#Fixing up a mistreated VORON Tridend - FIRST EVER BUILD
1 messages Ā· Page 2 of 1
Final bits printed
Theoretically this should be all I need to reassemble the printa
Started working on the belts. Learned 2 things:
- my X axis is more crooked than my town's police department
- the XY mount is weird and I should maybe just use the printed one, because this one has the bearings that the belts ride on loose, like, they can pull apart and stuff
they can pull apart and stuff
I'm not following. Those look like good gates idlers in the pictures.
Nonono, the bearings, lemme take a pic
Ok, you are just missing the shims to hold them together.
Lemme check
Yea thats missing a shim but otherwhise its fine
Theres like 3 or 4 mm of play
I suppose they are 1mm shims...
Oh yeah nvm yall are right its fine
XF
What a stupid mistake, forgetting shims...
At least I learned now rather than AFTER assembly
I shall never ever doubt anything anyone here says ever again
Yeah, I'm going to say 2mm of play taken up by 2x 1mm shims.
....okay smartypants /j
XD
(For legal reasons, that was a joke, I greatly appreciate the help)
Remember you still owe me those 2 bitcoins btw
RIGHT! Nearly forgot
NAAAAH DUDE my dealer scammed me tf is this xD
Didnt know I had the capacity to fuck up this bad
and another one 
I'd be lying if I said it's the first time I see this
its funny cause it happens to like every new builder
XD
instead of a days without work accidents we count the days without that kind of build error 
"Why does this movement feel so gritty-"
suffice to say but dont leave it like that
Also the disconnected motor wire could be an issue later 
Thats intentional
Dont wanna spin the motor, cuz I dont know if the driver would appreciate acting as a generator
I know they probably got diodes there
But still
good!
My X axis seemed square, but after installing the belt, its crooked, I assume thats not normal? Or is that just caused by the belt pulling on one side unevenly?
is it just me or is that belt not parallel to the extrusion on both sides? š¤
linear rail as well, doesn't seem fixed at the ends
thats fine it will go away once you install both belts and tension them equally
Correct. With the positions of the bearings/idler thats the only way that could go
yea might wanna think about using printed xy joints then.
aliexpress stuff is doing aliexpress stuff and the designer of those parts might have just used the completly wrong belt spacing then what voron uses for their current version
Thats just old lube making it look like that. The rail is fixed
I have printed XY joins
Should I use those instead?
yea then id suggest you use them!
I knew it was a good idea to print them
having belts not parallel to the extrusion will cause all kinds of accuracy issues that you will never be able to get rid of
Are the belts not supposed to go over the front of that mount then out the back? I dunno if thatās possible or if it would correct the belt alignment though
i .. yea .. something is off
@wide linden could you post pictures of both xy from the front?
Also. What tap is that?
vitali
seams correct .. yea go with the printed xy joints then
Alright yep. Belts are going the correct way on the TAP then.
yea thouse xy joints are just garbage
You know
Lets say
I had a hunch
That if the metal TAP was garbo, and the CNC joins would be garbo too
Seems like I might have some good ideas sometimes xD
na the tap is good since it presses the belt against the carriage. some thing that the stock stealthburner carriage does as well
Wait a minute⦠whatās the diameter of those toothed pulleys? The toothed section of it?
The one that WAS thwre
The chaotic lab one
oh .. maybe idk š¤
they look fine to me š¤
Iām wondering if they are the 16t ones instead of 20t. If so that would have the belts too far forward and be the issue.
ah yea could be
Bit awkward to measure, like 12-13mm?
or the aliexpress special xy joints are just bad
They should be 12mm diameter in the toothed section. So yea. Thats correct.
Eh. Was worth a shot. 
Hold up, I can tell you if they are 16T
oh yea!
