Problems finding the printer's IP address.

[craggy stratus]

Not right now

But when the error appears, I'll take a picture of it

[waxen agate]

Basically, your current print start is doing stupid stuff. The better print start macro fixes that. But needs a chamber thermistor to work properly.

[craggy stratus]

So, the fact that the hotend isn't heating up and I'm getting that error, is because I don't have the macro installed that I need for the chamber thermistor?

[minor portal]

post your current PRINT_START macro

[minor portal]

is that it? no wonder your hotend isn't heating

[craggy stratus]

So what do I need to put in to heat up the hotend?

[minor portal]

a bare minimum of M109 Sxxx where xxx is the desired temperature of the hotend

but you're also missing setting the heated bed temperature, qgl, bed mesh, etc, unless you have a custom G32 macro?

a better print start macro is definitely the way to go

[craggy stratus]

That's the guide I followed before, but the thing is, when I get to this part (the capture part), I don't know what data replaces the XXX

[minor portal]

i see above that you don't have a chamber thermistor, so none of that is relevant

because of this, you'll need to comment out or delete these two lines from the PRINT_START macro on that page:

SET_DISPLAY_TEXT MSG="Heatsoak: {target_chamber_wait}c"  # Display info on display
TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor chamber" MINIMUM={target_chamber_wait}   # Waits for chamber temp```

[craggy stratus]

Could this be the cable for the chamber thermistor?

[waxen agate]

no

that's a grounding strap for your extruder motor

[minor portal]

no, that looks like some kind of grounding wire

[craggy stratus]

And I suppose this isn't either, right?

[minor portal]

nope, rpi wifi aerial

[minor portal]

you're looking for something like either one of these, assuming the kit vendor supplied one

[craggy stratus]

Where can I buy it?

[minor portal]

amazon? aliexpress?

[minor portal]

head over to #rules and grab your country's flag so we can maybe suggest vendors in your region

[minor portal]

i don't know of vendors in spain, but i do know that onetwo3d ship to eu

[minor portal]

or ask for advice in https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1046795200271499264

[craggy stratus]

I assume each thermistor is designed for a specific printer, right?

[waxen agate]

no

they are mostly generic and interchangeable. as long as you know the defined type they can be integrated into klipper.

your manta has several spare thermistor ports to plug into

[craggy stratus]

https://amzn.eu/d/d349PVG

For example, this thermistor is compatible with the printers mentioned in the title, but it's also compatible with others, right?

[waxen agate]

yes, that will do the job fine

[craggy stratus]

Ok

[minor portal]

sure

[craggy stratus]

Okay. But before we buy it, are we sure this is the reason the hotend temperature isn't rising and not a problem with the startup G-code?

I ask because I thought the problem might be the print startup G-code

[minor portal]

yes, i'm sure it's the PRINT_START, there's nothing in there to tell either the heated bed or hotend to heat up

but like i said yesterday, we can get it running without the need for a chamber thermistor for now and add it later

[craggy stratus]

Ok

[minor portal]

see #1436004447682826330 message

[craggy stratus]

But when I get the camera's thermistor, I'll have to add those lines to my printer.cfg file, right?

[minor portal]

correct, as well as this #1436004447682826330 message

[craggy stratus]

And where it says XXX I have to replace it with some data, right?

[minor portal]

yes, it'll be the pin name of wherever you plug in the thermistor from the pinout diagram for your mcu

[craggy stratus]

Once I have the thermistor, where on the printer do I install it?

[waxen agate]

a good place for starters is poking out the Z cable chain

about half way up its travel

[craggy stratus]

What? I'm not at home right now and I don't have the Voron in front of me, so I can't get a clear idea of ​​what you're saying

I think I know more or less, but I'm not sure

[craggy stratus]

What do I do in that area of ​​the chain?

[waxen agate]

feed the chamber thermistor up, so it pokes out around there

[craggy stratus]

Do you mean putting the cable on that chain, but making it stick out where you circled it in the photo?

[waxen agate]

the sensor at the end of it would be sticking out, yes

[craggy stratus]

When I have the sensor and I'm about to install it, if I have any questions I'll let you know

[craggy stratus]

I already have the chamber thermistor. Where does it connect on the Manta board?

[waxen agate]

any of the spare thermistor ports, circled in pink

then you will need a config block like this:

sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PB0
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 100
gcode_id: chamber_th

that is if you use PB0, the second port from the bottom

[craggy stratus]

Thanks

I've changed a few things in the printer.cfg file, and now the print bed heats up, but the hotend takes a long time to warm up. Here's my printer.cfg file

I've also encountered several errors where it couldn't detect commands starting with STATUS, and we've discussed them all

[minor portal]

what have you changed? can we get a klippy.log?

[minor portal]

i'll ask again, what have you changed?

[craggy stratus]

I commented out all the commands that began with STATUS_ because the printer did not recognize them

[minor portal]

it looks like you need to download and include stealthburner_leds.cfg for the STATUS_... commands to work

[minor portal]

have you ran pid tune for the hotend?

[craggy stratus]

Yes

[waxen agate]

your temperature graphs look fairly normal

[craggy stratus]

I think that the problem of the long waiting was that there was a line of g-code that told it to wait 5 min to stabilize the bed temperature

We followed the first step on this page: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/Firmware/stealthburner_leds.cfg

But we don't know what value to put in [neopixel sb_leds] for the second step

[minor portal]

you said "the hotend takes a long time to warm up", that was confusing

[minor portal]

you need to update the line pin: 'enter_your_led_data_pin_name' in the [neopixel sb_leds] section to the port that the sb neopixels are plugged into

[craggy stratus]

So we should say that the data pin is this one in the [neopixel sb_leds] section, right? And if this is the case, how should it be written?

