#cases-psu-and-cooling
1 messages · Page 20 of 1
Another thing, is there aq meaniningful difference between ATX 2.x and 3.x?
Okay I read something about it, is 3.x really that important on current gen hardware?
Also working on my parents' computer, is AliExpress the best place to look for a cheaper 8700G? They're $280 from any site that PCPP lists.
What case is it
Darkflash dy470
Do u think removing those is easy ?
Slow down
Darkflash is brand new to the case scene so I'm looking it up for you lmao
like, reviews have only been out for a few months
Wait do i need to fully remove the pump and the cooler itself ?
Not only fans ?
Cause why case matter in this case
You can't reach all the screws holding the fans in without at least lifting the radiator up and out of the case
Shit
That's why
So from what I'm looking at here, it appears there's 2 thumbscrews towards the top, on the back of the case
those hold the top panel on
and then there's 2 more thumbscrews on each side panel holding the sides on
how long ago did they build you the PC
bc honestly this is something where I'd be taking it back to the store
the type of fans that were included with your AIO are called "High static pressure" fans
The original ones that come with ?
A day
So no chance of me doing it ?
if it was literally a day ago
just go back with the computer
tell them you want the original fans on your AIO because they were the high static pressure ones
and if they say they no longer have them, or they threw them out, or something
just say that's fine they can refund you for the retail cost of the fans and you'll go buy them
@bitter sentinel the issue is the case is too big and i have lost the case cartoon so i have no idea how to take this big beast
I was hoping that the fan replacing process is easy so i can take their own fans out and get back my aio fans
I mean you can do it yourself, but this is definitely something they should do for you
for free
it's a lot of work for someone to do on a brand new PC
Yeah but the part of moving this heavy case is hard too
Did they give you warranty on this computer
Yes
because going in and changing parts yourself, when you have no idea how to do it, is an easy way for you to wind up voiding your warranty
carefully
I don't understand why you got rid of the case box immediately
Atleast with the cartoon i had something to grab ob
😂😂 cause it was too hard to open the pc
and get it out
Im an injured gym guy
And definitely the case is wayy to heavy with the parts on
yes
it's gone gone? or it's just in the dumpster for your apartment building
Yeah its gone
😎
My company puts a label directly over the power button on every PC we sell
But in the reality it was the first hour
it says Keep all your packaging
When i reached home
So if someone turned their PC on... they removed the label
but also we do most of our business online, so if someone needs their computer serviced, they need to ship it back to us
Honestly im cooked i might end up asking someone for helping me taking it
I will cover it with a blanket or clothes
Im injured in my right arm because of the gym
Too
This is heavy workout 😅
Basically here's what you need to know:
- The fans that originally came supplied with your AIO were "High static pressure" fans, designed to push air through a radiator more easily. It's a thing, it matters for temperatures and hence for the longevity of the CPU - even if the case has lots of other cooling.
- They need to make this right by swapping out the fans they put onto your AIO with the ones that originally came supplied with the AIO. If they claim to no longer have them, saying they threw them out or got rid of them or whatever, it's very likely one of the employees took them. So just say that's not your problem, you paid for the fans so they're your property.
They offered me a whole new LIQUID
i bought mines for 175$ , and they said they no longer have lian liquid ones
So can you suggest me a good liquid for around 200$ that works fine ryzen 7 9800x3D
I mean the best liquid cooler on the market right now is the Arctic Liquid Freezer III, as far as cooling performance
There are others that cost more but they perform worse
Check this out on @Newegg:ARCTIC ACFRE00184A Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 A-RGB AIO CPU Cooler, Water Cooling 38 mm Radiator, AMD AM5/AM4, Intel LGA1851/1700 (Black) https://www.newegg.com/p/2YM-004H-00079?item=9SIA2W0KER9629
Holy share link
Idk why Newegg mobile app does that
There
They look so bad
Lian li one had the best look
What u think about asus rog strix lc 2 ?
You don't like the look of this?
the ROG Strix is fine I guess. It just doesn't cool as well
I'm a little weird about this, I don't like spending more for a worse product even if it looks nice
strange. it's german engineered but ok
so i am looking to hook my old pc that has a corsair cx550m. I cannot find the cable that goes from the psu to the wall. am i able to get a replace cable or am i out of luck?
the cable that goes from the power supply to the wall is standard
you can get a replacement at basically any electronics store
oh thats great news been 3 years since used that once since build new one.
thank you so much
No worries at all
What u think about nzxt kraken 360
This better or asus one
Is the price difference between a 900W and a 1000W usually much of anything?
There's a jump in price from 850w to 1000-1200w units, but generally the big jump in price is going from 1200w to the 1600w units
Looking to get a PSU right now, assuming it's going to be cheaper, because I'm pretty much going to go all out when Zen 6 and UDNA come out and give my brother my computer, from what I have gathered 1000W would be the better choice over a 850W. Is that likely correct?
It's much more dependent on the unit than anything else, but tbh it's dependent on what the next gen looks like
I'm going based on the transients I could find for the 7900 XTX
Well I thought I had seen 600W
Should get a 850w unit
A good 850W unit can handle most parts. 1,000W is my personal preference for high end systems just for peace of mind.
Does anyone know any softwares to set a fan curve of the motherboards pwn connectors for asus boards? I. Trying to set a curve for my aio coolant or gpu but can only do the cpu from bios
Fancontrol should still work rn
Or I guess it would probably be better to wait?
Power Supply Units aren't the thing that usually require waiting for since their prices hold very steady.
I recommend the Montech Century II 1050W or Enermax Revolution D.F.2 1200W.
Both are under $150
I mean to see what Zen 6 and UDNA will need
If it needs more than 1200 watts your house breaker is going to be an issue.
Yeah
M3 screws are the ones for mounting a motherboard, right? If so, I cannot for the life of me get them to thread in the standoffs in my Fractal Torrent case, they just keep spinning.
For the fractal torrent, you need the 6-32 screws that don't have that little lip like the M3 screws for screwing the motherboard into the standoffs, the M3 screws are for mounting 2.5in drives and some other small bits
Yeah, I found that out when I read the user guide
I got the motherboard, CPU and RAM in the case already
Nice
Has anyone here tried and prehaps succuessfully made a 24/7 sub-ambient pc cooling solution?
Or a ambient cooling solution that keeps the cpu temps at ambient.
I have been trying to learn about TEC and other methods of cooling.
refrigerants
More context please.
.
On a different but related topic, what are the best performing ARGB 140mm fans nowadays?
Something that can perform about the same as a P14 Max is what I am curious about.
hey
my girls pc went off mid restart and wound not turn on. The PSU makes a screeech like noise and there are no signs of life. Thinking a dead psu? Thoughs?
parts list https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3WwpFs
Part List - Intel Core i7-10700, GeForce RTX 3070 Ti, MSI MAG FORGE 100R ATX Mid Tower
no signs of visable damage anywhere
Anything show up on debug LEDs?
I'd assume PSU died then, you can try starting RMA with seasonic
yeah i am. I ordered a tester to check but i think its the psu
i was able to short the psu and fans spin
I want to check the gpu. Is there any risk for plugging in a shorted gpu into a working a 2nd working pc?
Depending on what actually happened, it's unlikely
... water damage
Fans spin and then off or?
There was some moisture on the gpu itself
no, they stay on when shorted
I'd lean a bit more towards potentially something wrong with the mobo then, considering debug LEDs aren't showing you anything
yeah
im gonna try the tester we order on the psu tomorrow. If not, we'll order a new motherboard
I'm testing out Gelid gp ultimate thermal pads and i compared the original one to the fake I got on aliexpress.
since I didn't wanna waste much of the good one, I tested with a hd5450 that uses a spring mechanism cooler + thermal pad on the core. idk if this is a good testing method, you tell me...
fixed fan curve and the fake one idles 2C higher and +7C load.
not sure if this is bad since tdp is just 20w. any way of figuring out what w/mk these might be?
oki. we took out the gpu and was able to post. Dont realy wanna risk it with the gpu in
#build-pics message
@balmy badge looks great! I just wanted to ask how that cpu cooler has been doing with that setup.