As these are from Katten
No need. I just measured both of mine. š¤£
na if it where 20T it be thicker
9.5 for 16t. 20t is 12
Benefit of a lot of printers is. I have a lot of parts laying around. š¤£
yea lol
Yeah 20T
I ordered the correct idlers. Woooo. Bow before me
Anyways
I was secretly hoping to use the printed ones
Because they are GREEN
And thats the main reason Im building this printer
So thats its GREEN
Green printer that is definitely not good for your carbon footprint. 
black and green is an interesting color combo 
I wantes to do green and pink
But I couldnt find pink ASA
Ambrosia Filament's line of ASA filament is derived from 100% Virgin Grade-A Non-Toxic pellets. Manufactured to a tighter than standard tolerance (+/- 0.03mm) you'll experience consistent extrusion throughout the spool. Free of additives, this filamentĀ prints like butter. Want ASA with a bit of sparkle? We have it he
(I know your not in the US sadly)
Yeeee
I decided to do green and black
And maybe one day get back to green and pink if possible
black is the best color either way
That link is to the pink ASA. Lol
yea but shipping to europe would be meh
Itās ambrosia. Iām sure someone over there sells it.
but if your wiling to use abs 3djake has a pretty pink one: https://www.3djake.at/3djake/abs-pink-4?sai=21905
I also have a 30% discount on all Spectrum filaments, sooooo
Kinda hard to beat xD
Gotta shop around sometimes. Lol
CTech too, but I wouldn't trust them with shit xD
Maybe when I get an ABS capable printer xD
My own one, I mean
if you can print asa you most definatly can print abs too
Using the X1C is a PITA
Yeah I know, but I don't want to use the X1C more than I have to, it's a pain because I can't print more than 1 plate per day (whenever I finish my shift) and I have to pick up the parts the next morning
So printing there is a nightmare
Those are some pretty colors though
Big fan of these neon/hot colors
thats fair haha :D
I like my X1C. But Iām liking my newest build even better. Nearly 50 hours on it so far which equates to roughly 120 hours on a X1C. Itās a fast printer. Lol
Its a work X1C that we dont have time to maintain, so its not a fun machine
yea loving my Tridentbert .. prints soooooo nicely
but filled materials are like a super cheating code 
Oh I donāt maintain mine at all. š¤£. Itās got over 2k hours on it with little to no maintenance.
Idk how much ours has, but it needs a full round of maintainance and parts
Tridents are the king
yea! im hoping for my v2 to be equally as good
even if a bit slower cause toolchanger and all that
Dang it⦠unrelated to this log but it appears 300w is not enough power for 135c with 2 24v bed fans running 12v at 100%. 
I read up about all the different VORONs and the Trident seemed like the one for me
The flying gantry on the V2 is really cool, though
yea v2 gets points for beeing fun to look at but tridents are better for printing fast and at higher chamber temps :P
then again tridents suck if you intend to build a toolchanger (like i am right now)
do yourself a favour and use a washer here
I dont have M5x30 button heads, will socket heads here be okay or should I order BHCS?
Or use a washer, yeah
yea shcs will do fine with a washer
Not an issue
I got a morbillion of those
You have a Santa hat!
Its not scope creep, its timely enhacements
no 
perfect 
....you think so? XD
I do
Oh great old ones of the VORON discord, are my belts done correctly?
Well, Belt. Singular. For now
You didnāt do the thing. Youāre off to a great start! Donāt worry about tension until both belts are on.
The thing?
.
You didnāt have to admit to it. 
So its correct and I can snip snip the belts
Nah, Im many things but not a liar
Leave a bit excess. Like 1-2cm. But yes.
looks good!
Hell yeah! Well. Goodbye extra belt.
yea id leave about 1cm each side
well leave 4cm each side
its a lot easier to shorten lengths once both are actually properly installed then adding length if you cut them to short 
I did 3
I thought I was being cleaver leaving a bit more
Xd
yea good enough
yep
and make sure to cut both belts to the exact same length .. as in the same teeth count!
same teeth count is super important
Ill keep it in mind. The VORON manual was very clear about that too
XD
I should count the teeth, huh?
