#networking
1 messages · Page 86 of 1
thats probably gonna bbe worse cause where i stay my mobile data service is not the best
Yeah the trick is to not use the mobile data
Android will share its WiFi when USB tethering
iPhone users apparently need not apply
I’m sure there’s one stupid Android skin that doesn’t let you do it for some reason
I still remember when Samsung broke USB tethering for like four years
I tried a bunch of different phones and computers
Doesn’t even let you go in the settings when mobile data is switched off
i also highly dislike that iphones cannot share its connection via usb to ethernet adapter
its a crossover cable
yea was thinking the same thing, but im getting 10gig
crossover just means it is intended for card to card connections without a switch - though I seem to recall switches being smart enough now to just not care if the cable is standard or crossover.
it confused the HECK out of me since this is in wall network stuff
its meant for some TV thing really
and im still so confused why it was not just using you know not crossover
auto-mdix from the year 2000 or so
Yeah, I remember ethernet hubs. lol
i feel so bad for how much hate i have given the installers
tbf i never said anything direct to em
but god dam has this journey of local 10gig without having a cable in the middle of my floor been wonky
25g when?
fiber of course 🙂
never
I'm running 25g point to point between my desktop and server. I wouldn't expand that further though as I have no real reason to.
hello
haha yeah, I got 25 and my 4 drive pool couldn't even saturate 10 - so now I have 16 drives. And even they can't saturate the 25 gig link so now I have ten 240gb ssds I intend to stripe into a read cache.
Or you can have couple of nvme drives
Yes and no. I'm not going to get 30TB usable space out of NVMEs on X99 as it does not support bifurcation.
do you have one of those chinesium x99 motherboard
No, I have the best one, the Taichi.
With systemd on Linux
How would you go about restraining one service to only one network interface and also have nothing else on the server use this network interface ?
what's the usecase here?
Have one service use one specific network interface
Have everything else behave normally and not use at all this specific network interface
you just restated what you said before
Uh well, yeah lmao
well for linux ISOs qbittorrent has an option in the UI to bind it to a specific interface
There are apparently some modded BIOSes that add support but they can be buggy. I guess a few of the boards had it, but the Taichi didn't get it. It was much more common with X299.
yes but my wireguard interface would also route everything else through it by default, since I guess I need 0.0.0.0 as "allowed IPs" in the wg conf
I don't want that
I forgot how I set it up, but I think I was able to set the default route in linux to not go out wg
@kind pivot look up DEFROUTE=no
I'll check that thanks
I'm not versed in Wireguard specifically, but most VPN software / configurations should allow Split Tunneling both on a per-network (domain, ip address range) basis, and on a per-app basis. Assuming your configuration supports the latter, you should just be able to say "This <APP/PROCESS> always use <VPN>, everything else use <NOTVPN>."
Is there a reason you can't just run the vpn in a VM? You wouldn't have access to local network though if that was still a goal. My solution for that was to set up a router in a vm that the vpn vm connects to and the rules only allow that vm to access the IP of the VPN and to access the IP of the SMB share.
I would use something like ipleak dot net or one provided by your VPN provider to ensure it is all working properly if you attempt it. DNS leaks were a struggle I was having at one point, don't recall why.
this seems the right channel i guess... i got given one of these, idk the specs other than it would've sold for £1000, how good is it?
It's probably not that good
It's a random box without model numbers
one zero too many
I like me some used enterprise gear - but it is rarely power efficient.
well then why was there another one which was the same year but a cheaper model £800 then?
Impossible to know how good it is without the full system specs. (Or the Service Tag number found on a sticker, usually on the rear of the chassis.)
my guess is something like 128gb less ram
maybe
i'll dig it up on saturday
i've just been out of computer specs for so long i know a 3090 is good and i checked a couple months ago now there's a 40 and fifty series cards like damn i have NOT been paying attention
iirc its 5 years old if that helps
no it doesn't really.
Given it's standy upy nature, it's likely intended for small businesses and very well could have something like a consumer socket i3 rather than a proper server CPU with quad channel memory and more than 24 PCIE lanes.
it had 128gb at least and an entire school network ran on it and it wasn't a slow network either
about 200 computers
Well then it's a good thing he didn't say 200 vms ran on it.
i didn't say 200Vms
That being said, you don't really need a lot of power to run networking, or storage for that matter.
i don't know what it's called but it ran the logins and that also ran the network cameras
i think it was a poweredge t340
So it was likely being used as a Domain Controller / Server of sorts. As to how it was setup, who knows?
If it is a T340... those are still being sold by Dell (according to their website) so it might be worth more than a couple hundred if the configuration warrants.
https://i.dell.com/sites/csdocuments/Product_Docs/en/dell-emc-poweredge-t340-spec-sheet.pdf
of course a couple years older and it had a lotta ram
i asked for a server that could run factorio and for some reason all the others were 15-20yo that they weren't using
Enterprise / Server hardware ages out just like consumer grade hardware, but one can sometimes get double the lifespan out of it for certain use-cases, depending on the hardware. Tis why many homelab folks look for deals on old Enterprise gear as a tinkering / learning platform they can chuck in their basement.
I hope that's not all you want this for lol. Would be a very power hungry FactoIO server. You can use a Dell/HP/Lenovo mini PC to run game servers these days.
have you seen the cpu performance cost of late game factorio?
i already have 16gb ram and that's not enough
and a 5 3600x
also i am considering selling it because i don't actually know what i'm gonna do with something this much
Yes, I have, and it really boils down to number of players, what you're doing in the server, and mods, same as Minecraft servers. If you're playing with say... 5 friends on an unmodded server, you don't need enterprise gear. If you're playing with 20+ friends, including that one person who always has to push limits... then yeah, get as much power as you can afford.
all it boils down to in facotorio is how close you actually are to meeting green circuit demand, which is the real performance cost
Do Z790 boards have known USB issues?
Uh, ma’am, this is #networking
My bad my bad im on the browser discord so its updating slow
I got a free piece of enterprise networking equipment
Sadly it’s Meraki so it might as well be e waste cuz I ain’t paying that expensive subscription for basically a home router
Any suggestions on a Cisco Mangaged PoE switch to get. Need 16 ports min, and dont wanna break the bank
Looking at a used C2960X for $125, but there are some other smalled Cisco ones (Since I dont have a rack or easily able to put a rack mounted switch where its going), but they are all expensive asf
Just a heads up all the Cisco CBS switches are discontinued
That model you mentioned is a Catalyst which isn’t, but you see a lot of CBS switches still for sale online
yea, straight to trash
most c2960x switches are eol too
but they still work
cbs are a problem as they dont run real IOS so their cli is bit fucked up (linksys develped os)
I’ve always had to replace my router 1-3 times a year bc of thunderstorms but this time, it actually doesn’t fry the whole router
That sucks. I'm usually pretty dismissive of extra special isolation gear but at that rate I'd definitely be looking at cable/ethernet lightning arrestors.
Would get very expensive, very fast
Wrong type of CPU performance. Server hardware's generally designed to do a lot at one time rather than a few things very fast and Factorio needs the latter.
That said, For most games any turnip will do as long as it's an x86-64 turnip. For anything newer expect a modern budget CPU to run rings around any used Xeon at a fraction of the power
still faster than my current cpu
Don't count on it
just go with a high end desktop cpu and run it as server if you want the max performance for factrio
9800x3d is as much performance as you could possibly get right now afaik
you can still get 4x 48GB ECC UDimms in a normal mainboard, redudant psus and stuff like that, as well as rack mounted cases for atx boards
notable mention:
idile power consumption of xeons succckkkk as they are designed to run at 100% for years and not idile
Hi i need help picking a good router for gaming. My provider speed is 200 mbit download and upload and ping is around 4ms. I want the lowest latency possible and want to know if i should get a router with QoS.
You couldn't get a router WITHOUT QoS if you tried
Anyway, for the best ping, the best WiFi router is, anything with ethernet ports. and since your speed is above 100mbps, get gigabit.
And then use ethernet
@amber urchin @peak cloak
I've found how to do what I wanted
In the wireguard conf, in interface, I had to specify a custom routing table Table = 40 (arbitrary number)
Then add a rule in this separate table :
ip -4 rule add from client-wg-ip/32 lookup 40
Then when a process binds to the interface it will work, and other processes that don't won't use it
curl --interface wg0 blabla.com for example
Btw this rule only works for ipv4, but it's the same principle with ipv6, just another routing rule
And what about gaming optimised QoS? I found ASUS GT-AX 11000 (very expensive router) just for 113 euro
I would steer clear, that's 7 years old at this point
Okay but its a high end router and for the price. Do you think that gaming QoS doesnt make a difference when there is alot of people using the internet and downloading stuff or something?
The tiny dot between the 8 and the 4 is a decimal point
To be fair, it is a rather low end AX router
And u get good latency?
how would i test it? do you have a prefered method?
Wired or wireless
Ah, but you can buy a router with fixed and suboptimal QoS
And there's little practical difference between latency going to the sky when the link is saturated, and latency going to the sky when the link is saturated.
