#Voron v0.2 shaper issues
2721 messages · Page 3 of 3 (latest)
Yeah
That’s about where I’d leave it and use belt shaper
Did you put the top cross bars on?
Check for flushness and put the top bars on then run IS
Belts
Even with the slight belt(?) racking?
Cool, I’ll put the top bars on then
Just run a belt test?
ah I gotta comment some stuff out bc I removed heater n such
https://injured.lol/i9kw96s7.png
yeah that sounds about right
running a belt test now
then ill do an IS
belt
A up a tad
Could just plug it in around back
(i just had to set max temp to 9999999999)
on that note, do NOT set it to autoscale when ur printing at 1.847.431,8 degrees celcius
Bookmarking this
(A is the right belt, aka lower, right?)
ah
i also go baaa
That’s how I remember it
oh, thought we were just dropping fun facts
like, cows moo
x
Y, looking a lot better actually
"looking a lot better" 🤣
Actually is a bit lol
Dial in belts
Did you put filament in orbiter?
And also is your orbiter new?
Mine had a loot of IS noise when shaking cause the gearbox had no grease left when I cleaned it off
Regreased and was better
no
very much no
that thing has been abused
(had to sand some of it down for a frankenstein project which i ended up scrapping anyway)
Oh yeah
Like half a year ago
😂
Put some filament in
Can leave off Ptfe tube
Will see if i can find some
Also scrunch the idler down tight on it
Will do
gave my friend a bunch of my filament so he could print me some nice skirts
Just a little piece
no complaints though
To wedge between the teeth
yeah should still have a bunch somewhere
/gears
Yeah, it's going a bit through, with the screw clamped on it
Push it all the way in
yea by a bit through, i mean through the entire extruder, + a bit more
Snip top belts is
huh
me too lOL
it's at 125hz/134 on the 2nd run
so ill lyk in about 30s
drum roll please
great question
wait.
i didnt tighten the steppers.
Loosen on left? That one was lower tension at first
2.1 on left, 2.2 on right
I didn’t tighten or loosen anything, I just didn’t tighten the screws on the steppers themselves
And do the push away from center
Naa
Just the left one
Keep the right one tight you’re chilling
Like literally 1/10th a turn or half a nubby
The tap in the knob towards the sides or push it a bit
half a nubby is such a funny word
Yeah I pushed on the stepper then re tightened it
Did half a nubby
Ish
What else would you call them 😂
Knob?😭
Is it running IS?
Yeah I think it’ll look good with hotend in
Run a final Is x and Y as well if you can
yeah sure thing
itll both look and print better i reckon
atleast print better compared to having no hotend
Potentially
Yeah disable steppers
A up a bit
One scallop nubby scallywag
Tighten then do a full set
And you’re there
setting a mental note for tomorrow morning
hoping for a solid 5:30hrs of sleep, printer for 30m, then work
then home and spend the entire rest of the week on my homelab
Good luck
will need
Did you do x y?
heres x
yeah
yup that definitely is a graph
what part of that gives away that its more / less racked?
Idk if this is right, @zinc gust is the one to ask
But the split and the u on the thing instead of aligning
Ahhh I see
Could be completely wrong lmao I just align it and it works
thats the dream, it just working
It’s looking like much less noise
And more expected peaks
Once you out in hotend I think it’ll align much better
Might want to bump up accel per hz
i can do a run at like, 100 / 150 rn while im getting ready?
You can try
yeah scv is already 5
it was not having fun in the 60hz range
im in my room, could hear it from the kitchen
When you do it tomorrow or next time
Be a bird and use your ear to find where the sounds coming from
Y at 150
Yeah it needs hotend in for mass but you can see the peak coming in
Do this tomorrow and hit low 1e5
okay so, to do for tomorrow is
one scallop nubby scallywag on A (right)
install hotend again
then run IS and belt
i feel like im reading my doctors handwriting deciphering this
Till top left is 1e5
ah
And the scale on the left is like 0-3
This scale is 5
So 5/10 of 1e4
If it hits 10 then it’s 1e5 scale if that makes sense
This may or may not be related to profession 😂
gotcha, and i do that by upping accel/hz
okay so, to do for tomorrow is
one scallop nubby scallywag on A (right)
install hotend again
then run IS and belt
then up accel by +25hz, until 1e5, and scale of 0-3
profit
i dont like that scale
Yeah lol
Yep
1e5 is just pushing the true peak energy higher so it separates it from the rest (noise or false peaks)
Gotcha
Good luck! Gn
Will need ty, gn
No time for testing this morning sadly
No time ;P
Wait a second @frosty pagoda
You have the wide damping feet
Have you tried putting stock feet on?