Sigh
Here we go....
no just put it on the ground and tape it on one side to the ground and see that its the same length
there is also this if you wanna make totally absolutly sure

do that on the ground but yea
Wait
Why not do that
On the ground
By meshing the belts
oh with that it doesnt matter
but if you dont have that then put them on the ground. tape them on one side
No like
Why not place the belts on the ground
One belt flat side on the ground
The other lying on it, the teeth meshing
And then cutting 1 tooth ahead on the top belt
Or hell
In my fingers
I think @rigid token mentioned that
In fingers is what I do
yea i mean everyone has their own method š
Uhh, hope I didnt upset you by thinking of my method
oh no! just saying ask 3 people and you will get 4 answers :D
XD
Ask 1 person and you get 20 different answers sometimes. 
Yea true 
Okay I am 99.99% sure they are the same length
Then should be fine then
Its easy enough to take them back out later to check again with the printed g2 belt length matcher if the need arrises!
I presume there is no way to know that they are the wrong length after installing?
Like how do I know thats the isssue
If you have to tension one belt more then the other to remove belt induced racking then you know that both belts arent equally long
they should be sticking out the same length on both sides!
looks like you would need to pull the lower belt one tooth out more on both sides
Just the ones above one another, yeah?
Thats the case, just a weird camera angle
kk just make sure that belts are pulled out the exact same length on top and bottom
yea then looks good just looks a bit weird on camera
And the ones on the right have 9 teeth
thats perfect š
I've made a lot of progress today
I've 100% finished the gantry, including belt tuning
And I've started working on the toolhead, but that still needs a lot of work (mostly because the wiring on the old one was SHITE and I want to do better, so I need to cut down the wires a bunch and really properly organize them on the A4T
a4t is gonna serve you very well š
I hope so. The A4T seems like a really good design. I'll probably be rebuilding it at some point with a different hotend (don't want to keep bambu long term)
I JUST SPENT FUCKING
2 HOURS
TRYING TO GET THE ORCASLICER 1.3.2 APPIMAGE TO LOAD
ONLY TO FIND OUT IT CAME WITH THE WRONG FUCKING WEBKIT LIBRARY
I'M GOING TO STRANGLE SOMEBODY
https://www.printables.com/model/1192440-belt-runner-gt2-belt-length-matcher late to the party but this exists
Jakob sent that too
Looks pretty good!
No obvious errors?
If not, then its time for the final sanity checks and then powering the machine on
OH GOD DAMN IT
.
WELP
Guess Im glad I found these were shit sooner rather than later
Maybe double check thouse wires, seams like one has a flipped polarity
The left side one is a thermistor⦠it has no polarity.

Put a tiny bit of weight on one of the corners and it instantly snapped
Was moving the bed by rotating the screws. Noticed a white mark on the mount, which is what styrenes do when they stretch and get damaged
More like the layers delaminated, but yk
Ah ups
Everything is assembled IMO. I assume I have to snip the belt?
After that, anything else before I plug it in?
longer is better because it makes putting the belts on later a lot easier
but it leave it be fore now and do a couple test prints
can always jut it shorter later on
can also ziptie them to the wires on the toolhead
Okay yea
I was worried theyd interfere with sensorless homing
maybe but try it and can always cut the shorter later
you can do this!
have you plugged in your toolhead? looks like its not plugged in? š¤
ah okay okay!
Hmmm
I cant seem to connect to the klipper interface
And the little screen says
The message changed
might be a good idea to open the web interface and send us the log file
Yeah I am trying to connect to the web interface but I can't
Hmmm, I can connect to the BTT KNOMI settings
no not the knomi settings menu. Klipper has its own webinterface (using either mainsail or fluidd) that lets you controll the printer
I am attempting to connect to 192.168.50.200:80, but the connection is timing out
I know, I am trying to get there
But I cannot
machine is hardwired via an etherne cable i assume?
ah! yea please connect an ethernet cable directly ot the pi and try again
ah you have a manta .. yea connect the cable directly from your router to the manta's ethernet port
Hmmm
Still nothing
Even though it KNOMI says its connected
I'M IN
Idfk why but the IP was different than what I set it to in knomi
a little Linux Terminal -> NMap did the trick
afaik the ip in the knomi is just so that the knomi knows the ip address of the printer
but i basically nothing about the knomi so i could be wrong here
mhm
check if its configured correctly ([fan] section in the config)
steppers are turning correctly
looked. The pin seems to be correct (PA1)
just PA1?