[minor portal]

the pin names are in ()s

[craggy stratus]

So apparently, the pin is aleredy used here (in printer.cfg) for more or less the same thing:

[neopixel toolhead_light]
pin: EBBCan:gpio16
chain_count: 3
color_order: GRBW

But we don't think it's a really good idea to uncomment these lines

[fierce rover]

@craggy stratus When posting configs or logs, please surround with code fences (```) so that Discord formats them correctly. Example:
```ini
[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-klipper-12345-if00
```

[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-klipper-12345-if00

[craggy stratus]

Oh, I'm sorry

[minor portal]

that section is defining a neopixel string with a different name, toolhead_light, stealthburner_leds.cfg assumes the name will be sb_leds by default

[craggy stratus]

Okay

Thanks

[minor portal]

yw

[craggy stratus]

Hello everyone. I installed an ADXL345 accelerometer and recompiled Klipper with the configuration shown in the screenshot, following this manual, which is for the accelerometer: https://3d.nice-cdn.com/upload/file/BIGTREETECH_ADXL345_V2.0_User_Manual.pdf

I connected the accelerometer to the Manta M8P via USB while holding down the BOOT1 button, and now the Voron screen is black, and I've lost the printer connection in MobaXterm. Does anyone know what might have happened?

I also don't want to turn off the printer as it is because I don't want to corrupt the SD card

[waxen agate]

if you can't get in over SSH, your choices are either to reboot the printer using klipperscreen (i can't remember if you have this) or a power cycle

[craggy stratus]

Yes, I have Klipperscreen, but it's not working right now

But if I turn the printer off and then back on, won't that corrupt the SD card on the Manta board?

[waxen agate]

there is always a risk, but you don't have any other choice right now

[craggy stratus]

Ok

[craggy stratus]

We haven't had any problems turning the printer off and on this way.

What I don't understand is that following the instructions in the accelerometer manual (the manual in the message I'm replying to) didn't work, which I find very strange, because we followed all the steps correctly and didn't do anything else. At most, to recompile the firmware, we typed make clean

[waxen agate]

does the single board computer see the accelerometer board at all, if you run lsusb

[craggy stratus]

No

[waxen agate]

are you sure? there is an rp2040 device there, what else could that be

[craggy stratus]

But do you know if the accelerometer I installed has that processor?

Because I understand that rp2040 is a processor, right?

[craggy stratus]

I'm a little confused about that part, because I'm not sure if that processor is for the accelerometer or the SB board

[waxen agate]

at the most basic: look at the accelerometer. does it have a raspberry logo on one of the chips

[craggy stratus]

Yes

[waxen agate]

and nothing else you have told us about has an rp2040 chip, so therefore the accelerometer is the rp2040 device

so next, run ls /dev/serial/by-id/*

[craggy stratus]

This is the output

[waxen agate]

so the accelerometer already has klipper on it

[craggy stratus]

So how do we proceed?

What I need now is to calibrate the input shaping

[waxen agate]

follow the rest of the accelerometer instructions for putting that ID into your printer.cfg

[craggy stratus]

I tried updating the accelerometer firmware with the command make flash FLASH_DEVICE=my ID, but this is the result. There were some errors

And now I've run this command because the instructions say that for USB communication, I have to run it to flash the firmware, instead of running the other one

[waxen agate]

the thought occurs to me that your toolhead PCB already has an accelerometer built into it

[craggy stratus]

The SB electronic board?

[waxen agate]

yes

[craggy stratus]

Yes, it does

So, what are the next steps considering that the SB board has the accelerometer?

[waxen agate]

so you'd need to have in your config something like this:

cs_pin: EBBCan:gpio1                   
spi_software_sclk_pin: EBBCan:gpio2    
spi_software_mosi_pin: EBBCan:gpio0    
spi_software_miso_pin: EBBCan:gpio3   
axes_map: z,-y,x                       

[resonance_tester]                    
probe_points: 125, 125, 20             
accel_chip: adxl345   ```

those probe points are correct for a 300 build

[craggy stratus]

The print volume of my Voron is 250 x 250 x 250 mm, not 300

[craggy stratus]

I see that I don't have that in the printer.cfg file

[waxen agate]

i have updated it for 250

[craggy stratus]

Ok

[craggy stratus]

Can I put those lines wherever I want in my printer.cfg file?

[waxen agate]

yes

[craggy stratus]

Ok

I have a question: is this manual (https://3d.nice-cdn.com/upload/file/BIGTREETECH_ADXL345_V2.0_User_Manual.pdf) compatible with the accelerometer integrated into the SB board?

[waxen agate]

there is nothing in that manual relevant to the integrated adxl

[craggy stratus]

So now I'm going to turn off the printer and remove the accelerometer I installed earlier

Once that's done, considering that the SB board comes with an integrated accelerometer, how do I calibrate the input shaping?

[waxen agate]

you are going to want to install shake+tune which is a much easier way of working with input shaper

https://github.com/Frix-x/klippain-shaketune?tab=readme-ov-file#installation

[craggy stratus]

Okay, thanks

[waxen agate]

then there is a workflow to follow: https://github.com/Frix-x/klippain-shaketune/blob/main/docs/README.md#resonance-testing-workflow

[craggy stratus]

Where the following code appears, some lines need to be uncommented, right?

[waxen agate]

only if you want to change things. it would tell you if things needed changing.

[craggy stratus]

What things?

[waxen agate]

it would tell you if you needed to change things...

[craggy stratus]

Are you referring to the input shaping parameters that are in the printer.cfg file?

I pasted the lines and when I restarted Klipper, it didn't tell me if I needed to change anything

[native meadow]

The settings that are shown there are the "default values"

Aka, "this is how this line will effectively be set if you dont Uncomment anything"

So you have the defaults, you have the descriptions

Which line do you wish to alter from default, and why?

[craggy stratus]

Modify it by changing the values? Is that what you mean?

[native meadow]

Yes

[maiden brook]

My wife disturbed me...

[tawdry karma]

Start with an ethernet cable, so much easier than the wifi route. once in and yo uhave the ip address with the cable. you can SSH into the printer and setup the wifi that way. so much easier for me.

[waxen agate]

wut

[minor portal]

❔

[calm lance]

I think that is a possible answer to the original question with zero of the context. 🙃

[tiny ginkgo]

Well, the context is very big

[calm lance]

it is. but it should be reasonably clear it is not the current issue at hand.

[tiny ginkgo]

That's true

[minor portal]

i'm guessing it was meant for https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1448544520219136173

[stray belfry]

Don't jump in and spoil this rollercoaster, this is one of my favourite reads.

[craggy stratus]

Hello everyone again. I haven't made any progress with the Voron printer for a week because I haven't had the time, and now when I try to connect to it from MainSail, the screen goes black (that's from OrcaSlicer), and then, when I try to access it from Chrome, it says: "This website could not be accessed."