My k1 had massively more vibrations and noise with similar feet on vs regular on a concrete paver/hard surface
I have not, can try
Won’t be immediate, but hopefully early next week?
Nothing new under the sun yet @frosty pagoda ? 
Lots of new, just not for the v0 sadly haha
This just got here
Where can i pick up? 
I just had hopes that you found the culprit with those bad shaper results 
I’m hopeful I’ll find them soon thanks to all the help
Gotta be narrowed down a lot after rebuilding the entire motion system haha
Haha yeah that’s the fun part of upgrading that much, starting over 
its been 7 days, how are things going? did u fall deeper into the rabbit hole? 😄
No update recently, been dragging myself into rewiring the house lmao, just for fun I'll plug in the printer and run some more shaper / belt stuff tonight
Thanks for the ping, I definitely would've forgotten about this for longer
Gonna try putting these on now, but the IEC inlet could be an issue, i guess i could just detach the PSU foot, and have that sitting loosely ish?
Yeah just have it on as a test
Perfect, my work contract ends in mid next week so I’ll actually have time to do it outside weekends now
Finally getting around to swapping it, havent had any motivation to work on anything
Installed the old feet on it, I do have to redo the belts though since I added double shear shaft retainers (no bearing yet, just the structure)
Running some tests now, will post graphs, thanks for the patience
well then
that’s after swapping feet, and re-doing my belts bc I added double shear supports
Wow
I'm wondering if there's any way i can make those feet work, and what exactly is actually causing it, seems weird, maybe the accent pieces? i might play around with it in a bit
And there we go
That’s solid, I’m going to pat myself on the back and say I kinda called it after the 50th guess 😂
Take better pics of the feet so I can kinda see how it mounts or attaches and I can maybe guess what it is about them?
At its core, I think certain frequencies will cause it to wobble like a tuning fork at the damping frequency or something
You were def right 💀
Sure thing, I’ll grab some videos in like 15ish when I’m back
Okay there’s a few parts to this
So the feet themselves are some like v2, trident feet
There’s an m6? Or whatever they are, to m3 printed adapter inside
That screws through an accent piece
Ignore how the foot is placed in this, that’s wrong, I’ll go take a vid n get some pics
That’s the foot assembly, rinse and repeat for every foot
I would think that’s a lot of plastic flex or the rubber is not compressed enough with weight
If you do IS and record the feet in slow mo, you might be able to differentiate and isolate it
Or perhaps a concrete paver with softish high density foam underneath would help the whole thing move together and have the foam underneath absorb the motion forces instead of the feet rocking
I’ve had ok success with concrete paving slab and foam underneath, the feet don’t flex as much and it doesn’t rock there as much, it’s the whole slab and printer rocking together. But idk if it’s the extra mass that slows the rocking more that’s the effective portion or if it’s the foam underneath that has more give than the rubber feet that helps it more
If it was me, I’d just run a stockish setup with the feet directly under the vertical extrusions. Or if you really wanted the wider feet, look at how to stiffen it and attach it to the frame at more than one point that can flex
gotcha, they'd be nice since they also support the colony clacker door, i could put some weights in the bottom of the printer and see if that helps? 🤣
Maybe I should also put the door on and check with that
the parts are pretty beefy, 40% infill printed with voron standard settings
I'm trying something funny
I took the rubber feet from the stock feet, and put them on those wide feet, gonna run a test, see how it looks
Oh wow, and back to the funny graphs, so its definitely the feet themselves, not the rubber ones
Wonder if i had these made in metal
Graphs of WIDE FEET + stock rubber dampeners
Compared to stock feet stock dampeners
Nice was gonna suggest this
Suspected the plastic feet flex more
I think at 95hz it’s rocking on y
It’d be best to identify where it’s flexing or giving away first, or it’ll just be trial and error -which is also fine but time consuming
Might still have the old feet to test, not sure
if not, this is $5 + a day or two in shipping to try putting more of the dampening rubber feet
Slow mo the feet and take the skirts off so you can see flex
My best guess is 1 where the whole foot wobbles and pivots around the screw
