#hardware-archived
1 messages Β· Page 94 of 1
Don't, create sensors in yaml without the availability configuration
okay. thanks for your help, i'll give it a try
@zealous dune seams to work π Thanks!
How can I add an unique id to my nanoleaf lights:
Here is my config:
light:
- platform: nanoleaf
host: 192.168.86.47
token: cjDyFJBsvQTRiR4ax0qXfXG
You can't
I'm getting this message:
This entity does not have a unique ID, therefore its settings cannot be managed from the UI.
I see few people online with the same issue, but none of the answers are clear. The answer assume that you are an expert on home assistant.
The answer is simple - you can't add a unique ID
The only thing you can't do is change the entity_id, everything else works
How can I add the nanoleaf light to a room?
You can only add devices to an Area
Only when some developer adds that ability
Can I make an entity a device?
Nope
tinkerer, the bearer of bad news
I come with truth. When applied at sufficient velocity, truth hurts.
??
I come with truth. When applied at sufficient velocity, truth hurts.
truth, at rest, can hurt
LOL
That message is little more than Nothing to see here, move along
You can't change things there, because they're "hard coded" via YAML
Thanks
@long charm the newer nest minis have hardware switches that let you disable the microphones, and have pretty good sound.
@ruby talon nest minis arrived today. You are right, they sound decent, punch above their price point IMO
@long charm nice! yeah def agree on that.
the og hub and the og google home do not have nearly as good sound quality as the mini
i have a mini in every room, incl the bathroom (for shower tunes)
@amber snow you can add a lovelace card for the nanoleaf. it won't be listed as a device, but it has an entity if you look at the Entities list under
and sort by Integration and scroll to Light.
https://i.imgur.com/OaAyvAk.png @amber snow
Anyone have a shelly 2.5 trip when used with a three-way switch as one of the two "switches"? I have a 3-way config in the SW1 set up and a normal switch in the SW2 set up. The three way works just fine by itself..but adding the normal switch trips the breaker. Any tips?
@ruby talon any neat integrations or tips for the nest minis with HASS?
I see I can send them text to speak
i enjoyed the spotcast add-on for a bit, but then spotify started having issues and i said π to spotify
yeah i tried that. some worked better than others, and it kind of interrupts music.
and i live alone... so it was easier for me to just send notifications to my phone π
Is there a way to make a light group in the UI of Home Assistant? I added a bunch of Zigbee bulbs recently and I want to group them up to make toggling a room's light easier.
I don't think so
Shoot. So only through the configuration.yaml file then?
Or a Groups.yaml file if I set one up
How so? What is the better option? I just basically want to tie a group of lights to a single lovelace button.
a light group only supports lights and also allows you to use light controls/effects (dim, brighten, etc.)
a group can contain anything, but only supports on/off
Groups allow the user to combine multiple entities into one.
a light group looks like a light once you create it
I see, sounds good. Yeah I'll end up using the light group. Thanks!
I've got a Logi Pop button (logitech button) that just does not want to behave in Home Assistant
after resetting the required bridge and button, i was able to use the HomeKit Controller to add them to HA. BUT, the only thing that comes over for the button is a battery sensor...
is there any way to rectify this?
Has anyone done anything with the Honeywell Galaxyβs Ethernet module? Would be cheaper than a Konnected if I can just chuck one in but I suspect that itβs some closed protocol?
@glad dust you might want to look through the forums https://community.home-assistant.io/ I know I ran across a post about that
may not be the exact same thing just know it was about the Honeywell Galaxy for UK
Hello guys, I stucked a bit. I created a sensor what is showing the time since motion detected. This sensors results are never refreshing. Any idea what I missed? https://community.home-assistant.io/t/sensor-not-refreshing/225736
You've configured the sensor to only update when binary_sensor.motion_detection_kitchen changes
Instead you need to use https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/time_date and do maths
Ah I see. Look like what I found on forum is not good.
Thank you
and Can I somehow check the time of the sensor changing status or how should I do the math? Can you please give me a helping hand?
π¨ β²οΈ
#templates-archived can help with... templates π
Ok looks like I have to search more π thanks for the hint.
Couldn't you use a template sensor and get the info with the following template ? states.binary_sensor.motion_detection_kitchen.last_changed
Question about Logitech POP button above: #hardware-archived message
Hmm.. I'm having issues with the ha android app not sending device tracker info to my ha instance. I can see in the app configuration that the app gets the GPS coordinates, but the state in HA is empty for the specific device_tracker
The geocoded sensor values are sent through as expected
I've tried disabling / enabling the sensor in the app. Enabling zones makes no difference (zones not detected)
What else could I try?
You could try asking in the #android-archived channel
@winged knoll ooops π thnx
What about my POP problem. Thoughts?
asking repeatedly won't really conjure up a solution, if there was no answer noone has experience with it
My standard advice is that if you don't get an answer here, ask on the forum
all right, sounds good
is the POP button just literally a single button? you can make that with an ESP for a few dollars and run ESPHome on it
is someone using homematic ccu2 with home assistant here? I try to create a button for my homematic dimmer to put my light on with dimmer value 20, but I can't figure it out π¦
Don't ask to ask, just ask your question. Then people can answer when they're around.
When you do ask a question, try to provide as much background detail as possible. Ask yourself these questions first so that others don't have to:
- What version of the Home Assistant are you running? (remember, last isn't a version)
- What exactly are you trying to do that won't work?
- Is the problem uniform or erratic?
- What's the exact error message?
- When did it arise?
- What exactly don't you "get"?
- Can you share sample code, ideally with line errors where the error occurs?
Good news, that you're using Homematic is irrelevant to your question π
yeah, great π because I have same question regarding my Hue lights too π
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/homematic-set-dimmer-value/225824/2 π
@winged knoll thank you very much for your really fast reply, I try this now π
Do read all the docs I linked too π
I've only given you a part of the answer, so that you have to do some learning too
I linked to it
ok then I don't have it
Yes, you do, but cards are a #frontend-archived channel thing
just the "normal" button
Scripts are a thing for #automations-archived
then it's the normal Button, but there is no "tap action to call a script." option
just call-service
https://www.home-assistant.io/lovelace/button/#tap_action, but as I said, see #frontend-archived if you need help with that
is the POP button just literally a single button? you can make that with an ESP for a few dollars and run ESPHome on it
@amber coral itβs a stateless programmable switch and itβs glued to my wall
https://www.home-assistant.io/lovelace/button/#tap_action, but as I said, see #frontend-archived if you need help with that
@winged knoll finally got it! π
HA supports this type of device/entity right?
If it's supported it almost certainly uses events for button presses. You won't see an actual entity for button press. Listen for events at developer tools > events when pressing the button
@twilit relic
Iβm new to HA. I want to get some sensors, starting with something simple like leak sensors, probably zigbee. Iβve seen xiaomi and aqara recommended a lot for sensors, but where you prefer to buy them? Do I need to avoid anywhere like Amazon or eBay? Are there different types of leak sensors that work differently/better/worse with HA?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
There's a lot of choices, but if you can answer the above it'll help π
I just got the schlage connect lock, it uses z-wave. I'm looking for which hub/controller to go with. I've got a few other "smart" devices but they're all on wifi - eyezon alarm system, HEOS Denon AVR and speakers, and i'm looking at getting a bunch of temperature sensors by zigbee, so maybe a z-wave + zigbee all in one solution? I'm adverse to any cloud stuff, in Canada, and budget is whatever is necessary to have something that works well across lots of devices with minimal fuss
I've started putting together a PC to run Home Assistant on but hit some snags during setup and haven't gotten any further yet
See #zwave-archived - basically buy a Z-Wave (Plus) stick and go direct
a usb stick?
Yes
like the aeotec?
like #zwave-archived π
He's been posting over there, eventually π
Hey folks, I need a bit of advice. Just bought a Xiaomi Mijia Remote, and I can't get it to work for some reason. Well, it works, I can learn and send codes from HA, but when I'm trying to learn codes for both of my IR-devices (TV and AC) I get a new code each time I press a button on an original remote. Which seems kinda weird.
The only thing that worked so far is the Power On button on my Sony TV remote, though for some weird reason it only worked once.
