Lazychanger - A 300mm V2 toolchanger

[naive coral]

Well technically that is about the same thing as madmax, so maybe it would be worth adopting that system for monolith 🤔

[solid belfry]

I am trying here lol. I need to wait for luke to send me chube compact info to make the chube compact version

I am also doing a redesign of the fromt toolhead so it looks nicer and fits the docks better

[naive coral]

and you really think the stealtchanger approach is the best way? i feel like even with more magnets we wont escape the shitty pin and bearing tolerances and play 🤔

[solid belfry]

Yeah I might end up restarting

If you have any ideas please ping me

it should be pretty solid with bushings that aren't a slip fit

[naive coral]

#1434612830614585476 message 😅

[solid belfry]

these will require a bit of force to push the pin in

[naive coral]

max well coupling seams a lot more rigid then stealtchanger

[naive coral]

i did swap to new bushings today that are a snug fit, but ofc now the toolhead doesnt tap anymore (likely because the backplate isnt perfect)

[solid belfry]

That looks like a maxwell coupling

[naive coral]

yea

im gonna order all the stuff that i need for madmax toolchanger and try to install that one for the time beeing

should be doable on a v2 with a front cross beam as well for even faster toolchanges

and i know maxwell couplings aint great but they cant be any worse then pins and bushings 😅

[solid belfry]

I will have to think. There are options out there but they are either not compact or way too complicated

[naive coral]

yep, have a look at madmax from the side. the footprint really isnt that bad and could be reduced even further with the use of slm or cnc alu parts

[solid belfry]

with madmax the toolhead mounting is really weird

[naive coral]

not really and differnt then stealthchanger no?

[solid belfry]

the toolhead mounts on the side which makes it harder to fit a lot of toolheads but I bet it can be fixed

I am pretty sure madmax could be made slimmer than stealthchanger

for the actual maxwell coupling

[naive coral]

yea but i feel like thats required because its mainly designed for tridents. if you where to use a v2 you could use the up and down motion to dock the tool with mount beeing on the front

That V2 also uses a maxwell toolchanging design and tools are mounted on the front because V2 gantry can move up and down

[solid belfry]

ohh I like that solution

[naive coral]

thats the coupling design -> #1434612830614585476 message

the designer didnt publish the files online sadly (even though they said they would years ago lol)

[solid belfry]

I would like to see it in action

[solid belfry]

You can always dm zruncho

[naive coral]

that one isn not from zruncho-> #1434612830614585476 message

Just some 'random' user on the Voron Toolchanger Discord :D

[solid belfry]

Issue with a maxwell coupling is that it isn't really designed for this application and the rigidity fully centers on your center locking mechanism

or the force of your magnets

[naive coral]

yep but for toolchangers i really havent seen anything else. Its either maxwell coupling or the stealtchanger approach (or ig tapchanger lol)

[solid belfry]

The issue with toolchangers is that there always has to be one non fully constrained axis

with madmax it is y

with stealthchanger it is z

ideally you want it to be z but stealthchanger doesn't use a kinematic coupling so you are relying on bushing and pin tolerance

there is no easy way to mount a maxwell coupling on z which sucks

[naive coral]

with maxwell couplings y is kinda the only option to be none fully constrained

z non fully constrained with maxwell coupling would be ideal but no idea if that would even be possible

[solid belfry]

It could be but the toolhead would be massive

[naive coral]

well yea 😆

[solid belfry]

I think this time calls for a combing through stratasys patents

[naive coral]

haha 😆

[solid belfry]

they have like 400 toolchanger patents and millions in funding so they always have good stuff

[naive coral]

there are more exciting things then reading patents but yea the answer is likely somewhere in there 😅

[naive coral]

The snapmaker u1 uses an interesting system. No magnets and no electronics only a strong spring. https://ditfjx9w4x3vl.cloudfront.net/assets/snapmaker-u1/Rock-Solid & Precise Locks.webm

might be worth a shot to adopt it for your toolhead?

[solid belfry]

Snapmaker's system is bulky, reliant on springs and has wearing plates that aren't held very well. We have seen the same setup in the prusa xl and lineux setups

similar to the old e3d toolchangers which were bulky but pretty solid

[naive coral]

ahh ok 😅

the spring would be pretty buly indeed yea

[sour crest]

it's.. not

it wears out fast and is even more tolerance dependent than bushings and pins

[solid belfry]

yeah unless you have a screw driven system like the old e3d setups it will always have those same issues

[sour crest]

if we can sacrifice TAP, just attaching GIANT magnets to the shuttle and the backplates are a good option to increase rigidity in our case, or a servo to keep the tool in place with a mechanism

[solid belfry]

a maxwell coupling is made to constrain a heavy expanding object in z

works great for beds

[sour crest]

The stealthchanger method is honestly not bad.

[solid belfry]

the giant magnets have been done many times before

[sour crest]

It suffers from pin tolerance, but making our own bushings means we only have to care about each pin.

then you just buy a shit ton in bulk and figure out which is best.

but seriously- toolchanging will ALWAYS sacrifice rigidity

unless we're doing some form of pneumatic toolholding like CNC machines do, we will never get the same rigidity a non toolchanging printer will have

The other option is of course... hotend swappers

there's a difference between switching whole tools and just switching hotends only, and the latter is infinitely more rigid

[naive coral]

have you actually printed yet with your stealtchanger v2?

[sour crest]

1 tool, yes. I told you i did a while ago then killed all my tools and wiring! And fried a kraken!

i printed a whole pikachu and it looked basically perfect, with manual material changing

like that was why I quit on the printer for 9 months lol

[naive coral]

that is true but if the pin tolerance is to tight then tool swapping becomes super hard and no longer smooth - like it is the case right now on my v2

[solid belfry]

The hotend swapper is covered by a jungle of patents. Basically impossible to release anything even with no license

[sour crest]

if the dock is rigid (with crossbar for example) then strength doesn't matter as long as the gantry is stronger than the tool holding force

[solid belfry]

Are you sure it is the pin tolerance or is it the pins being misaligned?

If it is the pin tolerance a lot of those issues can be removed by adding larger magnets

[sour crest]

https://github.com/srinn/quindec-toolchanger

[sour crest]

this is what i mean

[solid belfry]

I don't think this will last very long. Give it a year and it will be forcefully removed

[sour crest]

the real fix for stealthchanger is extreme magnet CNC shuttles + backplates, removing stealthTAP entirely and replacing with eddy sensors, and relying on reamed bushings + as good pins as you can get

i sincerely doubt it. MedusaHC is a thing too

https://github.com/Irbis3D/MedusaHC

[solid belfry]

that is what I am trying to do but there will always be bushing tolerance even if it is less than a maxwell setup

[sour crest]

the other method is a pneumatic toolchanger which would be incredibly hard to justify on a 3d printer

[sour crest]

there will be bushing tolerance, not enough to matter

if the magnets are strong enough to hold the toolhead to the gantry under full accel

like rn the magnets are strongest in Z

we need vertical magnets so that they pull in Y.

