you are trying to probe 1 and 2
#Problems finding the printer's IP address.
waxen agate
craggy stratus
Oh, okay, the other one was hiding
So I think the measurements aren't correct because I was putting both ends on the same pin
I'm going to put each one on a pin
For less than a second the multimeter measured 70, but I don't know if it had one probe on the left pin and the other on the right pin
waxen agate
persist in trying until you get a stable reading
craggy stratus
How close to 60 ohms does it need to be?
waxen agate
57-63 would be acceptable
craggy stratus
Not higher or lower than that, right?
waxen agate
what stable values are you seeing
craggy stratus
70 ohms
waxen agate
i can't easily explain that value. it's close enough to 60 that things should probably be ok, but given what we've seen when running CAN queries I will have to have a think about how to proceed.
craggy stratus
What are you referring to?
native meadow
What are you referring to?
He's referring to the fact that on the software side, your canbus connection doesn't appear to be working
I think my suggestion would be to go back into the toolhead flashing guide, and work through those steps again, but screenshot it as you go
For example, I'd like to see the "make menuconfig" when you are building the firmware
craggy stratus
Okay, but that's later, because I have homework
craggy stratus
I've finished my homework, and I opened MobaXterm to do what you told me about going back to the flashing section of the printhead, but something that's never happened before has just happened. I started a new session, and what I see is what you see in the photo
And then after a while this appears
I also cannot access Mainsail by putting my printer's IP address into my browser
craggy stratus
I have no idea.
native meadow
how did you get its IP the first time?
native meadow
so go look there again, and see if it
- is present
- has a new IP
native meadow
assuming it behaves properly on your network, you'd really be better off using the hostname.local name of the machine
that should follow it properly when the IP changes, avoiding this problem
there's also the option of assigning the printer a static IP, but that's more of a headache, if the .local name works
(scrolling back to some of the old screenshots, looks like yours is just called raspberrypi so it would be raspberrypi.local)
opal tinsel
A lot of routers have built in local IP reservation so it may be easy
native meadow
A lot of routers have built in local IP reservation so it may be easy
it's still 100% more work than just using a hostname that's already there and functioning
craggy stratus
(scrolling back to some of the old screenshots, looks like yours is just called ...
When I connect to the Wi-Fi network, it says its name starts with BTT, but I don't remember how it ends
native meadow
When I connect to the Wi-Fi network, it says its name starts with BTT, but I don...
ah...my bad, I think I looked at a screenshot of something other than your machine
but ya, figure out what that hostname actually is, and use it 😛
craggy stratus
When I start a session in MobaXterm, I simply enter the printer's IP address and I can log in; I don't have to assign it a name
craggy stratus
A lot of routers have built in local IP reservation so it may be easy
Ok
native meadow
When I start a session in MobaXterm, I simply enter the printer's IP address and...
yes, but you can ALSO type a hostname there
and the hostname wont randomly change on you
if you keep using the IP, you're going to have to keep looking it up every couple of days
if you use the hostname you won't
I'm sure you can see how that's better
craggy stratus
And how can I set a hostname?
native meadow
its already set
it's an inherent characteristic of your pi
(that's an oversimplification, but...leave it 😛 )
craggy stratus
it's an inherent characteristic of your pi
Oh, okay, that's true
native meadow
you just need to know what it is
(I looked again. I think its actually BTT-CB1.local)
craggy stratus
it's an inherent characteristic of your pi
I'm going to look into the router to see what its name is
BTT-CB1
craggy stratus
He's referring to the fact that on the software side, your canbus connection doe...
Did you mean going back to this part?
native meadow
more or less, yes. probably don't have to go back quite to the beginning
let me think here
could probably start at "installing katapult"
craggy stratus
Ok
Okay, logically, in theory I can skip this command now, because I already ran it. But I'm not entirely sure whether I should skip it or not
native meadow
Sure, you can skip that
craggy stratus
Ok
native meadow
Fun facts, that line is designed to not do anything if its already been done, that's why it's kinda long and convoluted
craggy stratus
Fun facts, that line is designed to not do anything if its already been done, th...
Oh, I didn't know that
I just remembered that what you wanted to see were the Katapult menu settings, right?
native meadow
Yes please
craggy stratus
Ok
native meadow
And then the output of the actual flashing command too
craggy stratus
What command?
I don't know which one you mean
By the way, this is the menu configuration
craggy stratus
Ok
native meadow
The next screenshot of interest will be the make FLASH
craggy stratus
I can skip the make command too, right? I have the correct configuration
native meadow
I can skip the `make `command too, right? I have the correct configuration
No.
You should do
make clean
make
Well, proceed on, following the guide until you get to the make flash
craggy stratus
I'm almost there
In the command make flash FLASH_DEVICE=2e8a:0003, I replace the final ID with mine, right?
craggy stratus
Ok
I ran the command python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flashtool.py -i can0 -q, but I'm not getting the UUID. Bomtarnes told me to continue here: https://canbus.esoterical.online/troubleshooting/no_uuid.html#wiring
native meadow
So just to review: you powered everything down. You unplugged the usb cable, and plugged the canbus cable back in. You powered back up , and then you ran that command?
craggy stratus
Ah, I didn't do it. For some reason, my brain decided it shouldn't be done
But okay, I'll do it
native meadow
I mean, if the canbus wiring isn't in place, it's pretty normal that you can't get a canbus ID 😛
One might even describe that as "working as intended"
craggy stratus
One might even describe that as "working as intended"
That's true
😂
But one thing: after disconnecting the USB cable and turning the printer back on, the SB board is off. I say this because before, some lights were coming on, and now they aren't.
waxen agate
one thing i did not check with you was where the power terminals of the CANbus cable were connected (if at all)
native meadow
But one thing: after disconnecting the USB cable and turning the printer back on...
This is a good observation. Definitely worth investigating
waxen agate
where are the red and black cables connected
the green and yellow cables are the CAN signal cables
native meadow
That looks like they're plugged into a hotend out or something
waxen agate
as shiftingtech suggested, you have connected it to a hotend output. these are no good, as they need to be switched on in the firmware- they are not on all the time.
you need to connect it to a permanent 24v source, either in parallel with the DC input of the mainboard, or to the 24v power supply directly
craggy stratus
I've looked for 24-volt sources, but I haven't found any
waxen agate
you have one in that picture
native meadow
I've looked for 24-volt sources, but I haven't found any
Big grey box that says meanwell?
Has a green light in your last picture
craggy stratus
Has a green light in your last picture
Oh, okay, I just thought it wasn't there
But to do this I turn off the printer, lest I get an electric shock
native meadow
But to do this I turn off the printer, lest I get an electric shock
Definitely
Even if you don't shock yourself, there's a good chance of damaging stuff when wiring with the power on
Please show us the changes you make before turning the power back on
craggy stratus
Ok
I switched on the wrong cables, and I had to reconnect them, that's why it took me so long
native meadow
I agree with where you've put the wires. I'm curious though. Those look like bare wires
Didn't they have some kind of crimped end on them?
craggy stratus
I agree with where you've put the wires. I'm curious though. Those look like...
My father peeled them; he helped me a little
He peeled them so that each end reached its proper place
waxen agate
ideally they would be fitted with "fork" terminals like this
putting bare wires directly into the power supply is not ideal, but i feel it's safe enough to switch on and test with
craggy stratus
Are you sure it's safe?
native meadow
In the long run, we would encourage you to use the correct bits. In the short term, yes, it's fine
waxen agate
you can gently pull on the wires to see if they are properly secure in the terminals
if they are, then we can proceed
waxen agate
so we are going to (with can bus cable connected) power up then run ```python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flashtool.py -i can0 -q
Ok
native meadow
Before we start running commands, let's start simple
Do we get lights on the toolhead now?
craggy stratus
Yes
native meadow
Then yes, let's proceed with that command Bom gave you
craggy stratus
Ok
I think I'm going to have to go into the troubleshooting section, where I had to use the multimeter
I say this because I still can't get the UUID to show up
native meadow
What does ip -s -d link show can0 show ?
craggy stratus
Yes, a red one
native meadow
okay, so it is probably in katapult, which is good
but you're right. probably time to start running through that troubleshooting guide
unless Bom sees something
waxen agate
nope. the only thing that is sitting slightly unhappily with me is the toolhead 120R jumper cap, that wasn't sitting perfectly.
and the multimeter readings from earlier were confusing, 70 ohms
craggy stratus
Yes, that's true.