Yeah usually the QoS features on these things aren't worth jackshit unfortunately
I've had prioritisation help in games exactly once - when I made my own shaping policy on a Mikrotik and shaped all traffic to a Chromecast running Netflix on a 3mbps NBN Fixed Wireless connection.
"latency going to the sky when the link is saturated, and latency going to the sky when the link is saturated"
Some day I might play with cake/fq_codel but uh... fast speeds and live alone now
Oof that older equipment is quite the treat, isn't it 🤣
Four towers in a chain on one microwave link back to actual fiber, gen 1 WNTD
Oof. Gen 1. Yeah
There were no treats to be had 🤣 😢
It was beautful for the two months we had it before the ADSL subscribers saturated the links
50/20 > 3/8
Those v1 wntds are a real pain nowadays, stupid procedure to get them upgraded
A few of my friends on the same infra were bittorrent hounds. Cool people but sometimes I wanted to go over in a storm and uh... 🔨
Oh noes your external equipment is broke
Then Netflix came along in force and it was moot because everyone was killing it
The FUP came far too late, if there was a FUP it would've been a better experience
But then by the time nbn trialed a FUP the v3 wntds were already getting put in
A fair user policy wouldn't have saved it by the year mark
720p Netflix in the evening is not unfair
...even if 200 houses are doing it simultaneously...
Absolutely not, but if a FUP similar to sky muster (plus) was implemented it would've been a little better
Although not possible on fixed wireless
I think a lot of people would have been mad, after being put on a network that was frequently slower than ADSL1 with invoices promising 6-8 times greater throughput
Because yes the only option to do that would be more shaping based on consumption
On satellite I understand they gave the ISPs the quotas and if they shaped you or punished you that wasn't NBN co's problem
Depends, Skymuster, Skymuster plus and sky muster plus premium are all very different products
I'm pleased by the lack of ambiguity
Skymuster plus is layer 3, skymuster and skymuster plus premium are layer 2-ish NEBS
They did FW
They do, but only 25/5 and 75/10
They did 25/5 and 50/20 until the no promises model came in
Even now
I'm looking at Telstra consumer plans now and dear god
Lol the $93 /25/4
It never ceases to impress me that they still have customers
They're a good high water mark, makes everyone else look good
Yeah but it's hard to do worse unless you go Belong, and they own that. Different problem though, same bad value
Exchange price for service
Still better than any of the TPG group
Nah I could be convinced
While I'm not paying for it, Aussiebroadband is good though
Yeah, can't go wrong
Telstra doesn't even offer my plan for any price
Yeah they'd want you on Telstra EA
I don't think they offer 1000/400
It'd be 1000/1000 EE or go away yes
And I've forgotten the price tag for that
I don't wish for the trauma to resurface
It wasn't home office internet money for people who don't answer to "Gina" though
Ok ok maybe the owner of Atlassian
Really? I thought they would’ve wanted you on Telstra ea
Cheaper for them than nbn
Oh no they legit did not call me back
I called them about a SIM fleet for a project, which they also did not call me back for
Again I wonder how they could possibly aquire customers
How big
Probably too small, a job for the retail store
I was talking 100 SIMs? Not huge but not bad...
I ended up using my friends in that retail store to get a few special privileges, like my two boxes of unactivated SIMs :P
Just called them up and referred users to them, gave them a SIM. Moderately dodgy but it worked. Kinda gave up when I didn't make the sales I wanted anyways
Amplitel seems to be the least useless of Telstra
And the email team are surprisingly responsive too
Don't try calling Telstra directly if you find yourself in the possession of their blank SIM cards...
I sat through the anti-fraud training. I know how that'd go
It is annoying how difficult fleets of this size is though
Most of them simply had unacceptably low data caps
I had to worry about ~80 earlier this year and what we've ended up with is certainly not ideal
I also needed full coverage
Yeah so it's Telstra or Telstra
Pretty much. That project's long dead for new sales and I guess I'm happier with the SIMs not being my problem anyways even if it would have meant recurring revenue
Recurring pain. No thanks to being a middleman like that
Just sold my devices instead
Hey peeps - not sure if I should ask here or another channel. I need to create a solution for a highschool video editing lab. I had some ideas that I was hoping to bounce off someone.
We basically have a lab with some really old imacs which were being used with Final cut. The video files themselves were being stored on the local disks on the individual machines.
What I'm proposing is replacing the macs with mac minis. These would continue to be connected to the wifi for the sake of internet access and management. However locally, within the lab, they would be wired to a fast switch and a fast NAS.
My main concern is to prevent the NAS from being accessible outside the lab and I don't have the networking hardware at the school level to manage that.
If I had to simplify it, I could just buy high speed USB SSDs for file storage.
Hello,
so my company is opening a new office, and as soon as that happens I want to do the internet the right way this time. Although I am good with computers, just never needed to learn networking, now it seems I really do 😂
What do you guys think the best solution would be to maximize what I'm paying for provider wise. I have comcast business with 2 GB/S
We just had comcast put in their setup for the current place, and it's insane. Stops working randomly. Wireless runs at about 500 MB/S, what's funny is ETHERNET runs at only 60 MB/S. So really looking to put in my own hardware so it works properly, because they definitely won't fix it.
I think I can hear it begging you for a ~6U wallmount rack, that's just sad. Don't like the cable soup either - what's going on with the coax splitter?
I suspect based on your wording you're especially green on networking, else you wouldn't be using GB/S when you almost certainly mean gbps.
60mbps is an interesting number. ~90mbps would indicate some kind of cabling or hardware issue, possibly a bad or incredibly old cable, 60mbps is nothing specific. Do you perhaps have another switch, maybe some cameras somewhere else and you're sticking yourself and them on the other side of a bad cable?
If you're totally new to this and need skills now... considered hiring someone to design something for you? A good network setup pays for itself, as you've discovered.
If you want to learn this stuff for yourself you can always go do network+/CCNT and be prepared for future scenarios rather than learning while doing here.
This was all comcast. I haven't even touched it. It's absolutely horrendous 😭 😂
There are a ton of unnecessary switches I've seen, there are cameras as well.
I'm currently sharing an office with another company, and this is the setup that they have, so when I have a dedicated building, just looking for the best hardware I can put in there so I can do it properly. I'm fairly decent with technology in general, but also have the resources to hire somebody if I need to
Also, it is almost exactly 90 mbps, the whole ethernet being slow I'm assuming is just what the switches are rated for, but I'm not even worried about these just figuring out the hardware for the new setup
Also have a ton of printers which are always a disaster because of the network
Comcast is honestly a joke
Afaik Comcast only deals with setting up their router
They don't do any local side networking
Perhaps that's where the problem lies.
Nothing goes worse than nobody's job...
This. Wallmount rack, 1Gbps switch with 10Gbps uplink ports, maybe a rackmount PDU so you can get rid of some of the power spaghetti
Comcast only deals with the stuff that goes into your building, the poor LAN setup is not their fault 🤣
Get a professional to do it

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Rack is badly needed, that cisco switch is managed, if you have login for it you can start diagnosis there, if not then factory reset it and make a new config (i suspect this is single vlan scenario)
Hey. I'm new to networking and I wanna get rid of the AT&T provided Humax BGW320-500 since it's begun to be flaky. It's a fiber connection directly to my place.
I'm looking at Ubiquiti but I'm open to other options.
You know, it really stinks that there's no way to pre-fill lancache with steam games you don't own. A friend of mine is coming up next week and I'm gonna have a fresh windows install waiting for him to be able to game on and it'd be funny if I had his most/recent played games pre-cached so he could download them at however fast the 14700k would decompress or 10 gigabit if it's that much faster than my 5700x3d that can only pull at most 3. lol
I'm not an AT&T customer, don't live in USA, and haven't personally dabbled with PON stuff, but if your service is currently Fiber to the Home (FTTH) and you want to ditch your existing modem, you'll likely need to do a lot of research. https://pon.wiki/guides/masquerade-as-the-att-inc-bgw320-500-505-with-the-was-110/
Masquerade as the AT&T Inc. BGW320-500/505 with the WAS-110 or HLX-SFPX
Also, if you have physical home phone through AT&T using this same modem, you may have to keep their hardware for phone to keep functioning.
Oh I don't use landlije
Its a rabbit hole. You need a special device to pretend to be to be the bgw320 because of the authentication system
use some cable ties or something, jesus christ
lol
Using one here basically in the existing router config can go to firewall->ip passthrough and select a new router that is hooked up wired and passthrough the connection (allocation mode: passthrough, passthrough-mode: dhcps-fixed, then choose mac addresses of the router as device to passthrough to)
Been this way for months and no issues really still get 950Mbps or so on 1 Gbps fiber and on and off game or stream stuff from various media services and buddies, using a couple of mesh routers here behind the at&t one... Oh I guess one other thing worth noting I'm using different DHCP range for the mesh router setup too from what the at&t one has just didn't want things conflicting, am still able to get to the at&t admin page too somewhat surprisingly (guess the mesh routers are able to route to it still but just feels a little surprising that still works)
I also have been using bgw320 with passthrough mode for about a year, no issues
Okay, appriciate everybody's responses that helped, thank you
hey guys, im trying to create my first real portfolio project, and came up with idea of creating an internet activity logger in C using eBPF
But when ive started looking for some guides about how to use bpf in my projects a didnt got a single thing about it, so im here to ask u guys for some good and easy books/repos/projects/whatever to start understanding bpf
As i know for now ebpf "is a technology that can run programs in a privileged context such as the operating system kernel"
Thats all I know honestly...