I just moved my desk PC back to my Core P3, and coincidentally I'm using the exact same motherboard lol, but with a 3900X. I'm currently using an old cooler master ML360 cooler, but have been considering switching to another one, and I know that's one of the more affordable options out there.
I listed and sold that system locally, so I don't have long term info on it, but I've used quite a few for builds I sold and have never had a complaint @flat lagoon
Iirc I had to replace the fans on that one for arctic p12's due to some fitment issue
Gotcha, good to know. Thank you!
I have to get some good thermal pads for repasting graphics cards. what are the most used thicknesses?
just to determine how much I should get for each: 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3mm
I don't think 0.5 is even used, 2.5 quite uncommon and 3 mostly for backplates
Is there a way for me to use my LT720 AIO for direct die cooling my 9950x3D?
I imagine I'd probably need to lower it somehow but I was wondering if this would work or not.
The plan would be to use the TG Direct Die frame and TG Kryosheet.
.
If it makes a difference the coldplate is a massive rectangle that covers more than the CPU and my current TG Contact frame combined.
@languid topaz thoughts?
The stuff I picked out for the task, open to ideas, tips, etc.
Is there an easy way to definitively tell when your power supply is failing?
I'm pretty sure that's what's happening with my friend, sometimes the crashing is worse than other times, but in the middle of everything, it'll randomly get a kernel power problem
Looking at event log
And it is one of the not so great Corsair bronze PSUs
She has been playing games the last week or so with significantly fewer crashes, but I still think it's the power supply
Kernal Power can be a failing CPU as well. Speaking from experience.
Only way to definitely confirm it is to swap the hardware
Okay
One of my thoughts was that it could have been a 13th or 14th gen that has the microcode problem
It's 11th iirc
No, I'm stupid
It's an R5 5700X
@pallid isle is every thing properly seated including cables?
CPU and PSU would be the most likely for Kernel Power issues.
Not sure, she doesn't exactly know what she's doing and I haven't physically seen it to try that, it is a little uh
jank though
It's not that bad, but she has one of those ASUS AIOs that uses USB-C and it's sideways because the cable doesn't reach otherwise, apparently
the usb-c is for LCDs though.
It looks like it's this AIO
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-240-ARGB-Addressable/dp/B0B16YGZKM
ASUS ROG Strix LC II 240 ARGB White Edition is the perfect solution for RGB enthusiasts and delivers high-performance CPU liquid cooling with clean aesthetics. Featuring a closed-loop design and addressable RGB radiator fans, unleashes the full potential of your unlocked Intel or AMD CPU, while f...
My recommendation is get them to take the time to reseat all the parts properly and to take their time doing it. Hop on a video call and guide them step by step.
Okay
If that doesn't work, get a temporary CPU that you can return within 30 days to confirm if the issue is a faulty processor or otherwise. @pallid isle
I recommend Amazon for this purpose.
Yeah, that would be my go to for that
Thanks
I don't think she trusts herself enough to do any of it, so I'm not sure if I should go over there or what
@fringe granite can I get your thoughts?
it would probably work unless the design like prevents you from over tightening the block at normal height
You think this would be a good budget way to accomplish better temps?
as long as you can get good contact, direct die is gonna run cooler
I dunno if anyone typically uses thermal paste for direct die
I could be wrong tho but usually you'd use liquid metal
which alone can make like a 10-20C difference from my experience
Just weld it :3
I thought about LM but since the AIO wouldn't wrap around the side of the die like the Mycro block from TG I think that'd leak all over.
what can mess you up is like you see how the part that the screws for the block only lets you screw it in so far?
this image is what makes me think it might work.
so if you remove the few mm the IHS gives you, your mounting pressure can be a lot lower
you can get some like M4 or whatever screws fit & make your own essentially
So I would need a custom mounting solution.
I just kinda made it up as I went along
with liquid metal, if it's dripping you likely used too much
you can use conformal compound to create a barrier in case the liquid metal does drip
My idea to avoid any risk is to use the Kryosheet and use conformal coating + maybe kapton tape to insulate the capacitors.
So no risk of spills and no risk of shorting
Do you know what screws AM5 uses for mounting the cooler?
the bottom screws for my mount look like this.
I think I actually used M3. iirc M4 is the biggest you can even fit thru the holes in the PCB for like LN2 pots
I'm pretty confident they're M3
heck somewhere around here is the stock ILM
which iirc attaches to the same backplate that holds coolers in place usually
So I get either a long M3 or M4 screw?
hmm maybe not
I found the ILM
but it only seems to have holes for the ILM parts not like the CPU cooler
the ILM is definitely separate from the mount.
so ig I did use the stock back plate
this is how those M3 screws look in the stock backplate
that's the M3 screw?
ya that's where it comes thru
it looks like yours has some sort of riser?
this is the set of screws I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBOCXHE?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1
Not a picture of my pc but mine does have that round metal nut
my concern would be that you may not get good contact pressure using that nut & double thumb screw
since you can see it basically restricts you from overtightening
which is a nice feature when there's an IHS but prevents you from getting an extra few mm down to get good contact without an IHS
also, depending on the size of the brackets on the coldplate/pump, you might get uncomfortably close to those caps next to the mounting part
the coldplate is larger than my cpu, it covers my entire contact frame.
which is a terrible description trying to say these things
Yeah no worry of touching the caps with the LT720.
ah okay
So it seems the biggest hurdle is mounting pressure.
so it's just about finding a way to either use that silver thumb screw without the black piece so it's lower or using different screws entirely
I don't have the black piece btw
ah okay so all you need is a screw that the nuts that actually mount the cooler can thread onto & enough of a washer behind the board that the screws stay securely in place
btw I'd take the board out to mount the pump or at least use your phone to make sure it looks like it's sitting even
or count the screw turns at least
Just took these pictures.
or get all of them pretty close then just go in an X pattern slowly adding tension. You know what I mean I'm sure you'll be fine haha
it looks like it would clear but if it doesn't, you could always use some cutting pliers to remove a little bit of the metal near it
gotcha.
So I guess we have a plan.
Delid, use insulate the caps on the cpu with conformal + kapton tape, use kryosheet, mount the cooler. if cooler doesn't fit then either shorten the screws or look for a replacement screw.
like if you absolutely had to
Ohhh, hmm I see. yeah metal cutters ought to work
I have a dremel btw
with diamond bits
the screws shouldn't be that hard to cut. just make sure you put a nut on them first then cut so you can kinda fix the threads with the nut by taking it back off
oh ya or cut with dremel so it's nice & straight
I was thinking I can use the diamond bits and just remove it.
Make a nice round corner.
ya that'd be even better so you don't end up with sharp' edges
Sounds like we got a plan.
I usually put a plastic one when it's against the PCB or something then put a metal one on top of the plastic
If the cooler can make contact but lack pressure with the stock bracket
what if I put springs under that top screw?
Wouldn't the springs add additional pressure?
it could as long as the screws can go low enough
like they're not blocked by the design like these I mean
all I have to add is that ggood is more knowledgeable than I am about this topic lol
lol Gary-1 Max-10,000
@languid topaz TG Offset Mount + Adapter to M3 and or M4.
I think this might be the solution to the mounting and would let me center my AIO coldplate over the dies.
"The AM5 Adapter & Offset Mounting Kit also increases CPU cooler mounting compatibility when using the Thermal Grizzly Ryzen 7000 Direct Die Frame. Due to the change in mounting height with Direct Die cooling, the cooler must be mounted lower, which is made possible by the M3 and M4 adapter screws."
