#cases-psu-and-cooling
1 messages · Page 33 of 1
it would be better to go off two separate cords from the psu but it isnt sketchy and it should work
all that matters is wire gauge and PSU 12v wattage
you can take 1x6 and split it across 3x8, as long as the psu has some beefy cables and 450w available
Ah got ii thank you. I’ve got 750w so I should be all set.
what 750W?
I think we all want to know that ^
make sure to state actual model, not just company name. As we cant judge a PSU from company, efficiency rating, wattage, etc. There is a lot more to a PSU then just that
Corsair HX750
oh
ok then, yeah, i think your fine lmao
you can use 2x8 on just one cable
just leave the 2nd PCIe cable out of the build
I mean you technically lose like 0.5% perf from that because like you lose a super small amount of power due to electrical resistance compared to dual cable
i would rather have one less cable
@lofty pewter would that still be the case if the PSU was single rail?
almost all reliable psus are single rail
@worldly dust afaik it's just simply that the resistance of the cable causes it
yeah that makes sense
I like dual cable because y cable is hard to make look nice
also true
Any recommendations for a cheap but decent ATX case?
LIAN LI PC-O11 Dynamic XL Full-Tower Dual chamber Gaming Case w/ USB 3.1 Type-C, Tempered glass on the front & side
with Thermaltake Floe Riing RGB 360mm Premium Edition Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Copper Cold Plate (3 x Thermaltake Riing RGB 120MM Fans)
and
FAN: 6X 120mm Enermax T.B RGB Twister Bearing PWM Case Fans 500-1500 RPM w/ Remote Controller
Anyone here use the silentiumpc armis ar6x evo tg argb?
Anyone know if NZXT is planning a second run of the H1 cases?
yeah they should be restocking in the future but dont quote me
Ty
Dumbass question but why is the Corsair RM (2019) 750W only $5 more then the Corsair RMx (2018) 650W on pcpartpicker
650w/750w PSUs seem to be the same price to make I guess. So prices tend to be very close to each other
I’m gonna run a r5 1600 af + 1650 super (for the NVENC). Should I get a 500w PSU or 550w PSU for a few dollars cheaper
550w can run stock 3950x and stock 2080ti
i honestly dont get why people are so afraid of using the capability of the hardware they have
Well, usually ppl try to get away with crappy units
that would be an assumption about someones intention @elfin trout
and you should know better than that :)
i got a metal box for my case
okay so i bought a case from the newegg site but i am regretting it a little bit because the case itself doesn't have much airflow to it from what i can tell. is there someone here who can help me understand the case i bought better? The case in question is this https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811121136
@tacit tide make sure to include " [a good] 550w can do..." to avoid confusion with people simply just see wattage for determining quality
@deep stump that case is yikes...
Yeah I figured as much
There are some holes in the bottom and it's not flat on the ground
From what I can remember (not looking at it rn) there's the bit on the back, holes on the bottom and that's really it
enough for two 120mm fans on the bottom probably
where are you going to have this pc at? top of desk? in a cubi? directly on floor?
for now i think it will be on the floor. i havent planned that all out yet
if i had to chose, either on a table or on the floor
if you plan on building in it def get some fans to put in the bottom for intake, and one for the rear as exhaust
I do like the front of it though
or maybe just try and sell it locally and get https://www.newegg.com/black-fractal-design-focus-g-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811352069 😄
it did come with one fan but im not sure what kind it is or what i should look for.
its a small 80mm fan
right, but is there much of a difference in the case fans?
yes
like what?
how do you measure it?
I can just tell ya
how?
i can get it in an hour and a half
hopefully it has screw holes for fans and not just a spot for air flow, there really is no info on it
because it isnt mesh like the back. its just holes
ill have to look at it again later
though actually, do you think you can predict how much heat a build might make if you knew all the parts involved?
i have been using pcpartpicker to keep track of it so i have a list of everything
I can predict it'll get rather warm just by the case itself lol. but yeah you can show us the parts list
@deep stump
-Sunbow has rebrands out there and you can't really tell what is what until you receive it. Most of the time it'll be a garbage SSD you get. So don't get it
-PSU has coil whine issues
i am fairly certain that the 90's wants their case design back
and the PSU is the wrong one cause i am to lazy to update it with the right one
i got a cx 550watt
@lofty pewter
and i am not talking about the outside of that case, Box has got that covered already
CX non M is fine
yeahhhh thats why im here. i figured AFTER i bought it that its bad
just a FYI, be mindful of sharp edges on the inside while building in it, it looks like bent edges, and those can be fairly sharp
i dont think there was anything that sharp when i opened it up
just keep it in mind :)
thank you
@flat eagle
oh yikes
Yeah
Yes
maybe there is a front intake?
What would I be looking for?
That's the front from the back
Turn your phone to the right
Just a quick question, I'm an idiot for forgetting but which one is off on the PSU: the o or the -
@flat eagle nothing on the front panel
0 = off
Okay thank you. Just got a new PSU and I didn't know if they left it on when it was shipped
wouldnt really matter if they did
as small as you can make it
So new case, stick with this one and the one fan, or try to squeeze two fans on one spot?
does it matter how many watts my psu is over the required wattage of a pc. I know it's good to go 50-100 watts over but idk about going higher
You can run a 100 watt dell off a 1600 watt power supply without issues.
well why though
because, we had it
Anyone see the abkoncore t250 yet?
@hushed yoke i run an rx 580 and ryzen 5 2600 on a 400 watt
not on my main pc, whenever i use it the psu gets H O T
well, electricity does get hot lol
PSU stuff: power wise yeah, quality wise probs not
Should I get a Lian Li Lancool 2 or NZXT H510i? there both the same price so I was wondering if there is a better one between the two.
depends on your buget.