It would be great if you could suggest some ways to solve this kind of issue, since I haven't been able to find any relevant info regarding my devices online.
Also, how do I decode the raw IR codes I learn with HA?
it doesn't seem like HA supports stateless switches...
what do you mean by stateless switch?
home assistant does support that
1 tap, 2 taps, long press
i used an ESP32 with a button to control my lights
when i pair my button with HA, it has no states except battery level
listening to *all events resulted in no activity while pressing the button
which hub to you have it paired to?
The button has its own hub, which is on the wifi. I've paired the button hub and the button with HA via the HK Controller
what do you have for homekit in your config.yaml?
there's nothing in the config/configuration.yml file fo rhomekit
should there be a separate HK config file in HA somewherE?
it appears to be a subsection in your config.yaml
My entity doesnβt show up
Check if the domain of your entity is supported. If it is, check your filter settings. Make sure the spelling is correct, especially if you use include_entities.
If you have no settings for HK in your config, i'm assuming it'll use the default filter behaviour of allow all supported domains
yes it's the default
in which case "check if your domain entity is supported"
which you'd assume it'd come up as a binary_sensor or input_boolean
i'm afraid i'm not familiar with homekit
the page you linked me to is not HomeKit Controller
@winged knoll thank you. Iβm in the US. No budget limitation at this time. I want a simple leak sensor that is battery operated, and easy to set up w/ HA. I was thinking Zigbee network of switches/bulbs/sensors would be good to get established, but open to hearing if thereβs a reason to choose something else. I have very few smart devices in the home so far and am looking to learn HA on simpler ones first. My only voice assistant is Google Home.
Tinkerer is away for 30m 19s with a message :point_right: π
the page you linked me to is what devices Homekit can read from HA
should Homekit Controller not support every device/characteristic that is normally supported by Homekit?
I guess it only supports whatever the devs have time/will to include in HA
although you'd think a binary_sensor would be important
Stateless Programmable Switch
i don't know what that translates to in the HA world, but it's not showing up anywhere. is there a better channel for HomeKit chat?
it translates as binary_sensor
@winged knoll I guess I should add I have the Nortek z wave/zigbee combo stick, just got it to connect to a z wave smart lock that came with the house, but havenβt set up zigbee yet because I donβt have any zigbee devices yet
Tinkerer is away for 35m 44s with a message :point_right: π
@twilit relic try #integrations-archived since it seems to be an issue with the homekit integration
i also don't see what you think it's a binary_sensor
when the button is pressed i guess it counts as closed?
so yeah, HK stateless devices aren't currently implemented in the HA HK-Controller integration.
I've been scrounging the internet and forums for some info on Sonoff's T0EU1C. I was able to flash them with Tasmota but I wanted to go with the ESPHome so followed how to migrate. So far so good. Got the add-in in HA and compiled the binaries and downloaded them but when I do a manual upload of the .bin file it says incompatible.
the .yaml file validates without any issues.
esphome:
name: wc_switch
platform: ESP8266
board: esp01_1m
I'm tired of trying to figure this out by myself and hopping someone can help
@twilit relic if it has no state and just fires events, you just need to catch either the device ID or event ID in order to fire actions
ie: for my setup, nfc tags can generate an event in home assistant with Event type: tag_scanned and tag id: blah blah blah, which can then be added to automations or scripts
but because they are passive and just cause the phone to send an event, they aren't entities
maybe your logitech pop is the same. try creating an automation to toggle a light, and then in the triggers setup an event with the device id of your POP
@drifting grove can you post the log when it says incompatible please?
I did try automation triggers like you suggest, but only battery level change Is available π
are you setting trigger type: device
I think I found out the issue. Got this at the complete bottom of the migration page. It seems I have to set an option to 1.
If you are using Tasmota 8+ and get an error after uploading the firmware, go to the console and type SetOption78 1, then restart the device and try the firmware again.
trying it right now
yeah so because the button is 'stateless' ie: can't be read back, i think it is not an entity of the device, but an event. I would be setting the trigger type: Event, and trying to find the event id to filter by, I'll upload my config for an NFC tag which is conceptually similiar
home assistant tells you the tag id when you setup the tag, which is obviously not gonna be available for your system
trial and error? π
so if I already did a system wide listen for all events, and no amount of jamming the button with my finger fired any events in HA debug, i think this idea is DOA
I guess the event isn't getting from homekit to HA
use a heatgun to get it off your wall maybe?
Lol seriously considering it. Not sure how long the review and merge cycle is going to be for that moon shot PR that adds event support
donβt think I can wait that long
i have the same problem with a device i want to tuya-convert. Never know how long you'll wait
you could run that PR to try it?
Thanks for this! Been looking all night for instructions
Hello everyone. I got a question. Does anyone know of a budget light switch that also monitors consumption and has integration with HA without flashing?
Hi, I am having an issue with a smart plug (OSRAM Zigbee). When I turn it on via UI, the switch on the screen returns to "off" but the plug remains on. The power measuring is also out of wack showing 28,000W. Does anybody have any clue?
you probably want #zigbee-archived
@stray idol Shelly 1pm. not a light switch, uses your existing switch and sits behind it. price ranges from $12-$16
@runic drift that was my initial idea but then I come to the fact that I need a switch on the wall too. You know wife approval thing. Haha
Sounds like youβd retain your wall switch
I was looking at modifying a decora switch to be momentary. Has anyone tried that?
If I can convert the switch then I could use the Shelly and wala
@stray idol there are some diy ways to convert some switches to momentary however once you make the switch you could no longer use the switch without something like a shelly again.
yea it works with momentary
Do I have to change a setting?
Perfect. Thanks
I guess I will go with that combo. Shelly 1pm + modified decora switch
Hi, I am having an issue with a smart plug (OSRAM Zigbee). When I turn it on via UI, the switch on the screen returns to "off" but the plug remains on. The power measuring is also out of wack showing 28,000W. Does anybody have any clue?
@spice patio I connected the plug to the wall - vertical (instead to a power bar on the floor - horizontal) and now it works fine... I won't touch it.
Hey, good morning. Is HOSS running on RPi2 as well?
Hi, maybe anyone can help me. I have problems to connect my vacuum cleaner to home assistant. I have a Xiaomi Mi Robot (STYJ02YM) and I also have a token from the cleaner. But in home assistant I got a time out from the miioprotocols. Any idea what I could do? Thank you all!
https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/installation/#performance-expectations @lament stone
"Run" yes, perform well.... not really
#integrations-archived @iron sand π
https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/installation/#performance-expectations @lament stone
"Run" yes, perform well.... not really
@winged knoll thx I ordered already a RPi4 π
rpi1a here i come!
You joke, but there are folks out there using those or a Pi Zero, and who then complain that upgrades can take most of the day... π
lol i don't think you can even buy the a version of the original pi anymore. but it wasn't that long ago there was someone in here running it off a pi0 lol
I guess once you got it set up and never touched it again, it would be ok
dreamworld
I was using an RPi2, but moved to a HP ProDesk mini computer with an i3 and SSD... Huge improvement! Also switched from Python VirtEnv to Docker (HA, SQL, and more...). I had the computer lying around.
I'm using a old laptop (Lenovo t440P) with a fourth gen i7. runs great
it' sad your "old" laptop is newer than my desktop i am currently on
Ah, it was for my job.. worked on it daily for about 5 years. great machine.
It's funny to see it pop up on reddit thinkpad as a second hand machine π
Nice Drakonen! Im running the same thing! Went from a pi to a desktop to the laptop.
Hi all, I'm a noob to HA but a competent techie so this is a great challenge. I've got HA running and I added a Sonoff Basic device (without flashing anything different on it) to my entities and have been playing with some integrations and some basics with automations. All is good thus far.
I'm now looking at purchasing some sensors, switches and any other useful endpoint devices and got a good understanding of the differences between ZWave, Zigbee and WiFi. I think I will be going down the Zigbee path which I understand requires a bridge/hub and a dongle of some kind(?) for the devices to connect to.
I'm watching lots of you tube videos and it seems like the technology is forever improving and evolving. Am I correct in saying that the best way to attach Zigbee these days is to use a Sonoff Bridge flashed with a zigbee tasmota image? Rather than get a dongle that would plug into my HASS machine?