But everything else works correctly

[minor portal]

how are you connecting, ip address or name?

[craggy stratus]

ip address

[minor portal]

does it have a static ip address?

[craggy stratus]

I don't know

[minor portal]

it's possible the ip address has changed if it's not static

is it visible on your network or from your router?

[craggy stratus]

I'm going to look

[native meadow]

Dynamic thing acts dynamic! Surprise!

[craggy stratus]

Well, when this problem happens again, I'll know it's because the IP address has changed. Anyway, you told me there was another way to connect, right?

[native meadow]

Yes. Generally you should be able to use the hostname instead.

[craggy stratus]

And how can I do that?

[native meadow]

I mean...you just do... there's not really a process

Just. Type the other thing

Do you know the hostname of your pi?

[craggy stratus]

I don't remember, but where can I look for it?

[native meadow]

If you can get back in via ssh, it's the part after the @ in the prompt

[craggy stratus]

Okay, thanks

[native meadow]

Once you have the name, say its "raspberrypi"

Then either raspberrypi or rasperrypi.local should work

Depending how your network is setup

[craggy stratus]

What are you referring to?

[native meadow]

I don't know what you're asking, sorry

[craggy stratus]

Don't worry. What I'm saying is that I don't know what you meant by what you said in this message and the next two

[native meadow]

1. Figure out your new ip address (sorry, gonna have to do that this time to find out what we need to know)
2. Ssh in
3. Grab a screenshot

[native meadow]

Okay.

So the hostname is "btt-cb1"

[craggy stratus]

Yes

[native meadow]

So head to your web browser, and try either http://btt-cb1 or http://btt-cb1.local

[craggy stratus]

It works

Thank you

Both links work

By the way, one thing. I've been thinking it would be a good idea to continue adjusting my printer using this guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/setting_expectations.html

Because the printer is already printing, but the quality needs adjusting. Would you agree (that I should continue with this guide)?

And I forgot to mention that I'm saying this because I've noticed that when the printer prints circular or semicircular shapes, it doesn't make perfect circles. I don't know if I'm explaining myself well

[native meadow]

I'm not sure I've been following all the events. But generally I'd say yes, working through the ellis guide is a good place to work on quality

[craggy stratus]

Would you say I should continue considering the problem I'm having right now is when the printer makes circular or semicircular shapes?

[native meadow]

What exactly is the problem

[craggy stratus]

The problem is this

[native meadow]

How not-circular

Like, say you print a 100mm circle

Is it squished on one axis? Or on one diagonal? What is the measurement along that line?

[craggy stratus]

This is a printout the printer made today (it's the Voron cube). If you look at the circle, you can see that it's not a perfectly round circle; it has several imperfections that prevent it from being so

[native meadow]

Forget the circle

Figure out why your straight lines are so not straight, imo

I suspect the circle will take care of itself

[craggy stratus]

That's true

And by following the previous guide, do you think I'll be able to solve this problem?

[native meadow]

Maybe. I'm a little concerned, just looking at that cube, that something more fundamental may be happening (I'm worried that belts may be walking up on their bearings someplace)

Things like this

Happen a little bit from just not having tuned fully yet

But that looks a little extreme

So I'm not sure

[craggy stratus]

Well, I don't know. What is true is that the other day I had to tighten the straps again because the data the quad gantry level was collecting was strange

[stray belfry]

If you are using Orca, try a few of the calibrations in there like the flow (yolo) it looks over extruded, even if it is something else, this will give you a start, assuming you have checked your extrusion multiplier first..

[native meadow]

You are with the printer, and have eyes

So you can observe if the belts are misbehaving simply by watching

[craggy stratus]

I didn't see anything strange there

[craggy stratus]

Hi. I've been thinking it might be a better idea to install input shaping first before following the guide on improving your print quality (https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/), since I printed a Benchy yesterday and it came out with a lot of imperfections that I think are because I haven't installed input shaping. Anyway, I'm attaching a photo of the Benchy here so you can see the imperfections and correct me if I'm wrong.
Do you also think installing input shaping right now before following the other guide is a good idea?

[calm lance]

Those issues look like they're way beyond what input shaping does. Looks more like some (very) wet filament.

[craggy stratus]

My other printer prints this filament perfectly

I think the reason it works well on one machine and poorly on the other is because the other machine (the Voron) is missing some things to fine-tune the print quality as much as possible

[minor portal]

looks like you're over-extruding, re-check your extrusion muliplier

[craggy stratus]

Well, yesterday I calibrated the flow with the test that broski1838 told me about, the only thing is that the pieces came out quite bad

[minor portal]

can you show us the results of the em calibration prints?

[craggy stratus]

I'm not home right now, but when I get there I'll look for the calibration test and show it to you

[craggy stratus]

I haven't found all the pieces, but I have found these here

[native meadow]

Are you sure you did your basic extruder (sometimes incorrectly called e-steps) calibration?

[craggy stratus]

I don't remember what kind of calibration that was

Maybe I did it, but I don't remember

[native meadow]

Well go do it again then

Its in the voron startup guide

[craggy stratus]

Ok

[waxen agate]

rotation distance

with the calculations, 100mm extrusion etc

[craggy stratus]

Are you referring to the test to extrude x mm of filament?

[native meadow]

Wait...is it in the startup guide? I don't see it now...

Regardless, you need to do it

[native meadow]

Yes

Oh, it is there. Just under the deceptive heading "finish line"

[waxen agate]

https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/startup.html?model=v2&step=14&interface=null&probe=null#extruder-calibration-e-steps

[craggy stratus]

I remember now. I remember doing that calibration, but I don't know if I did it correctly, because I extruded the filament without the hotend attached

[craggy stratus]

Thanks

[native meadow]

Doing it without the nozzle is something some people recommend. Not sure why you'd do it without the entire hotend

I still think you should do it again, just based on that last photo you posted

[craggy stratus]

Okay, but this time with the hotend installed

[native meadow]

Indeed

[craggy stratus]

And for some reason, now that I have the Voron turned on, it makes a strange noise that I don't know why it happens. I'm going to send you an audio recording (if possible, and if not, a video)

[waxen agate]

one thing that guide we linked doesn't specify is that when extruding the 50mm twice, it's important to do it at a very slow rate, so you don't skip steps/overwhelm the extruder, and therefore give you inaccurate results

[waxen agate]

can't hear anything

[craggy stratus]

I just realized

I sent the axes back to their origin and it doesn't do it anymore

[craggy stratus]

Okay, at what speed?

