#Voron v0.2 shaper issues

2721 messages · Page 3 of 3 (latest)

hasty siren
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Cause sometimes when you untighten the knob, the motor doesn’t slide to become looser so you just have a loose knob and motor stuck in the same tight position

frosty pagoda
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Ahhh

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2 on upper belt, 2.2 on lower now

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2.15 and 2.25 ish now

hasty siren
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Yeah

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That’s about where I’d leave it and use belt shaper

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Did you put the top cross bars on?

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Check for flushness and put the top bars on then run IS

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Belts

frosty pagoda
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Can do now though

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Little gap is fine

frosty pagoda
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Cool, I’ll put the top bars on then

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Just run a belt test?

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ah I gotta comment some stuff out bc I removed heater n such

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running a belt test now

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then ill do an IS

hasty siren
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A up a tad

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
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on that note, do NOT set it to autoscale when ur printing at 1.847.431,8 degrees celcius

hasty siren
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Bookmarking this

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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lol

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Oh yeah put filament in the orbiter

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Sheep goes baaaa

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B on the left when looking at it, a after b on the right

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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That’s how I remember it

frosty pagoda
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oh, thought we were just dropping fun facts

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like, cows moo

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Y, looking a lot better actually

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
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"looking a lot better" 🤣

hasty siren
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Actually is a bit lol

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Dial in belts

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Did you put filament in orbiter?

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And also is your orbiter new?

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Mine had a loot of IS noise when shaking cause the gearbox had no grease left when I cleaned it off

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Regreased and was better

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
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that thing has been abused

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(had to sand some of it down for a frankenstein project which i ended up scrapping anyway)

hasty siren
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Should be yes

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Put filament in

hasty siren
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Like half a year ago

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😂

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Put some filament in

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Can leave off Ptfe tube

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Also scrunch the idler down tight on it

frosty pagoda
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Will do

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gave my friend a bunch of my filament so he could print me some nice skirts

hasty siren
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Just a little piece

frosty pagoda
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no complaints though

hasty siren
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To wedge between the teeth

frosty pagoda
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yeah should still have a bunch somewhere

hasty siren
#

/gears

frosty pagoda
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Just rerun IS?

hasty siren
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Yeah might want to snip the top

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I’d it plugged in all the way?

frosty pagoda
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Yeah, it's going a bit through, with the screw clamped on it

hasty siren
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Push it all the way in

frosty pagoda
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yea by a bit through, i mean through the entire extruder, + a bit more

hasty siren
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Snip top belts is

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Snip extra

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Run belts is

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Then send it here

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Haha

frosty pagoda
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ah

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i see LOL

hasty siren
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The anticipation is killing me haha

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How is it?

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
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so ill lyk in about 30s

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drum roll please

hasty siren
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Going the right way

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What’s the belt tensions at?

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Try dropping b slightly

frosty pagoda
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wait.

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i didnt tighten the steppers.

hasty siren
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Lol

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Do like half a nubby

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Untwist on left one

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Do the push and tighten steppers

frosty pagoda
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Loosen on left? That one was lower tension at first

hasty siren
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Yeah

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Wait the loose one was a before

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Did you tighten b?

frosty pagoda
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2.1 on left, 2.2 on right

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Yeah ignore the belt tension things now

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Loosen the left (b) one slightly

frosty pagoda
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Okay steppers are tightened now

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Okay steppers are gonna get loosened now

hasty siren
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And do the push away from center

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Naa

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Just the left one

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Keep the right one tight you’re chilling

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Like literally 1/10th a turn or half a nubby

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The tap in the knob towards the sides or push it a bit

frosty pagoda
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half a nubby is such a funny word

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Yeah I pushed on the stepper then re tightened it

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Did half a nubby

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Ish

hasty siren
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What else would you call them 😂

frosty pagoda
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Knob?😭

hasty siren
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Yeah tighten and rerun

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That’s like the whole thing

frosty pagoda
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True

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I’m too foreign to come up with substitute for the word nubby

hasty siren
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Half a scallop

frosty pagoda
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Half a scallywag