Perhaps the measurements have changed now that the cables have been changed
waxen agate
it would be worth repeating them, although the power cabling will not affect the value
craggy stratus
Repeat the measurements?
waxen agate
yes
craggy stratus
Ok
waxen agate
shut down the printer, remeasure as previously
if your meter has sharp enough probes we could measure the other end too
craggy stratus
What other extreme?
waxen agate
you can just make out the metal of the terminals arrowed here
waxen agate
yes, it's worth trying, you might make better contact, depending on your multimeter probes
craggy stratus
Okay, I'll give it a try, let's see what happens
Where do I put the red one, on top or on the bottom? And the black one?
waxen agate
doesn't matter
craggy stratus
Ok
It seems that the tips don't reach the bottom of the one below.
In addition, the measurement gives me about 20 ohms.
waxen agate
if you can't make good contact, the reading won't be reliable
craggy stratus
Can it be measured elsewhere or does it have to be there?
waxen agate
the only other place is where we tried first
craggy stratus
I think I'll be able to measure better there
Well, I'm going to bed now, it's late and I have class tomorrow.
Good night
craggy stratus
Hello. I measured the pins the other day, and they still read 20 ohms
One question: why do we need to take these measurements? I've tried looking in the instructions, but they don't explain why
native meadow
20ohms is strange. Not sure how you'd have achieved that
As for why, canbus wiring is quite specific
Balanced signal pair (aka 2 wires) with a 120 ohm resistor at each end
In that scenario, you end up with a total resistance in the system of 60 ohms
craggy stratus
20ohms is strange. Not sure how you'd have achieved that
Measuring the pins that bomtarnes told me about
native meadow
If you don't have that, then that means something is different from from the expected wiring scheme, which means canbus devices probably won't be able to talk properly
native meadow
Measuring the pins that bomtarnes told me about
Oh I understand that. What I don't know, is what has gone wrong to get the resistance that low between those two wires
native meadow
Getting a uuid requires working canbus communication
And that's not likely, until we figure out what's gone wrong with the wiring
Just to make sure: you're doing that measurement with the power off on the printer, right?
craggy stratus
Yes
native meadow
I think the next logical move is to verify the 3 pieces of the system
So if you unplug both ends: green /yellow from the manta, and the whole thing from the other end
Then we can test the pieces individually: at the toolhead board, check resistance between those same two pins you have been doing: should be 120
Then at the manta: check resistance between the two pins where the green/yellow was formerly plugged in
Should also be 120
craggy stratus
Then we can test the pieces individually: at the toolhead board, check resistan...
That's with the green and yellow CAN connector disconnected, right?
native meadow
And finally, resistance between the green & yellow wires themselves (from whichever connector is easier to access)
native meadow
That's with the green and yellow CAN connector disconnected, right?
Yes
craggy stratus
Ok
I tried taking the measurement with the connector going to the SB (from the CAN cable) disconnected, and with the green and yellow connector also disconnected from the Manta board. Since it didn't exceed 0.5 ohms, I tried reconnecting the connector to the Manta board, and it read about 71 ohms
native meadow
I tried taking the measurement with the connector going to the SB (from the CAN ...
what?
0.5 ohms !?
where exactly were you measuring
craggy stratus
The pins indicated in this photo (the red line indicates the pin that is not visible)
Does the SB list its specific UUID for that motherboard anywhere?
No, right?
native meadow
even if it did, what good would it do? you need working communication
getting the ID doesn't do you a bit of good otherwise
native meadow
The pins indicated in this photo (the red line indicates the pin that is not vis...
you got 0.5 ohm between those two pins when the cable wasn't plugged in
that makes NO sense
are you sure your meter probes weren't shorting to each other?
craggy stratus
The tips are in perfect condition
Anyway, I don't know how to find out if my multimeter is working properly or not
native meadow
The tips are in perfect condition
which means that the can TOUCH each other
operator error
craggy stratus
Well, I've been making sure they don't touch each other the whole time, but I'm going to try again, being even more careful this time
They haven't been touched this time and it still measures 20 ohms
native meadow
look
we're still trying to measure individual components of the system
not everything plugged back together
can you please unplug the toolhead cable, and then try the measurement of the toolhead board by itself again?
craggy stratus
To be sure, are you telling me to measure the pins in this image?
Because if that's the case, this time my multimeter measured 71 ohms
native meadow
yes, those pins. but is that with the cable plugged in, or the cable unplugged?
because context matters here
craggy stratus
The cable was disconnected
craggy stratus
and that got you 70!?
Yes
native meadow
hmmm.
that's strange, but lets move on for the moment
what does the manta side read?
craggy stratus
On which part of the Manta?
native meadow
the port where the green & yellow canbus wire used to be plugged in
craggy stratus
It says CAN there
craggy stratus
That's where I get a little lost because I haven't seen any resistance in the SB
native meadow
ohms are resistance
or rather, they're the units used to measure resistance
that "71 ohm" reading? THATS RESISTANCE
I'm just asking you to do the exact same process, but at the other connector
craggy stratus
The one in Manta?
native meadow
yes
craggy stratus
Ok
native meadow
touch one probe to each pin, and see what the meter says
native meadow
this is just so strange
we must be missing something
can I get pictures of...everything. what you're probing. how your meter is set. what the meter is reading (sorry, I know that last one is probably tricky with only two hands)
craggy stratus
can I get pictures of...everything. what you're probing. how your meter is set...
Yes
And what I'm measuring are the metal parts where the green and yellow wires are inserted
native meadow
that looks an awful lot like the wire is still plugged in
I need you to UNPLUG THAT, then probe the pins underneath
craggy stratus
I don't know which pins you're referring to
native meadow
the two in the connector that you just unplugged the green & yellow wires from
craggy stratus
ok
It's going to be difficult because I don't have anywhere to put the cable where it won't move around, so I can take the measurements correctly
But it's okay
native meadow
It's going to be difficult because I don't have anywhere to put the cable where ...
I'm not sure I'm understanding the issue
craggy stratus
To be sure, I measure the metal part of each of these connector holes, right?
native meadow
we've tossed the cable aside
let the cable go
we don't care about it right now
our interest is the port on the manta
the one that you took that out of
craggy stratus
Oh, okay, I thought that was what I was telling you with the photo
native meadow
Oh, okay, I thought that was what I was telling you with the photo
well the issue in the photo was that the green and yellow wire was still plugged in
which isn't what we want
we want to take our measurements in the open port
where the wire used to be
stray belfry
Sorry to jump in a little, can you put your probes together, nothing else and what does the multimeter say
craggy stratus
Sorry to jump in a little, can you put your probes together, nothing else and wh...
What are you referring to?
stray belfry
It is to check your meter is OK, put the probes together what does the screen say
craggy stratus
It is to check your meter is OK, put the probes together what does the screen sa...
Between 80 and 100 ohms
stray belfry
And that is without anything else connected, just the meter and probes?
craggy stratus
we want to take our measurements in the open port
We want to take the measurements from here, right?
native meadow
We want to take the measurements from here, right?
we do
craggy stratus
And that is without anything else connected, just the meter and probes?
What I have done is to bring together the two probes of the multimeter
native meadow
might be worth changing the batteries in your meter first though. 80-100ohm probe to probe is...strange
should be less than 1
stray belfry
Like this
craggy stratus
should be less than 1
But that's because when I brought the ends together, they slipped. Then there were times when it read less than 1 ohm
stray belfry
Not touching any part of the printer
native meadow
But that's because when I brought the ends together, they slipped. Then there we...
okay
native meadow
We want to take the measurements from here, right?
okay, so back to this
what do you get measuring between these two pins?
craggy stratus
32,45 ohms
stray belfry
You need for the probes to have a good connection/not moving and a good battery in, a low battery can skew the results alot
native meadow
You need for the probes to have a good connection/not moving and a good battery ...
low battery generally skews high, not low though, right?
so I don't think it would explain this?
craggy stratus
You need for the probes to have a good connection/not moving and a good battery ...
