#hardware-archived
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as an alternative
do you happen to know if a device exists that works like a friends of hue dimmer but fits inside a switch box so I can wire it to the original switch?
i never managed to get an analog dimmer switch to work with a micro module, so i didn't look for one.
I run HA so what i did was to use a zwave dimmer from fibaro (i hate zwave, so read until the end) with nothing connected to it and sync the brightness of it to the briightness of my HUE light through Home assistant.
With a shelly dimmer you can do that, but i have read some good work on tasmota for shelly dimmer, which might make thing easyer.
But i never had to thing about something without home assistant
Hi ppl, how do i install a sonoff mini here? Only + cable
I only have a power cable split in 2 in my manual switch
i never managed to get an analog dimmer switch to work with a micro module, so i didn't look for one.
I run HA so what i did was to use a zwave dimmer from fibaro (i hate zwave, so read until the end) with nothing connected to it and sync the brightness of it to the briightness of my HUE light through Home assistant.
With a shelly dimmer you can do that, but i have read some good work on tasmota for shelly dimmer, which might make thing easyer.But i never had to thing about something without home assistant
@humble lion yeah unfortunately the client (and it's the same for me tbh) wants redundancy, so that if HA is down for whatever reason he can still turn on/off the lights
https://en.robbshop.nl/inbouwdimmer-hue-zigbee-400w-robb-smarrt-3296
@humble lion thank you!
@fringe moon do you recommend using mqtt or pushing directly to ha?
ref. what @humble lion just wrote?
Whatever suits you fine
Hmm, wierd. I had do move the server and cot some issues with the Conbee 2 stick. Now it's up and running. However, when i listen for deconz_event i get the event number but an outomation, which uses the samme id and such, does not work?
Did you post about that earlier, over in #automations-archived, where it's on topic ๐ค
The pro (for me) is that mqtt will allow you to get the data on other device without going through HA, and if HA is down you can have it remember the last value and send it when ha is back up.
The con is that mqtt is another thing in the middle, and you will have to create a mqtt sensor in your config.
really you do what you want, if everything go throug MQTT, it's rational to send this also
i have no mqtt so far ๐
then really don't bother to pop a broker, it's not worth it
@humble lion can i create several long-lived access tokens?
and should this run as my user?
(ie. admin user)
you can create as many as you want
I have a little over a hundred mqtt devices, I'm going to expose my instance via SSL soon
So I can make cool internet based stuff
I've had HA exposed to the Internet since shortly after I started
Unless you somehow disable all the authentication or do other daft things it's fine
Can anyone recommend sensors that work with Home Assistant? I'm curious if there are some that would still work if the internet goes out.
currently only have a Hue hub, but am thinking about getting a z-wave usb stick as well to cover both protocols
No hue hub? I'm not sure how I can currently connect to anything z-wave. forgive my ignorance ๐
Well, the Hue is Zigbee
So you'd replace it with one of the three #zigbee-archived integrations
Ah yes, I should clarify - I figure I need the hue hub to connect to other zigbee items. And then a Z-wave compatible USB stick to cover z-wave. I've got hue bulbs now.
by zigbee integrations, do you mean like SmartThings
lmao
I just cannot wrap my head around this
Naughty cloud ๐
There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:
deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are support. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended, but there are other options. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively, with no native UI. It uses MQTT for control and configuration, but there are third party UIs. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the Zig-Ah-Zig-Ah! and Slaesh's sticks being recommended. The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and adding unsupported devices is also documented.
oh the actual protocols, lord I don't know. I just have HA installed on my Synology
interesting, maybe I'll add that to docker. Should I do the same for z-wave
I'd love to get rid of the hub
IMO yes, though Z-Wave is expensive
I've got both, and I'll be buying only Zigbee going forwards - other maybe than multi-sensors, but buying multiple Zigbee sensors is still cheaper than one Z-Wave multi-sensor
https://sensative.com/sensors/strips-zwave/guard/ is the only other good reason to go Z-Wave
I was leaning towards zigbee, but I've read that if the internet goes down then your system is SOL
but maybe that is just for cloud based apps
Naughty cloud ๐
That's just for cloud based stuff
but I guess my question is, how can I run z-wave items without a USB dongle or something else to communicate with that protocol?
My Zigbee mesh ran fine when I lost my Internet service for a few days
You need a USB "dongle"
It's a radio
I don't know how one survives losing their Internet service for a few days
Badly
I've also read about the Sonoff RF sensors, would you still recommend zigbee over those
Yes
RF ๐คข
They're usually uni-directional, so if they stop reporting you don't really know
I don't know how one survives losing their Internet service for a few days
@gloomy spoke you go out and say Hello to the sun then maybe mow the yard or go to a park
What?
What kind of nutter are you @runic drift
Sun == cancer ball - everybody knows that
vitamin d deficiency is no joke
but...stuff is happening and I must know about it
ok casper lol
but...stuff is happening and I must know about it
@gloomy spoke they still make what is called a "newspaper" lol
that's only what happened "yesterday"
To install qigbee2mqtt, would I need a Ti stick, or is running it from docker sufficient?
Thanks
@thin otter FWIW I've had a great experience with my hue hub. Not sure what @winged knoll had trouble with
However, I do still have a Zigbee stick
phew, I was this close to buying a CC26X2R1
I have one for other sensors, buttons, etc
Thankfully hue works locally (i.e., without internet)
Just don't firmware upgrade it ๐
interesting, maybe I'll try Hue after I get some buttons and motion sensors
oh man my hue bridge has been updated I think
No you're fine
Nah, you should be fine
If you root it don't upgrade the firmware lmao
But my second one spent 24 hours "upgrading" the firmware and was a brick afterwards
Samsung smartthings buttons connected to my Zigbee stick
That entire line of sensors, buttons, etc. is actually quite nice and work great with the zigbee integrations
How do I troubleshoot a zigbee door sensor? Itโs showing up in HA but always showing closed. This is the first thing Iโve had not โjust workโ, not sure where to start.
Smart light switches that work with HA but aren't tuya or require internet that work without hacking firmware
Does such a thing exist?
@hidden frost you "convert" dumb switches to smart switches with something like a Shelly or Sonoff that will check all those boxes
@hidden frost tp-link switches
anybody had any luck getting a broadlink rm3 mini added to home assistant? i just got one and it is on my wifi and I can ping it but home assistant cannot find it.
Yeah I've got one. Did you connect it to the cloud in the app? @hot schooner
i only used the app to get it on wifi. I have tried 3 different apps to just get it on wifi and they all do but i still cannot get home assistant to talk to it.
i read on the internet and i don't know if this is true but their might be 2 different firmwares for this device. I might have the chinese firmware and the one i need is the internation firmware. I don't know if that is real or even how to check what firmware i have on it.
Hi all, I was hoping could help, I cannot get USB0 up inside Home Assistant? Using a Pi4 Home assistant latest version ( that's where USB port lost), latest HA version, any ideas
All ok found it, on the floor, must of fell out lol
Hi All, i'm looking into locally controlling my shutters using the shelly 2.5 module flashed with tasmota. Has anyone got this to work? When i try to set up the configuration in tasmota my power readings all remain 0 no matter which load i attach to it. Is it possible to share your configuration/experiences?
Hi, does anyone uses the old phone like Xperia z1 as a display buttons, mov sensor and camera? in a wall replacing old switchs?
the xperia z1 is very easy to disasemble, put the screen in one place and back camera in front without break the cables ๐
I've seen people repurpose phones and tablets like that, but most often without disassembly. Just some sort of a frame works to make it look nice. There was a good example in the latest #announcements
ahah to locks very nice, I think if I can desasemble and do a good frame, it can feel apropriate ๐
512GB microSD card for 95 USD (best buy deal of the day): https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-512gb-microsdxc-uhs-i-memory-card/6356777.p?skuId=6356777
Yeah yeah, I know @winged knoll ๐
The one time I forget
banned
AFAIK Broadlink are the "go to" solution @dense wing - what's the reason you want something else?
DIY is one option
there's always an alternative https://templates.blakadder.com/misc.html
maybe this one would work better then https://templates.blakadder.com/szmdlx_ZYY.html ๐
But blakadder's list seems good
you could use a ESP-01S with an Adapter and stick a IR transmitter. Full blown DIY https://www.amazon.com/IZOKEE-Wireless-Transceiver-Mega2560-Raspberry/dp/B07D49MSTM/ref=pd_sbs_147_5/144-1727624-5500019?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07D49MSTM&pd_rd_r=2b23a645-71ef-4762-82ef-b18bbf559284&pd_rd_w=9c3H5&pd_rd_wg=SxRF0&pf_rd_p=703f3758-d945-4136-8df6-a43d19d750d1&pf_rd_r=DM7W1CHMAZTG5099WFX6&psc=1&refRID=DM7W1CHMAZTG5099WFX6
so in doing more research, it looks like Lutron Caseta is RF and not zigbee ๐ญ
I don't want more hubs
use RF than ๐
Hi need help with lundix spc gateway on home assistant , thanks
@fossil brook Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.