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this is how u know it’s getting late

hasty siren
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Is it running IS?

frosty pagoda
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its homing, then gonna run

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do u want belt, or is

hasty siren
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Reths gonna kick me from IS

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Belts

frosty pagoda
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gonna do a run now

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then post it, and head off for tonight

hasty siren
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Yeah I think it’ll look good with hotend in

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Run a final Is x and Y as well if you can

frosty pagoda
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yeah sure thing

frosty pagoda
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atleast print better compared to having no hotend

hasty siren
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Potentially

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Yeah disable steppers

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A up a bit

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One scallop nubby scallywag

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Tighten then do a full set

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And you’re there

frosty pagoda
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hoping for a solid 5:30hrs of sleep, printer for 30m, then work

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then home and spend the entire rest of the week on my homelab

hasty siren
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Good luck

frosty pagoda
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will need

hasty siren
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Did you do x y?

frosty pagoda
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heres x

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Looking way less racked

frosty pagoda
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what part of that gives away that its more / less racked?

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Idk if this is right, @zinc gust is the one to ask

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But the split and the u on the thing instead of aligning

frosty pagoda
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Ahhh I see

hasty siren
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Could be completely wrong lmao I just align it and it works

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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It’s looking like much less noise

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And more expected peaks

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Once you out in hotend I think it’ll align much better

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Might want to bump up accel per hz

frosty pagoda
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i can do a run at like, 100 / 150 rn while im getting ready?

hasty siren
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You can try

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Run it xy 130-150

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I’d do 150

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Scv 5

frosty pagoda
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yeah scv is already 5

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it was not having fun in the 60hz range

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im in my room, could hear it from the kitchen

hasty siren
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What part?

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Toolhead?

frosty pagoda
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im nowhere near it atm

hasty siren
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When you do it tomorrow or next time

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Be a bird and use your ear to find where the sounds coming from

frosty pagoda
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I know my filter shakes a bunch

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Which def doesn’t help

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
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Y at 150

hasty siren
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Yeah it needs hotend in for mass but you can see the peak coming in

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Do this tomorrow and hit low 1e5

frosty pagoda
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okay so, to do for tomorrow is

one scallop nubby scallywag on A (right)
install hotend again

then run IS and belt

hasty siren
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Yep

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And keep upping accel/hz in like +25 increments

frosty pagoda
# hasty siren

i feel like im reading my doctors handwriting deciphering this

hasty siren
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Till top left is 1e5

frosty pagoda
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ah

hasty siren
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And the scale on the left is like 0-3

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This scale is 5

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So 5/10 of 1e4

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If it hits 10 then it’s 1e5 scale if that makes sense

hasty siren
hasty siren
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But does that make sense?

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Yeah

frosty pagoda
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gotcha, and i do that by upping accel/hz

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okay so, to do for tomorrow is

one scallop nubby scallywag on A (right)
install hotend again

then run IS and belt

then up accel by +25hz, until 1e5, and scale of 0-3

profit

hasty siren
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Scale works like this

frosty pagoda
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i dont like that scale

hasty siren
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Hits 10, then it enter 1e5

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So 1e4 12 in the left is actually =1e5 2

hasty siren
hasty siren
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1e5 is just pushing the true peak energy higher so it separates it from the rest (noise or false peaks)

frosty pagoda
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Gotcha

hasty siren
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Good luck! Gn

frosty pagoda
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Will need ty, gn

frosty pagoda
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No time for testing this morning sadly

hasty siren
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Wait a second @frosty pagoda

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You have the wide damping feet

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Have you tried putting stock feet on?

