Voron 2.4 Build Log – Tunisia | Working Within Constraints

[bitter wadi]

If you can get one

[rocky ember]

i mean i can it will cost quite abit but i can

[bitter wadi]

it might be worth it once you have the machine moving

also, whats your plan for keeping the cb1/2 cool?

[rocky ember]

but i have a question when the ups takes over can i like um tell klipper to pause and when power comes back to resume ? cause the black outs are like 30 mins minimum

[bitter wadi]

so the downside with klipper is that when the klipper is killed, the print dies

[rocky ember]

it has the heatsink on it and with the like 4 fans in the skirts would it not be fine ? if not ill add a fan over it

[rocky ember]

oh so when the ups takes over it cant save where it is on the print ?

[bitter wadi]

you should be fine unless you start getting to 40c ambiaent

then you might run into problems

[rocky ember]

lol the weather is 41C

[bitter wadi]

so as long as the CB, manta and the ebb have power, you will be fine. if you loose power, your print will die

[rocky ember]

yikes

um lets say i dont use the EBB just a thought does the other stuff support RRF

[bitter wadi]

not seeing manta compatibility

[rocky ember]

so i guess its not really an option

[bitter wadi]

yup

darn

well we tried

[rocky ember]

well i got a gasoline generator 😭

but that wont work cause it will already be shut down

[bitter wadi]

Hence the ups

[rocky ember]

will look into a good UPS with a good runtime when its working 👍

[rocky ember]

@bitter wadi been with no lights since 12:30 😝

45mins no lights yay

[radiant drift]

If you connect a UPS to a server like home assistant, you could send a pause command when the UPS is on battery, turn off the hotend but I’d be tempted to keep the bed warm as otherwise you could still potentially loose the print if the parts detach from the bed. Motors will need to stay engaged as well.

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon i saw some people use some sort of idk what it is silicone or what to secure the flex heater do i need that or can i do without it ? if so what is that just silicone ?

[uneven canyon]

High temperature RTV is commonly used

The heaters usually come with adhesive sheet. Sealing the edges with RTV is very common

[rocky ember]

https://sea.com.tn/entretien-auto/rtv-silicone-haute-temp-ss-2400.html

is this it ?

[rocky ember]

so i should use it then ok

[uneven canyon]

Yup

Apply it outdoors, or a place with good ventilation. It smells horrible

[rocky ember]

yup to that i should use it or yup to yes that is the correct product

[uneven canyon]

Yes correct product and I believe it should be used

[rocky ember]

YIPPIE first time its actually the right product when i try to find smth

[rocky ember]

bruh the site doesnt do delivery why tf are u an online store then

https://www.technoquip-tn.com/shop/silicone-haute-temperature-rtv-58811#attribute_values=24142,25925

https://www.ceg.tn/silicone/tube-silicone-haute-temperature-ht300-1164.html

@uneven canyon i found these other two

[uneven canyon]

Those should be fine. Red high temp is your search criteria

[rocky ember]

ohh so not specific one cool that makes it much easier

[uneven canyon]

Yeh the high temp ones are usually red

[rocky ember]

interesting the panels guy just ghosted me XD

[bitter wadi]

[rocky ember]

meh idc really like i havent even paid him yet so i dont get why XD

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon @bitter wadi for the panels some weird like adhesive thing is used for squish how big is that

[uneven canyon]

Foam tape. 3mm thick, 5mm wide adhesive on one side only

[rocky ember]

We are so back 🤙🏻

@uneven canyon im gonna clean it and apply magnetic first than do heater let it rest on some weight and tomorrow when the gasket sealant arrive do that thats good plan ?

All the stock of 6x3mm

[uneven canyon]

Yep, magnet first since it is flat

[rocky ember]

How long do i leave it like dis

This is the setup after i applied the magnet 😭

[uneven canyon]

15 minutes is more than enough.

[rocky ember]

OH

The alu plate is slightly bigger than 350 so the magnet is slightly not covering it all but the aound is satisfying

time to do the heater now wish me luck

[rocky ember]

Done gonna put the wood and the weight on it now 😝

@uneven canyon how long do i leave this one like this

[rocky ember]

Ldo rails feel way different than cheap ahh rails i have 😭

[rocky ember]

Feom where do i leave 2.5 mm ?

[bitter wadi]

Listen, you can always upgrade

[rocky ember]

For sure

[uneven canyon]

These screws

[rocky ember]

yeah i know but it said to leave 2.5mm im asking from what end look at the arrows in my pic

[rocky ember]

um @uneven canyon remember those belt clips ? in the like toolhead i tried to use the m3 screw but there is nowhere to make thread its loose

[uneven canyon]

from the head of the screw.

[uneven canyon]

I believe there should be a heatset insert on the back? Let me look at the tap manual real quick

[rocky ember]

oh that would make sense

but the manual i have doesnt have these like clips has where to insert belts so i didnt find it

[uneven canyon]

Oh... no belt clips this is stock tap. The belts are held in place when the assembly is tightened to the carriage.

[rocky ember]

uh what that mean ?

[uneven canyon]

it means you feed the belts through from the back like in this picture. then when you have them with light tension, you screw the assembly to the linear rail carriage

[rocky ember]

That's not the one i have

I dont have the extra place where belts go to from the feont

[uneven canyon]

ok. let me dig up old manuals

[rocky ember]

thanks

[uneven canyon]

YOu need to install two hex nuts here

[rocky ember]

Yayy

Thanks

[uneven canyon]

NP

[rocky ember]

bruh a m3x8 bhcs wont go in but a SHCS m3x8 will imma use that

ahnd see if i run into an issue with it

[uneven canyon]

You may... we will see 🙂

[rocky ember]

SHCS will NOT work

@uneven canyon btw i should do double magnet right ?

[uneven canyon]

start with single magnet for now. You can always change it later

[rocky ember]

oh okay its just i thought ldo gave me 4 cause they rec that but ill do one

[uneven canyon]

They give you both the screws and the magnets so you can choose. using 4 magnets increases the actuation force required. No reason to do that yet.

[rocky ember]

holy moly

with one magnet and screw its 0 pulling force when i like lift it

[uneven canyon]

it is supposed to be very light. YOu have to remember that you will have the entire weight of the toolhead on there as well.

[rocky ember]

its not light pulling its actually 0 pulling like it stays on top do i keep it like that ?

[uneven canyon]

When you follow the guide, there will be a section on adjusting the magnets. make sure that you installed the magnetic screws BTW

[rocky ember]

hmmm will go look into the guide again i guess

[uneven canyon]

are the flathead screws you installed magnetic?

[rocky ember]

yeah but i guess when i install the toolhead i will figure out what to do

[uneven canyon]

If they are magnetic, I would continue on with the guide. There is going to be a point where you are going to release the magnets to seat properly against the screws. Yes, it should feel like almost zero resistance.

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon is there a printed version of this ? if not whats the alternative

[uneven canyon]

There is. it is called PUG. The other option is to remove the connector on the other end so you can feed it through. It does require you to recrimp the connector when done though.

[rocky ember]

does it need to be printed in tpu or smth soft ?

[uneven canyon]

TPU is common for them. I have also seen ABS.

[rocky ember]

abs would work ??

wont it break or smth ?

[uneven canyon]

Yep. it will be fine. Is the connector already on the other side so you can't fit it through?

[rocky ember]

uh wdym on what side ?

i still havent ran anything from the toolhead to the main board if thats what u are asking

[uneven canyon]

the cable that goes through there, should have the connecter off the other side so you can feed the cable through that gland

[rocky ember]

ahh okk then i wont crimp anything until i print that

do u happen to know any good "pug" that i can print in abslike a link for a stl

[uneven canyon]

You can feed the cable through the gland that you have? no need to print anythign though.

[rocky ember]

i dont have a gland

[uneven canyon]

Ahhhh.

[rocky ember]

the spiraly thingy

[uneven canyon]

thats not your pic. 🙂

yeah. once you have the machine running, we can work to get those done

[rocky ember]

nooo if i had it why would i ask is there a printed version XD

[rocky ember]

so i dont need that pug or gland thingy for now ?

