Froron - Stealthchanging 2x tall v2.4 350 with built-in tophat/filament drybox

[frail adder]

Reliable and fast don’t belong together. Lol

[molten dirge]

damn

across all the tools, i found out the long standoff for mounting the ebb36 was wrong size

28.27 not 26.27mm

smth is not right

@gleaming cargo Hey, looking at your mod https://www.printables.com/model/1382188-ebb36-wwg2-mount-w-spring-steel-slot-for-stealthch here

what standoffs did you end up using to mount the toolboard?

[gleaming cargo]

hey mate, i'll find the Ali link for them gimme a sec

I used these, M3 x 20 long https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008569983940.html

[molten dirge]

3 m3x20 works for this one?

or is this a 2 standoff mount? 😄

thanks @gleaming cargo ! 😄

[gleaming cargo]

it uses 2x of the standoffs per mount

[molten dirge]

i see ur not mounting anything on the 3rd hole, gotcha

[molten dirge]

@frail adder

trying to figure out how to fit the thermistor

w/o getting fiberglass all over myself

Still waiting on new cowl parts but the showe good test fit

[royal cairn]

fast != speed monster 😝

[molten dirge]

it's a funssor AWD, it won't be going 50k accel :joy

[hazy flame]

funssor?

[molten dirge]

yeah looks like some other motor tensioning awd gantry they ripped into CNC

i got it originally for this build before I decided on monolith sheet metal

[hazy flame]

is that the notorious one that got taken down?

[molten dirge]

https://funssorlab.com/products/funssor-cnc-all-metal-refined-voron24-trident-3d-printer-9mm-belt-4awd-mod-upgrade-kit-for-nema17-stepper-motor
this is mine

[hazy flame]

that was a copy of monolith r0.5?

[molten dirge]

nope

monolith does not use motor tensioning

i believe it's ATiny whatever?

[hazy flame]

oh oh

yeah that is the atss copy

[molten dirge]

lol they already copied carbonara but for titanium

[molten dirge]

yeah, it's pretty well cNCed

[hazy flame]

those 1mm titanium tubes are terrible

the 2mm ones are pretty great for high temp builds

[molten dirge]

Don't get the funssor G2ZXL btw. I was the one who requested them to make it and can confirm the kit is shit, they didn't countersink the screw holes so you have to do it yourself and that makes bearing alignment very tricky

i barely got it working and the performance is there though

[hazy flame]

Don't worry, I will never buy anything from funssor lol

[molten dirge]

anyways today the gantry is fully coming off, all wiring disconnected

probably replacing the bearings & installing the alignment spacers today

then gotta figure out how to wash the linear rails & replace lube with xhp 222

[hazy flame]

your goliaths are looking really nice

[molten dirge]

indeed, but lets see if the heat shield actually works

the tubing thickness is a little thin

[hazy flame]

I have never seen the fiberglass that you used

[molten dirge]

some uxcell cable shielding 10mm

😂

it's genuine fiberglass, it's everywhere on my desk and killing my skin

[hazy flame]

oh lol

the worst thing about toolchangers is doing everything 5-6 times

[molten dirge]

indeed

EVERY tool needs to be rebuilt btw

[hazy flame]

I am in the same boat

[molten dirge]

i'm still waiting on formlabs to ship the new PA12 dock & cowl parts]

[hazy flame]

I need to send out my slm order for my toolheads and disassemble the 4 calamity toolheads i have

I should just add them to my farm with normal chube airs

I also need bondtech to get more lgx lite pros in stock

every time i want them they go out of stock and i have only managed to get 4

[molten dirge]

@frail adder @lucid kite is it worth it to scope creep again and go for kraken motors

😂

actually they won't work w z height

[hazy flame]

Are you running 24v?

There are very few good reasons to run krakens

[molten dirge]

48

[lucid kite]

No lol

Krakens, in my humble opinion, are a lot of smoke and not a lot else

[royal cairn]

are there any good comparisons, numbers or tests of the kraken motors anywhere?

[hazy flame]

You can look at the torque curve and where they fall off on stepper simulator

Krakens are in the database

[hazy flame]

Think of krakens as a slower and torquier ldo 2804. Just like the 2804 they get bad vfas over 36v

If some random idiot says that their 48v krakens don’t have vfas I doubt they will give you proof

Honestly they aren’t well suited for anything we are doing

[royal cairn]

2804 VFAs even on 24v.
can be sort of fixed with settings but still.

[lucid kite]

I dont think so but for the price of a single Kraken you could buy 4 long shaft omcs

[hazy flame]

krakens are really popular on this server because they are expensive

[molten dirge]

From people who are running them, thy all claim max 5-10% accel increase which does not seem like much

And I can’t run them anyways due to z height issues lol

[royal cairn]

omcs come h rated?

[molten dirge]

yup

https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/4pcs-nema-17-high-temp-stepper-motor-55ncm-77-93oz-in-55mm-round-shaft-insulation-class-h-180c-4-17hs19-2504s-h-v1

these are the motors i run

[royal cairn]

hard to beat that pricepoint 😅

[lucid kite]

Yea ofc

[molten dirge]

yeah they are THE recommended omcs i believe

[lucid kite]

Yep

[molten dirge]

si'm running them at 2A rn

want to run 2.5 but at high chamber temp that is probably not a good idea lol

unless i get heatsinks for them and put a fan on each of them

[molten dirge]

Gantry is off

TODO:

reassemble gantry with berserker bearings, replace right two motors, redo wiring, flip motors so they are on the bottom not the top, install carbonara with titanium hardware from kb3d, replace Y rails, install cartographer w @gentle bay umbilical, install hartk zbilical, install slm titanium monolith belt spacer

waiting on: carbonara insert parts printed in PC-ABS

[blazing stump]

twins

[molten dirge]

sick, which heat shield is yours

and what's the material

the magnets are here for the magdock, unfortunately the cowl & docks aren't yet

[molten dirge]

Completed carbonara

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite do you know if there are any CNC tensioners with a lot more room for tensioning?

[lucid kite]

for xy?

there is a pretension tool for monolith that you should use

[molten dirge]

for z

i hate that pretension tool lol

i have it printed of SLS and PC-CF, and both always break the teeth off no matter which direction i orient the print

unclear if i'm just trying to tension it so much haha

[lucid kite]

what what are you trying todo?

whatever your doing sounds wrong

#1294493140304269354 message anyways since i looked for it this is the xy pretension tool 😅

[molten dirge]

wdym

i just want a longer range z tensioner

so i can have really loose z belts, then tighten it a lot in one go

[molten dirge]

yes, I use it, it's extremely dependent on print quality / material and layer adhesion

if your settings are just a little bit wrong, you will rip all the teeth off that tool before you can tension it to anything high

[lucid kite]

it working fine for me, printed from asa

[molten dirge]

well maybe i'm running much more tension w/o meaning to lol

[lucid kite]

for z: what cnc tensioners? and why would you need so much tension for Z?

[lucid kite]

i wouldnt put it past ya

[molten dirge]

it's more that g2zxl is really hard to pass belts through

and for monolith with alignment spacers, sheet metal you have to pre-run all your z belts

so ideally i'd like a loose z belt that i slip on

then tension later w/o havcing to take off the pre-ran belt stoppers

mostly laziness

[molten dirge]

Well

Both front motor mounts redone

All rails cleaned and replaced and regreased

One of the XY joints redone

Other one and two rear motor mounts then gantry can go back on with carbonara

[molten dirge]

finished both xy joints yesterday & carbonara is mounted! Just have to be careful to get the belt paths right with reversed motors on the rear motor mounts now 😄

[molten dirge]

WOOT

@lucid kite my magdock parts are arriving tomorrow from Formlabs

i have to rebuild all 6toolheads from scratch and redo all wiring probably but this is still awesome 😄

[molten dirge]

Looks perfect

Magnets I got are imperial so a little smaller than the holes

So superglue works well

Like 0.04mm clearance so def not a press fit.

I got the thicknesses perfect though and it’s damn strong!