That would eliminate basically all tolerance issues

[solid belfry]

This is adding a redundant constraint

[sour crest]

First thing you learn in mechanical engineering is tolerance compensation

[solid belfry]

just add double magnets on the bottom

[sour crest]

nowhere near as strong

the point isn't to hold in Z. We don't need Z to be that strong

the pin tolerances actively allow you to wiggle the tool forwards and back

that's whats causing the print quality issues

[solid belfry]

it isn't forwards and back

it is left to right

[sour crest]

Jakob sent a video

a while back

[solid belfry]

if you have even subpar tolerances on the bottom spacers/magnets there shouldn't be issues in y

[sour crest]

it's technically both, but left and right is far more constrained due to the angle and larger dimensions.

[naive coral]

mhm what if we do a maxwell couling but with z beeing none rigid .. i think ive got an idea 🤔

[solid belfry]

#1434612830614585476 message

[sour crest]

in that video it's clearly forwards and back that's the issue, also the whole shuttle is wiggling lol

@naive coral would you try the new bushings & a SLS backplate just for funsies?

[solid belfry]

that is all toolhead and shuttle flex

[naive coral]

yep

[sour crest]

Are you saying there's no flex in the Y direction in that video?

that's because it's too tight 😂

i can't draw a diagram rn but think about how much contact area / angle there is for left/right rotation vs forwards & back rotation.

[solid belfry]

If you have larger magnets in z it allows for a tighter bushing tolerance because with 8kg of magnets it will allow for the bushings to fully engage without it having to be a slip fit

[sour crest]

left/right has a triangle shape pushing against all 3 bushings. Front/back has much less than that

[sour crest]

stronger magnets in Z means more friction means more holding force, but that's less efficient than a magnet in Y

[solid belfry]

they quite literally have screws on the bottom to adjust backlash that do the exact same thing as your idea of a magnet in y but they are fully mechanically constrained by having pressure against the bottom pin instead of using a big magnet

[sour crest]

that doesn't apply pressure on the top bushing.

left to right really isn't an issue compared to forwards and back imo but ig unless we have stress sims to prove it I can't say much

for the toolhead to move left/right it'd have to rotate.

[solid belfry]

do you think a magnet would put adiquite pressure on the top bushings? It would make it very hard to toolchange with a massive magnet in the y axis

[sour crest]

i think the point would be to cinch it down as hard as possible, no matter in what direction honestly

to detach, all you need is a solid surface & push down hard against it, stronger than the magnet.

[solid belfry]

Large Z magnets and tight bushings

[sour crest]

A magnet in Y makes perfect sense because it's strongest in the Y direction, but you push away from it in the Z direction

[solid belfry]

that is all you can do

[sour crest]

large Y magnet + tight bushings just seems like a better way to me tho

[solid belfry]

If you want to try. It would be worth a shot

[sour crest]

nah i'm too lazy and not good enough of a mech-e

And you are absolutely right about magnets in Y being space limited as heck

the stealthchanger method of just 2 magnets in Z though is also lacking so

[sour crest]

it's just, strong magnets in Z is harder to toolchange than strong magnets in Y

and assuming the magnets are strong enough, both exert huge amounts of force through friction in every axis

magnets in Y -> easier to detach in Z direction
magnets in Z-> easier to detach in Y direction

like is it not viable to design a shuttle that makes full contact with a backplate, with 4 magnets on the shuttle and 4 magnets on the backplate?

heck honestly if there is a CNC shuttle base cad i might try the mod

[sour crest]

@solid belfry i think i'm actually giving it a go. SLM shuttle too, or just an adapter that fits onto the shuttle and does not interfere with existing carto mounts

[solid belfry]

You making your own shuttle and backplate?

Btw I messed around for a bit with the wwg2 and i could not find a way to fix the center of mass

[sour crest]

i might.

it seems honestly worth it. Either as an insert form or a full shuttle

if i can add 4 magnets to the Y axis alongside 2 on the Z axis then it's like perfect for my use

[solid belfry]

I have a base printed shuttle that you can modify somewhere

I know jakob has the cnc fysetc shuttle cad

[sour crest]

even 2 more magnets would probably be awesome

[wind gorge]

I feel like you guys are over thinking it.. like yes it's not totally rigid but it doesnt show up in actual prints

[tepid salmon]

But see that's the fun part

[wind gorge]

lol I guess :3

[naive coral]

Well yes but where is the fun in that 🤣

[thorny spruce]

they're decent, but solid n52 is better.

rail carriage?

[thorny spruce]

problem doing a full kinematic coupling when you want z decoupled is size.

[sour crest]

are those chamfered magnets?

[rugged juniper]

Misumi frame arrives tomorrow, I suppose I should start my own build thread...

[solid belfry]

Yeah

[solid belfry]

Yes

[sour crest]

i thought those are weaker

[thorny spruce]

they are, bit he's using larger magnets and two of them.

[sour crest]

ah ok

@solid belfry i'm about to get really good tolerance pins (making them myself) and the better stainless steel bushings are coming today as well

i'll let you know how those turn out tolerance wise, we may not end up needing crazy magnet additions if they work

[thorny spruce]

the crazy magnet additions arent for xy but z.

[solid belfry]

It is pretty hard to make good tolerance bushings yourself

You need a precision id grinder and hardened 440c

[sour crest]

depends on what you want from good tolerance

I'm talking about the pins though. Decent tolerance pins are easy to make

bushings, you can ream for a "decent" fit

H7 is +- 0.015mm for reaming.

[solid belfry]

I guarantee you that any decent quality bushing that you buy off the shelf is going to be better than what you make with minimal tooling

[sour crest]

that's really good tolerance compared to no name

[solid belfry]

We also have to worry about thermal expansion with brass

With 440c it is pretty similar to the 420 stainless pins

[solid belfry]

Out of brass. Not out of hardened bearing steel

You could use stainless

[sour crest]

we don't need bearing steel.