I think it was my 280mm liquid freezer 2 that had similar offsets. It worked well on 5900x for the like 3 weeks it was on there
cooled reasonably well
Neat.
My LT720 currently keeps my 9950x3D at about 84-85c in CR23 drawing 300W +/-15W.
Hey all! I need some help! I got a Montech Air 903 air cool case and it came with 3 fans, I wanna replace the 3 stock fans it came with with RGB fans, what fans would be ideal to do so if possible?
Are you going for noise, performance, or a bit of both? Also, what is your budget per fan assuming a 3 fan purchase.
My fans right now are pretty quiet
Best RGB fans right now to my knowledge if price is not of consequence would be Phanteks D30 which you can find in 120 and 140mm at $100 for a 3 pack
Not loud, high performance, excellent rgb imo.
If your on a budget buy a 3 pack of Arctic PWM PST ARGB fans, it's like $50-60 for a 3 pack.
If your on a super tight budget look into Thermalright TL fans.
@bleak holly I got a Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB I use for my CPU. But dont know if they will fit in the place of the other fans
Do you have the Air 903 Base or Air 903 Max?
The Air 903 Max can use 120 or 140mm fans. I recommend buying a 5 pack of Arctic P14 PWM PST ARGB fans. Good performance at a fair price.
Just base
I just double checked, it's the same support and also here, Arctic's P14 Pro ARGB fans are now cheaper and better performing than the ones I mentioned previously. Buy two 3 packs and you will have all the fans your case needs and a spare just incase.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DPX78QJZ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2T6N244WTLWGU&psc=1
Right on
anyone know why my pc is so hot, im running the CoolerMaster MasterLiquid 240L
been about 2 years since I pasted my CPU, used to get 20-30c on idle, not sure if this is because its the summer and im overthinking but its now 50c idle but it doesnt get higher than 60c, im on a 3900x
this is normal right?
oh wow it was signal rgb, im back to my normal temps
maybe thats why I was also bluescreening
I was going to say if you meant 60c under load or gaming then your AIO is doing just fine lol
Has anyone here used ASRock Power supplies? Specifically, the CL-B line. Can't find them on the tier list so I always avoided but just wondering.
The Gs are decent
I wouldn't buy the Bs tho
CL-G is the lowest I'd go
CL-B is pretty close to being a Mark XIV Torpedo
I’ve used two of the PG-850W’s in the past and I LOVE the stock cables on those. Can get lucky and grab them on sale.
What wattage are you looking for
For sure thanks
650-850 I tend to focus more on budget builds so maybe 650-750
what are you trying to use it for? thermalright has a bunch of options that have been more proven
My friend has a small case with a 7900X and the NH-L9x65 he has cannot cool it
What case
It's thermal throttling in eco lol
Need to know clearance of the case to choose the right cooler
He's finding the Amazon link
MILO 12 is the latest installment from SilverStone’s iconic slim and compact MILO series chassis line, which sports a dual-compartment internal body structure as the ML08 and RVZ03, but with adjustments and enhancements to adhere to today’s high-end hardware standards. For accessing the internal ...
In terms of noctua options, this was literally made for that case
https://noctua.at/en/nh-l12sx77
In terms of thermalright options, this is probably going to be slightly worse but more proven
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1DHVJG8
The NH-L12Sx77 is a slightly taller variant of the award-winning NH-L12S, offering improved cooling performance as well as enhanced motherboard and RAM compatibility. With six instead of four heatpipes, it provides additional thermal headroom while maintaining the same default fan setup with the fan installed below the fin stack blowing upwards,...
The L12Sx77 is what I was looking at for a replacement
the L12Sx77 was made for the 77mm clearance of those itx cases, but noctua tax is expensive
Then he saw that thing lol
yeah
if they want to save money, I'd rather go with the more proven thermalright axp-120-x67
if they're fine with spending (significantly) extra money, noctua l12sx77
Alright, thanks
ID COOLING has some good options too. IS-67 and an IS-77 is on The way
I think this is a little more beefy than the axp120
Oh it's a 90mm fan tho
Yeah nvm I think it's just a perspective thing, the small fan makes the cooler look bigger
Yea, only IS67 is available rn, which is more expensive than the AXP120 X67 with the same form factor, we'll have to wait for the IS77 to come out
I was thinking about making a sleeper build since I have a few 90s pc cases I could use. do you recommend spray painting it white on the inside even if I'm going to use mostly black components?
Could someone help me understand, but what is the advantage of using the 600W PCIe 5.0 12V-2x6 Type-4 PSU Power Cable from corsair versus a stock cable adapter that uses 3-4 PCIE cables? Wouldn't it be better to spread it out between more cables?
Don’t use splitter
Mainly fewer points of failure
Any recommendations for a good full size air cooler for a 7600/7500F?
I had the Phantom Spirit SE on the part list for this guy, but it's out of stock where he lives now
And it looks like there are new TR coolers since then
What country?
Italy
Prices look a bit wack but this should work fine
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0DJZBZY7L
Good morning everyone- Im moving out from the US that uses 120V for power to the Phillipines that uses 220V. Do I just need to change the PSU cables or do I need a new PSU?
What PSU do you have? Most are full range, like 110v-240v, and would just need a new cable, but some are only 120v or only 240v etc.
I have the Corsair HX1500i
It's full range
You'll just need a different kettle lead
Thank you Sir!
You're welcome
I mean... fewer isn't always better cough cough 🔥
should i get a Cooler Master MasterWatt 550W or Corsair CX550M 550W (both semi mod) for the same price?
i know theyre not the best but i got good deals on them
Anyone know any good white Aio cpu coolers? It'd be great to keep it below $80, but I don't mind paying more if it's really good
Want a LCD screen or no
It's going to be one of the thermalright options but you can narrow it down a bit more with some preferences
Nah
It'd probably double the price I'm guessing
thermalright have some options near that price point with lcd screens
Does your case fit 360s?
Normal white with argb:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F8BKKJJQ
With a lcd screen:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1JZXJHH
Huh, that is very reasonable
indeed
no way I got sent all the wrong cables from the seller 
Are Thermaltake psus still cheeks
I had 3 that dropped rails
Have they improved their QC
It’d be a tough power gf3
Gf3 or gf a3? The old gf3 is decent, the newer ones aren't great
Rn if you want a psu id only recommend getting montech (in USA and Uk at least) unless you need more than a 1200w psu
any psu for an igpu and some hard drives?
I go down the list on pc part picker and the prices are gigantic
You could use the PSU tier list, filter the wattages and remove whatever is overkill
yeah I should run down the list of whatever's got a price in pcpp again just looking at c tier
Man. I will NEVER put my hands or spend a dollar on an Arctic cooler again. Bought this B Stock unit from them and it appears to be brand new. Absolutely impossible to get mounted to my board. I knew people had a hard time with these things, but obviously I have a lot of systems under my belt. Absolutely hate this design lol.
sometimes, there's a reason why parts that are cosmetically fine end up on b stock lol
Will the scythe wonder tornado be better than the wonder snail for heatsinks because of the larger hub
Should help more with static pressure
I have 7 fans, 3 top, 3 bottom, and 1 back. What would be the best airflow setup? My case is the ap201 so every panel is perphorated
Someone told me to have top and bottom be intake and back as exhaust, but I'm wondering if that's the best setup
If the side panel is mesh/perforated this is likely best
Means both the GPU and cpu get fresh air
I just recently upgraded to a 14700k so I'm tryna figure out ways to keep it cool
running a peerless assassin, which is just barely able to run it at 95
unfortunately that seems like the normal for my cooler
Dual tower thermalright
^
Might try tweaking fan curve to go a little higher rpm
so I want to try and run a dual GPU system with a 7800xt and a 5070 Ti any suggestions for cases that wont cause them to suffocate each other?
plan on getting a new psu as well as im currently running a 650W
this case looks kinda dope - review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-ayZAby_ds
Thermaltake is back in a big way. The View 390 is their best case in a very long time!