[uneven canyon]

Nah, you can just zip tie it in place for a print or two.

[rocky ember]

sick

https://www.printables.com/model/838596-voron-24-y-endstop-switch-holder/files

gonna print this for Y enstop

i have that place where he screwed it in

[uneven canyon]

Here is the PUG https://www.printables.com/model/378567-pug-parametric-umbilical-gland

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon this one good or do i look for smth else ?

[uneven canyon]

As long as your umbilical is going to go up and out of the exhaust, that is as good a location as any

[rocky ember]

yeahhhh thats also smth i wanted to ask u think from the exhauset better or from there in the cable chain >

[uneven canyon]

exhaust.

[rocky ember]

okk will look for the exhaust thingy then to also print

[uneven canyon]

https://www.printables.com/model/1162435-voron-exhaust-cover-with-pug-and-ptfe-passthrough

[rocky ember]

thanks

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon do i need to reflash my main board to use the toolhead board ?

[uneven canyon]

Which toolhead board are you using?

generally no though

[rocky ember]

EBB36 1.2

[uneven canyon]

did it come with a U2C board?

[rocky ember]

no im using the can port on my M8P v2

[uneven canyon]

Yeah. I have no clue how those work. I would suggest asking in #can_and_usb_toolhead_boards. the CAN geeks hang out there

[rocky ember]

shiiii i have to reflash it all jeez

[rocky ember]

next time i say i want a toolhead board please hit me @uneven canyon

[rocky ember]

The one thing u guys hate about my build i fixed

But ugh the gasket sealent is no where to be found i guess will be delivered tmrw or smth

[bitter wadi]

You could always try printing out of tpu

[rocky ember]

Huh?

Print gasket sealent for the heated bed out of tpu ? 😭 I think u replied to smth wrong

[bitter wadi]

Ohh

Yeah thats not gonna work

[rocky ember]

[rocky ember]

I love magnets

[bitter wadi]

https://klipy.com/gifs/magic-how-do-they-work

[rocky ember]

magic

[radiant drift]

Hate is a strong word. I had long term reliability concerns with the steel core belt. You would have been able to make parts but for how long was the question.

[rocky ember]

now we wont have to worry 👍

[rocky ember]

i just figured this out

belt black DOES NOT mean belt in fiberglass core 😭

i guess when shitty steel core belt breaks i can replace it with another shitty one 😭

[bitter wadi]

Is this the z belt?

[rocky ember]

yeah

im not that sad cause its on z which is way better than if it wouldve been on AB

[uneven canyon]

On Z I wouldn't worry about it. Just have spares

[rocky ember]

XD now i do so im not mad about it

[rocky ember]

Using rtv gasket for bed and wiring bed and toolhead is all that is left

Ofc after those i will have to tune and stuff

[bitter wadi]

👀

[rocky ember]

Also build on bed cause no table 😭

[rocky ember]

This stuff is stinky

[rocky ember]

This stuff is way cheaper to buy irl than online

[uneven canyon]

I warned ya

[rocky ember]

i took your advice XD I did it in the balcony

@uneven canyon do you perhaps know a good wiring diagram for bed and ssr and that

[uneven canyon]

THe manual... always the manual 🙂

[rocky ember]

uh ofc XD

[uneven canyon]

pages 182-185

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon to bed power out in controller ? And bed power in with 24v from psi ?

[uneven canyon]

that to controller side is the bed port on your MCU. Polarity matters!

[rocky ember]

yeah i know that but on mcu there is two bed power and other one bed out I'm guessing ssr to bed out no ?

[uneven canyon]

bed out. the bed power goes to your 24v power supply. again. polarity matters.

[rocky ember]

i will take pic when finished so u can spott if I'm wrong in smth

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon here u go inspection officer

brown is + blue is -

for DC

for AC

black is L grey is N

and ground well its ground

[gleaming loom]

bed wiring + and - look good assuming you did in fact wire the PSU to bed power and the SSR to Bed Out (I trust you, but can't see it in these pictures)

[rocky ember]

oh one sec then ill take them covers off

And other one bed power is to psu

[gleaming loom]

looks good to me

[rocky ember]

yayyy

how long u reckon i let the silicone like settle for ?

[gleaming loom]

I think it's like 1hr set, 24hr cure so I'd give it a full day

[rocky ember]

and its fine to be inside ? or do i need to leave it outside

[gleaming loom]

i think inside is fine

[gaunt leaf]

Oh btw did you end up sourcing 6x3 magnets?

[rocky ember]

Yeah most voron projecta use them anyways i got 40

[rocky ember]

https://preview.redd.it/i-google-ebb36-pinout-and-got-2-pictures-with-different-v0-ifi0g7782yje1.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=caf14581c947bde5d6f8cd6e0a4a797004b263fa](https://preview.redd.it/i-google-ebb36-pinout-and-got-2-pictures-with-different-v0-ifi0g7782yje1.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=caf14581c947bde5d6f8cd6e0a4a797004b263fa)

in the ebb pinout

the endstop is a 5 pin jstxh

do i only use 5v and gnd from it ?

[uneven canyon]

GND and PB6

[rocky ember]

oh okk thanks

[uneven canyon]

don't want to connect +5 to GND 😉

[rocky ember]

also ofc its not gnd and 5v that would be a big problem if the two of those are clicke xD im dumb

[uneven canyon]

Not dumb.

[rocky ember]

are u watching my screen ?

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon the tap probe has 3 wires comming out of the tap pcb what connector do i use to plug it into these headers

[uneven canyon]

use the PB9, +5v, and GND from the probe connector. Just triple check that you have the correct pinout (maybe even quadruple check) since getting a replacement would be challenging.

Pro tip, you can use a 2.54 pitch JST connector on those pins as well, instead of having to crimp duponts

[rocky ember]

im guessing black gnd red 5v and blue is pb9

its the wire that came with the pcb

but i will check for optotap pinout

Yes i am correct

But sadly the guy thats printing the last stuff the ebb mount and exhaust thingy said it will be done Sunday cus he busy

So prob printing next week 👀

[uneven canyon]

Yep. you got it.

I have been waiting for this serial request for over 6 months. 🙂

[rocky ember]

not just u 😃

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon uh help

i have a what is it called

racking issue ?

[bitter wadi]

Can we git some pictures plz

[rocky ember]

yes sir

Gap front right and back left. But smooth motion frant to back

@bitter wadi so ?

i did what he said in the vid but it did not work

do i need to remove belts ?

[rocky ember]

i tried my best to minimize it but meh

[bitter wadi]

I would open a thread in #1169405960540917810

Cause while im pretty sure you square to the rear of the printer, im not 100 percent sure

[rocky ember]

will do that

[bitter wadi]

👍

[rocky ember]

so update racking wasent solved bed wired but it is not aligned well it is going to the left about 8mm more than the right

will try a shot on both tmrw

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon can u help me out with this racking issue i tried to the best of my ability yesterday but to no luck

do u reckon i need to remove belts

[bitter wadi]

@rocky ember I would follow the advice in your #1169405960540917810 post

[rocky ember]

@bitter wadi i solved itt hehhehehhe so nice

also um question does any of u know how to get a m5 bolt out if its head is like messed up 🙃

[uneven canyon]

That deserves a pic of the bolt

[rocky ember]

The bottom one

The bed is 5mm to the side so i would prefer to move it a bit

Also lol im gonna buy a pi4 model b 4gb ram for 200 tnd i haggled a guy down from 270 to 200

[uneven canyon]

That head doesn’t look too bad. I would try a different 3mm driver. Definitely not a ball head

[rocky ember]

Will look for another one

[uneven canyon]

You may be able to take the bolt completely out of the one going into the bed support and then twist the bracket and the bolt at the same time, but it will definitely scratch the extrusion if you do

[rocky ember]

Will be last resort 🤚🏻

[uneven canyon]

Yep

[rocky ember]

sadly had to twist it off

but now everything is done

also i left a bit of heated bed wiring and made it in a cercle so if in the future i need to change anything i have spare wire

now just gotta plug in the bed thermistor

[uneven canyon]

Nice. Be pooping plastic today?