[waxen agate]

for calibration 1 mm/s

[craggy stratus]

Only?

[waxen agate]

yes

[craggy stratus]

Okay, I'll do it

I don't think the distance from the mark or tape to the hole where the filament enters the extruder matters, right?

I'm not going to put 10 mm, but maybe 100 for example, I think that would be fine

[waxen agate]

the calculator linked on the page works on 100mm

https://tools.takuya.wtf/esteps.html

[craggy stratus]

That's true

I measured 20 mm.

I'm honestly surprised

And the calculator also gives me the same value for rotation_distance

Which is 40

[craggy stratus]

Well, maybe it was 1 mm more than 20 mm, or less

[native meadow]

Your extruder rotation_distance is 40?

[craggy stratus]

Yes

[native meadow]

Really?

Show me

Everything except the extruder generally has a rotation_distance of 40

[native meadow]

More

Show me the whole config section

Not just one line

[craggy stratus]

Something like this?

[native meadow]

Okay, but once again, we're talking about the extruder

So the [extruder] config section

You just showed me the [stepper_x] config section

[craggy stratus]

Oh, okay, I hadn't realized I wasn't in the extruder section

And it's a good thing you said so, because it turns out I was wrong and my rotation_distance value wasn't 40

[native meadow]

I mean, that's why i was so skeptical. Because 40 doesn't make any sense for an extruder.

[craggy stratus]

But I just updated it

[native meadow]

So okay, let's back up here

When you did the test

How much did you try to extrude?

[craggy stratus]

That's what the calculator gave me

[native meadow]

You only requested 20?

[craggy stratus]

50 mm twice, as stated in the instructions

[native meadow]

...

Okay, so I don't understand any of the values you put into the calculator then

You still have the value from a completely different part of the config in the "old rotation_distance" box

And your "requested" value is completely different from what you just told me

[craggy stratus]

The instructions tell me to make a mark 120 mm from the hole where the filament enters the extruder. So, once I made the mark, I extruded 50 mm twice (a total of 100 mm), and then I read that I had to measure the distance from the hole to the mark, and that's when I got 20 mm

[native meadow]

You skipped part of the instructions

Let's go through it from the top

First box. "Old rotation distance value"

What needs to be there?

Hint. It's not 40

[craggy stratus]

Ah, okay, I've noticed the mistake now

[native meadow]

Tell me

Spell it out

[craggy stratus]

It was approximately 20, but without realizing it I updated the printer.cfg file having set it to 40

[native meadow]

Approximately, nothing

You need to put the exact value in that box

Now

Moving on to the next box

It's asking how much you actually extruded not how much was left over

So you need to math that out:

You made a mark at 120. After extruding, you had 20mm left

[craggy stratus]

I don't have it; I accidentally updated the printer.cfg file to 40

[native meadow]

So how much was extruded?

[native meadow]

It's in the screenshot from a moment ago...

[craggy stratus]

Oh, it's true

Sorry, I forgot for a moment

[native meadow]

So moving on. Second box? What's your answer?

[craggy stratus]

20 mm, but I just realized that's wrong

[native meadow]

So what's the correct answer?

[craggy stratus]

100 mm

[native meadow]

Okay

And...third box

What belongs there?

[craggy stratus]

I set it to 20 mm, and I think that's fine, but correct me if I'm wrong

[native meadow]

Thats not fine

What does that box say to put there?

"Requested mm" aka...how much did you ask klipper to extrude?

[craggy stratus]

The requested mm

To extrude

[native meadow]

Yes....and a moment ago you said you requested 50mm twice

So that would be a total request of what?

Or is 50mm twice not what you did?

[craggy stratus]

In total I have extruded 100 mm

[native meadow]

So....what goes in the box?

[craggy stratus]

100 mm

[native meadow]

I mean, the interesting thing is, I already know the result: it's going to come back that I was wrong, and your rotation distance is fine

But it's a bit concerning when you try to use such a simple calculator, and put completely wild values into each of the 3 boxes

Anyway. Long story short, I'm wrong, your rotation_distance appears to be fine

[craggy stratus]

40?

Is 40 okay?

[native meadow]

40 has never been okay

The one in the screenshot. 20.whatever

You need to put it back to that

Sorry, 22.9...

That one

[craggy stratus]

That's the value it had when I did the flow test

[native meadow]

I'm aware

But like I've already said several times, it appears that I was wrong, and your original rotation_distance (the 22.9 one) was actually fine

[craggy stratus]

Do you know why this happens?

I discovered the mistake. It turns out I put a comma instead of a period in the number

[native meadow]

Ya, klipper doesn't really know what to do with that European style notation

(Using the comma)

[craggy stratus]

This also happens with other programs

[native meadow]

Ya

When you did the flow calibration test, what range did you use? I'm having a hard time reading some of the samples

[craggy stratus]

What do you mean when you said what range I used?

[native meadow]

When you run the flow calibration, it asks you questions

I need to know what choices you made

[craggy stratus]

Orca slicer didn't ask me anything when I clicked calibration test YOLO

[craggy stratus]

I was replying to this message

[native meadow]

This is the first time I'm aware of, that you've mentioned that you were using the Yolo version

[craggy stratus]

I used it because Broski recommended it to me

[native meadow]

Ah, so he did

[craggy stratus]

He recommended it to me, yes

But hey, there must be a reason for it

Sorry for putting "hey"

[native meadow]

The trouble with the Yolo test, is that all your samples still look overextruded

So I think you should run the not-yolo version of the test

Which covers a wider range of values

[craggy stratus]

These two here?

I don't know if you'll recognize them because they're in Spanish, but maybe you'll recognize them by the order

The first one circled is flow test step 1, and the second one is step 2

Do you understand it that way?