When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:
- What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
- What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
- Is the problem uniform or erratic?
- What's the exact error message?
- When did it arise?
- What exactly don't you "get"?
- Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?
Are there any ways to control FireTV other than through the Android TV/ADB integration which I have found to have a delay between sending the command on home assistant and my FireTV reacting
Ok I don't really care about that anymore
But I am trying to figure out if there is any way that anything can be triggered using the power and volume buttons on my Firestick 4K remote so that I can use that for the power state of the TV
your TV may need to be a smartTV
someone stop me from making a poor decision
i'm about to buy one of innovelli's LED switches, a z-wave usb stick, a zigbeeqt TI, and a caseta switch to test them out
I'm super interested in trying innovellis LED status indicator
You need the lutron bridge for Caseta stuff btw
I'm constantly seeing this in the log - If I search for the device_tracker under 'STATES' it isn't there. I checked on the DHCP client list and determined it is an Unifi AP which is connected via wireless uplink. Where can I set its configuration to make the warning go silent. ERROR (MainThread) [homeassistant.components.device_tracker] The see service is not supported for this entity device_tracker.<mac address>
Does anyone know how to change the default state of an Aqara LLKZMK11LM switch? When powering it on, it turns off the lights, but i would want it to turn them on. I tried connecting live to S1 or S2, but it does not change the behavior..
link to wiring diagram: https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1fybPRFYqK1RjSZLeq6zXppXaM.jpg
While it might be possible to write an automation to do this from homeassistant, i want it to be as fast as possible, and for it to work even if homeassistant is down.
seems like a sane default.. why would want to change that?
how often do you cut power to that thing thats this even matters in any way
unless you mean something else with powered on
well my ikea bulbs do behave like that. Having off by default makes my normal switches (in the wall) useless
having on by default means that i don't need a phone or a zigbee remote to turn the lights on/off, i can just use the switch in the wall. just turn off, then on, and the lights are on.
why cant you using that?
isnt it just a remote controlled relay that can also be operated by a physical switch?
i can't put the relay behind the switch, it sits next to the bulb
so in the ceiling i have wire -> relay -> bulb
this means turning the wall switch off cuts power to the relay.. and i don't want to add another with just for this (or make a hole in the wall to fit the relay)
isnt it just a remote controlled relay that can also be operated by a physical switch?
@cosmic girder regarding this, i tried connecting live to S1 on the relay.. i thought that would make it think that the switch is on, and turn on... am i misunderstanding how it should work?
Chinese. Just the wiring diagram in the link above, from the aliexpress page
Any conveyor belt controllers with modbus or the like recommended for Home Assistant?
i haven't seen anything. sounds like something more the #diy-archived speed
would think a conveyor belt controller would just be a glorified dimmer switch
Hi, I'm new to HA. I have added my Panasonic TV and it shows in the cards, but when I press the power button on the card then it switches the TV off and turns the card grey. I can't interact with it anymore, and it says it's switched to unavailable. If I turn the TV back on with the remote it stays unavailable. Why?
That sounds like a topic for #integrations-archived
probably a stupid question: i've got a temperature sensor which updates fairly frequently. I enabled a stats sensor on top of it, but.. well.. it stays in "unknown" no matter how many updates the temp sensor has had.
sensor:
- platform: statistics
name: livingroom_temperature_stats_2h
entity_id: sensor.livingroom_temperature
max_age:
minutes: 120
count: 0
mean: unknown
median: unknown
standard_deviation: unknown
variance: unknown
total: unknown
min_value: unknown
max_value: unknown
min_age: 2020-09-22T12:12:47.813387+00:00
max_age: 2020-09-22T12:12:47.813387+00:00
change: unknown
average_change: unknown
change_rate: unknown
friendly_name: livingroom_temperature_stats_2h
icon: mdi:calculator```
min and max ages are the same ๐ค
min_age: 2020-09-22T12:13:39.428210+00:00
max_age: 2020-09-22T12:20:14.765387+00:00
``` is one of mine (I probably should fix that, 7 minutes is a bit short)
yeah, i don't get it why it's not updating
i've used this before
unless the statistics reload doesn't work.. might try restarting HA
can confirm. Restarted HA, all the statistics nodes started working
Does HA support the tilt (3 axis) feature of SmartThings multipurpose sensor without the SmartThings integration? I have the HUSBZB-1 installed and recognized/configured with HA
Sounds like you want to ask in #zigbee-archived @cursive junco - I'm guessing you're using zha, so it'll be good to confirm that over there if you are
@winged knoll tks...again lol
anyone running this device?
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/412015.html
Legrand DIN power consumption module
I installed it and added it to HA but it reports power consumption at 0W
#zigbee-archived would be a good place to ask
you're right, my bad
Anyone have any experience with Infinitude/ Carrier Infinity Thermostats? I have one and have been reading through the documentation, but have not had too much luck/am unsure if I need additional hardware. Thanks
Do a search here in Discord. Somebody got it working over the weekend
OH REALLY!
RLY
Thanks @gloomy spoke - found it!
Np. It wasnโt trivial, but certainly possible
Hey! Can I have a bash script which enables my smart plug? I want it to turn on when I play music (I can define hooks there)
Does it make a difference in latency ... to use maybe available options? Would be nice if it was very fast
I have no script yet - it the question whether itโs possible
Yes, I use them ๐
Oh... sorry
They will be a touch slower than native, because the shell has to start
Hmm maybe MQTT then?
There are integrations you can use that handle webhooks/URLs though
Hmm I can only start a script afaik
My plug is called switch.on_off_plug_in_unit_5 ... so I suppose I have to call it through the Hass app? Using Core here
I think I am missing the correct keywords I havenโt found any examples
If it's a switch you just use switch.turn_on
Yeah but how do I get Linux to talk to HA?
Webhook trigger in an automation
So there is not a direct API for the Shell?
The XY problem is asking about your attempted solution rather than your actual problem. This leads to enormous amounts of wasted time and energy, both on the part of people asking for help, and on the part of those providing help.
The problem occurs when people get stuck on what they believe is the solution and are unable to step back and explain the issue in full.
There's no shell API because it's not designed for that
But what you've said so far doesn't explain why you want that
Okay. My automation should do this: I start playing music onto my Raspberry Pi with SharePoint-Sync (Airplay) - the application can start scripts before playing the music - the bash script should enable my smart plug so the speaker gets powered on.
So the way to do it: Install the integration Webhooks and then write into that script a curl command to switch the automation inside HA, correct?
Well, use a webhook trigger in #automations-archived and have the script curl that
Aight thanks!
There is also https://github.com/home-assistant-ecosystem/home-assistant-cli, but my experience is that it'd be a lot slower
Oh okay... thanks
Hey guys. I have just installed and have been having fun learning. I edited my config file to add my Yamaha Receiver and its working. I am trying to figure out how to add a volume slider and have read through several forum articles and am not grasping it. Anyone feel like helping out?
Anything in the UI is on topic in #frontend-archived ๐
Should just be the case of adding an appropriate media card
@winged knoll thank you
hello guys
sorry not related to HA necessarily but may I ask which smart power plug and which IP camera ( in the budget segment) you has experience with, or can recommend?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
nah, right now I need something separate which works on its own
do you recommend to read the #cameras-archived topic or I can go ahead and ask
Well, ask over there, but if you want purely stand-alone you need to say that - see the bot message ๐
Of course, "stand-alone" usually means tied to some cloud service
alright, thank you.
Regarding the power plug:
- Which country you're in - Hungary
- What your budget is - Around 55 EUR ( I need at least 2 socket, or a power strip)
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave) - Standalone for now, if it can be integrated later it is also great but not a necessity
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc) - Power monitoring is nice but not mandatory, can a power socket dim? If yes that would be also nice as I would plug a lamp into one of them
Well, "standalone" will mean WiFi, since it'll use some proprietary cloud service
ah, alright
Hey guys. I have a couple Leviton wall switches. I can control them through the generic Overview page . The outside garage lights there is a toggle for them, works great. I cannot add them to any automation, they arent listed as a device. WHen i look at the device in Configuration / Entities, I see the device, but it is read only and says "This entity does not have a unique ID, therefore its settings cannot be managed from the UI." Can these not be used in automation?
