Voron v0.2 shaper issues

[hasty siren]

maybe hold the toolhead board holder

[frosty pagoda]

It does slightly hit the extruder arm thing that’s sticking up

Doesn’t hit the belt here, but it’s not far from it

[hasty siren]

is that rub on the belt

[frosty pagoda]

It doesn’t hit the belt when running tests, but it’s close

[hasty siren]

I'd try this again getting focus right

dont move camera

[frosty pagoda]

Alrighty, gonna have to do that tomorrow as I’ve got work, thanks for the help though

I’ll try to find something to prop it up on, since I don’t think resting it against the frame is a good idea

[frosty pagoda]

Got a new recording at 94, with better focus on the toolhead, hope this helps

[frosty pagoda]

Gonna try also loosening some of the bearing stacks a bit, they spin fine from what I can see, but idek anymore😂

[hasty siren]

Is this what the is graphs look like in this?

And you have filament in the extruder right? Between the gears

[hasty siren]

Try filament in the tube, tightening down the idler and moving the cable away from the ptfe, or see what it looks like without the ptfe even

[frosty pagoda]

No, all filament is removed, used the orbiters unload macro

[frosty pagoda]

I made no changes between that video, and that graph, so it should be the same

[hasty siren]

Put filament in and scrunch down the idler

[frosty pagoda]

Will do later, is it fine if I just cut a strip of filament and put it through?

[hasty siren]

Yep just to go in Between the gears to stop it from vibrating against each other

And to load the idler

Probs should push it down all the way to hotend in case it’s trying to buzz halfway

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah no issue in that, will definitely try that later before I ship off my filament for some skirts lmao

If that yields no change, I could try loosening up the bearing stacks a bit

They’re not tight and they do spin, but you never know

I also have to measure them

[hasty siren]

Yeah I’d do filament, route usb cable with umbilical instead of ptfe, don’t have it against the extruder, replace with a softer rubberised one even if not right angled, and then measure stacks/tighten loosen

[frosty pagoda]

Okay bearing stacks are the right height, put some filament in there

Gonna try to run one now once it’s cooled down, then change the usb cable

[frosty pagoda]

With filament in the bowden tube

[hasty siren]

Yeah that looks way better

Bump up accel/hz to like 150 on y

[frosty pagoda]

Alright doing a run with that

XY at 150 accel/hz

[hasty siren]

Hmm yeah that didn’t work out so well

I think @zinc gust will have to come take a look

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah no worries, I’ll experiment with the bearing stacks a bit

Thanks

[zinc gust]

Can you give me updated pictures please

[hasty siren]

this was adxl facing up, 2 axis movement, usb tied to bowden

tophat and panels off

usb ziptied to umbilical instead of ptfe

last known filament not in tube, I think usb back on ptfe

[hasty siren]

filament in tube

[frosty pagoda]

Yup sure thing, one sec

[zinc gust]

what is your belt tension at and how are you measuring it?

[frosty pagoda]

Around 2.0, using the pfmakes tension meter, gantry all the way in the back, with the toolhead centered

[frosty pagoda]

Not sure I quite get that, Try 1&2 to what?😅

[errant berry]

usb c cable routing

try 1 and 2

see which is better or if its a difference at all

red line is a cable routing line
blue line is a cable routing line

[frosty pagoda]

Ahhh I see, I’ll go grab a different cable

[errant berry]

the cable should be flexible and not stiff

so it doesnt affect the adxl

[frosty pagoda]

It’s a braided somewhat-flexible cable

The most flexible I have, sadly

Actually I might have to stick with the angled cable, since otherwise it’ll sit into the frame

[frosty pagoda]

For #2, should it run along the top Y extrusion? And should I find some way to zip tie it

[frosty pagoda]

with cable routing #2, no zip ties

With cable routing #1, no zip ties

[zinc gust]

I think you might be racked

based upon your y-axis

basically it could be a sitiation where you tightened A belt all the way and then tightend b-belt

this could create a situation where you are belt induced racked

[frosty pagoda]

They were both tightened gradually, if it was racked, one side would be slightly pushed out when it should sit flush against the ab drives, right?

[zinc gust]

correct

do you have a toolhead board adxl

[frosty pagoda]

Okay let me go check rq

[frosty pagoda]

I do, but no ribbon cable for it that works

That’s why I got the BTT adxl, the included toolhead ADXL ribbon broke on me

Doesn’t seem racked, atleast I hope not, that’s the best that thing has ever looked

[zinc gust]

try attaching your adxl to the nozzle

and reruning

are you running bleeding edge

[frosty pagoda]

Yes, I am

[frosty pagoda]

The BTT adxl, or the mellow nozzle adxl I have?

[zinc gust]

it doesn't matter

just want a different view poiint

[frosty pagoda]

Gotcha, I ran some tests earlier, but not with these cable runs

[zinc gust]

so everyting on your system is metal?

[frosty pagoda]

Yes, everything I could find in metal, atleast

Also a MGN9C rail on the X axis

[zinc gust]

if so then there is nothing really to absorb any resoance, which can mean that it is going to be harder for you

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah definitely feeling the effects of my choice

Though they were atleast somewhat decent, recommending 10k a few days ago, now down to 2.5k accel, somehow

[zinc gust]

looser belts at this stage may help you

conversely tighter may be better

let get the nozzle measurement, and then try tigher belts

try 2.1 or 2.2

[frosty pagoda]

I am getting some dual shear stuff made (also in metal, so sorry lmfao I didn’t know the drawbacks)

Gotcha

Will try to attach it soon, thank you

[frosty pagoda]

Gotta take off the toolhead for this nozzle adxl, working on it now

[zinc gust]

when you do that double check the screws ont eh x-carriage

[frosty pagoda]

Will do👍 thanks

The silicone sock on the dragon UHF doesn’t quite leave enough for the nozzle adxl to comfortably sit

[errant berry]

Remove the sock

Not needed

[frosty pagoda]

Yep, gotta take off the toolhead for that

Sits a bit tight on the Yavoth

[frosty pagoda]

In general, or for input shaping only?

[errant berry]

Input shaper.
Otherwise u should use it

Should have clarified, my bas

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah no worries, that’s why im taking the toolhead off

Had it off a few times already to put on the nozzle adxl

[frosty pagoda]

Just a quick update while I do this

How should I route the USB cable, from the side like the 1/2 above, or following the PTFE tube?

[frosty pagoda]

And also, should I load filament into the hotend?

[errant berry]

Hotend, no
Extruder, yes

[frosty pagoda]

Gotcha, what about the cable routing?