Maybe the holes could be like 0.1mm deeper in both lol

[molten dirge]

just one more rear motor mount to go before I have a completed gantry again! Noticing some very weird behavior though. When I push the rail, the extrusion moves.

Maybe my gantry isn't working because my extrusion is twisted or smth?

ok this mount is genuinely pissing me off. I'll assemble it tmr when i'm of sound mind

[molten dirge]

Gantry is done! mounting it will be a giant hassle

but regardless, gantry is moving extremely smooth now with carbonara.

turns out the rear motor mounts were too close together @lucid kite

[molten dirge]

gantry is reinstalled, but z belts are a nightmare as expected. Also missing one m5x20mm screw that i stripped

so far the z belts are on the gantry & tensioner, i'll have to take off and redo my g2zxls to be able to route the belts

[molten dirge]

All gantry issues resolved, video had rear mounts too far in

One CNC z tensioner needs m5x0.5 shim

Printer needs to be flipped and all wiring re- cleaned up so I can fit z biblical and redo g2zxl and fit the belts

while doing this I also need to flip the screen orientation lol

all stepper wiring needs to be redone as well

[molten dirge]

Flipped somehow. Upgrading PSUs as well

[molten dirge]

@gleaming cargo hey, just got your plate mount mod printed

https://www.printables.com/model/1382188-ebb36-wwg2-mount-w-spring-steel-slot-for-stealthch

what screws did you use to screw into the standoffs?

it seems weird otherwise, the screw holes are too small for socket head and don't fit button head either,

[gleaming cargo]

I just used BHCS screws, it could probably do with an update tbh

I just used the counterbore sizes on the original models

it’s kinda janked together but has been working for me

[molten dirge]

so are you just putting a washer or smth?

the bore size is 4.5mm

i don't think standard bhcs fits in that haha

@crystal niche

its finally working

6mag rbg

every toolhead needs to be rebuilt and rewired... sigh

[crystal niche]

heyy nice!!

put on some videos and get to work >:)

[molten dirge]

its 2am and i have a meeting

tmr morning

[crystal niche]

later >:)

[molten dirge]

i'm going to finish drilling away some of the powder holes in the docks, then calling it a night

wiring up these toolheads is always a nightmare. I have FOUR fans

like what made me decide to go with 4 fans

i must be stupid

[crystal niche]

4? what's the 4th

oh is that the thing on the toolboard

[crystal niche]

lol. I was going to do RGB, and wire my tach wire for the hotend fan. then later was like wow nevermind

not sure why, in that picture the wiring looks so messy compared to mine

[gleaming cargo]

no washers here

[molten dirge]

each toolhead has a barf + 2 neopixels, 4 fans, extruder, thermistor, heater, optotap, two filament runout sensors

[molten dirge]

really confused how you're screwing it in, any chance i could get a pic sometime if it's not too much of a hassle? 😄

[gleaming cargo]

ah I think I know whats going on, are you using heatset inserts?

I would snap a pic but it's printing rn

[crystal niche]

[molten dirge]

DAMMIT

thought i just finished 1 tool for good

nada. the barf leds broke

[molten dirge]

ok wow that's one tool back up and running fully

[molten dirge]

screen is flipped and klipperscreen rotated again 😄

now the Dell logo and text on boot appears properly

[molten dirge]

brio 4K online and in 4K

so the printer is upside down and that tool is hanging on for dear life

but overall 6mag clearly works

managed to setup all the z belts which is fire

waiting on some uhp 350s to arrive, new cable for the brio

need to rebuild so much of this

also waiting on fans from west3d (berserker vindr 3010) to rebuild the rest of the tools

[lucid kite]

ey nice!

[molten dirge]

ya 😄 so much better than 2 mag onto screw lol.

This is pretty good. Definitely worth the change

[lucid kite]

oh yea for sure

anthead for 4 magnets is awesome

super sturdy

[molten dirge]

unfortunately not having more of the 3010 fans in stock rn means i'm stuck waiting. for a while. to get any of the other tools built

[lucid kite]

can always just order a couple of them digikey and get some nice deltas

digikey my beloved

[molten dirge]

i like sunons much more

also well

[lucid kite]

sunons are pretty good as well yea

[molten dirge]

digikey has no fans 3010 at 24v so

i'm cooked either way 😂

[lucid kite]

rip but 12 or 5v should be doable as well?

[molten dirge]

too much work to wire on the ebb36 v1.2

i'm not on the gen 2 unfortunately

hey at least the gantry is fully mounted with all 4 Z!

[lucid kite]

pretty good!

[molten dirge]

and it's SMOOTH

[lucid kite]

il have my printed parts soon and can assemble my second toolhead tomorrow

[molten dirge]

which i thought was impossible for my shitty build

did you end up getting your sls backplate?

i'm gonna work on mounting the carto & zbilical, getting the steppers wired up next

[lucid kite]

i havnt ordered any yet

[molten dirge]

so i can have a moving homing gantry while I wait for the damn power supplies and fans toa rrive

[lucid kite]

both my fdm printed once are 'fine'. the t0 one is a lot better then the t1 backplate but still usable. but i havent toochanged yet so they might not be good enough, but we will see

[molten dirge]

gantry is tensioned 😄

if i can solder/ crimp up some new extension cables, get my pg7/pg9 glands& cable sheathing, I can actually get zbilical up and running and have a working gantry again!!!

[molten dirge]

welp

more scope creep time! Ordered kinematic bed mounts, berserker ultra-thick flex plates for carto, and some more

want the fysetc hex distro just for funsies

i'm happy with my current 24v distribution system using 2 BTT PCBs, but this looks cool too

ugh

[crystal niche]

why those 3010s?

I wished I got all gdstimes. they fit perfectly in the dragonburner

the berserkers are 29x30.5mm, if you put them in the 29mm side across, then the fan gets squished and the blades will scrape the sides. so you have to put them in the 30.5mm way across but then you need to sand it so it doesn't break the printed parts on the way in

[molten dirge]

14K rpm vs 12K rpm. Goliaths need it

haven't had a single issue with the dimensions, my slspa12 cowls don't seem to care.

[royal cairn]

the hexa distro is sweet 🙂
deletes u2c, buncha thermistor ports where you want them, and lets you toggle power to toolheads programatically.

[blazing stump]

forgot the name, originally saw it on instagram, its the same stuff as the normal heatshields, slm ti and a fiberglass sock beneath it

[steep yew]

I have one for my future toolchanger mod and was wondering the cases in which you would benefit from the switches

[royal cairn]

mostly maintenance sanity, but also if you have something else on there that runs off 24v and you want to shut it off.
and makes "hotplugging" a little safer since you can disable power before unplugging toolhead

[gleaming cargo]

Fysetc distro board saved my ass the other day - tried to remove a blob of death while the printer was running and shorted out the heater wires, caught a nice spark and the printer shut off immediately. I replaced the fuse in the distro board, swapped in another EBB and we were back up and running

not sure if the EBB is fried, I didn't test it after I replaced the fuse, but distro board did its job

[molten dirge]

i've simply learned to always turn the printer off

[molten dirge]

well

time to wait for a week for the new psus. Also figured out how to adjust my g2zxls so there's no binding when going up & down!

need to adjust dock spacing cos tools are for some ereason interfering with each other.

[molten dirge]

@tiny oxide hello! I'm trying to use your dual uhp din bracket, specifically the wagos as I ahve no questions for the other one

i'm confused on how the dual wago brackets are supposed to assemble. Heatset inserts?

[tiny oxide]

yes

[molten dirge]

@tiny oxide for the din rail mounts, heatsets there too? like one side is super thin, am i supposed to use low profile ones or standard vorons

[tiny oxide]

the heatsets are just used on the wago mount so you can attach the din mounts to it

[molten dirge]

Interesting, a normal 3x4x5 does not fit on the wago mount though. I did on the din rail mount and one of them is halfway through but still fits on the din rail well

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite

Well lol

Looks like ur ahead lmao

[molten dirge]

Fire

Might design a din rail micro mff mount as well, maybe some people will get a good use out of it

But yeah this orientation makes so much more sense.