2 might be an issue where the arm for the feet may flex
Skirts don’t even exist yet, so that’s easy haha, will run another IS tomorroe, just have to re mount the new feet
m3x60 screw was annoying to find btw
Just took a slow mo of the front foot, couldn’t see any flexing on the video
The X axis still seems a bit like, wide? Is there any worry in that, or any way i could clean it up even further? I'm probably gonna do the rest of the IS on the metal stock feet, until i either get the other feet made in metal, or find some other way to get them working better
Usually not, stiffer ridgid machines tend to have that, you can try to bump up to 1e5 to make the peak more apparent and see if that helps
A lot of rigid monolith builds look like this
Gotcha, on another note, if adding those extra feet to the printer doesn’t do anything, do you think getting them CNC’d could help, way overkill, but kinda funny
not if it's the screw that's weak
The power supply does it in a different way compared to all the rest
The PSU has the screw extremely recessed where I can use like a m3x8
(Need an Allen key to even reach it)
Whereas the rest have m3x60 screws
Not sure if that’s better? Downside is that it then has a giant hollow hole all the way down
Back to being confused;
I put all the panels on since I wanted to print (crazy, I know right)
Ran an input shaper for fun, keep in mind, this is with the colony clacker door, and micron twist lock clips on 3mm panels and 3mm foam tape.
Including the feet that notoriously have given really bad results
ADXL is following toolhead umbilical into the back, being zip tied to it, will get a video aswell hahah, I’m just super confused
while y has a seconday peak, your shaper is reporting 0 vibr on EI.
I would use EI for both x and y, and run a test print
Will do, I’m putting on the skirts now since those have finally come into existence
Tried printing just a thin sheet to see how the Z offset is, I don't think the right Y rail is completely paralle, despite using like 4 or 5 different tools to make sure it should be
Both the back right (right above the screw, which i can adjust) and the front right are a bit off compared to the rest
That’s umbilical pull or rails not in line in the front or back (or both)
Only cnc tools help
Gotcha
Printed ones always has a large variance
So this is kinda just trial and error
What’s the correct way to get it more parallel, is it just loosening most screws and ever so slightly tapping the front up? Since the back is adjustable via the spring
Yep, or measuring rail to extrusion top distance
But because adjusting rail also kinda compensates for umbilical pull, I prefer just tapping it up or down till flat lol
Gotcha, so it’d be fine to just try and tap an end up a tiny bit , should I do both ends since both front and back are kinda messed up?
Or get some CNC’d rail aligners💀
You want to adjust the 3 points even
Don’t haha extrusion tolerances are real bad
Just adjust 3 points to be even
And see where it needs to go up or down in the fronts
Shouldn’t be too bad, I didn’t set the screw behind the z extrusions, so I can reach it with a normal screwdriver
As in, bed should be even, and then check the rail?
Not needed, can compensate with screws in the back
Back left and right leveled so no need for rails
The top left got caught in an unlucky flash I think
Only level the screws
Feels smooth
Yeah I’ll get the screws sorted until the corners I can control are good
Then I’ll worry about the rail
Also you’re either up really early, or late 💀
Yeah if 3 screws are set, you should have a triangle of level between the screws and the front left and front right will be off
In diff country haha
Ahhh I see
Cool, will get those even tomorrow
No, the opposite, a wooden desk💀
Probs screws tighter now
After all the adxl stuff I put it on my desk
Yeah likely
They’re definitely in tight
Be careful I’ve stripped the feet screws before
The extrusion ones
I’d use locktite to keep it tight instead of cranking
The extrusion thread yeah
Ldo been the most solid thread
Gulp
Had to jb weld my other extrusions
I definitely went at it haha
Oh I had to do that to my bed
Yeah will do, I still have some 242
I’ll make sure to drop some on the plastic parts too for extra strength…!
Anyway thanks, printed some kinda tool to help move those bed screws and I feel like I just saved my fingers
ran into issues, printed all day, suddenly HE heater didn’t work, got the "verify heater" thing, confirmed, doesn't go up, i suspect the picobilical but i cant check until tomorrow
I’d check the wiring first starting at the hotend, then the umbilical wires between toolhead and frame.