[zinc gust]

Might also want to change z height in resonance testor to 10 from 20

[frosty pagoda]

Will do

[frosty pagoda]

Gotcha it defaults to like 30? I think

Loading up now, then gonna put it on the floor to test

Running first IS test now

[zinc gust]

next thing after this can you cut the zip ties holding the umbilical to the toolhead and rerun

[frosty pagoda]

Sure thing

I’ll cut the zip ties and re run now

[hasty siren]

I wonder if you can just bolt the adxl to the carriage and run adxl to see if it’s potentially toolhead or gantry

[frosty pagoda]

Cut the zip tie here

[zinc gust]

no change

[frosty pagoda]

Me saying it’s not racked is purely going off of the gantry still being flat at front and back, will def check this

Getting consistent measurements on the angles, will check others now

[hasty siren]

You have a fysetc ultralight beam no?

Mine was bent, you can notice the wiggle on a granite plate, like 1mm ish raise on one side

[frosty pagoda]

Not anymore no, replaced it when I got the MGN9c rail , it’s now a solid 1515 extrusion

[hasty siren]

Can you take a pic top down of x gantry

Is the rail sitting further back?

[hasty siren]

Are your wires pushing the belts back on the right?

[frosty pagoda]

No they don’t hit it

[hasty siren]

This idler spin freely?

Dunno why your belts have a middle line wear almost in the place between the 2 bearings

[frosty pagoda]

Yup

[frosty pagoda]

I couldn’t tell you half of the things going on with this printer

[hasty siren]

What bearings are you using for idlers?

[hasty siren]

Yeah me neither never seen it this bad before

[frosty pagoda]

Berserker F623 2RS

[frosty pagoda]

Hahaha

[hasty siren]

What belts are you running? Gates?

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah, Gates 6MM GT2 EDPM

https://3do.dk/remme/280-original-gates-belts-epdm-gates-ll-2gt-pris-pr-meter.html

[hasty siren]

And the gap in between flanges is 6mm?

[frosty pagoda]

Yes

[hasty siren]

Which kit are your extrusions from?

[frosty pagoda]

Formbot

[hasty siren]

If you measure the ends of one like the top left rear

How wide is it?

15mm on the money?

[frosty pagoda]

Measured a few, 15mm on the dot

[hasty siren]

Hmm yeah no idea still

[frosty pagoda]

No worries, im suspecting I need to perform an exorcism on this thing

[hasty siren]

I mean it looks ok mechanically

Bearing stacks might be swishing the belts a bit

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah, I don’t think I missed anything major? But im also no expert

[hasty siren]

Xy bearing stacks like exactly 19mm

Or like almost

[frosty pagoda]

18.66mm

[hasty siren]

It’s probably the angles but it almost looks like the parts closer to the pulleys is closer to outside belt

[frosty pagoda]

Nvm this changes too much to be accurate

Like 18.9 ish mm

[hasty siren]

Are they all completely parallel?

I think epdm belts are thicker than 2gt

[frosty pagoda]

Thicker yeah

Not wider though

[hasty siren]

Try using the top of the caliper ledge to measure

One sec

[frosty pagoda]

Ahh

[hasty siren]

See if you can hang it off the edge like that

The subtract the top thickness or bottom

Also check the belt distances

See if the belts are completely parallel

It looks like it’s just the picture angles but your xy joints are closer looking than at the idlers for example

Like the between belt distances

[frosty pagoda]

I’ll be able to check tomorrow, but I know the total belt length is identical atleast

[hasty siren]

Have you checked for IS results of ceramic bearing idler people before?

I’m assuming there’s no lube or grease in them?

[frosty pagoda]

From a friend of mine with an almost identical build (not identical build quality, evidently)

That’s also at 200ApH though

Gonna head off now, if any of yall have anything to try, ill get that done when im back home from some errands, thanks again for all the help

[hasty siren]

😂 bit of a difference there

I’d check your belt paths still

Also for equal height

Have no idea why so peaky so if you want to try something tomorrow, perhaps try strapping the accelerometer to the carriage directly with no toolhead, hold it or hang it off the top

And see if you still get the same results, would at least give more info or maybe eliminate toolhead as issue if graphs look the same

Gn

[frosty pagoda]

All measurements are consistent, both diagonally and across

[frosty pagoda]

Will do, I’ll grab some pics and videos of it

[frosty pagoda]

I’ll see if there’s a way to properly secure it

[frosty pagoda]

Checking belt heigh and path now

tldw from video:

belt heights are consistent, belt pathing looks good, not rubbing anywhere, sits fine on the pulleys

[frosty pagoda]

Not sure how I could do this, I don't really see an ADXL fitting anywhere on it directly

[hasty siren]

Use the adxl mount, take the toolhead off, find 2 shorter screws and put it through the carriage holes

Probs want to keep your toolhead plugged in to not have errors and whatnots from heater and thermistor not connected

[frosty pagoda]

They line up?

[hasty siren]

Yep, the bolts go through the toolhead and into the carriage screws in front

So same spacing

[frosty pagoda]

Ohh yeah those, lmao

What should I do about the toolhead, just manually hold it up while it’s doing the IS?

[hasty siren]

I would 😂

Just make sure you don’t hit the belts in the back

Also @zinc gust should probs come help you

I’m 100% out of ideas after this

[frosty pagoda]

Hahaha fair

Will try this, either way if it helps or not, thanks for going through this personal hell with me

[hasty siren]

But I’d definitely look at epdm vs gt2 belts thickness, and look at previous examples of ceramic bearings because they’re lubeless afaik and a lot of wiggling balls straight through to carriage

Send the graphs after you get it without toolhead and see if you still have roughly the same peaks and noise on the spikes

[frosty pagoda]

👍

🫡

[hasty siren]

Also I’d change out the cable and see too, that’s a bit thick and heavy at the connector

[hasty siren]

Bolts not going through the carriage and hitting x right?

[frosty pagoda]

Not from what I can tell

[hasty siren]

Oh yeah I forgot

These supposed to be shcs instead of fhcs?

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah they’re supposed to be flatheads

[hasty siren]

Is it countersunk like a cone?

Shave your gantry after

[hasty siren]

See if there’s any movement on that

Twist it like toolhead nod but watch the joints

[frosty pagoda]

Well then

[frosty pagoda]

So just try to twist it inward?

[frosty pagoda]

Doesn’t move whatsoever

[hasty siren]

Is your orbiter new?