That’s the 24V psu installed, waiting for the 48V

[lucid kite]

Well seams like it

[molten dirge]

wired up the 24v psu, since i don't even have the wagos this is all ic an do 😂

[molten dirge]

optiplex micro mount on din rails, using LRS psu M4 mounts 😄

very shitty design lol

[molten dirge]

My cleanest e bay attempt yet

Haven’t done the adhesive wire zip tie stuff yet

This will look amazing once done lol

the only thing that could change is the ssr position, it makes sense to put it in the way of the fan.

all fan directions must change as well to be push on all

will attract less dust while also blowing air onto the ufp printer & SSR

there's so much mesh here in the skirts that there's no point unifying airflow direction.

and the 48v ufp also needs some airflow on it lol

[molten dirge]

ufps and fans are here

a lot more prpogress to come soon!

[molten dirge]

Waiting for more printed parts (pcABS, all my printers r out of the count for the moment)

But the e-bay is shaping up to be really pretty!

Need some wago mounts for the bed to SSR/neutral wiring

But other than that the AC looks really clean and is complete. There’s one too short black wire there that’s pissing me off but I don’t have any left 🙁

[molten dirge]

Alright, all the berserker Vindr 3010 axials are here! Building up all 6 tools today, e-bay and gantry wiring will need to be compeltely redone but other than that we're looking good 😄

[molten dirge]

@frail adder @lucid kite i just found out goliaths don't come with thermal paste pre-applied to the heatbreak. RIP

all tools must come apart again

[lucid kite]

well that sucks 😅

[molten dirge]

@frail adder which thermal paste do you recommend for 300+c?

do you even run thermal paste?

if the surfaces are smooth, wouldn't eventual copper thermal expansion make it contact the aluminum really well?

we're using thermal paste on top of the heatbreak, so temps shouldn't matter right

tempted to use some mx-5 or 6

[lucid kite]

boron nitride

[molten dirge]

it's not recommended apparently

[lucid kite]

Thats what im using for my chube

[molten dirge]

do you even need thermal paste between the heat-break and the heatsink?

[hazy flame]

It is what is recommended for chube and slice hotends. I don’t know what else you would use that is readily available.

[molten dirge]

but yeah, why is boron nitride even needed for the heatbreak/heatsink transfer?

that's the cold side of the hotend, and ideally kept under 100C.

Wouldn't conventional PC thermal paste be perfect for this?

[hazy flame]

PC thermal pase is what I use for the part between the heatbrake and toolhead

[molten dirge]

oh that's how chubes work?

but yeah. for the goliath heatsink i can just use pc thermal paste

i am not unscrewing the heatbreak

[hazy flame]

Yeah it should be fine. It is a bimetal design so I would assume the heat wouldn't be insane

I assume you won't be printing at 400c or anything

[molten dirge]

haha fr

[hazy flame]

poor jakob still hasn't gotten his chubes even though he is way farther along than us lol

[molten dirge]

how many ohms am i supposed to read from the goliath...

is it bad if the nichrome is touching the titanium heat shield?

[hazy flame]

You should be fine with the nichrome but I have no idea with the ohms

it has that weird heater

The only fancy hotends I have ever used are chubes and I guess tricorn but I have not installed it on any printers

[molten dirge]

if short is no problem from nichrome to main body / titanium shield, then we're good

urgh, i misplaced the pt1000 somehow

[hazy flame]

Yeah the thermal conductivity of titanium is super low

[frail adder]

I do not

[molten dirge]

sure sounds like i'm not taking the tools apart then @frail adder thanks! 😄

[molten dirge]

rip

@lucid kite

UHP i got from west3d just went full pop

[crystal niche]

Whaa really?

[molten dirge]

yup. No clue what's wrong

didn't fry anything with it it seems?

[frail adder]

Whatcha mean? Like blew itself? That’s very strange

[hazy flame]

Yeah in 20k hours of printing i have never had a single printer psu die

[frail adder]

Yea. I’m curious if it didn’t go pop but something done the line did and the psu just shut off to protect itself.

[hazy flame]

I had my bosch washing machine psu die 4 times

[frail adder]

Was it a Meanwell?

[hazy flame]

Eventually i got pissed off and replaced it with GE and I have not had any issues since

[hazy flame]

It was a custom board

[frail adder]

Well that’s why.

[hazy flame]

One capacitor would always die

[molten dirge]

nope. plugging it directly into a wall shows no green light, no voltage. Def popped

strong burned smell from it too

[frail adder]

Wild.

[molten dirge]

first boot as well. Check out in #west3d-🇺🇸-🌐-🌎-🌍

no wiring issues i can see at all.

[frail adder]

Did you pull the psu out and bench test it?

[molten dirge]

ofc.

It's dead dead.

again, strong burning smell coming from it 😉

i'd love to know if there's a fuse or smth i can replace, but first look shows it might be potted so doubt it.

[royal cairn]

slice boron nitride 🐢

[royal cairn]

bn paste dissolves in water.

[steep yew]

Ah really, good to know. There's the gd900 thermal grease you always get when buying hotend parts from aliexpress, hardens after a while but I wouldn't use it for heatsinks honestly

[royal cairn]

looking some specs and tds..

gd900 doesn't seem even remotely suitable for hotends.
gd900 has < 1/6th thermal conductivity, and is max 392degF (~200degC).

boron nitride tds claims it's good for 850degC.

[steep yew]

Go tell that to the aliexpress sellers 😅

[royal cairn]

hehe, we could let them know that they can probably claim 5mm³/s more if they peddle bn instead 🤣

[steep yew]

The question would be if it will hinder performance compared to nothing

[royal cairn]

question if thermal compound makes a diff?

[steep yew]

If gd900 worsens performance compared to not using anything

[crystal niche]

it can't be worse than air imo

idk I use it, it came with my tz v6

[royal cairn]

i wouldn't run it without anything.
but the better thermal conductor will be an improvement either way.

[molten dirge]

did some analysis on my failed psu

managed to disassemble and get rid of the sealed coating in the power inlet, found the inlet fuse. It's unfortunately still good

[molten dirge]

@gleaming cargo https://www.printables.com/model/1382188-ebb36-wwg2-mount-w-spring-steel-slot-for-stealthch/files

i finally ygot these to work as intended!

first i have a 3 point mounting system now, added 1mm of shims to Tetsu's 3 point mounting system long spacer.

i'm using misumi's small head SHCS screws to fully screw in the short standoffs, then a normal bhcs to screw the long standoff

then i drilled out the heatset insert hole to 4.5mm with a drill, then put heatset inserts on the top (where the board mounts) instead of the bottom.

Then I used 5mm+5 m3 standoffs to secure the actual ebb36, then just using m3 screws to screw the fan cover onto the ebb36 stnadoffs

this works really well and the 3 point moutning syhstem is incredibly rigid.

[gleaming cargo]

that's awesome news mate, good stuff. one of these days I'll make some mods to the file so it works better for everyone

[molten dirge]

i had to get creative as i printed them out of sls pa12 before even testing them out haha

absolutely best wwg2 ebb36 mount yet!

If you do mod it in the future @gleaming cargo just expand the mounting point holes so it takes a standard SHCS screw, and put the heatset insert moutning points on the top of the mount, not the bottom.

[gleaming cargo]

absolutely will do, you've done the hard part for me haha

[molten dirge]

heck since i want a few more printed

let me make that mod now haha

also ur AWESOME for including a sldprt

mods done! I removed the rear support bracket tho cos it just messes with sls pa12

@gleaming cargo

you can absolutely add it to your page 😄

[gleaming cargo]

that’s great man, I appreciate the assist!

[molten dirge]

thank you for such an awesome bracket 🙂

sorry, it's a sldprt*** i uploaded the wrong file like an idiot

[molten dirge]

the warp actually helps w solid mounting. Needed a vice grip to help it set but now it's perfect and holds it with like 10+lbs of clutch force

finally my micro MFF is fully mounted 😄

e-bay rebuild for the 3rd week now 😭

extremely happy with this mount, i think noone else has designed one of these cos everyone just sticks with rPis and other SBCs for their vorons lol

this lets me run multiple 4K usb webcams and never have a CAN dropout even with Klipper's impl with 7 CAN MCUs 😂

[molten dirge]

Cleanest e bay yet!!!