I'm using stainless lol

[solid belfry]

Make sure you get good spiral flute carbide reamers then

[sour crest]

true

[naive coral]

measured the pin diameter on the backplate, should be 39mm but is 38.89. That surly doenst help the whole tolerance funnines 😆

[sour crest]

i'd say 0.01mm is honestly not THAT big of a deal

OH

i read it wrong. 0.11mm is wild

[sour crest]

wait

3.9mm tbut 3.889mm?

oh, but the bushing itself is 4mm so ig that's 0.111mm still

[naive coral]

idk il just leave it be

and wait for hanks monster :)

not like i really need the machine anyways

[sour crest]

ya fair enough

i'm leaning towards the normal stealthchanger shuttle but w a few mods from me

designing the adapter will be hard without cad 😭

[naive coral]

but youve got the cad for the shuttle lol

[sour crest]

what cad?

[naive coral]

the cnc shuttle cad 🤔

[sour crest]

you mean i can 3d scan it? yeah 😄

[sour crest]

do I?

[rugged juniper]

[ripe bramble]

https://github.com/azido-azide-azide/Monolith-Toolchanger/tree/main

now you have it for sure

[sour crest]

wow thanks

[naive coral]

Seeing all the indx machines on smrrf streams and pictures really makes me want to just wait for indx 😅

[solid belfry]

lol

[sour crest]

interesting

@naive coral i'm manually calibrating the tools with the sexball (no z probe working rn) and it's actually consistent with the standard mount but not your mount

remember mine is modded with the shim and 3mm magnet

it works really well tho

[naive coral]

Huh wut

[sour crest]

like i don't have Z

so i just wanted to test XY by using set_kinematic_position and basically just getting the X and Y offsets of each tool

with your sexball relocation mount, the XY doesn't work for some reason. Consistently inconsistent 😂

but with the standard sideways mount it works

i'm wondering if my part accuracy is bad / the screws are the wrong size or smth

[naive coral]

Yea well you cant compare apples and oranges my dude :)

[sour crest]

i thought the issue was with XY calibration for you too?

[naive coral]

No the issue i am solving with that alternative mount is inconsistent z offset readings

[sour crest]

OHH ok

😂

so I found a different problem now 😭

i'll see if Z stays consistent with my mods 😭

[sour crest]

Jakob, how are your XY offsets?

i'm getting around 0.1mm to 0.05mm per tool which is crazy accurate.

i think the only sources of error really in my parts are the threaded inserts that i inserted badly 😂

[naive coral]

Sorry for the delayed answer lol .. this is for T1gcode_x_offset = 0.381 gcode_y_offset = -0.531 gcode_z_offset = 0.037

[sour crest]

Thanks. I don't trust my offsets ngl so i'm gonna try again with your sexball mount

off to another state rn but we'll see when i get back

[naive coral]

yea but mine is only going to solve gcode z offset / probe z offset

if your xy offsets arent great then maybe your carriage/backplate have tolerance issues

[naive coral]

So i swapped the pins to better fitting ones, that didnt improve layer stacking at all. I then switched to a cnc sherpa mini that i have laying around and damn what a difference! There are still some vfas and pa weirdness but layer stacking is basically perfect!

Now im not sure if i wanna stay with a printed bmg extruder and order bondtech ridga gears or order cnc sherpa mini v3s or maybe order G2 extruder kits 🤔

[thorny spruce]

told you it was the extruder 😂

all metal integrated bmg is really nice. i only tried the mellow one, bondtech also has their own now.

i don't see the point of cnc sherpa tbh. it's just expensive and transfers more heat into the gears causing issues.

[naive coral]

yeaaa you are right enough often enough that i should really start believing you lmao
I'm trying to figure out what will give me the best quality for the lowest price seeing as i need to buy the extruder 5 times

The lgx light pro would be cool but its simply to expensive. Cheapest option would be bondtech ridga gears in a wwmbg with smooth idler

[thorny spruce]

mellow all metal integrated bmg is really good, and like 20$.

idk if the smooth idler really makes that much diff.

[naive coral]

dont know how much i trust mellow quality 😆

[sour crest]

so it's papileo?

[sour crest]

Dude. WWG2 has been THE BEST extruder of all time for me

single gear drive >>> double gear imo

G2SA is probably good, and you probably want to experiment with Aureus G2 as well right

so def order some G2 kits 🙂

[naive coral]

yepp

[naive coral]

yea well maybe possibly kinda maybe

[naive coral]

yea and it would be super cheap as well. ~25€ for the gear and the rest is already here (motor, bearings,...)

[sour crest]

i wonder if it just needs more tuning or smth.

And that does explain our differences ngl

[sour crest]

indeed

Go for the G2E 😄

[naive coral]

maybe but idk what i can tune, papileo is like it is

[thorny spruce]

i have three of them, they were all good.
bondtech qc prob better, maybe. idk. i'll get some of those soon too just because bondtech is nice 🙂

[sour crest]

interesting. I'm really curious

others have good results with pap, and in theory it should be even better than G2 so

maybe binding / belt tension issues/ etc?

but either way, G2 all the way 😂

[naive coral]

yea maybe idk but im done with playing around with papileo :)

[sour crest]

no worries, just sad that the one extruder supposed to eliminate extruder vfas are destroying layer stacking

[naive coral]

yea kek

but going with ye old faithfull is likely going to be the best option .. just need to decide if its going to be wwbmg or wwg2

especially cause Aureus repack would be like a rather cheap slm part

[sour crest]

wwg2

100%

[naive coral]

guess its been decided 🤣

gonna need to find a usecase for all the pancake stepper motors i now have laying around lol

[sour crest]

robot arm!

[naive coral]

Like this one?

[sour crest]

Cool

build 3 more mini ones

But I'm happy you're joining the WWG2 gang. I like the dualFS one

[solid belfry]

I am a big fan of wwg2. It is a tough one between lgx lite pro and wwg2

I love my full size lgx pro but it is too heavy to be useful on a small printer like the ones we use here

[solid belfry]

Wwg2 is still a good bit better than even the best of the bmg extruders in terms of layer stacking and retraction speed

[naive coral]

Yea and your slm repack makes it an even better investment

[solid belfry]

I am working with dr oof on the slm order because his quality tends to be nicer than in3d tech and it is cheaper if you have a larger order. ( I have a 30+ part order so it saves a bit of money)

[solid belfry]

Is the wwg2 for tridentbert or the chubechanger?

I have 6 chubes on order right now and it is taking a while for luke to get to the orders

It would have been really nice to have them a week or two ago when I had a last minute contract

I am working on turning my whole farm into a bunch of flying gantry tridentberts lol

I need the temps for nylon

[naive coral]

The g2s are for chubechanger!