[bitter wadi]

@uneven canyon can you use a manta in pass through mode with a pi4 to access the can port?

[uneven canyon]

No clue. Never actually used one of those devices

[bitter wadi]

Neither have i

[uneven canyon]

Yeah. I would probably wait on the Pi until I was forced to do it

[rocky ember]

ohhh

im not saying im gonna buy it to use it here with the printer im saying maybe for future builds and to tinker with at the moment XD

and i also always wanted to use a pi as a dedicated HA system not a docker image

[rocky ember]

what this mean ?

do i actually just wait for it to change ?

here is the klippy thing

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon ...

where can i find the files for XOL pcb ?

the dummy one

[bitter wadi]

That uses the same microfit connectors as the one you are struggling with

[rocky ember]

Mr wheels as i have seem him he doesnt use the connector he just shoves them in XD

[uneven canyon]

Toolhead pcb is here. https://github.com/ruiqimao/VoronStuff/tree/main/Xol_PCB Honestly though, I would think about just hardwiring the toolhead side given the issues with acquiring hardware. You can still do umbilical, it is just longer wires. Here

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon Are you proud dad 😂

[bitter wadi]

One of the first prints will probably be a pug

[uneven canyon]

Haha. I saw you got it running in the ticket there. Good job, just continue to be patient and you will be printing soon. Don’t forget the advise about insulating that wire. Hot glue, tape or RTV would all work, but not a huge fan of the hot glue. 😂

[rocky ember]

i already have some one that will print me the orbiter to ebb36 mount so it will be ziptied to that untill i print myself a pug for sure

[uneven canyon]

Absolutely this. Get as much stress relief as possible there since it is a common failure point anyway

[rocky ember]

a little dap of hot slop wont hurt XD

[rocky ember]

will def do

[uneven canyon]

As long as the chamber stays below the mid 60s it will be fine

[rocky ember]

how would i go about doing that with RTV cause i have LOTS of it now XD

oh i could put heat shrink just shrink the bottom bit and fill it with RTV XD

[uneven canyon]

That’s kinda what I was thinking, but just make sure it doesn’t go down into the connector pins. That might be difficult with the heat shrink. You are definitely going to want to find some microfit connectors soon so you have spares and for future projects

[rocky ember]

Will look every electronics store i can find cause y8kes it would be sad if they break 🤞🏻pray they dont

[uneven canyon]

Yeah. You are always able to directly wire if needed as well. Microfit 3 are what you are looking for

Well off to bed. Good luck!

[rocky ember]

Thanks good night

[rocky ember]

anyone know of some sort of guide so i can like do the config and all that

also y will be sensorless for now until i print a diffrent mount for the A thingy

[willow shuttle]

https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/

[bitter wadi]

Is that what you were looking for?

[rocky ember]

yes thank you very much

[bitter wadi]

[rocky ember]

eh um ive looked in it but thats not really what im looking for cause right now when i move x or y it says short to pin gives a error i made stealthchop 999999 and now it moves but sounds weird so is there a video or guide to fixing quirks like that

[earnest aspen]

What is sounds weird?

[rocky ember]

It moves weird and does this buzzing sound

Before i fixed it idk how

I think when i was doing sensorless

Will show vid of how it is when i get home

[bitter wadi]

Btw for sensorless here is the link for setting it up

[willow shuttle]

https://docs.vorondesign.com/tuning/sensorless.html

[earnest aspen]

What is moves weird buzzing is normal you need to install TMC autotune which helps a bit

[rocky ember]

The movement it does move to the right side but its not smooth at all one sec

This what i mean

[earnest aspen]

Looks smooth to me
Your umbilical cable is too strained, you'll break it like that

[bitter wadi]

also the rear cable chain has a very uncomfortable angle

[earnest aspen]

I think you'll need to remove some links from the cable chain otherwise it would hit the top panel when z is high

[rocky ember]

Ik im not even moving it just to test the board

[rocky ember]

Eh idk how thats smooth it was way smoother before like way before

[earnest aspen]

You're moving it 💀

[rocky ember]

XD yeah i guess 😭

Do u hear the weird sound it makes? Like brrr brrr

Thats whats confusing

[rocky ember]

Okk

[earnest aspen]

Yea, it doesn't sound too out of the ordinary, but usually it's higher pitched. But depending on your motor it sounds plausible
You want TMC autotune for sure on this one, what's your motor part number? The tmc2240 drivers make a difference too

[gleaming loom]

might be in a noisy area because going slow too, but don't send it at 1m/s either

[rocky ember]

Hmm im usin 2209 and and i finish eating and come try to figure out

[earnest aspen]

Good point :3 yea must be a noisy speed

[rocky ember]

Hehe cool lights

[rocky ember]

Soook what do i dooo

[earnest aspen]

Nothing, software stuff later, keep building

[rocky ember]

Not much to build wait for ebb orbiter mount print and exhaust print from the guy just those 😝

[rocky ember]

ehh do any of you know what sensor type x1c hotend is ? i found someone said on reddit its ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G but when i heated up it doesnt change value

[uneven canyon]

It is either going to be a 104NT or generic 3950. Connect is and see what it is reading on the display to be sure.

[rocky ember]

connect is ? what is that

also one of the 4010 fans turns out its dead

[uneven canyon]

Meaning connect it to the toolhead board and see what shows in the UI. If it is reading the same as room temp, you have the correct thing selected

[rocky ember]

yeahhh i dont think room temp is 26.2 XD

thats what its giving me as ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G

will try generic

both no working

meh will continue tmrw im tired

[uneven canyon]

Night. Ping me tomorrow and we can work through some things.

[fiery igloo]

the generic 3950 would be like this. That's what I've put for the bambu clone hotends I've used (edited to include line for the pullup resistor, I think that's also required)

pullup_resistor: 2200```

[rocky ember]

yay it worked

the thing was i have the pin set on the ebb.cfg but i forgot to change in printer.cfg the pin to EBBCan: PA3

with no pullup resistor btw

and holy moly does it heat up FAST

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon ehh i think i need to extend heater wires

hotend wires

is there a good way to do that

with the orbiter to ebb36 mount it has increased in depth and the board gone up a bit so wires dont reach anymore

[uneven canyon]

The normal process is to make a short wire with the proper connector on each end. A good solder job and heatshrink can be used as well.

[rocky ember]

btw for the umbilical i choose from the exhaust as u said and at the back what do i use like cable ducting or just let the wires there i did sleeve them

[gleaming loom]

@rocky ember to not clog the other build log, my 4040/4020 misumi frame was $243.47 and I drilled/tapped the holes myself, mostly with tools at work.

[rocky ember]

Thats reasonable tbf also very rude person

[rocky ember]

anddd we have panelsss!!

will prob do the masking tape method

[uneven canyon]

It is the normal path 🙂

[rocky ember]

yuppp

so excited hehe

[uneven canyon]

What do you have left?

[rocky ember]

gotta go to my friends house get some heatshrink cause to lengthen the heater wires and i suppose first time tuning or configurating idk what to call it and we are in business also gonna go buy a kg of ABS im thinking black

[uneven canyon]

Nice. Make sure that you follow the startup guide exactly when you are first getting it going. start it right from the beginning even if you have done some of the steps already. I like to treat it as a checklist after doing any large maintenance on my machines as well.

[rocky ember]

will def do that and yeah i gotta do sensorless on Y for now

[uneven canyon]

Getting close!

[earnest aspen]

I love Sensorless homing

[rocky ember]

how so ?