Best is personal π
There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:
deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are support. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended, but there are other options. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively, with no native UI. It uses MQTT for control and configuration, but there are third party UIs. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the Zig-Ah-Zig-Ah! and Slaesh's sticks being recommended. The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and adding unsupported devices is also documented.
Plus the Tasmota thing, I've no idea what that supports
#zigbee-archived channel is a great place for advice though
oh bloody ell. lol
Looks like https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Zigbee/ doesn't document supported devices π€·
Personally, I recommend zha if you want something built into HA, and Zigbee2MQTT if you don't, but there's no universal best or right method
ok, so from where I enter this world, my learning is that Zigbee is usually the cheapest route to getting small, low power (battery type) sensors and switches. I'm still grasping what MQTT is but this is this next step on my journey. I'm good with NodeRed, so should be able to test MQTT stuff easily, i think
MQTT is just a message transfer protocol
And yes, Zigbee is cheaper than Z-Wave, and has better battery life than WiFi devices
ok, and Zigbee2MQTT suggests to me that compatible Zigbee devices use the protocol to send messages such as on, off as well as other more complex signals. I think I'll grasp that concept sooner than later.
zigbee2MQTT translates the zigbee protocol into MQTT protocol, which allows it to travel over IP
@winged knoll - that makes sense.
It's more that it's a bridge - it translates. It handles all the Zigbee magic, and talks something else for HA and others
the "Zigbee Stick" part is the bit I want to get right
I havent used the zigbee stuff myself. Since i liek to hack away at stuff and Im cheap, I went with the mqtt stuff and flashed tasmota on them. So light bulbs, esp8266 devices etc.
That's the great thing with HA - there's a whole long list of options
by far the cooler option π
I'm sure I saw a recent video on Dr Zzz's that showed a stick that was preflashed ready to go. I'll continue looking around, because recommendations just seem to keep on changing as things improve. My question is, does the individual Zigbee devices all connect to the stick? Or do they mesh?
oh and all my stuff runs off an outlet so far.. If it go with somethign liek a remote weatherstation that runs off a battery and a sloar cell that may be a good excuse to take advantage of zigbee lower power. But for now, the mqtt stuff is no problem. Tasmota takes care of most of the realy nitty gitty stuff for me.
and a lot of mtqq devices can suck up your IP addresses.
even on a private class c, the number of IP addresses are plentiful
Zigbee can mesh
@amber coral But does it always have to mesh?
well at some point data will hit the bridge and leave the mesh (where you'll convert it to mqtt)
i know there's probably a reason for this, just curious what it is. the nanoleaf integration results in an entity, but not in a device. why is that? in order to use it in automations, i have to call light services, i can't just call it as a device.
The mains powered devices build the mesh
If you've got a well placed, capable, stick you can get away without a mesh on small installs
The mains powered devices build the mesh
@winged knoll Ah, understood. Which is what I thought. Hence why when I watched the video showing that you can use a flashed Sonoff zigbee bridge in a well placed position in the house, this sounded like a good idea. It effectively is "the sigbee stick" but not physically plugged into the HA machine.
Well, with Zigbee2MQTT and deCONZ you can run remove from HA anyway
Oooh
my indecisive brain is hurting
Fundamentally, my main goal/project before I get all creative with HA is to satisfy 1 requirement... I have 2 bay windows in my house, each bay window has 10 individual blinds, so that 20 blinds, which I for sure am not buying 20 of those expensive motorized blind gadgets. My challenge to myself is to build something small that works that I can repeat 20 times, and be as cost effective as possible. "The Hook Up" channel showed a solution to make the motorized part that can hook into HA for $10 each. So I estimate $200 for 20 blinds is an amazing deal.
holy crap that's a lot of windows
This is HA, nobody said you have to use only one technology π
https://i.ibb.co/NVt7hKM/Bay-Window-Blinds.jpg
It's a nice look, but it takes ages to wind and unwind them twice every single day.
that's underwhelming i was expecting an enormous set of windows
i wonder if you could mechanically link them somehow
I knew it would be underwhelming, which is why i just showed the picture. 10 blinds a single bay window sounds like its was expected to be huge, but im afraid not. It's just a huge inconvenience and chore.
I looked into mechanically linking them, but it would look ugly if it was feasible.
alternatively you could replace them with a curved curtain rail and a single curtain puller
if not, at least you only need 1 driver, even for 10 individual blind lifters
just 1 driver?
i assume you want all the blinds to raise/lower at once then you just need one module right?
yeah
but each blind will still need to be individually connected because there's no neat way to tie them all together
yeah so as i understand the DIY system is a stepper motor attached to a chain puller
but you can drive all 10 stepper motors from a single ESP32 since the control signals will be the same
maybe one set each for top and bottom since they're different heights
the motion is a "twist" rather than a "pull" to open/close the blinds. I can't think of a way to attach 5 of them together. Maybe I'm misunderstanding?
This is the inspirational video I was watching: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1O_1gUFumQM&t=317s
yeah i mean that each window/blind will need it's own motor and driver, but the actual controller, as in the device that converts zigbee into stepper motor control signals, can be just one per set of blinds
silver linings
Agh spent almost 12 hours trying to get my Mi vacuum connected to HA and been through at least a dozen tokens. I am now completely out of ideas and in need of sleep. I set the vacuum up on a new version of the app on Mainland China servers, got an old version of the app on Mainland China servers, check app logs, grab token and IP, plug into configuration.yaml... nothing.
Hey, not sure if this channel is the right one, I wanted to ask, I am about to buy these light switches (at least one now for testing) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001331194955.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.20053c00Tam6k0&mp=1 I have two gang switch now, is it possible to buy three gang switch and don't connect the third one to any wire and use it for stuff in home assistant instead?
seems reasonable
Hi, am new to HA and also new to discord (friend said to try in here for this as you guys post lots of good info. - trying to get broadlink rm4 to learn RF, can get it to learn IR. - when would this guys change / enhancement make it to the live version? https://github.com/home-assistant/core/pull/39671
@jolly cobalt i wonder if i could plug none of them in (just L and N) and use it purely as a smart switch
I'm currently renting as a student but when I get my own place that's a solid option
@random charm They only submitted it for consideration a week ago - it could be in 0.116, or 0.136, or never if it doesn't meet the requirements for merging. Just follow the PR and you'll be able to see things progress
Fantastic thanks @winged knoll for the advice.
Random question... Are there any smart locks for deadbolts that actually fit over the deadbolt lever and don't require taking off the faceplate?
This is the only one i've found so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084PCRTCW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1ZJB7KR4O7862&psc=1
i need plugs... I am trying to find zigbee 3.0 aqara plugs (US) but they don't seem to exist. What plugs should I use? or are full on outlets the better solution?
See the pinned messages in #zigbee-archived @idle zephyr
Thanks
Has anyone by any chance used, or is familiar with a "USR-WIFI232-A2" - it's a Serial TTL UART to Wifi Wireless Module. The module has a manual that shows the pin out, but what annoys me is the simple things such as which way up is the diagram showing the pins. lol. Is there something obvious in engineering/electronics that I dont know about? Because there is no obvious corrolation from the image showing the pins, compared to me holding the device in my hand. It's a 50-50 guess. Arghh
do you have a multimeter?
in fact regarding the pinout, one of the pins is square, and you can see in the picture of it that the bottom right pin is square
can you link me to the diagram you're looking at?
for reference, if you did have a multimeter and didn't have the square pin, you could expect the metal casing to be connected to ground, so put your multimeter in short mode, and tap the pins until you figure out which is ground
im so glad you pointed this obvious observation because i dont have a mustimeter, but im recent times i've found a need to use one - only last week was I wiring up my dashcam to my cars fuse box, and couldn't find an "always-on" connection fuse.
i'll admit it
i don't have one at the moment
i'm waiting for the pokit pro to ship, and my cheap one died
I just hope I haven't fried my module because i know for sure I had the wrong pins connected, and it got very hot and so i disconnected it... and a half second later I could smell the after burn smell, eeekkk
maybe, it might just be that it's getting hot.