[native meadow]

I think in English it's just "pass 1" and "pass 2"

So you do pass 1 first

And it does a really wide range of values

[craggy stratus]

That's possible. It's just that English isn't my native language

[native meadow]

So that gets you somewhat in the general range

And then you do pass 2, and that further refines it

So in short, yes. I agree. Let's start with Paso 1

[craggy stratus]

Yes, this is the test I've done every time I want to calibrate the flow

[native meadow]

Now I'm lost. I thought you did the "yolo" one

But now you're saying you did the "paso" one

[craggy stratus]

I do this test with my other printer

But with the Voron, the most recent test I've done was the Yolo test

[native meadow]

Ah, okay okay

That makes sense

Let's try the 2 pass version with the voron, and see where that gets us

Just out of curiosity, what is the flow multiplier set to right now?

(Aka, before we start the test)

[craggy stratus]

Wouldn't it be better to start with pass 1?

[craggy stratus]

1,28

Okay, now that I think about it, I did tell you the flow ratio

But then, where can I look up what you told me?

[native meadow]

Let's reset that to 1.0 before we start the test

[craggy stratus]

Ok

[craggy stratus]

The flow ratio?

[native meadow]

Yes

[craggy stratus]

ok

[native meadow]

Under normal circumstances, it should almost always be a slightly negative number

So having it be as high as you did (1.28) probably explains a lot

[craggy stratus]

By the way, I have a question I've been thinking about for several days. The filament I use for my Voron is from Bambu Lab, and Bambu Lab's profiles in Orca Slicer are very good, so would it be necessary to do some testing before using it on another printer?

[native meadow]

Bambu's profiles a very specific both to their filament, and their printer

I'd expect you to have to do some calibrating as soon as you try to take that to any other printer, yes.

[craggy stratus]

Ah, okay, that explains why those profiles work so well with my A1 mini

I'm going to print the test. Should I start with pass1 or pass 2?

[native meadow]

Pass 1

We're starting from scratch here

[craggy stratus]

Ok

By the way, how can I avoid having to constantly change my printer's IP address in Orca Slicer so I can send print jobs directly to it?

[native meadow]

Same way we dealt with it for web browser

Use the host name in the orca settings, not the ip

[craggy stratus]

Ok

It works now, thanks

I seem to recall that in this test, the part with the number 0 represents my current flow rate, and as that number increases or decreases, my flow rate increases or decreases. For example, the part with the number 5 would indicate that my flow rate is equal to 1 + 5, or 1 + 0,5. Is that correct?

[minor portal]

with the non-yolo version of the flow calibration, you have to do some maths

[native meadow]

Extra zero.

5 is 5% or 0.05

So 1 * 1.05= 1.05

(If the starting value wasn't 1, that calculation would actually, you know, do something)

[craggy stratus]

I imagine it's 0.05 + 1, right?

No, no, no, that's what I said in the previous message

[craggy stratus]

In this

[native meadow]

You said 0,5

I said 0,05

That's an incredibly important difference

[craggy stratus]

Don't be surprised if he has many lapses of this kind 😆

It happens to me a lot

[native meadow]

Fair

How are those test pieces doing?

[craggy stratus]

I'm noticing that the fillings are coming out a little unevenly.

I mean irregular

[native meadow]

Could indicate various things. Incorrect temperature, partial clog, tension issue on the extruder...

But let's see what the finished prints come out like

[craggy stratus]

I'm printing at 220 degrees with Bambu Lab matte PLA, I think that's fine

I haven't done the temperature test yet, but I think overall this is a good temperature

What is true, and perhaps it has an influence now that I think about it, is that the printer is printing the infill at 200 mm/s, and since the infill density of the parts is quite high, they are also printed at this speed

In the end, the pieces ended up like this

[native meadow]

There are a couple i can't clearly make out, but all of them that I can still look overextruded, no?

[craggy stratus]

How can I tell if they are over-extruded?

By the way, this is the result of the second test

[minor portal]

the wiggly edges are a sign of the nozzle being too close to the bed

[craggy stratus]

What wiggly edges?

I don't see them

I simply see that the quality is not good

[minor portal]

it may just be shadows, but i agree, the quality isn't good

what is your current em?

[craggy stratus]

What is em?

[minor portal]

extrusion multiplier, also known as flow ratio

[craggy stratus]

Ah, okay, I already knew what it was, just said in a different way

[craggy stratus]

My flow ratio is 0.95

[minor portal]

ok, that doesn't sound crazy

what values do you have for rotation_distance, gear_ratio, microsteps and full_steps_per_rotation in the [extruder] section?

[craggy stratus]

I can't access the printer.cfg file right now

[minor portal]

oh?

[craggy stratus]

When I click on it, instead of accessing it, I get a message that says "downloading", but it doesn't even download

[craggy stratus]

I'm on Mainsail from Orca Slicer

[minor portal]

this is a limitation of the device tab in orca slicer, use an internet browser instead

[craggy stratus]

Before I could always get in, even when I was inside Orca Slicer

But I can access it from my browser

[craggy stratus]

In rotation_distance I have 22.905740611, in gear ratio 50:10, in ```microsteps16, and I don't think I havefull_steps_per_rotation``

[craggy stratus]

Yes, I only have it in the stepper_x and stepper_y sections

[minor portal]

which extruder do you have?

[craggy stratus]

I don't know

[minor portal]

did you not assemble it?

[craggy stratus]

I assembled it, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to do the flow test

[craggy stratus]

I assembled it a few weeks ago

[minor portal]

but you don't know what you assembled?

[craggy stratus]

I know I've assembled an extruder, but I don't know the exact model of the extruder

[minor portal]

ok, which toolhead? that should narrow it down to a specific extruder or a couple of optional extruders

[craggy stratus]

Stealthburner

[minor portal]

ok, so probably a clockwork2 or galileo 2, do either of those names sound familiar?

[craggy stratus]

The first one yes, the second one less so

[minor portal]

post a photo of your toolhead, i'll see if i can identify it

[minor portal]

looks like a clockwork 2, add full_steps_per_rotation: 200 to the [extruder] section and re-run the orca flow rate calibration again, see if it makes any difference

btw, you have no ptfe tube from the toolhead? and what's the wire hanging out the side of the toolhead

[craggy stratus]

I don't have the tube, no. And the head's cable is a cable I don't know where it goes

I haven't finished assembling the printer completely yet

[minor portal]

lack of ptfe tube may cause print issues as the filament isn't fully constrained

we should work out what that wire is, it may be causing issues, but without knowing what it is, i can't say for sure

[craggy stratus]

Are you sure that having the cable disconnected could cause printing problems?