I don't know the battery status of my multimeter; my father brought it home from work the other day.
stray belfry
Different kit different results, I have a meter that goes all over the shop with a low battery
native meadow
Different kit different results, I have a meter that goes all over the shop with...
fair
craggy stratus
Different kit different results, I have a meter that goes all over the shop with...
So if I measure two pins with one multimeter, and then with another, will I get different results?
Is that what you meant?
stray belfry
Only if one meter or both are innacurate
native meadow
So if I measure two pins with one multimeter, and then with another, will I get ...
if you have a low battery, the solution would be to replace the battery, not involve a whole new meter
stray belfry
But you could use the meter to test some other known circuit as a sense test
craggy stratus
if you have a low battery, the solution would be to replace the battery, not inv...
Yes, I know
So, do you think I should change the multimeter battery?
native meadow
it certainly wouldn't hurt
the readings we are getting are very strange, in ways that I really don't have a good explanation for
so the battery change may not change anything, but at least its something we can rule out
craggy stratus
So, is there another way to continue now?
native meadow
so...I'm thinking about resistor math
and I'm realizing that the measurements you've taken are more or less consistent. a 70 ohm resistor and a 32 ohm resistor in parallel, DOES result in a total resistance of 21 ohms (ish)
which somewhat suggests that the readings you're getting are right, just bizarre
so I'd still like you to change the meter's battery when you can
but
I'm trying to figure out how those readings would happen
I know that at one point you had the green/yellow wire plugged into the wrong place, into a thermistor port
did it get plugged in to any OTHER locations?
native meadow
oh? where?
craggy stratus
Previously it was connected to another port labeled TH0
native meadow
yes, that's the thermistor port
"th" = thermistor
I knew about that
(and I'm not too worried about it. that shouldn't have damaged anything)
craggy stratus
Ok
native meadow
Do you remember the "120ohm" jumper on the manta?
craggy stratus
Yes
native meadow
If you remove it, and then take the same reading in the can0 port, what is the resistance then?
craggy stratus
I don't have it set up in Manta
native meadow
Explain
craggy stratus
I don't have the jumper installed
native meadow
Why not?
craggy stratus
Does it need to be installed?
native meadow
Yes
craggy stratus
Oh, so you think that could be the reason for the strange measurements earlier?
native meadow
32,45 ohms
Can you confirm: is this number what I (a North american) would write as 32.45 ? Or 32450?
Or something else
craggy stratus
Can you confirm: is this number what I (a North american) would write as 32.45 ...
32,45
That was what I had measured before
native meadow
32,45
I'm trying to clarify what notation you're using
32,45 means very different things in different parts of the world
And I think there might be a units thing happening here
craggy stratus
Those are the ohms I measured earlier
native meadow
(Which is at least partly our fault. I don't think we talked about that)
craggy stratus
(Which is at least partly our fault. I don't think we talked about that)
Ohms are units of resistance, right?
native meadow
Ohms are units of resistance, right?
Ya, but if there's a K or M over here on the meter, we might actually be talking about kilo ohms or megaohms
Which would change...everything
craggy stratus
Oh, okay, I get it now.
native meadow
So could you redo that measurement, and confirm what the screen is showing there?
craggy stratus
We want to take the measurements from here, right?
Do you mean that I should measure these pins?
native meadow
Yep
native meadow
Let's do without first, just because I'm curious
And then we'll add the jumper, and measure again
native meadow
Ah!
Okay
That, combined with the missing jumper, starts to make a little more sense
Let's get that jumper installed, and measure again please
native meadow
Are you sure it's still mega?
Because 116 ohm would be pretty much right on expectation
craggy stratus
Are you sure it's still mega?
I say megaohms because the multimeter shows the letter M.
native meadow
Are you sure it's still showing that letter when you are actually taking the measurement
Because I think it changed and you didn't notice
(Okay, okay. "I'm hoping" would be a more accurate description)
craggy stratus
I'm going to take the measurement again and see if the letter appears
native meadow
I guess I should explain: you have what's called an "auto-ranging" meter
craggy stratus
I'm going to take the measurement again and see if the letter appears
116,7 megaohms
native meadow
So when you take a measurement like this, you'll see it jumping through different ranges, kilo ohm mega ohm etc
Before it settles someplace
craggy stratus
116,7 megaohms
And yes, the letter M appeared.
native meadow
116,7 megaohms
Hmmm
What about when you do like Broski asked earlier?
Touching the probes together directly
What is the unit then?
craggy stratus
0,3
native meadow
Ohm? Megaohm?
craggy stratus
Megaohm
native meadow
Okay, something is weird here for sure (on the meter side)
That reading should definitely be just ohms, not megaohms
craggy stratus
It's possible, although it doesn't make sense to me because the M is still there
native meadow
I have to bail out here: I'm on my way to work. But installing that jumper on the manta may help
It may be worth plugging everything back together and seeing if you can get a uuid now
native meadow
You do have the jumper on the toolhead board installed as well, right?
You should have both of them
craggy stratus
No, I'm going to put that one
But I turn on the printer and try to get the UUID with those two jumpers? And I connect the CAN cable to the SB?
native meadow
(120ohm on manta and 120ohm on toolhead)
Yes. Install both 120 ohm jumpers. Reconnect can cabling
Then power up and try for a uuid
waxen agate
manta uuid
craggy stratus
But now we need to find the UUID of the SB board
But I'm not home right now, it will have to be later
waxen agate
manta klipper settings (clock reference was corrected)
craggy stratus
The clock reference was correct, right?
waxen agate
manta katapult settings
i am just revisiting other things that might have caused errors
we have covered so much ground here that we are close to declaring this unfixable
craggy stratus
I hope that's not the case, and that all the effort and time spent on the printer has been worth it
waxen agate
it may be that we have to abandon CANbus and have you pursue something else like a USB toolhead PCB or passive one
craggy stratus
I hope that's not the case, and that all the effort and time spent on the printe...
And the effort that we are all making as well
So you're saying I should replace the SB board with a different board?
waxen agate
i think we should have one more run through ALL the katapult and klipper settings before abandoning CANbus
craggy stratus
We'll have to do it later, because I'm not home right now.
craggy stratus
I found a note on this page: https://github.com/Esoterical/voron_canbus/blob/main/troubleshooting/no_uuid.md
which says:
Note: If your board is meant to be in Katapult mode, and you have a blinking LED on the toolhead indicating the board is in katapult mode (if the status LED is supported) then the Klipper service on the pi won't be grabbing the UUID. It will only record application: klipper UUID's.
Perhaps from here we can find the solution to the problem with the SB UUID
waxen agate
are you in a position to do some more testing?
craggy stratus
What kind of tests?
waxen agate
more flashing attempts.
craggy stratus
I'm not home yet. But when I get there, which will be soon, I'll try.
craggy stratus
Okay, I'm home now. Before I start running commands, I want to make sure of one thing.
You mean more attempts to flash Katapult on the SB, right?
craggy stratus
So what do I need to flash?
waxen agate
i was going to have you make sure the klipper service was stopped, before running the CAN query
run sudo service klipper stop
then with everything connected (can cable, jumpers in place etc) run ```python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flashtool.py -i can0 -q
Ok
waxen agate
no, you should not leave the USB cable connected.
craggy stratus
I still haven't obtained the UUID
waxen agate
one last thing to try, before i declare this an exercise in futility
go into mainsail, and go to the machine tab, and right click your printer.cfg, choose rename
craggy stratus
And what name should I give it?
waxen agate
config.old
waxen agate
then back to trying ```python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flashtool.py -i can0 -q
craggy stratus
Ok
Did I need to go into the katapult folder before running that command? I ask because I haven't gone in and the UUID hasn't appeared either.
waxen agate
you need to make sure the red LED on the toolhead is blinking, if necessary double-press the reset button on the toolhead PCB.
waxen agate
one last thing to check before i do say this is all futile
cd ~/klipper
then make menuconfig
and a screenshot please. this should be the klipper settings you used to flash the manta with.
waxen agate
that is all correct as i thought it would be
can you rename your config.old file back to printer.cfg and send a copy of it here please
craggy stratus
A copy of the file?
waxen agate
yes
normal oxide
If you go to mainsail, machine tab, can you see can0 interface and see the transmit/recieve data going up?
