#Froron - Stealthchanging 2x tall v2.4 350 with built-in tophat/filament drybox
3153 messages Β· Page 4 of 4 (latest)
does wwg2 need to be modified for anthead? didn't know that!
Also consider joining the rapidburner gang. @frail adder why did you leave us π
thx but that btw does not include the build in support thats required for printing
just enable support and it's fine
I ahd to remove it cos of sls pa12 lol
oh, I also increased the umbilical plate
mounting threaded insert holes to proper M3x4x5
screws in a lot better now
Probably cause Goliath does better in UAP. 
these should let me mount cekim's carto mounts finally
also time to replace belts with closed loop :d
cool
made 4 jst VH extender cables
time to fix zbilical, install kinematic bed mounts, and redo the belts for the 7th time
slow progress due to more life updates, but when i get the time I'll make the final upgrades then the printer should be ready for it's first full calibration!
Time to try adding some self leveling casters.
ok. finally back to the 3d printer in full force! It's moved out of my room and into the living room, which alone was a monumental task..
When are you doing a 4040 frame?
never, I don't ahve enough space already lol
Have you considered removing your bed?
The printer is similar in size to a bed actually
@burnt sinew lemme know if u get around to those wheels π
the casters are here and I can also take a look on my own, maybe drill out the hole sizes to fit the inserts in g2zxl
I am actually planning on it once I wrap this latch for my door and start the test printing.
β€οΈ
Just sent my stuff to the printer. Looking at the cad, I can definitely do this. Give me about 30 minutes
Speaking of wheels, have you thought about leveling casters?
those are actually exactly what wheels is making adapters for g2zxl for
also @burnt sinew my bambu lab a1 is up and running (lol) and the exact feet u used are also here now
π
Making? Made. To a test print and make sure everything fits. The outer corner bolt is VERY close to the m3 bolt (which are now socket heads)
That M5 bolt in the center is critical. Let me know if there are any adjustments needed.
i might have to drill enlarge the g2zxl holes and put threaded inserts
The center bolt is what is load bearing. I wouldn't mess with it
I know. I am not overly concerned with them
The center is the load bearing bolt, the rest should be fine- but i'm still afraid of it just not screwing in at all.
Up to you of course
i'll print these 100% infill since i'm afraid a bit
but yeah if i think it's sus ill just go ahead and enlarge the holes w a drill, put some threaded inserts in
should be easy. No clue why G2ZXL just doesn't have them by default lol
There is a lot of support area. I am nore concerned about your bottom panel clearing
good point, but i'd rather go panelless than no wheels lol. I'll print them and let you know / can probably make my own changes from ehre if needed. Awesome and thank you!
Let me know if they work and I will publish them on printables π
β€οΈ
And my test latch for my door just finished printing. perfect timing. LOL
Leveling casters are awesome!
Im using them on my trident and they are

ing now**
And door latch works. Time for a beer
Awesome
@burnt sinew btw do u know what screw sizes / lengths for the
leveling casters?
M5 button heads. 3 of them are 8mm 1 of them 12
Then you need m5 nuts, 4 per mount
and if they don't fit, I will slice a .5 off them in the cad. LOL
they are printing and printing well indeed
going to be a shitty gray cos sunlu sent me the wrong color
@burnt sinew they fit perfectly!
The only bad news is they (as expected) interfere with my acm panel
i might have to take a hacksaw to it which is quite sad
@burnt sinew actually
i do still need another ACM panel for my old voron
do you have a working panel for your mod? I think the clearance should be identical.
if you can send a DXF my way that'd be much appreciated, i'll just get it sendcutsent'
also they're definitely a little wriggly actually. Expected from just a single m5 being load bearing, i will definitely consider doing the m3 threaded inserts
Itβs plastic mounted on plastic mounted on t slot extrusion nuts so definitely not expecting too much lol
Ig my g2zxl is CNC but still
would it make more sense to mount them with the m5 bolt directly beneath the vertical extrusions so the load goes directly thru the centre of the wheel?
perhaps, it's wriggly though as in the whole wheel seems to be tilting a bit and i'm not sure which is the non rigid component. If i'm not pushing on it w/o the levelers all the way down it doesn't wriggle during moving, i'm just concerned for later when I do use them.
