$, 40$, 60$, 80$, which one of those do you call "budget"
under 60USD
Montek then
Reason: Bad word usage
Depends on the model
EVGA W1 is in fact bad
W1s are crap
N1 crappier

@gusty crag all depends on the model
Every company makes good and bad PSUs
Like EVGA G2 and P2 are godly
But then you have w1 and n1 that are just crap
Corsair has RM and RMx which are good,
And then old CXm and VS that may or may not be actual bombs
why are w1's crap?
Seasonic has focus plus gold and plat,
And then S12iii
Protections, ripple, voltage regulation
huh
its the only avaliable evga psu where i live
at least n the stores i look
for evga
and that isnt overpriced
What country
brazil
i mean
i could look into different stores
but then i would pay for 2 sippings
shippings*
SA is a fun time for parts
if im using an evga 500W W1 for a ryzen 5 1600AF with a 1650S
would i have a problenm
problem*
?
It's a "do you want it to last" question
i mean]
i plan on upgrading in 3 to 4 years
and a psu switch would be inevitable if i did
The warranty length usually tells you how long the manufacturer thinks it's gonna take before it dies
3 years on the w1
Compares to like 7 years on a G3, or 10 years on a g2
thats enough
and i see the rwviews for it are good
i think i will pull the trigger
on it
and besides
its cheap
I mean
You really wanna trust the rest of your parts to a cheap power supply?
Save $20 and cost you hundreds?
it has 80 plus white, so I dont think it will burn away the rest of my parts
That means absolutely nothing