from the datasheet it's a 3.3v device and up to 300mA, that's 1W of power
i wonder how tolerant the bits on the board are to taking 3.75V through a RX connection. whoops
it'll probably be fine. I'm sure i've never wired something correctly in my life ever
first time that is
the module only cost me Β£5 but took 3 weeks to get here π¦
damn, you could probably get an ESP for less than that with amazon next day
i'm still learning i guess. As far as I was aware i needed to communicate through serial using WiFi, and this module is what popped up
what're you trying to acheive?
my existing home alarm system can be integrated with HA to allow me to arm and disarm it, and it also uses the the existing alarms PIR's and door/windows in my house as entities through HA.
so the UART is connected to your alarm and the wifi is connected to the same network as HA?
yes
does the alarm system know how to communicate with your wifi module?
hummm...
i'd imagine there's a fair chance as AT standard is (reasonably) universal
the documentation doesn't mention any need to flash the module
I was expecting that I would need to flash the module in some way, but apparently the module has a small webserver on it and thats all it needs (?)
yeah it looks like you can run the AT command set on it
ok, im gonna give it another shot. Thanks for teaching me how to suck eggs correctly π
anytime 
BOOM! The module is now broadcasting it's WiFi AP yay! Now on to the fun bit, the HA yaml stuff
π
Any know how to get mqtt sensor to update more often?
what kind of MQTT sensor?
ive got a sp20 and I"m getting the power and amp info from it
it works with a template to tell if a fan is on or off
but it only seems to be updating every 5 min
I'm using Tasmota and Mosquitto
oh and auto discovery
Tasmota is the important bit since the device will be responsible for timing the reports
i'm unfamiliar with the SP20, is it a power meter?
its a wall plug with power monitoring
ok so you just want to increase the refresh rate of the ammeter
TECKIN SP20 Module
i'm not familiar with tasmota but i'm reading the docs rn
i was looking at the docs and I may have missed the section to update reporting times
ok so apparently you can just issue a command to change config
you need to issue the command TelePeriod <X> where <X> is the time in seconds
@severe scaffold alternatively, you can have it push updates when the power usage changes by a certain amount in watts: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Commands/#power-monitoring (look for PowerDelta)
probably better than basing it on time
change in watts or percent change
so what I have is a switch template and that template looks at a the watts being used by a tower fan to determine if its on or off (fan is controlled by IR)
heh, i have one of those set up
so I could use the PowerLow setting to send a message when it is 2 watts or less
if I do that does it update all the sensor data or just send a message?
just found my answer
that did it
is the PowerDelta command persistent through a power failure? I don't know much about Tasmota
Yup
Power usage (watts)
do you have that set up as part of the switch, a separate switch or a sensor template
Template fan
A template in speed_template:
got it
Hello Community, I have a really interesting question π I would like to create an alarm system with the devices I have. I have the sensors, motion detectors, cameras etc. I also have a Xiaomi Wireless Switch what I will put on the wall in my hall. This psychical button and Home assistant virtual buttons will be the Alarming Buttons, If I go to bed I'll always push this on the wall or on my phone to activate the alarm system. I also want to add there a little feedback red led, where I can see if its activated or not, of course on Home Assistant I'll also add one. If me or my girlfriend goes there and wants to go outside at the morning we will see oops the alarm is still set and we need to push the button to deactivate it. This feedback led would be really important, the only problem is there is no RF/IR controller there to activate this so its need to be WIFI-based led and the most biggest problem there is no power there! There is any method to solve that somehow? I found Abutton on Aliexpress and a lot of ESP based Wifi stuffs but if the LED will stay alive on RED glowing mode, when the alarm system set then it will kill the battery in a few hours or less. Thank you for your advices.
Does anyone know if you can run HassOS from an SSD on a RPi4?
Yes
Ok thats good to know
I did the whole bootloader update thing but I cant seem to get HassOS on to my SSD and still have it boot. Should I install HassOS on an SD and then image that to the SSD?
hello. i need help with android app.
@hollow isle #android-archived
I did install SSL via DuckDNS + Lets crypt and now i can login outside, but not inside my home network
i can login via web browser inside
Is there a way to connect an USB endoscope camera to RPI Hassio?
I want to monitor my 3D prints
I mounted this camera near the printer nozzle
I don't think there's a native way to connect USB cams, but you could start a new docker instance running https://github.com/gen2brain/cam2ip and then connect that as an IP cam i think. also try #cameras-archived
@potent crane check out octoprint if you haven't already. it's great
Yes I want to connect it to Octoprint
I have an instance running on Hassos
But I need Hassos to recognize the camera
you can install motioneye
Will this camera be supported by motioneye? https://allegro.pl/oferta/mini-kamera-media-tech-endoscope-usb-mt4095-ip67-7137159679
#cameras-archived would be a good place to ask, but they do document supported devices
If it has Linux support, you're likely golden
I have one of those, not that brand tho. great for shoving in tight places to get an idea whats there but it was crappy used as a general camera hehe
Yeah, if you want an actual camera, a cheap webcam would be far better
Hey folks! I have just set up a Shelly 2.5 and a Shelly 1 in my house. I'm wondering if it's possible to remap switches? Firstly, if possible on the default Shelly firmware, and if not, Tasmota. For example, I'm looking for a switch attached to the Shelly 2.5 to stop controlling the device attached to the Shelly 2.5, and rather control the device attached to the Shelly 1. Conversely, I want the switch on the Shelly 1 to control one of the devices on the Shelly 2.5. Thanks for your help in advance!
Please @ me if you can help out! All the best!
@rigid perch wut?
that is making my head spin
I get it now
had to reread it a few times
Haha sorry
you use detached switch mode
not sure you can control one with the other through firmware only but through HA you can easily
using an automation
Gotcha! So I'd use the detached input as the trigger for the automation and then the automation would turn on the other light, and vice versa
correct
using the built in mqtt you can probably get it to do from shelly to shelly.
Great! Thanks for your help!
Hi
I'm using the home assistant + conbee II stick and hue bulbs. Everything in the latest version but the deConz addon can't find any hue bulbs
See #zigbee-archived (or the deCONZ Discord)
Will this camera be supported by motioneye? https://allegro.pl/oferta/mini-kamera-media-tech-endoscope-usb-mt4095-ip67-7137159679
@potent crane why would you want to use that in motion eye, this doesn't sound like the right application for it
I used to track my phone by wifi (using devicetracker/ping) to tell when I was home, but ever since I switched to iOS from Android, this doesn't seem to work consistently (iOS appears to disconnect from wifi when not in use)
Does anyone have any recommendations for circumventing this iOS issue or a better mechanism of "at home" detection?
As an alternative to HA built-in bluetooth tracking, the monitor script uses separate devices, usually Pi Zeroes, to track bluetooth devices.
It uses MQTT topics to relay device status messages to HA. See this forum thread for more.
Bluetooth > WiFi
Interesting, stock Android and many custom ROMs behave exactly the same, so you got "lucky"
Interesting. I had a Samsung Galaxy S8 before. I used to keep BT off to save battery, but battery isn't an issue now so I could switch to BT
Actual battery drain from Bluetooth has been irrelevant for years now
Oh, huh, cool. Incremental upgrades or was there a big innovation?
A bit of the first, coupled with the fact that screens consume masses of power
So sure, when you had a tiny battery and small screens Bluetooth was a relatively large drain, but for the last 5 to 10 years it's been insignificant
One of the tech sites did tests recently and discovered that the battery drain from Bluetooth is less than the margin of error in the measurements π
Wow, that's wild. I guess we're finally getting the fruits of that computing energy revolution and devices are becoming less power hungry
I was kind of wondering about that when people were talking about BLE contact tracing, so that's an interesting piece of the puzzle I wasn't aware of
I've left Bluetooth switched on for every phone I've owned in the last 15+ years - I saw a steady improvement at first, and then stopped caring
It's not been a factor in reaching the end of the day for over 5 years now - long enough that I can only say "less than 10, more than 5" π
I guess it also depends on how often you change out your phone -- battery capacity seems to drop significantly over time, though I'm not quite sure how much is degradation vs. increased drain from OS changes and other bloat
I'm still rocking my OG Pixel - so that should tell you something
Call it 3.5 years since I didn't buy one right away
Nice! People really liked the early Pixels, right? But I think they're not liking the new ones as much
I like my pixel 3
We've got the OG, a 3, and a 3a here. None are bad they're just not as good value for money as the previous range
Folks have got a Moto, and other than the skin (and lack of updates) it's a nice phone
I'll be upgrading to a Pixel 4a or 5 though π
Meh maybe I should have asked you all about what phone to buy. I'm really regretting the switch to iOS
Not being able to install uBlock Origin and PrivacyBadger on FireFox is driving me crazy
Brave is like 90% there but not quite
I'm a huge Android fan, and iOS annoys the heck out of me
I hadn't used it in over a decade and my parents offered to pay for my phone if I switched... hard to refuse that offer
People really like FaceTime
I'm still rocking my OG Pixel - so that should tell you something
@winged knoll wait really?? So am I
When the battery is past EOL I'm just gonna have it replaced
Well, that's really a topic for #integrations-archived π
Oh, good point. I'll repost it!