So ye, 1 more time
Any advices, books, courses, yt videos, repos and other stuff is welcome
Also if uve got better ideas for a technology to be used in my projects, pls tell me all u know
(And ye technically its connected to networking so pls no offtop warnings to me)
Have you looked here?
https://ebpf.io/get-started/#docs
Yep
But as i see its more about introducing into eBPF
Ive tried to check out documentation part
but its pretty hard to understand where is what
are linksys nodes good for wifi boosting and there all hardwired to the main router
and also my English is not good enough to read documentation in original
And I know that if i translate it I can miss some important info
Ah, yah that's going to make this much more complex and challenging
How can I force a cli tool (natpmpc) to use a specific network interface ?
Like curl --interface
it dosnt directly support an --interface
That's what I saw
however you can force it to use a specific network interface by specifing the gateway ip on the interface manually
Yeah I do that but I think my routes aren't enough for that
Though when using curl --interface it works fine
I get ```readnatpmpresponseorretry returned -100 (TRY AGAIN)
With ``natpmpc -g specific-gateway``
When I don't use a separate routing table for this interface it works fine
the problem is your using a separate routing table for the interface
it might correctly send out packets but the reply dosnt make it back because the os dosnt know how to reach the ip
as a source
I see, indeed that's not great
you could adda policy based rule that matches the source ip
ip rule add from sourceip lookup 40
Like that ?
echo "40 eth1rt" | sudo tee -a /etc/iproute2/rt_tables
sudo ip route add default via 192.168.2.1 dev eth1 table eth1rt
sudo ip rule add from 192.168.2.100 lookup eth1rt
that
won't this route everything through the interface ?
I want a wireguard interface that is only used by two applications, so in the wireguard.conf I set up "table = 40" that added :
default dev wg-proton scope link for the table 40
The first one I can select in it the interface so it's fine I guess (qbitorrent)
The second one, I can only specify the gateway (natpmpc)
sudo ip rule add from 10.7.0.2 lookup 40
Thanks
It wasn't exactly this but it was close enough to help
yw
10gbase T why ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO1_k96tnOs
We check out the follow-up to an ultra-popular model on STH, now with a newer processor and 10Gbase-T networking. This is the homelab node that many have asked for as they build nodes for Proxmox VE, or just Debian / Ubuntu servers and virtualized pfSense or OPNsense.
STH Main Site Article: https://www.servethehome.com/qotom-10gbase-t-mini-pc-w...
Rate my internet speed
yea its quite dumb
i mean i get it, but usually the issue is the pricing of 10gbase T switch hardware, not routers/PCs/miniPCs
issue is that people are hardwired to multi port routers and firewalls
a router with single sfp+ in a router on a stick config is so nice
Here in France we have isp router with 10GbaseT
And for example my house is wired in the walls in ethernet, so I'd need to convert to ethernet anyway
having connections directly to this router is not most performant way.
this is because traffic from one interface to another will have to pass through the cpu.
more optimal way is to have a switch for lan since then packet switching is done on ASIC instead
Thanks for the explanation
It's not optimal but it has enough brawn to just do it
Besides between the two 10 gig ports which you'd want to route between if available for full duplex anyways... 2.5 gig ports? On an 8-core x86 processor?
It may as well be a switch for the bridging performance in a SOHO environment
I'd personally want to stick a switch on it (and those are cheaper in SFP+) and in mikrotik land I tend to go for l3 offloads where available myself... but I don't think it matters here
Grab this, some nice APs, Mikrotik's new 4-port 10gigE switch and a set of 10 gig nics and you've got a hell of a home network
Planning my home network... Shouldn't I get some large rack switch at this moment? 😄 I wanted to avoid it because of the cost and noise (as it will be in office room), but stacking these small switches starts to seem as bad decision...
Issue is that I need at least 2.5G link between internet, office plugs, NAS and APs (Which on top of that need PoE :D)
if you only have two poe devices, why not use injectors?
you definitely need some slightly larger switches, here you will have just one port spare and any expansion will require purchase of additional switches
Because they cost the same as just paying little more for Flex PoE + buying some generic 54V 100ishW adapter
and what about buying both the switches poe and non vs the injectors and a single larger switch?
I added one more Flex (non PoE) and I will connect them by passive DAC SPF cable. I think this is much better and still like half of the price compared to buying Pro Max 24 (because Pro Max 16 have just 4x2.5G) + Injectors...
^^ Like this?
Was just writing the message when you sent yours
no, I meant like a single non poe switch and two injectors
Yeah but in that case I need at least Pro Max 24 (https://eu.store.ui.com/eu/en/category/switching-professional-max-xg/products/usw-pro-max-24) to get 8x2.5G ports (as 4 is not enough for me), which is around 502eur with VAT + injectors each for like 30-40eur... Compared to two Flexes for around 400... Not counting that the large switch will make a hell lot of noise and more heat (probably?)
So more money, more noisy, higher power consumption, less 2.5G ports (-8) and each new PoE device will require another injector
I think that with this I should have enough spare and future proofed if I ever get more devices that can take advantage of 2.5G. Only downside is that I will have just 2.5G uplink with router :/
And I guess 2 additional hops between the second switch and internet but that should not be issue in my case 😄
huh didn't realize that. Guess another reason to add to the list of why I don't like Ubiquiti. Personally, I see 5g and 2.5g nics and think 'wow that's an expensive 1g port'. To me there is only 1g and 10g so I can use cheap switches.
have you looked at non ubiquiti options?
recently i have been looking at cisco WS-C3850-12X48U-L and it seems perfect 48 ports, 12 of them are mgig (1g, 2.5g, 5g, 10g) with expansion slot for additional module
all ports are poe
price wise they are 110$+ shipping in US, ~200 euros in europe
Yeah but I need to put it into office room so I have to buy fanless or very quitet one. This is probably loud as f**k
I kinda have use for the 2,5 gig and 10gig is still extremely out of my budget atm.
i use c9200 on regular basis and they arent that loud but yea audible
Also I kinda like the Ubiquiti ecosystem and I will 100% be buying the U7 APs so why not to go with switch and router too tbh...
I actually tried Microtik, TP-Link and Zyxel "UFO" styled APs and they all sucked both performance-wise and feature-wise compared to the new U7 lineup
I would go with the Pro Max 24 and two injectors if I got info from someone about the loudness 😄 I dont mind paying like 100 eur more to get 24 usable ports and use injectors when I need them (as they cost like 20 euro for the multigig ones as I just noticed, which is not bad)
Hey all, I have a TrueNAS CE server that I installed the open speed test app on. I went on to my local PC and attempted to run a speed test and I only got ~2500Mbps up and down. Both the server and the local machine are uplinked at 25GbE and I am not quite sure why I am not getting the performance I expect. the CPU only goes up to about 9% utilization as well.
Is there an alternative path?
Aka server and pc are directly connected with 25g and connected to a 2.5g switch for rest of lan
both the TrueNAS server and the PC are connected at 25GbE to a unifi aggregation pro and are showing connected at 25GbE
there are no other connections on either other than the 25GbE links (other than the 1GbE IPMI on the server side)
I wonder if you're limited by disk speed. I added the docker container to one of my VMs that runs docker for lancache and I'm getting 15.4/11 over my 25gbe point to point link.
I dont think so that shouldnt affect a speed test
not to mention I was able to have 25GbE no problem on unraid. Just the switch to TrueNAS seems to have caused an issue
I just dont know what
Not sure what to say. I get much better results from iperf so something is bottlenecking this speed test.