They’re both good cases. The lancool has better airflow but imo the h510i looks nicer so it’s up to you which is more important to you
It might not be perfect, but this is still the case I want (ignore the URL name, the actual case at the link is different):
https://www.newegg.com/black-phanteks-enthoo-luxe-2-e-atx-full-tower-case/p/N82E16811854096
what psu should i get if I get a rx5700xt
Well it depends on the other components lol but a 550w - 650w should be fine
If you give us everything else we can find a good one for u
how about a case?
like, big enough to fit a three fan, orr should I get a two fan one instead?
@golden kestrel
Well it depends on the board size again but I would recommend the meshify c for almost any built
at that budget, i would go AMP
if you can find it in stock that is
also, as has been noted in #general-chat @formal meadow that GPU does not physically fit in that case
look here, under dimensions
5.41 cm
now look there under GPU support
It’s 299.7
GPU max thickness 4.4 cm
its not the length
its the thickness of the card
because there isnt any space "below" the card (in that case)
a GPU like the one you have chosen does not fit
I wonder if the 650 watt AMP will ever come back in stock
you start by NOT disabling the compatibility filter on pcpartpicker
a regular founders edition card fits just fine
or a evga black
or a XC
or a AMP
or a gaming
etc etc etc
Where do I find the thickness for it <- by going the product part #
which for something like the evga black is this 08G-P4-3081-KR
GPU Clearance: Up to 325mm
GPU Max Thickness: 44mm
Height: 4.38 in - 111.15 mm
Will that fit?
what you listed is the measurements for what will fit
you didnt list a card together with your question about "will that fit?"
so since i dont know what "that" you are referencing, i cannot answer you
Any suggestions for a power supply like the Phantek AMP? Since it's out of stock everywhere
@tender root I finally realized my corsiar cxm actually does have coil whine lol. Its pretty annoying now that Ik its there 😂
i am looking for a new case, i have a windforce 3x OC 2070S and a ML240R cooler. also looking for a new psu cause the one i have is bad.
also a mid tower
Always consider Fractal design Meshify C @tacit tide
i do not want that case, i have a long gpu and also would not like to mount my aio at the front
oh ok
well what about psu
i also have 2 2.5 inch drives and 1 3.5 inch drive if that matters
@tacit tide the meshify c has a psu shroud and a drive mounting bay
do any of the threadrippers use a different socket?
no like i also need a new psu
@lofty pewter and others if you have something to pitch in, what do you think of the neo eco gold zen psu? its on the same tier as the cx 2017 and like $10 cheaper than the 550W
I'll look into the review hopefully soonish when I'm not lazy. Most likely will be okay, probably only thing I could see going wrong would be worse warranty.
Cool thanks
i need help choosing a new case
Then the fractal design meshify c
But it needs to be able hold 8 3.5 drives
Oh dang you should of said that before lol
sorry
Np lol
Uh I can't really thing of a case that can hold 8. Most can only hold 2 3.5 drives
Sry bout that
You might be able to find some kind of server case that'll hold those.
Maybe @lofty pewter knows
@golden kestrel any case with a couple of 5.25 bays can do the trick
there is "old" stuff like thsi
and ofc, simpler versions too
I didnt even know 5.25 bays existed
cd/dvd/bluray bays @golden kestrel
Oh ok
Anyone have any experience with the Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic Razer edition? Ordered one for a birthday PC build and wanted to know if I should watch out for anything in particular.
sharp edges.
Someone pin this pls https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list-40/
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 12.4 welcome to the brand new PSU Tier List! Created and maintained by @Princess Luna, @DatTestBench, @Stefan Payne, @GreatMasterAden, @Juular, @Elisis and @LukeSavenije Last Update: 12-04-2020 Tiering of various units is opinion based off reputable sour...
it's actively pinned in #building-and-recc-chat
okay
Im possibly interested in this case. Can the 3.5 inch drive bays on it work for 2.5inch drives as well? as i currently have 3 SSDs and 1 HDD so want to ensure they will fit properly and nicely into it
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/NRvZxr/phanteks-case-phes515etgbk
Yep, a 3.5 inch bay can be equipped with a 3?5 to 2.5 bracket/adapter
With varying amounts of 2.5" drives per one 3.5" bay
From probably 1-2 lol
Who wants to help me troubleshoot a returned computer not displaying out
Great video explaining kVA vs watts.
Helpful when shopping around for UPS's, PSU's, other electrical toys.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tv_7XWf96gg
What is power factor? In this video we learn all about power factor starting at the basics. We cover, what is power factor, what is good and bad power factor, how to fix bad power factor, what is leading power factor, what is lagging power factor, how capacitors, inductors and...
Thermaltake Versa H18 is gone 😔
I am going to be buying a Thermaltake Core V21 soon. Anyone here have any thoughts on it?
Seems ok I know a lot of people use it @pulsar juniper
Believed it’s really good for airflow
@pulsar juniper I loved that case
so much so I ended up buying 2 of them and stacking them together
Ok, stupid question coming(first time builder) the power and reset switch plugs DONT have a + or - like the LEDs do, I ua enlooked in the manual and it didnt really help, which way do they go in?
I would help you, but i dont really know much (first time builder too) sorry about that
@cursive loom if you have the plugs and the +- is listed in the manual or on the board, there is usually an arrow/triangle on the plug on a certain side of it. Whichever side of the plug has the triangle is the positive
I hope that made senss
@cursive loom
@pulsar juniper oooooh ok! Thank you!!!! Also, I have a meshify C, and the atx plug is in 2 parts, the smaller plug doesnt look like its seating correctly but the numbers line up...
Well... Try reseating it, and if that doesn't work, send me a pic
Can it go down any further?
I try to push it further but I notced it has little feet, but they dont seem to connect to the bigger plug ?
Im dumb, sorry.
It's all good. Have you unplugged it and plugged it back in?
Also, did it click when you put it in?
The big one did click
Then it should be fine. What about the small one?
The small one didn't i plugged the big one in first then the small @pulsar juniper
Okay. Are you sure the small one is in all the way? @cursive loom
Sorry for not responding sooner. I was driving home lol
Yea me too, I went and got sushi lol
Dang... Now I want some sushi...