Also, considering theres >1500 messages here, is it possible you set up CAN using the old guide? Due to a system package update it may have stopped working
Check your can networkd, and if it has RestartSec=0.1 remove it
waxen agate
if you're going to drop stuff like that into this thread you need to give OP specific instructions. e.g.:
please run ```cat /etc/systemd/network/25-can.network
Should I run that command or is it just an example?
waxen agate
run that command to test this person's theory
craggy stratus
Okay, when I get home
craggy stratus
run that command to test this person's theory
With the USB and CAN cables connected or disconnected?
waxen agate
Doesn’t matter
waxen agate
Yes it’s as it should be.
craggy stratus
And what was the purpose of that command?
waxen agate
It shows the can network settings. Which we already knew were correct.
waxen agate
We’re at the point now where we have exhausted our resources. We have been through every setting and software aspect at least twice.
The only unexplained parts are your odd resistance measurements.
To progress further, you may need to enlist the help of someone local in your country with some electronics experience, or consider swapping to some more simple toolhead hardware like a USB or passive toolhead PCB.
craggy stratus
Which Stealthburner circuit boards are USB compatible?
waxen agate
LDO nitehawk SB would be my recommendation
craggy stratus
Okay. And is that board compatible with the Manta motherboard?
waxen agate
Yes
craggy stratus
Ok
And what's the difference between that board and the one I have in the Stealthburner?
waxen agate
It talks over USB, instead of CANbus. There is less to go wrong with it.
craggy stratus
Okay, I'll keep that in mind. Thank you so much for your recommendation and for all your help, and the same goes for everyone else
craggy stratus
Hi everyone. Before buying the USB circuit board, I tried again to detect the UUID and ran into the same problem as a few days ago. I detected a UUID, but the guide says that next to the UUID it should say "Application: Katapult," and what I see is "Application: Klipper." The instructions also say that if I see the latter, I should press the reset button twice and try again, but I keep getting the same result. As long as "Application: Klipper" appears next to the UUID, that UUID isn't the correct one, right?
By the way, I found this note in the Stealthburner board UUID troubleshooting guide. Do you know if my board (SB2209) supports Katapult mode?
waxen agate
Hi everyone. Before buying the USB circuit board, I tried again to detect the UU...
what did you change to get this?
that's a different UUID than you had for your octopus, so it does show promise for being a toolhead UUID, but confusing that it's a klipper ID
craggy stratus
I don't have the Octopus motherboard, I have the Manta M8P 2.0
craggy stratus
I don't remember exactly, but I think I went into some other manual and ran some command.
waxen agate
super helpful. please be more exact.
craggy stratus
I don't remember. Maybe if I go into the oldest MobaXterm session I can see it
Or not, because I just opened it and it won't let me see the commands I ran
In short, I don't remember
waxen agate
when you are working on things you don't fully understand i would encourage you to keep notes
not least because i have no idea what guide you were following to get part of the way to getting a toolhead katapult uuid
craggy stratus
Wasn't this the UUID of my motherboard (Manta M8P)?
waxen agate
this was your manta UUID.
UUID's don't just randomly change
unless you have been doing things you're not documenting in this thread
craggy stratus
I don't think I've done anything to cause the UUID of the SB or the Manta board to change randomly
By the way, the troubleshooting guide says what's shown in the rectangle in the photo.
Perhaps we already got the UUID at some point, but we ran the command again, and it's not showing up anymore. Although I'm not sure about this, since I don't remember
craggy stratus
Hello everyone. I've noticed something about the SB 2209: I've been confusing BOOT mode with Katapult mode all this time, and I think the reason we weren't getting the UUID of the electronic board when running the command python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flashtool.py -i can0 -q is because the board was in BOOT mode, not Katapult mode, although correct me if I'm wrong. The strange thing is that I tried forcing Katapult mode by pressing the SB's reset button twice (as the instructions say), and I still didn't get the UUID.
I'm doing all this because before buying a new board, I want to see if there's a new way to find the SB's UUID
normal oxide
Hello everyone. I've noticed something about the SB 2209: I've been confusing BO...
After pressing the reset button twice (or plugging and unplugging rapidly), do you see a flashing light that blinks perhaps once every 1-2 seconds?
craggy stratus
Yes
normal oxide
The blinking light indicates its in Katapult. Is your SB2209 currently connected to your Manta through CANBus?
craggy stratus
Yes
normal oxide
Do you have a 3rd board in-between the CAN wires and the SB2209 (a UTOC)?
craggy stratus
I don't know which electronic board the UTOC is
normal oxide
As in, is it
Manta <--wires--> SB2209
or is it
Manta <--wires--> another board <--> SB2209
craggy stratus
Manta <--wires--> SB2209
normal oxide
Your Manta is connected over USB-CAN bridge, correct?
normal oxide
Manta <--wires--> SB2209
Go into mainsail, machine tab and take a screenshot of the right side
craggy stratus
Your Manta is connected over USB-CAN bridge, correct?
Are you asking if the SB 2209 is connected to the Manta via the CAN cable?
If so, yes
normal oxide
And just to confirm the UUID doesnt show up, in the top right corner of that screenshot you can press devices, select can0 and press refresh
normal oxide
No device was found
Can you go to the USB tab, and check it says something about a CAN adapter?
craggy stratus
I see two devices, but it doesn't mention anything about a CAN adapter
normal oxide
I see two devices, but it doesn't mention anything about a CAN adapter
I would expect something like this as the output
normal oxide
I see two devices, but it doesn't mention anything about a CAN adapter
Can you take a screenshot?
normal oxide
Interesting, as the previous posters have mentioned, everything in the config is correct
normal oxide
Following the pinned message in #can_and_usb_toolhead_boards, can you take a picture of this chip with the text visible clearly?
craggy stratus
Ok
normal oxide
If you don't want to take it apart, you can also try just flashing the different version onto it
This is the message I am referring to
craggy stratus
Following the pinned message in <#1076243803947667516>, can you take a picture o...
I couldn't capture the text with my phone because it's so small, but I was able to read it, and this is what it says:
RP2-P2 21/52
PCU 146 00
normal oxide
I couldn't capture the text with my phone because it's so small, but I was able ...
I've mistaken the place to look, can you take a look around your board and see if you find any 4 digit numbers (not 2209)
It should be printed on the board itself, not on the components
Check both sides
waxen agate
flash chip is on the backside
i had discounted this theory quietly as we saw the katapult LED status
normal oxide
i clicked out of curiosity of what could have taken 1500 messages to solve and i can see why now
normal oxide
i had discounted this theory quietly as we saw the katapult LED status
at the point of 1500 messages i think it's worth trying anything
craggy stratus
at the point of 1500 messages i think it's worth trying anything
Like what?
craggy stratus
Hello everyone again. I finally got the UUID for the SB, and I got to this point, where I get this error, and I think it comes from the printer.cfg file, but I'm not entirely sure
native meadow
Hello everyone again. I finally got the UUID for the SB, and I got to this point...
it could come from the config: misidentifying the pin the thermistor is connected into
I'd say 90% of the time that message boils down to "the hotend thermistor isn't plugged / isn't plugged into the correct place
craggy stratus
I looked in the Voron documentation, and the hotend thermistor goes on port TH0, but I turned on the printer and got the same error
No, sorry, I think I've made a mistake. I believe what I've done is take the connector from the bed's thermistor cable and switch it to the port I mentioned earlier (on the Manta board). Previously, it was connected to port THB
By the way, I forgot to mention that before I get that error, when I turn on the printer, Klipper runs for a millisecond, but after that, I get this error.
native meadow
I looked in the Voron documentation, and the hotend thermistor goes on port TH0,...