Gonna use a printed housing for now but your toolhead + g2 repack would bd like really the goal

[naive coral]

That sounds like a lot of expensive fun 🤣

[naive coral]

Damn .. yea il order all the slm stuff at once as well cause shipping from china via air is sadly super expensive

[naive coral]

Looks like G2s it is 😆

[solid belfry]

I took the g2 off my printer and temporarily swapped it to a sherpa

I got an iphone but I really struggle to get it to focus

that was after 2 minutes of just struggling and it not working

[sour crest]

excited to see aureus

[naive coral]

Printed G2 is quick the jonker yea lol

[naive coral]

@sour crest and @solid belfry i order steel bearing bushings a while ago (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007971520999.html?) and basically all of them are a very tight fit on the metal pins!

The pins will definatly need to be greased to operate smoothly but i think they are the winner!

[sour crest]

I'm working on machining my own bushings, have the 3x6x6 ones ready and just designing a simple 3d printed press fit fixture to drill

H7 should be good enough

Will check these out though, thanks

[naive coral]

yea im sure they aint perfect but a LOT better then the garbage fystec included

and im thinking that we should really use 4x6x10 bushings and m3x16 pins seeing as it would provide a bit more stability especially cause there is space for it on the carriage

[sour crest]

pretty fire idea.. i was considering it too but i think that'd just amplify tolerance issues with docking.

like if you have just a slight angle in one of the pins, or it's off by 0.01mm, then it'd be basically impossible to dock.

[naive coral]

definitely yea

[sour crest]

for (again) SLS or SLM I doubt that will be an issue

But FDM will ALWAYS lead to some amount of tiny warping in the part, even when annealed

and dimensional accuracy with annealing is really hard to get right t oo

[naive coral]

yep

[sour crest]

if you printed the backplate with 100% infill then annealed it, it might work for tolerances honestly

[naive coral]

me neither .. but i dont wanna order 100€ worth of sls backplates when im swapping to hanks design in the future anyway ^^

[sour crest]

but either way, you still have overhangs where the pins go, etc so perfect tolerances that way is really really hard.. your pins will always have like 0.1 degree error or something which leads to binding

[naive coral]

so for now its gonna stay fdm

[sour crest]

yeah just saying it probably isn't necessary

to go with thicker bushings & pins, 14mm should be thick enough

[naive coral]

Why does nothing ever fit together in this community 😆

As far as i can see there is no toolheadboard mount that supports the stealtchanger backplate and the spring steel coil

This one https://github.com/DraftShift/StealthChanger/tree/main/UserMods/MugenMicko/Anthead WWG2 EBB36 PCB Mount looks like it would maybe work but it requires a different backplate and im not sure i want to reprint backplates

[sour crest]

for which toolhead?

***toolboard, fysetc h36>

?

in #1305231072992301208 there's one for ebb36, i''m sure it can be modded to fit.

[naive coral]

so this might work .. but looks like it would also require modification to actually work

[naive coral]

yea .. but its basically the same as the ebb36

[solid belfry]

yeah that is probably a good idea. Although I think that the tighter bushing clearance will already be enough

[naive coral]

or maybe il just use the standard G2 with a generic toolhead board

would be a lot easier then adopting another toolhead for my needs .. and i would already have a bunch of parts printed for a anthead with sherpa mini mount

especially since this toolhead isnt my endgoal either way so maybe this cheap and fast approach is fine for now

[naive coral]

thinking it over ... im gonna use a standalone g2 extruder with sherpa mini hole spacing and then wait for Hanks slm toolhead

[naive coral]

So im printing all the parts for a stock Anthead with Tooks ebb mount

With a bit of luck the G2 parts will arrive tomorrow as well!

[sour crest]

uhhhh

don't

Use my mod

of took's mod

there's some stuff I went over with tooks, incl these holes here for the shcs screws having narrow diameter

so it won't fit standard SHCS

the ebb36 heatset inserts here being on the opposite side of the board, so you can't screw stuff in with standoffs

mostly those only

[sour crest]

like that you're going with dualFS!

[naive coral]

it still works with anteahd? 😆

well i guess it should not matter

[sour crest]

not much has changed with it lol

here's my mod

the step i linked is the correct one

if you use 5mm standoffs, it's also compatible with this fan cover i made

• def modded from someone else, but it's been so long I forgot.

[naive coral]

oh awesome!

[sour crest]

if you want

[naive coral]

Pc pbt gf really is a pain to print .. no idea what happend here

Z offset seams to have been off on some parts and maybe a partial clog for a couple of layers .. maybe the mellow lll plus messed up again 🤔

[sour crest]

it's PC. PC is a nightmare

Also I think the LLL kinda messes with the whole point of WWG2

single drive = better at not fucking up the filament shape

= reduced VFAs at least I've heard

idk how bad the tension is on the LLL but if it's loading filament i'd imagine it takes a lot of force thus requiring tension

[naive coral]

the lll only acts as a buffer and doesnt impact print quality assuming it can actually feed filament properly

but im reprinting it part by part right now

[sour crest]

why have a remote filament loading thing at all?

you have a toolchanger, just have 6 filament spools and then run your print with whichever has the right filament in it.

[naive coral]

helps the main extruder pull filament of the spool - especially when the bowden is rather long

[sour crest]

I don't think WWG2 will need it 😂

planetary reduction goes crazy

[naive coral]

yea this one idk maybe

printing the parts on #1317580899184807976 right now

[sour crest]

gotcha

btw... PC might not be a good idea for dualFS especially

[naive coral]

but i should ideally move the spool in the chamber on tridentbert

[sour crest]

the tolerances are super important for dualFS and PC tends to not be dimensionally accurate (warps)

ik it's PC-PBT but still

And GF should help with warping too but still

actually maybe that helps a lot

who knows 😂

[naive coral]

na its fine pc pbt-gf doesnt warp for me ^^

[sour crest]

which wwg2 dualfs are you using?

thor's mod or printables even further relaxed one

[naive coral]

on tridentbert? im using a wwbmg on there right now

[sour crest]

for SLS PA12 Thor's tight tolerance one works, but for FDM the printables one is better

no no the one ur tyring to print rn

[naive coral]

ah right now its wwg2 that i downloaded from the Anthead repo

[sour crest]

https://www.printables.com/model/1340329-wwg2-duel-filament-sensor-by-thor
this is the too-tight one

[naive coral]

thats the one -> https://github.com/PrintersForAnts/AntHead/tree/main/STLs/Extruders/G2

[sour crest]

Yeah...

https://www.printables.com/model/1186399-optimized-wristwatch-g2-dual-filament-sensor/comments

You'll be better off with this one

[naive coral]

i wont be using the Filament Sensor either way ^^

[sour crest]

All FDM prints warp slightly and the OG one in anthead repo is really bad for tight tolerances

[sour crest]

lol fair

i got mine tuned in very well on all of them and it's been extremely reliable and nice

no need for stpuid SFS 2.0s or anything 😂

[naive coral]

this is just a stop gap measure until i get my compacts and Hank has a version of his toolhead that i can test

[sour crest]

still excited for aureus, sad that no dualfs or single fs version

think i;m most excited for that actually.