This quarantine, I'll tell you what. It isn't fun
It really isnt, thank God my sushi place is still doing takeout and 50% on Tuesdays and wednesdays
Your so lucky. The place I go to is closed, but it has the quick fried jalapeno sushi that is amazing.
Very nice. The place I go to is only sushi type stuff upstairs, but downstairs has an authentic Japanese ramen place
They are both excellent
Yummm
So I unplugged the smaller plug, and there is only 1 way its supposed to go in, I wonder if thats just hownit goes?
Maybe. Have you looked at Google?
@cursive loom The smaller 4-pin connector should have a little tab that rests under the 20-pin connector to hold it down. I'm guessing you plugged in the larger 20-pin connector first and tried to do the 4-pin second. You need to plug in the smaller one first or at least make sure that tab is under the 20-pin plug when you plug it all in. You should not be able to unplug the 4-pin once it is seated properly.
Edit: Those little feet don't exactly connect to the 20-pin plug, more that they hook under it.
Can't attach an image or link due to permissions, sorry.
@undone breach I see, I gotcha thank you!!
for future reference, in general, the 20 pin and the 4 pin can be combined and plugged in at the same time. Same goes for the 6+2pin setup that the GPU's use
Some PSUs let you sort of slide the +4-pin plug into place and it holds there, but I haven't seen many like that recently. Makes it kind of a pain. Whatever works though.
it is part of the spec for the plugs thou @undone breach
The ATX 20+4 pin?
aye
that there is "something" that they can latch together with
keep in mind, the "latch together" part is sadly up for debate by the implementer
I mean that some 4-pins will attach to the 20-pin and aren't easily detached...
aye, those are "sadly" also a thing
..and some just have a little foot sticking out that's easy to misalign.
aye
I was going to say "Why do we even need 20-pin compatibility" but I'm sure there's still a disappointing number of 20-pin mobos out there still.
:)
i would personally love for us to scale down on things again
it would personally not mind the added flexibility of having a couple of different standards
because as the industry as a whole seems to be moving, we are going down in power on the cpu side of things
(for a "good enough" performance level)
side note: just think about what kind of level of performance the next generation of APU will get us on the desktop side of things
and that is NOT going to need a 500watt psu
I almost don't dislike the standard that just delivers 12v to the board via a small jumper and has the board do the conversion. Not sure if it's an actual standard, but my PC at work is a HP Envy that does the 5v and 3.3v conversions on the board. Mine in particular is the Berks motherboard.
Seems like it would make sense from an efficiency standpoint.
in the isolated context of "efficiency"? yes.
in the context of " can we trust manufacturers to not skimp on things they shouldnt?" no.
True.
i am not against the spec
just to be clear here.
but i am against it being the ONLY spec
(which to be fair, is NOT what intel is suggesting)
the spec is aimed 100% at oem's/integrators
Assuming it cuts down on size, I wouldn't mind it for certain builds.
I just had to swap out a Seasonic PSU that died on me with a spare Corsair I had. Had to cram it into my Xigmatek Aquila case.
Huge. Freaking. Pain.
but that is the "thing", people are in general really adverse to paying for a custom-ish psu
which seasonic?
and was it out of warranty?
you have returned it right?
Yeah, need to box it up and ship it out, but the RMA has been approved.
good, they are normally good about it
one of the reasons i generally only deal with seasonic units for clients :)
Sat on my shelf looking for a project. Finally used it for a mATX build. 8700K and a GTX 1060. Ran great for 7 months. Swapped the GTX 1060 for a Radeon 5700 XT and it popped a breaker when I first hit the power button. Checked cables and reset the breaker, wouldn't even attempt to power on after that. No burnt smell, no magic smoke. Just nothing.
Yeah. =/
SS-760XP2 is your unit right?
aye, that one is a bit of a chunky package
Grabbed a BFG LS-550 out of another PC and it powered up the system just fine.
aye
Removed the Seasonic and tried to jump it with a paperclip but still didn't get anything out of it. No fan spinning, nothing on the 12v rail.
aye, just "dead"
on the topic of "custom" psus
i have one of these somewhere
that i have run with a nano-psu
https://streacom.com/products/nano160-fanless-psu/ <- something like that
which ofc has a external powerbrick
Oh wow. Still managed to fit a mITX in that? Thought it'd be Intel's weird 5x5 form or something.
Yeah, was going to say you'd probably need something like a PicoPSU in that.
nah, the f1c evo is a itx chassis
so yeah, the tech is there, its the lack of willingness to pay for it that keeps it out of the hands of people (imo)
because 80-ish euro for a 150w psu is not something people can get their heads around :)
well, look at it like this, they pay for a AIO that does nothing for them
so logically, it should be easier to convince them to pay for something that actually does something for them :)
I mean form factor does increase price. However my main concerns is as always, quality
their marketing has "<180mv ripple", which doesnt sound good and are missing some protections
Tho, they apparently have UPP, which I dont think could simulate UVP, but maybe?
@lofty pewter as always, context mate :)
which part of the last days conversation are you talking about?
most recent link of the NanoPSU
I'm not aware of many alternatives.
https://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/it.A/id.417/.f
picoPSU-120 is the smallest snap-in 12V ATX dc-dc power supply
Just ran across this too which looks nice but is obviously much larger. Need both the AC and DC modules for ~$130 USD.
https://hdplex.com/hdplex-internal-200w-ac-dc-adapter-with-active-pfc-and-19vdc-output.html
and wonders of wonders, HDplex also makes their own "weird" cases :)
just like streacom :)
almost like there is a pattern there :)
Yeah. (╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
I know a friend recently wanted a super small PSU. Tho, I didnt see and real PSU reviews on them and couldnt give it a real recommendation to do for them
i have only ever used the streacom units, because a friend worked as a sales rep for them, so he dropped some off years ago
not exactly units that (at the time) was available at the regular pc component vendor
Hello. I have been struggling with my first pc build in terms of size. Since I am moving, I do not want a large computer. I have looked into itx motherboards and cases but the itx mobos (x570i) have issues with m.2 cooling and vrm cooling. I have started looking into atx form factor but have not been able to find a good looking case with good cooling and small size. Any cases I should take a look at for my situation? Looking for the smallest solution.
less than 1k. I already have the gpu and storage (2 m.2 nvme) and the other parts I want to buy but want to look into atx mobo and small case for that motherboard.