Th0 where?
(The manta and the toolhead board both have ports called "th0")
craggy stratus
I haven't seen any port called TH0 on the SB board
native meadow
craggy stratus
Thanks
And the hotend thermistor cable is the white one, right? I ask because I have it connected to a different port
native meadow
I'm not sure: I don't actually remember what hotend you have
craggy stratus
It was either the Dragon Standard Flow or the Dragon High Flow, I know it was one of these two, but I can't remember which one
native meadow
The funny thing is, that doesn't actually help me know the wire colours. The dragon stuff (either version) uses separate modules for the heater and thermistor
So there's no real consistency of wire color
craggy stratus
I took a picture of the two hotend cables
native meadow
You'll have to actually just look at the hotend itself. You'll see that the wires come from two cylindrical pieces
The larger cylinder is the heater and the smaller one is the thermistor
craggy stratus
I tried putting the larger cable into the THO port on the SB board, but it didn't go in
native meadow
I'm confused. Why did you try that?
craggy stratus
Because I thought it was wrong and that it had to be put there
native meadow
The wire from the small cylinder. (Which I'd also expect to be the smaller wire) would be what goes there
There may be a further side bar here though
This is a formbot kit, isn't it?
native meadow
As I recall, formbot kits currently ship with a pt1000
Which means you plug it into the max31865 port, not th0
But then we're left with a config question. Aren't you using the config file formbot provides?
Or are you using something else
craggy stratus
For the printer.cfg file?
native meadow
Yes
craggy stratus
I think so
native meadow
What does it say at the top of the file?
(Nothing may be a valid answer: the formbot one doesnt have any notes at the top about what it is, but most others do have something)
craggy stratus
What does it say at the top of the file?
I need to turn on the printer to see that. I'll reconnect the SB cables to where they were and turn it on
This is what it says at the top
native meadow
Uh.
A generic config file?
Not sure where that would have come from
Neither the voron docs, nor the formbot docs would have sent you that direction
craggy stratus
Should I use the formbot one?
native meadow
That would be my suggestion. Though it has to be fixed a little bit. There are some mistakes in it, that for some reason, formbot can't be bothered to fix
But its the closest match, the least work to get right, even with that
craggy stratus
Okay, I'll use that file when I can, because I have to go now
craggy stratus
I've already put what was in the formbot file into my printer.cfg file, and I've changed some settings according to the errors I was getting, but now I'm getting this error, and I have no idea why it's happening
native meadow
"I've changed some settings according to the errors"....
Any particular settings?
Or should we just pick some random ones
But if I had to guess, I'd guess that error might come from not having the 4 dip switches that configure the max31865 set correctly
craggy stratus
Any particular settings?
No. If, for example, it told me: "This needs to be specified," then I looked to see if it had any information in the file itself (which sometimes it did), and based on that information I put one thing or another there.
native meadow
No. If, for example, it told me: "This needs to be specified," then I looked to ...
Yes. But the thing is, you're basically making us guess what you may have done
By just saying "I changed some things " without being specific
But regardless.
Start with the dip switches
How are they set at the moment?
craggy stratus
How are they set at the moment?
What are you referring to?
native meadow
Look at the picture
It shows you what I'm talking about
Little bank of 4 little switches on the toolhead board
craggy stratus
By just saying "I changed some things " without being specific
Ah, okay, I've seen it now
If we look at the SB from here, all the switches are down except for number 4
I'm not showing the switches because I couldn't capture them with my mobile phone camera
native meadow
Okay, so do you see the settings I circled in the picture I posted?
You need to set them to match
native meadow
No, you should power down and then fix them
craggy stratus
Ok
native meadow
(It would probably be fine. But, best not to risk it)
craggy stratus
Ok
I turned on the printer and I'm getting this error
And I moved the switches as required
Anyway, I was getting this error before.
native meadow
What does your [extruder] section look like right now?
native meadow
Well, I agree with klipper 😛 you don't seem to have a max_temp in there...
Since you're using a pt1000, you could probably do like 300
So max_temp:300
native meadow
Hmm. Back to that...
I was hoping the dip switches were all that was needed there....
Can we just confirm how they're set now?
I know you can't easily get a photo. But talk me through it?
craggy stratus
I removed the screws from the plate earlier and was able to take a photograph
native meadow
That looks like on , off, on ,on
craggy stratus
Yes
native meadow
But I believe the image I sent says you want on,on, off, on
craggy stratus
I think that's how it is, but I'll try
native meadow
Well it can't be both. Is the second switch off or on?
craggy stratus
On
native meadow
Okay, and the third switch?
craggy stratus
Off
native meadow
Okay. So that's different from how you had it when you took the photo
(Both those switches were in the opposite positions of that)
craggy stratus
Klipper is running after setting the switches this way
native meadow
Alright, that's a significant step!
You should add [include mainsail.cfg] so that big yellow warning goes away.
native meadow
Huh. I...recognise that, but I'm very confused how it actually ended up on your machine
That's like somebody manually copy/pasting from github or something
Do you have a "client.cfg" on your machine?
craggy stratus
A file with that name?
craggy stratus
No, I don't have it
native meadow
Okay
Well, we'll have to fix this somehow... let's see...
Can you ssh into the machine and do ls ~, and show me the results?
craggy stratus
native meadow
alright
lets do
rm ~/printer_data/config/mainsail.cfg
wget https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mainsail-crew/mainsail-config/refs/heads/master/client.cfg -O ~/printer_data/config/mainsail.cfg
that should clean it up
(that's two commands, not 3, incidentally: the second one is just long and line wraps on most screens)
you also might want to erase that long "udo" thing. that's some kind of typo where something that was supposed to be a command became a filename instead. if you type rm udo and then BEFORE you press enter, press tab a couple of times, it should tab complete that long weird filename. then you can just press enter to run the command and delete it
native meadow
Then I think you're in a position to start working through this guide:
fierce roverBOT
native meadow
Keep in mind please. This guide is mostly about fine details
Please read carefully, and pay close attention
"I think" and "I guess" are going to be your enemies here
craggy stratus
Ok
I set the bed to 50 degrees, and it didn't heat up, and now Klipper has stopped running and I'm getting this error
native meadow
I set the bed to 50 degrees, and it didn't heat up, and now Klipper has stopped ...
well if the bed doesn't heat when expected, it triggers safety systems, yes
that part is working as intented
you can reset it with the firmware restart button there
but, you know...you also need to fix the actual problem
generally speaking, that would indicate something isn't wired right
the simplest starting point is often to look at the SSR: is the light on it flashing, when the bed is trying to heat (before it errors out?)
if the light IS flashing, then the main voltage wiring of the heater is the problem. if the light IS NOT flashing, then the problem is control side: low voltage control wiring &/or klipper config problem
craggy stratus
the simplest starting point is often to look at the SSR: is the light on it fla...
Where is that light you're referring to?
waxen agate
Where is that light you're referring to?
There is a circular hole on the body of the SSR.
craggy stratus
I don't see any light there
runic iron
I don't see any light there
the light is only active, if the SSR is switching to ON.
i.e. you tell klipper to heat the bed
craggy stratus
That's what I did yesterday, but it didn't heat up, and then Klipper stopped running and gave me an error
runic iron
That's what I did yesterday, but it didn't heat up, and then Klipper stopped run...
ok but for this test you have to tell klipper to heat the bed WHILE you are looking at the SSR, to be more accurate, the LED of the SSR
runic iron
I don't see any light there
is a cable attached here on the SSR? red circle
craggy stratus
No
runic iron
then how is the bed supposed to get power 😄 ?
we dont have wireless electricity yet
but first check if the SSR is blinking as i said above
craggy stratus
There are no lights on or flashing
By the way, I've heard that to turn off the printer, it's best not to unplug it abruptly, as this can damage the SD card. But then, if none of the circled buttons work, neither on Mainsail nor from the printer's screen, how do I turn it off properly?