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My k1 had massively more vibrations and noise with similar feet on vs regular on a concrete paver/hard surface

frosty pagoda
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Won’t be immediate, but hopefully early next week?

dense remnant
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Nothing new under the sun yet @frosty pagoda ? cat_sad

frosty pagoda
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This just got here

dense remnant
# frosty pagoda

Where can i pick up? heh

I just had hopes that you found the culprit with those bad shaper results cat_sad

frosty pagoda
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I’m hopeful I’ll find them soon thanks to all the help

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Gotta be narrowed down a lot after rebuilding the entire motion system haha

dense remnant
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Haha yeah that’s the fun part of upgrading that much, starting over heh

errant berry
frosty pagoda
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No update recently, been dragging myself into rewiring the house lmao, just for fun I'll plug in the printer and run some more shaper / belt stuff tonight

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Thanks for the ping, I definitely would've forgotten about this for longer

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
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Perfect, my work contract ends in mid next week so I’ll actually have time to do it outside weekends now

frosty pagoda
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Finally getting around to swapping it, havent had any motivation to work on anything

frosty pagoda
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Installed the old feet on it, I do have to redo the belts though since I added double shear shaft retainers (no bearing yet, just the structure)

frosty pagoda
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Running some tests now, will post graphs, thanks for the patience

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well then

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that’s after swapping feet, and re-doing my belts bc I added double shear supports

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Wow

frosty pagoda
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I'm wondering if there's any way i can make those feet work, and what exactly is actually causing it, seems weird, maybe the accent pieces? i might play around with it in a bit

hasty siren
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That’s solid, I’m going to pat myself on the back and say I kinda called it after the 50th guess 😂

hasty siren
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At its core, I think certain frequencies will cause it to wobble like a tuning fork at the damping frequency or something

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
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Okay there’s a few parts to this

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So the feet themselves are some like v2, trident feet

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There’s an m6? Or whatever they are, to m3 printed adapter inside

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That screws through an accent piece

frosty pagoda
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Ignore how the foot is placed in this, that’s wrong, I’ll go take a vid n get some pics

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That’s the foot assembly, rinse and repeat for every foot

hasty siren
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I would think that’s a lot of plastic flex or the rubber is not compressed enough with weight

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If you do IS and record the feet in slow mo, you might be able to differentiate and isolate it

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Or perhaps a concrete paver with softish high density foam underneath would help the whole thing move together and have the foam underneath absorb the motion forces instead of the feet rocking

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I’ve had ok success with concrete paving slab and foam underneath, the feet don’t flex as much and it doesn’t rock there as much, it’s the whole slab and printer rocking together. But idk if it’s the extra mass that slows the rocking more that’s the effective portion or if it’s the foam underneath that has more give than the rubber feet that helps it more

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If it was me, I’d just run a stockish setup with the feet directly under the vertical extrusions. Or if you really wanted the wider feet, look at how to stiffen it and attach it to the frame at more than one point that can flex

frosty pagoda
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gotcha, they'd be nice since they also support the colony clacker door, i could put some weights in the bottom of the printer and see if that helps? 🤣

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Maybe I should also put the door on and check with that

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the parts are pretty beefy, 40% infill printed with voron standard settings

frosty pagoda
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I'm trying something funny

I took the rubber feet from the stock feet, and put them on those wide feet, gonna run a test, see how it looks

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Oh wow, and back to the funny graphs, so its definitely the feet themselves, not the rubber ones

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Wonder if i had these made in metal

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Suspected the plastic feet flex more

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I think at 95hz it’s rocking on y

frosty pagoda
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i consulted Driftrotor, she had some ideas

hasty siren
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It’d be best to identify where it’s flexing or giving away first, or it’ll just be trial and error -which is also fine but time consuming

frosty pagoda
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Might still have the old feet to test, not sure

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if not, this is $5 + a day or two in shipping to try putting more of the dampening rubber feet

hasty siren
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Slow mo the feet and take the skirts off so you can see flex

hasty siren
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My best guess is 1 where the whole foot wobbles and pivots around the screw

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2 might be an issue where the arm for the feet may flex

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
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The X axis still seems a bit like, wide? Is there any worry in that, or any way i could clean it up even further? I'm probably gonna do the rest of the IS on the metal stock feet, until i either get the other feet made in metal, or find some other way to get them working better

hasty siren
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Usually not, stiffer ridgid machines tend to have that, you can try to bump up to 1e5 to make the peak more apparent and see if that helps

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A lot of rigid monolith builds look like this

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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not if it's the screw that's weak

frosty pagoda
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The power supply does it in a different way compared to all the rest

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The PSU has the screw extremely recessed where I can use like a m3x8

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(Need an Allen key to even reach it)

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Whereas the rest have m3x60 screws

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Not sure if that’s better? Downside is that it then has a giant hollow hole all the way down

frosty pagoda
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Back to being confused;

I put all the panels on since I wanted to print (crazy, I know right)

Ran an input shaper for fun, keep in mind, this is with the colony clacker door, and micron twist lock clips on 3mm panels and 3mm foam tape.