What kind of CPU were you thinking? Also, any plans to overclock?
ryzen 7 3700x and I am thinking of overclocking
If the temps are good, then definitely yes.
I wouldn't think VRMs would be that much of a limiting factor. Guess it depends on the board. Looking into the Gigabyte X570 I now.
I am not worried about the atx mobos right now. I am more worried about the case because I want to fit an atx mb in as small as of a space as possible.
Ah
Im sure the mb situation will be fine. Only the case size 🙂
Seems like you'd need pretty much anything with a PCIe riser to relocate the GPU flat.
Taking a look...
Was thinking about going for a desktop-style case maybe to move PSU and mechanical drives down under the mobo but I think it takes up just as much if not more volume than a standard ATX case, it's just squashed.
You'll need a low profile cooler (or stock). (Edit: Or an AIO to move heat to the edge of the case)
Not going to be fitting a NH-D15 in that thing any time soon.
nothing "good" comes from going desktop style
at least not in the atx formfactor
there is simply too much surface area that is "wasted"
i am sadly on the way out the door shortly, but i am curious about your comment about the cooling on the itx solutions
because from experience, that hasnt been a problem at all
Node 202 is a bit smaller then G3
Super nice looking case, but Egg wants to fit a regular ATX board in the case.
kyle, the case looks fine but I would rather do more research on other cases before buying that one because of the design. I will keep it in mind in case thats my last choice 🙂
I mean, with some airflow and ITX this would be fine. VRMs are good enough with a bit of airflow.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZGDJ7P/gigabyte-b450-i-aorus-pro-wifi-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-b450-i-aorus-pro-wifi
tho if you really want to push clocks and have very minimal airflow over VRMs then this
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gBWfrH/msi-b450i-gaming-plus-ac-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-b450i-gaming-plus-ac
@tender root , looking at the reviews on Amazon about x570i motherboards (gigabyte, asus), many people are complaining about high temps on vrm and m.2. There are also some reviews about m.2 mounts screws being stripped
70-80
that's low
That's chilly.
VRMs will start to throttle at 115 - 120 or so
NAND flash should be kept at about 40c with controller temps being low, so whatever "high" temp is being reported in the M2 can be questionable too
Seems like that would be down to airflow anyways. Haven't heard of boards themselves causing high NVMe temps. Could be wrong. 
@timber salmon quick note on amazon "reviews" (and other not professional reviews) : Very very rarely can the people there actually discern between their bum and the electrical outlet they used to fry the part they are complaining about
lol, yeah also that
🙂 agreed. So 70-80 is considered normal temps?
normal in this regard
Had an old roommate that would tighten down fan screws like they were cylinder head bolts. He'd keep going until something went "CRACK" and the back it off half a turn and call it good.
I mean with a standard mid tower case Im pretty sure 70 - 80c would be a bit higher then one would expect
but ITX, seems pretty normal given standard airflow of ITX case
@timber salmon the "problem" is that people see something on some random site, most likely reddit in this case (since it is vrm related), and then without fully understanding what it actually means, they copy paste the living heck out of it all over the internet
people (in general, not you specifically) need to remember that the manufacturers actually make the parts to at least last the warranty period
I may be mistaken, but I believe some VRMs are rated for higher temperatures than others too.
@lofty pewter For the itx build, I would be using the silverstone sg13 case but I thought that 70-80 was pretty high for the ssd so thats why I started looking into atx.
yes, but it doesnt "matter" for 99.999999% of builders
SSD? typo or is SSD actually 70+?
70-80 for the SSD? Did they pack it in foam?
the m.2
nani the heck?
how in the world does one make a SSD run at 70 - 80c
actually wait
one ssd is on the back without a heatsink
C or F?
c
Remove the mobo risers and clamp down the NVMe drive to the chassis to use it as a heatsink. 
Edit: Please do not actually do this.
being realistic tho, thermal pad
the back of the mainboard slot is only really viable IF you have some airflow around there
because in a lot of cases, that is a completely static area
Honestly, I really think cases need to start including some kind of fan to push air behind the CPU socket. My old FX 8350 would get blistering hot.
Case manufacturers, if you're reading this and you decide to do it, I demand 5% royalties please and thank you.
side panel fans revival?
nah, that is on you, the builder to understand the need of your parts @undone breach
still tho, not like you need x570 tbh. The b450 Aorus Pro has M2 on front and VRMs good enough with a bit of case airflow
and as always, why is it that "interesting" talk happens when i have to attend out of house meetings
best of luck figuring things out @timber salmon
future proofing on what?
GPUs? we just barely got past gen3 x8 with the 2080Ti
M2? What workload are you going to do that you'll notice the jump in seq r/w?
I want it just so I can benchmark it over and over again. 🍆
tbh, that's mostly all gen4 will bring for a long time on the consumer side
Im thinking cpus.
Going between a M.2 SATA SSD on my work PC and my NVMe drives at home, I notice I get impatient waiting for programs to load on my work PC. Specs are near similar otherwise.
then 3950x/maybe 4950x (or insert different name if name is different)?
your case airflow and CPU cooler may struggle at that point before VRMs
Zen5 is most likely AM5
In my humble opinion, it's just as easy to sell a CPU/Mobo combo as it is a CPU. If you upgrade, might as well do both.
AMD's backwards compatibility concept seemed cool and all, but I got itchy not having the "proper" chipset for my CPU.
Been running 7-zip's benchmark on loop for a while. My mATX case with very poor airflow (8700K@4.6Ghz, MSI MPG Z390M) is hitting 58c on the VRMs (or maybe it's 47c, I'm not completely sure which is which).
those seem like some beefy heatsinks on VRMs tho
Yeah. It's been running for ~17 minutes now. Still warming up a little.