I ask because until now, to turn off the printer, I've been unplugging it directly with the power switch, and I didn't know that could damage the SD card until now, so I want to make sure I'm turning it off correctly
waxen agate
By the way, I've heard that to turn off the printer, it's best not to unplug it ...
you are correct. click the bottom one to shut down.
craggy stratus
The Shutdown button isn't working. I mean, I press it, and apparently everything stays the same
craggy stratus
we dont have wireless electricity yet
I have the bed cable connected to the other side, where the green circle is. I have it connected there because that's what the instructions say. I've sent you a picture of the page where it says so.
runic iron
I have the bed cable connected to the other side, where the green circle is. I h...
yes but 230V works with 3 wires
Live / L
neutral / N
Earth/Ground / PE
the SSR is just like a light switch u have in your room.
it cuts or connects a wire so electricity can flow. But u only have 1 wire on the side of the SSR connected which it switches ON/OFF, so how is electricity supposed to flow? 🙂 bed needs 230V, your MCU runs on 24V.
runic iron
I have the bed cable connected to the other side, where the green circle is. I h...
"AC LOAD" on your screenshot (see SSR in the manual) is where electricity has to flow if the ssr switches to ON - like a light switch as i said.
runic iron
I have the bed cable connected to the other side, where the green circle is. I h...
"INPUT" on your screenshot (see SSR in the manual) is where the SSR gets the signal for "hey turn on", "hey turn off". this signal comes from your MCU.
to go back to the light switch - this "signal" comes from you by pressing/switching the light switch
please tell me if this helped understand it better
craggy stratus
I think so, thank you very much
What I haven't seen are any other disconnected cables, except for the SB one, which I don't know where it goes
runic iron
What I haven't seen are any other disconnected cables, except for the SB one, wh...
lets ignore everything else and only focus on the SSR please
we need 100% focus
runic iron
I have the bed cable connected to the other side, where the green circle is. I h...
please go to page 183 of the VORON 2.4 manual.
have a VERY VERY close look at the SSR.
as u can see, thats how the other cable gets connected.
if u go to page 188 u will see a "alternative" wiring, if u use a WAGO, as described on the page itself.
this is a formbot kit, correct?
if YES, formbot has its own wiring diagram
craggy stratus
this is a formbot kit, correct?
if YES, formbot has its own wiring diagram
Yes, the kit is from Formbot
runic iron
Yes, the kit is from Formbot
ok then please have a look at the Formbot wiring diagram, specifically the SSR wiring/AC LOAD wiring.
craggy stratus
ok then please have a look at the Formbot wiring diagram, specifically the SSR w...
Ok
This diagram, right?
runic iron
This diagram, right?
correct.
AC LOAD of the SSR is labeled with 1 and 2 in this picture
craggy stratus
And that's where the bed cable goes, right? On 1 or 2
runic iron
And that's where the bed cable goes, right? On 1 or 2
no
please zoom in on 1 and 2
use your finger to trace down the brown line connect to 1.
use your finger to trace down the brown line connect to 2.
the numbers of the wiring diagram, represent the numbers on the SSR.
number 1 is not visible on the picture due to the cable but its there 😉
craggy stratus
The cable going to terminal 2 follows the arrow's path, so I assume I'll have to move the cable I have connected to terminal 1 to terminal 2. Is that correct?
I'm asking to make sure
runic iron
The cable going to terminal 2 follows the arrow's path, so I assume I'll have to...
yes correct.
craggy stratus
Ok
runic iron
after u have done that, please use your finger to follow the brown line of AC LOAD *** 1***
this is what u are missing
craggy stratus
Ok
The thing is, I don't have this thing that's circled; I haven't seen it in my box
runic iron
The thing is, I don't have this thing that's circled; I haven't seen it in my bo...
what do u have instead? nothing?
are the cables from the "filtered power inlet" directly going to the PSU?
craggy stratus
This is the PSU, right?
craggy stratus
what do u have instead? nothing?
are the cables from the "filtered power inlet" ...
I think so, because I believe the PSU is what I circled in the previous photo. Is that the PSU?
craggy stratus
This is the PSU, right?
This photo
runic iron
This is the PSU, right?
correct
please double check your package and search for the part u are missing
if u cant find it, you will need to buy a WAGO
in this picture it looks like your SSR is not connected to PE. How is PE wire from the bed connected?
craggy stratus
please double check your package and search for the part u are missing
Okay, but does that part come already assembled? I ask because I might have seen it before, but disassembled, and that's why I didn't know what it was.
runic iron
Okay, but does that part come already assembled? I ask because I might have seen...
i dont know, show us what u have.
runic iron
Could this be what we're looking for?
unpack it
compare it with Formbots wiring diagram
craggy stratus
This is it, I just opened it.
craggy stratus
compare it with Formbots wiring diagram
I've already compared it, this is it
runic iron
I've already compared it, this is it
awesome, so u forgot to install something which is shown in the wiring diagram 😅😅
please undo your wiring and fix it now according to the diagram.
once done, double check your work. after double checking, triple check
craggy stratus
please undo your wiring and fix it now according to the diagram.
once done, doub...
Do you mean anchoring it to the correct rail?
runic iron
Do you mean anchoring it to the correct rail?
i mean u have to look at the FORMBOT Wiring diagram and fix your wiring accoringly. because u are holding something in your hand which should be installed on your printer 😉
craggy stratus
A new cable, right?
runic iron
A new cable, right?
everything u need is provided by formbot.
since u forgot something already (what u hold in your hands), you probably missed/forgot something else as well
so again, have a look at the FORMBOT wiring diagram and fix your wiring accordingly.
check all bags and packages that u have from the kit again. after checking, double check again
craggy stratus
Ok
craggy stratus
so again, have a look at the FORMBOT wiring diagram and fix your wiring accordin...
I've been trying to anchor this to its corresponding rail for quite some time now, but it won't anchor for some reason; something is preventing it
native meadow
I've been trying to anchor this to its corresponding rail for quite some time no...
What's actually on the bottom of that thing? (I've never actually seen one, since I've never built a formbot kit)
craggy stratus
native meadow
Ah ya, okay. So should just click on
Hook the side I've circled in red first
Then pop the blue on
It'll probably take more force than you expect
craggy stratus
That's what I've been doing, and I've even done it with others and haven't had any problems, but with this one, even if I force it, it doesn't fit, so I'm afraid I might break something
native meadow
I mean, the good news is the clip is a printed part, so even if you did break it, it's replaceable (once you have the printer running)
craggy stratus
I mean, the good news is the clip is a printed part, so even if you *did* break ...
No, I'm not worried about the clip, because I have another printer besides the Voron and I can reprint it. What worries me is applying too much force and damaging what's circled in the photo, which is the circuit board.
native meadow
Unscrew the clip from the circuit board, attach the clip, then screw the pcb back on...
craggy stratus
I don't know how they put it there, I took a look earlier and I don't see the screws
native meadow
I'd assume you start with the 2 screws that are in plain sight on your photo
And then maybe there are more screws underneath
(But admittedly, i don't know that for sure)
craggy stratus
(But admittedly, i don't know that for sure)
What you're saying makes sense. I'll remove them when I can
craggy stratus
Hello, everyone. I have managed to heat up the bed, and now I have tried to move the stepper x, but when I did so, Klipper stopped running and I got this error, which I think comes from the printer.cfg file
craggy stratus
I realised that the motor cables were connected incorrectly, so I reconnected them properly, but now I am getting the same error for the same stepper
waxen agate
I realised that the motor cables were connected incorrectly, so I reconnected th...
klipper can't talk to the stepper drivers as they are configured.
check the jumpers under the drivers are in the correct position.
check the drivers are in the correct slots.
craggy stratus
When you say drivers, are you referring to the motor cable connectors in this case?