Including the feet that notoriously have given really bad results

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ADXL is following toolhead umbilical into the back, being zip tied to it, will get a video aswell hahah, I’m just super confused

zinc gust
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while y has a seconday peak, your shaper is reporting 0 vibr on EI.

I would use EI for both x and y, and run a test print

frosty pagoda
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Will do, I’m putting on the skirts now since those have finally come into existence

frosty pagoda
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Tried printing just a thin sheet to see how the Z offset is, I don't think the right Y rail is completely paralle, despite using like 4 or 5 different tools to make sure it should be

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Both the back right (right above the screw, which i can adjust) and the front right are a bit off compared to the rest

hasty siren
# frosty pagoda

That’s umbilical pull or rails not in line in the front or back (or both)

frosty pagoda
#

Gotcha

hasty siren
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Printed ones always has a large variance

frosty pagoda
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So this is kinda just trial and error

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What’s the correct way to get it more parallel, is it just loosening most screws and ever so slightly tapping the front up? Since the back is adjustable via the spring

hasty siren
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I’ve clocked my rails before, error is quite large

hasty siren
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But because adjusting rail also kinda compensates for umbilical pull, I prefer just tapping it up or down till flat lol

frosty pagoda
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Gotcha, so it’d be fine to just try and tap an end up a tiny bit , should I do both ends since both front and back are kinda messed up?

hasty siren
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I’d do the fronts only

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Backs hard to get to and set

frosty pagoda
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Or get some CNC’d rail aligners💀

hasty siren
#

You want to adjust the 3 points even

hasty siren
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Just adjust 3 points to be even

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And see where it needs to go up or down in the fronts

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
hasty siren
hasty siren
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Level these and adjust the front

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Front rails

frosty pagoda
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Yeah they’re leveled ish

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Apart from the back right

hasty siren
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Back left and right leveled so no need for rails

frosty pagoda
#

The top left got caught in an unlucky flash I think

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
#

Feels smooth

hasty siren
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Don’t mind the front left or right

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Including back right

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Haha

frosty pagoda
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Yeah I’ll get the screws sorted until the corners I can control are good

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Then I’ll worry about the rail

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Also you’re either up really early, or late 💀

hasty siren
#

Yeah if 3 screws are set, you should have a triangle of level between the screws and the front left and front right will be off

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In diff country haha

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

Your feet added on

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Did you change to a more solid ground?

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

Perhaps they were just a tiny bit loose if it’s the same place

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Oh

frosty pagoda
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Oh when testing

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Yeah no that was the same spot

hasty siren
#

Probs screws tighter now

frosty pagoda
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After all the adxl stuff I put it on my desk

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Yeah likely

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They’re definitely in tight

hasty siren
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Be careful I’ve stripped the feet screws before

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The extrusion ones

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I’d use locktite to keep it tight instead of cranking

frosty pagoda
#

These are flathead slotted screws

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Oh extrusion ones

hasty siren
#

The extrusion thread yeah

frosty pagoda
#

Yikes

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Yeah not ideal

hasty siren
#

Ldo been the most solid thread

frosty pagoda
#

Gulp

hasty siren
#

Had to jb weld my other extrusions

frosty pagoda
#

I definitely went at it haha

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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Yeah just leave it then

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If it loosens take it out and locktite

frosty pagoda
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Yeah will do, I still have some 242

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I’ll make sure to drop some on the plastic parts too for extra strength…!