Also, I know CPU temps are a little warm. On the Corsair H115i, it was 90c with some Thermaltake TG-2 paste which is apparently terrible. Swapped it out for plain white goop and it's down to 70c. Got some MX-4 that I'm planning on swapping out Soon™️
ah yes, the good old soon ™️
That ~20c thermal delta between idle and load makes me think there's not enough clamping pressure on the CPU mount. Not real happy about that.
Or I mean, I guess maybe it could be just the paste? 
Kinda want to shim the backplate.
also I mean, delidding is also an option
because paste between die and IHS is amazing
This is the itx build I was planning on making: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BFKTV7 Water cooler is proof of concept. Dont know if that one will fit or not. Anything I should be worried about?
GPU sidepanel has ventilation, so dont do blower
then again seems like you may already have it cuz 1080
It would be the same price to do a single 2TB NVMe drive instead of two 1TB. You'd free up the second NVMe for later.
as another note, 120mm AIOs are a waste of money
AIOs noise normalized perf are roughly -5% to 1% better then a good aircooler. So only get them for looks
@undone breach I already have the 2 nvme 1tb laying around so I thought I would use them.
@lofty pewter gpu is not a blower. it has 2 fans
Also CL17 RAM, which would end up rounding up to CL18. CL16 RAM is about same price
I wonder if there's much performance to be gained throwing the NVMe drives in RAID with PCIe Gen4. I put two 950 Pros in mine thinking I'd get ridiculous speeds, but it bottlenecked somewhere and only gave me a ~10% bump.
Guessing not since they'd still communicate on Gen3?
raid controller probs
is cl17, cl16 etc cas latency?
CAS or tCL, yeah.
Also, all dual M2 ITX boards have the second M2 on the back
so basically, find a thermal pad
And this thermal pad would go on the back one?
yeah
Is there even room for cooling back there?
doubt it, which is why I suggested thermal pad. Just let the case itself dissipate the heat
tho, idk if thickness will be a concern
thermal pad being too thick may not do much in helping thermals
I think it'll most likely be fine tho
Might be okay for a cheaper storage drive or something. 🤷♂️
One thing I liked about my desktop-style mATX case is the PSU sits fan side up under the CPU socket. I like to think it's providing some light but significant cooling to the back of the mobo.
This monstrosity. (Also pictured, that soon-to-be-dead Seasonic PSU)
@timber salmon So I guess a moderately cost savings version?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jR6pRk
will the cpu fan perform the same as the water cooling?
and for the motherboard, whats the difference between x570i and b450i?
PCIe 4.0 is one of the major ones, I believe.
I also dont have an older cpu for b450i to update bios with.
Water would be considerably louder but colder (under load).
https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5135/noctua_nh_l9i_low_profile_cpu_cooler_review/index7.html
New boards should be updated for the newer CPUs, but it's probably not a guarantee.
so for the mobo, do you think its worth around $100 extra for x570i or should I use the b450i?
And for itx, I would rather have the colder temps compared to more silence
It's been 9 months since release. The only way to get old BIOS is from old stock. Which likelyhood depends on seller and whether they do FIFO, but all in all it's very unlikely. Also AMD lends out free CPU kits for you to update BIOS
so there is no real worth about the x570i over the b450i?
Not for (as far as I know) your use case, no
hmm ok. I will buy the b450 instead. in case the bios IS outdated, where can I find these free cpu kits?
That I don't really know the process of. Probs hunt it down on AMDs site or contact AMD support team asking about it
Alright
Where is a good place to buy the mobo from to potentially avoid the outdated bios?
anybody here using an open air chassis with a mini ITX or micro ATX form factor? I'm trying to look for ideas, but the chassis that I like is way too expensive.
a picture of your build will be appreciated.
@timber salmon all the big names like newegg and Amazon should not have outdated bios
also, to add to the whole "bios" question
the b450 itx board, has had support for the 3rd gen of zen cpus since bios version 2301, which was released 2019/05/15
My phanteks p300 says it fits a 280mm rad but today I found out you have to take off the power button for it to fit.
@limber canopy I feel your pain! I just did my new 3900x build in a Fractal Meshify C, and had to do a little "metal cutting" on the front of the case so I could fit a Corsair h115i Pro RGB (280mm) and mount the fans on the outside and rad on the inside - screw holes didn't line up, made new ones. But I got it in and am so happy with the whisper quietness. They said it couldn't be done... LOL! I'll post pix in # build-pix section later. Good luck!
I have the nzxt h500 right now and I’m thinking to upgrade for more airflow any opinions
Corsair Icue 465X RGB Mid-Tower ATX Smart Case, White - CC-9011189-WW https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07WLNSSBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ojHMEbPNRYP1A
I probably should get around to ordering the case I like before it disappears from stock
thats nice
I would say number 2 but that’s just based on airflow
What kind of system are you building because you can get better looking ones and one that have better airflow for cheaper most likely
@scenic lance
Just ping me if I don’t respond
Working on changing out the CPU fan as well from Thermal to regular since the radiator is to bulky. Just want one with good airflow but much more storage space for SSDs and HDs
Ok what’s ur budget and does rgb and color matter
What size atx board u have as well
@scenic lance
Full size board I think. Looking at a full size case.
Already got RGB and what not
Just changing out my case.
Old one has the RGB control from the front fans that caught fire a little
so im moving away from corsair
Ok gotcha
I’ll look at mid tower
I know the p400a is a amazing airflow and great looking one
It’s for 90 and haven’t heard any complaints
You can always get a 710i from nzxt
I tihnk i have a mid tower now. Have my eyes on a full tower if I want to upgrade anything in the future
Ok if you say so
Here’s the best one I know of it’s a little pricey but that’s how much they cost for a full sized
Aight
The CM Trooper/Styker is a decent full tower, but the SE version sacrifice much of their 3.5" drive capacity and air flow options for SSD mounts and a tempered glass door, if those are things you're looking at for a case. Still a bit dated design wise if not.