Taking the second question first...
The answer to the first question would be #automations-archived - and yes you can, just not using device triggers/actions
Standard state triggers and service calls work just fine ๐
I kinda wish that it was just one giant list of devices and entities, rather than creating some arbitrary distinction that most users don't care about
"Do I want to use a device or entity?" 
Ah cool, thanks. big learning curve. My first day
Well, Devices are very new (in HA terms)
And not every integration can support them, even if the devs wanted to
sure, point is that they want to trigger on "something", so list of things that can be triggered on ๐
That sounds like advanced thinking
many folks don't find their thing in the list with the default type of "device" and think "discord"
Here are the things you can use, what would you like to do with them
rather than
What would you like to do first
or "I give up"
Not sure this advanced thinking will catch on...
Well its strange, when you think trigger, you think this will cause the action to happen
if the "State" is a trigger, kinda confused me
It's worth taking a read through the automation docs, it explains all the (non-device) things, and how they work
Trรฅdfri or hue?
I am in need of a few decent expensive (prefer zwave or zigbee) humidity and motion sensors for bathrooms. Any recommendations?
@gloomy spoke I think that would be a great idea and since the latest release allow you to see any thing that a particular card that you are creating can control, your suggestion definitely seems in reach.
Anyone else get the Nest Device Access Console email today?
Haven't had a chance to explore yet but hopefully it provides improved capabilities for home automation hobbyists
Oh lol they want a 1 time non refundable $5 fee to sign up
@rotund dragon Xiaomi's sensors are great.
@chilly iris Are they flashed with tasmoto?
zigbee
cool I will look into them
oh dang. i see the nest protect isn't a "supported device"
that's the second time that's been posted on the screen
Spend $250 on a thermostat, they take away the api and then want to charge you $5 more to get it back
And in my defense wasnt on screen on mobile. Ill check next time. That aliexpess link pushed it out of view.
Id pay 5 bucks. Better than dropping 100 more dollars on a zwave device.
Id pay 5 bucks to get an old school api key
So far the badnest integration serves my purposes well enough. If I had something I couldn't do that I really wanted to id pay $5
Ive cut bait with badnest. Thankful to the devs for getting it running but I had issues with it. Mainly having to re-login after 30 days or so. Weird errors in my ha logs. Fear of it stopping working and not investing in ha based automations because of the uncertainty around the protobuf api.
Original developmer seems to have stoped maintaining it as well. I used some of the forks. But they also suffered from some of the issues that caused me to stop integrating my thermo with HA.
Is Inovelli Red the way to go if I want a switch to control smart bulbs?
Yep, I'd rater pay $5 than faff around in an inspection window every few weeks to get a new token.
Hi guys, im looking for a NUC to host my home assistant
i got like 4 cameras and would like to do some object detection as well
would something like this works?
https://www.amazon.ca/Beelink-Computer-Windows-x5-Z8350-1000Mbps/dp/B07K6H6XVN
atom cpu's are kind of shit imo
yeah, they're not great
find a J Celeron one
I see
what about something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/Beelink-T34-M-Windows-Computer-Ethernet/dp/B08D96HGX8/
like for $30 more
I can't tell if 150 us for a 2016 cpu is a rip off or not lol
so thats like 90$ US?
no it's 150 us, that link said 189cad lol
well 140ish something to be clear
im gona wait for a deal but thanks for letting me know that i should stay clear off ATOM cpus
outside of my budget, but ill try to scour the used market for one
Has anyone done a project for the kids rooms where they have a light switch that is disabled between certain hours? (i.e., 9pm to 7am)
Not me but seems like it would be relatively straightforward whether you went with a smart bulb or a switch
Do you have one picked out?
Switches usually control loads directly, so completely disabling a switch may be difficult. A plug-in module for a lamp might help
No, I don't have one picked out yet. I would prefer to control it at the switch rather than at the bulb (it's a ceiling fan/light kit combo)
Shelly 1pm on light switch or Shelly 2.5 on both light and ceiling in detached switch mode. You can even accomplish what you want through the onboard firmware without even needing to go through something like HA
A question not really HA relevant. But can someone recommend a router best suitable for home automation?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
But also, what do you mean by that? I mean, my router (Fritz!Box) doesn't get in the way, and I can even control parts of it with the various integrations for it
It doesn't do automation though (well, it does, but I don't use it, that'd be crazy)
The 2.4 ghz WiFi on my current ASUS AC88-u stopped working. I assume some defect while 5ghz still works.
Iโm in the planning to move to a new apartment and also want to separate the IOT-network
Reading a lot about ubiquiti but they are kind of expensive
And only Switches if I read correct
Thought about Fritz!Box too, just wasnโt sure if they can provide several WiFi networks the way I want (like still let me control the IOT devices while my phone sit in another WiFi)
They do also have a Guest Network feature
The Asus ZenWifi stuff I've got (that I'm using just as access points for WiFi) also support multiple WiFi networks
And only Switches if I read correct
@odd walrus they have switches, routers (usg, udm), access points
It's what I use
Another option, albeit with a steeper learning curve, is mikrotik
As for price, yeah they're expensive
Even if the Udm is pretty well priced for their standards imho
@smoky moth Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Does anyone know if a smart powerplug with PoE exists that doesn't have a wireless connection to the network?
Doesn't really sound like something made commercially, but I could be wrong
Thx @past canyon I will have a look at them again
@winged knoll Could you please help me out on the power socket matter too? ๐
or anyone
@oblique ruin Generally, don't tag people to ask for help - it comes across as bad manners, youโre demanding somebody answers you. Itโs different if youโre thanking somebody, obviously. If you do tag somebody keep it polite and respectful. Remember that everybody is a volunteer, and nobody has to help you, and people may block you.
Similarly, please donโt DM (direct message) people asking for help. It also comes across as demanding, and means that others canโt learn from what you do.
Finally, please keep tagging people in replies to a minimum. That too can become annoying very quickly and should be used only when it's necessary (such as if it's been a long time, or there's multiple conversations going on).
"the power socket problem" is damned vague though
๐คซ
oh, I already posted it, I thought you remember, my bad
- Which country you're in - Hungary
- What your budget is - Around 55 EUR ( I need at least 2 socket, or a power strip)
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave) - Standalone for now, if it can be integrated later it is also great but not a necessity
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc) - Power monitoring is nice but not mandatory, can a power socket dim? If yes that would be also nice as I would plug a lamp into one of them
Need it for a Solenoid valve and an Aquarium Light (turn off, turn on remotely, in a specific time etc.)
Well, you want standalone, which means WiFi, and I wouldn't touch that with a ten foot pole ๐
Zigbee FTW
Recently getting error with DMX lights no longer working. Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
error: This entity does not have a unique ID, therefore its settings cannot be managed from the UI
That helps me understand the error message. Still have problem with DMX no longer working. Just wondering if others are having issues or if it is something with my system. Or any fixes for this.
what about Philips Hue Smart Plug EU?
that can be used with hue app and also with zigbee
or which zigbee device would you suggest?
I'd ask in #integrations-archived @sour stone - with details of any errors/warning in your log file - and check the open issues list
I'd get an Ikea Tradfri plug if you wanted a cheap one, but you'll need a Hue Hub to use the Hue app, or a Tradfri Hub to use their app
As I said before, you want something standalone, that means their service rather than HA
You always need something for it to talk to, whether that's another hub, a cloud service, etc
I understand
by the way Tradfri can be used with Philips Hue Hub (temporarily ) right?
Would be interesting to see if this works with HomeKit Controller: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-wi-fi-garage-door-controller-for-apple-homekit-white/5933701.p?skuId=5933701
If so, it could be a potential replacement for everyone struggling with myq and would be more reliable since it would have local control
And for anyone who doesn't want to go the DIWHY route
๐
or does Shelly Plug S works well with HA?