Hello Fellas, I'm looking for an alarm plug.... I have a motion sensor zigbee but want detection at certain times to make noise... what options is there compatible with Ha?
Any media player...
lol any controllable 12v relay like sonoff/shelly + old mechanical door chime and presto.. annoyance with every motion
Oooooh, Zigbee plug + chime + Binding and you get an automatic ding every time the sensor detects motion
I have the motion sensor send me notification which buzzes my smartwatch a million times to wake me up, it triggers 11pm till 6.30 am... the valuable is not there when I go to work
bit against media player as they suck bit too much power for my liking as I have no need for another one in the shed, I know its only 2-3 watts idle, but surely there is something else that uses like 0.5?
im trying to integrate my philips 70PUS6504 into home assistant but i cant find any mention of being able to this.
Looks like there was a lot for 2016-2018 models but nothing from 2019.
Anyone have a konnected alarm panel that can help me out? I just wired it up and added it to home assistant but none of the sensors change state. I think I wired it wrong. Can anyone help?
I need to find a 12 V power supply that I could control using Home Assistant Ξ² and Google. Any idea?
Smart socket + 12v adapter?
@olive brook Similar to me? I'm waiting on some D1 mini's π
@olive brook I missed the URL: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/making-12v-siren-smart/220226
Hey guys!!! Has anyone here ever used a Sonoff in the same circuit as a water pump? I don't know if it will work well since current peaks may occur when the circuit starts to work.
I have a few Sonoff POW (16a right?) here with me and my idea was to control my water pumps. Example: Sonoff will always stay on but the pump may be on or off according to water level (different circuit to control the pump). When the pump is on, the energy will flow through the Sonoff and then it will measure a current. Home assistant will monitor the current and since it noticed that the pump is on it can send a push notification to the user.
My worries here are using a sonoff with a water pump. My pump regular current is below 10A.
@limber reef if your worried that during a "peak" the pump might exceed 16 amps you could always use a plug in meter to check prior to using the sonoff.
I personally doubt it would if it's rated for 10a but to ease your concern you could do that
I personally doubt it would if it's rated for 10a but to ease your concern you could do that
@runic drift
Thanks!. I measured it and it does not exceed the 16A. I was also worried because it is a 'motor' and normally this circuit is sinusoidal. But I guess it will work.
should work just fine
Sounds like #templates-archived
Globally, AliExpress or Amazon if it exists in your country
ye was looking at aliexpress, the most selling beacon keyring on there seems alright abit dodge. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32826544680.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.103a423a9FC9v9&algo_pvid=fb385274-67a7-4956-8d2b-590523133d51&algo_expid=fb385274-67a7-4956-8d2b-590523133d51-0&btsid=0b0a050b16001836874468382eef9d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
maybe i just need to look at chips and maky my own keyring
I bought a Chipolo myself, easy to get and works well with monitor
is it just any generic "key finder" type device will be fine right?
No idea, but probably
thanks, ye typing key finder into aliexpress yields much better results
So I was going to put a Wyze sensor in a mailbox and when my mom heard, she said no it is "probably illegal"
Does anyone have any ideas for identifying when mail is here?
Like mailbox cameras exist so I'm sure it is legal, but my mom doesn't want anything in there
If it has a door/flap, a door/window sensor if you've got the range
@formal pecan these are less dodgy
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLw9767
Are there any smart locks for deadbolts that actually fit over the deadbolt lever and don't require taking off the faceplate?
This is the only one i've found so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084PCRTCW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1ZJB7KR4O7862&psc=1
@blissful crane there are lots of them, but maybe not so many with an outside keylock part
greets. does anyone happen to know how I can reset a cheap 433MHz remote to new codes? they seem to have a "wipe code" dance, but not a "reset to random code"
using a Sonoff 433MHz bridge running tasmota that is
mqtt integration if that makes a difference
anyone experienced yeelight bulbs connection problem?
it might be related to HA 0.114 as I checked everything else - router is same, wifi has same setting, unifi wasn't updated for good 3 months, bulbs have static IP for ages....
No issues with mine on 0.114
I'm struggling TBH - rgb v2 and v1 - all of them I have so 8
they are out sometimes after 1 hour, sometimes after 12 hrs, longest time was 2 days
just started all of sudden last Friday, and well I'm hopeless - did reset, changed servers to china, sinagapore, back to europe, restarted APs, changed DNS in pi-hole
Unable to update device 192.168.88.116, Salon lampa pojedyncza: A socket error occurred when sending the command.
Unable to update device 192.168.88.121, Biuro 3-3: Bulb closed the connection.
I only see that kind of thing when the light needs power cycled
so somethin is with yee and commands sent from HA (Source: components/yeelight/init.py:326)
but well they were rock stable for months it's first problem this year and I'm running wild
as nothing has changed beside hass version
@blissful crane there are lots of them, but maybe not so many with an outside keylock part
@runic drift That's what I explicitly need because I'm unable to modify the lock / door in any way (apartment.)
another one down just 3 min ago without a reason ehh
Hey I had a quick question about NFC tags. In HA, do they work more like a switch or executing a script? Basically I want to know if I could use it to more or less check into a room. If I put the card on a table and drop my phone on top it would know I'm there. But then when I'd pick it up it would know I was leaving. Not sure if this would work or not
NFC tags aren't constantly read, they fire an event one time only
it depends on how you read them -- you could program a reader to act as an on/off switch
I've done this with a esp8266 and a nfc reader to play music while a tag is on the reader
you could have it send something on MQTT on events, HA wouldn't even care that it's NFC vs an actual switch
Yea I was just hoping to make things easy by having my phone be the reader and the tags would stick to specific spots. So as I moved my phone around it would know if it were down in a room or not
BLE beacons can do that no?
Yea but just a little more complicated
yeah I don't know about that, what would the phone use to read the tags?
Android or iOS?
my phone can read tags
you could rig something in Tasker to continuously check for tags and do the on/off thing
or of course make an app, but that's more involved
Haha yup
But maybe Tasker can just do the constant checks after a tag has been read so it doesn't devour my battery
I'll look into that
Yea that's what I was thinking
And when it doesn't hit it's not there and stops check g
also, if you move the phone to another tag, that's easy
I've switched to an iphone this year, I try not to think of tasker anymore π
Haha could be worse!
just put tags on the inside and outside of your doorways and scan them as you walk in and out of rooms
Auto closing doors that require you to scan in and out of the room before they'll unlock...
write a chat bot that messages you every 30s and asks you in which room you're in
PIR sensors?
Drones to follow people around
get a dog that follows you around and train it to scan its tag on each door
@olive brook Similar to me? I'm waiting on some D1 mini's π
@crystal hull
Will look in to it. I am searching for a guide about ESP and Home Assistant Ξ² for dummies. I havenβt figured it out yet how it work and how to code them:/ but will add this to list thanks
How you use esphome depends on how you have HA installed. If Hass you can just install the addon, otherwise you need to spin up a docker instance for it
I just asked in Zigbee but is this or is Zigbee the correct place to ask about flashing a zzh with the Zigbee firmware?
If I add devices via the UI rather than config.php, will that be an either or, does it add it to config.php, or does it just use both?
#zigbee-archived @pulsar mauve - assuming you've already read the instructions in the ZZH docs about how to flash
There is no config.php @buoyant dune ;)
But yes, HA loads from both the YAML and the UI configs
So if I have a roku device set up and the integration "present" all that's left is to set up the card, right now it's at the default, but I'd like it to act more as a remote. Is the only option here to simply install a custom card from github?