And it looks like it might be motion system, idk if you can correlate it like this but

But the peaks are still there (missing 100hz toolhead peak and 125hz)

[frosty pagoda]

No

That thing has been through a lot in life

I should probably just put it down for good, but it definitely extrudes

[frosty pagoda]

I’m down for a total rebuild, (ie. Loosening frame, not complete disassembly) making sure it’s square (god I hope loosening is enough for that), and re doing the motion system

I’ve now attached a new umbilical cable out of pure desperation😂

[hasty siren]

I don’t think you’d need a rebuild

I’d honestly just replace the idlers with regular greased bearings

And put in gates gt2

And see if that improves things

Also print the stock mini stealthburner cause that’s one that’s been known solid baseline for me

Not as bad 2 axis nodding cause one piece and no rattly gears like g2/orbiter 2

[frosty pagoda]

I’ll start with the new belts, if not, I’ll try new bearings on stuff

I know that the hybrid ceramics can work just fine, and should, im not sure they’re the issue, I’ll play around with loosening things and seeing how that goes aswell

Am I tripping or is this “way” better?

[frosty pagoda]

Compared to this *

[hasty siren]

Yeah it’s a lot better compared to that

What’d you do?

[frosty pagoda]

mounted my toolhead and put another umbilical cable on it

Lmfao

I’m gonna run another one, with NO changes, now watch it be completely different

[frosty pagoda]

More or less the same I think?

So that’s good?

[hasty siren]

Basically the same

I think toolhead is adding the second axis movement

[hasty siren]

You can see x move in with toolhead, 75-100 peak is on x axis

No toolhead it seems fine

[frosty pagoda]

Wonder how that’s happening then

I can grab a video showing the toolhead and trying to tilt it

[hasty siren]

Do you have a mini sb?

[frosty pagoda]

I don’t

This is the only toolhead I have

[hasty siren]

pull backwards on the umbilical and the ptfe tube

also run an IS with the ptfe tube disconnected see if there are any changes

[frosty pagoda]

Ugh HE fan doesn’t spin with the new cable on, somethings broken somewhere

[frosty pagoda]

The header is getting 5v, and the tach pin works, yet it doesn’t spin, I guess the fan is dead lol

Or a break in the wire, hoping for that

[frosty pagoda]

reporting back for duty, turns out im just sleep deprived and used too long screws which physically blocked it….

[hasty siren]

Haha get some rest I think @zinc gust or @errant berry will have to come and help you

#1333602373335126067 message

This is for them, but it looks like on the gantry and with the same adxl mount, there’s only one axis of movement like it should be

With the toolhead, there’s z and x axis of movement on the Y

[frosty pagoda]

Gonna do a run without the PTFE tube

[zinc gust]

Try this. Revert to standard kalico and rerun input shaper.

[frosty pagoda]

Do you think it could be the high precision step compress?

Or is there some other major change between bleeding edge and kalico

[zinc gust]

yes

I had to go back to standard kalico on one printer and magically the shapers looked good

[frosty pagoda]

Interesting, would I have to re flash every single board in there?😅

[zinc gust]

@reef ether might want to take a look at this after they switch back to standard Kalico and run the input shaper test again

[frosty pagoda]

Is there an easy way to go from bleeding edge to mainline, or does it require reflashing every mcu in the printer?

[zinc gust]

you might have to reflash the main MCU and toolhead MCU to get rid of some of the firmware features

[frosty pagoda]

Would there be any change in just changing the branch and keeping those firmware features unused vs reflashing the boards?

[zinc gust]

I would try just changing the branch first

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah will do, and then comment out the high precision step comp

[zinc gust]

yes

[frosty pagoda]

Will give that a try after dinner, then run some IS again, thank you!

[frosty pagoda]

These are my shaper graphs without high precision step comp @zinc gust ^

[zinc gust]

what does your belt look like

[frosty pagoda]

In terms of hz, or routing?

[errant berry]

graph

[frosty pagoda]

ah

Running it now

[hasty siren]

@zinc gust have you guys seen those types of peaks and noise with ceramic bearings for idlers?

[errant berry]

i doubt we can see the difference between normal bearing vs ceramic.
assuming both are in new condition

[hasty siren]

Yeah just from skateboard bearings, ceramics are way more rattly and I think the voron ones are oil lubricated vs grease packed

Will leave you guys to it gl

[errant berry]

never had ceramic, but normal ones are greased not oiled

[frosty pagoda]

https://alchemy3d.de/products/west3d-berserker-hybrid-bearings?_pos=1&_sid=f199cfbc3&_ss=r&variant=49957771903242

I’ve got these lil ones for every bearing

[hasty siren]

Yep, grease eliminates the rattles these are oil lubricated according to west3d

[frosty pagoda]

Gonna head off now,

will try things in the morning or after work if anyone’s got any ideas

[frosty pagoda]

During the night, it evolved to this

The only thing I’ve done since last night, is turn the printer off and on..

[dense remnant]

so, did you do your graphs with heat soaked chamber last night?

[frosty pagoda]

No, both were done cold

Both the tophat and the panels are taken off anyway to figure out core issues, so I don’t think the chamber would heat up much😅

[dense remnant]

that's weird..

I think we would have the experts @zinc gust or @errant berry to take a look at that 🙂

[frosty pagoda]

The ADXL looks sturdy on the mount I have for it, but I could try printing a new one to make sure

[errant berry]

Could u remind us what u use for measuring belt tension again please?

[frosty pagoda]

I use the PFmakes tension meter

When im back from work (1.5hrs ish) i can check the tension again, and send pictures of the process to make sure im doing it right, if that’d help?

[frosty pagoda]

Home in record time, gonna get a video and some pictures of how I’ve been measuring tension

Pictures if a video isn’t convenient to watch*

Toolhead is pushed all the way back and centered

[zinc gust]

Can you run a speed test, doesn’t need to be fast just want to get the toolhead moving around. Then remeasure belt tension

[frosty pagoda]

Sure thing

[zinc gust]

If you are not touching anything before the test I think either tension in the belts is relaxing or the tension screws are moving

[frosty pagoda]

The only thing I touched is that I moved the printer a few cm (and the power button)

Should I just let it go for like, 50 iterations?

After 50 iterations

[zinc gust]

what does the other side measure

[frosty pagoda]

2.0 currently, so it’s a bit lower, I can try getting them more even, and see if the gantry is racked again

so one side has 2.1-2.15 ish, the other has 2.0-2.05

[zinc gust]

you can check racking by moving the gantry to the front and see if both xy joints align to the their respect front idlers

[frosty pagoda]

Looks good to me, both front and back, with now equal tension on them according to the meter

Running 50 iterations again, then im gonna check

[frosty pagoda]

Tension stayed the same

[frosty pagoda]

And yet something suggests that the tension is a bit messed up

[zinc gust]

You can try to redo tension.