But for now i think it's fine and an easy upgrade is to drill out the g2zxl holes and make them bigger so i can fit inserts and properly screw down the m3 bolts (not load bearing, but will prvent horizontal wiggling better than threading into plastic)
eyyyy nice!!!!
they should make a giant differnce when moving the machine around!
already did
working on a better clearanced ACM panel than hacksaws cos is till have to open the machine up lol
it's really annoying but also super tempting now to just
fully rebuild the machine with bedside electronics mount
ngl
under bed electronics sounds a bit painful to work onπ
i slapped din rails on the back of mine, then simply extended z motor wires with long jst-xh lipo balance leads. no enclosure or anything yet π it's so nice when i need to plug in something new, add another board, or check a pin
not if the unimportant stuff is under the bed haha but yeah esp since i have a toolchanger backpack a rear e-bay would be ideal
@burnt sinew any chance you have the bottom panel DXF for the wheel mounted one?
Negative. You can cut ACM perfectly with a utility knife BTW
wait fr?
ok
i do have some smith blades which would be perfect
can i just score and break off, or do I just cut through all the way
Yep, that is how it is done professionally, score through the aluminum cladding on one side and snap it on the line. I like going a bit into the core. Cuts super easy. The only readson I would ever Cnc ACM is if it had 50 holes in it
scoring, depends on the acm. usually acm is just san/acrylic between very thin alu so scoring works.
if you cant be bothered then saw, jigsaw, circular saw, dremel/multitool with cutting disc all makes short work of it just be careful so you don't go overboard and shred/delaminate it.
then clean up mess with deburr.
Can confirm. $1 knife and a pair of pliers is all thatβs needed.
I watched a crew renovate a car dealership. The entire facade of those things is ACM. Thick stuff too. They score and snap that entire building together. Also a good place to dumpster dive if you want some
Got an ikea SKADIS pegboard
time to 3d print a fuck ton of stuff to help organize room / 3D printer tools
skΓ₯dis ftw π
that's cheating π
it's like the night before where everyone cycles it
i did like 33% of it on the scooter and now my back is cooked LOL
ah, gotcha
also after all that i wiped out on the way home 30ft away from my house which is wild
its fantastic!
cant wait to order a kit for my trident
my sheet metal gets comparable graphs to you so i'm not gonna bother upgrading Froron
this kit is going (with west3d berserker bearings) onto the shitty fysetc printer π
where the hell are mine?
I ordered mine months ago from kb3d and I still don't have them
this is why you go with west3D!!!!
I ordered the last trident kit on the internet yesterday from west3d
I got a trident today
my first trident
pre ordered all of mine hehe
but yeah i'm not even using my 2.4 mono kit lol i'm perfectly happy w my sheet metal rn
yeah I pre ordered my 8 2.4 gantries like 3 months ago
Finally got the superior printer I see. 
holy
having no bandwidth SUCKS
i am working at a startup and just got a contract @ another startup as a trial too so
i'm sitting at 0 time
all i have to do is reinstall the belts, extend the Z wires, tidy up zbilical and install cartographer / umbilical and i would be set
but i'm so tired all the time π
auch. careful doing that. hope youre getting paid accordingly at least π«€
paid ok for sure
wasn't, now am
man, I have been messing with the trident more. I really hate to admit it but this is a way better design for messing around with different stuff. Everything is so much simpler and easier to deal with. I can't speak for performance because both seem about the same but the trident is way more user friendly and I like it a lot
well. Got a few successfull two tool prints going
which is great
but unfortunately I'm now moving from Boston to SF... and idk how the printer is coming with me
it's on wheels, right? π
that is awesome!