[naive coral]

yea likely going to run aureus and his toolchanger toolhead on here

[sour crest]

i think i might just end up with rapidburner aureuses

i really really like the rapidburner just cos of looks, and i'm attached to it bec i did a lot of mods to it myself

incl magdock, etc

(also new sls components for docks would be stupid expensive)

[naive coral]

yea i feel ya but im kinda done with fdm printed toolheads, they are all flobby as hell 😆

[sour crest]

true 😂

Which is why i went with SLS 😉 😉

titanium extruder mount on rapidburner is kinda wild though.

I could try that

for Aureus specifically

since it supports LGX, I just have to print that and the adapter

[sour crest]

anyways

technically all I need to make mine not flobby is just a metal extruder mount (that also mounts the hotend)

urgh in3dtec is being really slow with my titanium adapter

[naive coral]

Looks like the G2 parts wont arrive today

Hopefully tomorrow .. but parts are printed and they are looking 🔥

[sour crest]

send picssss

😄

[sour crest]

wow that looks great

i like the cover :d

[naive coral]

yea gf filament is like cheating 😆

[sour crest]

always scared of handling those w/o gloves tho

[naive coral]

i just wash my hands if ive been handling them for more then a minute

[sour crest]

idk ever since i've started messing with fiberglass insulation for the shields & some cf parts, i've been having eczema breakouts

on my hands

and it's def bec of the fibers getting stuck even if i'm washing really well afterwards

[naive coral]

well fiberglass insulation is a differnt matter, that shit hurts if you dont wear propper protective gloves

[sour crest]

they're the same pretty much, the GF / CF parts are in theory as bad lol

[naive coral]

but you cant really compare fiberglass fibers and cf fibers 😄

[naive coral]

yea just many many times bigger

[sour crest]

GF is technically worse than CF yeah

[naive coral]

G2s both showed up today!

The first of two Antheads is already build and its cool looking!

[naive coral]

Both are done!

Gonna start a print now and lets see what print quality is like

[wind gorge]

let me know how this one is compared to pap lite !

[naive coral]

Interestingly the surface quality in x is a LOT better then in y where there are some serious vfas visible

but other then the still horrible vfas layer stacking is now

i do wonder why thouse vfas(?) are so much worse in y and basically not existing in x .. maybe the umbilical? or the bad com? or something else entirly?

[wind gorge]

hmmmm that is interesting

is the first picture x?

first picture looks more like motor vfa which, depending on severity could cover up the gentler vfa on the second pic.. im not an expert tho

[naive coral]

yea the motor vfas are a bit expected (and something i know how to deal with)

could also be ghosting for all i know

[naive coral]

I assume the nozzle moving when i pull on the umbilical doesnt improve the situation

[wind gorge]

but the umbilical shouldn't get pulled really while printing so I dont think that is an issue

my non toolchangers would wiggle too if you did that

[naive coral]

yea it might be fine, ngl i havent had a full scale voron with a fdm printed toolhead in a while 😆

[sour crest]

looks awesome!!

[naive coral]

So i ran IS and this has to be the cleanest graphs i have seen in a very long while!

[naive coral]

Printer another cube and the artifact on y is a lot better, maybe this is just extreme ghosting 🤔

[sour crest]

god damn

unicorn asf

[naive coral]

yep!

but i have no idea if the graphs are really any good .. im no graphs expert 😆

[sour crest]

the peak being wide is a little weird but no that's a unicorn

[naive coral]

Reprinting all my gridfinity bins i think to have printed labels

And have a differnt color for each type for screw

[sour crest]

dude the alignment there looks really good

but also why recess it?

just make it a separate layer on top.

tactile = better

unless that is a layer on top and i'm blind

[naive coral]

its one single separate lyer on top

just not visible on the picture

[sour crest]

Oooh makes sense

why is the 8 weird lol

just too small of a print?

Also your anthead G2s look awesome!

[naive coral]

yea i assume so

arachne doing arachne things lol

[sour crest]

Was took's toolhead board (with mods) good?

[naive coral]

yep!

[sour crest]

Awesome

It fits the fysetc profile??

[naive coral]

i reallyyyyyyy want to build another two toolheads lol

but i feel like buying 2 more tzv6s is a waste when my chubes will arrive sometimes between now and in the future

[naive coral]

yea it fit just fine

[sour crest]

Dude. Just join me and the goliath gang, Hank will do goliaths soon too.

[naive coral]

na never

chubes all day every day

[sour crest]

Honestly chube compacts are a "scam" as in they won't be that much of a miracle better hotend for the size

https://youtu.be/r1T_A5sQ0fo

I'm excited for these

[naive coral]

ah vez did a little copy and paste

[sour crest]

god chubes look nice tho

[naive coral]

im not a fan of the goliath

so chube compacts it is, not like im in a giant hurry lol

[sour crest]

why not? I can put down 60mm3/s all day every day

mostly weight?

[naive coral]

its just way to big for what it is

and id rather support luke then mellow

[sour crest]

I do have a spare goliath rn

but anyways

when I move over to Hank toolhead

i might ship you my fully assembled rapidburner toolhead just for you to see how good it ended up being 😂

Honestly tho, should just diy our hotends with PCBWay

[naive coral]

and price wise it doenst matter .. goliath is ~120€ vs chube compact with was ~145€

[naive coral]

ey im gonna swap to hanks toolhead as well

cant wait to get rid of fdm printed toolheads

[sour crest]

I just want aureus so bad

When Hank is done i'll get Aureus but do either SLS for weight, or SLM but with filament sensor insert

[naive coral]

Well its designed for slm so print it with slm ^^

[solid belfry]

Filament sensors are lame

After talking to the guys over at armored turtle, I am convinced they are completely useless problem causers

[solid belfry]

Aureus is on the way. The order is being made

My toolhead will be interesting. I am interested in seeing what issues pop up. V2 will hopefully be better

I might just run it in a normal printer while I am working on getting the electronics set up on the toolchanger

[solid belfry]

This is just a chc xl clone

And the chc is an incredibly simple hotend that could be so much better if they could have spared some pennies in a couple spots

I do think the goliath lite will be slightly better in terms of rigidity though

Emphasis on slightly

Still a jelly donut

I do really prefer chubes for everything but don’t we all. They are expensive

[tepid salmon]

Sfsv2 would like a word

[sour crest]

I HATE the SFS V2

the encoder sensor NEVER works

you jiggle the wire just a little bit and the thing fries, no LEDs, only the microswitch works

and even if it works, it trips constantly and doesn't change whether you're extruding or not even with endless tuning

most importantly glossy filament vs not glossy filament = diff settings

at least in my experience with 5 different SFS V2.0s I've given a shot to

[naive coral]

Printed a bigger statue for a family member over night and other then one big bulgy line its looking pretty good!