Since it supports mqtt and esphome and tasmota, I don't see why not
thanks
because the other options would be the Philips Hue switch and the TP-LINK HS100 or HS110
or if I can get my hand on the Ikea Tradfi which was recommended by Tinkerer
Does anyone have solar panel controller recommendations?
cough
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Right... EU, relatively cheap as it'll be low power setup, no protocol preference. Just looking at different options right now
Mostly just opinions from people who have these installed to avoid any pitfalls
After some reading, the EPever stuff seems quite interesting. A bit of a pain to integrate apparently, but seems possible https://github.com/gabrielpc1190/Home-Assistant_EPEver-eBox-Wifi-01-MODBUS/
Hi All, i'm using tasmota to automate my rolling shutters in my house. To do this i use a Shelly 2.5 module, however when i got to the console to try and set shuttermode 1. I get this response: 17:53:50 CMD: ShutterMode 1
17:53:50 MQT: stat/Shutter/RESULT = {"Command":"Unknown"}
i have tried everything i could imagine but can't quite figure out why the command is unknown
Ready to use custom firmware for ESP8266 devices (including Sonoff)
Docs:
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/
Discord:
https://discord.gg/Ks2Kzd4
I'd try their Discord
i fixed it already, thanks i wasn't aware they had a discord!
for some reason, my dining room light duplicated in hass.
The original entity, light.dining_room_light no longer works, but light.dining_room_light_2 does work.
I can't figure out how to remove the first one and rename the second, because instead of getting the option to delete entity, I get
This entity does not have a unique ID, therefore its settings cannot be managed from the UI.
I've purchased 2 sets of ikea fyrtur blinds that came bundled with a repeater. Is the repeater worth hanging onto? I've already got around 20 zigbee bulbs repeating signal throughout the house, and the blinds are already hooked up to the button using deconz and node red. I just wonder if they have any other use, or if I just throw them on ebay
If you've already got a load of repeaters, you don't need them
I figured as much but I'm grateful for the confirmation!!
Hey guys, I have a sonoff D1 dimmer switch which keeps turning itself on every couple of hours and stays on until I turn it off. I have not flashed Tasmota. Any ideas why this would be happening?
always popular
cloud access is flaky, but you can also use the Homekit Controller integration of HA to talk to them locally
With limited functionality, but yes, that's what I do
moved question #cameras-archived
I have a deep freezer in my garage. I'm looking for some sort of plug I can plug it into that I could somehow monitor so I know if a breaker has tripped and it no longer has power. Some sort of wifi plug that I could monitor with ping or something? Any suggestions?
I actually have a smart plug that I can monitor with ping, looking for alternative options that I might not have thought of
I think anything like that will require power to function. I address that with a temp sensor in the freezer and alerts when it gets too high.
that's why I was thinking ping, if the device doesn't have power, it would drop off the wifi
and ping would fail
another project I'm looking at, maybe you can recommend a device for this...Some sort of sensor that can monitor temperature/humidity/(and possibly gforce) that can work from within a safe...trying to turn a dumb gunsafe into a smart gunsafe ๐
even though I have extremely strong wifi coverage, i have my doubts that it would work inside the safe...I can potentially get an ethernet cable inside the safe, so wired options could be a possibility
@harsh portal should test the wifi aspect because something like this would work perfectly https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-door-window-2-smart-home-automation-sensor/
Hey all, has anyone got there Sonos media library working? i.e Accessing spotify from a sonos within HA? Thanks!
I'm running broadlink IR which allow me to control most of my IR device. However is there away for HASS to check the states of each device periodically? if yes can someone share a code on how to? SmartIR showing binary_sensor.ac_power for example.. now how could I do this? Thanks
@last jackal ir has no states, you would need a smart switch to read power state
Hello Community, There is anybody here who have Xiaomi AX1800 Router?
@subtle flame what is the actual question?
@subtle flame Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.
When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:
- What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
- What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
- Is the problem uniform or erratic?
- What's the exact error message?
- When did it arise?
- What exactly don't you "get"?
- Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?
I would like to know in the DDNS service which providers can you select.
I would like to buy one but didnt found the answer on google.
You don't have to run the ddns service on the router
I know i dont have to but I want.
and there is an option to that in the router, I just dont know which providers are in the list.
If you want a router with any option you ever could need, just install opnsense on a 1-10 year old machine
thats not really the answer im looking for ๐
it's a better answer ๐คฃ
but, yeah, unless it is stated in the manual
you could contact user support
They don't even seem to publish a manual you can download
yes i didnt found anything about this.
I tried also check a lot of pictures, maybe somebody clicked to "Add" in the DDNS menu ๐
I try live chat on Mi support site.
I try to ask again something, there was no answer last time: There is any feedback status led or something what is battery powered and using Wi-Fi?
I want a home made alarm system, and only thing what is missing is a feedback led if its alarmed or not. I have no power in the hall.
Battery powered and WiFi .... generally not a combination you'll see due to the fact that the battery won't last long enough
I'm adding my old alarm sensors to a nodemcu
but I'm also running it off 230v
and a ac-dc converter
understood, then I'll try to get some power ๐
If you can run a network cable you can use anything that's PoE or USB powered

hei people.
anyone here has experience with DIY sensors for (based on ESP) for temp / humidity?
#diy-archived does
Is it possible to secure a particular device so that it can't be (accidentially) activated by users. Let's say I have a roller shutter which I alone should be possible to open and close. I noticed in the nabu casa config that one can set a pincode for security devices. Maybe it is possible to earmark the mentioned roller shutter as security device? Thanks!
Not as such, but are you talking about in the UI or what?
in UI but also in combination with Google assistant
For the latter, your only choices are:
- Don't expose them
- Expose something else, like a boolean, and use automations to decide if it should be operated
For the UI, see #frontend-archived
o/
hey all, I've just picked up a few teckin bulbs, but want to get switches to control them... I'm having some trouble figuring out what exactly I need
it seems a zigbee or zeave device would be my better option into the future
but I'd also like to make sure whatever I get is also compatible with any bulbs I buy later as well
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Well, you don't attach smart bulbs to switches ๐
aha, so that's what I need to know lol
If you're indirectly controlling them, using HA, then anything will work
sure
IMO smart bulbs/lights belong in things not connected to wall switches
Make the wall switch smart otherwise, not the bulbs - it's cheaper too ๐
Yes, including things like the Philips Warm-Glo bulbs that become warmer as they are dimmed
Sure, but you'd need to disconnect the bulbs from the physical switch
ahhh, that makes sense
That or be very careful in your automations, since when you want to control the lights you'll need to turn the switch on, then wait for the lights to reconnect, then act on them
is that something that's solved by using a switch with a neutral wire?
No, because you're still cutting power to the bulb
gotcha
Hence why many folks here will tell you never to connect smart bulbs to smart switches, or ideally any wall switch humans will interact with
If those are Z-Wave or Zigbee bulbs then cutting power to them can screw up your mesh too ๐
Especially dimmers
haha well you guys have been very helpful ๐ I was a bit backward lol
Yeah, connecting a smart bulb to a dimmer is gonna be fun ๐
For some definitions of fun.
on my bulbs right now, I have the circadian lighting set up
are there any bulbs that would do that?
The Philips Warm-Glo bulbs warm when they're dimmed
Otherwise, no, dumb bulbs are generally, well, not smart
Does anyone know if there is a UK/EU no neutral Switch apart from the Sonoff T4 (1 way/1 gang)? Cheers
Any valid alternative to the Shelly RGBW2 or should I just buy a bunch?
so a simple smart switch with a standard bulb, I could set up just on/off with the switch and have brightness controls even without a dimmer switch?
also, I could pretty much have any switch control any light?
I have one particular double switch in my house that one switch controls nothing ๐ so I could make that switch control my lamp for example?
The smart switch would also need to have dimming capability
ah ok
but the basic rule is a smart switch shouldn't be on anything that should be "always on"?
Correct
An exception would be smart switches that you can flash with Tasmota and decouple the relay from the button, but for typical use what you said is correct
ah, yeah I haven't looked into that at all
Hey All, quick question I have an Insteon Motion sensor on my patio that's connected to Home Assistant Via a Universal Devices ISY 994i This device also has a Dusk, Dawn sensor driven by light detection. But the sensor seems to be inverted in HA. saying no light detected in the morning. and detected light in the evening. How can I invert this sensor?
Make a template sensor, probably a template binary sensor
Okay, I was hoping I could just customize the existing entity but I can make a template.
Thanks!
Np
hi, I have a question about MQTT Device Triggers.
I made a custom sensor with an esp8266. I was able to configure the device with auto discovery and the trigger worked as expected. but then I had to change the payload and now it doesn't work any more-
Ok, I fixed it by deleting the device in HA and adding it again.
seems the innoveli reds have the option to NOT cut power to the bulb, that seems like what I want
do florescent lights work with a dimmer?
do florescent lights work with a dimmer?
@gloomy sequoia no
lol
Hello, I have an issue with Aqara Vibration Sensor. I do not use Aqara Hub and discovered a sensor via Zigbee2Mqtt. It is well discovered and has all entities. The problem is that this is the oly sensor which is not integrating with HomeKit. I have many others discovered the same way and all of them are well visible in my Home app on iPhone, bot NOT THIS one. Any suggestions?