I am bit perplexed

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah, Gonna re-measure, am I measuring from the right points? for the right side, i just turn the meter upside down and do the same thing as on the left, so it doesnt hit an extrusion or anything

[zinc gust]

yes that is correct

[frosty pagoda]

2.1 on the left, checking the right now

2.2 on the right

And the accelerometer sits pretty sturdy

If it’s any help, maybe it could be Y axis related, they don’t feel that smooth going back and forth, some parts are a bit more “choppy”

Maybe just taking the XY motion system apart, and triple checking everything could be a good idea, I feel like I've exhausted a lot of options thanks to all you guys' help, I also have new belts, so that might be a good time to get those installed

[zinc gust]

can you flip that adxl. it could be the adxl mounting

[frosty pagoda]

Just flip it 180 degrees?

or flip the actual mount

[zinc gust]

If you can flip the adxl that would be fine. Then have the cable lie like a lazy river ont eh bed plate. We want to try and reduce the effect of the cable on the adxl

[frosty pagoda]

Will try that

So like this but with the cable in the lazy river style?

Tried pressing on some things, found out my filter seems to vibrate a lot, creating more noise

These were taken with me pressing down on the filter to try and lower how much it vibrates

[frosty pagoda]

belts look a bit more even? i think?

atleast on one peak lmao

[zinc gust]

did you already check to make sure all the screws are snug on the motion system

[frosty pagoda]

Yes, they are, maybe the bearing stacks are a bit tight?

[zinc gust]

And the nozzle adxl says the same thing?

When you switch to the nozzle adxl you need to change resonance_testor

[frosty pagoda]

Why?

I have one usb cable, so they’re not both plugged in at the same time, so I have 2 adxl configs and I usually just uncomment one of them

[zinc gust]

Are they both called adxl

[frosty pagoda]

One is called ADXL, one is called BTT_ADXL345

https://injured.lol/t0mynnwg.png

https://injured.lol/vimx31u7.png

[zinc gust]

One of these is always comment out?

[frosty pagoda]

Yes, if i use the BTT adxl, I comment out the other in my printer.cfg, these are in separate folders

https://injured.lol/wqip6xp9.gif

[zinc gust]

Remove the adxl on the front of the dragon burner

Which nozzle probe do you have?

[frosty pagoda]

For the ADXL its a mellow nozzle ADXL,

https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006003342822.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm

[frosty pagoda]

Makes sense, it’s the Yavoth toolhead but close enough to a dragonburner

Will find the appropriate length screw, then make sure it’s on the carriage properly

[frosty pagoda]

That’s very innovative, should I do the nozzle or the orbiter mounted ADXL first?

[zinc gust]

Your choice

Maybe not so big a loop

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah I've got a bunch of kapton tape for the back to mask it off, im gonna run a nozzle adxl thing now, then try one of the orbiter options

I have lots of room for mounting it flat with the lazy river thing

Appreciate all the suggestions, gonna try to get through them ASAP

These are from the nozzle adxl

This is with the orbiter upright side mount and zip ties

Will try the m3 screw orbiter mount now

with the last flat mount

[zinc gust]

Did you lube your y-axis when you got it

Can you post a belts please

Using the last adxl position please

Also can you verify your screws are snug going into the y linear rails please

[frosty pagoda]

Yes I did

Lagermeister grease

Can take them off and re lube when I get new belts though

[frosty pagoda]

Yup give me a sec

[frosty pagoda]

Checking screws now

Screws weren’t loose but had a bit of room for tightening m

[frosty pagoda]

I checked the XYZ screws into the Y carriages, not the rails, oops

The rails had maybe a quarter of a turn with small screwdriver

New graphs, same mount, just with more tightened screws

[frosty pagoda]

I’m wondering if just removing the motion system, and doing a thorough re-squaring of the frame, and taking my sweet time with the motion system would smooth out some of this stuff, I wanna hear y’all’s opinions on that, you’ve all been a huge help

[hasty siren]

My vote is bearings and belts to see if it changes

[frosty pagoda]

Gonna try to redo the belts tonight, if it’s still bad, this weekend is gonna be rebuilding the motion system, unless that’s a horrible idea

[frosty pagoda]

Is there any particular reason you think it’s the bearings? I know quite a few people with different printers running hybrid ceramics

[zinc gust]

V0’s suck in the belt department. Look into belt helper on stealth changers GitHub. You might be able to save your belts

That being said, I would take the belts off and see if the x-axis moves freely.

Then I would take each bearing between my fingers and try to hear if it is crunchy

[hasty siren]

Just to rule out ceramic bearing rattliness and epdm belts in case the extra thickness is causing weird issues vs stock gt2

Also cause that’ll be the easiest way to inspect the gantry without having to do a full rebuild

[frosty pagoda]

Gonna take atleast XY apart to check bearings and such

[frosty pagoda]

Ignore the ads in the back if you can hear them lol, the X rail does feel a bit smoother going to the left, than going to the right

Y is also a it choppy when going slow

One bearing does have a bit of sound when spinning it, but the other one in the same stack doesn’t

[zinc gust]

what is that loud crack at the end

when you go slow do you feel like hit stops for a bit?

[frosty pagoda]

Me overcoming the sudden jolt of resistance and slamming it into the rail ends

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah, on y, will test on X

[zinc gust]

you might want to relube the rails. More lube is better than less lube

[frosty pagoda]

Only when going to the left on the X rail somehow

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah I’ll go grab some

Oh yeah these Y rails feel way worse than when I installed them

2 of the 4 bearings in the front idlers have had a small bit of sound when they were moved while being held up to my ear, only sometimes though, not sure how much that matters

[frosty pagoda]

Don’t know if I can rule those out, they’re not consistently crunchy, could’ve been a nail or a hair brushing against

[frosty pagoda]

Only had slight suspicion of 2 bearings, I put them on the same front idler, and when alchemy is back in stock I’ll order some more so it’s less of a pain to swap

Long videos, this is just a tldr of what I’ve done, and what I’m going to do

Might replace one Y rails, since it was dropped when I was carrying all 3 (when I first got them) though I couldn’t feel a difference in it at first, rather be safe than sorry

[zinc gust]

Do you rails lube holes actually work. Some are just for show

[frosty pagoda]

Supposedly

They should work, was told that atleast

They’re all berserker rails

I’ll probably have it belted tonight, but I do have work in the morning so won’t be able to test a huge amount

[errant berry]

Yes they work

[frosty pagoda]

Weird, couldn’t seem to fill up the mgn9c that way

[errant berry]

It needs some pressure

[frosty pagoda]

