#Voron 2.4 300mm Y Axis Issue
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hello
cube should be with input shaper on please
Oh okay
@idle vine apply the settings from the graph then into your config
Your filament is extremely wet
Dry it using a dryer which applies heat
Silicia is not drying, itβs conserving
Is this ABS in the picture?
Okay so 60-70C for at least 8h
Welcome. Before printing let it cooldown and print out of a silicia box
Petg absorbs water/moisture like crazy
what did u use to dry
hm okay. its definitely still wet.
anyways. we need a cube with dry filament please.
That stuff is wet. I would dry for at least 8 hours maybe longer
a couple things first.
I would reroute your umbilical to the come in from the top.
I woudl use a galvanic bowden tube
you have an ultra ligth x-axis on a 300 build. Ultra lights are not that great to use on builds over say 180. They have a tendency to bow
I woudl fix the umbilical first and rerun the y-input shaper
Things start to change when you go bigger bed size.
on vorons the the default is the bigger you go the slower you go.
this can be counteracted by going AWD, but removing weight is not going to do it. the heaviest thing is x-axis.
howver, ultra-light's give up stablity for lightness,but there does not seem to be a great increase in accel.
I am not saying to do all that.
for right now just fix your umbilical and retest
why not go Xol first?
AWD is a lot to do
not easy to build, not easy to configure and far from being the key to speed
oh missed that somehow because of the picture above
then go monolith gantry 2WD first
going out the exhaust cover, yes
yes thats monolith gantry.
48V will only give u top speed
and not every motor can handle 48V. u can destroy a motor
yes also but what input shaper is telling u, is not your max speed/accel π
its the max accel without ringing
whole another topic
did u thought u can not print faster then what the graphs say?
hahhaa
a bambu is not printing 300 for walls
i own a X1C
easy to find out π
open orca, import X1C .4 profile
slice
slice a cube with your VORON settings, export it as a .3mf
and i will adjust it π
jsut do what i said
why did u limit your flow to 12?
if u still run stock current values, u might need to bump them up .2
it will be a PT1000
not 100
no ampere
run_current
those who move the toolhead around π because thats what i increased in your profile
welcome
u might need to bump hotend temp up, 220 iirc is low for petg
no no
temp tower is bad
if u have stringing either your filament is wet or retraction settings are wrong
if u have bad overhangs u have bad fan or wrong settings
its nonsense
no thats fine
experience.
ABS between 250-270
PLA 210-225
PETG 220-235
the faster u print, the hotter u extrude
temp tower is wasted filament
no because of the things i said #1335979836665106442 message
U have sweeping enabled. Please disable it.
Explained here #1308097646786777108 message
And rerun all tests
To let you know. There may be only so much we can do with that ultra light weight x-axis.
That X axis with xol in blue gives me flashbacks to the attached picture 
when klipper runs input shaper test it turns off/disables the current input shaper values
I am leaning, toward it being your ultra light x-axis. would you be willing to swap it out with a standard x-axis extrusion for testing purposes
Did you lube the linear rails?
can you please provide a video of the sound you are hearing
this one sounds pretty much like Motor resonance speed to me
nothing to worry about
here im not sure what we should look out for
did you swap out your ultra light x-axis for a regular x-axis? to test
that is what I would do next
at 2:18 i only hear motor whining noise, which is normal.
ah wrong video u replied to π
that sounds like damaged bearings
Bearings grinding/bearing balls being blocked and cant move
no
the bearing inside the right front idler
yes
dont know that but it should fix the sound
unfortunately u did not click on your flag in #rules so i cant recommend a local vendor for new bearings
yup π
if u want them fast i can highly recommend https://alchemy3d.de/de/products/west3d-berserker-hybrid-bearings?variant=49957771870474 . they are pretty good and high quality but expensive.
4β¬= 1 bearing
u need 2 for the front idler
if u can wait: https://aliexpress.com/item/32850989216.html
you are not boring us. This is why we get paid the big bucks. -in high fives-
do u still have the old X extrusion? so if the bearing is replaced and the test is still bad, u can swap it
okay i understand.
im ordering from aliexpress
the bearings or X extrusion?
got it.
i hope u get a straight X extrusion π AliE can be hit or miss especially with shipping damage
u are welcome.
looking forward for your update π
its been a week, where are we at? any update for us?