@winged knoll
Well, cards are a #frontend-archived thing, and I have no idea about Roku - I don't use my UI as an oversized remote control π
Fair enough! I'm getting the basics down, then I plan on integrating it fully. Otherwise most of my spare time lately has been getting swag and letsencrypt set up so I can have alexa interact with things
Team. I have a sensor which feeds me an output, and i need to translate that output into the proper scale. It basically gives me a number between 5813 - 29390, and I need to change the scale to 0-2000
Can this be done on the home assistant front end, or do I need to do it in the code?
You'd do it with #templates-archived
Hey,
Is there any way we can control LG HVAC system which supports LG Smart Thinq?
If yes, what all component would be required to set it up? Thanks!
Have you looked at https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations yet?
yep
If it's not there, there's no built in option, but Google should find you something
I googled Home Assistant LG HVAC and found a custom #integrations-archived
thanks. what I wanted to know is - has anyone tried it, and the if I'd require any physical component to enable the setup (apart from the HVAC system obv.)?
yes - I did. Thanks.
Alot of talk around NFC tags at the moment but my phone doesnt support NFC π¦ Anyone know if its practical or possible to have a seperate reader that would serve a similar purpose?
@formal pecan did you see this? https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2020/09/15/home-assistant-tags/
See also #tags-archived
ah sorry, didnt see the new channel
me either heh
anyone use IR pucks? i just got one and i dont think i can use if for HA but im wondering if there is one that does work with HA
is that like one of those broadlink RM things?
yeah, the broadlink IR blasters work locally with HA @ripe girder
i have two of them
Awesome!
You can't use combee zha to interact with tiling plugs righ?
If they're not Zigbee, no
ok ordered thank you @glossy prism
@hard tinsel Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
@winged knoll thanks
Does anyone have any recommendation on motion sensor hardware for use in automating lights on/off? Perhaps a multi-sensor so it can do other things too. Are the DIY ones by BRUH Good? I have a 3D printer so I could make it pretty easy. I'm in the UK, I don't really have a budget, interested in what my options are, have no protocol preference since I'm just getting started π
Depends on whether you want "compact and nice looking" or "cheap"
Cheap means DIY is fine, the other option means you're buying
There's good Z-Wave multi-sensors (Fibaro and Aeotec)
There's no good Zigbee ones, but you can buy separate sensors for a fraction of the cost of one Z-Wave π
I see, I do think the BRUH ones look perfectly fine, Apart from looks, is there any functionality downsides/upsides?
You may have to do some tinkering to avoid interference, but π€·
and now I just googled the Aeotec ones...they do look really nice lol
They are, though the Fibaro ones are actually slightly nicer in person
I guess the downside is that the aeotec/fibaro ones are just motion, while the BRUH is a multi sensor, but I can see now that the others definitely look better. Would be interesting to make a good looking DIY alternative
Ah, no, the Aeotec and Fibaro are multi
Motion + Temperature + light level, and in the case of the Aeotec also humidity
Ah cool, then yea, maybe tempted to pick up one of those instead, thanks for the info π
They're not cheap, but they work really well
Indeed, Β£50 each, I guess I'd also need a Z-Wave USB dongle too?
Yup
So, a Zigbee motion sensor, temperature humidity sensor, and light sensor would set you back about Β£30 for the three...
You could then place each where it works best
I'm guessing that's a better solution?
Cheaper anyway
Better is relative
That Β£20 per room saving soon adds up, and would probably pay for window sensors for each room
yea, I want to do that too, I'm in a rented place atm so looking at the stuff I can easily take with me when I move next year, want to do all the things once I've got my own place π
I love the Xiaomi motion sensors that I've had for a couple of years now. So if you choose to go with zigbee, I would recommend those
do like Xiaomi, I have a yeelight already and it's good π
my logic would be that separate sensors would be better too, then they could be positioned in better locations
The Xiaomi Mija light sensor is awesome, the Aqara temperature/humidity sensor is really good. Their motion sensor is, compared to others, simply ok, but ... it works
I see, is there a better zigbee motion sensor you'd recommend?
Just for reference, what's the difference between motions sensors you've had Tinkerer? I've only tried to Xiaomi so far
Z-Wave ones are very tuneable, Zigbee ones aren't tuneable at all
I've heard that the Hue motion sensor may be good, but I don't have one to try
right, didn't think about the tuning
For Zigbee I've got:
- Aqara - ok
- Konke - can't get it paired π¬
Z-Wave: - Fibaro - rock solid, but does tend to eat batteries
- Aeotec - had some issues, but runs on USB power
Part of me is tempted to do option C: Design my own wall mountable case that looks like an Aeotec and takes the BRUH innards
Biggest issue with DIY is the power consumption I think
the xiaomis I have, have been running on the same battery for two years now
I want to try the BlitzWolf, CR Smart Home, HEIMAN, and iHORN ones - they all look ok and work with Z2M
that's pretty impressive, I was leaning more towards wiring everything, but with a battery life rated in years it doesn't seem worth the hassle
the hue motion sensor is top-tier tbh
Even the Fibaro goes 6+ months on batteries
it's just incredibly expensive for a zigbee motion sensor
i was able to find them for 20 USD at best buy one time though. should have bought a few because i've never seen that deal since
And the Hue is relatively large and ugly π
https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/smart-tech/smart-tech/smart-home/smart-security-and-cctv/philips-hue-hue-smart-motion-sensor-10168910-pdt.html?istCompanyId=bec25c7e-cbcd-460d-81d5-a25372d2e3d7&istFeedId=2f489429-2329-4fcd-941a-a6a497a10e1d&istItemId=wtilqwapi&istBid=t this one? It doesn't seem that expensive
indeed
The Xiaomi ones are about Β£10
I see
also another fun question, what's the deal with range on these things? I mean Zigbee is obviously some RF protocol, I can't imagine a USB stick getting enough range to decently cover a typical home?
Mesh
Mesh
It's a mesh network
It's a mesh network
ahh, fancy
clearly you two are twins lol
π
you're the end device
suppose it brings me to the logical next question, is there any recommendation for zigbee USB sticks (again, in the UK)
I see, will do some googling first but I have a bit of a better picture now than when I started, thanks π
check the topic too π
See also ...
There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:
deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are support. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended, but there are other options. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively, with no native UI. It uses MQTT for control and configuration, but there are third party UIs. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the Zig-Ah-Zig-Ah! and Slaesh's sticks being recommended. The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and adding unsupported devices is also documented.
long shot but has anyone taken apart a beko coffee machine? I want to see if mine has a UART
then take it apart π
doit
I'm gonna do it once i've moved house
I took apart the coffee machine at my old work to fix a pump, that literally had an rs232 on the back. My machine doesn't appear to have anything, but you gotta assume it'll have a UART inside somewhere
The abode gen 1 gateway has a 6-pin header. Can't get anything to show up in the console though
Hi all, got into Home Assistant after using the manufacturer apps for some time. To get to the point: I'm using sensors connected to Tuya/Smart Life but as you may well be aware their API doesn't expose sensors. So I'm looking for a good replacement source for sensors that works great with Home Assistant. Are the Xiaomi Aqara range of sensors any good? Other brand recommendations? Thanks!
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
If you're looking for a range of different sensor types, I'd suggest starting with Zigbee (see the pinned messages in the #zigbee-archived channel)
The Xiaomi sensors in combination with their bridge is Zigbee I think. But I don't know if that brand is particularly well supported by Home Assistant
I see here that there might be some issues with different bridge revisions: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/xiaomi_aqara/
They're supported by the Zigbee integrations you can use
Don't waste your time with their bridge π
I use a stack of them with Zigbee2MQTT, others use them with zha, and others use them with deCONZ
Hm, but Zigbee does require getting a radio right? How would I handle connecting multiple radios on different locations to the same HA installation?
I'm using a Raspberry pi to run HA on btw
But I want to use sensors at different physical locations (two houses that are not in range of each other) without them being separate houses
Separate houses as in different HA installations
That's fine
You'll need connectivity between them (eg with a VPN) and you can easily run (say) a remote Zigbee2MQTT install in the other house
I have a VPN connection so thatβs cool. Iβll look into zigbee2mqtt then!