Only missing some data cables, gantry steppers, two psu replacements, and that’s it

[molten dirge]

@frail adder

Goliath nozzles seem shorter than standard v6. Will it leak if i use standard v6 nozzles? Undertaker West3Ds or Duro nozzles good?

[frail adder]

I’ve only ever used standard v6 nozzles. 🤷

I’ve used undertakers. Personally. I think they are better for 30³ flow and less. They don’t handle high flow well.

[molten dirge]

any abrasives rated high-flow v6 nozzles you recommend? @frail adder

[frail adder]

I don’t print enough abrasives to care. 😅

[worn bolt]

All tc v6 nozzles are high flow with chube compact

[molten dirge]

Printer online! First time since full e_bay redesign 🙂

Ignore the SSR wiring that’s totally not disconnected and live

Will fix those with wago 2 pins soon, just need to flash usb on kraken and katapult on hex’s

[molten dirge]

Ok flashed the kraken back to usb and setup the Hexa distribution board! Idk where the termination resistors should go now lol

[hazy flame]

I love the wagos

[hazy flame]

With abrasives a good nozzle doesn't matter as much. Just get a crappy tc nozzle or something. If you want the best for abrasives I would get purple nozzles

[molten dirge]

well, the fysetc hexa distro is wired up and working. 1 tool test shows printer finally turning on. Issue:

It’s working and online! Rock stable

first impressions with the fysetc hexa distro fusion is really good

[molten dirge]

the main issue was it was just losing connection thanks to a shitty usb cable

[molten dirge]

@frail adder so i got the 1mm thick berserker plate

Carto doesn't see the smco magnets at all anymore. 😂

it has a smooth side and a pei side, it will probs work for u

[frail adder]

I use smooth steel. Lol. 0.8mm thick. I prefer it honestly over pei.

[molten dirge]

yeah but i thought the mags still show up?

[frail adder]

Yes but that’s a carto thing. You have layers of pei which help further the plate from the magnets. I don’t. Plate is metal on magnets. Lol.

[molten dirge]

yeah, but like it's bare sided on one side and pei on the other, and the steel sheet itself is 1mm

including the pei texturing on one side it's more like 1.1-1.2

mandala recommends 1mm minimum sheet thickness for carto

[frail adder]

Ah. Well. The blank steel is still cheaper anyways. 😆

[molten dirge]

like does it really matter esp since u have it all calibrated? No

but it's more peace of mind haha and it works great

i'm tempted to get the much stronger countersunk magnets now and see if it also doesn't show up

[frail adder]

Magbeds come with the neodymium though…

[molten dirge]

remember i replaced my mags with the weaker SMCOs from roseworks

[frail adder]

Yea. But you don’t have to get the magnets. You can just swap them back in. Lol.

[molten dirge]

nah i used them in my greenhouse then they ended up rusting 😂

tho i genuinely don't think more clutch power is needed

the back side is bare steel, no need for more lol

ok i genuinely need to figure out this belt tracking problem.

It's chasing me around on every voron i build.

[frail adder]

Buy closed loop EPDM from KB-3D?

[royal cairn]

with non-closed loop (spiral-cut) the teeth are at an angle, if you have bzi you can skew the idler a bit to get it to track straight.
with cnc or stock you can't really fix it 100% without going closed loop (straight-cut) belts..

[molten dirge]

well i don't mind 100% fix. i just don't like that it starts rubbing against the idlers

[molten dirge]

wait so

if you get closed loop belts then just cut them

does it work?

[worn bolt]

Thats how people use the closed loops, yes. Not like 2.4 z drives where you actually keep it a loop

[molten dirge]

Damn, ok!

[frail adder]

Yep. You cut the belt to make it a not closed belt and use it like normal.

[molten dirge]

Awesome.

Definitely trying this!

[hazy flame]

@molten dirge Would you be interested in testing my toolhead here after I get the rest of the stuff put together?

I am still working on dock design and tuning in center of mass

I can probably do a goliath version pretty easily

It uses 2 of the 130k rpm scarecrow fans

[molten dirge]

100%

i'll ofc try it, goliath version should be nice.

looks and sounds awesome. maybe you can put the motor further back for center of gravity?

[hazy flame]

I will start work on that and a chube compact version

[hazy flame]

I really can't. This is about as slim as it goes for a toolchanger

[molten dirge]

dual cpap is crazy btw 😂

[hazy flame]

it isn't cpap

[molten dirge]

whatttttt

[hazy flame]

it is brushless 130k rpm turbines

[molten dirge]

geez ok

😂

yeah i'll test it 100%

can't believe it's stealthchangeable

[hazy flame]

I will do only 1 turbine for the chube compact version but I think I will need 2 for the goliath version to offset the center of mass

this is the only part that stealthchanges

This is the fan part

I would like to make the chube compact/goliath versions printed on the backplate side to cut down on slm cost for printing 6 tools

Fans

[molten dirge]

is carto compatibility included in that?

like that looks like the FYSETC shuttle

idk if that's ldo or fysetc but

it looks like it'd block all carto

[molten dirge]

ooooh ok

so that's the full shuttle?

[hazy flame]

It is monolith only

the actual shuttle release is 9x stiffer than the ldo shuttle which is the stiffest shuttle on the market right now

[hazy flame]

yeah

I hate the cnc shuttles that are on the market right now

they are super flexy

[molten dirge]

awesomeeeee

so that's the full shuttle

we can just slm print it or smth and drop it in place

[hazy flame]

yeah slm print

[molten dirge]

is it a single piece print? if so putting it on the carriage would be a giant pain with monolith sheet metal, have to take off the carbonara beam every time

[hazy flame]

yeah but I am changing the non chube ones to have a removable sheet metal top part

this particular one is one piece for now unless I find a better way to fit it

chube is so fat that it makes parts of the toolhead pretty thin

[lucid kite]

one piece will likely be the best option either way

screws just kinda suck

[hazy flame]

Obviously but qol is also a factor

[lucid kite]

for sure

[hazy flame]

nobody wants to dissamble their whole gantry to remove a toolhead

[lucid kite]

gotta love the experience of stripping soft threads in slm alu 😆

[hazy flame]

Yes lol

[lucid kite]

but yea having to dissamble the gantry would suck .. but so be it

[molten dirge]

i'm gonna do slm titanium probably, lemme konw if you want to test it as well and ill get it +1.

granted ur in the EU so shipping probably would be hard

[molten dirge]

oh for sure

make it helicoil threaded

replace the slm threads with helicoils in assembly and you will never have a problem

[lucid kite]

yea shipping would suck

but im sticking to antheads for now

but if that toolhead becomes an actuall good thing il for sure gonna switch

[hazy flame]

I am in america

Poor jakob is in eu 🙁

@molten dirge @lucid kite You can also fit quite a few tools

6 on awd and 7 on 2wd

lot of space to spare on both

[lucid kite]

damnnn

but 5 is max for me .. cause im not buying more chube compacts 😆

[hazy flame]

You could have 7 tools lmao

[hazy flame]

tz v6 on the last 2 lol

with seven tools it is like a really really expensive indx lol

[lucid kite]

yea lmao

like a really really expensive one

[hazy flame]

indx is 400 usd

between you, mikeymike, appri and me

we are leading the charge for wasting money

[lucid kite]

yes

well not wasting

id say investing in our hobby

[hazy flame]

strategically disposing of

[hazy flame]

yes lol

[lucid kite]

my personal stock market 😆

[hazy flame]

Is there an integration docs/model for chube compact?

as well as goliath?