[tepid salmon]

Damn, I haven't had a problem yet with mine 😭

[naive coral]

yet

but the one im using works fine as well

[sour crest]

i think they just come with really shitty QC

[midnight ginkgo]

I really like this model do you have a link for it?

[naive coral]

https://www.printables.com/model/815522-buddha-decoration-figure

[acoustic lake]

Open it up, the encoder wheel is most probably not secured to the shaft and wiggles around. I added a paper spacer on the flat part of the shaft and removed the issue

[sour crest]

interesting, no grub screw or smth?

however wiring 6 SFSes would require 12 endstop ports which boards don't have, I have 6 available at most

i think just toolhead sensors is honestly fine. Maybe 6 SFS just for the encoder but

they're also heavily affected by filament type & filament length from toolhead so

idk just don't see the appeal

the only thing they help with is if the filament manufacturer puts a really shitty 90 degree bend on the toolhead, which isn't a big deal if you have a strong extruder

[sour crest]

mine always claims tripped tho during extrusion, not a single bit of vibration, and the LEDs are off even when powered

granted i have 2 other sthat still work "semi"

[sour crest]

anyway sorry toh ijack ur thread @naive coral lol, and thanks @acoustic lake ill give that a go on some of my more working ones

[naive coral]

all good im used to it

[sour crest]

😂

I'm still waiting on 1 more package (JST VH clone male female extension connectors) before I can start working on froron again

also did a full room re-furnishing to help my gf move in to our 2 bedroom (other 1 is taken up by my sis lol)

So printer is looking a bit delayed for now

[acoustic lake]

Many feels were felt that day

[sour crest]

its funny

there's a small circle of taken over threads and it's just Wheels, Me, You, and a few others

[naive coral]

and i feel like im always the victim when a takeover happens 😆

But its fine lol its not like im good at making content for my threads 😆

[solid belfry]

Yes

[thorny spruce]

reminds me of the 2804 VFAs i had 🤔

[naive coral]

This has to be the most complex part that i printed just yet, gonna see if the toolchanging mechanism works reliably!

[naive coral]

yea 2504s are a tiny bit vfa prone when printing slow 😆

[thorny spruce]

ldo 2504? becauwe i have those but no VFA printing both fast abd slow

[naive coral]

The print finished successfully and i think it was well worth it lol

[naive coral]

Yea maybe i have a wrong config somewhere

[thorny spruce]

yeah, or possibly a bad motor/driver match or something weird like that.
what settings do you run?

[naive coral]

Going to bed now but il postem tomorrow 😅

[sour crest]

that's great 😄

seems very reliable toolchanger

[naive coral]

Very much so! Its not super fast, that model took about 12h to print but still!

[shadow kiln]

Vez didnt do those lol. that was Mellow entirely didnt even talk to him

[naive coral]

if you wanna check, maybe im doing something wrong :D

[thorny spruce]

maybe something that performance autotune is setting? tried disabling autotune?

[naive coral]

Monolith cnc kit has been ordered!

[sour crest]

fire

any clue where i can get in US?

[naive coral]

kb3d, fabreeko and a bunch of others in the future

[sour crest]

cool, assuming west3d too

Anyway i haven't been able to get much work done on froron lately

life & room stuff & general laziness lol

[naive coral]

ofc! https://west3d.com/products/monolith-cnc-gantry-by-ldo-systems-v2-4-and-trident-compatible-with-2wd-and-awd?_pos=2&_psq=monolith&_ss=e&_v=1.0

[naive coral]

I wonder how easy it would be to add a liftbar for toolheads to this machine

~20 second toolchanges are still rather slow compared to other machines 😄

[thorny spruce]

probably not si bad.

why is it so slow tho?

[naive coral]

I have to limit z speed for noise reasons

[thorny spruce]

oh 🙁 being cautious or already had complaints?

[naive coral]

yea the loud z on my first attempt was hearable by a neighbour😄

so im beeing a bit more cautious then i normally am

i do have tmc2240s here but i havent installed them just yet .. they should be even more quiet then the 2209s (witch are already miles quieter then 5160s)

[thorny spruce]

hehe. i have 5160s 48v, ran z as fast as i could. used to live in loud apt building.
but somehow got zero complaints 😂

[naive coral]

i think it was mostly the fast deceleration (and the resulting bang) that was hearable

but better save then sorry .. i do like my neighbours and dont wanna upset them lol

[thorny spruce]

did you check out daksh bolt? it's a yz gantry for docks, even better than a simple z liftbar.

[naive coral]

yea but at that point i might as well wait for indx

monolith cnc has an option to front mount an alu extrusion that i could use to mount indx toolheads

so really no idea what im gonna do .. either just acept that toolchanges will be slow and try (and possibly fail to build a liftbar or just cancel my chube orders and wait for indx

[thorny spruce]

could do that with sc tools too. once the trident docks come out.

[naive coral]

waiting would not be that bad seeing as i already have 2 toolheads (and thats like almost more then enough already lol) ..

[thorny spruce]

and give up on the chubechanger?

[naive coral]

would be a sad day indeed

but for the liftbar .. it should not be that hard

[thorny spruce]

liftbar should be doable 🙂

[naive coral]

somethign like this .. an alu frame (where the toolheads are placed, a linear rail left and right side and two leadscrew motors with holes directily into the alu extrusion for the lead screw to drive it up and down

doesnt seam like it should be insanly complicated

[thorny spruce]

just use viesturz design? are you in voron toolchangers discord?

[naive coral]

yea i am

[thorny spruce]

just a couple liftbars on dsd server.. did you see the staggered docks liftbar build?
fits like 9 normal toolheads on a 350

[naive coral]

yo mean with two rows of tools?