That's the pin
or "ebb Name":PA1
seams to be ok
Hmm
When I try to home Z klipper says "ENDSTOP STILL TRIGGERED AFTER RETRACT
It says that the Z endstop is triggered
It's probably a config issue but I can't seem to crack it
If anyone has any ideas I'd be overjoyed to hear em
So it seems I have 2 issues:
- Hotend fan not working
- Z home not working
Average fystec quality ig 
isnt that a diode with the label d3?
Yep
Resoldering it fixed it
IT WORKS
THE TAP WORKS
in case you arent aware: https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Mesh.html#adaptive-meshes
just make sure to enable "exclude objects" in the slicer
#klipper_kalico_discussion message
A guide for setting up CANBus hardware on 3D printers
try whatever esoterical suggested and if that doesnt help maybe ask in #can_and_usb_toolhead_boards
(but if i had to bett i would say the btt pi clone is to blame)
Ahh okay makes sense
Thanks a lot!
I just need to figure out the hotend fan
And then
Guess what?
Time to benchy
dino clip!
@frank pasture we need you
the new meta .. they are just as usable for printer calibration and can be used afterwards instead of landing in the garbage
Hm. Interesting
I dont trash my benchies, i like showing them off
Like trophies
But yeah
Down with benchie!!!!!
Thanks for the tip :F
Even if you are going to keep them, they serve no real purpose other than tuning. Since there are better options, we can be better stewards to our environment š
You know, youre right
Partly the reason I got into vorons
These machines, 3d printers I mean, are amazing tech, but they produce a lot of waste
Even more so when you need to trash an entire machine just because a part that is no longer in production broke
Hey, I am no activist. I can waste plastic like the best of them. I am just not going to intentionally do it. It is just sometimes difficult to get people to change their ways when they have seen benchy for years.
You may not be an activist, but I am xD
So yeah, youre right
So.... no more benchies? Spread the love of dino-clip?
Find something better than dino for tuning and I am all ears š
Congrats, you fax'd and logik'd me
You now need to figure out if it was intentional. Looking forward to the serial vid! 
Hopefully soon
I wont do the serial video until I can get a good print
I still need to figure out the hotend fan
Serials are meant to be proof of life. Nothing more. Nobody wants to see a "good" print.
And then try extruding plastic
I do xD
I want the serial to be the final thing I do, after I know I dont have to take the machine apart anymore
I want to see you have good prints too. I am just saying that vehicles get their VIN before they ever get doors, or an interior. Serials are like that. š
Thanks for the info! I kinda assumed that you need to be able to produce an actual decent print
Im just sitting here, moving the toolhead around
Like a kid with an RC car xD
The goal is to show that the machine is functional "Proof of life" and that it is cable managed, etc above the deck and in the chamber.
Slowly!
Im doing it through Fluidd
Not manually
Just.... admiring the fact that I built something that moves
then you will never do a serial print 
Cool I was worried I would have to post this
The fact I dont have to doesnt mean I wont xD
OOOOF
having a serial is fun, gives you acces to a bunch of differnt stuff
Yeah I unplugged the motors when I was running thr belts
Due to fear of generator
XD
Like?
Other than bragging rights
O_O;
Is there a secret society of serial havers?
Will I get to join the FOSS revolution?
Not a secret society. a society with secrets. Its not like it isn't advertised all over the place š
i can not confirm nor deny such a secrete society
good 
....like I didnt before xD
our secrete plan has worked
Damn, I really am about to join a cult, huh?