Radeon RX 9070 XT AORUS ELITE 16G: https://lihi.cc/RdfeA
AORUS Review Program: https://lihi.cc/aQR1u
Thermaltake View 390 Air - https://geni.us/0a5EE (Amazon)
AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D - https://geni.us/Tqzof (Amazon)
AORUS B850 Elite WiFi 7 - https://geni.us/2b7B...
What's a good, inexpensive 240mm aio cpu cooler that comes with fans
anything from thermalright, take your pick at what aesthetics you want
Also, keep an eye on Arctics page on eBay. You can get their 240mm for 45$ B stock
Was thinking about swapping out my o11 dynamic for a 4000D Frame. Would this be an ideal fan/aio configuration. With the 360mm aio as intake on the back
*found this picture using it for reference
I've heard running fans at a 90° angle like that can cause extra turbulence. Might be worth looking into
If you can, rad should go on the top
I feel like there was a diagram somewhere
One of my fans has been doing something interesting recently, wondered if anyone has thoughts. It happens when the RGB/LEDs are on, and when my computer goes into low power mode where it shuts off all the RGB/monitors, but keeps running processes.
hey yall, so lately my cpu (R7 5800x)_ runs at 90 celcius when gaming. I did replace my thermal paste. I have a msi coreliquid 240R AIO running with the stock fans running at 100% speed. The temp does not run past 91 celcius. The case fans are just cheap Asiahorse fans running at 80 percent speed. Im not sure if its just the cooling of my case fans? Temps are normal averaging around 65 celcius when running on chrome. it also stays at 90 celcius when running Music software Reason 11 and chrome at the same time
these are my temps when playing Zenless zone zero at High Graphics for a good 10 mins
let me know if these temps are normal!
5800x does inherently run hot, but 90c with a 240mm aio is a bit too much, it's likely throttling at 90c. What's the ambient temperature like, and have you checked what the pump is running at?
Also wait the first 240R, or the v2? The first 240R got recalled for gunk buildup a while ago
I got the MSI - MAG CORELIQUID 240R V2. I can check the pump really quick in bios
Temp upstairs is around 65 degrees. I got it on the floor
Try setting the pump to 100% if you haven't already
I assume that's 65f and not 65c?
Is the pump plugged into CPU_Fan or is it plugged into a different header?
Test setting the max of the CPU_Fan curve to something like 70%, sometimes pump being set at full speed adds turbulence that ends up reducing performance
Well I am in the market for a new case. The airline broke my Fractal Torrent case.
I have been debating getting the Havn 420 HS or trying out some more exotic cases like the TT P3 Pro.
Is anyone aware of any pc cases that can fit a 360mm aio, atx motherboard, and ideally fits into the overhead carry-on of a plane?
https://www.amazon.com.mx/egowz-Creativo-computadora-EATX-Aluminum/dp/B0CW61VDBD/ref=sr_1_149? Currently debating purchasing this atx test bench to be used as my pc chasis for a while.
It having to be an ATX board is the roughest part here
Set a negative Curve Optimizer in BIOS (start around -15 all cores) and manually limit PBO to ~120W PPT / 90A TDC / 120A EDC with scalar at x1 — this undervolts the chip and caps power draw without hurting gaming boost clocks, usually dropping temps 5–10 °C while keeping the same in-game performance.
Agreed.
What's your ambient temp and is the aio being obstructed?
What Nebac mentioned above is worth trying. Note, ALL CORE performance may drop a bit.
If I was going to be traveling I don't think I would go for a glass side panel
@wide parrot. my current plan is to purchase this open air frame/test bench, make some wood panels for it, then put it into a small suitcase that I can bring as carry-on.
That could probably work if you're confident in your woodworking skills
The other option could be to break down the PC and reassemble at the destination. That's sort of what I do when I go from school -> home. I have 2 cases, mobos, coolers, and PSUs, and I travel with my gpu/cpu/ram/storage
Granted I'm on am4 and can get away with single tower coolers and 700w PSUs so it wasn't too expensive to snag the extra set
Morning everyone: I replace 1 of my Corsair Fans, but now their no longer lighting up, however all the fans are still spinning. Its the Corsair Link fans. I tried uninstalling Icue, but no luck. Any pointers?
The buttom 3 fans lights up but the rest upwards doesn't. The buttom is directly connected to the iCue hub.
Sounds like the micro USB cable isn't fully plugged in
It'll still get power from the pcie power, just won't do anything with it without micro USB
Only uses the USB cable to link all the fans up to the Corsair Icue Link System HUB.
From the hub to the motherboard
It should be pcie 6 pin and then micro USB to the motherboard
Ill double check connections then
Its all hooked up right
Looks a lil loose on the mobo end, just make sure it's fully in
Its on there
Even removed and plugged it back firmly
Do they show up on icue or no
The HUB shows and the buttom 3 fans along with the LCD Display
Just have to assume either it's broken or it's something software if the hardware is connected correctly
Roger, thank you for trying, really appreciate it.
Hello was wondering if I could get help connecting cables to psu Corsair RMx shift series rm1200x a bit confusing than other cables I have 2 cables labeled cpu and 7 pcie wirh daisy chains and small connectors rest are hdd power and what not quite a few
I have been out of the PC parts world for close to 2 years and I am needing new fans. They must be white. ARGB. Daisy Chainable. Good quality. I need 10 fans.
These are what I currently have, but the bearings have gone out in 2 of them.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fnpzK8/lian-li-st120-6917-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-st120-3w
If anyone has kept up to date on what is best to buck ratio, I'd be appreciative of your recommendation.
thermalright
these are excellent
never overspend on fans
Yep.
Thank you
I think i figured it out. I think my AOI pump is dead
My pc Boggs so much when my pc starts over heating
That's unfortunate. Do you feel any vibration or flow in the pump/block and or tubes when touching them?
Nah, I held them together. No vibration or anything. Just completely warm with no flowing
I have the pump connected to the cpu fan too
I can check rn
Mine for example doesn't work on PWM mode.
I have mine on auto
Try forcing it to either DC then PWM if DC fails.
No luck on both. Tubes have no movement
Ill probably shift on over to a fan cooler instead of an aio pump cooler.
Any reccomendations? Im rocking a Ryzen 7 5600x.
What aio failed you?
Good ones usually last about 5 years.
Mine's been running strong for four years.
Pretty much 24/7/365 at 100% pump speed.
MSI - MAG CORELIQUID 240R V2
I had it in my setup since 2021
This one specifically
Gotcha. A better and cheaper replacement would be some of Thermalright's new AIO's. I have heard very good things about their stealth ones.
You can get a high performance 360mm AIO with 2200rpm fans for $50-60.
I believe they make them in 240mm for about $40. @kind sluice
Hmm. So I found a thermalright aoi but debating whether I should stick to 240 or move onto a 360?
Actually nm. My case doesnt fit a 360
Lol
I was looking at this one
The infinity's are cheaper though lower rpm.
Around 1850rpm. The ice or stealth I forget the name is 2150rpm.
Pumps are the same to my knowledge. Just different fan performances.
Okay ill check thay out
This is the only aoi I can find on Amazon that has fans that go 2000rpm+10%
Gimme a sec, but that's nice if you like ARGB. The stealth one doesn't have it.
If you can fit it, a 280mm is almost as good as a 360
Ahhhh gotcha no worries. Ill check them out
Well it was indeed my stupid AIO pump. Just install the new one and bam, I can operate without overheating ðŸ˜
Iv been working on my pc with 75 - 80 Celsius just by running chrome
Yikes.
What cooler?
are the X5M and X5 good Cases ?
or Lian Li A3 ?