Perhaps I just made that up
craggy stratus
I don't know what you mean
craggy stratus
Yes
waxen agate
so you need to check the jumpers under them are present and correct
craggy stratus
All right, I'll check it out, but as far as I can remember, there aren't any jumpers underneath any of them
craggy stratus
Where does it say that?
waxen agate
that is the manta user manual
https://github.com/bigtreetech/Manta-M8P/blob/master/V2.0/BIGTREETECH MANTA M8P V2.0 User Manual.pdf
waxen agate
there are more to check, if you've not fitted any
top of page 12- the power jumpers for the motor drivers
make sure these are fitted
craggy stratus
I think that was also mentioned in the kit diagram
And to put the jumpers under the drivers, they have to be the same size as the base again, right?
waxen agate
yes
craggy stratus
Ok
Do you know what kind of jumpers are required to put there? I can't find the right size
waxen agate
the largest ones
craggy stratus
I tried the larger bridge and it is still crooked, which means it fits, but there is a lot of space between the pins and the slot in the bridge where the pins are inserted, at least that is what I am deducing
I don't know if you can see it in the photo, but the jumper is crooked
waxen agate
its on the wrong pins anyway
craggy stratus
It's true
But I suppose the same thing will happen when I insert the jumper into the other pins
So I can't find the correct jumper
waxen agate
these ones are very standard 2.54mm pitch
craggy stratus
these ones are very standard 2.54mm pitch
Of all the black jumpers I have (which are the ones that will work, because I have few white ones), the one circled is the one I was using now
I don't know if this could be of any help to you
craggy stratus
Hello, everyone. I finally managed to set up the jumpers, and I even got all the motors and endstop sensors working correctly. But now I'm at this step in the instructions that shiftingtech gave me, and I'm getting this error. I'm also attaching a screenshot of the part of my printer.cfg file that is related to the error. The only thing I did to make it appear was to put a # where it said ‘Uncomment for 300 or 350mm build’ in the ‘quad_gantry_level’ section
And this is the error I get
waxen agate
Hello, everyone. I finally managed to set up the jumpers, and I even got all the...
"probe points" should be commented out e.g.
## Probe points
craggy stratus
Are you referring to where it says ‘points’ or to the values below?
craggy stratus
Okay, thank you, I've put in ## and Klipper is working again
By the way, now I have to run the command QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL and in this way, the four points will be probed several times, but in this case, are those the points that the machine has to probe at the corners? I say this because in my case, the corners are not being probed, as can be seen in the video
waxen agate
what does the rest of your [quad_gantry_level] section look like
you should have a part something like this speed: 100 horizontal_move_z: 10 retries: 5 retry_tolerance: 0.01 max_adjust: 10
waxen agate
ok. what does the console output look like when running a QGL?
craggy stratus
What is a QGL?
waxen agate
QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL
craggy stratus
Ok
craggy stratus
ok. what does the console output look like when running a QGL?
I recorded it because the data appears as the machine moves
native meadow
Whats the complaint exactly? It looks like it visits the 4 corners to me...
waxen agate
well rather miraculously it's hitting its tolerance on the first attempt at each corner
i.e. it's working as intended
craggy stratus
Whats the complaint exactly? It looks like it visits the 4 corners to me...
It doesn't reach the four corners, it stays far away.
craggy stratus
By the way, now I have to run the command `QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL` and in this way, t...
Anyway, you can see it in this video
waxen agate
it's probing where it's told to in the code you have shown
native meadow
It doesn't reach the four corners, it stays far away.
Meh. Looks like 4 corners to me
The back corners are kinda far forward, but that's normal: it's related to making sure conventional probes (that sit in the back of the toolhead) stay on the bed
Since it looks like you are using tap, you could probably adjust the points farther back if you want, but your qgl seems to be doing just fine as it is...
craggy stratus
So, when I run this command, does the nozzle have to reach exactly all four corners?
waxen agate
no
native meadow
It has to reach the 4 points defined in your config
craggy stratus
no
Okay. And what this command does, as far as I can see, is level the printer, right?
waxen agate
the gantry.
craggy stratus
the gantry.
Ok
Now I think I understand this part, but I want to ask you just in case. Here the instructions tell me to repeat the command but with the hotend at 150 degrees and the bed at 100 degrees, right?
native meadow
Correct
craggy stratus
Ok
native meadow
I hate to bring it up, but what is going on with your gantry cabling? The open z cable chains? the complete lack of cable management on the toolhead cable? That all looks like disaster waiting to happen
craggy stratus
Because I haven't finished assembling the printer yet, although I've assembled enough of it for it to work, but that doesn't mean I won't have to fix the cables later on
native meadow
I get the desire to see the machine actually doing something, but be careful. Bad things are going to happen in a hurry, with the toolhead cable just dragging around like that
craggy stratus
I plan to continue with the assembly when the machine starts printing (even if the quality isn't good), but for now I have to keep an eye on it while it does anything
And of course, I'll be careful
native meadow
I would really encourage you to not attempt any prints until you've fixed that cabling
craggy stratus
Okay, I'll fix the cables before printing. The only thing is, I'm not very good at handling cables, but thank you for the recommendation
Do you think it would be okay to continue now until the machine has to start printing for the first time, and then sort out the cables before it prints?
waxen agate
Do you think it would be okay to continue now until the machine has to start pri...
you are at a point now where "buttoning up" all the wiring and making it safe and secure makes sense
craggy stratus
And do you know what is usually done with the CAN cable to protect it?
waxen agate
usually the kit includes some sleeving and cable glands
craggy stratus
Yes, I used sleeving, but I'm not sure I put it on correctly. And I don't think I put any cable glands on, and I don't know how to put them on either
waxen agate
cable gland
sometimes wire is included to stiffen the cable
using the glands as strain relief is important for longevity of the cable
craggy stratus
I have fixed the problem I was having with the CAN cable: the axis motor can now move correctly until it makes contact with the end stop on the same axis. After fixing the problem, and seeing that there are no other cables that are faulty, as the CAN cable initially was, I started a print, but I had a small problem: the motors were moving correctly, but despite having inserted the filament, it was not coming out of the nozzle. I also tried to extrude it manually, but that did not work either. Does anyone know why this might be?
waxen agate
Are you sure the extruder motor was moving correctly
craggy stratus
When I tell it to move, I hear it moving
waxen agate
That doesn’t mean it’s turning the correct way
craggy stratus
But yesterday I separated the hotend from the head as shown in the image, and inserted a piece of filament to check if it was extruding correctly (well, I don't know if it would be considered extruding, since I had temporarily removed the hotend at that moment), and the motor was able to push the filament correctly
waxen agate
that would have been useful information to share
with the nozzle preheated, and the filament latch undone, you should be able to push filament through by hand
craggy stratus
But with the toolhead mounted or dismounted?
waxen agate
fully assembled.
have you remembered to fit the PTFE tubing at the top of the hotend
craggy stratus
Yes
waxen agate
cutting the filament to a pointed tip can help also
craggy stratus
Right, I'll give it a try
For some reason, the filament isn't reaching the hotend, and yesterday when I took apart the stealthburner, I didn't see anything unusual
craggy stratus
It turns out that it has entered the hotend, but it is stuck inside. I have tried to remove it with the hotend heated, first to 220 degrees and then to 250, but it is not coming out
waxen agate
looks like it has melted above the heatbreak. you should check the hotend fan was running properly.
to remedy this you will need to remove the hotend from the lower part of the stealthburner, apply heat, and carefully pull the filament remnant out
craggy stratus
In theory, the filament should be hot, since the hotend is hot. Would it be possible to push the filament down somehow so that it comes out of the nozzle?
waxen agate
i would not recommend trying to push it out downwards, you may just worsen the clog
the question about the hotend fan spinning still stands, as the most likely cause of this problem
craggy stratus
It does not work
The thing is, I don't have a heat gun to apply heat to the hot end once it's out. How can I apply heat so that I can remove the filament?
waxen agate
either find a safe external heatsource, or use the hotend itself
craggy stratus
Do you mean I should heat the hotend while the printer is on? I don't quite understand
craggy stratus
It seems that the obstruction is caused by a small piece of filament that I can hear when I shake the hotend. At this point, would you recommend connecting the hotend to the printer, heating it up, and inserting a needle through the nozzle to see if that gets it out? Or something above it so that the piece of loose filament, now hot, comes out through the nozzle
craggy stratus
Okay, I put something in the nozzle to clean it and a little melted filament came out. But you also told me to check if the hotend fan was working, and right now neither of the fans I have installed (which are the two from the Stealthburner) are working
waxen agate
the hotend fan should come on whenever any temperature is set in mainsail.
the part cooling fan should have a slider that controls it in mainsail.