Is your truenas bare metal or under proxmox?
nothing on either side is getting pegged to even more than 20% usage. I just dont know what is causing it to run slower than even 10GbE
bare metal
same for the other machine you're testing from? bare metal
the other machine is a bare metal windows install
I ask because I made the mistake of somehow setting up a vm with an intel instead of virtio network adapter and it was limited to around 2.5. although it did peg out the cpu
server is bare metal TrueNAS CE on an R730 with a mellanox CX4-LX card at 25GbE. PC is a 7950X3D with the same card at 25GbE. Both uplinked to a Unifi Agg pro switch at 25GbE
Same cards I run.
like I said I had no issues on unraid. Just TrueNAS. It has to be some configuration somewhere but I have no idea because it feels artificially limited
Have you tried iperf?
iperf keeps giving me an error on the client side
server says its listening but the client says this
yeah with iperf3 I get roughly 20-22Gbits vs the 15/11
oh you're in powershell you either need to ./iperf3 or just run it in cmd
so ./iperf3 -c n.n.n.n
And you are in the folder it was in? For example %userprofile%\Downloads\iperf-3.19-win64
no I didnt know I needed to download it on windows
oh, yeah. lol
Was it built in on truenas? didn't remember that. I've run truenas scale bare metal and virtualized under proxmox with the HBA passed thru and both times it's worked just fine with the 25gbe network adapter - although I cannot get full speed due to my drives not being fast enough. Originally it was four 4tb hdds and now it's 16 of 'em. Still not fast enough so I grabbed ten 240gb ssds to make into a 10 wide stripe for the read cache. Figure 128GB RAM, 2TB read cache ought to be enough for 30 ish TB of space that I'm currently only using around a quarter of.
it is pre installed on TrueNAS
Even over my gigabit connection, this openspeedtest is hitting around 12% of the 8 cores I gave this VM. I think this test is probably CPU bottlenecked, likely single core. It's hangin out around 15% on the down and 46% on the up.
so what is the legit place to get iperf3 for windows?
Github
I think I grabbed mine from techspot but wikipedia lists esnet as the official. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iperf
apparently there are no official windows builds
But please run -P atleast 10
You didnt include parameter -P 10
iperf3: error - unable to connect to server - server may have stopped running or use a different port, firewall issue, etc.: Connection refused
Uppercase P and not lower case
Lower case one defines the port, uppercase defines number of parallel streams
You should definitely be getting better results than that. I doubt it has anything to do with TrueNAS though. Did something else change when you went from unraid to truenas?
[SUM] 0.00-10.01 sec 24.9 GBytes 21.3 Gbits/sec sender
[SUM] 0.00-10.02 sec 24.8 GBytes 21.3 Gbits/sec receiver
nothing changed other than operating system
what does ethtool say about the network card and negotiated speeds ?
like my ConnectX-3 says this when running ethtool enp9s0
Is 300 USD an ok price for a 4 "bay" m.2 nvme enclosure?
that depends on your needs and lane distribution
what i mean by that is:
- what is the connectivity of said enclosure ? 1 gigabit can be easily fully saturated by a single mechanical hard drive, even SATA SSDs will be more than enough for 2.5 gigabit, single NVMe drive will be more than enough for 5 and 10 gigabit ethernet.
- what performance it provides? Most likely up to a N100/N150 system judging by the price, which is fine for most tasks, just don't plan to run way too much on it due limited memory capacity (16GB) and single channel memory
having said that, different designs can be found around 170 euros or so
5Gb Ethernet
there is also https://www.bee-link.com/products/beelink-me-mini-n150 which is a 6 drive nas and $200 or so
So N95 with 8GB of RAM would be bad?
N95 is afaik just a bit worse than N100, but for NAS duties, it doesn't matter. 8GB RAM is up to what you want from it
what i mean is for generic NAS duties, anything can do that
The fact that it says the 5Gb speed in 500% faster than 1Gb makes me want to stab somebody...
but if you start running various docker images on it, RAM and CPU can become a bottleneck depending on the application
And I don't even know what "execution units" are...at this point I think they might just be making things up...
EU = GPU
you don't really use the GPU for anything other than possibly transcoding (where you use only the encoder/decoder of it) in a NAS system
N95 is 15W, N100 is 6W, N100 is like 2/3 of N95 performance at those power numbers
I just checked and my 4 bay SATA NAS cost me 390 before tax with hard drives
just saying that beelink might be a good option for NVMe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWdFk_rhIyA
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My only real regret is it's ARM...and after I bought it i found out a bunch of programs don't have ARM versions...
you don't have to run stuff on the NAS. Grab a cheap N100 mini PC next to your NAS, and let it do the server duties
I don't have to have a NAS
It's not like I dont use it. It has been usefull. I just still miss all those files I lost on my 6TB drive
200 for the BEMEMINI seems tempting though. But I know I don't need nvme
well that was your initial question. "Is 300 USD an ok price for a 4 "bay" m.2 nvme enclosure?"
if you don't need NVMe, i would probably build my own, more so if you can find a cheap Fractal Define case nearby
then you can use nearly anything - a 6th or 7th gen Intel i3/i5 is cheap, low power. Add the motherboard, some RAM, a cheap Thermalright cooler, a cheap 250GB SSD for booting, PSU and you are all set.
Maybe I can just convert my old AM4 system
that is an option too. It might consume more power, but if you will use the power of the CPU, it might be a good option. I personally use a Threadripper 2950x as my server
I'm poor...so my AM4 system is a 2600
but yeah, power is a problem
If i get a dedicated thing, it might be like 30-150 watts. but powering an old tower would probably be 200-400 watts
not really
you can boot without a GPU on most boards, so you will talk about 50-60W idle power without the hard drives tops
yes, full load will be 200W, but that is another story
so, i load the OS and boot it and just hope it's booting?
you can have a GPU in it while you set up your NAS OS, then disable BIOS warning/stop features and boot just without a GPU later
alternatively you can grab a cheap, older lowend GPU for it
like R5 240 or something
i dont think cheap GPUs even exist anymore
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$20 is not cheap ?
i didnt expect that to be there
12 dollars
unsure which GPUs are compatible tho
ok, so link speed is correct at least on one side. Only other thing i can think off is that while your link speed is 25Gbps, due a damaged cable you are getting ton of errors, which cause your speeds to be horrible. I had a similar issue where a 10 gigabit RJ45 card connected to a 10 gigabit RJ45 switch port was doing only 200mbps or so, and swapping the cable instantly fixed it, as there were no constant retries on networking layer
nothing has changed other than going from unraid to TrueNAS
and I was getting 25 gigabit on unraid
its also a DAC cable
you could still check if you aren't getting RX/TX errors in ifconfig
is it possible that the connection is being routed thru the gateway for some reason that is not 25gbe and thus that link is limiting? Perhaps a traceroute from the client side to the server?
maybe but the switch is LAGG uplinked to the switch at 20Gig
actually its not its only linked to the stack at 10 gig
if the gateway device is on a 2.5gig port, you'd be limited to that speed if there is a reason for the two devices to route thru it. The tracert should show a single hop directly to the truenas ip.
but its still well below 10 gig speed
the gateway is a UDM Pro linked to the network stack at 10GbE
and I am still seeing less than 10 gig
UDM Pro > 10GbE > AGG Pro >25GbE >Truenas server
>25GbE> Local PC
Most resellers near me sell new old stock GT710's for peanuts for those seeking a monitor card. They even have 2GB of VRAM, as to not be utterly useless.
I don't recommend an ancient AMD card with 256MB of VRAM on a system you'd happen to want a graphical desktop on, even if you did save $8 over buying one with at least 1GB
would a 580 be enough?
is NAS and PC on the same vlan?
Is the TP Link Deco x10 3 pack for £135 fine, or are there better spec ones for same price / cheaper
literally any GPU will do, but ideally you either remove it after install, or get one which idles at low watts
So it wasn't on same vlan?
it was not
I thought about specifying vlans, but I figured he'd run a tracert and find out that it was routing thru the gateway then take it to the next step.
I wonder if I turn off IPS/IDS and have them on the regular vlans if it will route at 25gbps
didnt even think that would be the problem
no, as it is connected via single or dual 10g
I can move the WAN to a rj45 port and DAC LAGG the second port on the UDM to the Agg switch. I do have a dac cable sitting around
shitty that agg pro doesent do ACL
the agg pro does support ACL according to google
this could be outdated IG
yeah looks like it only does network isolation ACLs
I guess I should have bought that dell switch instead of the agg pro lol
or a nexus
yeah I would rather have one of dells opensource switches than a propriatary cisco
dell switches are just broadcom whitelabel
well I guess I can always upgrade to 100 gig lmao
alr so i have a main router for my house but Im moving my pc into a different room and I cant move the router
there IS a coax hookup in the room tho, so i can get a new router
how should i go about this and will it negatively affect the main router?