I'm trying to make a Mixro ATX build
would the noctua-nh-d15s air cooler do well in cooling an i9-13900kf
If you want it running at 50C+, probably
wat about i9-14900kf
You should only use an aio with that
No air cooler is equipped to handle the 200W+ heat output
i havent opened the box yet can i still return the cooler back to newegg?
ima return it and buy the aio
i was waiting for my other parts to arrive
360mm deepcool lt720?
Yeah, should work
Great AIO, I own one.
Keeps my 9950x3D around 80c in Cinebench R23 drawing 290w.
It also has a refill port but using it voids warranty.
Thankss
what do u mean voids warranty
im still quite new to pc
i can build it
its just idk abt parts a lot
besides gpu and cpu
A nice perk about the LT720 is that it has a fill port. AIO's even with the best sleeving eventually lose some fluid (takes years), when that happens you can open the fill port and top it up with new coolant, though doing so will void the warranty unless you send it in for a replacement.
but what if I am buying it with have a warranty on it
It comes with warranty, 5 years if I recall.
ohh
I have been using mine for a little over 3 years now I believe.
Fluid is still pretty full, so I haven't bother refilling, note this is with me running the pc 24/7 and having put it through easily more than a hundred hours of intense stress testing heating the fluid up.
oh shit
dang its that good
its on sale rn on canada computers
might have to go cop it in store the tmrw
Thanks for the tips and review
Really do muchly appreciate it! 😄
Also
Anyone know if im supposed to have plugged in both cpu powers
cuz i currently only have 1
its perfectly running fine
on i9-14900kf
NXZT h5 FLOW for 65 USD or Lian li 216 for 95 USD
also
ID-COOLING FROZN A620 PRO SE
or
Thermalmight peerless assasian SE
for like a 7800X3D
Peerless assassin
is Foikin good at all ?
Never heard of them. Their cases look like popular brand’s knockoffs.
Thoughts on this PSU? I plan to downsize to a LianLi A3-mATX case and I want to be able to fit 3x120 on the top, side, and bottom of the case.
Corsair SF1000 (2024) 80 Plus Platinum
https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B0D45RN3KZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AVDBXBAVVSXLQ&th=1
Proporcione a su PC SFF de alto rendimiento la potencia que necesita con una fuente de alimentación SF Series 80 PLUS Platinum SFX de CORSAIR. Compatible con ATX 3.1 y preparada para PCIe 5.1, la serie SF Platinum ofrece una potencia de alto vataje con certificación 80 PLUS Platinum en un formato...
Interesting it seems this new PSU list has it listed as an A+ psu.
If anyone is in the market for a new case, so far this has prolly been my favorite overall this year. ATX, 360 AIO, 5x Reverse Blade Fans, ATX PSU https://www.microcenter.com/product/697004/lian-li-o11-dynamic-mini-v2-flow-tempered-glass-atx-mid-tower-computer-case-black
I’m looking for a lower price preferably under 100 850w power supply for my 3070 graphics card upgrade. Any recommendations?
Montech centruy II 850 Gold
Also Corsair’s refurbished psus
From their official website
@tawny oxide @vestal wharf @subtle lodge
I finally found the perfect case. It's 36 linear inches with all upgrades.
SSUPD Meshroom S V2 with Fan Bracket for +360mm radiators up to 71mm deep and the aluminum feet to raise it.
-
Full ATX motherboard support
-
Room for mounting 2x120mm in front of the board to cool RAM and VRMs
-
up to 360mm or longer radiator if I don't mind it sticking out the top of the fan bracket
-
GPU up to 332mm in length and 63mm deep or 304mm length and pretty much as deep as I want.
Oh nice it can still take 3 slots
About $200 for the case, bracket, and feet then $90 for the PCIE 5.0x16 440mm cable.
No not too bad tho
it can do 4+ slots on the left side deep so long as the gpu's width doesn't get in the way of the motherboard tray
$200 for all of that is really not bad at all
You can save some with a 4.0 riser though
There are itx cases that cost more than $200 with less
Just a case alone
I plan to upgrade to a 5080 after I swap cases. Wouldn't that be a bottleneck?
No because a 4090 doesn’t saturate pcie 3
Interesting. Another question, for Clock generators like bCLK or eCLK overclocking, does PCIe 4.0 vs 5.0 react differently?
That I do not know
But there is a small performance regression when using a 5090 on pcie 3
Crazy it took that long to saturate pcie 3
I am amazed. I assumed since they opted for PCIe 5.0x16 native on 5000 series that there was a reason for it.
https://www.amazon.com/PNY-GeForce-RTXTM-5080-Triple/dp/B0DYRZZJZ1/ref=sr_1_6? I am going to get this GPU as soon as I can. min-maxes what I can fit into the SSUPD Meshroom S V2 and it's compatible with the 5080 Aorus and Astral bios.
Gear up for game-changing experiences with the NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 5080 and AI-powered DLSS 4. Built with NVIDIA Blackwell and equipped with blistering-fast GDDR7 memory, it lets you run the most graphically demanding games and creative applications with stunning fidelity and performance. With N...
Also thank you for this tip. If I find a 400-440mm riser for cheaper I will definitely do that.
Yea 5 risers are like double the price of 4
Seems I can save about $30 going with 4.0 the 440mm 5.0 is $94 vs $80 for the 4.0 at 400mm.
Oh nvm then
I do remember seeing a big difference somewhere else though
But yeah as long as you dont run out of vram, the 4.0 is fine
That’s when pcie 5 matters more
Make sure you set the slot to be pcie 4 in uefi
noted.
?
Please elaborate.
The board can’t tell you are using a 4.0 cable so you’ll get some strange things on the screen
Flickers, maybe no picture
The extra bandwidth from 5.0 helps when it comes to shuffling data between ram and vram
I think I might go with the 5.0 one since I know it will definitely be long enough but more importantly the cables seem a lot more flexible.
Thoughts?
Because it needs to make a 90 degree turn to the left
Yeah the savings aren’t as much as i thought, so if you want you may as well get it
I expected their 4.0 to be cheaper
Big discount
https://www.caseking.de/en/ssupd-riser-flat-ribbon-cable-pcie-4.0-270mm-black/ETSP-032.html
the plan is to get the case, get the gpu, then do a custom parallel waterloop to cool the cpu and ram using a 360x120x45mm rad in the fan bracket and 240mm rad in the rear.
Assuming you have decent intake into the case already, the gpu is probably getting plenty of air
sadage
Unless you plan to use a thin 420mm AIO on the front, get the Montech X5.
Cheaper and better airflow.
most i'll ever use is 360
hmm
i'll
think bout it for a bit
Oh the X5 also supports a 420 up front.
i see
Well, it's iffy. It can fit 3x140mm fans up front but whether or not you can fit a 420 depends on how much longer the AIO's radiator housing is.
Anyways, I am in much favor of the X5.
You will want either M4 or M3 screws that are the length of the fan + an extra couple milimeters to screw into the case.
Zipties 😈
How would that even work
Put the ziptie through the fan and case crew holes
Link multiple together if you need more length
Ah
Exhibit A (2 screws, 2 zipties)
Officially only supports an 80mm fan but I wanted a 120
Exhibit B (one screw, one "normal" ziptie, one mcgyvered ziptie)
And bonus Exhibit C (2 screws)
wanted the 120mm as intake for CPU cooler, but it can't go any further right due to the PSU. The little guy was originally for vrm cooling, now it just blows on the CPU cooler I guess
Might need to do that at some point now lol
At some point I may reverse the setup so the rear fan (exhibit A) intakes into the CPU cooler and then the top fans exhaust.