Yeahhh I tried haha, oh well, they’re lubed now one way or another

Belts are on, need to be trimmed and tensioned

Will not have time to run tests today, gonna have to wait until the morning

Gonna send a recap as this last video

Done for the night, barely got it assembled in time,

Thanks for the tips and things to look out for, might see if I can get a single run or two in the morning

[hasty siren]

Take the endcap off

and if you’re using nut bars and binding at the screws consider printing nut bars and using m2

If you take endcaps off to grease through lube ports, lightly tighten the screws after, run the carriage up and down the rails to align them, check that they’re equidistant front left right tip etc, then lightly tighten them, just needs to stop screw from backing out, too much will banana them

Pic shows example of where lube should ooze out (ball entry) when you lube through the ports

And the vids are what happens with most nutbars when tightening , nuts are a lot less bindy at screws if you populate every hole. Usually not a big issue or that noticeable with printed parts but cnc will magnify that significantly

[hasty siren]

This sounds mostly ok though so only do the above if you still have issues

[zinc gust]

@frosty pagoda before you put the toolhead on move the gantry around by hand and see if there are any hiccup areas

[frosty pagoda]

Will do

[frosty pagoda]

No obnoxious hitching apart from like, small-low speed things, no major resistance

[frosty pagoda]

Belt graph after the rebuild, new belts, and lube

Incredible 🤣

I'm not sure if this helps at all, tried running it at 150accel/hz

[frosty pagoda]

Slowmo of the 150ApH Y

[hasty siren]

Uhh right there at the end

Did you record past that

[frosty pagoda]

I did not, also not seeing what you’re seeing

[hasty siren]

Hear the vibration becomes very rattly and not just cause it’s higher also midway

Seems like the b belt vibrations are transferring through gantry

Also I think the belts should be moving opposing vs bottom kicking in after

This is gates epdm?

[frosty pagoda]

No, just gates gt2

https://3do.dk/remme/279-original-gates-belts-gates-ll-2gt-pris-pr-meter.html

[hasty siren]

What tension?

I wonder if you can go up a bit

And what’s the tension when you measure across the back

[frosty pagoda]

2.05 on the pfmakes meter

Though they’re probably still stretching and settling

[hasty siren]

Move the toolhead around a bit and do a couple centred head movements of the gantry back and forth before measuring

Try bumping it up a bit

And is it difficult for you to take the hotend out?

Not toolhead, just the hotend

[frosty pagoda]

Gotta take the toolhead off to do that more or less

[hasty siren]

Difficult?

[frosty pagoda]

Not difficult, just annoying haha

[hasty siren]

This is the only nozzle graph?

Try bumping tensions to like 2.2

Measure across the back where Bowden is

[frosty pagoda]

No, it’s an alternative mount, got the idea from reth

[hasty siren]

The move gantry forward and back and measure at sides too

[frosty pagoda]

https://injured.lol/xu36hyl0.png

[hasty siren]

Click the reply link

It’s ages above

[frosty pagoda]

Ahh

[frosty pagoda]

No, sorry, i tried some others

Ill go find them

[frosty pagoda]

Here are some

Look to be the most recent

[hasty siren]

The ones before the video are nozzle adxl?

[frosty pagoda]

Yep, these (Nozzle ADXL, same graph as above, just don't have to scroll as far)

[hasty siren]

Hmm interesting

See if you can take the hotend out

Comment out nozzle thermistor

Or plug a thermistor in the rear to the board if you have extra

Then tension to 2.1-2.3 and run it

That vids very good imo but try to start it before the y starts and end it after the y ends

Sounds like you started like 30hz to 100hz or so

[frosty pagoda]

keep in mind, those nozzle graphs are before my rebuild and new belts

could be very different now, i can test those when I'm back home

[hasty siren]

Yep

I’m seeing the gantry and carriage move a lot with y but less so the hotend and fans

[frosty pagoda]

Oh yeah true, they're not really in sync

[hasty siren]

Yeah hard to say esp with new belts, I’d turn up the tension a bit to like 120ish hz maybe 130

Should correlate to like 2.2 iirc?

[frosty pagoda]

Gotcha, will tighten them when I can

and then probably run like the speed test macro at a lot of iterations to try and break them in

[frosty pagoda]

I’ll give 2.1/2.2 a try, first gonna release the belts since I think I have some racking because of them

[hasty siren]

Potentially

When tightening, after a couple little turns left and right, move the toolhead around to reset belt tensions and then check

[frosty pagoda]

Finally have time to mess with it

Potentially dumb question,

I have my upper belt (B?) at 2.1, and my lower bekt (A?) at 2.3, now they’re even and not racked, if they’re at the same tension, they’re racked, did I mess up when tensioning them and did one side way too much? Or is there some easier way to go about fixing that

[hasty siren]

I usually trust the gantry being level more than measured belt tension because that's usually more translative in IS belt comparison for me

but I've had bent x beams that messes that up a bit

I'd say just ballpark undershoot it a bit

and do the fine tuning through belts graphs

alternatively, move gantry forward and backwards a couple times, press both xy joints into the motor mounts with one hand and measure both tensions with the other

[frosty pagoda]

Gotcha so just make sure the gantry sits flush and move it back n forth

[frosty pagoda]

Will try

[hasty siren]

yeah belt tension before and after pulley is sometimes not distributed evenly depending on which way it was moving beforehand -so I push the joints back/ press them against ab mounts to counteract that a bit

[frosty pagoda]

Reckon running the speed test macro to get it moving for a few iterations could also help distribute it?

[hasty siren]

yeah but it's usually faster to just like move it left right center, then sliding the gantry front to back a couple times

[frosty pagoda]

Gotcha, just did that for a while, gonna try measuring tension again

2.1 on upper belt

[frosty pagoda]

2.3 on lower belt, gantry doesn’t seem racked

[hasty siren]

i'd do belt graph then

[frosty pagoda]

Well then, something is a bit messed up

Just checked

Gonna record, a bit easier

tldr, back is flush, front is not

[hasty siren]

racked then

is the right xy joint

tilted backwards

like towards the back right diagonal?

also can you measure the gap between belts at the xy joint and at the idler?

looks about a mm or 1/2 mm wider at the front

[frosty pagoda]

Belt racking perhaps? Didn’t seem racked with the belts off from what I could tell

[hasty siren]

yeah most likely

could also be uneven belt lengths, make sure all the xy joints and motor mounts are completely flush with extrusions

and not tilted

[frosty pagoda]

Belt lengths are even

I used a machinist square to make sure that the motor mounts and front idlers are flush

[hasty siren]

check the backs of the xy joints

where it hits the motor mounts

is the sound coming from the front 2 xy joint idlers?