[thorny spruce]

yup

spaghetti management nightmare 😂

[naive coral]

yea .. has to be a nightmare to cable manage 😆

[solid belfry]

You should try out 36v z. Those new excit3d motors would be sweet for a z axis. I am doing a 12mm nema 23 z drive with a 3-1 ratio

I just need to mill the gearbox

I have a few simple things to mill out of the 1 inch scrap from my side panels

[naive coral]

Sooo i talked it through with my partner .. and im going to go with indx as soon as its available. Already submitted a ticket to cancel my preorder for 4 chube compacts 😄

I really dont want this machine to be another never ending money sink (like #1317580899184807976 is)

[solid belfry]

Well rip

Smart though

[naive coral]

https://klipy.com/gifs/sorry-dog-6

[solid belfry]

I hope they do a high temp indx

With non cht nozzles

[naive coral]

i really wanted to stay full diy but having something that just works and isnt a never ending money sink .. just seams nice 😄

[solid belfry]

Yeah and a time sink

[naive coral]

that as well yea

guess now i need a new name for this machine

[solid belfry]

The more I work on the toolchanger stuff

[solid belfry]

Just keep it to confuse people lol

[naive coral]

i mean the time sink is something that i like about diy printers .. but it has to end at some point and turn into a reliable printer

[solid belfry]

I have been realizing how useless a high flow 80c toolchanger is

[naive coral]

doesnt mean that this machine is reliable (cause it reall yis) but still

[solid belfry]

Idex with bellows is the smart way to go

[naive coral]

yea high temp will do fine with a v6 😆

[solid belfry]

The toolchanger is fun to design but it is mostly useless

The more stuff you do the more you learn

[naive coral]

yea most of the stuff i print on it is either trinkest for my partner or gridfinity bins with multi color labes 😆

[solid belfry]

Yeah honestly most I will probably use it for is tpu buttons and breakaway supports

[naive coral]

that would indeed be funny lol .. but i wanna give someone else the chance to take the best name for a toolchanger in the future

[solid belfry]

I will steal it lol. (I am kidding)

[naive coral]

yea .. i havent tried that yet but pla prints with petg supports seams like an interesting territory

[solid belfry]

@wispy hill says he wants to make a chube toolchanger lol

[naive coral]

well well well .. il give him the name lol

[wispy hill]

No i dont

If i wanted to i would

[solid belfry]

Damn well nobody wants to lol

[solid belfry]

Get a full size chube instead of the weak mini chube

[naive coral]

Tooligan - A 300mm V2 toolchanger

Tooligan sounds like a fun name for the machine 😆

[solid belfry]

That makes me sad

[naive coral]

same

but im sure this one wil have a bright future ahead of itself

[solid belfry]

Instead of chubechanger make it noobchanger

Lol

[naive coral]

ezchanger 😆

[solid belfry]

Lay-z changer

Speaking of lay-z look at my gates sign I got today

[naive coral]

oh damn, where did you get that one from?

[solid belfry]

Antique store lol

It looks pretty old

Probably older than me

[naive coral]

looks pretty vintage yea

[solid belfry]

It is pretty cool

[naive coral]

but i do still have one chube compact on order that im gonna use in my v0 .. and gonna use your g2 repack in my v0 as well

my v0 really deserves a lot more love then its currently getting 😆

[solid belfry]

Mine too lol

Both of mine are basically completely stock

[naive coral]

i do have some mods (like tulip and dragonburner) but the machine looks like shits and prints like it too

[solid belfry]

I want to do pandora gantry

And run bowden

With chube compact

[naive coral]

sounds like fun!

[naive coral]

But seeing as im gonna plan on indx i can buy longer z rails and longer z belts and have a higher z printer lol

500mm z machine does sounds kinda nice (if a bit pointless) ngl 😆
and omg i have so much hardware that i now dont need

[naive coral]

Well the order has been canceld .. i need to check maybe i can sell all the stuff that i now have and dont need

[naive coral]

Lazychanger - A 300mm V2 toolchanger

[thorny spruce]

from one scope creep to the next eh?

[thorny spruce]

just build a bunch of printers with it 😂

[naive coral]

its more a scope change then scope creep 😆

i want new z rails anyways, might as well buy slightly longer once

[shadow kiln]

https://tenor.com/view/british-cop-screaming-screaming-sad-gif-10576833416044093400

[naive coral]

https://tenor.com/view/sad-sorry-im-sorry-stitch-apologetic-gif-11297488457718237801

[hexed cape]

Stuffs happening huh

[naive coral]

Scope changed and understandable everyones a bit sad lol

I will miss beeing part of the stealtchanger community .. but indx should simply work better, faster and be cheaper

Does kinda suck that i now have a giant frame that i dont really need .. among a bunch of other stuff that i now dont need either.

Maybe i can add an integrated spool holder on the top to hold the spools up there

most are ~23cm in diameter. Should be straight forwards having them uptop the printer and feeding directly into the nozzles

Or il have another idea what im gonna do with the giant frame

[hexed cape]

We'll at least get to learn from you building with indx, any possible shortcomings and so on

[naive coral]

yea i mean idk how long it will take until indx is actually available

the preorders have been solder a couple weeks ago and no idea how long until normal orders open up

[naive coral]

Seeing as front bar is only possible in a awd setup i orderd 2 more stepper motors.

I do kinda hope that indx will have a adxl on board for motor sync

Im also gonna need a new mainboard cause my manta has a dead board slot and ofc 2 more drivers

well .. order that replacement board as well .. so much about saving money 😆

[naive coral]

Im currently looking for panels to enclose the machine with. 4mm pc or 4mm (powder coated!!) aluminum are basically the same price ... 🤔

[sour crest]

@naive coral stealthchanger you will be missed

[sour crest]

damn bro

When am I gonna get Froron up and running??

like seriously- been considering it too after I won a free Bambu A1 mini and like it recovers from power loss like ???

At this point it feels like i'm paying more for less, just going DIY

Even the CMYK printing and stuff is locked and not in mainstream klipper or kalico.

[naive coral]

yea a friend has a snapmaker u1 and that thing is pure magic. .. ofc diyourself and learning stuff is part of the fun of why im doing all of this.

If i where a sensible human beeing i would just buy a h2d and call it a day but at last i am defiantly not

[thorny spruce]

there's diy as in sticking to the manual of a standard build..
and then there's diy as in "choose your own adventure" 😅

[thorny spruce]

the snapmaker orca fork? what does it have to do with the printer firmware?