Thats called MoCa
yeah I know. @white prairie I am assuming you only have a gigabit connection?
about yea
also are you talking about getting a new router or new modem?
like is that what i should do?
i just know my pc doesnt have a wifi chip, nor is the wifi strength from that room good enough
or you can run ethernet cable to that 2nd room
nah too far
so you want to add a second router? or move the router? because adding a second router will just double NAT
what does double nat mean
something you want to avoid dealing with if you can
when you have 2 routers doing nating inline
i thought a lot of people have 2 routers
Network Address Translation
one is tipically put into a bridge mode
but what are you trying to do specifically? just get a wired connection to the PC?
yea
dont add a second router then
just get a MoCA adapter for both ends of the coax. plug ethernet into the router then ethernet from the other end of the coax into the pc
solutions from best to worst
run ethernet cable
MoCa
Powerline
wifi
if you really want you can add a switch at the PC side to have additional ports for more connections
^
is it me or is this confusing
ethernet direct is definitely the best way to go
whats this mean
networking does have quite a bit of learning curve
This ECB7250 coax to ethernet adapters kit use your home's coax cables to deliver internet speeds up to 2.5 Gbps, surpassing Wi-Fi speeds. Actual speeds with MoCA adapters can be affected by various factors like cable quality and other MoCA devices on the network. Get the best speeds and bandwidt...
you dont need 2.5 gig ones but these esentially
i recomend a long eathernet and put it along the top of your wall to the router
also for what you're doing you should never need a second router. you would just want a network switch
bridge mode essentially turns router into a modem
you dont need to deal with that though
Maybe a AP tho
just do a MoCA adapter, switch on the other side, and add an AP along with the ethernet to the pc
my house is full with cat 6 to a patch pannel to a switch to the router to another switch to power the wifi
its confusing
i dont get how these work lol
connect ethernet and connect coax
lucky fella
run 2 to each place
Ill probably smurf tube everything
be like linus pc in server room monitor and other stuff in another room
and i need 2 for this?
el spaget
looks better than my rack lol
wait I THINK I GET IT
put one adapter between the wall and my router,
and the other one in the room where im putting my pc?
yep
gotta censor smtg
and you might want to add a 4 port switch for extra connectivity on the PC side
how does that even work
would be smart bc my xbox is in there too
magic
is it okay if i have a bullshit "gateway" and not an actual modem/router
gatweway is router
isnt it like both
no
gatweway in smb/soho networks is just local IP of the router
modem is the connection to the outside world (Wide Area Network aka WAN) and your router takes your WAN and converts it to the Local Area Network (LAN). the router ROUTES traffic from different devices through the WAN to the interenet
btw you can connect straight to the modem and raw dog the net
ye i wouldnt do that
yea, i only did it twice when ISP was bullshitting me to prove i am right
If the networking people from my ISP came to my house they would have no idea what they are even looking at lmao
so wheres my modem lol
I started on a linksys. Then I moved to unifi
provided by my internet provider
really
ye i might move to unifi
where the internet comes in from the outside of the house
so why do some people need modems
not like they give 2 shits about what user connects to their cpe
because its how the ISP gives you a WAN IP
.
I mean everyone tracks everyone. welcome to the internet
so is the isp giving me a wan ip bad
no
you need the WAN IP otherwise you have no internet
so some ISPs give it some ISPs dont and require users to have a modem
its like your house number. then the router gives room numbers to your devices
all ISP require a modem
just it can be in diffrent forms
all internet connections have a WAN
so for me they just have it on their end
Or you could get the gateway to a 25gig device?
I suggest going and doing a little youtubing on how the internet works
I mean you could get a CoLo to a DC but thats big money
Or faster if you can manage it
so for me all i need is a moca
depends on which moca adapter you get
in theory it shouldnt effect it that much
which do i get
as long as you get a gigabit one or faster
also is it bad that the coax in the room im moving my PC to isnt a outlet its just a wire coming through the wall
if you dont want to think about it then get the one I linked
dopesnt matter right
no
does brand matter
makes sense but wouldnt some brands be more reliable
and also so instead of having the coax go into my gateway i have the ethernet?
i think it only has a coax input
ethernet are all out
get a switch then
whats that do
turns 1 port into 5,8,12,24...
how does that fix my issue with my router only taking coax in
it really sounds like you dont know the difference between a modem and a router
the coax goes to the modem. from the modem it comes out to the router over ethernet
for my gateway thing i just plug the coax into it
that is modem
again thats the modem
coax from the outside world goes into the modem. from the modem it will come out over ethernet to the router
if you have only one device then it has everything inside (modem, router, access point, switch)
then you should have either 2 or 4 rj45 ethernet ports
do you have any free ethernet ports on it?
yea but i thoguht they were only output
it is where you will plug one of the moca adapter
it can be same port where your PC is connected to
oh
here i modified a diagram that i found. circled in red is your xfinity box, it takes in coax and has network ports
you will need 2 moca adapters and a coax splitter
i didnt know it was capable of that i thought it needed to be coax
so i wont have any coax input to my router?
if you take a photo of it we can see what is going on exactly
xfinity XB8-T
Learn more about wireless gateways and download the user guides.
@tame estuary @opal pagoda lmk what im working with, sorry im so dumb lol
thanks for the help
there is a MoCA enable/disable switch in the admin panel tool
could you take a screenshot of that
@white prairie the xb8-t does have built-in moca, so no adapter on its end is needed. If you had comcast install the xb8, they should've placed a filter somewhere on your coaxial cabling. The filter is the inline device with the red ring in this picture (though this is just one example, it doesn't need to be a red ring or have a ring at all). Ideally it was already placed at the coax point of entry into your home and not as shown in this picture. If yours was placed as shown, it will need to be moved
How nice of whoever installed it to put it in the "don't work" position
I guess it's safer than allowing MoCA to work when it's not explicitly desired or correctly filtered at the entry to the premises
I'm guessing the incoming line was out of reach and they were too lazy to get a step stool or something lol. If not that's some seriously lazy cable tech
hm not bad https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YJ0s_LxXgU
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Do I plug this into the jusb1 on the motherboard ?
Yeah it's likely for Bluetooth support
They often run that separately over USB for what I can only presume is cost reasons
Way better with the WiFi card
Thanks bro
This isn’t the case I put mine in… so what do I do
Apologies for the late response lol
@nova glacier from what I understand, basically as long as I enable moca on the admin page, I just need 1 adapter?
Yes, for the "remote" side
So what’s the filter for
Blocking traffic from MoCA from passing it. To put on the line into the property so you're not blasting local traffic down the street.
I don’t have it, is that bad?
Wdym blasting local traffic down the street
Coax is like a radio, multiple things run on one wire. The coax in your home is connected to the street that goes out to all the homes. You don't want your moca going out to the street so you filter certain frequencies to block it
So do I need a filter and a moca?
1 or 2 filters
Nvm I found it
is this good?
Important!!! This listing is for 1(one) filter. Prevents interference between subscriber homes that use MoCA technology Enhances MoCA signal level within the subscriber home Built-in Surge Withstand 6kV B3 Combo Wave Built-in weather seal perfect for indoor and outdoor applications 5-1002 MHz Ban...
Does it just go on the coax in to my house before the main splitter ?
yes
it goes right there
Important!!! This listing is for 1(one) filter. Prevents interference between subscriber homes that use MoCA technology Enhances MoCA signal level within the subscriber home Built-in Surge Withstand 6kV B3 Combo Wave Built-in weather seal perfect for indoor and outdoor applications 5-1002 MHz Ban...
@white prairie There's one more caveat for moca to work. All splitters between the two coax outlets need to be moca compatible. Splitters will usually have frequency range on the label and moca needs up to 1675MHz. Old splitters usually only go up to 1000MHz
Shit alr, this goes for the main splitter where the isp coax comes into my house?
If that's one of the splitters between the two coax outlets, yes
Alr
I’ll have to go in the attic to check
Was the equipment I found on Amazon good?
xb8-t's built-in adapter is only moca 2.0 (1Gbe), so you don't need a moca 2.5 adapter. If 2.5Gbe is something you want, you'll need to get a second adapter to plug into a xb8-t lan port.
while you're there, check if there's already a filter behind that splitter. comcast has been using moca for their DVRs for a while so you might actually have one already
@nova glacier I have a question how do these work https://www.amazon.com/WiFi-6-Mesh-System-AX3000/dp/B09PRB1MZM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ngn9miqpOBE8KXpE6rzSZCpscZrq3ptmetbVxpTCgT1YvcrL73Nc4GFIAAqsLd3rDP5gyPS0VQMvBdZTo3Ige5YAM0S39OlG2dfx9JInrzrrqfCfp3F64OLOAkiORFGC9xnzoTWij9kNIk3KNe08dZXOTyvCwqMmuZVV1SbxjNtQeVpsHqcuFiQzPDguzIW0ZVavoJi379zivDpyn_mLAQ.Fg-2gCYolisK6VtxyBr5nfsqI-OnRyT2D3i0CpCC5Gg&dib_tag=se&keywords=Tp+link+deco&qid=1750907242&sr=8-3
Someone reccomended them to me and I was a bit confused
- Do they support devices that need 2.4 GHz because with my current T-Mobile 5G set at default I can’t seem to connect more devices
- How does it actually work does it split the speed for example 500mbps between the three ap? Or is the speed still 500 mbps overall across all aps
all wifi routers today support 2.4GHz. There are cases where IoT hardware fails to connect to a network with a unified SSID for 2.4GHz/5GHz(/6GHz). Many routers support the creation of a dedicated 2.4GHz only SSID that you can connect IoT hardware to while keeping a unified SSID for the rest of your devices
- yes anything with these protocols is supported on it: 802 11 AX, 802 11 AC, 802 11 N, 802 11 G, 802 11 B
- your speed to the internet is a total for all devices using that pipe at the same time, the LAN connections can/typically are faster than the connection the ISP provides but are ultimately limited by the combination
the bandwidth isn't explicitly "split" here but is always divided amongst all the devices on the network
a given wireless device to a given access point is going to have a given max bandwidth based on distance/interference etc. but so long as that bandwidth is well above whatever the ISP provides you're then just limited based on what other devices are pulling data through the same "pipe"
it appears that the TP-Link Deco X55 doesn't support doing this, so if this is something you need for a device you'll have to use something else.