[frosty pagoda]

I’m trying to locate it

[hasty siren]

keep the toolhead centered

and move gantry forwards and backwards

then do gantry only along x left right

then the diagonals

are you sure this side isnt skewed on the xy

oh wait

turned sound on

[frosty pagoda]

Pretty sure it is tilted

[hasty siren]

😂

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah a lot of what I do is commentary🤣

[hasty siren]

a bit

[frosty pagoda]

Should I loosen belts and get that XY joint flush?

[hasty siren]

yep belts all the way loose

then derack gantry

I'd do a full screws check

so undo top 2 and bottom 1 gantry screw after belts

tighten y carriage screws

move gantry forwards back a tiny bit to space it out even

[hasty siren]

And diagonals?

It sounds like one of the bearing stacks is a bit under what should be

And it’s rattling

Or a bearing is rattling

Maybe orbiter idler screw

Where’s the sound coming from?

[frosty pagoda]

*when I said xy joints I meant ab drives

[hasty siren]

I lightly tighten xy and flush it against ab

the front diagonals dont really level it that well and can tilt them outwards like you had before

or just flush it with a known flat like a machinists square

[frosty pagoda]

Ohh yeah they should just sit flush to the gantry extrudion right?

[hasty siren]

yeah

needs to be flush

and the xy joints cant be pushind indwards or outwards or the y binds

which is why I try to move it a bit to let the y rails pull it out or push it in a bit before tightening

[hasty siren]

Lmao one sec let me get my v0

[frosty pagoda]

🤣 it’s 1:30am and im on the kitchen floor, prime time to work on the printer

[hasty siren]

Also I’m pretty sure that wonky xy joint is causing you IS issues

Make it perfectly flush against gantry

[frosty pagoda]

Fancy recording angle, this dinky machinist square isn’t helping 🤣 thanks for the video though

[hasty siren]

I could t find my square so used my caliper lmao

I have the same square it’s good

Just press it hard so it’s flush 😂 do as I say not as I do

[frosty pagoda]

Okay so loosen the screws on the gantry, press the square against it, and tighten one of the screws on both sides, then push it flat against A/B drives and lightly tighten the last screw?

[hasty siren]

Loosen the screws

Slide it so xy joints settle vertical

Can press outwards a bit

Confirm alignment by sliding and seeing if you hear ball clicking noises

If not the flat surface on the back and tighten one screw (I usually do bottom screw left and right

With the square or flat pressed along the gantry

Oh found my square

[frosty pagoda]

Taking s break to charge my phone, crucial step for me to survive this

[hasty siren]

Left and right, tighten bottom screw

Then do the wiggle like you’re skewing the gantry to settle the tops and align everything

[frosty pagoda]

Ah, so just flat against there and tighten the bottom screw, then wiggle, and then flatten against A/B?

[hasty siren]

Slide it back and see if left or right hits first,

Wiggle it a bit to adjust it more even, repeat

Then tighten too one above the bottom one

Slide again, recheck it hits even, adjust if needed

Then press and last screw

[hasty siren]

Yep

Don’t go too extreme on the wiggle it’s just to set it in a bit and make adjustments

[frosty pagoda]

Okay so not a baby-shake

Got it

let me see if I can find a power bank somewhere

[hasty siren]

Recorded a vid it’s easier lol

You can hear it align in the end

With a solid thunk and no bounce on both sides

[frosty pagoda]

Definitely gonna take some trial and error of me sending videos LOL

appreciate the videos though, definitely helps visualize

[hasty siren]

Turn up the sound you can hear the slight skew even if the vid doesn’t show it

Then the wiggle at the end aligns it

And you hear it not bounce when tapped in either side

The ultralight beam doesn’t have as much wiggle so I had to pull it out a bit to misalign it

Don’t do that, just do the wiggle to straighten it

This is the part I’m talking about, trying to wiggle it out towards the front to skew it and show you want I mean (don’t do that, just wiggle it a bit towards alignment like when I say “there”)

[frosty pagoda]

So at the beginning, when you say gap there, do you mean here?
https://injured.lol/dei3w9fg.png

[hasty siren]

Yeah

I’m making the gap with my fingers

But like as An example

If the xy joints are skewed and not flush it’ll have that kinda gap

Like it’ll be touching at the ends but have a middle gap

[hasty siren]

Green touching, arrow gap

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah okay, so its at an angle there

[hasty siren]

Tapping won’t show cause greens touching

[frosty pagoda]

Ohhh

[hasty siren]

Yep

I angled it for you

[frosty pagoda]

very much appreciate it 🙏 messing with your own stuff to help haha

[hasty siren]

No worries the noodle beam is just temporarily on there till I find some m2 nuts and replace it with an extrusion😂

[frosty pagoda]

i have some square nuts in my gantry currently, they were a pita to get in compared to hex

gonna see if my phone has enough of a charge to handle recording lol

[hasty siren]

I like square nuts

Gonna get ready for bed- rest and charge phone I’ll check in after 😂

[frosty pagoda]

Just s few quick checks,

Loosen XY, square then to the gantry beam with the square, move back and forth on y and check for gaps

[hasty siren]

Ok

1. Loosen the 3 screws
2. (Tighten y carriage screws) then Slide a bit towards space out xy joints
3. Square on the back of right, squeeze front bottom xy joint and extrusion against square on the back of x gantry, tighten bottom screw (repeat on left after)

[frosty pagoda]

Ah I see, gotta do the right side first

[hasty siren]

4. (Optional tighten top screw closest to toolhead) push back against ab to check for V gap and xy skew, also racking where one hits first

[frosty pagoda]

Don’t know how I always manage to do this late at night, during the day would definitely help processing this stuff lmfao

[hasty siren]

5. Wiggle towards straight and alignment, check with square if you feel like it’s flattened

6. Check alignment and flushness and look for a solid thunk and no tap (check the last thunk in video before it ends, solid flush thunk sounds different and 0 tapping noise/play on both sides)

7. Tighten top screws

[frosty pagoda]

Okay I see, definitely had that wrong at first lol

[hasty siren]

And then wiggle adjust as needed

[frosty pagoda]

The y carriage screws are already tightened, gonna do the back of the extrusion + xy joint and bottom screw now

[hasty siren]

Yeah order doesn’t matter too much imo

I like bottom screw and or top screw above that because it creates a pivot point

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah, just gonna follow this, I don’t trust my brain to make sense of this in any other order

[hasty siren]

And allows it to self align a bit

Then tighten the outer screw last cause that locks in alignment

(Can’t pivot with that one tightened)

That’s the pivot point

[frosty pagoda]

Go get ready for bed haha, I’ll have lots of videos of me going through the process for when you’re back