It always does
Eh, fuck it, sounds fun
Wha
its not a cult its a cult
its a sign im sure 

Now back to wheels before I freak people out. LOL
I have evidence
Like a blurry photo of bigfoot
:D
You are more than welcome to ask me questions about that as well. I didn't pull that avatar out of my butt š
You know, Ill wait until Im a part of the.... fan club
gotta join the cult club to be a part of it!
but fun fact none of my printers, that i currently still own, have a serial 
Gotta figure out this hotend
TREASON!
RELEASE THE DOGS!
only my first v2 is serialized and the new owner never transfered the serial :)))
i hope he never does lol
Would you be ousted out of the... club?
I will get my second v2 a serial number one of these days. Jank is happy where his is, happily printing camera mounts and chewing through cheap ABS.
all 3 are gonna get serials ... at some point in the future maybe
Or is it a permanent membership
I'll set up some sort of honorary serial transfer to you if that ever happens 
na i just need to serial my 2.5 working printers
well technically its 1.8 working printers
I have 3 working at the moment. and I am going to regret saying that.
about to be 2 if you keep talking
Bro's printers are float instead of int š
well my trident technically works but its heater is broken
my v0 is technically a working printer
and my v2 is .. well not yet build
but panza is coming in clutch and il be getting new heaters tomorrow 
Tick Tock?
hey now im not that young 
Tick Tock is for sub 20 years old
by that metric im old
I have 2.5 as well, and work has two half printers ATM 
From memory, you are 28?
almost, 26 š
XC
Sorry. It is hard keeping up with you whippersnappers
I have a friend who's 33. We (friend group 20-25) keep calling her "grandma" xD
Still young š (I've only got 5.5 years on you)
I am mentally 14 if that counts for anything.
ey same!
one brain cell and a mental age of 12 describes about half this server (including me ofc) 
This is my sister (29) at her work. All her coworkers are college students lol
I feel like we are taking over @wide linden's build thread and feel bad about it.
Fuck no this is amazing
One collective brain cell 
this is gchat 2 now
The community IS a part of the build
ah yes same brain cell think allike 
We are like orange cats, we pass the one functional brain cell back and forth constantly
Gray cats are best cats
A single Raspberry Pi 3 running the brains of everyone on this server. The SD card died long ago, and the RAM is full of garbage from a program with a memory leak.
hey now in todays market you just take the ram off and sell it seperatly
just gotta remember to .. ugh .. well
Yeah! 8GB ram gets you like, a V0 kit xD
š
minium that
I had an orange and calico brother and sister when I was growing up, and my wife had two black cats. Love grey cats too though
I love all cats. Cats are the best
black is still the best color 
Especially if you raise them right and theyre all snuggly and affectionate
Whoa. Void with eyes.
its nothing with a very empty belly 
Before wheels, we had āBirdā
I'm now partial to bunnies
Damn. Didnt know they released cat 2.
He just posted that because he knew I was going to ask
Had a maintenance guy at our last apartment (on two separate occasions!!!) come into our apartment, see the black Lionhead and say verbatim "I thought that was a damn cat"
The same maintenance guy?
Yes lmao
Same guy did and said the same exact thing twice
After reading yāallās dialog yesterday, I am convinced
this abs gf is so nice to print
I wont be able to do the final few bits of tuning pre-first print until next week due to uni exams :/
Good luck
I just finished mine, good luck ā”
I just learned I'll need to take the toolhead apart
I tried giving 24V directly to the hotend fan, no dice
Seems that I may have crushed a wire somewhere
Either that or the fan I got is broken
I'll also have to buy a new X axis rail
The one I have fuckin SUUUUCKS
Towards the edges, it feels gritty
im sure @jade kernel can sell you a good one 
his contact sells og hiwins and airtacs for like pretty good prices
or else youmetongs on aliexpress is a go too as well
If a community member is getting a cut, I'd rather buy from them
dont think he is getting one he just likes us spending money 
xd
but the airtac mgn9 rail that i have is stupidly smooth.
sounds like exactly what I need for the X-axis xD
HELLO
That's the new rail you just picked up right??
Using them for all axis or just Y?
Right now just for y but im planning on getting them for x and z as well
Good news! While taking a study break, I found out why my fan wasn't working!