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Anyway thanks, printed some kinda tool to help move those bed screws and I feel like I just saved my fingers

frosty pagoda
#

ran into issues, printed all day, suddenly HE heater didn’t work, got the "verify heater" thing, confirmed, doesn't go up, i suspect the picobilical but i cant check until tomorrow

dense remnant
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I’d check the wiring first starting at the hotend, then the umbilical wires between toolhead and frame.
Had one wire broken after 300 hours on my ldo kit, despite strain relief.

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
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can confirm heater has continuity, checking cable

frosty pagoda
#

Umbilical cable also has continuity

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Cable also has continuity to the screw terminal of the toolhead board

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Couldn’t get continuity from V- on the frame pcb to the toolhead board, so I suppose that’s dead somehow

frosty pagoda
#

Okay yeah the Picobilical frame board is ded, changed it out, just gotta wire it up

hasty siren
#

Is the fuse alive

frosty pagoda
#

I have a dummy board that I've been meaning to swap it out with anyway, so it's not a huge deal, just a bit annoying haha

frosty pagoda
#

theoretically it’s wired up now, gonna check tomorrow, I already miss printing hahaha

hasty siren
#

Is it still dead?

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Is your heater gone?

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@frosty pagoda

frosty pagoda
#

I switched the picoblical to a dummy board

It worked for one print

I send a 2nd print, heater doesn't heat at all

I send a 3rd print, heats just fine, loses temp gradually until shutoff

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Here you can see attempt #2 and 3

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I'm pretty sure it's a heater connection issue, so i ordered a new heater yesterday since they're cheap

frosty pagoda
#

New heater installed

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Used some boron nitride for it

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Had an issue with a cable breaking in the umbilical, I’ve replaced that with another (slightly shorter) wire temporarily, ordered some 18awg microfit 3.0 crimps, so I can make one that’s a proper length

frosty pagoda
#

Having a shorting issue now with the heater, printer shuts off when telling it to heat up

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Nothing in klippy log, i just lose mainsail and LED’s / control

hasty siren
#

Are you on the Pico?

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And what wattage heater?

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Oh wait a second

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Is your toolhead board still the pico toolhead one and normal umbilical on the back part? Is it compatible/ are the traces the same!

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
hasty siren
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hmm weird

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if you probe it with it turned off

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Do you have continuity?

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I think hotend are front right 2

frosty pagoda
#

Atleast compared to the clip

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Hotend has continuity

hasty siren
#

Probe from heater on the control board to toolhead

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Turned off right?

frosty pagoda
#

Checked resistance both on hotend leads, Picobilical toolhead board screw terminal, frame pcb screw terminal, and leviathan screw terminal

hasty siren
#

When’s it shutting down

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On hotend heat up?

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

Did you try pid tuning it with steppers off?

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And do you have a 200w psi

frosty pagoda
#

Steppers weren’t turned on

hasty siren
#

Psu

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

Wait how many watts is your bed

frosty pagoda
#

Ac

hasty siren
#

Ahh

frosty pagoda
#

200w

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This setup has previously worked

hasty siren
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If you only pid or heat the hotend

frosty pagoda
#

It’s the same heater i was using, but i wanted to replace the heater to get longer wires, wasn’t comfortable with the old run

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I’m gonna try disconnecting the heater

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Then asking it to heat

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Then disconnected toolhead board, etc etc

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Figure out where it occurs

hasty siren
#

Wait

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Did you recrimp it?

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

How tights your crimp?

frosty pagoda
#

Pretty tight, did a few pull tests

hasty siren
#

Hmm is it possibly shorting when hitting x temp

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Also you ordered another one no?