If neither are working you will need to check their wiring, particularly pay attention to their polarity.
we will also need to re-examine your config, so an up to date klippy.log will be useful.
craggy stratus
the hotend fan should come on whenever any temperature is set in mainsail.
the ...
The hotend fan does not work at any time, not even when the hotend reaches temperatures of 200 degrees or higher
waxen agate
i'd suggest you show pictures of where the fans plug in in a photo. and a copy of your latest klippy.log.
waxen agate
wiring and config appear correct.
this could mean that the connection between the fan PCB and main toolhead PCB is not being made properly.
did you notice if the toolhead RGB LEDs were working?
craggy stratus
The LEDs are not working
waxen agate
then my suspicion that the inter-PCB connection is not good, remains the most likely possibility
you need to be very careful to line that connector up properly
craggy stratus
So, how can I ensure a good connection between the electronic board in the housing and the electronic board in the printhead (the SB), besides being careful?
waxen agate
making sure all the stealthburner faceplate screws are well fastened, and the two parts are flush
craggy stratus
The screws on the base of the case, no matter how much I tighten them, keep turning; they never get stiff. Although, to be fair, they're not as loose as a screw that's practically stripped from its threads, for example
And how can I also make the two parts flush?
They used to be (and the fan still didn't work), but once I took it apart and put it back together, they're no longer flush
waxen agate
Pictures from all around please
craggy stratus
waxen agate
This all looks acceptable
craggy stratus
Then the problem is something else
And I can't move the SB electronic board any further back because it's screwed in
waxen agate
in this scenario I sometimes ask people to unscrew the fan PCB from the faceplate, and connect it to the main PCB, leaving the faceplate hanging by the fan wires. then power up and test the fans again.
it should be said that any time you are plugging or unplugging the PCBs the power should be off.
craggy stratus
The toolhead housing fan is connected to the red housing board, and since this board works by connecting to the SB via pins, if I remove the housing, that board automatically disconnects
waxen agate
yes. i want you to remove the fan PCB from the front housing.
craggy stratus
Do you mean unscrewing the circuit board from the housing?
waxen agate
yes.
this step, in reverse
but leaving the fans/RGB connected
just to reiterate, all of this should be being done with the power off, misplugging these connections can kill PCBs quickly
waxen agate
yes. now connect the fan PCB to the main PCB
craggy stratus
Okay, but for that I have to screw it back into the housing
waxen agate
no
there is enough slack in the cables to let you plug it in separately
we are testing the connection between the two PCBs
craggy stratus
Okay, so I'm going to connect it without screwing it in. When I do that, do I turn on the printer?
waxen agate
show a photo first
craggy stratus
A photo of the board connected to the SB?
waxen agate
yes
craggy stratus
waxen agate
are you satisfied that the connector is properly aligned, and as well connected as possible
craggy stratus
Yes
waxen agate
then you can try powering it up
waxen agate
yes
craggy stratus
Ok
I've tried increasing and decreasing the fan speed from here, and it hasn't worked
waxen agate
then something more serious has likely failed, like that fan PCB.
i will have to defer to any other observers in this thread to see if they have any other ideas.
craggy stratus
Ok
I'm starting to suspect that the problem is that the housing board isn't working
Because if it's plugged in, but neither the LEDs nor the fan are working, then that's the next thing I deduce
I don't see any LEDs lighting up on the board either. I don't know if it has one, but right now, with it connected to the SB, I don't see any LEDs like I can see on the SB board
waxen agate
the fan PCB does not have any LEDs.
craggy stratus
Then I don't know what's wrong with the board that neither the fans nor the LEDs are working, unless the problem is that the board is not working
waxen agate
the most common cause of failure is the fan PCB being plugged in out of alignment with the power connected
we see it a lot
craggy stratus
In my case it's perfectly aligned
waxen agate
you can buy the sb0000 PCB separately
craggy stratus
Do you recommend I do it now? Or are there any other tests we can do with the board I have right now?
Or now that I think about it, could it be a configuration issue rather than a motherboard malfunction, or something similar?
waxen agate
there are no other useful tests.
it is not a config issue based on your last klippy.log.
craggy stratus
So, you'd recommend I buy the board, right?
waxen agate
i see it as the cheapest possible way of getting this working
craggy stratus
The cheapest way, and as far as I know, the only way, because I can't think of any other
waxen agate
The cheapest way, and as far as I know, the only way, because I can't think of a...
the thought occurred to me- did we ever check your fan voltage jumpers?
the same jumper applies to both fans
waxen agate
its written on their labels. in one of your pictures above it shows 24v
craggy stratus
Now, of the two fans in the red housing, the top one works, but the bottom one doesn't
Although I just pressed emergency stop and the one below just turned on
waxen agate
top one should be manually controllable, bottom one should come on when a temperature is set (and will be set to blow when e-stop is active)
craggy stratus
So, if I set the hotend to 240 degrees, for example, will that fan turn on?
waxen agate
it should, yes
craggy stratus
I'm going to try
It works
Thank you so much, I hadn't thought about the jumpers
Now I have to figure out how to load the filament, because I had a jam the other day, and I think you saw the picture
With the extruder at 200 degrees and the fan running, can the filament be loaded?
waxen agate
yes. my theory at the time was that you had heatcreep causing a jam. hopefully that will not be the case now
that should be adequate for PLA, yes
craggy stratus
Okay, I'm going to try loading the filament, and then I'll try to get it printing
craggy stratus
When I start the print, after the printer levels itself, I get a message that says: "Extruder temperature too low", but it doesn't automatically raise it
craggy stratus
I can't believe what I'm seeing
There are still a few things to fix, but thank you all so much, really
craggy stratus
This is how the cube turned out
I'll keep it like a treasure
I did notice some layer shifts when the printer was finishing the cube, but it's not a big issue at the moment
craggy stratus
There are still a few things to fix, but thank you all so much, really
For example, when I start a print job, there comes a point where I have to pause the print and manually increase the hotend temperature for the printer to print. Otherwise, I get an error message that says: "Temperature too low"
waxen agate
For example, when I start a print job, there comes a point where I have to pause...
integrating the better print start macro linked above will fix that
craggy stratus
Okay, that appears in the guide that shiftingtech shared
craggy stratus
I entered the correct values in my printer.cfg file, exactly as shown in the screenshot instructions, but I've realized those aren't the correct values. Does anyone know the correct values?
And I know this because of this error that has appeared
craggy stratus
Yes
waxen agate
That is not a chamber thermistor. That’s the temperature of your single board computer.
craggy stratus
Oh, that's right, I lost my mind for a moment
But aren't there only two thermistors? The one on the print bed and the one on the hotend
native meadow
Pretty sure the formbot kit includes a chamber thermistor. Whether or not you installed it? 🤷
craggy stratus
I don't know what kind of thermistor that is
waxen agate
I don't know what kind of thermistor that is
a third thermistor that sits in the chamber, connects to your mainboard, and lets you have accurate heat soaks
craggy stratus
I have a thermistor for the print bed, but I don't remember ever installing a third one
native meadow
Perhaps it's still in a bag someplace
craggy stratus
Maybe
I just checked all the bags in my box and didn't see any camera thermistor, and if it is there, I couldn't recognize it
waxen agate
well, you can source any generic thermistor you want from amazon or similar, so long as the type is clearly stated in the listing
this is an essential piece of hardware
craggy stratus
But I have a question: Is this thermistor necessary to solve my current printing problem? The problem is that when the hotend finishes leveling, the temperature is below 200 degrees, and I get a warning that says, "Hotend temperature not high enough," but the temperature doesn't automatically increase
stray belfry
Have you got a picture of the temperature screen/graph when this is happening?