Bad news! I need a new brain, because this one is clearly defective. I plugged a 5V fan into a 24V output on the EBB36 xD
So yeah the moment I powered it on I instantly killed a really nice Delta fan xD

Easy mistake to make but damn that sucks
Yeah I kinda didn't realize the EBB only has 24V fan ports, so I absentmindedly put the hotend fan into one of the fan ports, not realizing they're all 24V
If I had plugged it into the RGB port I'd've been fine xd
Yea thats how most of us power a 5v fan :/
Youve got spares or going to have to order a new one?
I'll have to order a new one unfortunately

Yea could use it for now
If it heat creeps you will notice quickly
But definatly order one (or better yet two) fans anyways
Idk if I feel like potentially taking apart an Orbiter to remove jammed filament xD
If you want one before christmas maybe ask panzkatten in dms if he can overnight ship you a new one lol
He has saved my christmas building plan twice now in two weeks lol
That wouldn't make it here all the way from sweden, no way.
But I shouldn't be using christmas to build anyway
(Uni exams)
My plans are to try to get my Uni exams done within the first half of January and then fully finish this thing
Fedex will do it easily. Hes shipping me spare parts over night. He dropped them of today and fedex is planning to deliver tomorrow by 6pm
Katten really is a bro xD
He truly is
Fuck it, I'll put in the 24V one just to test the machine.
Could put the retractions real low to try to help preventing heat creep
Hopefully I don't perma kill the orbiter xD
Okay so we are printing, however...
I believe I remember something about having to break in the TAP?
yea good idea to do a couple taps for it all to settle down
but it does looks pretty okay. that part where filament is missing might be extruder related
During the print, I heard the nozzle dragging accross the bed
Yea. Home, move to middle if not already in the middle. Then run PROBE SAMPLES=200 to break it in. That will take a while.
eh kinda looks like its a bit to close
What should be the max deviation between samples?
On 200 samples on a new tap? Ignore it. lol. Normally. Itāll be less than 0.001 for 10 samples.
yea run the 200 samples and then start looking at deviations
also if your using kalico there is an option to ignore the first probe result
Yeah I got no clue wtf this is
I tried playing with the Z offset while printing a flat plate to sort of judge the Z offset live
It almost looks like its extruding way less plastic than it should be?
E steps, maybe?
At what temp do you tap?
150
Hmm try to run a mesh of the bed two or three times, and see if the results agree or not
This way you can guess what the issue is
Whole screen plz, we care about the numbers on the right
Click on the preview
Discord is cutting it off
Ah im dumb dumb
Yea looks usable
Not great but usable and bedmesh will work just fine here
Okay yeah my extruder was off by 40% xD
ah yea makes sense
highly suggest you do one loop of the ellis tuning guide https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html
How could it have been off by that much?
Omg did the prev. Owner have the esteps this wrong and make up for it with an extrusion multiplier?
XD
likely
Or it was missing the gear ratio.
but just use the provided orbiter 2 config that orbiter provides and call it a day as far as klipper config goes
....pfff
https://www.orbiterprojects.com/orbiter-v2-0/ -> 3.3 Klipper firmware configuration
use them, makes things easier
Okay so I corrected the config, all I changed was the rotation of the extruder, and then I got a timer too close error during pre-print calibration, now I'm getting this error:
Can not update MCU 'mcu' config as it is shutdown
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Error configuring printer
ye just click restart a couple of times
mcu config is shut down is just klipper beeing funny
Happens every time I restart
....really? seems to be missing the gear_ratio config
Oh okay we are back
huh
your right
weird
maybe the klipper default is fine
but i havent used an oribter in a while so no idea what the correct value would be
Okay how do I fuck off the screen?
I don't need the tiny little screen and it's only putting strain on the printer
witch one?
the knomi thingy?
Yes
The tiny Knomi circle display
might just be as simple as unplugging it
Do I just disconnect it?
Huh... the printer almost looks like its extruding unevenly
Like the lines vary in thickness
Like as if the filament was complete shit
mhm
seams like its not extruding correctly
what temps are you printing and what material?