However, TP-Link has an option to make an IoT network
does it? I couldn't find a manual for the deco x55 so I had to guess from random pictures people have taken of the app
oh neat. I hate products that don't put manuals online and instead have info littered across forum posts
I'm guessing that was added after the fact anyway, judging by the blog post
I also hate how the consumer Decos have no (real) web interface, but it works for lots of people
yeah is my only gripe honestly otherwise pretty happy with em overall
Ive never had comcast cable
Also what cat Ethernet should I get
6 or 6a
If it's just for 1gig connection, then whichever is cheaper
My plan might be 1200mbps
Both are still fine
5e is fine for 2.5Gbe patch cables
But as I mentioned earlier, if you do choose to use the XB8-T's built-in MOCA that's only MOCA 2.0 which is 1Gb max
Okay 1gb is fine anyways
So I need to make sure that my splitter is 1675mhz
ScreenBeam's ECB6200 Bonded MoCA 2.0 Network Adapter features a 2.0 Gigabit Ethernet port, delivering up to 2.0 Gbps In and 2.0 Gbps Out capabilities, giving you all the extreme high-speed bandwidth you need for flawless streaming of HD video, pristine online gaming, and all of your other demandi...
yes, every splitter between the two points your connecting if there's multiple
This one good?
Got it, and the filter I found should work correct
So I need a new splitter, does the dB out matter?
yes. While you're ordering things you can also get 75 Ohm termination caps to put on unused ports in the house. It helps increase signal integrity and will make your internet a bit more reliable
Yep. Less dB drop is better, which tbc I mean -3dB is better than -3.5dB
Okay, whys it even an option why aren’t they all low lol
Also should I get a 1675 mhz one or more
Sometimes you want more loss 🙂
Interesting
just a matter of design. It's desirable to have a less lossy port that you'd use for the connection to another splitter
moca is 1125-1675MHz, so more doesn't help
Alr I got 10 min for 2 day shipping
Lemme find one rq
They’re all -7db @nova glacier
Like this https://a.co/d/c8aZNKZ
Bam splitters were designed by 2 highly experienced cable Technicians who were frustrated by the lack of access the general public had to high quality components for their cable setups. Bam splitters were built to give an improved experience for the end user very high quality, bi-directional, hig...
don't get more ports than you need to split
Okay, I mean I have 4 ports in my house but only 3 outs on the splitter
Don’t ask I basically made one additional
But I don’t NEED four
The Amphenol Digital ABS31xH Series Splitters allow for the distribution of high frequency signals throughout a coaxial home network. Featuring capability up to 1675 MHz, these splitters reliably support signals for networking and video distribution applications. ABS31xH Series Splitters have a l...
Good? I have 4 min lol
If you want to get really ideal use a 2-way splitter and a 3-way. Your modem will get a slightly better connection to comcast
I got the three way, should I cancel and get the 2
I can use the 3.7db one to my modem anyways for the three so does it make a difference
Issue is that I’m not getting connection to garage opener and door camera, hence why I’m switching to tp-link
Wouldn’t switching to 2.4 only affect the other devices connecting to 6E for example
What?
It wouldn't. Having both a 2-way and 3-way would just let you use that extra port you mentioned. You wouldn't have to cancel the existing order either
You are creating a seperate 2.4Ghz only network for IoT devices
Alr alr im good should get all the stuff in 2 days
Also for the record there was no moca filter on the splitter lol
Thanks for the help
That does not (for your purposes) affect any other networks for devices
Oh makes sense you can’t do that with t-mobile which sucks
@nova glacier should I use the -3.7db port on the splitter for my gateway or for the room where I’m putting the moca adapter
always give the modem the best connection. It has to communicate with a device much farther away
yeah the mesh access points basically communicate with each other and the "main" access point that is hooked up to the incoming connection from the internet, but if you configure something it propagates/copies that configuration out to the "satellites" (other access points)
ideally you want each of the satellites to be roughly mid way between the main mesh router and whatever the "end devices" are but just takes some testing since very RF environment varies some
Got it thanks
this might be a stupid idea but if i have 2 ethernet cables plugged into my router and into a switch and then i connect my PC up to the switch aswell, what would happen
like, would it be some what redundant if one of the main cables breaks because im running 25 meter ethernet cables now and im planning on running 2 just in case and i dont particularly want any downtime if it does break, obviously i don't anticipate one breaking but just in case
Setting up link aggregation would be necessary to make it seamlessly fault tolerant. That said though, two cables running the same path wouldn't really be considered a good form of fault tolerance.
If the switch has some kind of loop protection built-in, like Spanning Tree Protocol, then it'll likely shut off both ports when it detects a loop, or just one of the duplicate connections won't work. The switch itself would need to support port aggregation or failover / redundancy for this setup to "work" how you expect.
alr i'll just switch them manually, if it breaks thank you
If it doesn't support Spanning Tree or loop detection, welp, enjoy your self inflicted packet storm! 🤣

only doing this because some how a mf rat got into my wall and chewed through my cable
damn
i was just trying to think ahead, there are no more rats anymore but idefk how it got in to begin with so i was just tryna think of ways to avoid it, i have some mega thick cables this time around
Just check if you've got link aggregation, it's not too uncommon but I know so many consumer routers are getting dumbed down to fuck with "apps" only
well im going to buy a switch cause i don't currently have one so i'll look for one with that
While I applaud your desire for redundancy here... The way to actually resolve this problem is not by deploying more cables... 
thank you 
my house is very old, it has lots of lead so i have absolutely no wifi working upstairs, it's not lead paint but i feel like most of the upstairs is a faraday cage or something xD
If it's plaster... There could be lots of metal in the walls indeed.
yeah it is, i think the metallic corner and support things are making it act like a faraday cage
which is slighlty inconvenient but i have like 1km of ethernet cable so it's fine
bought that years ago from a tech shop that was shutting down, got all of it for like £70 ish cat 6e, pretty sweet
Ruckus disagrees
Please note that the SZ100 does not support Link Aggregation (LAG). However, the SFP+ ports can be connected to a switch, utilizing Spanning Tree Protocol (STP) on the switch to block one of the 10G ports. This provides a redundancy link as a workaround.
I hope this answers your query.
🤣
uncle ruckus gives networking advice now?!
Hey dudes! I need some quick networking advice because i have someone here setting up some wiring
I have a cat 6 cable being run, but rn on hand only have a cat 5 terminator. u know like the plastic plug u crimp on
will that be an issue? since it is all RJ45
The connector is not a big issue. CAT5 vs CAT6 is about the cable itself
I figured! I read something about there might be a deduction in speed because of how the wires might touch or something?
That's just bad termination at that point. Nothing to do with the connector, maybe just a crappy crimper or user error
But generally as long as the person terminating your cable runs is doing it right, you should be fine
With how ethernet works, you won't normally notice a "reduction" in speed so much as the link negotiation would be impacted by a poor connection. It's a digital signal; when it connects, it negotiates the fastest compatible link speed, like "Gigabit" or "100 Megabit." If the cable / plug is "bad", it'll negotiate a lower link speed.
So sounds like I should be fine
I can ask him when he comes back to finish other work to use the cat 6 connectors and switch it out
is it worth it? or dont bother
No difference between an rj45 connector on a cat 5 cable or cat6 cable
The jack is physically the same thing regardless of which cable is hooked to it but the shielding in the cable itself and arrangement of wires running through the cable (and length, loss/attenuation) are what effect the max transmission speeds on a given line.
stuff bellow Cat6 is not officially rated for 10 gigabit networking, but 5e for example is known to run 10 gigabit with reasonable lengths (<30m) just fine
I'm looking to set-up an openwrt travel router with a vpn.
Networking is not my thing, I was previously recommended proton vpn.
Just curious some recommended VPNs looking for good value / performance - I'll have to check for servers near my location.
I personally use Mullvad right now for just general use
Ah yeah we were talking back in 2024. I was essentially looking to find a way to isolate computer systems that I'm testing from my home network.
One of the recommendations you mentioned was a GL INet travel router with ProtonVPN.
I'm finally getting around to this now I was looking at the GLInet GL-AXT1800 since it appears to be faster + whichever VPN is worth it
Good to know
All you need is a firewall, hell even a decent router can do that
Yeah trying to keep it relatively simple and affordable - work with computer hardware but networking is not my thing.
I have a network switch that is connected to the main network router which is just the standard hub from our ISP.
Systems are built and tested using the network switch. That being said I have customers who bring their systems for service, and in some cases I need internet access to say windows update or troubleshoot something specific.
So main goal is having a way to isolate these customers systems from my main network.