In theory it would lower cpu temps a bit bc rn the CPU is getting some hot gpu air from a flow-through backplate
But tbh my cpu temps are fine, it hits EDC well before TDC
@mighty girder
I wanted a good RAM fan but didn't have any standoffs for such as mounting solution so I used 4 sets of Zip ties chained together.
beautiful, this outdoes my own work
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJY5LH65 if i put a 92mm noctua or CM sickleflow fan on this cooler later, will it be awesome? I already bought it because i'm only cooling a 65W CPU, but I would like to eventuall transition it to a higher wattage CPU for my dream build - I like the 92mm size a lot, and I think the actual heatsink looks pretty great.
direct contact heatpipes seem to be in line with cooler master's quality
alxso i don't give a shit about noise, it's gonna be behind tempered glass in my new case
i got the CM Q200 2 microATX case, and I am satisfied more than enough with the level of cooling for now, but would love to get more fans at a later date, ideally again noctua or sickleflow.
you know, for an R5 7600X or a core ultra 5 245 or 265 later on.
definitely a K or ideally KF series
@languid topaz @wide parrot @subtle lodge thoughts on doing a custom loop like this? P = pump.
I will use Y fittings to merge the fluid into the radiators then another Y fitting to split the fluid to each pump that then feeds the components.
Main thoughts was on pressure since each D5 pump only does 650L/HR. Other benefit is this allows me to have two pumps with 300mm reservoirs.
I plan to use the Dracaena 65ml D5/Pump Res combo then upgrade the reservoirs to their 300ml ones.
This was my other idea
I plan to use two pumps for three reasons:
- More flow
- More coolant (I will upgrade the Dracaena 65ml D5 PUMP/RES to use 300ml tubes)
- Redundancy incase one of the pumps die during travel when I move the PC as a carry-on in the plane.
@subtle lodge @languid topaz thoughts on the two setups?
do aio's have a limited lifetime ?
can anyone comment on sickleflow vs NS-P14 (the positive pressure Noctuas)
i'll need at least a couple of fans
due to my case only having a basic cooler master exhaust
heat in summers here (eastern WA) are absolutely brutal.
They’re good for about 3-5 years. Some longer.
from my understanding, you're better off either splitting the loops entirely or just going with one. Two pumps in parallel increase head pressure; two pumps in series increase flow rate. If you wanted to do one for GPU & one for CPU & RAM it might make sense but otherwise, it's not really necessary. You start hitting diminishing returns really quickly after a certain point with increased head pressure & flow rate
Hey, glad to see you're alive and kicking.
I have an EK pump that has two pumps in it for redundancy but it's not really necessary. The only thing to worry about is if you use PETG & the pump dies, it'll melt the pipe pretty quick
maan I'm still recovering from the flu & work has been kicking my ass at the same time
sorry for inactivity
I plan to keep the GPU air-cooled for now because I am not sure how much a 240x28 and 360x45 rad can handle. I will be upgrading to a 5080 in the near future.
the motherboard will shutdown if the CPU temp gets out of control in my experience
it slightly depends with fin density & the static pressure of the fans but the difference is pretty minimal
I used to play around with this crap a lot. I had delta fans on an AIO at one point lol
P12 Pro. The 240 is 16fpi, the 360 is 13fpi.
the difference was like 2C which is basically margin of error lol
I plan to use the Dracaena radiators.
honestly, the most effective thing I've ever changed for better cooling is using liquid metal
which people tend to hate but really isn't that scary if you use conformal compound
Higher fpi then Alphacool's rads in the $100 range and cheaper.
I plan to delid my 9950x3D, use the TG Direct Die block, and use TG-Shield to cover the entire PCB around the dies.
Will that make Liquid Metal safe to use?
as safe as it can. I think TG-Shield is TG's conformal compound isn't it?
it's all just clear nail polish lol
it smells exactly like it
ya same thing afik. I use some like MG chemical one. The only reason I know of to choose one over the other is price
which is like nothing anyway lol
How much cheaper is that one?
5ml bottle is gonna run me like $50 after import and shipping.
heck they don't even have it anymore
For the pumps, I thought parallel is better for flow?
they have a 55ml one but it's like $55 which is nuts https://www.amazon.com/419D-55ML-Chemicals-Premium-Acrylic-Conformal/dp/B0FJX5LPR7?
For now to keep costs low I will only use one pump and do the CPU but for redundancy, coolant, and flow I plan to add another pump when I waterblock the RAM.
that's enough for like the next 50 years
How far does 5ml get me?
that's plenty
like you put a tiny bit on a q-tip & that's it
It's the Dracaena D5 Pump/Res rated for 650L/hr, is that decent?
try to use those like spongy q-tips though or the cotton can come off on the regular ones
It was the only reasonably priced D5 i could find.
The TG one I found comes with a brush/eye dropper.
that's fine. On Thermaltake Live, Mike ran like 5 pumps in series & showed that two pumps barely changed temps & more than two had basically no effect at all
Brb like 3-5m.
alr
Not worried about temps but rather flow and coolant capacity since I can't fit a 240 reservoir into the SSUPD Meshroom V2 with the fan bracket addon without doing some black magic which I will show you in a reddit post I found
you could get a reservoir separate from the pump & get a pretty huge one
a lot of aspects are kinda counterintuitive tbh
like I used to think that running like pump>rad>CPU>GPU>RAM>rad>pump would perform worse than like pump>rad>CPU>rad>GPU>RAM>pump since you're going from hot component to hot component but the difference is barely anything
I plan to get the basic D5 Pump/res from Dracaena at 65ml and upgrade it to the 350ml reservoir for $30
I've used a bunch of Dracena fittings & never had an issue but I've never tried their rads or pumps. Ironically, I had an EK pump that was pretty expensive die in less than a year, meanwhile my Barrow pump is my oldest pump (~5 years old now) & still runs fine
as long as the rads aren't aluminum, they should be just fine
I've used Thermaltake, EK, Barrow, Hardware Labs, & PrimoChill rads & none really outperforms any of the others in any meaningful way
Honestly, the only thing I'd suggest is to avoid is PETG pipe if you can. If coolant temps end up higher than like 40C, it can start to deform. When the EK pump died, the pipes in & out of my 12900K's waterblock totally melted. It's kind of a miracle they didn't come out of the fittings
what sucks tho is PETG is by far the easiest to work with
I found EPDM soft tubing from XSPC. 6" for $50
acrylic requires you to heat the heck out of the pipe to bend it & you have to cut it with a hack saw because it will straight up shatter
oh nvm
3/8 ID, 1/2" OD.
EPDM is fantastic
Costs a bloody fortune though.
& basically every soft tubing fitting I've ever used holds so tight you could probably lift the PC with it lol
the TG DeltaMate fittings are super nice imo
From what I read, the Dracaena rads compete with Alphacool's midrange very well. only ones from Alphacool that beat it are like the Monsta which has both more depth and higher fpi is why.
lol I love my Alphacool rad. I have one that fits two 200mm fans on it
The dracaena radiators are copper fins/tubes with brass tanks then a steel case.
hardware labs rads are relatively inexpensive & I'm pretty sure they make Corsair's rads
that's fine. the Steel won't even touch the liquid & brass & copper are functionally the same for galvanic corrosion
One of the reviewers, was running a 350w gpu through their 360x45mm rad with Dracaena fittings and pumps as well. Said their load temps maxed out at 50-55c depending on ambient.
you know how you get watercooling parts for good prices... heck let me find it
Apparently HWlabs either owns or makes the rads for Dracaena if reddit was true.
Performance-PCS.com is a really good source for watercooling parts. Titanrig & even bykski's US store are pretty good too. The best deals are usually on PPCs or on PPC's ebay store https://www.ebay.com/str/ppcsclearance?_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l74602
Performance PC's clearance on watercooling, computer accessories, and more!
Performance-PCs is located in beautiful Palm Bay, FL and has been in the computer and networking business for over 20 years. During this time we have grown to now specialize in the modification of high end computer cases and power supplies, as well as, offering a huge i...
This was the black magic I spoke of.