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
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I tried one where it died at like 84c, then one at 120 something

hasty siren
#

The ends right at the toolhead board right? Not at the heater tube area?

frosty pagoda
#

Yes, the end of the heater wires

hasty siren
#

Sounds like a dodgy connection somewhere or a short potentially

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
#

Wanted to narrow it down, so I’m gonna start disconnecting stuff to see where it occurs

hasty siren
#

Make sure to check your pins for umbilical for scortch

frosty pagoda
#

Will do

hasty siren
#

And the frame pcb

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I’ve had it go shoddy before and trigger psu fail safe or just shutdown klipper

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Not sure which but was unresponsive and dimmed the LED’s

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Then went kaput and restarted

frosty pagoda
#

I didn’t even get like a single log in klippy

hasty siren
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Yeah me neither

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It just crashes it I think

frosty pagoda
#

Last thing i know it’s just reporting the target temp, then poof

frosty pagoda
#

Atleast i know it’s just the hotend

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Or rather, somewhere along the hotend

hasty siren
#

Unless it’s the board

frosty pagoda
#

Well that also falls into the ‘that’d suck’ category

hasty siren
#

Try connecting hotend heater or something directly to board

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If you have an extra hotend

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Make sure you have a thermistor to limit temps lol

frosty pagoda
#

I do have a tz v6 somewhere i think

hasty siren
#

I blew my board something level shifter somehow and it’d shut down instantly when starting heat - doesn’t sound like your issue

frosty pagoda
#

Oh a dragon hf

frosty pagoda
#

Found a dragon hf i can use

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Just want me to plug that in directly to the leviathan?

hasty siren
#

Yeah probs easiest

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Don’t burn yourself

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Make sure thermistor is as well

frosty pagoda
#

Wait the 24v and GND from the power wires are shared gnd right

hasty siren
#

What

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Yeah

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Is your ssr sucking all the power from leviathan

frosty pagoda
#

The umbilical and the Picobilical boards don’t show any polarity like colors or +-

#

But the gnd on the toolhead board is shared with the rest of the stuff

hasty siren
#

Oh

#

Hotend should have separate +-

frosty pagoda
#

Oh that’s not the shared ground?

hasty siren
#

Wires pins and traces all the way down

frosty pagoda
#

Gotcha, though the hotend ones were shared

hasty siren
#

I thought you meant leviathan and ssr for bed shared ground

#

Might be on ldo one

#

I know for umbilical it is t

#

Isn’t

frosty pagoda
#

Ah, I’m using the Picobilical toolhead, and umbilical frame

hasty siren
#

Is it working for dragon hf but not for picobilical th and umb back board?

frosty pagoda
#

Will try it in a sec

hasty siren
#

Dunno why but the picobilical has a ground pin that the umbilical doesn’t

frosty pagoda
#

Hm, issue with testing without the heater is that i keep getting the verify extruder thing

#

Which makes sense, but that’s annoying

hasty siren
#

Did you unplug it?

frosty pagoda
#

Yes

hasty siren
#

Can just plug it into leviathan

#

The thermistor and hotend

#

And leave the original hotend plugged in

#

Cause it’ll be disconnected at the board side

frosty pagoda
#

Yeah but I’m trying to send power to the toolhead board to see if it only happens when the hotend is plugged in

#

But it takes like 6-10s, and it shuts down bc verify heater, in like 5

hasty siren
#

Ohh

#

Do you have the extra hotend/heater and thermistor handy?

frosty pagoda
#

I do have it, but I’ll have to mess a bit with wires since it has jst xh for the header

hasty siren
#

That’ll tell you if it’s board issue or if it’s wiring/toolhead board issues

frosty pagoda
#

I can just cut that off

hasty siren
#

Probs start there and trace it backwards from known good

frosty pagoda
#

Yeah

hasty siren
#

I’m betting it’s burn marks on pin tho

frosty pagoda
#

Yep that works

#

Professional ™️ test setup

#

I let it hit 160c before i stopped it

hasty siren
#

Yeah

#

Probs the pins I’m betting

frosty pagoda
#

How would you go about isolating if it’s the frame pcb or the toolhead pcb?

hasty siren
#

Uhh

#

I change umbilicals 😅

#

But realistically I’d check the frame pcb heater connection

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

Usually jammed up pretty tight against the frame

#

Did you put ferrules on it?

frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
hasty siren
frosty pagoda
#

Oh good idea

hasty siren
#

And shorten the ferrules after crimping

frosty pagoda
#

Yeah I’ll prob do that once this thing cools down

hasty siren
#

So it bottoms out and the edge of ferrule is slightly inwards from the connector face

frosty pagoda
#

Do you cut off the shield before or after crimping it on?