@brisk pulsar I have one, it works fine for me, but I dont touch homekit
@fringe moon does it mean it is well displayed in Home App for you?
In home assistant? Yes
@fringe moon I see it well in HA, I do not see it in HomeKit
Discord isn't like IRC, you don't have to tag people on every response. Keep in mind that every time you tag somebody, they get a notification ping. That can very quickly become annoying and people may block you.
@glossy prism is any switch tasmota capable? and is that something you have to physically modify the device?
or any wifi devices that let you control the relay without flashing?
I assume even with HA, I would need a switch that supports that
HI hopefully i am at the right place tried the integration of my broadlink RM pro with ip adress but always get an error message, has anybody managed the integration in HA
Questions about a device (not their #integrations-archived with HA)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff.
Please use https://www.hastebin.com/ or https://paste.ubuntu.com/ to share code or logs
Almost, you wanted #integrations-archived ๐
@gloomy sequoia devices with the ESP8266 line of chips support tasmota
but innoveli prob only ones with relay control ootb?
@gloomy sequoia those look like zwave so yeah
is that a zwave thing?
what about Shelly's?
I'm just seeing them now
hmm, maybe not
seems only one of their models works without a neutral wire... which I don't have in three switches so far ๐ guess I'll be having to go with a WiFi switch anyways
My philips tv doesnt support jointspace when i go to http://ip-address:1925 it says forbidden
I can control it from the philips tv remote 2.0 app on android
Is there a way to integrate this tv in HA?
The type is 55PUS6703
@gloomy sequoia ESP8266 are wifi chips
so what about... does any device flashed with tasmota allow disabling the relay? that's a tasmota feature, not a device one, in that case?
ok cool, that may be workable
tasmota feature
tough to flash?
tasmota feature
look up tuya-convert... some devices that say they use the Smart Life/Tuya Smart app support being flashed with tasmota/ESPHome over the air
cool, I saw that but wasn't sure if tuya-convert would be same as tasmota
tuya-convert is a method of flashing tasmota/ESPHome
yeah, unfortunately it's getting harder to find devices that still support tuya-convert
ahh, how come?
it's an exploit that the manufacturer (Tuya) has been patching
there is a light - https://templates.blakadder.com/preflashed.html
or using different chips that tasmota/ESPhome don't support
but ESP devices that can't be tuya-converted can still be manually flashed via serial
@zealous dune yeah that is cool, but i always get such a rush from tuya-converting stuff ๐
your supply is running low ๐คฃ
i prefer serial flashing, can't beat those flux fumes
yeah it really is... i've been very lucky lately though
i do actually enjoy soldering though
haven't convertend anything since march... but i do tend to get the newest devices for the site
yeah i just see soldering as my fallback option if TC doesn't work
i was mostly busy removing new nonESP modules and replacing them
it is fun and exhilarating but long ways off from tuya convert
man I'm not having any luck here: https://templates.blakadder.com/switch.html with finding switches with no neutral wire ๐ซ
search for "+no +neutral"
does eu/us make a significant difference?
ofcourse
ah yeah, not a single one listed for us
you guys can pull neutral through your hollow walls anyway
i need deep knowledge of masonry and painting to do that
yeah that's not for me lol
Any suggestions for a dimmer? For uk I'm using Conbee 2, zha
I can hook up a switch but I'm not a carpenter/mason/electrician lol
a zigbee device wouldn't fix my issue would it?
it would
@gloomy sequoia you saying you are US without a neutral wire?
how is that possible lol
I knew that but wasn't sure what the wiring looked like
@zealous dune so a zigbee wall switch would allow me to disable the relay and use it with a smart bulb?
I don't see how that is possible
zwave same story?
depends on the switch
it's one thing to not have a ground, but no neutral shouldn't even remotely be legal anywhere
@runic drift I can only see two wires on each switch, seems like no neutral to me
I opened three boxes in my place and all same
no, that probably means no ground
you have a load and neutral, you just don't have a ground
hmm
everything I've seen is referring to people who do or don't have a neutral wire
like, everything seems based on whether or not you have it
old homes with two prong outlets are hot and neutral
Two wires on each switch would be line and load @runic drift
that's us poor europeans
aha ok, so I should be fine with any switch then?
as long as it dosen't require a ground, some switches do
lol they all list whether or not they need a neutral ๐๐
ground is for safety anyway
but not ground lol
uhhh, ok so a WiFi device that may/may not need neutral, and also can use tuya-convert ๐ค lol
If you have line and neutral on a single pole dumb switch, as soon as you turn the switch to on the breaker would trip lol
Two wires on each switch would be line and load @runic drift
@glossy prism the "line" in that context is neutral
???
No?
thats some newfangled electicals
the house would hhave to be made in the 1700's to work on load to ground lol
line+neutral=closed circuit
@glossy prism so... what do I need then? lol
switches only break the line
afaik in us electicals the neutral is usually going through the box but is wire nutted in the back
so you would need more than two wires in your switchbox
@runic drift if you wire line and neutral together (like you're suggesting with the current dumb switches that drinfernoo has) you'd trip the breaker
A regular single-pole dumb switch will have line and load
I'm talking about in the box, not what is connected to a simple flip switch
the guy said he had no neutral
guys im pretty sure I've just got two wires
there has to be a neutral in the box
idk what they are lol
There doesn't need to be
he also said he is not willing to run the neutral into the switchbox
In fact in older construction there often isn't
(this is in the context of the US, not sure about other countries)
I have never see a box where the hot comes from the source not have a neutral
not once ever
i don't think that is even legal
You probably have looked at only newer construction then, or the older construction was thoughtful heh
if by newer you mean 100 years old.. sure
Just saying there doesn't need to be a neutral in each box
there is a difference between a junction box and a switch box
Yup
if he has only two wires, one hot(line) and one load then he's boned
There's a few...haven't personally used any
there's actually a lot of them
Haven't needed to ๐
some are quite sketchy
yeah there's definitely smart switches that need no neutral
like the innoveli red
that one allows relay control ootb, but seems it's the only one that does
these switch boxes metal with a screw clamp holding the wires coming into the box in place?
they're metal but I'm not sure about the other part
lemme open one up, it's ugly lol
I would bet you anything the neutral wire is just on the outside of the box, probably illegally bypassing it going to the light
I can't send pics ๐ค
Please use imgur or other image sharing web sites, and share the link here.
does the wire having sheathing that kind of looks like metal and tar paper?
To quote Tinkerer, "too many idiots posted code as images"
yup, exactly what I thought it was lol
iirc one of the others wasn't as bad
ok so that is a single line ran down from the light to the switch, the actual hot/neutral is in the light box and not the switch
Yep, as I mentioned before that's line (hot) and load in the box
you would keep your same switch in place and just use the wires running to it
that isn't technically legal
not a as main serice panel
lolol
secondary can be grandfathered
I rent ๐คท๐ฝโโ๏ธ lol
I would movve heh
that being said, maybe Shelly's in the fixtures, but the less I have to do the better
because I plan on taking any of this stuff with me when we do move
does only the Shelly rgbw work with color bulbs? or is that "too obvious"?
@glossy prism Good job! ๐
being a rental and all, I wouldn't even recommend using a shelly. I think if this is something you really really want you need to find the no neutral smart switch like they been saying
@runic drift oh, this is a secondary panel ๐คฆ๐ฝโโ๏ธ I was actually trying to remember where my main panel was, that's how often I'm in it ๐
I mean, I'd take the Shelly's too and put them to use somewhere I'm sure lol
I don't see us moving anytime soon and we've been here a few years already
well in the light fixture you'll find the hot and neutral which is all you need plus the two lines running to that switch
Oh gotcha ๐
maybe I'll open a fixture and see how crazy they are lol
with your prognosis he meant
the hot goes into the light box, twists onto one of the wires running to the switch, while the other is connected to the light and the neutral is connected on the other end of the lght
@glossy prism was saying good job, you were absolutely right. think I confused myself with the thought of a house in the US with no neutral lol
Oh gotcha ๐
I should call my brother, an electrician ๐
uh yea
lol back to square one a little
that wiring in that house is crazy.. that has metal flake around the outside jacket wrapped around a tar paper like sheathing and the idea behind it was the metal coating (that is likely mostly gone now) was the "ground" it grounded the metal boxes to the service panel which itself was grounded outside
I havve pulled so much of that out of homes over the years it's insane, and that black tar paper like stuff is hard to get out of clothing
people back then didn't really think things through in terms of over time degrading
lol there's not even any preflashed ones for US ๐
preflashed what
switches
anybody used this thing? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ826F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A33RI86K4PO1EO&psc=1
it is apparently a zwave AND zigbee hub
you should figure out roughly what all you want to do before deciding a path. if all you want to do is control a few lights and maybe a few outlets you don't need to go zigbee or zwave because wifi will work just fine and a lot of times be the cheaper option
one of the main things i've been wanting to do with these lights is to have the "circadian lighting" set up, which means i need to use smart bulbs
and sounds like for that i need a smart switch that can have the relay disabled
and, there don't appear to be many (if any at all) tasmota-flashable wifi devices that work in my country and don't need a neutral wire
which means if i want that, i'm pretty much stuck with the innoveli red switches, which are zwave
and i figureif i'd have to get a zwave hub, that dude up there seems to also support zigbee, meaning i'd have even more options for devices in the future
some like the lutron caseta can do circadian built in without the need for flashing
does it being flashable a requirement? does it being local only be a requirement? are hubs a no go?