The guy took the fan bracket from the back of the case and moved it to the front in order to mount more stuff.
that's pretty sick haha
How do they handle warranties and shipping?
iirc they do free shipping once you meet a certain $ threshold but that might be continental US since they're here in FL
Gotcha. I am currently in Playa Del Carmen, Mexico which is close to FL but still a different country.
@languid topaz I am gonna whip up a quick graphic of what I am thinking of doing for version 1 of the loop.
sounds good. If you buy multiple things off their ebay site, I think they can bundle shipping so it's cheaper but you gotta email them afik
they used to accept offers but I don't see any listings that do now
this is a nice pump/res that holds a lot of coolant https://www.performance-pcs.com/products/alphacool-core-200-aurora-d5-vpp-reservoir-acetal-acrylic-with-vpp655-pwm-pump
you're building in the same case as the one on reddit?
Yeah, it's the only case I found that fits full size parts without sacrificing flow or part sizes other than SFX psu.
The specific configuration is the SSUPD Meshroom V2 with the Fan Bracket and Aluminium Riser feet upgrade.
The benefit of this is I can bring it as a carry-on when I fly.
36 linear inches, the airline maxes out at 42.
this one has an option suitcase haha https://thermaltakeusa.com/collections/chassis/products/tr100-future-dusk-mini-tower-chassis-ca-11a-00snnn-00
only fits 1 240 & a 280 tho
The SSUPD V2 with addons fits an ATX board, 3 slot GPU up to 330mm, 240 rad in the back and a 360mm or longer rad up front with the external fan bracket. @languid topaz
since the external fan bracket doesn't have a cap, I can fit a 600mm rad so long as it's only 120mm wide and up to 72mm deep (though then there'd be no space for fans).
granted that'd make it impossible to bring as a carry on but my point remains that it lets me have full size parts while being compact.
understandable
I've only ever done large PC builds. I've been meaning to try SFF someday
I got sick of the airlines breaking my pc parts...
They damaged my PSU and wrecked my fractal torrent case this time around
@languid topaz How much do you think a 240x28mm (16fpi) and 360x45mm (13fpi) rad can cool? Both Copper tubes/fins.
I'd like to eventually have my CPU, GPU (5080 upgrade soon), and ram all looped.
This is what the company SSUPD did for a custom loop in that case. @languid topaz
And what does one do after they die ?
Replace it or contact manufacturer for a new one. higher end AIOs come with 8-10 years warranties.
Mine, the LT720 has a 8 year warranty.
4 years in and going strong.
Yeah, replace or talk to manufacturer like @bleak holly said
In my opinion, I just don’t use AIOs. They have negligible performance overhead, and I don’t like having fluid near my pc lmao
AIO is a must for me since even a low profile cooler still puts more weight and leverage on the socket/board than a AIO block.
Yeah, in some cases they are better for space, but for the average gamer, you won’t need them.
I try to lead newer folks away from AIOs purely due to chances of failure, and mounting may be a little confusing.
@tawny oxide, @languid topaz, @subtle lodge, my soul hurts. After shipping and import, to do a Direct Die cpu loop with:
- Dracaena: 240x28+360x45mm Rad
- Dracaena: Fittings
- Dracaena: D5 Pump/Res + 300mm reservoir upgrade
- XSPC: 3/8 ID, 1/2 OD 6' EPDM tubes
- Tube Cutter
- Pressure Tester
- TG: Mycro Direct Die Pro CPU block
- TG: Delid-Die-Mate
- TG: Conformal Coating
- TG: Liquid Metal
All that is going to run me for about $700-800 USD to get to me in MX. about $250 is all freaking shipping and import.
I’m betting you the reservoir upgrade is one of the bigger prices on there
Naaa I’ll be fine I don’t even need a aio
I’m getting the peerless assassin SE
Good
cheapest actually lmao.
Good cooler
Not heavy
It's a 300mm reservoir sold separately by Dracaena that I can remove the bottom and fit onto the D5 pump/res combo to expand my coolant capacity.
Since it's a reservoir not a pump it doesn't get charged import.
So it enables me to purchase a $60 D5 pump and upgrade it from 65mm res to a 300mm res for $30.
@tawny oxide
oh btw @tawny oxide I decided to replace my PSU then upgrade GPU before replacing the case then do waterloop. Thought you'd appreciate the info.
I want this
We made another one! XXL Warp Core Custom Loop Water Cooled Gaming PC It comes with: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D Mainboard: Gigabyte X870 AORUS Stealth Ice GPU: Asus Prime GeForce RTX 5080 OC Edition Memory: 64GB Crucial Pro DDR5 6400MHz White Storage: 2 x 2TB Samsung 990 EVO Plus m.2 TRYX Panorama CPU Water Block with cu
You needed that PSU replacement before anything
agreed.
That was always first, but I will gonna do case second.
Decided that it's high time I retire my 3070.
It's been in service for 4 four long harsh years now lmao.
My 9060 is just beginning 
Wife’s 5700xt is gonna need retired
It’s getting hot even after a repaste
It's like a rip off tower 900 from TT. I like it.
I assume that's where the 3070 is going yes?
Hopefully
If I can ever afford it

If I ever can do a custom loop, I want to do it in my behemoth. Aka my 2007 cooler master stacker 830
oh my drive bays lmao.
Yeah that is why I am never water cooling
ever
With sff water cooling options are extremely limited anyway
I wish CoolerMaster would re-release this bad boy
you should be able to get the EPDM tubing at like auto parts stores. I'm pretty sure it's what they use for radiator hoses. how much is 6' of it? Grainger has 100' for $136 lol https://www.grainger.com/product/Tubing-EPDM-4CHN5?
Also... weren't you just in Alaska not too long ago?
6` is $50 + import
yes, I snowbirded back to Playa Del Carmen, Mexico. Next trip will be to Irvine, California.
maybe check your local auto store & see if they have it
gotcha.
@languid topaz @subtle lodge I just found out Noctua sells their Direct-Die mounting kit separates from the cooler! This means I can use my AIO as a cheap Direct Die solution.
Also apparently, all I need are 3.5-4mm spacers to do the mount without needing the special bracket
it retails for 5 Euro but it's hard to find so my plan is to have my friend 3D print it since the STL files are free.
montech King 45 pro or montech X5
i want a cooler that looks like Hyper 612 APEX
but cheaper
or a air cooler that looks really clean in the King 45 pro
or
what are the cleanest
air coolers
white
I think the really clean looking thermalright coolers are back but they have this
There's also these but I have no idea if they're any good
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cTV2FT/apnx-ap1-v-763-cfm-cpu-cooler-ap1-5pipe-argb-wh
^only single tower 4 pipes for $30 is really ehhh
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RvcBD3/uphere-ue2tc6-68-cfm-cpu-cooler-ue2tc6
As a cheap Direct Die solution I plan to use washers to lower my LT720 AIO's coldplate to the dies with a TG direct die frame.
For the TiM should I use PTM7950 or Kryosheets? I don't want to use Liquid Metal because of potential welding and spilling. I will be covering the capacitors with kapton tape.
@languid topaz ?
https://www.newegg.com/thermaltake-cl-p147-ca13sw-a-130mm-intel-lga-1150-intel-lga-1151-intel-lga-1155-intel-lga-1156-intel-lga-1200-intel-lga-1700-intel-lga-1851/p/N82E16835106792 i am pretty sure this cooler is the absolute shit
i'm buying one and nobody can discourage me. it's delightfully silly.
Go ahead but it will have poor performance and be loud AF
That heatsink is kinda pathetic compared to even a shite single tower
You are trolling yes?
