#Voron 2.4 Build Log – Tunisia | Working Within Constraints
2325 messages · Page 3 of 3 (latest)
i tried that once and it said some weird error when doing QGL
so never again
it gets mad when i dont look
heyy i havent named this machine yettt
hmm need to come up with a name
blue cat
on the list def
Mr. Tinkles
He's the evil Russion Blue cat from the movie Cats and Dogs
oh nevermind, he's a persian
XDDD
the russian blue is the assassin cat lol
I mean it would work too lol
quite the opposite bonnets are PURE evil
dont ask me how
just accept it 
you need to focus on finishing your build 

im just really excited how its gonna turn out thats all 😨
excitinggg !! will be waiting on the updates in ur log
WHERE IS MY CEREAL
i prob shouldn't i just uploaded it like 2 hours ago 😭 but i dont see it on the reddit do they need to approve it first before it gets out ?
omg its doing a full bed mesh for a minute print 😭 i really need to setup adaptive mesh
https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/new/
hmm I dont see it either. it should pop up
really it shouldve poped up right away ?
will ask sanity later then
I asked Sanity in back channels 🙂
automod is the the bot message, tbh im not too sure how reddit works
thankss
i just realised i can PRINT hammer head Tnuts XD
i wont but i CAN

We use it for non structural applications in the prusawire
like panel clips perchance ? 👀
You could use them for that but there are other screwless designs
thats so tuff
im gonna use that PROB not sure but prob
anyways got a wedding to attend to see ya
if you view your account on reddit it should show you if you've made any posts. sometimes a post with a video upload attachment just doesnt upload right it seems. If you do see a post, drop me a link and I can try to find why it isnt showing up in the sub
I couldnt find it even in my posts in my profile thats weird ill try to upload again
@dreamy fractal should be there now after the 4th try
Pretty ugly vid with all the tape tbh 😭
i shall turn my gaze upon it
Thank you taco emperor
I have no idea about the lore behind your name btw
it is one of life's little mysteries
It was the first post on my reddit! Hah
Finally after almost a yearr the job is doneee
Congratsszss on your cult membership
Expensive entry 
panel clips first u want me to keep the tape look ? 
then a set of replacements
how much filament does one cost ?
like 2kgs it uses ?
alsooo
@bitter wadi
my serial has 67
why cant i have fusion on linux jeez i gotta open windows now
eh why i cant find the parameters ?
Reminds me. Dont forget to mount your Y endstop https://www.printables.com/model/324787-voron-v24-and-trident-y-endstop-relocation-mod
Also, for panel clips, these are the bees knees
https://www.printables.com/model/574727-voron-quick-panel-clip
Quick easy print and no hardware required
Look at the vid i sent thats what im doing RIGHT NOW 😭😭😭
Ohh thankss will print those
I like yours better. Make sure to share it on printables when you are done
Thanks will def doo
And that is how it looks
The pei texture looks weird in images with flash xD
Also needed to resize it with a some sand paper and i aded abit of tolerance in the design 😝
i looked at the clips u sent and i dont really like em that much i just cant figure out why the parameters for the other clips arent showing
really weird orca just decided to forget all my presets and settings
i had to go to the website log in find them in they're .json format and copy them
I believe I have heard of orca loosing profiles before. I figured that was fixed by now.
like i connected to it on my windows boot cause i have fusion there and when i came back to linux and logged in it was gone
question @uneven canyon
is it normal for bed mesh to some times vary ?
like once 0.18 range other 0.15 others 0.203
It can vary a bit. especially when the printer is brand new. It will settle down and be consistent after you use it for a bit. It can be exaggerated by removing and replacing the print surface
Ahh uh good to know thankss
And about the print surface how do i clean it when i want to clean it and how often should i clean it
clean with just dish soap and water. clean only when you are having adhesion issues.
okk notedd
first time i need to go out and leave it printing 🤞 nothin bad happens
They ended up "fine" ? But all of them have this defect in the same place
Yep, that overhang is pretty notorious for that
so i shouldnt worry too much ?
It'll work fine
then i will move on noice
just read the whole page
hey look who's here welcome
thanks!
ALL of it ? its been a long journey so you reading it all means alot 
well mostly looking at the pictures but yeah
niche
When i was building the V0 i only had the marlin V3 se and no experience with ASA. Plus i destroyed my PEI sheet so was printing on an old bathroom mirror.