Had one wire broken after 300 hours on my ldo kit, despite strain relief.
Yeah, I suppose check continuity of the heater(?), then the cable from the Picobilical, then I
Might swap out the Picobilical for a dumb board
can confirm heater has continuity, checking cable
Umbilical cable also has continuity
Cable also has continuity to the screw terminal of the toolhead board
Couldn’t get continuity from V- on the frame pcb to the toolhead board, so I suppose that’s dead somehow
Okay yeah the Picobilical frame board is ded, changed it out, just gotta wire it up
Is the fuse alive
Yup
I have a dummy board that I've been meaning to swap it out with anyway, so it's not a huge deal, just a bit annoying haha
theoretically it’s wired up now, gonna check tomorrow, I already miss printing hahaha
I switched the picoblical to a dummy board
It worked for one print
I send a 2nd print, heater doesn't heat at all
I send a 3rd print, heats just fine, loses temp gradually until shutoff
Here you can see attempt #2 and 3
I'm pretty sure it's a heater connection issue, so i ordered a new heater yesterday since they're cheap
New heater installed
Used some boron nitride for it
Had an issue with a cable breaking in the umbilical, I’ve replaced that with another (slightly shorter) wire temporarily, ordered some 18awg microfit 3.0 crimps, so I can make one that’s a proper length
Having a shorting issue now with the heater, printer shuts off when telling it to heat up
Nothing in klippy log, i just lose mainsail and LED’s / control
Are you on the Pico?
And what wattage heater?
Oh wait a second
Is your toolhead board still the pico toolhead one and normal umbilical on the back part? Is it compatible/ are the traces the same!
No, Timmit99 umbilical
100w
According to my friend who also switched over, yeah
hmm weird
if you probe it with it turned off
Do you have continuity?
I think hotend are front right 2
Back 2 iirc
Atleast compared to the clip
Hotend has continuity
Checked resistance both on hotend leads, Picobilical toolhead board screw terminal, frame pcb screw terminal, and leviathan screw terminal
Yes
Steppers weren’t turned on
Psu
Yes
Wait how many watts is your bed
Ac
Ahh
If you only pid or heat the hotend
It’s the same heater i was using, but i wanted to replace the heater to get longer wires, wasn’t comfortable with the old run
I’m gonna try disconnecting the heater
Then asking it to heat
Then disconnected toolhead board, etc etc
Figure out where it occurs
Yes
How tights your crimp?
Pretty tight, did a few pull tests
I did, that’s the one that’s installed now
Then there’s multiple temps it shut down at, or it shuts down over x
I tried one where it died at like 84c, then one at 120 something
What part did you recrimp?
The ends right at the toolhead board right? Not at the heater tube area?
Yes, the end of the heater wires
Sounds like a dodgy connection somewhere or a short potentially
Agree
Wanted to narrow it down, so I’m gonna start disconnecting stuff to see where it occurs
Make sure to check your pins for umbilical for scortch
Will do
And the frame pcb
I’ve had it go shoddy before and trigger psu fail safe or just shutdown klipper
Not sure which but was unresponsive and dimmed the LED’s
Then went kaput and restarted
I didn’t even get like a single log in klippy
Last thing i know it’s just reporting the target temp, then poof
Yeah
Atleast i know it’s just the hotend
Or rather, somewhere along the hotend
Unless it’s the board
True
Well that also falls into the ‘that’d suck’ category
Try connecting hotend heater or something directly to board
If you have an extra hotend
Make sure you have a thermistor to limit temps lol
I do have a tz v6 somewhere i think
I blew my board something level shifter somehow and it’d shut down instantly when starting heat - doesn’t sound like your issue
Oh a dragon hf
Glad for that last part, would suck replacing the leviathan
Found a dragon hf i can use
Just want me to plug that in directly to the leviathan?
Ah damnit
Wait the 24v and GND from the power wires are shared gnd right
Nono i think what’s happening is
The umbilical and the Picobilical boards don’t show any polarity like colors or +-
But the gnd on the toolhead board is shared with the rest of the stuff
Oh that’s not the shared ground?