[lucid kite]

i think luke published the chube compact outer hull somewhere for sure

[hazy flame]

I will ask him on monday

[molten dirge]

lol ok that's wild

on a 350 how many?

like 6 goliaths is enough for me but I do have a 7th goliath

that was meant to go into v2.7390

[molten dirge]

i'd say my printer is definitely the lead money waster here

i'm the only one not running a raspberry pi lol

i made a fysetc hexa distro fusion toolchanger backpack base btw

[hazy flame]

Idk i spent 1.7k or something on glass and i have 7 Chube conducts

It is definitely close though

In dumbness

[molten dirge]

lol, i've bought 3 beds for this thing

5 plates

and look

[hazy flame]

Why…

[molten dirge]

you can't beat SLS PA12 stupidity

[molten dirge]

well cheaper to expensive, currently chilling with mandala roseworks

Remember that most of my 3d printed parts are SLS PA12 😂

all my toolheads are exclusively SLS PA12

[hazy flame]

I just said screw it and spent 350 on a yura bed

[molten dirge]

link?

time to upgrade

[hazy flame]

All my stuff is cnc and i have 1 inch aluminum plates

[molten dirge]

1 INCH???

i mean tho have u seen my printer

it's 2 voron frames stacked on top of each other

and all of that required panels

[hazy flame]

The preorder is done and idk when the next ones will come

[molten dirge]

ok but 1 inch is genuinely crazy LOL

[hazy flame]

Yeah I have a lot of metal from 40 years of collecting stuff as companies sold out

[molten dirge]

well that didn't cost you then! 😂

[hazy flame]

I have a whole pallet of 8080 and 4080 extrusions

[molten dirge]

but yeah even my DOOR BUFFERs are SLS PA12 😂 they warped, they suck

granted i didn't pay for them

[hazy flame]

Like 200 a plate from a friend. But realistically 1200 per plate if i were to get them from my commercial supplier

[hazy flame]

Yeah that is just crazy

[hazy flame]

My poor tacoma did not like 1200 lbs of aluminum in the bed

Since it is mic6 I think I can get away with direct mount to the frame

[hazy flame]

How much did you spend on all of the sls stuff?

It had to have been a ton considering you even did door buffers

SLS looks so nice. I would love to do everything in sls but it creeps and is expensive

I have easy access to all types of cnc machines and I have thousands of pounds of scrap stock in my garage

so cnc is just easier

and cheaper

but between us 4 these are probably in the top 50 most expensive printers on this server

[molten dirge]

SLS PA12 creeping is a myth btw

just don't use it on the gantry motor mounts and you will be fine.

[hazy flame]

I am trying to think what I would use it for

maybe docks

[molten dirge]

i've had REALLY good luck with SLS backplates for tools

[hazy flame]

but I have a shit ton of aluminum I can use

[molten dirge]

you CNCing everything is just awesome ngl

[hazy flame]

yeah it is more accurate

[molten dirge]

but yeah let me know how the toolhead goes! I'd love a 2-part slm goliath

[molten dirge]

for sure, never had to do ANY of the stealthchanger tricks while Jakob was suffering

[hazy flame]

I am going to see if I can use sleeve bushings for the shuttle

if I can't source ones that work I will have to make it a bit thicker for brass flanged bushings which are nicer but worse for packaging

[hazy flame]

I am really really hoping that 4x5.5x5.5 steel bushing will work

that would be so nice because of thermal expansion and packaging

but the only way to know if they are good enough tolerance wise is to order them

[heady holly]

Wait. If you use a thick enough build plate, Eddy probes might not see bed magnets that are used in some ultra flat magnetic beds (i.e. Mandala Rosework's Mag bed)?

[molten dirge]

yes

that's what they recommend

minimum 1mm steel, and that's what i'm using and it seems to work.

if you put a magsheet on top of the magbed it works even better, but then you lose out on the flatness gains

[heady holly]

I am now resisting the urge to say the three most expensive words in the world: "might as well"

But I'm already in the middle of a completely separate "might as well" already

A project to replace my Voron Tap with a Beacon Probe has spiralled into a complete redesign of my electronics bay and custom designing my own 3x USB umbilical. Because I kept saying "might as well"

I'll save the bed upgrade for another day

[molten dirge]

you're talking to the wrong group of people my guy

@lucid kite @hazy flame and me are building the scope creep printers

i've been in scope creep for 2 years

and currently in the middle of a full e-bay redesign LOL justl ike you

[lucid kite]

😆

im not scope creeping .. i dont really have a scope to beginn with

what happens happens

[molten dirge]

ooh @lucid kite i finished running the wires! Need to somehow figure out colors for the 8 pin gantry wiring now tho

[lucid kite]

ive only got space for 2 printers and way to much disposable income so i might as well

[molten dirge]

haha feel that

i only have the circuit to drive 2 printers too

but yeah i just finished wiring all the fans again 😄

everything except the ufp fan.. bec i need a spare temp sensor.

niceeee

all new temp sensors and fans are done! just need to do the damn stepper wiring now and technically the printer is fully wired (except the hexa distro fusion and all the tools.. but we ignore that)

This is definitely the cleanest build I’ve ever done! Every wire is in place, only gantry steppers left to go!

the new e-bay means the ssr gets a fan directly pointing at it, and the ufp gets some decent cooling. All AC wiring is constrained to this small section of the e-bay which is really nice imo

[lucid kite]

looks usable 😆

[molten dirge]

compared to my previous wiring.. i think i can #request_help this if needed.

Anyways, gotta run the stepper wiring, take the belts off the gantry, replace with kb3d closed loop gt2 epdm 9mm, then pray everything works 😂

[lucid kite]

jokes aside without race ways its pretty good

[heady holly]

Oh, make no mistake. I'm going to do this upgrade now. I just didn't think that I could while using an eddy current probe. I'm just going to prioritize getting my current round of redesigns installed, first, then the bed upgrades

[molten dirge]

what race ways?

*what are

Ok, so current todos

[lucid kite]

the cable duct thingies

[molten dirge]

Wire 2x stepper 8 pin cables in E-Bay
Drill new pg7 gland hole for Carto umbilical, or mount on gantry using ZBilical PG7 gland.
Disassemble CNC G2ZXL, make sure all grubs are tight, align everything via loosening belt tension & g2zxl motor screws before running Z movement up/down 10x, making sure nothing is making popping sounds.
Install Sexball Probe & Wire
Mount nozzle cleaner

Wire gantry stepper wiring, 2x 8 pin labeled.
Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
Reassemble t1-t5, magdock parts & goliath titanium/fiberglass heat shields
Full functionality check on t0-t5
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels```

[hazy flame]

I really want to try and do a fully printed raceway with all of the wire lengths in cad

[lucid kite]

should be doable with petg or hard tpu

just needs to a be a plastic that can flex a bit without breaking .. so no abs/asa

[hazy flame]

I was thinking to just make the slots hard and just put them in the right places

If all of the wires are in cad it shouldn’t be an issue

[lucid kite]

yea id still use less rigid materials to print it from

[hazy flame]

Yeah that would make sense

Maybe that bambu tpu for ams

Where it is less squishy than normal tpu

[lucid kite]

Yea very hard tpu would do very well

[molten dirge]

Ohh i never get the need for those

IMO they just make replacing cables hard for no reason

Adhesive reusable cable ties like I used are much better

[molten dirge]

https://teamgloomy.github.io/btt_kraken_h723_pins.html

where should i plug in the sexbolt?

seems like PC0

its' so st upid that the motor diag pin is the same as the endstop pin

but ig i'll be fine if i odn't use the ones i'm using for sensorless lol

[lucid kite]

Simple endstop port

[molten dirge]

btt in their infinite wisdom decided to make diag share sensor ports with the endstop ports so i was wondering

but yeah sexball is 2 pin right

[molten dirge]

well my sexball SUCKS

the m3 pin has a friggin groove on the bottom like why

[molten dirge]

Drill new pg7 gland hole for Carto umbilical, or mount on gantry using ZBilical PG7 gland.
Disassemble CNC G2ZXL, make sure all grubs are tight, align everything via loosening belt tension & g2zxl motor screws before running Z movement up/down 10x, making sure nothing is making popping sounds.
Install Sexball Probe & Wire
Mount nozzle cleaner

Wire gantry stepper wiring, 2x 8 pin labeled.
Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
Reassemble t1-t5, magdock parts & goliath titanium/fiberglass heat shields
Full functionality check on t0-t5
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels```

well, the stepper wiring will be interesting

white red orange blue black green yellow brown

obv i'll do red black yellow white for S0 & S2, the other colors will be a nightmare to wire up

[frail adder]

That’s better than what I was working with for a v0 umbilical.