[minor portal]

no, i'm not sure, that's why we should work out what it is

[craggy stratus]

For now, would it be okay to install the Teflon tube, set the value you mentioned for the full_steps_per_rotation parameter in the printer.cfg file, and then reprint the flow test?

[minor portal]

sure, i'm in no position to tell you what you can or cannot do

[craggy stratus]

Okay, so I'm going to start by putting on the ptfe tube

I'll print the flow rate calibration tomorrow, I have to go to bed

[stray belfry]

Hi, on your flow tests, are you reducing the height as they look quite low "short", if you are trying to save filament by printing less layers it wont help you tune to the right "flow", just a thought

[craggy stratus]

Hi, I'm not really sure what you mean

[stray belfry]

If I remember the Orca flow tests are 10 X 0.2 height, so 2mm, are you changing any of this..

[craggy stratus]

No

By the way, I'm running into a problem now, for some reason I don't know, and that is that right now, neither by putting the IP address in my browser, nor by using the hostname, can I access mainsail

[minor portal]

there should be numbers on each of these tabs, which appears to be missing, and it looks like it's filled in with archimedean chords

did you change any settings in orca?

[craggy stratus]

No, I just clicked on flow test and sent it to print

[craggy stratus]

But do you know why this might happen?

[minor portal]

what does it look like in the preview?

[craggy stratus]

I get this message:

This website cannot be accessed.

192.168.1.26 took too long to respond.

[minor portal]

i meant the slicer preview

[craggy stratus]

Oops… this page cannot be accessed. The IP address of the btt-cb1%20rv server could not be found.

[minor portal]

this looks like either the ip address has changed or the wifi isn't working

[craggy stratus]

I received another message that said this

[minor portal]

slicer preview, as in this

[craggy stratus]

The Wi-Fi works perfectly; in fact, if it didn't, we wouldn't be able to be talking

[craggy stratus]

Oh, ok

[waxen agate]

the wifi on your cb1

unless you are accessing discord through your cb1 too

[minor portal]

looks like you have a space character in the hostname, that's been encoded to %20

spaces in hostnames are a bad idea

[minor portal]

i meant the wifi on your cb1, not your wifi in general

[craggy stratus]

I changed the hostname back to BTT-CB1, there is no space

[minor portal]

ok, in that case, you also need to change it in orca

[craggy stratus]

I've changed it, as you can see in the image, but it still won't let me in

[minor portal]

click the "test" button

[craggy stratus]

Now I'm getting this message

[minor portal]

i don't know why it's complaining

try deleting everything in the hostname box and type it in again

also, why do you have "api key/password" set?

[craggy stratus]

Is it possible I need to update OctoPrint?

[minor portal]

you're using octoprint?

[craggy stratus]

I think so

[craggy stratus]

I was replying to this message

[craggy stratus]

Why did you ask that? Is installing OctoPrint not recommended?

[minor portal]

it's not as common as it used to be, besides, you're using mainsail so having both is kinda pointless

[craggy stratus]

Both mainsail and octoprint?

[minor portal]

yes, why have both?

[craggy stratus]

I don't remember why I installed them

[craggy stratus]

But I do need Mainsail, otherwise I can't send print jobs to the printer

[minor portal]

mainsail is just a web front end to moonraker

you send the print job to moonraker and in turn it passes it to klipper

[craggy stratus]

And how do I access Moonraker?

[minor portal]

via mainsail, that's it's job

[craggy stratus]

So, since I can't access Mainsail, I can't access Moonraker, right?

[minor portal]

correct

[craggy stratus]

Then I can't send print jobs

[minor portal]

that's not strictly true

your slicer sends the print job to moonraker, regardless of whether you can access mainsail or not (assuming moonraker is running)

but since you can't get your slicer to talk to moonraker, then correct, you can't send a print job

so, we need to figure out why

can you ping your cb1? from a command prompt, run ping BTT-CB1 and see if you get a response

[craggy stratus]

I got a response
Pinging BTT-CB1.local [192.168.1.26] with 32 bytes of data:
Response from my IP: bytes=32 time=3ms TTL=64
Response from my IP: bytes=32 time=11ms TTL=64
Response from my IP: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64
Response from my IP: bytes=32 time=2ms TTL=64

Ping statistics for my IP:

Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0
(0% loss)

Approximate round trip times in milliseconds:
Minimum = 2 ms, Maximum = 11 ms, Average = 4 ms
Where it says "my ip", my ip appears in the command prompt response
Do you understand?

[minor portal]

ok, that's good

are you able to ssh into it?

[craggy stratus]

Yes

[minor portal]

ok, run systemctl status moonraker and see if moonraker is actually running

[craggy stratus]

This is the output

[minor portal]

so, moonraker is running

try http://BTT-CB1.local in your browser

[craggy stratus]

It works

Thank you

So, what would be the next step to solve the quality problems?

[minor portal]

ok, so change the hostname in orca to BTT-CB1.local

[craggy stratus]

Ok

[minor portal]

i haven't seen a reply to this yet #1436004447682826330 message

[craggy stratus]

It's not working in Orca yet

[craggy stratus]

I solved that problem with the help of some of you

[minor portal]

wdym?

[craggy stratus]

What does wdym mean?

[waxen agate]

“What do you mean”

[craggy stratus]

I've basically solved that problem already, but with your help

[minor portal]

huh? i thought that was the issue we were addressing before the wifi/hostname issue?

[craggy stratus]

I had that problem before the host problem, yes

[minor portal]

so....now i'm confused, what is the issue then?

[craggy stratus]

Now that we've resolved the issue where I couldn't access MainSail, the problem now is that although the printer prints, the print quality is not good, and this is related to the flow test I did the other day

[minor portal]

right, and i was asking what the slicer preview looked like #1436004447682826330 message

[craggy stratus]

Ah, okay, I thought you were asking earlier about the problem I had at first when I managed to turn on the printer, which is that I couldn't find the printer's IP address

[craggy stratus]

Sorry, I forgot to send you a screenshot of the laminate preview. I'm sending it to you in this message

[minor portal]

that doesn't look like it's using archimedean chords?