Yeah.
220 PLA
Kinda hot
But not that hot
Behaves the same, somehow
But the amount the filament moves is correct
Could there be a leak
it looks like id expect a partially clogged nozzle to look like
?
Uhuh. Cold pull maybe?
could be worth a shot yea
i mean this red circled part is defiantly to close to the bed
have you tuned the z offset yet?
but maybe not doable if its extruding like that
That part is so close to the bed its perma stuck in there xD
I cant get it out
Its from an old print
just print over it and it will be gone after a print or two
Okay so I may have figured this out, maybe, but I can't test my theory
When I assembled my toolhead, I mistakenly tightened the two screws that hold the bambu hotend in place wayyy too much, and the screws are now loose and can move around as the plastic is weak and cracked.
The hotend is now moving a lot, meaning that it can't remain in place to properly extrude plastic
This means that I'll need to re-print the toolhead, which will cost me weeks as I don't have access to the work printer for the time being.
In fact, I want to not use the bambu hotend at all. I do not trust it. So while i'm at it I'll look for a place that would ship me a new hotend.
Toolhead reprinted, Ill try fixing it tomorrow
It didn't help
I tried using the exact config as stated on the orbiter v2 page
It.... extruding one half of what it should no matter what I set the rotation distance to?
Check the logs. Maybe you have a duplicate [extruder] section that is overwriting it.
There's only one in the config
Here's my log and printer.cfg if anyone is willing to take a look
Oh my fucking god I figured it out
This thumbscrew was loose
Kill me
Somebody
Please
ALL THIS FUCKING WORK
ALL THE HOURS
THE TWO SLEEPLESS NIGHTS OF ME FUCKING WITH THE CONFIG AND CHECKING EVERY POSSIBLE THING
ALL BECAUSE OF ONE LOOSE SCREW
The printer didnt have enough grip on the filament
Soit extruded well-ish when I jammed it in manually
But when it was moving and printing
The filament was slipping and not actually being pulled by the extruder
@flint veldt I did it.
omg haha
It was worth it for this one gif.
I'll finish printing one layer of the whole-bed-cube to check everything's fine
Then prusaclip
hell yea!
Fucking hell.... I can't believe this was the problem XDD
In hindsight, it's obvious
yeaaa it always the super basic stuff that no one thinks to ask
I figured out this was the issue by trying to manually push the filament into the extruder while printing
And then, to my surprise, it printed well
I though "Huh, are the gears maybe completely wrecked and can't hold the filament?"
Then I looked at the extruder and thought "hey that thumbscrew is supposed to hold the gear in place what happens if I...."
And then it just started printing as it should
My expression was literally:
._.
your gonna have that expression many more times believe me
(āÆĀ°ā”°)āÆļøµ ā»āā»
is also a favourite of mine 
That expression came a few seconds after xD
ā¬āā¬ć( Āŗ _ Āŗć)
Okay and now I need to figure out how to set up SSH access on this machine so that I can mess with the files and processes xD
Isn't one of the steps explicitly called out to make sure that's tensioner and engaged properly :p
Maybe in the Stealthburner docs
But not in the A4T tutorial
Ladies, gentlemen, and most importantly, cyborgs
Feast your eyes upon the first ever successful print of Digit, my VORON Trident:
thats pretty good for a first print of a "new" machine!
Especially for a first time build, and especialy for what the machine was
how do you mean? š¤
Look at the video above
Though it seems more like the feet are way too soft
The printer is moving a lot.
Thatās why I use HULA feet. Our Vorons use a much higher accel than most printers out there. They move a lot.
sooo for flow calibration. id recommend you use orca slicer and the build in flow calibration! Print the Pass1 at first to get it close enough and then print Pass2 to narrow it down even more.