Thanks!
No worries
@wide sleet posted a code wall, it is moved here --> https://paste.ubuntu.com/p/7D34shH6VQ/
I have some lifx bulbs in a scene and those bulbs, I have the effect set to lifx_effect_colorloop, which was done via the UI. It works if you invoke the effect manually. But when you activate the scene, even though the effect was set to effect_loop, it still won't loop. I have to go to the bulb and manually set it each time. When looking at the scene's yaml, this is what I have in there, which was created when I set it via the UI: ^
I did have effect: lifx_effect_colorloop right above effect_list but it keeps disappearing
I don't know if anybody else has seen this but for some reason tasmota devices just randomly cannot connect to the mqtt service on home assistant. In the tasmota log it just says connection failed. I am able to get to the ip address of the tasmota device. I can get into hass.io and issue a ping command to the devices ip addres and it will come back with no responce. If i try it again it says it is alive and the device reconnects.
What's your MQTT broker?
mosquitto i got it from the add-on store
Anyone have a reliable way of sensing if a key lock is engaged on a front door? I want to integrate this, but Iβm only going to get one chance to not ruin the door frame so want to make sure itβs done right the first time
@verbal magnet door/window sensor. nothing to ruin
For a lock? Like on a door handle or a deadbolt?
Hi, is there any way to add nest thermostats to HA. I have wached many videos and they said it was no longer I went on the intergations page on the main website of ha and found of yaml file syaing nest: and then enter your info. It connected but then it says to authorize your acount and then there is a link you have to click and it opens like a nest login page where you have to enter your info. I do but it doesn't go through or does it let me reset the password. It there a work around on this or is there something i can buy to make it work,
Sorry, I may have been a little unclear, I am looking for a way to detect if the deadbolt has been engaged from the door being locked
I'd like to be able to bring up a notification on our mobile phones if we leave the house and manage to get a certain distance away without the door being locked
In which case a door/window sensor would only be suitable to tell us after the fact if someone decided to walk in
Unless the deadbolt is smart you need some kind of sensor to either see if it is engages (pushable ones) or something to notice if it is in contact inside( pushing on something or a distance / metal sensor)
door/window reed switch on the deadbolt latch. magnet sticks to levver, switch connects to door. ugly but works
@verbal magnet , how about a zwave lock?
@fringe moon That is what I was thinking, a magnetic/distance sensor or an engagement switch, was just wandering if anyone had done something like this
I appreciate that a lock only keeps and honest person honest
but I also have a deep distrust in smart locks
I'd like to how to get a thing into the door frame
it is metal
so I'm only going to get one chance to not mess it up
otherwise it could be a costly mistake
A door and frame like this
a straight unit on the door with a handle and a key mechanism below it
key engages a deadbolt and 2 clips top and bottom
whatever I fit I will have to drill/dremel into the frame
unless there's a better solution
Just a point, you donβt trust locks so you would rather weaken your door frame at the deadbolt ?
Well, anything that detects the deadbolt engaging is going to have to be close enough to the deadbolt to detect it, which means, you will change the integrity of the frame
I've been thinking of drilling a small hole in the frame from the back of the deadbolt hole to the wall and putting a push switch in that
it shouldnt change the integrity much
I'd have thought
and lets be honest if someone really wants in theyll just smash a window
I just want piece of mind that the doors are locked
Right, which contradicts your fear of smart locks.
How exactly?
I'm genuinely intrigued I specialise in IT security
So my distrust is at a technical level of how hard it is to bypass a smart lock
How exactly do you think someone will intercept your zwave lock with a secure inclusion?
it would be easier to kick in the door than to hack a smart lock and faster too just fyi
for starters why would I use zwave
Why wouldnβt you?
there a lot less criminals with deep knowledge of wireless hacking than ones with a crowbar
like a lot
Hacking a Z-Wave smart lock requires close proximity, and the encryption keys
And more skill than any typical burglar is likely to have
So thatβs like 4 people telling you otherwise π
Hell, hacking secure Z-Wave devices doesn't seem to be a thing that's talked about at all
I'd be a lot more worried about WiFi or Bluetooth
I was just more intrigued about how zwave got into the conversation
"Most secure" option
Because of what Tinkerer said
"Most secure" option
@winged knoll buy a bank vault, live in it xD
Well, that's one option
I'm contemplating https://nuki.io/en/smart-lock/, and it's not even Z-Wave
no matter the protocol the point is that doors are locked against opportunistic criminals not "professional" burglars
i presume you don't use remote locking on your cars?
Two neighbours have had break-ins here. Both left their car keys sitting on a windowsill visible to the world, both had their cars stolen. Nothing else
I've left my car unlocked on the drive overnight more than once π¬
Unlocked car without keys is harder to drive away with if you don't know what you're doing π
I left my keys in my motorcycle overnight once, gave myself a stern telling off the next morning and haven;t managed to do it again yet
i'd never buy a smart lock that couldn't be unlocked manually from the outside
Yeah, but nobody even stole any of the contents
@runic drift That's why I like the look of the Nuki
it's a game of luck and having insurance
as the police dont give a shit about thieves anymore
And making your house look less attractive than the others around π
Dog + alarm helps
considering the odds of someone coming through your front door and what method as to which they do it I wouldn't even consider risking messing up my door or frame just to appease a fear
Mostly I'd like a smart lock so that I can unlock the door remotely when somebody forgets their keys
cough wife cough
but don't they need those keys for other things? lol
Based on what you lot have said I may just get in contact with some local access control companies
common reason to get a smart lock π
have a professional solution installed
Yeah, and we've got a house alarm, so even if somebody manages to hack the lock the alarm would go off, and then the dog would attack them come and demand snacks
what would be the professional solution in this case
Expensive
dog snacks and shots are also expensive
@runic drift https://www.tedsystems.com/3-types-access-control-which-right-building/ this kind of thing
where they fit an accredited system
That meets the requirements of the buildings insurance
Then I maybe wouldnt even have to care about having to go back to lock, could just make it auto lock when I get far enough away if it isnt already locked
the solution costs more than the whole door and frame.. makes sense
maybe you should just get in the habit of making sure you lock the door
I should make it clear, I don;t want to mess up my door and frame, but I am not averse to the cost
I am half considering going Control4 or Savant over Home assistant because they have a nicer UI
So I'd prefer to not bring budget into the conversation
well if you got money to burn then go for it
I always thought the nicer and more secure someone's entry way looked the more appealing it was for someone to break in it lol
Hm, I have an alarm on all my cars which remote locks them. Also, light is your biggest deterrent
Prob not these days. People are numb to alarms.
there's an idea, hire a front door security guard
There's a bunch of posts on the forum, and elsewhere, about detecting locks - but it requires embedding things in the frame to detect the position of the bolt
It's a very hacky DIY thing though
there's an idea, hire a front door security guard
@runic drift I may be able to afford an access control; system, not sure I could afford to pay someone a yearly salary to sit at my front door
I saw a commercial where flo from progressive stood watch over people's homes
Flo doesnβt pack a .40, I do π
That's a very "you don;t live in europe" comment
Also if my alarm goes off, it turns on every common area light I. The house
cameras and an alarm sign seem to keep most out, those who are still willing to preceed are the type that smash your window and by pass the door lol
Any of you ever looked into those systems that fill rooms with dense fog when the alarm goes off?
The only goal is to make your house less attractive than the neighbors, unfortunately
I should comment I'm not sure that sort of thing interests me
False positives π€£
just in case i triggered it myself
I would be shocked if someone in this server had some elaborate alarm system from the movie mission impossible
Been watching the instagram stories recently of a company that's started fitting them in the UK
Not sure I like the idea of result of me accidentally setting off the alarm
No idea, I assume it's non toxic to be allowed to install it in a home
still has to cause some kind of respiratory issue over long exposure
maybe?
Why would you want to limit visibility? What you do to the bad guy, you also do to yourself
In Europe you can;t defend your home with a firearm
as you cant even own one
so you have to come up with alternatives
How about a knife? Or a bat?