So the part´s were so warped that i had to reprint everything like 3 times
and also friend with K1 max printed some of em for me
i would not worry about the functional part´s so much. if it doesn´t break under no pressure its fne
the first batch of the V0 parts had a small layershift and they all separated
the layers were crap
give me smth big to print thennn
i cant think of anything big to print
looks very cool !!
make that like ceiling thingy so they float
Spare parts?
You know what yeah im gonna start a print after a bit
U think i need to reprint the gantry stuff ? I dont think the z drives will break anytime soom
If it is inside the chamber, print spares. Start with TAP, AB drives, and toolhead. Then XY joints, AB idlers, z idlers
got it tap AB toolhead
yeahhhh my parts look 1000 times better than the ones i had someone print for me
Tale as old as time Voron
i came to the conclusion cus i have one of his old print and they broke with medium force on the layer lines but i tried to break one of mine at the layer lines and the plastic bent not broke after EXTREME force
Yep, my original V0 parts were printed on my ender. The parts for my v2 were much nicer, and the parts both print now are miles better than the v2 could print from the start
it will always progress with time !
first actuall long print 9hrs done !
my only visible issue with my prints are overhangs i feel
Time to start increasing cooling or slowing down for the overhangs 🙂
i got a pic when it was mid way doing it
Is ther a way to calibrate that ?
bump up cooling 25% the next time you print and see if you like it better
the overhangs at the bottom of the voron cube or some other overhang test
Also make sure for your perimeters, you are doing inside first. Not sure what that is in orca though
It was something like 85% fan speed on over hangs and i think it starts using that at 25°
is it just me or does that look more like warping? the overhang in the midle there looks fine
I have that on inside first yeah
Nuh uh
Other side
Looks pretty flat to me
it does seem like you need more cooling in some other spots here tho
Even small parts with over hangs have it
oh it is pretty flat.. oke maybe the corner/part curled up because of not enough cooling 
Yeah should be the cooling part
Gotta add it in config now
Also did under z and i added chamber thermistor
you did all that but not z-umbilical 
sadly i dont have like the mesh thing that unravels yk ? i have the kind where its like a tube
oh rip
eh how do i add the chamber therm to my config 🙂
[temperature_sensor chamberRear]
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PA7
min_temp: -40
max_temp: 100
[temperature_sensor chamberTool1]
sensor_type:MAX31865
sensor_pin: EBB1: PA4
spi_bus: spi1
rtd_nominal_r: 100
rtd_reference_r: 430
rtd_num_of_wires: 2
something like that, 2nd one is for the MAX chip on the EBB
make sure you set your dip switches correctly on it for whichever thermistro u do
i dont have a MAX chip
and the thermistor i got i dont think its working 🙂
it reading 6000 degrees
what kind of thermistor?
u can measure the resistance with a multimeter and see if it makes sense
likely you have the wrong sensor_type
its advertised as Thermistance 100K pour imprimante 3D Creality K1 et K1 Max but my multimeter is with a friend so when i get it i will messure it
could be yeah
i dont even want a chamber thermistor that bad 
But you need it 
i dont
ill just settle with 5 min soak after i heat soak it myself till thermistor on hotend says 50
also i think in the near future i wanna do a pico mmu
if you want to print abs you need it
huh ? im printing abs just fine now no ?
Was the pull-up on the board different causing the strange temp reading?
elaborate i dont understand 🙂
low chamber temp makes weaker parts
ahh yeah for sure but i would guess if i dont mind waiting the time and doing the soaking on my own then its fine ? and whats LOW is 60 chamber okay ?
cause 60 is about what my nozzle gets to after i manually soak it and wait the 5 min is print start
A voltage divider is created between the pull of resistor and the thermistor. If one of the values is wrong the results in temperature not math out correctly.
and where do i change that value ?
What value is on the board?
im very sorry but idk where to look for that 😭
where exactly can i see my current value
ahh uh
this ?
i am using th3
i have no jumper on board
and btw the bed thernmistor that is on TH1 works just fine
been stuck at hotend 150 for a while now
i tried to do PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=245
and saved it and still same
i rebooted and it is fine 
Phone stand for the dad 

i have a feeling my 4010 fans are TRASH
i think we have a slight issue with the toolhead board
I have to resolder them i guess
I hope non of the small caps or resistors get out
Which port is that and what were you using it for?
its a fan port it was for the part cooling
I’d worry that the pcb pads had ripped off. Can you take a few still photos
So it is critical
i think so
hold on
is it done for ?