The Cosmos are going to be comically huge if you're not using a lot of elaborate hardware.
Friends of mine have had both, and those that have the Styker still have them while the one with the Cosmos got rid of it.
Hmm aight
Yeah any of these will be great what’s your budget anyways I need to know if their any
What’s the most easiest case to get to do first water cooled build in
they are all very similar
What would you recommend
Uhh lian li dynamic
Mid tower around 120-130
And works amazing
Look in #build-pics and see water filled builds with case and they all work well
Cooled*
Anyone have a case recomendation for a full atx board, would like something that has a mount for a 2 fan radiator, and a psu shroud and good air flow
Doesnt look like a bad case, amazon doesnt have a solid supply of stock options unfortunately
should i get the corsair 465x black
I’m going to get that soon
Yeah it’s a good case
So um, having trouble finding the right PSU that has a 8+4 CPU connector for the Gigabyte z390 aorus pro mobo :c
Or at least a PSU that has an additional 4-pin ATX connector
Well silly me, found a Corsair one, nevermind
@sleek linden You dont need the additional 4 pin. It's simply a marketing gimmick
for z390
Thought you needed it for overclocking?
Ah wait yes, the extra 4 pin on some mobos is for stupid dummy high overclocking. And since I'm only using an i5-9600k, even WITH some overclocking, prolly still won't need the the additional 4 pin
Something like dry ice OC on 9900k or something. 8 pin supplies 300w of power by ATX spec. No 1151 v3 CPU (8th/9th gen) CPU should take more then that amount without something like dry ice or LN2
Any cases under about $60 with decent cable management and build quality? looking to get a new case for my system and dont really have an idea what might work
fractal design G?
Focus G cable management isn't great, but it works.
@modest parrot The Rosewill's have always done be solid. Actually got my old system in two of the lesser expensive mid-sized ones downstairs. Good price, did the job.. those PC's are for the family to use.. I wasn't getting rid of my old CPU/MB.
Hey all was wondering on thoughts about seasonic m12 II 520 evo edition 520 watt bronze 80+.
I have it in my current build but was thinking about upgrading from a i5 6500 to the ryzen 5 3600 and possibly upgrading my GPU as well and wasnt sure if my PSU would be any good or if that is something that is in dire need of an upgrade.
@drowsy remnant what gpu are you upgrading to?
I need recommendations on a psu please! And possibly a case recommendation! It’s the last two things I need I believe!
That’s what I have so far
@lime fog considering the 5600 XT sapphire pulse, the updated bios one.
Currently have the nvidia geforceGTX 1060 6gb
cool
@lime fog any thoughts on it? I did some reading on it the past few days it seems to be a good card.
And any thoughts on the PSU or of it needs to be changed
@lime fog card or psu?
Will do thank you
Looks like the 5500 is the same as my 1060 just with 2gb more Vram no?
i guess
@dusky oyster Get yourself a better NVMe. This one has a better controller and NAND type
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VXyqqs/silicon-power-a80-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-su001tbp34a80m28ab
isnt much more
considering you're going 3700x I'd assume more workloads then just gaming, to which why I'd point to a pretty good NVMe then a fair okay one
Any good cube case's where I can lay my motherboard flat down that are for sale?
thermaltakes core v21
quick poll: lian li pc-o11 dynamic XL or Corsair 680X?
ive heard very good things about Lian-Li
same here. it's just hard to find the danged thing in stock lol
wondering if it'd be worth waiting for restock
i.e., if anyone here who's recently purchased or upgraded to it would highly recommend
Currently trying to find out what is wrong with my PC. Begins to start just to immediately shut down before it can do anything but was working fine before last shut down which makes me think it's a power supply issue.
Is the paper clip test to check if it's the power supply legitimate?
Normally I would take it in to get it looked at but most places around here are closed for social distancing reasons.
paper clip is to "short" the psu so it starts
@lofty pewter thank you! I’ll switch it out! Although it will mainly just be gaming, maybe streaming down the line but better it better right lol
Okay the paper clip gets the psu fan spinning for like a second but the motherboard has no change. Not sure what the problem is since it was working fine this morning before I switched cases.
Yeah my psu is toast
Hey if I am planning on upgrading from a gtx 950 to a rtx 2070 sometime soon should I look into getting a new PSU. If so which one would y'all rec?
My current PSU is only 400W
hmm lemme see
You getting just a 2070 or a 2070 super?
ill let Yeast handle this
I'm gonna go with the assumption you're just getting a 2070
In my system I have an EVGA 600 GD. It's 80+ gold, has a 5 year warranty, and I love it. It's not the best of quality out there, but it works for me.
Yep that's gonna be my recommendation @lyric coyote EVGA 600 GD
Yeah ok sounds good thanks. My current PSU is EVGA and I’ve had good luck with it
Should i up it if I end up going with the super bc I’m debating between the two rn but if I end up buying a new psu I might just get the normal?
@silver dagger "yEAH, THE 2070 USES 550 WATTS" <- that is 100% false
GD 2019 isn't really that good, aka the newest GD. 2018 was okay-ish. But get yourself a Corsair CX
You could run a 2070 off a 450w, tho most 450w don't have enough PCIe cables
With standard CPU and system, etc
there is a difference from a full system requiring a 450w+ psu and a gpu alone using 550w
VERY big diference
That's y i let other people help him/her, i realize I'm not the best
its just that context is important @silver dagger
and i am not trying to stomp on you mate, just that people have a really bad habit of just copying what they see
Yeah i understand, no problem
Is there anything bigger then the thermaltakes core v21 where I can lay the motherboard flat?
aside from server chassis? not that i can think of as such
well, actually, is the prodigy still in circulation ..
Just flip the case on its side :)
nope, the prodigy M is "normal" in the mainboard tray
@lyric coyote I'd go for Corsair CX series over GD. Isn't missing protections or have a sleeve bearing fan
iirc has higher operating Temp too. May be wrong tho
Is there a case where I don't have to do that lol?