[uneven canyon]

Insanity

[rocky ember]

its like magic im doing it purely out of necessity 😭

[uneven canyon]

This is why I don't like it (I have one machine with it though) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Death_of_Garry_Hoy

[earnest aspen]

Motor knows where it isn't by sensing it's own voltage output. How cool is that

[rocky ember]

it is extremly cool but if i had a choice i would go with the easy solution

[earnest aspen]

Sensorless is easy! Less wire mess on your gantry

[rocky ember]

also @uneven canyon i got a GX16 4pin connector to put in the exhaust cause uh why not and it allows me to split it to two parts

[rocky ember]

well then you'll have to keep your word when u help me set it up tmrw

[uneven canyon]

they are quite easy connectors 🙂

[rocky ember]

the GX16 ? yeah thats why i got them

[earnest aspen]

Sounds good

[rocky ember]

yippies

[uneven canyon]

Its not like you arent already running a bunch of wires there for steppers thermistors, etc. 😛

[earnest aspen]

welllll true...

[rocky ember]

https://klipy.com/gifs/kanye-gotcha

[rocky ember]

got into the college i wanted

i also chose smth with electronics in it cuz i wanna learn and whats a better place am i right

[gaunt leaf]

I’m surprised how much you were able to source locally it’s insane

[rocky ember]

it def took a while tho

anyways i did the umbilical for now now i gotta do config and stuff hehe

oh

bed doesnt seem to want to heat up

nvmmm i looked at pinout and saw bed-out was PF5 and changed the heater pin to that

[earnest aspen]

you're electronicking correctly

[rocky ember]

im learning

[rocky ember]

ehh do i switch to kalico ? it says its simpler to use it for sensorless

@earnest aspen you need (not need, need is a strong word) to answer me cuz its about sensorless and u said you'll help hehehe

[earnest aspen]

yes get Kalico, a lot of folks say it's more reliable than even Klipper. no breaking probe changes and such.
for sensorless, install TMC Autotune and it gets really a lot easier

[rocky ember]

okkk will do that then

thanks

[earnest aspen]

https://github.com/andrewmcgr/klipper_tmc_autotune#sensorless-homing
here's the write up, so basically you want to make your sensorless sg4_thrs more sensitive so that it gets tripped by nothing, you'll see it move a bit and stop. then, increase the threshold until it's moving consistently to the back

[rocky ember]

im now following the github page on how to switch to kalico

[earnest aspen]

for this one, higher number = more sensitive. so start a bit higher than the default and go down :3

[earnest aspen]

I like Kiauh, to switch to kalico, super easy

[rocky ember]

the timing 🤌 i just used the method one right this second, not kiauh 😭

[earnest aspen]

the other methods works too

also if you flashed your boards already, you'll want to reflash it for Kalico. I ran into some PWM issues with kalico + klipper firmware

[rocky ember]

whattt

so wait

if i reflash it for kalico does that mean i loose my flash for how its in canbridge mode ?

[earnest aspen]

it 'should' work, but not guaranteed unless you re-flash the firmware, for both the canbridge bus on your main board and your can toolhead board

but imo, kalico has many more features that I enjoy, like dual loop pid

[rocky ember]

uhhh well this sounds like quite the headache 😭

ill just stick with klipper 😭

now how do i undo whatever i did

mv klipper klipperOLD
git clone https://github.com/KalicoCrew/kalico.git ~/klipper
sudo systemctl restart klipper
i did these as the github said

[earnest aspen]

pick klipper again in Kiauh and you're back

send screenshot if you want to !

[rocky ember]

im sorry but what is kiauh 😭

uhh does manjaro have screen shots wait

[earnest aspen]

https://github.com/dw-0/kiauh

you wont regret using this, its sooo nice

your printer's software manager for the linux side :)

[rocky ember]

here screenshot

[rocky ember]

will do it then

[earnest aspen]

o it works in the linux terminal not mainsail

[rocky ember]

the commands i sent u mean ?

[earnest aspen]

which commands, could you send again?

[rocky ember]

mv klipper klipperOLD
git clone https://github.com/KalicoCrew/kalico.git ~/klipper
sudo systemctl restart klipper

i did them with ssh btw

ofc not in mainsail

[earnest aspen]

ooh yea ok good :)

[rocky ember]

i updated kiauh and it says please restart kiauh

[earnest aspen]

I meant show ssh screenshot yea :3

[rocky ember]

XD

miss communication

here u go @earnest aspen

[earnest aspen]

do these three and youll be in kiauh

[rocky ember]

im already there the screen shot is there

i said yes update kiauh

and it said to restart it now

[earnest aspen]

o then ./kiauh/kiauh.sh to start it again?

[earnest aspen]

sure Y

[earnest aspen]

nice, so for Klipper, owner, repo, it's showing Kalico
so go to S settings, then send screenshot

[rocky ember]

i really dont want to reflash btw

[earnest aspen]

1

you wont need to reflash

if you go back to klipper

[rocky ember]

yayy

[earnest aspen]

what does it show now? after you pressed 1

[rocky ember]

i chose 1

should be right i think

[earnest aspen]

select 1 again, this is the main klipper branch yes :)

and it should be doing the switch over back to Klipper automatically (you'll see it running something)

[rocky ember]

yeah its loading stuff will prob switch to kalico one day in the future but not now cus i just wanna print im sick of waiting XD

[rocky ember]

bruh why when i try to home x the Z goes down 💀

[earnest aspen]

Ummm

Video pls

[rocky ember]

Please tell me you can hear that awfull motor sounds

And why is x making y go backwards 😭

I think this happened when i was trying to add tap stuff

i decided it is better to redo the whole like config stuff like use a sample config and add to it

[earnest aspen]

ok several things,

1. your Z motion direction is backwards (all 4 corners). when homing, it goes up a bit on Z in case you are near the bed.
2. that gantry sound is not normal at all, I can't tell which direction it is moving but you mentioned it was moving Y direction too? I think your belts could be misrouted. could we get some detailed photos of the left right idler, front and back of each XY joint on the X beam, and front and back of your motor mounts, remove the back panel.

[earnest aspen]

no not related to tap

[rocky ember]

i fixed the Z thing its moves up
and it moves Y then when it reaches end moves x its kinda weird

and wait for pics

[steady arch]

is this while homing?

[rocky ember]

Im still in homing i didnt do anything further

[steady arch]

sensorless?

[rocky ember]

i still didnt do sensorless yet im just trying to figure out how to fix the weird movement and sound

btw people BEFORE i did do sesorless and it was moving just fine with same motors

do i have to remove back panel ik its routed correctly there

i dont have any move masking tape to put it back 😭

[barren cedar]

Have you redone basics like stepper_buzz

[rocky ember]

oh yeah about that all work well except when doing stepper x it gives me STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_x

[barren cedar]

I don’t know what you mean by this

[rocky ember]

oh sorry im used with windows when i do ctrl+v it sends screenshot

[barren cedar]

So there’s a problem with your X/B motor- most likely wiring/crimping.

[rocky ember]

heh then why when its not stepper buzz but homming i dont get that error ? @barren cedar

[barren cedar]

The electrical current changes in stepper buzz are more rapid than in normal movement so are more likely to trigger the error.

The abnormal noise/motion seen in your video fits with a motor that is not moving properly, and the error you show adds to that evidence.

[rocky ember]

ohh okk will investigate this right now

@barren cedar interesting thing i just found

so i tried using another wires and same thing i said huh dont tell me its the motor then i changed the tmc2209 to slot 3 and changed config for that too

and it works

with buzzer

they both buzz fine

x and Y

but when trying to home still awfull sound so i will i guess remove the back panel and investigate further

Its fine no?

[barren cedar]

It’s fine. Can I see a new klippy log

[rocky ember]

here u go

[barren cedar]

Set stealthchop to 0 for tmc2209 stepper x and stepper y

[rocky ember]

huh i did that now its giving me this when i do G28 X

[barren cedar]

But not y?

[rocky ember]

same error even when i try to do Y

same in like even when i do y it says stepper_x

[barren cedar]

So we still have a problem with the X/B motor, wiring or stepper driver.

[rocky ember]

but when i do buzz its good and when stealthchop is not 0 its good
good doesnt mean it works good mean no short error but weird noises

[barren cedar]

The error is the thing to focus on.

[rocky ember]

yeah thats what i mean when stealthchop is not 0 it doesnt give error

[barren cedar]

Yes, and you should not have stealthchop activated for x and y, so that’s going to be a problem.

