#How is this looking?
106 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
A lot of people would envy such clean single peaks. Mostly me I am cursed.
How does your belt chart look?
I installed BFIs, swapped from Moons to LDO, and redesigned the stock XY joints to use 5x18mm pins
In y it looks like peak 2 might be your umbilical. Can you post a picture of the front of your printer. And can you print a voron cube as a baseline before we mess with anything please
@fleet flume take a look at the post #1308097646786777108 There is a video about umbilical there
I'll be re routing it when I get home. Thanks!
Good call, looks much better. I've got a new 5015 that doesn't rattle so bad I'll swap in then run the tests again
Is the blue tube with 1.9 ID? Aka Capricorn?
Yes
Thats not good.
It causes too much drag on the filament
We only want 1.9 between extruder and hotend
Spool to extruder should be >=2.5
Highly recommend to replace it as this can cause wrong EM and PA values
Cool. I'll order some
Totally unrelated to your post but thought i should mention it
Also make sure to click on your flag in #rules
Well I'm fighting a clogging issue, too.
Its quite possible the 1.9 is causing it
I'm waiting on a better 4010 to get here too. I did order a new 5015, a GDS time hydraulic bearing. I bought it to replace the Doceng that came on the printer. The GDS time uses quite a bit less current so I'm wondering if I should just leave the DOC eng in there
Sorry to tell u that but hydraulic bearing is totally not what we want
They wear out fast under our conditions
We always want double bearing
The best stealthburner fan is Delta BFB0524HH
Make absolutely sure to buy it from a known good vendor
A lot of fakes around, especially on amazon
I'll get one from filastruder
On the belt comparison. What's the number I'm trying to go for? is 100% achievable? 99+% good?
Chances are you will not get 100%
Your belts are fine
I'm rerunning everything after moving that cable
All your graphs look good.
Peak 2 Indy is likely umbilical
This is with pins on the front idlers, and pins in the XY joints with GE5C Z joints. If any of that matters.
We havent seen a print yet from you
Read through the guidelines and provide what’s mentioned please #1308097646786777108 message
Yea, I'll try to print something after this is done running. In the midst of this post a clogging issue came back that I thought previously was fixed. I'm waiting on parts so I figured I'd line out I could on input shaping.
Please dont print “something”, the guidelines mention whats needed to be printed
Ping me once u solved the clog issue and posted the required things, so we can continue here
I'm using the ADXL on the cartographer, but I have one on the Ebb36 I can use, too. It's a Voron 2.4 350. Unrelated update, but the fix to the clog was that the PO had the wrong thermistor type so everything was about 20*C off.
Use ebb36 adxl please
Confirm via klippy.log that its actually being used
@fleet flume side note: white is horrible for test prints
@true crater naturally, 😄. I assume black is bad, too? Any specific color?
Black is okay.
Getting ready to print a Black cube. Quite the difference in readings from the testing when I disable sweeping.
Petg seems wet so I tossed it in the dryer.
ALso, The EBB36 mount I'm using doesn't seem that solid. I found a remixed version that is more rigid so I'm going to try that out. Is there anything I can do about the umbilical showing up?
Going to have to back burner this yet again. The stupid clog is still happening.
I ran input shaping again after putting in the new fans. I dropped accel down to 4,000 from 5,000.
Sounds good, thanks. What would be the next steps if I wanted to squeeze some more accel out of it?
Monolith gantry + A4T Toolhead
2WD 9mm
Sounds like 4k is about the limit without a major overhaul.
Big printer and heavy toolhead woont move fast
I had some Hiwin rails so I decided to swap them in for XY and used the stock Y rails for backers on top of the Y extrusions. It looks like the shape stayed the same but the power changed. Did I gain anything?
Can you post an updated cube using ei
@tame lavawhat are your thoughts?
@fleet flume I am not seeing resonance per se. What I am seeing on the right hand side of the prints is more PA.
There might be slight woodgraining going on.
In addition, it might be bad speeds (vibrations profile).
I retensioned the belts. and ran everything again before printing that black cube.
run vibrations from 0 to 400 mm/s
I also noticed my outer wall speed is at 60mm\s and that's right as it's about to hit the fan, too.
I did rerun a PA test after the grey cube, dropped it from 0.04578 down to 0.038.
try dropping down to 0.03 with a smooth_time of 0.02
This looks really good. Avoid all peaks in angular speed profile
Looking at that, 60 mm\s should be fine for outer walls so I'll just reprint the same gcode with the PA smooth_time changes.
what PA value
0.03
what size nozzle
I think you need to go to #slicers_and_print_help as the issues you are seeing are more print related than resonance related
The other thing you can try is to switch to EI from mzv
On both X and Y?
Yes, ei on both x and y
Will do. Here's the 120mm/s cube.
Ran out of filament so I'm switching over to grey again. Looks like it was still there though
I think #slicers_and_print_help is the place to go
I'm there, first response was asking about running input shaping, lol
Is this tungsten carbide or Diamondback nozzle?
Gap fill ar 110 mm/s will cause artifacts, it needs to be at 40 mm/s. You can try higher later but I know higher gap fill speeds cause artifacts.
Check bolts that hold toolhead against the rail and all toolhead bolts, including hotend bolts.
That repeating pattern after some corners can be loose toolhead or PA related.
It's a NozzleX. I'll drop the Gap fill speed down to 40mm\s. Tool head feels nice and tight, no play in any of it.
Not ssure if I should start a new thread or revive this one, so if this is the rong thing to do, sorry. A lot of disassembly and reassembly happened during when ended up being an extruder stepper problem. Now that the dust settled from all that, I can't get my belt comparison any better than this. What would cause that spike on Belt B? I haven't done any other input shaping because of this bad graph. Any ideas on where should I start?
If your prints look good for you I would stop and enjoy the printer.
can you post pictures of a test print pleas
I will after the rest of the input shaping. I didn't know if I should proceed with a difference that big between the belts and I didn't want to waste the time\filament so I figured I would check with you guys.