#Voron 2.4 Build Log – Tunisia | Working Within Constraints
1155 messages · Page 2 of 2 (latest)
i mean i can it will cost quite abit but i can
it might be worth it once you have the machine moving
also, whats your plan for keeping the cb1/2 cool?
but i have a question when the ups takes over can i like um tell klipper to pause and when power comes back to resume ? cause the black outs are like 30 mins minimum
so the downside with klipper is that when the klipper is killed, the print dies
it has the heatsink on it and with the like 4 fans in the skirts would it not be fine ? if not ill add a fan over it
oh so when the ups takes over it cant save where it is on the print ?
you should be fine unless you start getting to 40c ambiaent
then you might run into problems
lol the weather is 41C
so as long as the CB, manta and the ebb have power, you will be fine. if you loose power, your print will die
yikes
um lets say i dont use the EBB just a thought does the other stuff support RRF
not seeing manta compatibility
so i guess its not really an option
well i got a gasoline generator 😭
but that wont work cause it will already be shut down
Hence the ups
will look into a good UPS with a good runtime when its working 👍
If you connect a UPS to a server like home assistant, you could send a pause command when the UPS is on battery, turn off the hotend but I’d be tempted to keep the bed warm as otherwise you could still potentially loose the print if the parts detach from the bed. Motors will need to stay engaged as well.
@uneven canyon i saw some people use some sort of idk what it is silicone or what to secure the flex heater do i need that or can i do without it ? if so what is that just silicone ?
High temperature RTV is commonly used
The heaters usually come with adhesive sheet. Sealing the edges with RTV is very common
is this it ?
so i should use it then ok
yup to that i should use it or yup to yes that is the correct product
Yes correct product and I believe it should be used
YIPPIE first time its actually the right product when i try to find smth
bruh the site doesnt do delivery why tf are u an online store then
https://www.technoquip-tn.com/shop/silicone-haute-temperature-rtv-58811#attribute_values=24142,25925
@uneven canyon i found these other two
Those should be fine. Red high temp is your search criteria
ohh so not specific one cool that makes it much easier
Yeh the high temp ones are usually red
interesting the panels guy just ghosted me XD

meh idc really like i havent even paid him yet so i dont get why XD
@uneven canyon @bitter wadi for the panels some weird like adhesive thing is used for squish how big is that
Foam tape. 3mm thick, 5mm wide adhesive on one side only
We are so back 🤙🏻
@uneven canyon im gonna clean it and apply magnetic first than do heater let it rest on some weight and tomorrow when the gasket sealant arrive do that thats good plan ?
All the stock of 6x3mm
Yep, magnet first since it is flat
15 minutes is more than enough.
OH
The alu plate is slightly bigger than 350 so the magnet is slightly not covering it all but the aound is satisfying
time to do the heater now wish me luck
Done gonna put the wood and the weight on it now 😝
@uneven canyon how long do i leave this one like this
Ldo rails feel way different than cheap ahh rails i have 😭
Listen, you can always upgrade
For sure
These screws
yeah i know but it said to leave 2.5mm im asking from what end look at the arrows in my pic
um @uneven canyon remember those belt clips ? in the like toolhead i tried to use the m3 screw but there is nowhere to make thread its loose
from the head of the screw.
I believe there should be a heatset insert on the back? Let me look at the tap manual real quick
oh that would make sense
but the manual i have doesnt have these like clips has where to insert belts so i didnt find it
Oh... no belt clips this is stock tap. The belts are held in place when the assembly is tightened to the carriage.
uh what that mean ?
it means you feed the belts through from the back like in this picture. then when you have them with light tension, you screw the assembly to the linear rail carriage
That's not the one i have
I dont have the extra place where belts go to from the feont
ok. let me dig up old manuals
thanks
YOu need to install two hex nuts here
NP
bruh a m3x8 bhcs wont go in but a SHCS m3x8 will imma use that
ahnd see if i run into an issue with it
You may... we will see 🙂
start with single magnet for now. You can always change it later
oh okay its just i thought ldo gave me 4 cause they rec that but ill do one
They give you both the screws and the magnets so you can choose. using 4 magnets increases the actuation force required. No reason to do that yet.
it is supposed to be very light. YOu have to remember that you will have the entire weight of the toolhead on there as well.
its not light pulling its actually 0 pulling like it stays on top do i keep it like that ?
When you follow the guide, there will be a section on adjusting the magnets. make sure that you installed the magnetic screws BTW
hmmm will go look into the guide again i guess
are the flathead screws you installed magnetic?
yeah but i guess when i install the toolhead i will figure out what to do
If they are magnetic, I would continue on with the guide. There is going to be a point where you are going to release the magnets to seat properly against the screws. Yes, it should feel like almost zero resistance.
There is. it is called PUG. The other option is to remove the connector on the other end so you can feed it through. It does require you to recrimp the connector when done though.
does it need to be printed in tpu or smth soft ?
TPU is common for them. I have also seen ABS.
abs would work ??
wont it break or smth ?
Yep. it will be fine. Is the connector already on the other side so you can't fit it through?
uh wdym on what side ?
i still havent ran anything from the toolhead to the main board if thats what u are asking
the cable that goes through there, should have the connecter off the other side so you can feed the cable through that gland
ahh okk then i wont crimp anything until i print that
do u happen to know any good "pug" that i can print in abslike a link for a stl
You can feed the cable through the gland that you have? no need to print anythign though.
i dont have a gland
Ahhhh.
the spiraly thingy
thats not your pic. 🙂
yeah. once you have the machine running, we can work to get those done
nooo if i had it why would i ask is there a printed version XD
so i dont need that pug or gland thingy for now ?
Nah, you can just zip tie it in place for a print or two.
sick
gonna print this for Y enstop
i have that place where he screwed it in
@uneven canyon this one good or do i look for smth else ?
As long as your umbilical is going to go up and out of the exhaust, that is as good a location as any
yeahhhh thats also smth i wanted to ask u think from the exhauset better or from there in the cable chain >
exhaust.
okk will look for the exhaust thingy then to also print
thanks
@uneven canyon do i need to reflash my main board to use the toolhead board ?
Which toolhead board are you using?
generally no though
EBB36 1.2
did it come with a U2C board?
no im using the can port on my M8P v2
Yeah. I have no clue how those work. I would suggest asking in #can_and_usb_toolhead_boards. the CAN geeks hang out there
shiiii i have to reflash it all jeez
next time i say i want a toolhead board please hit me @uneven canyon
The one thing u guys hate about my build i fixed 
But ugh the gasket sealent is no where to be found i guess will be delivered tmrw or smth
You could always try printing out of tpu
Huh?
Print gasket sealent for the heated bed out of tpu ? 😭 I think u replied to smth wrong
Ohh
Yeah thats not gonna work


I love magnets
magic
Hate is a strong word. I had long term reliability concerns with the steel core belt. You would have been able to make parts but for how long was the question.
now we wont have to worry 👍
i just figured this out
belt black DOES NOT mean belt in fiberglass core 😭
i guess when shitty steel core belt breaks i can replace it with another shitty one 😭
Is this the z belt?
yeah
im not that sad cause its on z which is way better than if it wouldve been on AB
On Z I wouldn't worry about it. Just have spares