[rocky ember]

so its fixed

you are 100% correct one of the wires is messed up

i gotta lengthen this one now

[rocky ember]

it was a factory cable that one btw and i figured why its bad the two pins in the middle are swapped i depined them swapped them and now that cable also works

now i gotta acrtually do sesorless y XD

its so funny i started wanting to do sensorless at 9 and its been two hours XD

[gleaming loom]

Thats how these things always go

[rocky ember]

if its always like this its gonna take a while 😭

alright i hope i dont break anything

[rocky ember]

guess who decided to measure once and now has to cut twice

anyways its not a biggie

im trying y sensorless but now matter what driver_SGTHRS value i set it does the same thing move a little back then stop then a little more than it says it homed when it didnt anyone has an idea ?

here is a vid

[uneven canyon]

You should be homing faster with Sensorless

[rocky ember]

I have hominh speed to 80 ? As the guide said ill crank it yo 100

[earnest aspen]

Ya go up to like 100? If it's too slow it doesn't work well

[rocky ember]

Eh why does it always do that like 2 moves

[uneven canyon]

It does the second one slower to be more accurate

[radiant drift]

Ummm, if the moves are to back away from the Y max values for each home, your A and B motors are swapped.

Dissable the stepper drivers and swap the steppers at the motor drivers.

[rocky ember]

i did now its moving twice to the front doesnt THAT mean they're swapped ?

bruh why dont some one just do x and Y on toolhead switches

[radiant drift]

X is easy. Y needs to be done on the A motor mount typically. Yes, I'm a fan of switches.

[rocky ember]

i wish i can find a way to mount a switch now XD would be a hell of alot easier

[radiant drift]

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/Minsekt/Rear_Umbilical/Y_Endstop_Relocation ?

[rocky ember]

without printing another part i mean btw

[rocky ember]

i did smth

[uneven canyon]

[rocky ember]

Untill i print my own parts btw not permanent hehe

Gotta figure out tap now

[uneven canyon]

As long as it is sturdy there and can’t fall off. Slow it down a bit now that you aren’t using Sensorless btw

[rocky ember]

Oh yeah lol i forgot and ueah its pretty snug in there also double sided tape for extra

[uneven canyon]

Watch it like a hawk and be prepared to hit the emergency stop button until you can get something printed

[rocky ember]

For sure

Yout specialty mr @uneven canyon

[uneven canyon]

Save this for when you can print https://www.printables.com/model/324787-voron-v24-and-trident-y-endstop-relocation-mod

[uneven canyon]

Nice. I am getting ready to head to bed for the night. Take your time and read through it a couple of times. I am sure someone will be in if you need help. Good luck!

[rocky ember]

Thanks, goodnight

[rocky ember]

bruh i dont understand how motor Z decided it doesnt want to move anymore

[earnest aspen]

Well your ab wiring was bad.. so probably wiring again :3

Didn't you promise you knew how to crimp those

[gaunt leaf]

True but btw for the 6x3mm magnets did you import them or what did you do?

[rocky ember]

dudeee

in the vid homminh Y the Z went up just fine

look at it

why now wiring will decide otherwise ?

[rocky ember]

i got them with my uncle from abroad i got as many as i could

[rocky ember]

to just be sure i also used a known working cable

and its the same

[barren cedar]

What has changed since it was working last.

[rocky ember]

config stuf just that

tried to add tap

[barren cedar]

So go over the config again and make sure the entries for that z drive are correct. I presume not even stepper_buzz is working?

[rocky ember]

yes no its not working but other Z are working

ill try again to go over it

btw here is my Z0 section if anyone can spot smth wrong

Z0 Stepper - Front Left on MOTOR4

[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB4
dir_pin: PB3
enable_pin: !PB6
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 16
endstop_pin: ^PF2

Z-position of nozzle (in mm) to z-endstop trigger point relative to print surface (Z0)

(+) value = endstop above Z0, (-) value = endstop below

Increasing position_endstop brings nozzle closer to the bed

After you run Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE, position_endstop will be stored at the very end of your config

#position_endstop: -0.5
##--------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncomment below for 250mm build

#position_max: 240

Uncomment below for 300mm build

#position_max: 290

Uncomment below for 350mm build

position_max: 340
position_endstop: 340
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
position_min: -5
homing_speed: 8
second_homing_speed: 3
homing_retract_dist: 3

Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)

[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: PB5
interpolate: true
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0

[barren cedar]

Config alone is not much use, need to know what’s plugged in where too

[rocky ember]

z0 motor to motor4 slot in the m8p v2

[barren cedar]

Config you’ve given looks fine.

[rocky ember]

what u think could be the issue

[barren cedar]

Well, providing motor is actually plugged into m4, it could still be wiring, or a bad stepper driver.

[rocky ember]

so what i did now is i exchanged like wires so z1 went to motor4 and z went to motor5 and the problem is now in z1

so its not motor or wiring

i changed Z0 to slot 3 in the m8p and changed config to that and now its working

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon tap also works now

[uneven canyon]

Getting closer!

[rocky ember]

soo what this mean ? when i did SAVE_CONFIG for bed heater its fine

extruder it gives me that

[barren cedar]

You are trying to save a config variable that is not in the main printer.cfg but in an included file

[rocky ember]

oh in the ebb.cfg i guess its there ? so what do i do ?

[uneven canyon]

You need to create an extruder section in your printer config and move some of the parts over there. Let me get you an example

[rocky ember]

ohh ok thankss

[uneven canyon]

Here is one of my machines with a nitehawk-36 and the printer.cfg as well. The nitehawk config would kinda be like your ebb36 config (just different pinouts)

You will see that [extruder] exists in both the toolhead board file and the main printer config, BUT there are no values that overlap.

The short answer is that you need to remove the control and PID values from your EBB36 config and put them in your printer.cfg under an [extruder] section

[rocky ember]

ahhhh

so comment out control section in ebb cfg and THEN do SAVE_CONFIG

[uneven canyon]

Also, don't use anything from my config. it is going to be wildly different from your machine. Just an example of how they work together. It is also why I really dislike having config in multiple files.

[uneven canyon]

yup

[rocky ember]

tomorrow will buy masking tape and a roll of ABS and it should be the day i start pushing plastic

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon i have no idea what any of these numbers mean

[uneven canyon]

Take this slider at the bottom. move it to the right and keep it there. the rest of the numbers mean that you have an excellent quality bed. Well worth the wait

[rocky ember]

really ? im very happy then nice but this is cold btw

do i do one hot now ?

[uneven canyon]

It won't hurt, but I would expect to see an excellent result there as well.

[rocky ember]

what temp u reckon 100 bed ?

[uneven canyon]

Now... There is something else you are going to need to get done in order to be ready to print. YOu need to setup your slicer and print start macro

[rocky ember]

im actually so happy rn cus idk what this bed went through for 2 months 😭

[uneven canyon]

For ABS you want 110 and leave it at 110 until your printer will overheat because it is at 110 (meaning you have lots of insulation)

[rocky ember]

i wanna set up as many things as i possibly can so tmrw i can print

[rocky ember]

i dont have panels on at this moment btw

[uneven canyon]

You should be very happy with that. There are people who would beg for that. LOL

[rocky ember]

https://klipy.com/gifs/wwe-yes-2

[uneven canyon]

Yeah. thats why I said it wont hurt. Honestly, I would just skip it.

[rocky ember]

i wont do it then

ill do it tmrw

[rocky ember]

so i do these now

heheheh

[uneven canyon]

OK. print start macro. Go to this website and step through the questions https://abetterprintstartmacro.com/

If you have questions or something isn't clear, let me know and we will work through it. It should be pretty straight forward though.

And use the simplest options you can find for now @rocky ember, there will always be time to make it more complicated

[rocky ember]

uh do i use hotend thermistor as chamber thermistor or let it fall back to the 5min heatsoak ?