Can get a good laugh out of it🤣

[frosty pagoda]

Seems to hit at the same time, this is only with those bottom screws tightened up, after squaring against the square

Doesn’t seem like there’s any v gap? Nor xy skew? Or I just don’t know what to look for, you can yell at me for that later

[hasty siren]

Feel with your fingers if it’s flush across the back

Flashlight underneath check for light gap etc

Check bottom and tops separately

[frosty pagoda]

Don’t know how I’ve managed this but now it is definitely racked after moving it a bit by hand

[hasty siren]

Top can skew while bottom is straight

[frosty pagoda]

Ah

Im fighting an uphill battle against myself somehow

[hasty siren]

Wiggle is to set it and make sure everything settles in like straight and bottom matches top

Don’t have to if you can force it straight some other way haha that’s what works for me

Don’t forget the press when tightening the outside 2 screws

When I tighten those 2 it always skews a tiny bit for me

So I try and force it straight by the press

[frosty pagoda]

Ahhh

Yeah im still at step 4, trying to figure out v gap / xy skew or racking

This might be a lost cause at this time of night, and is probably better used tomorrow when I can comprehend the steps 💀

[hasty siren]

Try not to overthink it

I may have over complicated it cause I’m dead too 😅

[frosty pagoda]

Haha maybe it’s best for both of us if we continue this tomorrow or whenever you’ve got time

[hasty siren]

👍

Basically it’s this ^

[frosty pagoda]

the flashlight check was a bit confusing, im assuming you mean if any light shines through between the AB drive and the XY joint when its pushed back?

[hasty siren]

First one bumps a bit and is a bit of a ^

Yeah like if you shine a phone flashlight from underneath

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah there's always quite a gap between the xy joint and the ab drive

[hasty siren]

And the gantry is like ^

You’ll have light shine through where the blue mark is

[hasty siren]

Yeah that’s fine cause the belts will pull back a bit

[frosty pagoda]

ah, so just force it back?

[hasty siren]

But if you push gantry against ab and its skewed, only the furthest edge/tip of the xy joint will be touching it, and the extrusion will be forwards and not touching it

[hasty siren]

Yeah press it against it and see if there’s a V (green in pic)

[frosty pagoda]

okay im mostly following now

still gonna attempt this tomorrow, but atleast im somewhat there now haha

[hasty siren]

Like extreme but if red is gantry, green is xy joint

[frosty pagoda]

okay so that is the v skew thing

[hasty siren]

White parts will hit ab

[frosty pagoda]

is that skew actually there? if so, how you see that is beyond me

[hasty siren]

Yellow arrow is the gap that light will shine through from the bottom up

[hasty siren]

No don’t think so

I thought you were saying it’s there

😂

[frosty pagoda]

oh

i hope not

i didn't fully push the gantry against

[hasty siren]

Asking how to adjust and what I mean 😂

But the original one before all this definitely looked like it was

[frosty pagoda]

im definitely asking for both just to make sure, i think i get it mostly now though 😂

Oh definitely

Even I could see that

[hasty siren]

Yeah that’s like what you want to eliminate

[frosty pagoda]

Going to try and grind out this printer tomorrow, as every single weekday in the coming week i'm getting new server hardware

[hasty siren]

But if top and bottom are flush against a flat surface/square of and gantry is horizontal

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah

[hasty siren]

Aka touching left right same time solid thunk and extrusion is flat against it too

Then it’s chilling

[frosty pagoda]

yeah we want like a thunk not a clunk

[hasty siren]

Yeah like the vid

Second thunk

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah, gotcha, most of the time is probably gonna be spent trying to make sure that gantry is deracked

[hasty siren]

Damn reth or anyone that reads this tomorrow is gonna think we’re both extra slow 😅

Like 2 drunk people trying to explain gantry racking cause we’re both tired lmao

[hasty siren]

Yeah and do belts after evenly

[frosty pagoda]

oh yeah definitely, i don't blame them though

might have more questions about it, but that'll wait until tomorrow so i can think it through again

the skirts for this thing are also being printed now, so it'll look way more complete, and hopefully also functional

[hasty siren]

Last thing is if the belts skew gantry and making the tension even agin doesn’t straighten it still, you can wiggle a bit to straighten, move toolhead, and recheck belt tension after

Cause sometimes the belt racking pulls the gantry skewed and the gantry still sticks in that position (the V) even when you fix the belts

[hasty siren]

Haha good luck tomorrow

Gn

[frosty pagoda]

Will need, gn

[frosty pagoda]

This looks like a bit of a grub screw?

That could be an issue lmfao

I might wanna pull the steppers out and buy some new grub screws then

Wow

[hasty siren]

Uhh

Where’d you get that?

😭

Looks like it just backed out tbf

Use thread locker on it

Or superglue/nail polish if you have a gf

[frosty pagoda]

literally found it sitting on the middle of my bed

thought it was a piece of plastic at first

[hasty siren]

Probs hotend then

[frosty pagoda]

Ohhh that could be

[hasty siren]

Don’t apply threadlocker or nailpolish then

Slice boron nitride paste works well as a threadlocker tbh

[frosty pagoda]

now to figure out where the dragon UHF has a grub screw

[hasty siren]

Thermistor or heater grub

[frosty pagoda]

none of those have one on the uhf

afaik

does on the HF or standard, forgot which

[hasty siren]

How does the heater or thermistor stay in?

[frosty pagoda]

it goes in from the top n down

not from the side

[frosty pagoda]

loading up the cad model, im doubting myself but dont wanna take it apart unless necesarry

[hasty siren]

Check the sides for the grubs haha

Just a sock no?

And do an Is run without the hotend in

Perfect time to pull it out real quick

[frosty pagoda]

yeah but that sock can't be accessed until the toolhead is out

[hasty siren]

Take the front fan with it as well but leave the hotend mount in

[frosty pagoda]

the yavoth is one piece, if i take the hotend mount out, the entire toolhead is off ;p

[hasty siren]

Nice

Take the hotend and front fan out then haha

[frosty pagoda]

mentally preparing myself

[hasty siren]

I suspect you’re getting a bit of penduluming

[hasty siren]

Pretty easy

[frosty pagoda]

would that show that much on an IS graph, since the adxl is mounted to the orbiter?