[craggy stratus]

I don't know what archemedean chords are

[minor portal]

the top surface pattern, they should be circles

[craggy stratus]

Ah, okay. Yes, it's circular, look

[minor portal]

hmmmm, ok, maybe it was just your first screenshot making them look...weird

[craggy stratus]

Okay, so what was it you wanted to see in the preview?

[minor portal]

i wanted to make sure that the preview looked correct, and it does, so try printing them again

[craggy stratus]

Are you sure? It's going to be the same quality as last time

[minor portal]

i just want to make sure that when we're looking at the results that we're look at them as of now rather than a few days ago

[craggy stratus]

Okay, and one question: I've noticed the filament is tangled. Do you know how to untangle it?

[minor portal]

tangled on the spool? that may account for the rough looking prints

[craggy stratus]

Yes

[waxen agate]

unwind it until you see no tangles, then wind it back on fairly tightly.

[craggy stratus]

If I try to unwind it, I move the knot

[waxen agate]

usually this occurs because you have let go of the filament end when loading or unloading the filament. use some common sense to unknot it and untangle it.

[minor portal]

as there's not much filament left on the roll, it may be easier to just respool it onto another empty spool

[craggy stratus]

But wouldn't that be done with a machine?

[minor portal]

that machine being you 😉

[craggy stratus]

Anyway, I think I've managed to untie the knot

[craggy stratus]

Okay. I print both pass 1 and pass 2, right?

[minor portal]

it's recommended to do the yolo version

[craggy stratus]

I was told that the YOLO version had a problem, but I don't remember what it was

[minor portal]

i wasn't aware of any problems, but, if you want to use pass 1/pass 2, see here

[craggy stratus]

Okay, I'll print it out

[craggy stratus]

By the way, I've discovered that the right-hand belt has loosened. I've tried tightening the screw more, but the belt isn't tightening

[minor portal]

it looks like the idler is at full travel already

[craggy stratus]

Can it be seen like this?

[minor portal]

yeah, looks like both idlers are already at full travel

the only way to fix that would be to fully slacken off both idlers, undo the toolhead carriage slightly allowing you to pull the belts tight, screw down the carriage and then use the idlers to re-tension the belts correctly

[stray belfry]

Full travel and loose by the looks of it.

[craggy stratus]

Hi everyone! I've been offline for a couple of months and haven't been able to continue working on my Voron. I'm so grateful for all the help you gave me, truly.
Now that I'm back, I've run into another small problem and I was hoping you could lend me a hand.
It turns out I can't tighten the belt on the right axle because one of the screws I use to tighten the belt rests on two plastic pieces that separate when I tighten the screw. I've attached a photo.

[native meadow]

The screw pulls the red piece back

[runic iron]

Its a 2 piece part.
Check the CAD

[native meadow]

The screw itself doesn't actually move (other than rotating)

You're already at max travel looks like

[craggy stratus]

So how do you tighten the belt?

[native meadow]

The red piece travels on the screw

The problem is, yours is all the way in the "tight" position. So if that's where it was when you ran your belts, you started out with it already set to "max" tension

Leaving you no where to go

So your fix is going to have to be something like:

1. Spin the screw counter clockwise a lot, allowing you to slide the red piece towards the back of the printer
2. Shorten the belt at the toolhead. (Remember to do both, since they must stay the same lengh)
3. Turn the screw clockwise, which will pull the red piece towards the front of the printer, thus applying tension to the belt

[craggy stratus]

The red piece has already been slid back.

[native meadow]

Yes. That's the problem

the tensioning mechanism has a certain amount of travel

You have used up that travel

So if your belt isn't tight yet, that means you left too much slack in the belt initially, more than the mechanism is capable of fixing for you

[craggy stratus]

Initially, when?

[native meadow]

When you installed the belt?

[craggy stratus]

It's been a few months now

[native meadow]

I'm not sure what you're trying to tell me

It sounds to me like you made a mistake a few months ago (possibly installing the belts with the tensioner in the wrong position for installing belts), and have now discovered that mistake

Ultimately, the historical part is all speculative, and doesn't really matter

What we know now is the current situation: your belt is too loose, even when the tensioner is run out all the way

And the solution to that is the 3 step process I described above

[craggy stratus]

These steps, right?

[native meadow]

Yes

[craggy stratus]

By loosening the screw, I discovered that the screw hole is not aligned with the screw, but is slightly to its right

[native meadow]

Thats...odd, but i don't really think it changes much

Though it does make me wonder if the whole piece is somehow distorted?

[craggy stratus]

Do you mean that piece is defective?

[native meadow]

I am wondering...

[craggy stratus]

Yes, I understood you, but I was wondering if you meant that you were wondering if the piece was defective

[stray belfry]

Do you think it's worth completely removing the belts and comparing they are both the same length, as a starting point

[stray belfry]

By over tightening the screw you may have twisted the heat set slightly, it shouldn't make an issue

[craggy stratus]

The problem I'm having is that the screw is between two pieces of plastic, and when I tighten it, those pieces bend

[craggy stratus]

You can see it in this photo

[native meadow]

Is this a crack?

[craggy stratus]

Oh, I hadn't noticed

I hope it doesn't affect the functionality of the piece

[calm lance]

It would, if it means the z idler in there sits in any way crooked (which can misalign the belts) or something is rubbing. I think that is probably fine (and just causes the red part to sit at a bit of an angle), but once it's cracked it's likely to get worse over time. You should probably print out replacement parts as soon as possible so you at least have them on hand if it deteriorates.

[craggy stratus]

I have a 3D printer capable of printing ABS or ASA, which I understand are the best materials for printing these parts. Since I live in an apartment and don't have an exhaust fan, I've been advised to put the printer on the terrace (when the weather is nice, of course) and print the parts there. However, because I have to leave the terrace door slightly ajar for the printer cable, I've also been advised to use a fan pointing outwards to avoid drafts. But I suppose there's a small risk of air getting in above the fan. I'd like to know your opinions on whether there are other ways to print technical materials in an apartment without an exhaust fan. If there aren't, I'll use this method; it's not like I'm going to be printing in ABS or ASA for five hours straight

[calm lance]

ABS or ASA is what you should be printing your voron parts from, yes.

While both of them can give off some gasses, and those are hazardous, it's not like they're going to instantly hurt you or anything. There are different opinions on what's "safe", but there's a big difference between constantly running a printer in your bedroom and printing a few things now and then.