[molten dirge]

is that a frigging ATX connector? 😂

or is that molex microfit like normal

[frail adder]

MF3.0. Standard v0 umbilical

[molten dirge]

also are there any hartk zbilical mods for bigger than pg9? or shoudl i just not wire my usb c through the umbilical / sleeving

[frail adder]

The 3 extra wires are for LEDs as the not smart v0 umbilical pcb doesn’t have a spot for those.

[molten dirge]

does anyone sell pre-assembled umbilical CAN cables

lol

[frail adder]

Check with #kb3d-🇺🇸

[molten dirge]

making some Z cable mounts

gonna maximize every mm i have

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite

What do you think?

i think it should work to really cinch down the Z cable loom

better than not having anything / just zip ties for sure 😂

[molten dirge]

new extremely simple Z cable holder design.

works in both orientations for mounting to bed extrusions & gantry extrusions

[molten dirge]

well shit.

fucked up hole spacing on fysetc distro fusion mount, and also the cables are wayyyy too short now.

i don't want to have to do some extendo fuckery... hm

[molten dirge]

yay

gantry wiring is done and connected!

i think i screwed up the wiring a TAD but just had to flip dir pins and now i have fully homing gantry (- Z cos carto not mounted)

very happy

@lucid kite are you getting a humming sound from BTT Kraken motors at all?

Drill new pg7 gland hole for Carto umbilical, or mount on gantry using ZBilical PG7 gland.
Disassemble CNC G2ZXL, make sure all grubs are tight, align everything via loosening belt tension & g2zxl motor screws before running Z movement up/down 10x, making sure nothing is making popping sounds.
Install Sexball Probe & Wire
Mount nozzle cleaner

Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
AWD sync using grub screw method. Try klipper motor-sync module later
Reassemble t1-t5, magdock parts & goliath titanium/fiberglass heat shields
Full functionality check on t0-t5
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels```

We have a moving gantry again omg this has been so long coming

can't wait to retune g2zxl and mount carto so i have an actually functional gantry!

[lucid kite]

Im not using krakens

[molten dirge]

oh shit i forgot, mb

[lucid kite]

Im using actually good motors 🤣 /j

[frail adder]

Krakens aren’t made by btt. They are LDO. And if sitting idle that is normal stepper sounds.

[molten dirge]

btt kraken + motors

😂

i'm using omc 2504Hs

[frail adder]

Ah. Well. You said it badly.

Either way. Normal sounds when sitting idle.

[molten dirge]

kk! 🙂

[molten dirge]

i think one more USB extender cable and the e-bay is ACTUALLY complete. Cartographer disconnected right now

ofc more cable management needed for the gantry wiring but i ignore that.

that means I can finally flip the printer back over

Disassemble CNC G2ZXL, make sure all grubs are tight, align everything via loosening belt tension & g2zxl motor screws before running Z movement up/down 10x, making sure nothing is making popping sounds.
Install Sexball Probe
Mount nozzle cleaner

Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
AWD sync using grub screw method. Try klipper motor-sync module later
Reassemble t1-t5, magdock parts & goliath titanium/fiberglass heat shields
Reprint all tool magdock nozzle cleaner mounts, and actually connect the ptfe tubes. Maybe look for a bambu style nozzle cleaner brush mount.
Full functionality check on t0-t5
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels```

[molten dirge]

@gleaming cargo it’s here

i'm so excited! these are the IDEAL wwg2 ebb36 mounts imo

[molten dirge]

@frail adder

titanium fiberglass goliath.

no filament being pushed but needs 40% just to stay at temp with the part cooling fans on

is this bad? also feels like the titanium heat shield isn't doing anything, as the temp of the heat shield is hot enough to burn me

smth feels really off.

i assume this will be better in a 60C+ chamber, but still feels off.

bad fiberglass?

[hazy flame]

Where did you order your titanium shields? They might have used a weird alloy.

[molten dirge]

in3dtec, i think it's normal titanium.

others have placed on in3dtec and gotten just fine results

i'm getting a USB C thermal cam to hopefully check.

[hazy flame]

it should still get hot enough to burn you. Just because titanium has a low thermal conductivity doesn't mean it won't get hot

[molten dirge]

ok, but needing 70% on a GOLIATH to just keep warm at 270C makes no sense, even if it's at idle temps and not heated chamber.

part cooling fans are really fast, but this is bad. You'd expect like 20% usage max

[hazy flame]

Yeah idk I have never run goliath but I have heard you need a shit ton of cooling for them

that is why people use the little 2510 berserker fans

[molten dirge]

fr. I think the sock is not performing great and i have no clue why. Maybe I cut it a bit too short?

[molten dirge]

i use 3010 berserker to cool the heatsink yeah

but my point here is mostly that the goliath is needing 70% power draw just to keep warm at idle temp, part fans on, w/o filament being pushed

so it's going to have shit flow rate overall

and the only thing i can think of is the sock being bad

[hazy flame]

the part cooling fans shouldn't make the hotend any cooler, if anything they could be overcooling the hotend and causing heat issues

do you have a picture of your duct angle?

[gleaming cargo]

that’s awesome, didn’t realise you were doing SLM for them

[hazy flame]

why would you expect anything less from appri at this point lol

[molten dirge]

sls* but yeah!

[molten dirge]

@frail adder you on? 🙂

the heat shield is not working 😭

[frail adder]

Whatchu mean not working?

[molten dirge]

in short, outside of heatshield gets to over 80C at 270C.

Goliath is using over 70% power just to keep the hotend at 270C when part cooling fans are on, cannot get any decent flow rate through it

[frail adder]

Well the first part…. That’s normal. Have you ever temped the outside of a silicone sock? Lol.

The second part. I’ll have to check what mines at but I’ve never had an issue even at 60³ flow and 270c.

If I could find the stupid anti vibration foot for my X1C I could start getting printers powered on.

You have the glass fiber installed right?

[molten dirge]

ye

idk if it's just a case of bad fiber

[frail adder]

Pic?

[molten dirge]

@frail adder

[frail adder]

Is that titanium?

[molten dirge]

yup

[frail adder]

Looks lighter than mine…

[molten dirge]

mine's from in3dtec

how many grams does urs weigh?

[frail adder]

Hmmmm. No clue. Never weighed it.

[molten dirge]

i think it's def titanium

i think the fiberglass might just not be long enough or smth?

[frail adder]

I mean. It looks fine to me.

[molten dirge]

ok maybe it's just a chamber temp thing and it'll do better once it's inside a heated chamber then

[frail adder]

Hold just a minute. Heating mine to 260c.

[molten dirge]

really hope i don't have to disassemble my just-finished 3 toolheads.. sigh

[frail adder]

Maintains 260c in a cold chamber at 40% power.

[molten dirge]

ok so my heat shield IS bad

is that with all part cooling fans on>?

[frail adder]

No. But…

while printing

[molten dirge]

oh interesting

ok 40% w/o part cooling fans for 260 is also close tow hat i'm seeing

also dpeneds on tool to tool so i think some tools just have a worse fiberglass job

[molten dirge]

cool, 3 workin tools! just waiting on a FEW more printed parts to get the carto umbilical wired up then i should be getting some single tool prints going 🙂

[frail adder]

If the Goliath can keep up. (I suppose I’ll link you my glass fiber I used. https://a.co/d/0hMVc1lm Just know it’s off gassing something and changing colors)

[molten dirge]

same one as me i'm just using the black one

[frail adder]

Odd

[molten dirge]

3 tools fully docked :d

Disassemble CNC G2ZXL, make sure all grubs are tight, align everything via loosening belt tension & g2zxl motor screws before running Z movement up/down 10x, making sure nothing is making popping sounds.
Install Kinematic Bed Mount
Mount nozzle cleaner

Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
AWD sync using grub screw method. Try klipper motor-sync module later
Reassemble t1-t5, magdock parts & goliath titanium/fiberglass heat shields
Reprint all tool magdock nozzle cleaner mounts, and actually connect the ptfe tubes. Maybe look for a bambu style nozzle cleaner brush mount.
Full functionality check on t0-t5
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels```

procrastinating on that entire top section

[hazy flame]

@molten dirge What size are the heatbrake screws on goliath?