[rocky ember]

dw the simpler the better for now

[uneven canyon]

Just do the 5 minute heatsoak for now

Then we will need to work on getting you an additional thermistor to put in the chamber

[rocky ember]

BTW for the bed mesh do i do SAVE_CONFIG after it or nah ? and i got the macro

[uneven canyon]

Once you are ready to print tomorrow, we can walk you through a manual heatsoak to get the machine up to temp

[uneven canyon]

Replace the print start in your printer config with the one from the website and then do a save and restart

Manual Heatsoaking

1. Home the machine
2. Move the toolhead to X:175, Y:175, Z:100
3. Turn the part cooling fans to 100%
4. Leave the extruder OFF!!!
5. Set the bed to 110°
6. Monitor the reported temp from the Extruder until you see it reach a minimum of 50°

Once you see it hit 50, you can then start your print job. It will go through the entire print start process again and after the 5 minute heatsoak, you will be ready for ABS.

• If your machine doesn't make it to 50 in 30-45 minutes, you may need to put a blanket over the machine. I suspect this will not be an issue for you at this time of year.

[uneven canyon]

Also, what slicer are you going to use?

[rocky ember]

orca slicer i guess ? i always hear about it

btw question about part cooling fans

i get them to 100% but they dont feel that powerfull

[uneven canyon]

It doesn't ever feel like a big blast of air. as long as they are turning fast, I am sure they are doing what they need to do. Honestly, until you get the chamber temps up, you are probably not going to need a lot of part cooling either.

[rocky ember]

okk gladdi was this close to using an air compressor as part cooling /j

so now after i did printer start macro now whats next step sensei

[uneven canyon]

Download orcaslicer of course 🙂

[rocky ember]

duhh 😭

[uneven canyon]

haha... we may need to get the attention of someone familiar with Orca for setting up the custom start gcode in there.

You are going to want

M104 S0 ; Cancel slicer-injected heating so PRINT_START controls it
M140 S0 ; Cancel slicer-injected heating so PRINT_START controls it
print_start EXTRUDER=[first_layer_temperature] BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature] CHAMBER=[chamber_temperature] CHAMBER_MINIMAL=[chamber_minimal_temperature]

As your custom start in the slicer

[rocky ember]

what u use ?

[uneven canyon]

I use a slicer called BOSS. it is a customized version of Prusaslicer. Lets do the simple things first though 🙂

[rocky ember]

for suree was just curious

@uneven canyon this slicer? XD

[earnest aspen]

wow amazing!

[rocky ember]

noo racist orca where is africa /j

[earnest aspen]

under 0.2 is pretty much perfect

[uneven canyon]

Right? took him 3 months to get it but I say it was worth the wait

[rocky ember]

finished the wizard

[uneven canyon]

Now getting the custom start into there is where I am lost on this one. @earnest aspen, you know Orca?

[earnest aspen]

no.. I stayed with prusaslicer 😆 3.0 will be worth it !

[rocky ember]

btw that was my biggest fear that i waited 3 months and it would be messed up so such relief rn 😌

i go to #slicers_and_print_help ?

[uneven canyon]

That would be the correct channel for all things slicers.

[rocky ember]

awful news i have lost my btt ducky

[uneven canyon]

It was a crap ducky anyway

[rocky ember]

nooo it made funny sounds

[uneven canyon]

Tell your uncle he needs to start visiting more often 🙂

[rocky ember]

he for sure needs to

[uneven canyon]

Some google foo can help bridge the gap.

[rocky ember]

yup just put it here for future use and u learn too

[uneven canyon]

Oh, I doubt I will use orca. The interface is too modern for me. There are no analog dials or nixie tubes

inb4 Bom posts nixie tubes

[rocky ember]

i did it

but damn was that edit icon so stealthy jeez

[uneven canyon]

It would have been easier if there was a nixie tube

[rocky ember]

VERY MUCH EASIER

im done now ? for now ?

[uneven canyon]

Yeah, I was going to say that you are probably done until you can pick up some filament and tape for the panels. I have a feeling there will be some pooping of plastic tomorrow.

[rocky ember]

me tooo im excited im gonna get black abs cus well idk i guess black and blue suits the look

also the bed screws that hold it down

[uneven canyon]

I buy black ABS 40kg at a time. it is the best.

[rocky ember]

i once saw that u need to only screw two or smth i dont remember is that a thing ?

[rocky ember]

one day

[uneven canyon]

Personally, I tighten all 4 when the bed is at temp.

[rocky ember]

ohh so i untighten them now ?

i have heated up the bed before btw with them tightened

[uneven canyon]

Honestly, I am not sure that it makes a bit of difference.

[rocky ember]

ill leave it like this then

alright gonna head to bed soon

[earnest aspen]

lol what brand :o

[rocky ember]

thanks @uneven canyon you have been an awesome help in this journey

[uneven canyon]

ZYLTech

[uneven canyon]

Not just me 🙂

[rocky ember]

im gonna try abs that is advertised as "tunisian filament"

[rocky ember]

ofc all of you guys are major help i was this close to @ everyone

[uneven canyon]

@teal mulch can do it for ya 😛

[uneven canyon]

Wait until you find out that it is the best ABS ever made 🙂

[rocky ember]

i WISH

[uneven canyon]

We are going to find out tomorrow. I probably won't make it back from our building maintenance day until 7PM your time, but I will check in on ya from time to time.

[rocky ember]

huh

it homes z just fine but QGL says that

it touches the bed but doesnt go abit more down to triger the probe

i tried to like make it parallel by hand then run it and it worked

but it wasnt skew that much

so isnt QGL whole job to do that for me 😭

installed the panels with the forbidden masking tape

will go later to buy some ABS the store was closed when i went earlier

[earnest aspen]

U can increase the probe movement range on your config but you risk grinding out your corners if you let it do too far with a twisted gantry

U can increase it a fair amount safely with the stock setup tho at least a couple mms

[rocky ember]

ohh next time i turn it on later i will ask how to do this and do it cause if it moved 1mm more it would have triggered

also wifi is trash way to connect to printer it keeps disconnecting so i pulled the 10M ethernet cable and hooked it up

[earnest aspen]

Lol depends on your wifi I guess. Mine is solid

[rocky ember]

mine is DOODOO 💩

[rocky ember]

Abs acquired 🤙🏻

gonna take a shower then start messing around HEHEHE

[rocky ember]

gonna do esteps now its the last thing in the initial startup guide

uh i didnt think of this until now

do i have to have smth to put the filament on it ? to roll or can i put it on the table standing and it will be fine ?

[fiery igloo]

you could probably leave it loose on the table (keep an eye on it so it doesn't unravel all over the place), but you'll want to print a spool holder in pretty short order.
also i'm pretty skeptical about that print temp, 230 is usually pretty low for ABS.. bed temp is about right though

[rocky ember]

how much you think i should set it at

250 ?

[fiery igloo]

that'd probably where I'd start testing. Since it's ABS+, the temp might kinda depend on what the "+" means.

I guess the other thing is that a spool holder can be printed out of PLA or whatever you have handy. It needs to be tough but since it's outside the chamber it doesn't have to be heat-resistant.

[rocky ember]

i have never printed anything before in my life so i dont have anything else 😭

[rocky ember]

i have a question

concerning esteps

do i insert the filament until its all the way down into the hotend then mesure 150mm from the entrance of the extruder ?

it prob is clear in the guide but i couldnt understand do i insert then mesure or do i mesure then insert

[earnest aspen]

ya insert then measure. all that matters is the extruder is gripping the filament so it doesnt need to start all the way down either

just make sure hotend is hot to melt away :)

[rocky ember]

i did ittt hehehe

And uhh its off by 2 mm will go put it in the calc

[rocky ember]

uh question 😭 i have two cfg one ebb.cfg and one is printer.cfg
they both have extruder section
which one is the actuall one ?

[earnest aspen]

if you have 2, it'll randomly pick one

consolidate into one spot

[rocky ember]

how do i do that ? i remove the one in the printer.cfg ?

[earnest aspen]

ya just cut and paste into ebb and comment it out

[rocky ember]

Andddd i got it to exactly 100mm

[rocky ember]

i invented smth XD

not invented

came up with a solution

[earnest aspen]

the preset value is pretty good tbh

[earnest aspen]

lmaoo

[rocky ember]

BEHOLD

the bucket holder

[earnest aspen]

@bitter wadi positron spool holder ?