hasty siren
#

Before

#

Like a non insulated ferrule

#

But I cut the crimped ferrule shorter too

#

So the wire insulation goes slightly in and the ferrule and stuff isn’t touching the frame

#

Cutting the ferrule shorter is after crimp

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

I’m putting my money on the umbilical pins tho

#

😂

frosty pagoda
#

Brand new umbilical aswell

hasty siren
#

Jready tool is amazing

#

Best tool I’ve ever bought

frosty pagoda
#

When you say umbilical pins, do you mean the cable pins, or the pins on the board itself?

hasty siren
#

Cable pins

frosty pagoda
#

Gotcha

#

I did change one cable, that’s all that’s changed since last time this was used haha

hasty siren
#

Look for scorch marks in the board connectors

#

Which cable did you change?

frosty pagoda
#

Since this happened when i took out the microfit connector, pull checked everything else

hasty siren
#

Lol

#

That’s the HE negative

#

That makes sense

frosty pagoda
#

Had a diff cable from a working umbilical that i put in

hasty siren
#

🤣

#

Oh

#

Did you check if that cable was ok?

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

And how did you depin it?

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

Jready one?

frosty pagoda
#

Oh

#

Yup lmao

hasty siren
#

Try pulling and pushing it in connector

#

Senior had any extra play

#

See if it has*

frosty pagoda
#

It’s a pretty tight fit, and takes an actual war to get out

hasty siren
#

Did you push it all the way in?

frosty pagoda
#

Yeah

hasty siren
#

Should be “floating”

#

And have a bit of play

#

Take a pic from the connector side looking at the pins

#

And from the wires side looking down into the wires

frosty pagoda
hasty siren
#

Bend the wires downwards red

#

And focus on the green

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
hasty siren
hasty siren
#

Damn I’m good 🤣

frosty pagoda
#

I’ll go check, looked like it from the other end

#

It’s a bit of a different crimp

hasty siren
#

Get a tweezer or something

#

Push it in

#

But before that

#

Unplug it

#

Make sure it’s fully seated

#

And like deep in there

#

Then plug it in and see if it happens again

#

Also see if there’s any arcing scorch marks on the pin

frosty pagoda
#

Will do, gonna see if i can find my tweezers first

#

Gotem

#

Is there some kinda secret to getting microfit off

#

This thing does not move LOL

hasty siren
#

Jready tool

frosty pagoda
#

To get the microfit connector off?

#

Like the housing

hasty siren
#

Oh

#

I pull left

#

Then pull right

frosty pagoda
#

Holding the housing itself right? Not pulling on cables

frosty pagoda
#

progress, at the cost of ruined fingers

#

Got it off, finally

#

This look good now?

#

don’t steal my fingerprints based off that image

#

That cable will be remade anyway since it’s a bit short * but would be nice to have it working in the meantime, waiting on 18awg microfit crimps

hasty siren
hasty siren
frosty pagoda
#

Still ruined my fingers haha

frosty pagoda
#

This thing was sitting unusually tight

#

I struggled way too much with that connector 🤣

#

Should i try plugging in both connector, and heated?

hasty siren
#

Yeah

#

I’m 99 sure it was that

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
#

Taking a bit of a break to help my dad with some stuff

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
#

Yeah and it prob ain’t the move to use a 20awg crimp on 18awg wire

#

Alright gonna see if it gets pushed out again

#

Does this still get the stamp of approval

#

Got up to 147c

hasty siren
#

Yep

#

Oh I guess not

#

Is the pin burnt?

hasty siren
frosty pagoda
frosty pagoda
#

Should’ve thought of that

hasty siren
#

Bit borderline

frosty pagoda
#

Prob hard to see from a single angle, looks like it’s in? I think

hasty siren
#

Yeah is it the same height as the other connectors?

frosty pagoda
#

Looks to be

#

I’ll try pushing on it w tiny bit with the tweezers

hasty siren
#

Yeah make sure it’s fully seated when plugged in too

frosty pagoda
#

Pins are seated, even when plugged in

hasty siren
#

So uh does it run?

frosty pagoda
#

nope, turned off pretty fast

#

So I'm thinking, we know its not the leviathan, and I'm seeing in the Kalico docs I can change up the verify_heater section to not care, so if i unplug the heater, then try to run it?