[hasty siren]

2 screws in front, 2 side zip ties

[frosty pagoda]

easy? yes, tedious? also yes

[hasty siren]

And 2 on the extruder

[frosty pagoda]

not even tedious

just me being lazy

[hasty siren]

Don’t even need to take the toolhead board or anything off really

[frosty pagoda]

yeah

im still just being lazy

but will do it

[hasty siren]

Probs about 20% chance at least I’d say

[frosty pagoda]

thats the best chance ive had at anything with this apparently

so ill take it

(also still have to fix the gantry, will do that after i guess)

[hasty siren]

https://tenor.com/view/hanginthere-kitten-meme-ogmeme-mondaymotivation-gif-17494369463734436950

[frosty pagoda]

First time finding out the dragon uhf had grub screws for the heater

That makes so much more sense

[hasty siren]

Yeah uhh

You should probs tighten it

[hasty siren]

To prevent vibrating

[frosty pagoda]

That means im still missing one for the thermistor

💀

[hasty siren]

Just need one in each really

🤣

[frosty pagoda]

Or I just use one in the heater

Yeah

Fucking hell

Well thanks for the lesson on hardware I bought literally a year ago

[hasty siren]

Im literally building the hotend rn

Great timing

[frosty pagoda]

I hate boron nitride

Always an air pocket in the syringe so it flies out

okay, either way im running without thermistor and hotend heater for one run, right

And he fan

Basically this + extruder

[hasty siren]

Yeahh

[hasty siren]

Same boat rn

[frosty pagoda]

Going out for a bit, then gonna re attempt the gantry

[frosty pagoda]

So even after tightening this screw with the gantry pushed back flat, it seems a little bit skewed?

Either that or im really overthinking stuff

[hasty siren]

Yeah it looks skewed

Untighten the right screw

Put the square behind it and tighten the right screw

Is the left flushish?

[frosty pagoda]

Only thing I’ve done to the left is the bottom screw, with the square

That’s with using the square for both the bottom and top screws

[hasty siren]

Is it square when you look at it from the side?

[hasty siren]

And is this white left part flush ish with the extrusion?

If it is then use that to pivot/wiggle it straight

[hasty siren]

If you wiggle it and push the extrusion at the left screw towards AB motor mounts, the xy joint will pivot it out a bit and it will get pulled forward, try to do that a bit and hit it flush

[frosty pagoda]

It does look square imo (?)

[hasty siren]

Feel the back as well

If you’re sure it’s square then lock it in haha

[frosty pagoda]

im scared to say something as definitive as "i'm sure" with this printer, looks square, and feels square compared to the gantry extrusion

[hasty siren]

Take a top down photo

[frosty pagoda]

(I’ve only properly attached the right side, the left side only has the bottom screw, screwed in

[hasty siren]

If you think it is then don’t worry

[hasty siren]

Can’t really see but it does look ok

Top down pic of the right Xy joint?

[hasty siren]

Definitely still skewed

[hasty siren]

Wait a second

Try to take a pic of the bottom xy joint from this same angle but a tiny bit more to the rear

[hasty siren]

To try and see this

[frosty pagoda]

Adjusted the top a bit

[hasty siren]

The bottom sticking out, same on the other side?

[frosty pagoda]

Just fixed that I think, I’ll check the other side

[hasty siren]

Top looks flush in the photo

[frosty pagoda]

Loosened the tops so I could get the bottom straight

This is s pic of left and right, look fine?

[hasty siren]

Ohh that’s much better

Right side top still a bit skewed

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah I loosened them

Wanted to make sure the bottom was fine first

Then I’ll run it back and forth a few times, then do the top

[hasty siren]

Perf

[hasty siren]

Yeah way better

Does it hot the back left and right at the same time?

I’m hopeful that this was causing wonky IS

[frosty pagoda]

Oh wait I didn’t save with sound so u could get the clunk

[hasty siren]

Yeahhh there we go

Looks straight too

When doing belts

Do a bit at a time left and right

Try not to skew it

[frosty pagoda]

That’s always been my goal🤣

Usually what I do is I take both knobs and turn them both an even amount

[hasty siren]

That looks straighter too

Way better

[frosty pagoda]

What’s best, tightening them at the same time, or going bit by bit alternating the knobs?

[hasty siren]

I do like a notch at a time left and right

But if you’re fairly well ambidextrously coordinated

Then at the same time probably would work just as good

[frosty pagoda]

I’ll do a notch a time hahaha , I don’t trust myself that much being ambidextrous

Taking things slow and steady with it

[hasty siren]

Yeah

If it racks then try correcting with belt tension first

And move the tool head around a bit before checking again

Last line option is the wiggle

Cause that might throw it off a bit

Don’t get distracted @frosty pagoda

You can show your build off after IS graphs are solid

[frosty pagoda]

Hahahah

[hasty siren]

You’re so close

[frosty pagoda]

I’m focused for today, the next week is gonna be busy

Gonna atleast try to get the tension right, no racking, and get an IS run tonight

Then maybe work on it tomorrow morning before work

[hasty siren]

Gantry screws tight no?

Idlers free spinning?

If so then belts, IS and I’m 90% sure it’ll be solid

[frosty pagoda]

y carriage screws are tight, all xy joint screws are tight, idlers and all bearing stacks spin freely

Will prob make a short run through video of what I have done and confirmed

Then if I missed anything it’ll be more obvious

[hasty siren]

Perf

Naa main thing is the xy joint screws

If the outer one is tight and it’s flush, usually will be fine

That’s the one that holds the gantry straight and stops the pivot

[frosty pagoda]

Just incase anything else needs to be ruled out potentially haha

Man if this was one of those build and tune livestreams

I’d be so rich

[hasty siren]

Clearly said by someone that’s been traumatised

[frosty pagoda]

What makes you think that apart from the countless hours spent on the cold kitchen floor

[hasty siren]

Lucky I had my screen brightness turned up lmao

Or you’d have to rebuild again

[frosty pagoda]

okay im tensioning the knobs the same amount, yet one is at 0.7, and the other is at 1.5

[hasty siren]

Move tool head recheck

Idk if this is the proper way of doing it

But I move gantry back, press the joints and test the tension then

[frosty pagoda]

Yeah even after that

[hasty siren]

Tighten the looser one then haha

[frosty pagoda]

Good idea

[hasty siren]

Yeah leave the higher one

Try and bring then closer

[frosty pagoda]

Other belt also goes up when tightening one side though

[hasty siren]

Hype

[frosty pagoda]

Ones at 2, other ones now at 2.3

[hasty siren]

Yep*

You want to undershoot it

Cause when you tighten one side the other tightens too

Let out the 2.3 one slightly

Then press the knob towards the side

[frosty pagoda]

Huh?

[hasty siren]

( or the side of the stepper closest to the motor mounts thowards the outside

Push outwards

Cause it sometimes sticks even if you untighten knob

So 1. Slightly untighten knob

2, push motor towards edge

Then move gantry around a bit and recheck

That make sense?