It’s dead Jim
The pcb pads have been ripped off the pcb, probably by forcing the plug into the socket at the wrong angle or similar.
It is in theory repairable but you’d need to have access to micro soldering equipment and the experience to use it.
ugh
well this sucks
so my options repair it or just do all wires back to main board
@rocky ember what's the ability of getting custom made pcbs
i can max 2 layers
Cause you could use the xol toolhead board
Not sure how many layers it needs
And it uses that large crip that you struggled with
also i cant source those crimps
i could run two wires back to the main board just for the part cooling no ?
@bitter wadi
can i ?
its certainly an option if you have some appropriate wire and can manage the extra mess properly
than ill do that for now
Not the best nor is it the prettiest ut it works
Also weirdly this might be a good thing the fans are much faster now 😭
Double check the voltage settings are correct and you’re not going to kill your fans too
It shouldn't be faster for sure
They are 24v fans and the board with no jumper is 24
Maybe because the port on the ebb was not teally that good it had more resistance? Or does it not work like that
Could be a poor connection earlier 🤔
Yes i think so cause from the START that port was wobly AF
I wonder if btt would send you a replacement then since it was defective 
hahahahahaha. hahahahahahaha... Sorry.
I am pretty sure they would do it if there were a way for them to import it easily.
Should i ask 
"yes pls send my rma to Antarctica" they might just do it!
But it was sent to my uncle XD and it was from a store called zen 3d it had the least shipment time
If nothing else it could get one queued up for his next visit.
Which, it might be a good idea to save up some and plan a shopping list of some common things like JST connectors, microfits, etc. and try to bulk purchase
Hmmm yes sounds like a really good plan gather all the stuff i would need like replacement maybe even another control board aswell
I mean i will try to contact btt 
also my dad loved the phone stand
its nice to print smth for people
first thing he said after he used it abit "hey how much did this cost you" XD typical dad thing to ask
also big thing on the list will be a better hotend
Once you get a replacement, it could be worth attempting to repair this one as it may just need some wire added.
Or just keeping using it as you are.👍
if i get a replacement ill even try sending it to a repair shop but for now as it is im happy that it functions
Exactly. A working printer is a working printer.
note to myself if smth is designed to be printed in pla just YOLO ing it and printing it in ABS wont work
im fantastic thanks almost done with my first spool
althought im tryng to figure out how to stop these weird overhangs will prob ping abunch of you people tmrw for help 
if its slicer stuff, may i sugest you look at #slicers_and_print_help
ofc will be the first place i go to
I transferred the printer to a spare room we have and its like its asking me to do an exhaust system for it
Also im really pissed with the reliability of my can cable
Im seriously thinkin of either removing the toolhead board or unsoldering the main connector for smth else
i can get it to start print but i have to redo it every time it gives an error cause of the cable
a LOAD of zip ties are helping
yup thats it
im gonna go fully wired or figure a solution
Is this one you made?
the hole in the wall ?
or the cable
if the cable yeah
What's the restart method in the MCU defination?
but sadly i cant find any microfit connectors localy 🙂
Any more details or photos of construction of the cable?
i cant right now cause its all in hotglue mess that worked for some time
didnt really work but it wasnt this bad
i think its the crimping ? cause when i push the cable in more it works but when i let go and it goes to home or when it prints i think the vibrate loose or smth
Yeah. That sounds fixable without making a new harness possibly.
with new crimps no ?
but the thing is the small metal thingies i dont have anymore of them
The other thing I would do would be to make a strain relief to take the movement off the wires (add a loop in the cable to de-stress).
hmm that does sound like a viable option i will try this first thing tmrw cause today im super frustrated with it 🙂 you know how it is
ah uh very neet way to do it
@radiant drift friend i think a simple loop fixed it
Not 100% sure yet
But its promising
Yeah, then you have more area to disturb the force that goes through the strain relief.
And to test it but not in a print i did a speed test so it will mimick some of the vibrations and movement of when its printing and its good so far
🤞🏻 it stays like that
The toolhead board didnt kill a print but the STEG decided well lets cut the power off
it sure does suck to live in tunisia but a whole year of college costs 25$ XD
i ordered new 4010 fans to see if maybe they have better cooling than these trash ones i have and also got 5015 so if they arent i look into a 5015 toolhead