Like I plug into specific ethernet ports on the network switch and it's just isolated. Which is why the little travel router idea didn't sound bad
If a new router is a better way to go - feel free to let me know any recommendations
Help needed, My Asus Wi-Fi 7 router i bought 2 months ago, it crashes and reboots whenever i start download a game from my ps5 or steam deck, anyone know why and if i can fix this easy? I set it to reboot every Wednesday to help clear it but even that doesn’t help.
Hi as I play around and figure out my home networking situation, I realized that in my routers admin control panel, every 30 seconds or so when I reload the page, the amount of channels in both my upstream and downstream change, from 5 to 2 or sometimes to even 0 and then back and forth and so on, seemingly randomly, is this a problem?
Possibly just a visual bug on the web end of things?
the xb8-t has 32 downstream and 8 upstream channels (though afaik comcast's only gives out 4 upstream channels in most regions). 5, 2, and obviously 0 channels is terrible. Your internet would be cutting out and lagging extremely often if this isn't just some visual glitch. You could try factory resetting it ig
These stats are fairly important to be able to see for a new installation, since it would help to determine if your cabling is good
That’s my worry tbh, idk when the drop cable is from and such
My thing is, my speeds are typically fine, except sometimes my upload will shit out, but my download is strong
My numbers were wrong, I didn’t see the list goes further bc I’m looking at it on my phone
Downstream gets a lot, upstream gets like 5 max
But sometimes when I refresh there are legit 1 or 2 of each, or even 0
But even when 0 appears I still get a download/upload speed so idk at all
If it really lost all channels you'd have a connection interruption. If it's only interrupted for a few hundred ms, many things could survive that albeit with some lag. If you do video calls, gaming, or anything else real time it will be pretty awful
Hmmm
Could that explain why sometimes on like a FaceTime call my phone swaps to cellular
Randomly
Bc otherwise I don’t notice many disruptions, only slightly maybe upload packet loss on games
old coaxial cables and/or splitters can become damaged. From lightning strikes and water damage to name some examples. A tech will have to come out and find which link is damaged, they'll charge you if it's inside your home but they won't if it's outside (i.e. their equipment).
Sometimes my upload speed drops from 25-30 to like 1mbps for an extended period of time which I haven’t been able to pinpoint yet, but also haven’t noticed in a while
What abt if it’s in the attic (afaik that’s where the isp coax line is)
the one line that comes from the outside would be their responsibility normally
Is there any chance that the line that comes from outside goes directly into my attic?
I’m in the US if that matters
It’s probably a very old line to be fair
I’d have to look outside my house I never really checked for a cable line
yes. I can't 100% confirm that that line is definitely comcast's side, but normally it would be. You could technically have the comcast drop only at the very edge your property and that coax line coming into your attic is actually yours too. afaik, it's normal for their line to go all the way into the home though. That's the case where I am, but I'm in a town home so it would be impossible for it to be any other way.
So is there a chance it can be replaced for free
Or likely no just because it’s in my house
yes. You can quicken the troubleshooting for the tech if you can connect the modem directly to the incoming line, though idrk if that's a realistic option where your line comes in. It would immediately indicate to them it's a problem on their side if there's an issue even when it's connected directly.
Their line going into your house is the one thing inside your house that's comcast responsibility. Although actually the modem is their responsibility is too, since it's a rental from them.
True
Okay I’ll look into it if I run into those upload speed problems again, because honestly my speeds are good I pay for like “up to” 1300 down and 35 up and typically on Ethernet receive 900down and 25 up
But here look at this
This is reloading at different intervals, it’s bizarre to me but also partially because I’m not exactly sure what I’m looking at
fr, DOCSIS? More like DOCSHIT
Costs more money to install and operate, but hey it can theoretically be so amazing! Just ignore the shoddy reality of coaxial cabling and sharing physical medium with all your neighbors
@nova glacier does this make any sense to you lol
Sooooo expensive. So many truckrolls for stupid issues and/or issues that will never be solved
No. I've never had a modem fluctuate in channels like that. I have 32+1 downstream and 4 upstream at all times. Your phone switching over to cell is definitely a sign this is an actual problem.
So you feel that it’s not an issue on the web page end and that it’s an actual malfunction in my router and/or line?
Idek what’s the first step to fix it lol
does the xb8-t not show your correctable/uncorrectable error counts? My modem's diag page shows counts for each channel so it's easy gauge if it's signal integrity problem
Yes it does but idk what that means
I’ll screenshot it one sec
Oh there’s a lot
It's normal to have some and the count won't reset unless the device reboots, so the absolute number isn't the most telling. It's how rapidly it's increasing
That’s what I got rn, does this mean anything or should I reboot and see how many appear in X amount of time
nah, you're good since it shows unerrored there too. Those look perfectly fine. The upstream side can only be checked by comcast though
although one of those channels looks fucked
but I don't think 1 of 32 is much of a problem
Given it's still tracking all the channel's errors, maybe it is just a glitch in the ui after all
When your channels do show up, those power levels and SNR listed are acceptable too
So what do you say I do with this information
Have comcast check the upstream?
And wdym with this
channel id 25 has nearly a 50% (correctable) error rate. It's technically fine as they were corrected, but that's still a bit odd
Unless it's a very clear problem they probably won't do anything about it tbh. A shite upstream with packet loss is just expected on comcast, although they are upgrading it to mid split docsis 3.1 in some regions. Your upstream channels were all 3.0 though. If your region is monopolized, don't hold your breath on getting that upgrade any time soon lol
Wdym 3.0
So basically Comcast is just mid and I have no choice lol
ATDMA is DOCSIS 3.0 upstream. OFDMA would be the DOCSIS 3.1 upstream type. You only have a DOCSIS 3.1 downstream channel, the OFDM one
welcome to the DOCSHIT experience
So basically with my upstream only having docsis 3.0 it can cause my inconsistent speeds?
What is docsis and why is it shit
It's a means to reuse existing coaxial cabling infrastructure that was already there for cable TV. These days it's actually more expensive to install and operate than fiber optics, which is why you might notice fiber internet is faster, more reliable, and yet actually cheaper.
it shouldn't really be a problem for bulk uploads that will last long enough to smooth out the inconsistency. It just will result in packet loss and general unreliability for real-time things like gaming, video/audio calling, or remote desktop. It's also just slow as shit, 35-40Mbps in 2025 is absurd
Wait could this be because I used an old wire that went from my satellite to my DVR but rerouted it into my attic to go from my main splitter to my receiver (after I got rid of satellite tv)
A coaxial cable that's protected from the elements should last quite a long time, but it's not impossible. One of the in-wall cables in my condo was water logged and corroded to shit, despite it being an interior wall that definitely should've been protected
^But could that really cause just random upload speed drops or likely there would be more issues
pretty sure your signal levels would've indicated a completely bad cable, but a bad connector could be more intermittent from random vibration and such ig
What do u mean
The cable is bad?
Would've indicated, but they don't indicate that
Because of the visual bugs in that admin panel which are likely false?
When the channel info is showing up, it's indicating a quite healthy signal integrity for downstream. >40dB SNR with power level near 0dBmV is very excellent. 45dBmV on upstream isn't all that good otoh (only comcast can check upstream SNR, so it's hard to fully gauge). You'd expect to see a bad signal for both down and up if the cable was bad
Alr got it, so basically the only way to explain upload speeds sometimes being meh is just Comcast being Comcast?
Well not necessarily, but probably. There are amplifiers in the street that can fail and they can fail for just upstream even if it's a single unit that amplifies both down and upstream. Only comcast can see the SNR and error rates of upstream. It's hard to know if upstream signal integrity is actually a problem based on the power level alone. Yours is in spec, just at the end of the acceptable range
So you think if I call or somehow get in contact with them I can get the upstream snr and error rates?
I doubt they'll tell you them unless the tech is extra friendly. They'll just let you know if it's out-of-spec or not
Usually their techs have no clue what they’re doing
So honestly not sure if I’d even be able to get to that point lol
But what would I even ask for over the phone or on the chat
just say what your experiencing, upload speed isn't always what you pay for and you have packet loss. They might make you do bullshit script steps like rebooting the modem, but you might be able to just ask if they can check the signal levels on their end. Depends on how much of a script reader the first level support agent you get is
Yeah I figured
It's something they can do remotely in a few minutes, so they shouldn't give you that much trouble once you get to the second level support agent
One time they needed me to spell Ethernet for them over the phone
Yo anyone know how to restore wifi on a pc? i need help
So would u say just leave it, or should I ask when he finishes the full job another day to swap the connector from Cat 5 to Cat 6 connector
It seems the standard only changed the connector's loss requirements with 6a so I would assume you're good with 5e rated connectors on cat 6
but also tbh unless your cable is near the max length, I highly doubt it would make a difference even on 6a
Yeah only difference from connector point of view is if it has more space for thicker wires and shielding or if is tight fit for getting wires in basically otherwise is same crimp into wire connector. Wouldn't worry about swapping em but probably good to just spot check if they don't have cable tester to make sure all the connections are good, different rj45s even for just Cat5e termination have more or less "wiggle" for the wires and for the plug in jack/keystone itself.