[molten dirge]

no clue which screws those are

assuming the 3 m2 heatsink screws?

[hazy flame]

yeah

[hazy flame]

How much can the thermistor bend?

this is my goliath conduct version

[molten dirge]

significantly

over 180 degrees with 5mm bend radius for sure

[hazy flame]

\

I have a shit ton of space

[molten dirge]

that's nothing

and damn man

that hotend looks sick, smth along VZBot lines

currently working on the 4th tool. Ready to test, but the rear wiring isn't connected

also all the spring steel needs to be redone for every toolhead. PAIN

[hazy flame]

What extruder do you want me to add to this toolhead?

[hazy flame]

I will have to do a bunch of center of mass stuff so it will take a while

[molten dirge]

WWG2 would be the ideal one for me

[hazy flame]

this thing is looking awesome

[molten dirge]

Single gear drive extruders >>> and WWG2 has the least VFAs from what I can tell

[molten dirge]

thanks! the printer is upside down still rn so it makes the printer look weird

[hazy flame]

wwg2 is my favorite alongside lgx lite pro

[molten dirge]

rocking WWG2 DualFS. DualFS part was really hard to nail down ngl

even with SLS PA12 the tolerances are really tight. Some mods on printables now that improves it tho

[hazy flame]

Do you use the one with the long handle or the short one?

[molten dirge]

handle as in manual extruder rotating? I think it's short?

here's an old one

[hazy flame]

oh ok short

[molten dirge]

i use the one from tetsu's github

[molten dirge]

this one still needs the new stealthchanger ebb36 mount (holy shit i love that mount thanks tooks)

and the magdock cowl replaced

building up these tools take FOREVER ngl

even just rebuilding the tools w/o touching the extruder takes forever

[hazy flame]

There is one major issue with wwg2 though. Its center of mass is in a wild spot

[molten dirge]

indeed

[hazy flame]

it is really badly balanced

[molten dirge]

well kind-of?

with existing designs, it pushes the motor weight back by a lot

so the motor is actually over the gantry beam which is technically not bad

balances out the rest of the toolhead pretty well

[hazy flame]

I mean on the x axis

[molten dirge]

oh, it's not centered yeah

[hazy flame]

I will try my best

[molten dirge]

yeah.. it's off center which sucks, G2SA is too

I have faith!

[hazy flame]

yes lol

at least I originally designed with lgx lite so this hog of an extruder won't be an issue weight wise

[molten dirge]

haha sls pa12 is not helping the weight argument in my case

i'm tempted to slm some of these parts too

1 year in the future**

[hazy flame]

I wouldn't slm an extruder

[molten dirge]

common sense tells me not to

[hazy flame]

we saw how that worked out for burgo and for sherpa v1/v2 cnc

[molten dirge]

what were the issues with sherpa cnc again?

i run CNC CW2 rn (partial) and it is pretty dogshit on v2.7390

[hazy flame]

Major heat conduction into the filament

basically unable to print petg or pla

unless you ran a super low motor current

[molten dirge]

ahh, makes sense

[hazy flame]

Well I might have to design a g2 repack because this is bad. there is absulutely no way for me to fit it without moving the extruder up like 12mm

[molten dirge]

Darn

that's more SLS parts for me!

[hazy flame]

it is hard to move the filament path on that thing

i am not a fan of the planetary gearbox on wwg2 but it definitely works well

[molten dirge]

4 tools fully online, all heating & all fans working!

will do a double check on all FS sensors down the line

ugh doing so much procrastination on actually fixing CNC G2ZXL issues 😂

[molten dirge]

5 tools complete!

need to check it then i can finally start working on t6. for the first time in years

in the history of the build this might be the first time I have 6 tools built 😮

[molten dirge]

5 tools!!!!

so excited for 6th

all dock and align very well and hold themselves upside down / some vibration

this is so great

the usb extender is on the way, i have to drill 3 more holes in the bottom plate to connect the hinge permanently then i'm clear to flip the printer upside down

(after tuning g2zxl and shortening sexball wires ofc)

[violet oasis]

surely, your mean upside up, or downside down? 😆

[molten dirge]

😂 i suppose it is upside down right now

[molten dirge]

Install Kinematic Bed Mount
Mount nozzle cleaner

Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
AWD sync using grub screw method. Try klipper motor-sync module later
Reassemble t1-t5, magdock parts & goliath titanium/fiberglass heat shields
Reprint all tool magdock nozzle cleaner mounts, and actually connect the ptfe tubes. Maybe look for a bambu style nozzle cleaner brush mount.
Full functionality check on t0-t5
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels
Clean up CANBUS wiring so i don't get random disconnections

[molten dirge]

It’s back upright!!!

[lucid kite]

what a machine 😆

[molten dirge]

so hard to maneuver 😭

[crystal niche]

its a monolith

[lucid kite]

gotta put leveling casters on that monster

[molten dirge]

tempted but i'm hoping to never have to tip it over again

[molten dirge]

lol

[lucid kite]

dont think it will

[molten dirge]

no i mean i don't want to lift it up 😂

also it's using the g2zxl feet, so would have to design smth to fit that and i'm lazy

[lucid kite]

ah yeaaa i feel ya

[molten dirge]

i think i managed to tune the g2zxl issues, so once carto is re-installed i'll test and bake qgl again

[lucid kite]

i could not lift #1317580899184807976 up even if i wanted to

im just gonna use the two toolheads i have and play for them for now

looks like chube compact wont be comming for a couple of weeks possibly months

[molten dirge]

i didn't realize tridentbert was also sheet metal monolith

[lucid kite]

for now yes

[molten dirge]

also damn, back when i first did my marathon on Froron it was like the first or second ever monolith sheet metal rc1

now it's everywhere

[lucid kite]

but il convert it to monolith cnc once i can get a kit

and also gonna give that machine a metric tone of tlc cause it sure needs it lmao

[molten dirge]

why tho? sheet metal should be just as good as monolith cnc

[lucid kite]

na aligning sheetmetal is a pain and a half

[molten dirge]

Install Kinematic Bed Mount
Mount nozzle cleaner
Figure out Z umbilical mount so i get full range of motion with super thick cable...

Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
AWD sync using grub screw method. Try klipper motor-sync module later
Reassemble t1-t5, magdock parts & goliath titanium/fiberglass heat shields
Reprint all tool magdock nozzle cleaner mounts, and actually connect the ptfe tubes. Maybe look for a bambu style nozzle cleaner brush mount.
Full functionality check on t0-t5
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels
Clean up CANBUS wiring so i don't get random disconnections```

[molten dirge]

oh it was for sure earlier

i managed to fix it by using the original alignment spacers again (back when rc1 was first announced)

at the downside of having to pre-run the Z belts before installing in the printer (aka disassemble the Z tensioners and g2zxl post-install)

[lucid kite]

yea but that will never be as perfect with cnc parts with actuall indexing slots 😅

[molten dirge]

it's actually extremely well toleranced

without it, i had nightmare alignment and racking issues

with it it took 10 minutes to derack and figure out all gantry issues

idk, i just don't think it's a worthy upgrade if you run sheet metal already

[lucid kite]

assuming you can allign the top and bottom part

cnc has indexing features that leave no play what so ever

[hazy flame]

Did you see mikeymike’s toolhead that he posted an hour ago?

https://discord.com/channels/1226846451028725821/1477788205356154913

[molten dirge]

No play at all is a strong assertion. Unless EDM’d it’d have a reasonable tolerance haha, granted it is probably much better than sheet metal

[molten dirge]

That’s what the alignment spacers were for

Then because of pre-wiring Z they got rid of it

Like all my previous gantry alignment issues stemmed exactly from taking off the alignment spacers

[molten dirge]

god i love the current webcam position so much haha

that just straight up looks so cool

i really need to finish the last tool.

but i think i can do that after i get the carto umbilical sorted & an actual cartographer mounted

[violet oasis]

https://tenor.com/view/eyes-friends-omg-my-eyes-blind-gif-3394821

[molten dirge]

T6 is not going well. the last G2E keeps binding, maybe xhp-222 is reacting..