being flashable isn't a requirement, as long as it works with smart bulbs
being local only doesn't matter to me
smart bulbs? smart switches and smart bulbs do not go hand in hand
hubs are fine, but thought i'd save a buck or two if i can get a "two-in-one"
yeah, that's what we came to earlier lol
it's because of this apparently
it's very difficult to find a switch that does what i want
"smart switches" can do dimming/on/off along with all the schedules and link to other crap. generally when people want "smart bulbs" they want rgb and effects like rainbows etc
so what do you want?
well a smart bulb requires power 24/7 and is turned off and on by remote means so you don't use a physical switch generally with them however there are some exceptions to that
we're going in circles now lol
ok, a smart switch is designed to control a dumb bulb to make it "smart" and a smart bulb is designed to be a smart bulb without needing a switch
you don't combine the two in the general sense except in some use cases like using a smart switch to tell HA to control a smart bulb
you can put a smart a smart bulb in a fixture, leave the switch to always on and just control it through something like HA etc
so can I get a switch of some kind that just acts as a physical switch for a bulb and it'll just go wherever?
you mean a remote that looks like a switch and mounts on the wall?
having trouble training wife and kid to NOT flip the switches basically
yes you can do that
well in the scenrio above the switch would relay through HA and HA would control the bulb
ooh is that a "remote" then? if I'm searching?
well yeah
I'm saying without a physical switch, she can't control her lights lol
yes you can use all kinds of things as the remote switch, infact I think they have some that look like normal switches and may even go in the same spot as your normal switch
but you wouldn't hook it up to control the light directly
I have to eat dinner so I can't look for it but this guy has a video on this very thing https://www.youtube.com/c/TheHookUp/videos
I need to change the value of the brightness for my light bulbs. they are tuya bulbs but instead of a value range 0-255 they are a range 0-1000 is this something I can put in the customize.yaml. So that they calculate and display brightness properly?
I found this out because another program I was using the developer checked the .json data and that was returned when he logged in with my credentials
currently most of time my sliders initialize over 100%
If this is a question that belongs in another channel let me know.
Not really well versed in discord
@prime sparrow the integration should handle that conversion as I understand it. The documentation seems to say that light brightness has a maximum value of 255. You can also you brighthess_pct
has anyone been able to extract a roborock token from the roborock app?
I have no trouble extracting it from the mi home app but there doesnโt seem to be any information online to do the same from the roborock app
Does anyone know why on the name of the lock it has the : Locked all of the time? Ex: Front Door: Locked
I looking to control two sprinkler valves from HA which just require 12v. I have been looking around and found a 12v ESP8266 2-Channel Wifi Relay which would be ideal as the board is powered by 12v and the valves require 12v, the only issue I have is I don't know if would be possible to control this via Wifi from HA. Any help very much appreciated.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-ESP8266-2-Channel-Wifi-Relay-Switch-Module-Mobile-Remote-Control-Smart/133513388425?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225114%26meid%3D54bb7e4af5a748a99fb4d5528879ec10%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D142774980442%26itm%3D133513388425%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
I have a couple of zwave entry sensors that have rusted and need to be replaced. I am thinking of moving to wifi.. I would like to keep them recessed any suggestions?
@prime sparrow check out https://github.com/ollo69/ha_tuya_custom
https://sensative.com/sensors/strips-zwave/guard/ @queen umbra if you're happy to stay Z-Wave
Hmm those are interesting 10 year battery life... I really like that. All thought I wonder how that would be on a door that gets a lot of use..
So far so good ๐
I don't think you'll get 10 years, but I'm expecting 7 to 8 years with our utility door, which is used a few dozens of times a day
That's been in about 4 years and reports 50% battery. The front door has been in about 3 years and reports 75%
Then again, the patio door also reports 75%, fitted at the same time as the front door, and is barely used ๐คท
Hmm interesting. I might try them out. Thanks for the recommendation
No worries, I've been very happy with mine, and they're now the main reason I'll keep my Z-Wave mesh ๐
Hi all,
I've been trying to figure out the best way to set up a remote for my AC unit. I have an IR blaster setup using tasmota and mqtt, and I have recorded all the commands for the remote. I set up a switch in the config file but it seem hacky and clunky since I need more commands than on/off. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.
ok so I bought some lutron aurora dimmers, and a hue bridge
but I can't connect the switches in the app until I connect hue bulbs... which I didn't buy
really odd all the energy monitoring smart plugs like the kasa and the wemo are all out of stock on amazon
i am having a hard time finding a reasonable price energy monitoring smartp lug that works with HA
the only thing i have found on amazon is a $55 zwave one which is way too expensive
if anyone has one they know of they can recommend please let me know
@frank mica If you're in the US, would something like this do? https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27481
Hi everyone! Quick question for anyone who has installed some Martin Jerry switches.
I just installed my first pair and one of them makes little beeping humming sounds when itโs running. Almost like a little dial up modem is in there. This canโt be good, right? Is it wired wrong? Is the switch gonna die on me? Is that a fire hazard???
@frank mica how comfortable are you with flashing devices with custom firmware via serial? The sonoff S31s have energy monitoring and can be had for around 15 USD, and they are super easy to open up and flash with Tasmota
And then you can use mqtt discovery to get them to appear in home assistant
since deconz considers plugs as lights, it also shows up as a light in Hassio: https://s.woet.me/Iz87PveKFQ.png
is there a way to fix this? if I try to change the entity ID, I get "Domain needs to stay the same"
I'd ask the folks in #zigbee-archived
Or possible ask the folks over in the deCONZ discord if there's a way to not have it do that
deCONZ by dresden elektronik is a software that communicates with ConBee/RaspBee Zigbee gateways and exposes Zigbee devices that are connected to the gateway. Our #zigbee-archived channel is a good place to ask about using it with Home Assistant, but they also have their own Discord server.
@neat frost you can make a template switch
Hi, has anyone noticed differing update cycles for MI Flora? I'm using the default setting but for some device not all values are updated. Like temperature was updated 5 minutes ago, but the moisture value for the same device is 3 hours old. Is that just a display thing because nothing has changed (which I don't really believe)?
I've noticed that. Not sure what's causing it and it's not a huge deal for me
How many Devices do you have, @civic kraken? I have 6 devices on a Pi 3 B+, not sure if that's what's causing it, but I don't think so.
Does anyone have experience with Inovelli switches?
I've been using the current setup for a couple of weeks, so far without major issues. I think some of them have been "unavailable" for a few minutes which I cant find a reason for. The difference in the data is fine as well. It's not like a plant is going to die if the data isn't pulled every few minutes.
Do someone here ever tried Beca Thermostats for home heating? http://www.becaenergy.com/index.php/Home/new/index.html
My concern is that having constantly the device powered up with home curent 220V will keep the thermostat warm and the temperature sensor can read a different temperature than the real one
what was the purpose of neutral wires in light switches before smart switches
my house was built before the age of smart switches, and it has capped of neutral wires in all the switches
In Norway atleast all boxes in wet rooms have always had neutral wires
Because we are required to break both neutral and live for lights in wet areas
Like bathrooms, wash rooms, garages
in my house there's an extra wire in some places but it wasn't connected to neutral. the installer just used the 3 wire cable in everything so left that one dangling. i'm eternally grateful for that ๐
๐คซ
Hey all, is there any easy way to convert a sensor that represents bytes into mb? I essentially want to create a sensor that represents the result of computing: <input sensor> / 1,048,576 From reading the docs i'm assuming that this will involve HomeAssistant's templating language, or possibly filters? I can't seem to find a guide in the docs so apologies in advance if this is already covered somewhere.