[bitter wadi]

[rocky ember]

also can do 5kg spools

[bitter wadi]

@wanton sail I think the cat has a point

[bitter wadi]

[rocky ember]

i think this is time to realocate the printer to THE FLOOR

[bitter wadi]

[rocky ember]

ehh

this is abit heavier than expected 🙂

[wanton sail]

I’m genuinely afraid to move the Cascade

[earnest aspen]

now you know why smol printers are popular but its nice to have one big one

[rocky ember]

next printer will def be a 180

[rocky ember]

2 man job i would think

[rocky ember]

is it a 180 tri zero is it a micron is it smth completely different who knows

spool loaded i guess then its time to heat soak

@earnest aspen

what first print do i do ?

like to calibrate or smth idk

this is unknown territory for me

[earnest aspen]

ooh do the dino clip

https://www.printables.com/model/64493-dino-clip-mechanical-cam-chip-clip-print-in-place

[rocky ember]

is this really a calibration print ? 😭

im gonna stack stls of stuff my mom will like so she doesnt think im wasting money

[earnest aspen]

yea there are several difficult print spots, and angular faces, and overhangs

[bitter wadi]

[rocky ember]

will print then AFTER a voron cube i mean its only fair it would be a sin if its not the first one i try XD

[rocky ember]

heatsoaking

question is it okay to home at 110 bed temp ?

i homed before but i tried to send a print but it said smth about virtual sd card thing

so im guessing ill have to home when i change whatever it is i need in the config

excited

[earnest aspen]

fun!!!

by the way, try adding this to your config.

[temperature_sensor EBBCan]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
sensor_mcu: EBB0
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 100

[temperature_sensor CM4]
sensor_type: temperature_host

second one, I forget if you have a CM4 but worth a try regardless

[rocky ember]

um is it normal if orca is saying hotend 150 ? does it do 150 then go up more ?

[earnest aspen]

for probing and such, its 150

[rocky ember]

ahhh

makes total sense

then bruh i didnt need to home before sending print XD

[earnest aspen]

:3 your print_start should include a home

[rocky ember]

yeah it did and um it got to 150 and its fluctuating between 150.5 and 151 for a good min now

ik im asking a bunch of question im sorry but im scared kinda lol

so im babying it

its leveling now LETS GOOO

[earnest aspen]

o either needs to redo pid if its fluctuating that much. but there's a chance your printer is starting as intended

yay ur good. just needs a while more to hit 150 if your pid is weird

[rocky ember]

will def redo it later need to remember that

i wish @uneven canyon was here 🙁 its like seeing ur son's first steps XD

ehh in console when done leveling it said too many retries in red 🙁

with the chamber at temp

[earnest aspen]

very nice

[rocky ember]

yeah i need to pid tune the extruder its fluctuating too much

way better now

[rocky ember]

what is EXCLUDE_OBJECT_START
EXCLUDE_OBJECT_END

it keeps saying unkown command EXCLUDE_OBJECT_START

@bitter wadi 67

[bitter wadi]

[bitter wadi]

Look up exclude objects on the klipper website

[fiery igloo]

if it makes you feel better i put a note in my start macro reminding me to make sure that's set up

[rocky ember]

then i really need to set it up 😆

will do when this finishes

[bitter wadi]

Also you should follow the better start macro

[rocky ember]

i did that

[willow shuttle]

https://github.com/jontek2/A-better-print_start-macro

[rocky ember]

and i added it to orca

[fiery igloo]

that macro creator is extremely cool. i ended up at basically the same one, except it was tinkering over six months vs instantly

[rocky ember]

how do i remove a print from a bed lol

do i let it rest

untill it cools down ? like bread

noice

[gleaming loom]

You can flex the steel plate, but thin parts can bend that way. Otherwise let the sheet cool to ~60C either in the printer for least warp or on a table for faster

[rocky ember]

i let it rest in printer until it was 55 and got it out

phone needs to turn on so i can show u people

thoughts ?

[earnest aspen]

hmmm, really good for a first print, but could definitely use a reth boot camp :3

[gleaming loom]

Looks like a successful print, no issues a little tuning can't clean up! Get your serial and start printing spare parts

[rocky ember]

i dont think i can get serial with masking tape panels ? 😭

[earnest aspen]

https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1308016330326413393

[rocky ember]

whats a reth boot camp

[earnest aspen]

make post here

[gleaming loom]

You can get serial printing pla or anything you want

[earnest aspen]

you're eligible, print some door printed parts for your request

[rocky ember]

XD so the serial vid is me printing door clips funny

sooo i need to do input shaper then now ?

[earnest aspen]

o this is without input shaper? :o

[rocky ember]

uhh yeah ? 😭

[earnest aspen]

niceee
ok so just do install steps here
https://github.com/Frix-x/klippain-shaketune
and then do the commands in here
https://github.com/Frix-x/klippain-shaketune/blob/main/docs/README.md

[rocky ember]

okk will doo

[earnest aspen]

compare belt responses is kind of a joke because it assumes your toolhead board is perfectly rigid so dont worry too much about that one

[rocky ember]

[resonance_tester]
accel_chip: adxl345
probe_points:
175, 175, 20

i add this to printe.cfg ?

[earnest aspen]

yea :3

[resonance_tester]
accel_chip: adxl345
probe_points:
     175, 175, 20  
accel_per_hz: 100
sweeping_accel: 400
sweeping_period: 0```

[rocky ember]

so i installed it

did first one

AXES_MAP_CALIBRATION

said some about high angle error detected ?

do i ignore it and continue ?

[earnest aspen]

can ignore, probably your toolhead is a bit wobbly

for example, move x -> x + slight toolhead wobble = x+z -> some percentage angle error

[rocky ember]

ahhh i guess cus boad isnt mounted really THAT well

i ignored and did COMPARE_BELTS_RESPONSES

its making funny loud noises

my printer is a race car

i think the cb1 is having some issues

[earnest aspen]

oh cb1 tends to do that on compare belts response

good thing its useless

u can try closing mainsail while its running to lower the cpu load lmao

but ya move on to axis shaper calibration

[rocky ember]

will do

and i close mainsail when i run them ?

or its fine with axis ones ?

[earnest aspen]

I forget, ithink its fine

[rocky ember]

its funny when the belts make clapping noises

so it did two one for x one for y where can i find them ?

ahh it made a folder

what do these mean

this is it for today

it is 5 AM 😭

night

[earnest aspen]

night!

those are very good graphs. I'd just save the MZV values to your config and be happy

[rocky ember]

how do i save them ?

before i go eep

might as well do it

[earnest aspen]

shaper_type_x = mzv
shaper_freq_x = 68
damping_ratio_x = 0.051 
#11360 max

shaper_type_y = mzv
shaper_freq_y = 45.6
damping_ratio_y = 0.086
#4360 max

in your printer.cfg

[rocky ember]

ah uh got it thanks you've been a major help this night thanksss

[radiant drift]

If i had to say advice: More PA, lower EM.

Good first print though!

[uneven canyon]

Great job! You can definitely get a serial like that!

[rocky ember]

Will try to tune those then thankss

[rocky ember]

Will then print door clips atleast and get one hehe

[uneven canyon]

haha. many machines never even get panels. but I get it 🙂 Make sure that you tuning the machine by printing spare parts for the machine, not printing the same thing over and over again. There will be plenty of time for that 🙂

[rocky ember]

Im gonna make a tower of voron cubes 😂

Ik but i just want it to be a little presentable when i post it hehe

[uneven canyon]

yeah. the cube is a complete wase of plastic. LOL

[rocky ember]

For sureee but its must print for first time

[uneven canyon]

I have printed exactly one cube. and I will never print a bency those things need to die out

[rocky ember]

Agreed like what'sthe point

[rocky ember]

so im doing PA in orca and uh what settings do i use ? i know its PA pattern but like what accels and speeds idk where mine is at tbh

[fiery igloo]

If you're doing the pattern, you want to use the accel/speed settings you'd most likely use in a real-life print. I generally run whatever settings I have for my outer walls, since that's the part of the print I want to look nice
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ is your friend, if you don't have it already.