@scenic lance there is the Cooler Master HAF XB Evo
it is NOT pretty
and i must admit, i had completely suppressed the memory of this even being a thing
ye gods, it really isnt pretty
@tender root Thanks 👍. I really don't mind the way it looks I just don't want the CPU cooler pulling on the motherboard
unless you plan on juggling your case, that is not something you have to worry about with a proper cooler
as in: Proper cooler also has a proper mounting system that is actually designed for it
@lofty pewter thanks for the suggestion I’m gonna do some more research but that is good to know!
@lyric coyote PSUs have a lot of stuff to consider. Researching isn't exactly easy. Finding out voltage regulation/ripple, transient response, protections, capacitor quality, fan quality, noise, etc for a beginner is quite hard. So be wary of things you see online.
is it possible to have too powerful of a power supply?
Okay thanks 👍
Any recommendations for cheap RGB strips? Preferably addressable and magnetic? I had an iBuyPower one but I think I just accidently shorted it out.
Looking to get a case under $50 CAD, any recommendations?
@swift portal that’s a hard pick... let me see if there’s anything I can find.
@swift portal I just used the DIYPC DIY-S07-BK for a recent PC flip. It's nice looking but honestly it's a little odd
Top mounted PSU, weird SSD/HDD mounting, but if you can cable manage it good it'll look nice
IDK if it'll be under $50 CAD though. It might cut it close
Thanks, I’ve never built a PC before so I don’t really want to use something too complicated.
Honestly, you gotta look for cases more expensive than that. A case for even $60 CAD won't get you anything good tbh.
Say sike
what
K nvm I can't find the case I like available anywhere
Oh what case do you have
I know it was available at some Japanese site but that doesn't get me much
I just have a Lenovo office computer case lol
Oh, what case do you like then
Thermaltake H18 Versa is cool though
It was a good price and good availability a month or so ago
Oh yeah that's a pretty nice looking thing
And the airflow is 👌
Yeah especially with a mesh front panel like that
My case has bad front panel airflow
If the mesh version of my case was out before I bought the case I have now, I definitely would have gone for it
It would've also brought out the RGB fans on the front
idk maybe I'll still get it once I sell a few more PCs
I wish you could get front panel, side panel, etc. Replacements
Same. I've wished that too often
So if you wanted like an acryllic panel instead of a glass one, you could order the acryllic and be on your merry way
The front panel on my case can't be taken off though, it does something diiferent 😦
:(
I've never heard someone want acrylic over tempered glass 😆
Kinda wish the acryllic H18 side panel still existed
Was it cheaper than the normal one?
I'm not sure, I don't believe I became aware of the case until it was phased out
Dang that's sad
There's an ATX case that has very similar design to the H18
And I can't find it lol
oh no
Here it is
Subtly different, but pretty much the same style
I do kinda want it but my computer is still serving well, so I don't need to make such an upgrade
Well a case upgrade would pretty much be purely for aesthetics
Yeah :p
This board isn't something I would want to put in a nice new case though
If I were to get a new case, I'd prefer build a new system inside it and leave my current one alone
Yeah
You’re build is the e-450 one right?
That’s just a CPU integrated into a board right?
Same with the GPU?
Yep
Different computer tho
My i7-4790 is in a Lenovo H81 chipset board
Nothing special to swap over to a new case for, but still a decent computer
A Lenovo GT 730 
It's surprisingly quite the trooper, but of course not much
I do but I suffer through it 
I didn't even realize that NFS World could actually perform at a good framerate until yesterday when I cranked the graphics way down
Minecraft mostly
Oh sweet I just got off from playing that
I don't have much drive space on my SSD for games, I need to move my Steam installation to a hard drive
Yeah that'd be worthwhile
I bought Assetto Corsa for like 6 dollars recently so I'm excited to play that at some point
ooh
I stopped playing War Thunder a while ago because of so many huge updates lmao
Yeah that's how I feel about Fortnite
Although I guess I don't mind it anymore, but I got bored of Fortnite
Ah
I got a lot of games as freebies, mostly smaller games
One game I'm glad I bought though is Homebrew: Patent Unknown, a game on Steam
The devs are pals 
I want to get a 1650 Super so I can get a performance boost in games
Big upgrade from 384 cores at 900MHz
War thunder is so fun imo @vocal tree
I love WT
I really like playing it
Even just flying around in test flight is fun
I'm not great but sometimes I pull off some cool stuff
Nice, same👀
Which tree did you go down
I think USA
My favorite plane is the A30G I think it's called
The twin engine attacker
Bombing runs are so vroom with that thing
Vroom vroom there and veroom vroom back and I have front guns lol
They have amazing turn rates, amazing guns, and some bombs and rockets
A30g?
I can't check rn
A20G I think
Ah
PBY-5A is a cool plane, not really fun to fly in WT but I love it
I always get shot to bits lol
But it's a bomber
Eh
Il2 might remain my fav aircraft for a long time
It's just so good
It's like 2x 20mm front Cannon and 4x MGs
Also
8 rockets and 4 100kg bombs
100 or 200 I don't remember
20mm 💪
Nice
It has the horses to outrun a lot of luftwaffe fighters lol
The PE3 is bad but IL2 42 and 41...
I just stay high until they notice me, then I retreat while shallow diving, and then I skirt the river canyons
I have a clip from me playing on the il2-1942 today
Got 5 kills onto fighters
Nice
Just out manuvered them
Only downside is it doesn't maintain speed too well through turns
So you slow down the more you dogfight
Until you just kinda stall ish
Side note, thought this was #gaming , but eh
Its here now and I can't change that
Lol
War thunder was made by the people who made world of tanks?
Wait no
Wait
I don’t remember
I
Still a different game @vocal tree .
Yes
Gaijin makes War Thunder
Yes 😛
Wargaming makes all the World of [blank]s
War thunder is all the World of [blank] games together
and more realistic
I guess if better try war thunder then. I’ve always been a WoT fan
Hey has anyone had experience between the rx and cx series Corsair PSU? I’m trying to figure out which one is better mainly in terms of a deal and performance.