[molten dirge]

lol so i was wondering why my toolheads were dropping off the CAN network

turns out, I used to have termination resistors directly on my BTT CEB, 1 on the kraken and 1 on the ceb

now that I'm using the hexa i only have 1 termination resistor in the whole network. I need two 😂

t6 will have a termination resistor

Install Kinematic Bed Mount
Mount nozzle cleaner
Figure out Z umbilical mount so i get full range of motion with super thick cable...

Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
AWD sync using grub screw method. Try klipper motor-sync module later
Reassemble t1-t5, magdock parts & goliath titanium/fiberglass heat shields
Reprint all tool magdock nozzle cleaner mounts, and actually connect the ptfe tubes. Maybe look for a bambu style nozzle cleaner brush mount.
Full functionality check on t0-t5
Install heat-shrink sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels
Clean up CANBUS wiring so i don't get random disconnections
t5 needs termination resistor```

[molten dirge]

my eyes too

[heady holly]

Wild thought, but maybe the black color has increased the black body radiation of the fiberglass itself? Maybe the manufacturer colored it with something that not only helps it absorb more heat coming at it from the hot end, but also radiate it away to the cool-side? Just a random hypothesis that's probably BS.

[molten dirge]

i got a thermal cam. Waiting on a lightning to c adapter to actually use it. But either way i think it's fine for part cooling fans ON with non-hot chamber

[molten dirge]

i've got a trip to ride stupid vehicles over an icel ake this weekend

so no printer updates till next week! 😂

[steep yew]

https://tenor.com/view/fresh-avocado-avocado-avocados-taco-meme-gif-7915712482776827727

Fre shavoca do situation right here

[molten dirge]

lol

i have cancelled my trip thanks to a random work trip to Seattle

as such today is printer day. Shortened all the toolhead cables (maybe too much)

also working on redoing all the cable management for the rear canbus backpack

& also testing tool5 ebb36

(spring steel is redone as well, screwed into took's mno7unt)

holy

[molten dirge]

weird. My last pt1000 (two of them) for the goliaths are all reading 65 million.

no clue what's going on

also can't find my last titanium heat shield 🙁

[steep yew]

sure you didn't build a crucible?

[molten dirge]

i think i might have fake pt1000s. Jumper for pt1000 2pin no max on the ebb361.2 is in

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite you're using nitehawks right

are they also compatible with 4 pin cables?

i finally got the tool cable management basically complete (no ptfe tubing yet tho) and it's pissing me off haha

want all 6 tools done for once

[lucid kite]

no

fystecs h36 board

[molten dirge]

omg

i keep forgetting lol sry

are u happy w them? Do they support 4 pin cable?

i tried 3 whole ebbs and different pt1000s and it works for a bit, then i reboot the printer and it doesn't work anymore

[lucid kite]

i havent used the machine much but that little i did they where just fine

[molten dirge]

That one dock had threaded inserts pulled out of the part, rip

Also working on a new door buffer part to put the upper crossbar in the right location

[hazy flame]

Holy shit that is a lot of sls

Just buy an sls printer at this point

[molten dirge]

most were free

[hazy flame]

Well I am working on a new extruder that uses the g2 gearset

that will hopefully fix the center of mass of the damn thing

[molten dirge]

Awesome

[hazy flame]

I finally got around to making a repack a few hours ago

https://discord.com/channels/1227971059764953230/1481493975071199382

[molten dirge]

@gentle bay any chance you can shave off like 1mm on your carto mount (actual mounting portion)?

it collides with the monolith slm adapter

[molten dirge]

@frail adder i finally figured it out

Why my goliath was cooling so much with part fans on..

the nozzles i'm using are longer than the standard Goliath.

[frail adder]

Strange. I use longer nozzles without issue.

And the thermistor on Goliath is a mile away from the nozzle. So the nozzle shouldn’t be affecting it.

[hazy flame]

That wouldn’t make a ton of sense with your setup. It isn’t like you are running a crazy wattage fan setup

1mm of nozzle isn’t going to destroy your hotend efficiently. Maybe?

[molten dirge]

also thermal cam says heat shield temp is over 150C

idk if that is normal.

[hazy flame]

That is completely normal

[molten dirge]

Some of the parts I needed are here now. But had to get new monolith slm adapters made @lucid kite due to interfering with cekim's mount, and i already printed cekim's in CF.

tool 6 is almost together but wiring is going to be painful.

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite the stainless steel bushings are all here. the 4mm ID ones are all pretty badly toleranced but work with the pins with minimal movement honestly

the 3mm ID ones, I'll need to design my own press fit 3d printed fixture to be able to edgefind/ mill it

[molten dirge]

what in the world

hexa distro fusion completely dropped CANbus to all toolheads

@lucid kite

are you using yours yet?

only the hexa is showing up, none of the toolheads are now

[frail adder]

First question that always comes to mind. Are those UUIDs in your config and is Klipper connecting to them but not the hexa?

[lucid kite]

Nope not yet

[royal cairn]

klipper usually "eats" the uuids, so you have to stop the klipper service before attempting to query the bus

[molten dirge]

that's what I did

turns out the CANBUS connection developed a spontaneous short.

(on the hexa, with all CAN and toolheads disocnnected)

the issue was Klipper wasn't detecting EBBT0.

I powered off everything, disconnected everything and measured the resistance between canbus H and L. 0 ohm

what I could try is disconnecting the 120 ohm built in trace and see what that does.

[molten dirge]

@frail adder @royal cairn the built in termination resistor burnt up or smth. Removing that by cutting the trace gave me full canbus back

@lucid kite when you do end up using it, i'd just cut the trace and put 2 resistors on each

[molten dirge]

6th tool is missing a few screws and still need to be tested for every function.. but... holy shit that looks great

Install Kinematic Bed Mount
Extend Z cable length so i can actually have a fully functioning zbilical

Install Cekim's cartographer shuttle mount.
Remove belts, use cable pulling techniques to wire GT2 EPDM Closed Loop straight cut belts from KB3D.
AWD sync using grub screw method. Try klipper motor-sync module later
Reprint all tool magdock nozzle cleaner mounts, and actually connect the ptfe tubes. Maybe look for a bambu style nozzle cleaner brush mount.
Test T5 full functionality

Machine 6x6x4mm stainless steel sleeve bushing. 3x6x6 is here + all the drills and reamers
Install heat-shrink sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position

Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Calibrate all tool offsets
Mount final 2 side panels```

[molten dirge]

stuck waiting for in3dtec to make me titanium monolith slm adapter. @burnt sinew planning on beacon/carto on your machine?

I got two again, this time the bottom has a lot less "support" so it doesn't interfere with any mgn12-close-fit usermods

[frail adder]

Afaik that would violate the 1 mcu policy that machine has.

[burnt sinew]

Correct 🙂

[burnt sinew]

Thanks for the offer though!

[molten dirge]

nevermore is back online :d

[exotic hemlock]

That's a lot of temps lmao

[molten dirge]

yeah but i still need motor temps lol

[violet oasis]

https://tenor.com/view/tommyboy-comedy-chrisfarley-stressed-upset-gif-11527925276528198601

[lucid kite]

Did this work with a stock standard anthead + stealtchanger backplate?

[lucid kite]

oh .. mind uploading the step/stl file for it? 😄

also are you using the stock standard wwg2 extruder in the anthead repo? (so the one with the toolhead runout sensor?)

[molten dirge]

works with rapidburner

[molten dirge]

stock wwg2 with dualFS, not anthead

idk if the anthead one is modded

believe it's this @lucid kite