Also they can give off a bit of a smell, which is also a reason to ventilate things a bit.

I don't have any exhaust fan on my ABS-capable printer, I keep it in my downstairs office (usually printing when I'm not working there, but mostly due to the noise). I'm not bothered by any smells, and I choose to ignore whatever else there's to it...

[craggy stratus]

Yes, I know they won't harm me immediately, but if I print a lot this way, I don't know if the toxic fumes could cause damage, either in the medium or long term

I have an air quality monitor that I use every time I take the printer out to the terrace to print technical materials, to constantly check that the fumes aren't getting into the house, because, as I mentioned, the terrace door isn't completely closed due to the cable running through it

What I don't know is if this air quality monitor measures the particles and gases released by these types of materials, but I use it because I once had the brilliant idea of ​​printing ASA in my living room, and since I had to open the printer door mid-print due to a malfunction, the monitor started beeping. We opened the window completely, and it stopped

[calm lance]

Whatever harm they could cause in the amounts you get from a 3d printer is a long term thing. How high is the risk? No idea, doesn't seem to me to be very high (but this discord is probably not the place to look for what is essentially medical advice).

[stray belfry]

Get a nevermore or similar in there with activated carbon, job done, get it back indoors

[craggy stratus]

Don't you think an exhaust fan would be the safest option? I'm not saying what you told me is useless, I'm just saying that, from what I've read, filters (whether inside or outside the printer) sometimes create a false sense of security; that is, you think harmful fumes are being filtered out, but in reality, they aren't. But I'm not saying they don't work, just that if I use them, this risk exists

By the way, before reprinting the part, I’m going to dry the ASA, since I haven’t been able to store it properly after using it on another printer

And I think I read somewhere that if I’m going to dry ASA, it’s recommended to do it in a well‑ventilated area (preferably indoors), and that it doesn’t carry the same risk as printing with it, since it melts during printing. However, when drying it, I’m only heating it slightly. Do you know if that last part is correct (when comparing the risk of printing ASA with the risk of drying it)?

[calm lance]

Both ABS and ASA can release VOC's when drying, but in much smaller amounts than when printing. At least for ABS (which tends to smell more when printing) I've never even got a hint of that smell when drying them.

[calm lance]

Safest option I think would be to check that air quality meter, determine for yourself what values on that you are willing to live with, and apply remediations until you're happy. While the nevermore-style filters definitely work (I mostly run one to sometimes reduce the smell and to get chamber warmer, but people with VOC meters have tested their effectiveness), getting the fumes outside should be rather effective. One downside with that would be that if the airflow is too high it could make the chamber much cooler (since it will draw in room-temperature air), but it wouldn't take a whole lot to make sure the print chamber is at a slight negative pressure and practically anything leaving the printer does so via the exhaust. If you want the best achievable filtration, why not both?

[minor portal]

any kind of air filtration can lead to a false sense of security if you don't maintain them well, by replacing filters/carbon pellets at the specified intervals

[craggy stratus]

That's true, I hadn't thought of that

[craggy stratus]

But I have a question. When you said I should determine the levels I'm willing to live with, did you mean the levels I usually have at home when I'm not printing technical materials?

[calm lance]

That's basically entirely up to you. Different VOC meters behave a bit differently, but the ones I've seen have very varying sensitivity to different compounds (which may or may not correlate with "harmfulness"). And what levels of VOCs you tolerate in your home is pretty much a personal choice (how much printing you do with what materials when you're in the room, and how much "nasty stuff" you're willing to accept while still feeling safe about it).

Expecting to read "background levels" while printing I think sounds a bit overkill (as long as you don't run the printer overnight in the kids bedroom), but that's just me.

[craggy stratus]

I have the LifeBasis HAQ66 air quality monitor. Do you know if it's a good product for measuring the levels of gases emitted by technical materials (if you're familiar with the device, of course)?

[calm lance]

I have absolutely no idea about that device, but I'd bet it uses one of the handful of similar sensors you'd find in any home device. I'd personally not really believe that measurement very much on any of them, but at least it's a number that can tell you "are there VOCs in the air" or "is it more or less now than it was before" or "is it shitloads more or just a little bit".

[craggy stratus]

These are the capabilities of the sensor it has, according to what it says on its box

[calm lance]

Sure. But it will still have very varying sensitivity to different compounds. Some molecules will actually read at the actual concentration (there is some "reference compound" that should be 1:1), but some will read less (with the sensor being less sensitive to them) and some a lot more (being more sensitive).

At least for ABS and ASA the "main emissions" I think are reasonably close to that "reference molecule" in sensitivity (someone mentioned a factor of about 2, but I don't remember if it was more or less sensitive or even what kind of sensor they were talking about) so such a device is fairly useful at detecting if "3d printer stuff is leaking", but I still wouldn't trust the measurement value to be very accurate.

[craggy stratus]

So what you mean is that this device is good for detecting if the air is contaminated (that's what I assumed when you said that the device is good for detecting leaks), but not for obtaining exact values ​​of how much of a specific compound is in the air, right?

[calm lance]

Pretty much, yes. It will tell you if your filtration/venting system is working or not and what changes to it make it more or less effective, but it will not actually tell you "there is 0.123mg/m^3 of VOC in the air".

[craggy stratus]

I suppose if it can't tell me the exact (or as exact as possible) amount of a compound in the air, it'll at least detect it approximately, right?

Depending on the amount of a specific compound (like CO₂) that the meter detects, the area where CO₂ appears on the screen will be green, orange, or red. I mention this because I might be able to use it as a reference to know if there's a high amount of CO₂ in my environment, or of other compounds

[calm lance]

It will tell you pretty well if there is more or less (and to what degree) of a certain blend of VOC compounds in the air, so there the values can at least be compared between different occasions. But that would only be accurate for a specific filament (at least "kind of plastic", maybe even just for a specific brand/spool). Different plastic flavours will have different proportions of compounds, with differing sensitivity and harmfulness.

A CO2 sensor should be more believable in terms of "actual values" since it's just a single compound (and a separate sensor for it). But unless the manufacturer specifies some kind of accuracy, I still wouldn't really believe the number very much.

[craggy stratus]

I mentioned CO₂ as an example, just as I could have mentioned VOCs