Well what wattage and what rating. Personally I would go evga or seasonic
I’m looking at 550 W. I’m not sure what rating I need. I’m not really sure what difference it makes? Why would you go EVGA or seasonic instead?
@rustic sand
Yes my bad
I would definally go RMx between the two.
It's a great PSU, but the pricing might be too high.
I've always had really good service from evga and evga psu have treated me well and always have better pricing. Personally I would go 650 watt
Ok and why is that?
Mikey, remember, 550w can handle 3950x+2080ti.
The more wattage the less stress on a psu and your able to overclock with no issues
Yeah and that 550w psu is heating up
And PSUs can easily handle overload up to about 120% of it's rated wattage.
You always want extra headroom no matter what they last longer
and 3950x 2080ti sits comfortably in 550w.
It's not comforting seeing a psu fully used lol
It still has a load of headroom before problems show up
I mean I got a 850watt g2 in my build so i got all the room in the world to go crazy lol
Once I’m done upgrading I’m going to be running a 2070 with a i7 9700 and the Newegg voltage calculator for what that is worth said it should only take up around 450 watts
650w is fine, but just saying, 550w is more than enough for most people.
I got my 850g2 for $80 brand new on Amazon 🤷 with a 10 year warranty couldn't pass on it
Yeah but gotta include overclocking and other things as wellm
I do
I’m probably not gonna be over clocking
Plus most 550 are bronze and no modular. And if the do it's almost the cost of a 650
what, g3?
G3 has OCP set too high
You need the exact model
also, on overclocking power consumption :
what, 5% increase in power
Wow that EVGA sounds like a better deal than the Corsair
Exactly
Sounds like a better deal, but you need to check everything.
550 watt gold psu that's semi or fully modular is a ripoff for pricing
Yeah but cost almost as much as a 650watt same rating
link me one
because I'm not seeing any
Sorted by lowest price
I don't see a EVGA one at 95$ for 650w.
I seen it on ebay
MWE gold is one tier down from amp
just an example
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 12.4 welcome to the brand new PSU Tier List! Created and maintained by @DatTestBench, @Stefan Payne, @GreatMasterAden, @Juular, @Elisis, @Maurice from Madagascar and @LukeSavenije Last Update: 12-04-2020 Tiering of various units is opinion based off repu...
Yes I know 650w can be had, I'd much rather recommend a Revolution D.F. 650w right now, just because it's a better PSU, but that's out of stock.
So right now, Amp is the best thing I can find.
Still good ratings that's taking it alot further than what most people will look at. Both realiable but for pricing the 650 watt is the best deal
But the whole stock thing is messing up everyone
And increasing prices
i just got a bad boi psu
just got a vultech 
Amp is tier A, MWE Gold is tier B.
Hey guys thanks for the help!
B+ not B, unless it changed @elfin trout
Main difference is the caps. MWE has meh caps so it won't last as long as AMP theoretically
Eh, you tried
anyone know of any nice white cases? Already know about NZXT Cases so I want to see what else is out there.
the white phanteks p400a digital
oh no where did CX 450 go :(
did it go OOS?
Is that a good thing or a bad thing?
a good thing
I couldn't find it through Newegg's own search, I had to use search engine
Oh, you said Frick so idk lol
just like when I search for Intel CPUs on ARK, I always have to use a search engine because their internal search function is screwed
yeah I'm just bein doof


should i get the corsair x570x case or 465x
What
I got an old psu that I wouldn't put in another system. Should I just throw it away or is there another use for it?
if you know that you will tinker with random electronic projects, it might be a powersource for that, but how realistic that is, is entirely on you to decide @golden kestrel
(based on what i have seen so far, i am surprised that the psu isnt in low orbit already)
Lol ok
What would be your recommendation for a budget (but not explosive) psu. Doesnt need to be more than 500w.
cx
happy to hear you are developing mindreading abilities @golden kestrel
next thing that happens is you will notice that you dislike my sarcastic wit
Lol. I don't mind it one bit. I'm rather sarcastic myself when I'm in the position to be so. As you are right now 😉
no really?
Wdym?
me? sarcastic? that would never happen.
it is not as if i have plenty of ammunition to feed the sarcasm reactor here
(i know)
:)
should I go with the corsair rm 750w 80+gold or the rmx 550w 80+gold corssair they are like 10 bucks difference
@half meadow 750w
@half meadow @amber forum RMx 550w. Because better capacitor quality. More wattage =/= better.
Ok im getting mixed answers
550w
so I'm not sure if this goes here but it is about PSUs, mine just went on me last night, really aggressively. It's not even 2 months old, a TT toughpower 80+ gold RGB 850W. I was just playing games with my friends, and all of a sudden, I saw a really bright flash from the PSU and heard a loud pop. I replaced it with my 650W this morning and it still doesn't turn on so I know it took at least the board with it
I filed a claim on thermaltake's site, but what about the rest of my system? what should I do?
cross your fingers really hard and hope that it has ONLY taken the board
yeah that's what I was thinking
something for you to start with is the following:
pull the system down to the absolute minimum
and go from there
also, IF your board has diagnostic leds, use them
issue with that too is that I have a Z170A, it's an old board they don't make anymore, new ones don't exist and I don't really trust a used board
if the new board has diagnostic LEDs?
cause rn, it won't even turn on
not even with the old PSU that I know works
read again please :)
okay, still a little confused lmao
I've never had to deal with this unfortunately haha
you currently have a system that is made from X number of parts
in the rare event that is is NOT the board, but something on it that is acting up.
you want to remove as many things as you can from the board and then start testing with that
follow me so far?
(side note: do you know which specific z170a you have?)
yeah I follow you, it's a Z170A gaming M5 from MSI
2sec
kk
gaming pro?
well that's cool it rejected the link lmao
nah it's not the gaming pro, it's the gaming M5
@teal ferry you cannot post links until you have lvl3 (to prevent link spam by new users)
okay, 2sec then
ahh okay makes sense
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/z170a-gaming-m5.html <- so that one?
yup it's that one