@nova glacier do these ohm terminator caps go on the coax wall outlets?
yes
Is it okay if the pins in them were bent on arrival
I just corrected them when I put them in
Ig they were rly cheap lol
yeah, it's fine as long as they don't break in the outlet ;p
Alr
Did I do this part right lol
That’s the main splitter, just wanna make sure I did the filter right
it should just be low pass filter which is bidirectional, though my ocd would do it that way too so I say that's the "right" way 😉
Wdym low pass filter
it passes frequency below 1002MHz where DOCSIS is. MOCA is above that
But it’ll work right?
yea
Alr
Do I have to ground this splitter??
The old one wasn’t and it’s in a spot where it’s almost impossible
You would need a lightning arrestor before it if you grounded it, so don't
and probably a ground loop isolator too. I honestly don't know what's "best practice" in this case, but I've never seen it done before so I assume it's more hassle than it's worth
No clue even what that is
Prob lol
Do I need to do anything besides press enable on the gateway moca settings
a path for a lightning strike to go to earth without fucking your equipment up, since grounding that splitter will create a nice path to ground for lightning to go
Makes sense
moca 2.0 should automatically connect up. Only 2.5 added MPS for a moderately more secure setup process
It looks like the new splitter helped the upstream power? One sec I’ll send a ss
It also looks like downstream power went up a little
Is this good or bad, looks like speeds are good if not better anyways
Got it I’ll try it out
there's gonna be some fluctuation that just happens over time. It's actually more ideal to be closer to 0dBmV for downstream but anything between -7 - +7 is good iirc, but SNR is more important and that's still excellent. Your upstream is improved though, less power is better in that case
Okay
Okay good
The coax light on the moca adapter isn’t lighting up
Oh it turned on when I enabled moca on the gateway, idk I guess it needed it
yes, sorry I just meant there's no setup process besides having it enabled
hope everything goes well cause I have a plane in the morning tomorrow so I'm heading to bed now
Everything works perfect thank you, safe travels
@clear igloo @waxen scroll One of my friends has my ISP's 10G service. He sees around 9.6Gbps on speedtest. According to the install tech his fiber runs all the way back to the NOC. It's not XGS-PON or passive in any sort. And the CPE they gave him matches that since the datasheet does not mention PON anywhere.
Which is interesting since my CPE is a XGS-PON ONT. So I wonder if new 10G services are XGS-PON and not carrier Ethernet all the way.
i'm still stuck here on cable while ATT fiber has been laid on the road ways outside my neighborhood for a while now.
Hi, I've got some pretty dumb/basic networking questions if anyone has a second?
Don't ask to ask.
Either ask or if it is indeed remarkably basic, ask in #1027757333117415424
Ok fair enough, thanks
I'm trying to incorporate 2.5GbE into my 1GbE network. I bought a switch and network adapter but couldn't get it to work
I'm not even sure if what I want to do is possible
I have 1Gb internet going into a modem that has a single 2.5GbE port. I plugged Cat5e into the 2.5GbE port and connected the other end to my 2.5GbE switch, then plugged another cable from the switch into my PC, but it wasn't having it
Theoretically that should just be a 2.5GbE network at that point
Problem is my DHCP server is on another device so I had to plug that in as well and that's only 1GbE
I could see half the network when it was all connected but nothing could get through to the gateway AKA the modem. Only 1 in like 8 pings went through
I think I have a dodgy switch but I just wanted to confirm it is possible to have 1GbE and 2GbE on the same LAN with no management
2.5GbE works perfectly directly from the modem/gateway to my adapter in the PC
And 1GbE worked perfectly through the switch
It was only when I changed over to 2.5GbE that issues started appearing
Apologies for the wall of text
Eh go ask in #1027757333117415424 and I'll reply, this is a back-and-forth kind of thing
Quick answer is probably that your cat5e cable isn't appropriate for this task
Alright sure
But in a nutshell, a single unmanaged LAN can support different speeds as long as the hardware is correct?
I don't need a management switch?
It can, yes. Depending on the circumstances.
A managed switch is not a requirement however.
Ok great, I'll pop this over to tech support after I blow up some more Terminators
Ok, I'm not hanging around though so that will be someone else's problem.
That's fine dude! Thanks for your help! You've helped by mentioning the cables!
My patch cables are cheap garbage, it could just have been that!
Didn't even think of it
As I said the long Cat5e works perfectly when it's directly into the back of the PC, it was just that going into the switch and then the patch cable from the switch to the PC that was the problem
So I'll buy some better patch cables
(and a new switch cause I sent the old one back lol)
Hey guys
Who can help with networks pls?
So I'm writing my own logger
Although more like a traffic sniffer
I have a question about how best and how to process application level protocols
I personally would be too lazy to parse the entire payload of a packet, or just the first lines, doesn't matter, because it's not always possible to understand what protocol it is, especially if it's not a text protocol like HTTP, but pure bytes in hex
I also thought that it is possible, for example, to look at the recipient's port inside of the tcp/udp protocol header
But other guy told me that this can only help indirectly cause protocols does not really depend on certain ports
Sooooo any suggestions please???
So why are you doing this? I mean is it for the sake of learning network protocols and programming with network interfaces or do you just want the thing that does what you're saying?
with regard to ports that are tied to specific functions or protocols, it's true you can basically use any port for making a connection and then can be using any higher level protocols on top of UDP or TCP for encryption or otherwise, but there are already apps that will do what you're saying to try and piece apart and let you filter out all the traffic too
its just a practice project if u r so curious about it
there is the list from IANA and some "typically used in practice" or defacto standard or actual standard ports for protocols like 80 for http or 443 for https or 22 for SSH https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_TCP_and_UDP_port_numbers
Thanks
However i think i can use it like a "hint" for my program, nothing more
Or port 1024 through 65535 for the nintendo switch 😂
fyi this is tipical dev response to a network admin asking which ports their software uses
all of them
i wanna make my own wifi network on proxmox is it possible
what
you want a ap?
Yeah, I was joking :P
i wasnt
my own wifi running on a connection to another router
Hi im looking for an 1Gbps router with customisable QoS do you have any recommendations?
ASUS RT-AX88U / RT-AX86U
Ty but arent they old or something? they dont sell on my countrys best eshop : c u got any other recommendations?
btw the eshop is Alza
I want it from there bc it will come tmrw
TP‑Link Archer BE550
Asus ROG Rapture GT‑BE98 Pro
tp link er605 or er707-m2 if you need 2.5g
the first one doesnt have customisable QoS if i see correctly and the second one is again not on the shop😭 sorry for complicating things guys but tysm for help
gimme a sec ill check
dw
def has it, i have it
this is where i prioritised game data
so that means you can prioritise games? Not just a port? Im sorry for not really understanding but im trying to learn : )
these are really expensive for my budget : (
i dont know anything else
it has bunch of them already "fingerprinted" so you just select them
it was introduced in relativly recent firmware update so that might be why people are saying it doesent have it
I found an ASUS GT-AX 11000 for 113 but has one broken antena. Is that worth it or is it a bad router or smt
So if i play things like fortnite, csgo, val i can prioritise them?
again sorry for asking so much questions
113 euro mb
Yes I’m pretty sure the 1.0 revision didn’t get it though, which was annoying
yep, they are already in the database
wow so if my family is downloading something and watching movies my internet will still run no problem?
like my games
should
they will get deprioritised
so thats the tp link er605?
yes, i have er605
nice, a month ago new firmware came out and i didnt realise
it comes with nice features
Thank you so much man today I got a new internet (200Mbit up and down with 3-5 ping) so im really happy : )
I live in a village so we dont have better options : (
But keep in mind that this is pure router and it doesn't have integrated access point, you can reuse old router for that or get a separate access point
where
Běloky in czech republic
Thank you : )
I have a question
Do I need a modem and a router? Rn i have this from mikrotik and if i buy smt new i dont really understand what i need.
do you guys think there's a device or smt that could boost mobile data reception that i could put on a vehicle?
not talking about those mobile Hotspot things
Idk what "SMT" means but yes, there are cellular boosters for your vehicle, or rather, for an RV / camper. Just keep in mind that a booster can only boost the signal available in the area. If the booster has better hardware / antennas than your phone and there's at least somewhat okay of a signal, it might help. But if the booster is cheap garbage or there's almost no signal at all, it's not going to help much.
Ah I see. Abbreviations are bad unless you know everyone is already aware of what they mean. (And even if people are aware, remembering a plethora of abbreviations is hard for some.) Anywho, thanks for clarifying.
Mikrotik hAP AX3 😈
Legit it's what I'd use but you'll find a small army of people here warning you away due to the UI complexity as if anything else similarly capable doesn't have its own idiosyncrasies
Oh look at that you literally own an RB951. Yeah if you know how to use it buy a hAP AX3 then, or an AX2 if the money's that tight.