[naive coral]

but you can use that stuff for your diy machien as well

its still orca slicer

just a fork of a fork

[thorny spruce]

pretty sure i saw somebody on draftshift discord using it a couple weeks ago.

[robust yew]

What's the hot stuff about 2240s? Wondering if I should get these for my Zs instead of using the leftover 5160ts I have on hand from going external drivers 👀

[naive coral]

2240s are really quiet compared to 5160s and q more quiet compared to 2209s

[robust yew]

Do you think its a good play for nontoolchanger 24v? Not really sure if I should touch my Z stuff since theres no issues right now

[naive coral]

if your happy with the sound then just leave it be .. if you want quieter motors then 2240s are an option

[shadow kiln]

I def didn't get 5160s for all axis's for the HexDex hopefully there temporary though.

[hexed cape]

There ain't much movement in Z when you don't have a toolchanger

[wispy hill]

@restive notch this chutney tastes good

[restive notch]

🙂

[wispy hill]

It looks like doodoo but tastes amazing

Is that kinda just the vibe?

Cos the curry paste smells heavenly too

[naive coral]

🤔

[wispy hill]

I dont know how to computer

How did i get here

But here

Samosas

For your troubles

I legitimately have no idea how that’s gotten here

Gn

[naive coral]

Stuff has just shown up 🎉

Excited to install them today/later this week :3

[sour crest]

holy shit that's epic

Mine is expected April 27th

Very exciting 😄

[naive coral]

Yea the parts are REALLY nice

I swapped the noname ldo bearings for raindew once - dont wanna dissasmble everything again in a couple of months when the including bearings inevitable break lol

[shadow kiln]

9mm belts hmmmm

[naive coral]

Well yea, do it right or dont do it ar all

[solid belfry]

damn

where are mine?

I ordered them ages ago

[naive coral]

yea us gets em last

but i havent ordered a trident kit yet sadly

should have kept my meltbro order then i would have the trident kit already

[solid belfry]

won't a 2.4 kit still fit on a trident?

[naive coral]

if you alter it with a dremel yea

but as it is no it wont fit

[solid belfry]

oh ok

[hexed cape]

I hope I'll catch the next batch if there'll be one

[naive coral]

there will be another one

atleast batch 2 is confirmed

[hexed cape]

Hope it won't be too soon

[robust yew]

Ughhhh mine comes in tomorrow! I should call out sick from work 🤣

[naive coral]

doesnt take that long to install 😆

not even 2 evenings if you dont get sidetracked :D

[sour crest]

that is actually fire

[naive coral]

indeed 😆

im starting a print now, lets see if it prints well

[sour crest]

did you repack your bearings btw before doing anything?

i think esp for high temp chambers repacked bearings are a must, no matter what bearings you're using

[naive coral]

no this isnt a highish temp machine so no need to repack

i did repack them for #1317580899184807976

[sour crest]

ah fair enough

[naive coral]

but this machine wont see a chamber over 60c and for that the standard grease is good enough

[naive coral]

Tried my hand with some pla prints with petg supports and holly hell does this work so well

[sour crest]

heard that works well, is really cool seeing "in person"

[sour crest]

what if you tried pla supports for pla but one toolhead prints 200C and other prints 230C?

[naive coral]

yea its insane how well that works 😄

[sour crest]

can make it more extreme like 180C vs 230C

[naive coral]

i havent but i also dont really see a need to

[sour crest]

heard that works well too and people tested it on the induction hotends

[naive coral]

ive got a toolchanger so i might as well use it to its fullest

[sour crest]

multicolor pla only print but modulate toolhead temperature to get good support?

but yeah that looks great

[naive coral]

onlything i need to fix is this elephants foot

[sour crest]

i think a toolchnager is also really good at that temperature modulation, for lower temperature on supports and higher for regular printing

[naive coral]

at 0 space between support and the pritned layer its really obvious with 0.1 mm its gone

idk whats up there 🤔

i hae to print a giant car model for a family member this weekend and it uses a whole bunch of supports everywhere cause the model wasnt designed with fdm in mind and i want to use petg as supports if possible

[sour crest]

wait looking closer

is that mostly pla support, then petg interface, then pla print?

that's cool!

[naive coral]

yep!

everything is pla except the interface layer witch is petg

[sour crest]

nice way to minimize toolchanges ic

[naive coral]

oh yea! just speeds up printing so much

only issue i have left to solve is the prime tower

prime tower beeing a mix of petg and pla is like really bad for it not falling over 😆

and it doesnt seam like orca slicer really has a good option to deal with this specific usecase

_ _
And i also need to figure out why T1 prints so much worse then T0 🤔

[shadow kiln]

It forgot to have its Cereal

[sour crest]

if you know what filament you'll always be putting in, you can just tune away the idle ooze and keep it perfectly primed

but it's a tedious process i've heard

i wonder if there's any userscripts over in draftshift

Also yeah get your cereal!

[thorny spruce]

the orca primetower doesn't do different materials that well.

cura has a lot more optipns for primetower. a good one has ot built the tower with one material and simply purge in the center with the other.

[naive coral]

yea i figured as much

[naive coral]

yeaaaaa no lol

[sour crest]

If the prusa xl can do it you can too

[naive coral]

yea maybe .. i likely need to install nozzle blockers first lol

[sour crest]

Lmao my rtv ones r pretty nice

[naive coral]

yea i just need to make some

never got to making them 😆

[sour crest]

They’re useful ig

I still haven’t done my nozzle wipers lol

[hexed cape]

I still haven't done my toolchanger... 😂

[wind gorge]

dont worry it took me a year heh

[hexed cape]

Since getting your first Voron?

[wind gorge]

yea, including building my first voron 2.4!

[hexed cape]

Well, I guess it's coming for me in September

[wind gorge]

the parts pile shamed me into doing a big push

[hexed cape]

That's an interesting question too tho, do I want a "can do it all" printer or do I go specialized

Like I'm definitely getting a 350 but do I go monolith and toolchanger with EMU as well 🤔

[wind gorge]

if you do emu... I suggest you make it 1 lane per tool so you dont have to feel the pain of loading each tool (so annoying compared to ams-like systems)

[hexed cape]

Or I could go main 5 lane and then 2 lanes per tool 🤔

[wind gorge]

KTC doesn't let you load into idle tools because the extruder command changes who E is instead of having separate E.. so I have to toolchange into the tool, then heat up and push it through 2 meters of tube etc

[hexed cape]

Either way have to wait till HH figures out multiple MMUs with toolchanger