#

[verify_heater extruder]
max_error: 120
#   The maximum "cumulative temperature error" before raising an
#   error. Smaller values result in stricter checking and larger
#   values allow for more time before an error is reported.
#   Specifically, the temperature is inspected once a second and if it
#   is close to the target temperature then an internal "error
#   counter" is reset; otherwise, if the temperature is below the
#   target range then the counter is increased by the amount the
#   reported temperature differs from that range. Should the counter
#   exceed this "max_error" then an error is raised. The default is
#   120.
check_gain_time: 120
#   This controls heater verification during initial heating. Smaller
#   values result in stricter checking and larger values allow for
#   more time before an error is reported. Specifically, during
#   initial heating, as long as the heater increases in temperature
#   within this time frame (specified in seconds) then the internal
#   "error counter" is reset. The default is 20 seconds for extruders
#   and 60 seconds for heater_bed.
hysteresis: 5
#   The maximum temperature difference (in Celsius) to a target
#   temperature that is considered in range of the target. This
#   controls the max_error range check. It is rare to customize this
#   value. The default is 5.
heating_gain: 0
#   The minimum temperature (in Celsius) that the heater must increase
#   by during the check_gain_time check. It is rare to customize this
#   value. The default is 2.```
dense remnant
frosty pagoda
#

Yeah

#

That was me getting it off ^

dense remnant
#

ah okay.
So with the heater directly connected to the Leviathan it works properly?

frosty pagoda
#

I’m tempted to modify the verify_heater to allow me to not get an error, (and keep the heater unplugged during that!) to see if it’s the heater itself, or if it’s the toolhead board / umbilical

dense remnant
#

or likely either of them

frosty pagoda
#

I tested the leviathan ports with a different heater and thermistor, though the thermistor is known good, and the heater is good, until it isn’t (turns off)

dense remnant
#

Directly connected to the Leviathan it also turns off and reporting error?

frosty pagoda
#

Haven’t tested the 100w heater and pt1000 directly on the leviathan

#

I used a spare hotend to test

#

And I’m planning on using the spare hotend to connect to the toolhead board, to see if that triggers anything aswell

dense remnant
#

either way should be fine

#

but I'd do the classic rule out

frosty pagoda
#

I’ll see if the 40w dragon hf also triggers a shutdown on the toolhead board

frosty pagoda
#

Found the old 100w to test the leviathan with actually

#

Directly to the leviathan works with a 100w confirmed

#

Gonna try this old 100w onto the toolhead board once it’s cooled down

frosty pagoda
#

Tldr;

Found my old heater, tried it o directly on leviathan, worked

Tried it on the toolhead board, worked up to 220c before I manually stopped it.

I’m fairly certain it had to be the heater then, despite the resistance measuring just fine from the heaters leads

frosty pagoda
#

Gonna try this heater into the leviathan directly

#

Yup that turned it off

frosty pagoda
#

Ordered 2 new ones to be safe

errant berry
# frosty pagoda Ordered 2 new ones to be safe

its been 12 days, we lost track here quite hard from what this thread, #1308016330326413393 , is meant for (printer help, debugging electric stuff etc.)
so lets get back on track if we can.
whats the current state?

frosty pagoda
#

Prints are coming out nicely minus the tuning which is on me, would ofcourse love to be able to push the accel further but I don’t think I’ll make much progress without the dampening / vibration mat + the composite

errant berry
#

that being said, i will mark this post as solved

frosty pagoda
#

Sounds good, thanks for the help, just wondering if there is an advanced help channel somewhere, once I’m ready for that?😅

Appreciate yall sticking with me through this

errant berry
#

im not allowed to say more

frosty pagoda
brittle sunBOT