[rocky ember]

will follow that guide then cause i dont really know what i have them setup as i just chose the voron 2.4 350mm preset in orca and printed XD

ah uh found it

outer walls in orca is set to 120 and accels at 5000

i guess ill use those

old phone as ip camera

[rocky ember]

my room smells....weird

[gleaming loom]

make an army of dino clips instead 🙂

[uneven canyon]

One thing that helps is to use some vinyl tape to seal the bottom panel to the extrusions from the underside of the machine. then make sure the exhaust hole is sealed up around your umbilical and ptfe tube. YOu will end up where the only gap is on the Z drives and you can use the same vinyl tape to seal those to the machine as well as the access holes on them.

[rocky ember]

i mean the smell mostly came when i got the PA calibration print out when i opened the doors but yeah the Z drives i need to seal those i already sealed the umbilical hole for now

also sadge thing

i dont have m3 hammerhead tnuts

will have to buy those

[earnest aspen]

Sniff your blind joint corners. Gaping holes the the screw holes

[uneven canyon]

Foam earplugs work perfect for those.

[rocky ember]

the best looking one in PA is at 0.03

[earnest aspen]

Calibration print got me close but I like the voron cube corners

[rocky ember]

time for EM now

[rocky ember]

hehe

[rocky ember]

best one for EM is -0.3

[rocky ember]

time to do door hinges

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon first semi long print

[uneven canyon]

Very cool. just keep an eye on it until you get comfortable. 🙂

[rocky ember]

thats what the janky phone ip webcam is for XD

without it i keep getting up from my chair going to admire it and come back every 5 min ( im lying more like every 2min)

[uneven canyon]

You get to the point where you dont even think about it anymore and come back the next morning to say "Oh yeah, i did print that"

[rocky ember]

soon hopefully XD

im gonna make keyboards with it im planning

[uneven canyon]

Just don't let @barren cedar know 🙂

[rocky ember]

oh no why not ?

[gleaming loom]

He will show you all kinds of shiny keyboards to build, right @wanton sail and @teal mulch?

[barren cedar]

⌨️ ⌨️ ⌨️ ⌨️ ⌨️ ⌨️

[uneven canyon]

I was actually suggesting that you do 🙂

[rocky ember]

split keyboards look sick

[teal mulch]

Yis and you will do fun shiny things

[gleaming loom]

We are building Lily58s 🙂

[barren cedar]

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/559678236481814548/981290781669199882/24488245-3FDF-44C1-9B19-8E23E508F874.gif

[uneven canyon]

I have all of these purple keys that I pulled out of my keyboard. I should build something with them

[rocky ember]

gotta look it up and see the possibility of me makin one the sadge thing is i cant find low profile switches so i gotta stick with normal ones

[rocky ember]

YOU DEF SHOULD

damn the lily58 does look super cool

[gleaming loom]

How many Erik might have an extra set of pcbs

[uneven canyon]

at least 100. LOL

[earnest aspen]

100 watts keeb

[rocky ember]

hand wire it

[earnest aspen]

[gleaming loom]

When is your uncle visiting again? /hj

[rocky ember]

XD next year

he comes once a year for 3 weeks

[barren cedar]

The above one gets close. Required a sata cable to power all the LEDs at max brightness.

Anyway bimo ping me any time in gchat if you want to talk keyboards. They were my main hobby for a long time and I know a modest amount about building them.

[rocky ember]

will def do when i start looking at which one to build thankss

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon is it normal that its not using any cooling ? like part cooling ?

its not moving from 0% when im looking in the mainsail interface

[uneven canyon]

Possibly normal. I am not sure what the default profiles in Orca have for that. You should ramp up cooling as you start to see difficulty with overhangs, never before that that, and you always want to error on the side of less cooling for the strongest parts

[rocky ember]

i am sorry but i dont understand that last part

ahhhhh nvmmm

i just caught it

its just that its not like a constant thing i guess

its 0 then for some instances it goes to 80

then goes back to 0 so i think im good

[uneven canyon]

Yep. Cooling is actually bad for strength, but we make a compromise to get acceptable overhang performance.

[rocky ember]

ahhh i seee makes sense if it cools too fast it will not bind to the other lines

got itt thanks

[uneven canyon]

yep. it will harden the plastic before it can adequately bond

[rocky ember]

need m3 hammer head tnuts to mount the door magnets will come tmrw and tmrw i will be submitting my serial req

[rocky ember]

flow rate is 25mm^3/s

[uneven canyon]

Thats one of those things that I don't wast my time testing independently. I push speeds on infil but keep sane speeds on perimeters. when I start to see issues on infill, I know I have hit the line and go maybe 15% below that as a max 🙂

[rocky ember]

it was a 10 min print cus i knew the ball park for a genuine x1c hotend so its not that much wasted time but i get you its just nice to know

[uneven canyon]

Yep, never hurts.

[rocky ember]

@uneven canyon

which one modelOnly or support ?

[uneven canyon]

the last one

[rocky ember]

Fresh

[gleaming loom]

your filament is moister than an oyster

[rocky ember]

Really ?

[gleaming loom]

looks good otherwise

[gleaming loom]

the stringing is moisture related

[rocky ember]

Let me take a closer pic on like the outside of the print not the supports

[gleaming loom]

OHHH you used supports all over that side too

[rocky ember]

I didnt do anything it just said to do supports so i clicked check thats all 😭

[gleaming loom]

Oh, if you downloaded the support model, it has them built in and you don't nee them in slicer 🙂

[rocky ember]

Is this a clear image

[rocky ember]

Bruh orca gave me a warning and said to check them 😭

It will still function no?

[gleaming loom]

yeah, it should be fine once the supports are removed

I think your filament is okay, it was the supports I saw that looked like stringing

[rocky ember]

Yayyy

Cus i dont want to buy a dryer at the moment 😭

[gleaming loom]

some have reported success drying in their printer by heating the bed and covering the spool with the filament box

[uneven canyon]

With that model, dont use your own supports 😉

[rocky ember]

If it comes down to it then i would do that

[rocky ember]

I didnt knoww 😭😭😭

[uneven canyon]

Its all a learning experience 🙂

[rocky ember]

supports all removed

next one will def be no supports these supports SUCK

but very functional

very nice print 10/10

[uneven canyon]

?

[rocky ember]

Will this video be okay ? Before i upload it

i dont get why when i upload smth to discord the quality goes 📉 📉 📉 📉

[uneven canyon]

I would send it

[rocky ember]

noice will do right now then

[rocky ember]

welp time to wake up the proxmox server so i can watch my printer from anywhere i want

[rocky ember]

No supports as intended

[gleaming loom]

Looks good!!!

[rocky ember]

Thankss im really happy with how its printing so far very much worth the effort and wait

[fiery igloo]

that little triangle at the hinge pops out, it's one of the built-in supports. If you close the jaws i think it'll find its own exit 🙂

prints are lookin' pretty good, you've done well

[uneven canyon]

Now it is time to finish panel clips and start printing spares!!

[rocky ember]

oh yeah it did pop right out

[rocky ember]

u are watching my screen

im gonna print one and see how it fits

cause idk i print one see if it works then print all of them

[uneven canyon]

do small batches at first. Better than having a failure

[rocky ember]

yupp o plan on printing like each panel's clips on its own i think thats a good amount

also i ordered a thermistor for the chamber

mom loved the dyno clips i gave them to her and she used them on the cats food bag hehe

now need to find a print for pops

[earnest aspen]

make yuuuuge printer. print micron sized batches

[rocky ember]

they are called baby steps

bruh bed mesh takes FOREVERRRR

[earnest aspen]

need adaptive mesh

[uneven canyon]

Only if you are watching the machine non-stop

[rocky ember]

SOOOO my situation exactly

i have this setup for a reason

[earnest aspen]

it's faster if you look away