You'd have to do it in a #templates-archived
Has anyone seen a good, cheap setup for multi-room audio from HASS (just sounds, not music)?
I guess a cheap amp and cheap speakers would be a fairly obvious bet? One catch is I need it to be fairly low latency for the initial connection, so chromecast isnโt ideal
Good and cheap for multi-room audio tends not to go hand in hand ๐
Audio sync is a non-trivial thing, which is why those that do it well are expensive
TBH, I've found Google Home devices are fine for sounds, the delay is small enough
I should say Iโm not saying it needs to sync
Just for notifications and sounds, I see no issues with Google home
Basically I have a Honeywell Galaxy alarm panel that Iโve got a SelfMon VRIO for now
This is at our 3-story office. The chime for the door opening is an annoying little bastard, but I do need to know if someone opens the door...
So Iโm thinking Iโll setup a few cheap speakers around the building and play some other sounds down them (Zelda secret sound, Metal Gear alert, etc)
Not sure what the best route for actually getting audio to it even if I do wire it though, probably not straight from the server...
I have Echos dotted about but I canโt play anything that isnโt on a music service ๐ค
They can't?
Pretty sure there is a custom component for that
But I don't touch Amazon, so no idea
do tp link routers work well with home assistant as far as presence detection goes?
if not what brand do you guys reccomend
@glad sinew last I read you had to do some trickery so that HA could log into the tp link router which is ok I guess but not the most ideal. There was a custom component you could use. I am sure there are others but I use Linksys which so far has been flawless for a year but not saying it's the best/worst. I would look through the integrations page https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/ and then compare to reviews if the device tracking aspect was a big factor in your choice.
thanks!
I'm finally moving out and me and my room mate are going to smart home the heck out of everything so i wanted to make sure we had a router that would play nice
i think im going to go with a netgear nighthawk
also holy crap im scrolling thru this integrations page
it has connections for things i would have never thought to integrate
lol steam integration
finally, i can start my toaster when my friends are playing among us
Hey, new guy here. Quick question. How do you trigger discovery of new devices? I'm installing a few of these: https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wifi-plug-lite-hs103p2?option=1
and I got the first one to connect successfully, but when I added a second one to the network it did not show up automatically like it says it should.
My suspicion is that the first one was added in because it was already on the network when I installed the integration.
And it did a scan as part of the install.
But now I can't figure out to trigger it again.
@pulsar lodge have you tried plugging the kasa device in then restarting ha? I dunno if there is a way to manually que the scan or not since I never set mine up through the ui
I'll try that, though it seems like there should be some sort of method of triggering a rescan.
Looks like the reboot worked. It's a shame I'll have to reboot every time I add devices though. ๐คท
i am sure there is a different way, I just haven't really dived into all the changes since I first set mine up back when it was v102 lol
does anyone know of any motion sensors that I can attach to my existing rocker style decora switches?
@harsh portal not sure how you mean
ideally it would connect to line and neutral to power it and just have the sensor part like come out the bottom of the wall plate or something
I like my caseta switches, but would like to add motion sensing, but dont want to deal with a bunch of battery powered sensors etc
something similar to this, except instead of powering the little light, it would power a motion sensor
@harsh portal aside from in wall occupancy sensor switches i know of no "addon" that you could add to an existing ac switch
yea, i couldnt find any either, but thought i'd ask
most people either replace the switch with an occupancy switch or do like the smart switch + battery powered motion sensor to toggle the lights to come on
i hate battery powered devices
there are in fact commercial solutions
but I really like my caseta switches...and have a lot of $$ invested in them ๐
I have seen them in colleges, they look like outdoor pir sensors found on like flood lights but usually located in the corner of the room. no clue where you would find that or how it's wired
that says poe so not sure if that's a network type device or just can be powered by power of ethernet
yea, had poe in my search ๐
the one's i've seen look like old pir motion sensors, they probably are but they are wired to something and the switches on the wall look just like regular toggle switches so no clue how it works
Low tech solution for you, if you're willing to try it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012ZZ4LPM/
seen them in colleges and hospitals where they want the lights to automatically go out after a certian time no motion is in the room etc
@pulsar lodge he wants it to be ac powered and hook directly to the sc switch
i've seen them built into switches before. i've installed them in previous houses too before i did any automation
hmmm
in the 80's/90's it would probably be easier to find what you are looking for but because today is all about battery power smart stuff stuff like that is just rare
its asking a lot honestly...to fit all that and wifi into a small enough package to be able to slip beside the switches
well you can put a shelly behind your exsisting switch to keep the switch and then use a seperate motion sensing solution all while keeping your exsisting switch
i've heard the shelly mentioned a lot, but have never actually looked into what it is
it's smaller than a hockey puck that sits behind the switch. it turns any "dumb" switch into a "smart" switch
If you have neutral and live in the box
my existing switches are smart, they're caseta, thats why i'm trying to not replace them..probably have $1000 invested in them lol
oh lmao
well if they are smart then your good to go for like a wifi motion sensor or something
I do smart switches where I have dumb lights , like the garage
Anything else is smart bulbs
he wants motion sensing to turn on/off the lights in a room
That's easy, if the smart switches are available in HA
well, i just want the motion sensing into HA...might use for some lights...but have other ideas for it as well
i was trying to find something that could somehow attach to the existing light switch for the motion sensing so I wouldn't have to wire/power another device elsewhere
Just go wireless sensors
I hate batteries
I use Xiaomi, so far two years battery life
many things now last a few years on batteries
I've heard of people with four
Nah, Xiaomi are the round ones
cr batteries are round?
watch batteries are still cr batteries lol
Cr2450
cr are both
those odd shapped aaa wannabe sized batteries lol
lol
The cr2450 was $3 for two
having to buy one every few years isn't bad
but when you buy something that eats through them like candy then you know to throw the device away and not the battery lol
I have replaced one battery so far, after two years in my 30 or so sensors
For the most active door sensor
Cr1632 in that one
@harsh portal shelly + pir sensor like those flood light sensors would be ac and you can feed it into HA. if you buy the right one it would look like that cmmercial application I was talking about
but you would have to wire it through the wall or something
yea, if I end up doing something like that, i'll mount on the ceiling
if you got an exhaust fan nearby you would be good to go
Without replacing the switch box with a double one to hold the wired motion sensor it probably won't be pretty anyway
well assumg there is an always hot line there
I have plenty of options for power if I goto the attic...I have no problem jumping off another circuit or even powering it with poe
you could always bypass the batteries if you're not worried about doing a few hardware modifications.
I could probably do the mods...I just prefer the prebuilt so I don't have to remember wtf I did 3 years from now (hell, or even 3 weeks) when it fails lol
My thought looking over this conversation was if the wireless motion sensors could handle 5v. If so you could hack the plug end off of a usb wall wart and wire it in bypassing the batteries.
not sure how it would look, but you could mount a switch box to the ceiling, put a dumb occupancy sensor switch in it with plate and hook that to a shelly. it might actually look pretty clean lol
if in the future yoiu don't want it no more just buy one of those blank switch covers and presto lol
i dont know man..those things are like $0.19 ๐
lol, now that i think about it. that's how i would do it if i had above room access
those things only stick out from the wall a quarter of an inch, if you were to put it in a corner or something noone would even see it
That's why I did the wireless ones
People don't even see then
Unless they are looking
this would be a no battery solution
Aye, I've been in... Rich people houses, there are very small nice commercial PIR stuff
That is wired from above
All of them connected via rs485
clean lol
you can even do that with the dumb humidity switches, but those switches are not cheap. the motion ones you can get for like 10 bucks
Aye, you can 3d print mounts for anything
anyone here running HA on an Odroid N2?
@harsh portal , I have a solution for you. https://www.amazon.com/IS335-WIRED-Motion-Detector-Honeywell/dp/B00TYY8LR2/ and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081PX9YFV/
all you need is a USB 5v power supply
the motion sensor has an internal relay it closes
Sorry, 5v for the board, 9-15v for the sensor
use a 12v power supply and one of these to step down to the board voltage, then use the relay to feed 5v to one of the GPIO pins as an input: https://www.amazon.com/Magnolian-Display-Supply-Converter-Module/dp/B00CBCGAL8/
I'm reusing my 90s motion sensors with a nodemcu now
Same for those 9-18v for the sensor
And I use 3v to sense the state
those boards are stupid simple to config.
there's even a plugin in ha specifically for them.
that's the one
You also have konnected
honestly a $10 occupancy sensor, $2 switch box and $2 switch plate and $2 worth of wire and $13 shelly would be the way to go
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32. You can find their documentation here, and get help here in the #diy-archived channel. They have their own Discord server too.
i know how it works ... i just wanted someone to tell their personal experience
i have 4 of them setup via tasmota and mqtt
That's why I suggested their Discord ๐
You'll find folks there who've got experience for sure
ah ok
@winged knoll I know it is not the most optimal choice but out of these two which one would be your recommendation?
https://www.philips-hue.com/en-gb/p/hue-smart-plug/8718699689285
https://shelly.cloud/products/shelly-plug-s-smart-home-automation-device/
I not sure if I can get ahold of an Ikea Tradfri now. I am not necessarily planning to build a whole system out of this, I just need to use them to control my Fish tank lights and Solenoid Valve when I am not home and to time them of course.