Wires pins and traces all the way down
Gotcha, though the hotend ones were shared
I thought you meant leviathan and ssr for bed shared ground
Might be on ldo one
I know for umbilical it is t
Isn’t
Ah, I’m using the Picobilical toolhead, and umbilical frame
Is it working for dragon hf but not for picobilical th and umb back board?
Haven’t tested, was stuck on if the toolhead board could be sharing gnd with stuff,
Will try it in a sec
Dunno why but the picobilical has a ground pin that the umbilical doesn’t
Don’t even know what to make of this 💀
Hm, issue with testing without the heater is that i keep getting the verify extruder thing
Which makes sense, but that’s annoying
Did you unplug it?
Yes
Can just plug it into leviathan
The thermistor and hotend
And leave the original hotend plugged in
Cause it’ll be disconnected at the board side
Yeah but I’m trying to send power to the toolhead board to see if it only happens when the hotend is plugged in
But it takes like 6-10s, and it shuts down bc verify heater, in like 5
I do have it, but I’ll have to mess a bit with wires since it has jst xh for the header
That’ll tell you if it’s board issue or if it’s wiring/toolhead board issues
I can just cut that off
True
I’ll go plug that in
Probs start there and trace it backwards from known good
Yeah
I’m betting it’s burn marks on pin tho
How would you go about isolating if it’s the frame pcb or the toolhead pcb?
Uhh
I change umbilicals 😅
But realistically I’d check the frame pcb heater connection
Would if i could haha
Yeah, ferrules are definitely a bit bent
Yup
I cut the shield off
Oh good idea
And shorten the ferrules after crimping
Yeah I’ll prob do that once this thing cools down
So it bottoms out and the edge of ferrule is slightly inwards from the connector face
Do you cut off the shield before or after crimping it on?
Before
Like a non insulated ferrule
But I cut the crimped ferrule shorter too
So the wire insulation goes slightly in and the ferrule and stuff isn’t touching the frame
Cutting the ferrule shorter is after crimp
Yeah i do that too
Gotcha
Will try this
Thanks
Betting on my downfall smh
Brand new umbilical aswell
When you say umbilical pins, do you mean the cable pins, or the pins on the board itself?
Cable pins
Gotcha
I did change one cable, that’s all that’s changed since last time this was used haha
Since this happened when i took out the microfit connector, pull checked everything else
Had a diff cable from a working umbilical that i put in
I did not fully check it
And how did you depin it?
Knockoff microfit depin tool
Jready one?
It’s a pretty tight fit, and takes an actual war to get out
Did you push it all the way in?
Yeah
Should be “floating”
And have a bit of play
Take a pic from the connector side looking at the pins
And from the wires side looking down into the wires
Oh floating I mean with it unplugged haha
Hahah
I’ll go check, looked like it from the other end
It’s a bit of a different crimp
Get a tweezer or something
Push it in
But before that
Unplug it
Make sure it’s fully seated
And like deep in there
Then plug it in and see if it happens again
Also see if there’s any arcing scorch marks on the pin
Will do, gonna see if i can find my tweezers first
Gotem
Is there some kinda secret to getting microfit off
This thing does not move LOL
Jready tool
Holding the housing itself right? Not pulling on cables
Yeah
progress, at the cost of ruined fingers
Got it off, finally
This look good now?
don’t steal my fingerprints based off that image
That cable will be remade anyway since it’s a bit short * but would be nice to have it working in the meantime, waiting on 18awg microfit crimps
I like alternate
Perfect
This thing was sitting unusually tight
I struggled way too much with that connector 🤣
Should i try plugging in both connector, and heated?
Take a pic like this again after haha
Will do, i guess if it’s slightly angled the male pin could push it out
Taking a bit of a break to help my dad with some stuff
Yeah I’m thinking if the locking tabs aren’t fully out or deformed it’ll get pushed out too much
Yeah and it prob ain’t the move to use a 20awg crimp on 18awg wire
Alright gonna see if it gets pushed out again
Does this still get the stamp of approval
Got up to 147c
Did you double check the other end?
Did not look like it
Did not, will have a look once I’m back in the house haha
Should’ve thought of that
Yeah is it the same height as the other connectors?