When you do flow calibration make sure that you have the filament temperature somewhat correct and also that the filament is (fully) dry
And for the frame .. cant really tell other then the printer is vibrating a bit
Oh yeah that looks like something I should be using
It just looks like it's moving more than the printers I'm used to, but then again, VORONs are really big machines... so
ĀÆ_(ć)_/ĀÆ
I'll do a whole calibration suite once I'm done with my Uni exams
ah yea thats true haha. a bit of vibrations is expected and its often worse if you print very slow
yep. I just use the switchwire feet replacement as they are a direct replacement over the stock rubber feet
Why not the Trident ones?
Cause I didn't want to redo the whole foot. Lol
I would think the Trident ones would be a direct replacement, not the switchwire ones...?
Kind of odd xd
The switchwire ones are literally just the rubber foot but printed. So they can replace anything that uses the rubber feet we use on the Vorons.
Calibrations going well. Only thing I still need to figure out is how to SSH into the printer, because I didn't set up the soft that's on it, so I'm not even sure I can setup an SSH tunnel within Fluidd
you would first off all need the password to the linux user. If the original owner used the raspberry pi os then the default user might be pi and the default password might be raspberry. If that doesnt work you could contact the original owner and ask for the username + password and if they dont know then (as far as i know) a complete reinstall is your only option.
Ofc ssh needs to be enabled in the first place. With raspberry pi os you can do that by adding a blank file called ssh in the boot partition on the sd card (ref)
Contacted the OG user, if he doesnt know, then itll suck, but I wanted to install kalico anyway
Theoretically, it would just be a reinstall of the OS + Kalico on the CB1 in this case, right? Since everything else is already flashed
I was kinda hoping I could do this from Fluidd, but I know that would be a gynormous security vulnerability
Yes. And donāt forget to backup your config
Use the cb1 minimal image and KIAUH to install everything.
Thanks for the tip. Might be a good idea to reinstall in general, honestly
This Klipper install is.... pretty bloated
Has some shit that seems completely unnecessary
Maybe, it depends
Figured it would be too easy if it did
if your current klipper version is old enough klipper/kalico might force you to update your mcus as well
Luckily flashing mcuās isnāt hard
yea once they have klipper installed on them its pretty damn easy
yea just make SURE to backup and cfg file that you might need like printer.cfg or macro.cfg files or whatever
Or better yet you use a new sd card and keep the old one as a backup š
also @wide linden id recommend you backup your config on a regular basis either way using something like this -> https://github.com/EricZimmerman/Voron-Documentation/blob/main/community/howto/EricZimmerman/BackupConfigToGithub.md
please also download that zip file š
Yeah good idea
I thought that was obvious
cause once you reflash the sd card everything will be gone
you never know 
You can also post that zip here to have a backup that will last ridiculously long.
it has saved me more then once by now and its pretty neet to have a history of all the changes that you made
Even better, create your own discord server where you can keep channels, images, links, and blackmail photos
I have that for some stuff, but I am 3000 steps ahead of you all and have a cheap Ubuntu server for running tabletop RPGs as well as filehosting >:D
According to the CB1 docs, the root account deets should be "root" "root"
And knowing the OG builder, that probably wasn't changed
First failed print, and not due to the printer, but because the filament tangled š
This seems like a good upgrade honestly
xD
Guess I got 2 coasters out of it at least xd
Yea something like that would do the job
I think I have seen others have some complaints with that sensor specifically.
Really now?
LDO and Orbiter are both really big names
ive personally been using bigtreetechs sfs 2.0 with great success
Ill need to figure out a decent place to mount it. Id ideally want it on the toolhead so I dont need to run wires all the way to the electronics bay, but with how this one is designed it doesnt look like an option
I've run into a small issue. For some reason, my printer refuses to ZHop
I've configured it in the slicer, and I've tried disabling firmware retraction (as some reddit post suggested), but to no avail, my nozzle is dragging HARD
Especially visible on top surfaces
Use thick plates so your frame is over 100 kilos. It wonāt move as much
Im going to turn it into an MLG compilation
That got me too when I did the micron serial. Consider it a merit badge!
i forgot as well... a iploaded a short video to yt and linked it in the serial request
Im remaking the whole thing