There is another option but not sure about it:
https://www.tp-link.com/en/home-networking/smart-plug/hs110/
I know you do not really prefer WiFi however these are the current options I can get ahold of within my time frame available right now.
Thanks again!
thanks... i thought you wanted to refer me to the docs
@oblique ruin Generally, don't tag people to ask for help - it comes across as bad manners, youโre demanding somebody answers you. Itโs different if youโre thanking somebody, obviously. If you do tag somebody keep it polite and respectful. Remember that everybody is a volunteer, and nobody has to help you, and people may block you.
Similarly, please donโt DM (direct message) people asking for help. It also comes across as demanding, and means that others canโt learn from what you do.
Finally, please keep tagging people in replies to a minimum. That too can become annoying very quickly and should be used only when it's necessary (such as if it's been a long time, or there's multiple conversations going on).
Personally, I'd use neither ๐
ok this is funny... look what just got uploaded by the one and only guy with the swiss accent:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHaFM0tKOvY
@oblique ruin there have been some tests regarding power consumption for smart plugs:
On facebook Michael Ritter did a measurement of some power plugs, the power usage of them self
Maybe useful for someone. I made some quick power measurements of my Zigbee and Wifi Smart Plugs (left on / right off).
These are no long term measurements. Just done quick and dirty.
The Gosund Plugs are flashed with tasmota. Shelly has stock firmware.
IKEA TRADFRI control outlet: 1.0 / 0.0
Osram Smart Plug: 1.9 / 0.5
Xiaomi Mi Smart Plug: 0.5 / 0.0
Innr SP120: 1.3 / 0.0
Gosund SP1 (Wifi): 1.7 / 0.0
Gosund SP111 (Wifi): 1.3 / 0.0
Shelly Plug S (Wifi): 0.5 / 0.5
Of course 0.0 Watt are not realistic, but there is just 1 decimal. So I assume its less than 0.05 Watt, otherwise it would have been rounded up to 0.1 Watt or so. See it just as a trend how they relate to each other.
@winged knoll yeah, however then what can one do? ๐คทโโ๏ธ
i think it depends on how keen you are to customize your devices...
shelly devices can generally be reflashed with a custom OS
@oblique ruin Generally, don't tag people to ask for help - it comes across as bad manners, youโre demanding somebody answers you. Itโs different if youโre thanking somebody, obviously. If you do tag somebody keep it polite and respectful. Remember that everybody is a volunteer, and nobody has to help you, and people may block you.
Similarly, please donโt DM (direct message) people asking for help. It also comes across as demanding, and means that others canโt learn from what you do.
Finally, please keep tagging people in replies to a minimum. That too can become annoying very quickly and should be used only when it's necessary (such as if it's been a long time, or there's multiple conversations going on).
@oblique ruin STOP
@oblique ruin TAGGING
@oblique ruin TO DEMAND
@oblique ruin MY RESPONSE
Oh, and I've blocked you, so don't worry about it ๐
Philips hue not so much... i haven't heard any complaints about neither so it doesn't really matter
sometimes you are so mean
it is not that I do not understand your reasons
however simply I am just used to my local forums where one usually tags the person before responding. There was no intention to demand your respond. But alright have it your way.
and No_One, thanks for your help
by the way I am using Hue lights and they work just fine when I am not at home. It has its flows while using Siri however I never failed to turn them off or on from the app itself. Another plug is that after I set a schedule to turn on and off at a given time it does even if the Philips Hue hub is not connected to the internet and the Wifi.
Do you think Shelly plugs can also continue they Schedule after setting them even if the Wifi system fails?
it depends on the firmware i guess. i know that shelly aswell as tasmota(haven't found a suitable image though) have this feature... not sure wether its configurable via homeassistant...
You could take a look at https://github.com/StyraHem/ShellyForHASS in the Hacs appstore.
Its more feature rich than the new native shelly integration.
ah, I see
alright thanks for helping out
so you think Shelly natively supports it?
it says so on their homepage.. i won't vouch for it ...
Hi, Im looking at getting a Nest doorbell and IQ cam. I'd like to integrate it with my current Hassio setup, but from what i can see, something has changed as of last month
I'm just curios what the latest is on this as there isnt much documentation
Does hassio support Works with Google Assistant?
Hass.io was the old name for the appliance like install option, that uses Docker. It is now simply called Home Assistant OS (see #330990055533576204).
Home Assistant does, but Nest is different, and currently Nest support is limited to the badnest custom component
thanks, I'll do some digging. didn't come across the badnest component when i was looking
basically what i'm after is movment on either doorbell or cam to trigger activities
any good recommendations that are homeassistant friendly
For a camera, see #cameras-archived - there's some RTSP ones that integrate well
๐
Woot, picked up some RGB strips from Costco today that flashed cleanly with tasmota
Which ones?
Mirabella genio, 3 pack for 90 aud. Same as what Kmart has for 40 aud each. Not as cheap as Ali obviously but not awful
hello. im using a "Teckin" smart bulb (which seems to be a Tuya), and HA does not detect that the color can be changed.
so i overrode the supported_features to 51. now i can change the color, but it changes back to white after i set it to something else. can anyone tell me whats going wrong ?
51 = BRIGHTNESS | COLOR_TEMP | COLOR | TRANSITION i think according to https://github.com/home-assistant/core/blob/master/homeassistant/components/light/__init__.py#L35.
even weirder things with supported_features = 19. now the color does stay changed, however the UI thinks its white even after its changed. and changing the temperature actually does reset the color to white
Is there a way to get the entities based on the device? Like how the integration reports it?
is there a good way to update devices. say i change a device name in the Sonoff app, do i need to change it in HA or is there a way to auto pull it again?
Someone please, please, please help me. I've spent weeks trying to get my logitech pop buttons to integrate with hassio following this tutorial: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/logitech-pop-integration/42740 but I haven't had any success - would someone be able to guide me through it?
I run home assistant in raspbian on a raspberry pi 4 b 4gb
Hass.io was the old name for the appliance like install option, that uses Docker. It is now simply called Home Assistant OS (see #330990055533576204).
You don't run hassio in raspbian ๐
sorry
Hi all, any suggestions on an outdoor floodlight/spotlight camera that is compatible with HA (local storage). I know of Ring and Googles spotlight camera products but neither are idea and are too expensive.
Buy separate things - buy a flood/spot light, and buy a camera
Buy separate things - buy a flood/spot light, and buy a camera
@winged knoll As obvious as this sounds, sometimes keeping it simple is the best bet, and you're right! I kept getting myself hung up about aesthetics and wife approval.
Well, it also means you can pick the individual parts that "fit" the best
#cameras-archived can suggest cameras, based on your needs. Any flood/spot light and a smart switch/module will cover your lighting needs
and on that note I well tell the wife that @winged knoll said this is what I should do, so she should listen to you, not me ๐
๐คฃ
Heck, you could go and run some facia level digital LED strips to get a "flood" light approach, that also doubles as some fancy party lighting ๐
that definitely wont be getting signed off. lol
@winged knoll are you able to help with the above?
Hi community... weโve the following issue (anyone know how to fix this?):
ha automatically turns lg soundbar (sl10yg) on, after turning off manually
I don't use them, I have no idea @drifting grove - if I did, I'd have said something ๐
thanks - do you know anyone who would be able to guide me through getting it to work?
Ask on that forum thread?
Is this the proper place to ask people know/think a particular device will work with ha?
Questions about a device (not their #integrations-archived with HA)? Someone might have the same device and be able to help you out! If you've got a Z-Wave or Zigbee devices, see #zwave-archived and #zigbee-archived, #cameras-archived for cameras, and #diy-archived for making your own stuff.
Please use https://www.hastebin.com/ or https://paste.ubuntu.com/ to share code or logs
so.... probably yes ๐
Does anyone know if the hugoai table lamp, which works with the smart life app, would work in HA?