@languid topaz, @subtle lodge, I found a reddit covering my exact interest in AIO direct die.
https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/1jszj0t/anyone_have_experience_direct_die_cooling_9950x3d/
What I will need is:
-
TG Direct Die V2 Frame
-
TG AM5 Offset Mounting Kit (for lowering the coldplate and maintaining pressure
-
Sandpaper to flatten the AIO's coldplate
-
Kapton Tape or Conformal to cover the capacitors
-
TiM which will be Kryosheets most likely.
Be careful with sanding because you can't reverse a mistake
I was planning on using a 3,000 grit sandpaper on the dinning table's glass counter since I think that should be very flat.
Thoughts and openions?
I can purchase 5k and 7k grit if you think that's still to rough
This is everything I am looking at currently minus Sandpaper.
$200 USD approximately. @subtle lodge
Yeah I am just concerned about flatness
Mirrors are really really flat
Might get some crazy looks but if you can take the mirror out

I thought mirror finish meant smooth? Don't I want a mirror finish?
Changed the list for LM method.
ah yes, a famous quote from my 13600K lol
I've used AIOs for direct die but on 10900K lol
Any tips?
No I meant using a mirror instead of the glass table if you can, because of how flat mirrors are

oh
Should still be good enough tho
Just saying if you can get away with a mirror then try
If not then it should be fine tho
Just splitting hairs here
But if you reasonably can then why not
Thermaltake View 270V2 TG ARGB for 1690 NTD
Or
Montech 45 pro 2990 NTD
Noted.
Now the question is simple.
After a PSU replacement do I delid it or keep saving for a 5080. Hmmm..
I think you should get the 5080 before delidding
You won't gain in game performance with delidding
Fair. I am already pushing this pretty far.
I think I might take your advice on the flying part as well and just disassemble my computer Into the individual parts and bring that as a carry-on rather than a whole case when I fly back to the US.
it is very quiiet, even though I am gaming and my PC is relatively open
temps don't go above 40ish for gaming
it manages to be so quiet because of the sheer size of the fan, which is 130mm
Most fans are 120 so that's not that big
What are you cooling with it?
I used RockItCool's direct die frame & they sent me some shorter screws for my LF2. The only thing that really prevents success is if you have capacitors or other crap mounted on the board near the socket that would prevent you from using the coldplate closer to the board than usual
Mind sending me a link?
Oh wait, is this for the 10900K?
heck this was for 10th gen Intel I dunno if they even still make stuff
I used Thermal Grizzly for AM5
looks like they stopped after 13th gen Intel on their website
This is what I am currently looking at for what I think I need to do Direct Die using my AIO.
The offset kit provides the screws to lower the AIO according to TG and Reddit.
The Liquid Insulating tape is a black goop to insulate the capacitors.
@languid topaz you think I am missing anything?
the liquid tape is cheaper than conformal compound? Looks good otherwise as long as the direct die frame works for your CPU (I had to cut mine but it was V1 lol)
Drastically. $25 vs $60ish. Also this is 250ml vs 5ml.
I figured incase the DD frame did overlap the glue on my CPU, I can use some sand paper to shorten the edge.
IceMan on AliExpress (I dunno if you can get them anywhere else) might be worth checking out
my 12900K is direct die & the coldplate actually substitutes as the IHS
Isn't that the purpose of Direct Die?
I'm not sure if they have an AM5 version but I'm trying to figure it out
To remove the IHS as a middle-man
wth?
ya but usually the coldplate is still separate
Where'd you get that monstrosity.
lol eBay
... well damn.
you screw the block in over it with a gasket
I like that option way more than a separate coldplate.
it's permanently on there lol
Nothing a clothing iron and some fishing string can't undo!
I dunno if you can use it without gluing it on but at least everything that could bork the rest of the system is stuck in there
haha true. I might even be able to break it loose with my delid tool
I just haven't really wanted to
I kinda wanna get another one for benchmarking 13900KS
That's honestly a awesome IHS.
I have the EK direct die for that CPU and it's HORRIBLE
they have a direct die frame https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807424791349.html?
Pretty sure IceMan has a DD RAM block where the water flows through the dimms.
I dunon if they make the IHS replacement for AM5 tho. This is all I've found lol https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805050314139.html?
Oh neat, it's not that expensive either.
Is that Direct Die?
ya tbh the only reason I haven't ordered it before is I don't have an AliExpress account & I figured shipping would take awhile
it says it is in the item name
Whoops I missed it.
lol you had me second guessing it
Do you think the TG Mycro Pro is better?
I like that they have free shipping to MX.
Wondering because that's less than half the cost of TG's Mycro Direct Die.
The Bykski CR-RD1080RC-TK100Â Extreme-performance external radiator delivers extreme heat dissipation, capable of removing up to 4,200 watts of heat for custom liquid cooling loops. With a large fin surface area and optimized core density, it efficiently handles high thermal loads from CPUs and GPUs, helping maintain lo
lmfao.
The newest MORA Copy cat.
probably fits in a server rack
Alphacool has a 4x200mm fan version iirc
it fits 9x140mm
iirc
@languid topaz thank you for sharing the IceMan stuff with me. I just made an AliExpress ACC and saved it to the card.
I think I need to break down & make one myself
When the customer wants a 9060XT 16GB worth of fans
A DD cooled CPU?
Btw I was right, IceMan is the brand that makes Direct Die RAM Blocks.
I use EK of Bykski RAM blocks
I've also had no issues with FreezerMod or whatever it's called tbh
my son's PC has been running 3800c14 2x16gb B-die at like 1.65 DRAM for years now
The listing is kinda deceptive. It actually only includes the RAM waterblock (no modules or rgb thing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082Y6F5QK
but it's also like $30 lol
with a set of something like these, you can have basically everything (obviously not radiators, pump, fans, etc.) for less than $50 https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Heatsink-Replacement-Computer-Cooling/dp/B0CKYRFBZ1/144-6603768-8438750?
the bykski block with two modules is about $75. They don't have the 2-DIMM version of the waterblock anymore (which is the only one I've used) but I've used the modules and they work just fine. https://www.bykski.us/collections/ram-blocks
which is about what Alphacool charges just for the waterblock & their modules are like $30/each
I don't think they even sell the EK ones I have anymore. They were called EK Monarchs iirc
Fair. The Iceman DD RAM which is the whole package is $100.

Coulda saved like 55% by getting be quiet pure wings 3
He could have saved more than that by using the 5x included reverse blades in the case and the included arctic pro fans like I recommended lol. But some people love that Noctua.
I was more surprised they don’t sell these in 2,3, or 5 packs with a slight discount
Lian li goated for including that many fans
If he wanted to swap noctua on a cooler then I get it, but you’ll be running case fans at a low rpm so might as well stick with lian li
They are for sure. And I’d get it if it wasn’t for the fact the stock fans on the LF3 Pro 360 are fantastic lol
What psu do you guys recommend for the 5080 gigabyte wind force I have a 1200 watt psu be quiet pure power but it doesn’t come with enough pcie cables for it
Btw I forgot, my direct die ihs coldplate thing for 12900K is made by SuperCool not Iceman. Apparently they have one for AM5 https://www.supercoolcomputer.com/en/product/49/water-block-direct-die-amd-ryzen-g9
Awesome!
Do you think this will perform the same as a Mycro block from TG?
This is insane lol
Are those vibration pads for case fans?
Yeah. Just all the spares from the 9x fans
Noctua does love making those things lol
Was it also the customers request that the anti vibration bits be installed on the wrong side of the fans?
Each fan comes with the full fan black vibration pad, which is on the mounted side of each and every fan.
They chose the gray for now as the corner pieces on the exposed side.
Ohhhh I see it now lol
I need the silverstone flp02 so bad
it would save me the hassle of cutting up an old IBM to support a liquid cooler
Why not purchase a modern PC case? Any particular reason for one with drive bays?
What are you planning to cool with it?
Im gonna use a 240mm aio for the CPU but I do plan on doing a custom loop some day. The case supports up to a 360 rad