Yeah make sure it’s fully seated when plugged in too
Pins are seated, even when plugged in
So uh does it run?
nope, turned off pretty fast
So I'm thinking, we know its not the leviathan, and I'm seeing in the Kalico docs I can change up the verify_heater section to not care, so if i unplug the heater, then try to run it?
[verify_heater extruder]
max_error: 120
# The maximum "cumulative temperature error" before raising an
# error. Smaller values result in stricter checking and larger
# values allow for more time before an error is reported.
# Specifically, the temperature is inspected once a second and if it
# is close to the target temperature then an internal "error
# counter" is reset; otherwise, if the temperature is below the
# target range then the counter is increased by the amount the
# reported temperature differs from that range. Should the counter
# exceed this "max_error" then an error is raised. The default is
# 120.
check_gain_time: 120
# This controls heater verification during initial heating. Smaller
# values result in stricter checking and larger values allow for
# more time before an error is reported. Specifically, during
# initial heating, as long as the heater increases in temperature
# within this time frame (specified in seconds) then the internal
# "error counter" is reset. The default is 20 seconds for extruders
# and 60 seconds for heater_bed.
hysteresis: 5
# The maximum temperature difference (in Celsius) to a target
# temperature that is considered in range of the target. This
# controls the max_error range check. It is rare to customize this
# value. The default is 5.
heating_gain: 0
# The minimum temperature (in Celsius) that the heater must increase
# by during the check_gain_time check. It is rare to customize this
# value. The default is 2.```
did you get it fully seated on the toolhead board?
ah okay.
So with the heater directly connected to the Leviathan it works properly?
Yes
I’m tempted to modify the verify_heater to allow me to not get an error, (and keep the heater unplugged during that!) to see if it’s the heater itself, or if it’s the toolhead board / umbilical
well you've already narrowed it down to that the heater/thermistor is reading properly when directly attached to the Leviathan board.
Then the issue would be between your ports on the Leviathan and the heater/thermistor on your toolhead.
that means, wiring and boards between those other parts that is a cause.
or likely either of them
I tested the leviathan ports with a different heater and thermistor, though the thermistor is known good, and the heater is good, until it isn’t (turns off)
Directly connected to the Leviathan it also turns off and reporting error?
Haven’t tested the 100w heater and pt1000 directly on the leviathan
I used a spare hotend to test
And I’m planning on using the spare hotend to connect to the toolhead board, to see if that triggers anything aswell
I’ll see if the 40w dragon hf also triggers a shutdown on the toolhead board
Found the old 100w to test the leviathan with actually
Directly to the leviathan works with a 100w confirmed
Gonna try this old 100w onto the toolhead board once it’s cooled down
Tldr;
Found my old heater, tried it o directly on leviathan, worked
Tried it on the toolhead board, worked up to 220c before I manually stopped it.
I’m fairly certain it had to be the heater then, despite the resistance measuring just fine from the heaters leads
Purely looking at it, I don’t see somewhere it would short out / whatever it’s doing
Gonna try this heater into the leviathan directly
Yup that turned it off
Ordered 2 new ones to be safe
its been 12 days, we lost track here quite hard from what this thread, #1308016330326413393 , is meant for (printer help, debugging electric stuff etc.)
so lets get back on track if we can.
whats the current state?
Yeah I started a thread for other help about the issues I had.
current state is that the printer is doing decent at about 13,000 acceleration, but currently it’s on a wooden desk so I’m waiting for some kind of vibration mat + a granite composite plate to put it on
Prints are coming out nicely minus the tuning which is on me, would ofcourse love to be able to push the accel further but I don’t think I’ll make much progress without the dampening / vibration mat + the composite
honestly 13k is absolutely in the range of what we would consider "basic", as the name of this thread suggests #1308016330326413393 , we only focus on basic help 🙂
get yourself a serial, then a whole new world will open up 😉 also one for pushing harder
that being said, i will mark this post as solved
Sounds good, thanks for the help, just wondering if there is an advanced help channel somewhere, once I’m ready for that?😅
Appreciate yall sticking with me through this
as i said, get yourself a serial 😉
im not allowed to say more
Gotcha haha, will be recording it tonight
@frosty pagoda Submit a video to https://www.reddit.com/r/voroncorexy/. Read the pinned post for more info!