As I said, dog + make your house less attractive
I would rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6π
if you beat the shit out of a burglar they can charge you with grievous bodily harm
Just me though
It's a way more complicated than that - if you beat on somebody who's defenceless sure, but defending yourself is different
Maybe a bat is too Freedom country. A cricket stick π€£
Or a hockey stick
You're only allowed cabers (aka tree trunks) once you're in Scotland
Lmao, could you imagine breaking in a house and meeting a bloke with a tree trunk.
Talk about quickly un-assing a situation
I've found that simply being crazier than the person breaking in does wonders. Take off all your clothes and start screaming and charging the robber. No one wants to fight a naked dude. Bonus points for a firearm.
naked man with a firearm, sounds like a nightmare
Or the start of a good story...
i see none of you have been to Florida. That barely makes the back page anymore
assault with a reptile is more newsworthy
Does the Shelly Dimmer (1 or 2) allow dimming of the circuit while also allowing the physical switch to operate somewhat normally? Is there a special kind of switch I would need for that? (US Wiring w/ neutral wire)
It should have two wires that connect to the physical switch
isn't that most switches? π
on/off is how most switches work, yes π
Could anyone help with rebooting a tasmoda light switch via mqtt? The Web UI is down but MQTT is working. I don't want to flip the breaker
It's like this for every light switch I have for some reason, all the web ui are down but MQTT is working.
cmnd/%topic%/webserver 2 or cmnd/%topic%/restart 1
try using setoption41 to stop the webui to become nonreponsive
Oh cool, didn't know it was a feature I guess?
This is my first mqtt public manually how do I what topic to put?
Is it just the 4176DE_RL_1 shown in the image?
Sorry don't know what topic is set as, is it published somewhere? It's not shown in root of mqtt explorer
Could I find it in HA somewhere?
if you don't know your device topic noone does
look for LWT in mqtt info for that device in HA
Alright I look for that. Is the command you posted cmnd.. published as raw?
its just 1 number, you cannot post it as anything else anyway
Oh gotcha,
https://blakadder.com/pir-in-tasmota/ cool post was looking it over.
I use wyze sense and while crazy user friendly batteries are getting to be a pain. Might be looking for new wall switch with PIR.
Was able to restart a light switch sweet, thanks! I'll try that setoption.
anyone have home thermostat that looks super slick and doesnt require an over-the-internet API to manage it?
@half leaf physical buttons? Or a screen?
so my sony tv is turning itself on every four hours for about 10 minutes then turns itself off again and I can't figure out what's causing it
home assistant's log says that the state changes to playing but it's not really showing what or why
I don't have any automations set up for the tv either
some magic packet is being tossed around your network ?
Is it turning on, or just reporting on?
@fringe moon no real opinion - would love to find something the quality of nest or ecobee.. im just tired of having their APIs fail, and its silly to have to reach out over the internet to do basic things
Well, that is what I asked
Buttons or just a screen
So, you want a full local solution
With control, buttons and maybe even a screen
@half leaf you can connect ecobee to home assistant via HomeKit Controller for full local control. You won't have all the functionality of the cloud API, but at least it'll be local
I built my thermostat schedule with a few home assistant automations
Venstar is popular for local control: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/venstar/
oo i will have to look at that (the homekit controller stuff) didnt realize
hrm any good guides on how to get homekit controller to actually work?
only seems to pick up my bridge even tho i have the ecobee showing a barcode
it was pretty straightforward for me
im gonna assume this is somehow related to me running HA in docker
I did have to make sure that the Ecobees weren't already paired with another HomeKit controller, and I had set them up earlier that way
Not running in host mode could cause all sorts of fun
trying to remember why im not tbqh
probably conflicts w/ something
maybe just need to setup vms
do you need bridge setup first for controller to function?
yep its host mode
damn this is going to make everything a nightmare to fix
rip saturday
just got HA set up for the first time, and I'm looking at devices I might want to acquire to set up with it - are there any good resources for device comparisons of smart lights/switches/outlets? I want to pick devices for my house based on HA integration and device quality
Hi all, i'm also very new to HA and a bit to linux. I've installed and have working a VM version of HA (per the youtube channel TheHookUp), and it has been fine expect for when I tried purchasing a Zigbee USB stick (Nortex HUSBZB-1). I've have been following the HA integration page and i'm stuck on the part of providing the "Serial device path". I cannot find ttyUSB0 the /dev/ or /dev/serial/ folders. When I take out the USB stick and put it back in, the HA output says "usb 1-2: cp210x converter now attached to ttyUSB0". I tired doing a "find" for ttyUSB0 and found it here "./sys/bus/usb-serial/devices/ttyUSB", but when I provide that as the seral path, it still says "Unable to connect to ZHA device". Am I missing a big step somewhere?
@magic niche If you go Zigbee it depends on which integration you use (see #zigbee-archived). If you go Z-Wave then any Z-Wave Plus device will work. Otherwise, just look at the integrations list
@half leaf I run in docker with the ecobee (and other IoT devices) in their own VLAN. No issues
I have mDNS reflection enabled though
@glossy prism yeah my issue is im sharing a server with a ton of containers and i wanted to semi-lock them down
im probably missing some config somewhere.. its quite the mess atm
just moving mysql/hass to bridged networking for now
which def fixed the homekit controller stuff
i may try to move hass to a raspi at some point
dont really wanna have to go overboard w/ expensive virtualization just to solve this
and prob would be nice to isolate it for uptime
Tbh I'd skip the pi entirely. I run it on a $100 mini PC with a dual-core Celeron (1.6 GHz up to 2.5 GHz), huge step above a 3B+ and probably still better than a pi 4
i am a bit worried about the pi handling all of this
I started on a 3B+ and it was fine but the mini PC was like a night and day difference
Lemme find an Amazon link (I'm in the US)
also while folks are around.. any way to hint at homekit rooms/etc for future re-configuration? kind of like you can with google home integration
Looks like it's out of stock, but this is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T5DTNPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XXKzFb1V0FSYA
i had an intel nuc before that used to act as my server.. was a bit pricier, and refused to boot after moving :/
will have to explore tho, thanks
Hi, I recently did a update of home assistant but after reboot the webgui wont startup I can only see a login screen in the console (attaching screen to my rpi) which says "Welcome to Home Assistant, homeassistant login:"
Do any of you know what I could do to fix it?
Going to #330990055533576204 and getting help there is probably a good idea
ok, thanks
not sure if this is the right channel but are there any recommendations for water sensors?
I have a smartthings water sensor currently but need to pick up an additional one
Hi is there a way to read imageβs pixel color or brightness and make sensor out of it?
not sure if this is the right channel but are there any recommendations for water sensors?
@pine apex I've been following this thread on the forums: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/govee-wifi-water-sensor/213277/28
hi everyone! I'm using fibaro rollershuter for both my awning and my blind rollers. I would like to remove the one used in my awning from the main group. Currently when I say "Hey Siri, roll down the blinders" my awning is also commanded and I would like to narrow down the group so that that does not happen.
@pine apex If you're already using Zigbee then the #zigbee-archived channel can likely suggest more, but I know a few folks are using the Xiaomi ones
Is there anyway to rename my iOS devices? For some reason phone gets called "name_s" and the other just "names" while both are called "Name's" in iOS.
Hello Community, I use Xiaomi Wireless Switch with AlexxIT's Gateway3 integration. I created a simple automation what is Toggle Livingroom Light when status of the SwitchSensor is changed. Every 3rd or 4th click is double and turning on and off in 1 second. I cannot really use it with events because in event there is no changes, changing from button:1 action:single -> button:1 action:single.
Hi everybody!
I'm using a door sensor (xiaomi, added through MQTT) to check if my door is locked (not closed) or not. The thing is that the setup requires the reverse to be true/false (if the sensor is closed - the door is unlocked).
Is there anyway to reverse the status of the sensor, also maybe the name of the status (closed -> locked; open -> unlocked)?
added through MQTT means what exactly?
Please forive the terminology, I'm a newbie.
It's a zigbee type door sensor (from xiaomi) which appears as an entity through the Mqtt integration
so you're using zigbee2mqtt?
yes
you can create a new template sensor using states of the existing one or create a new mqtt sensor where you will change device class and payloads
I wanted to avoid using a template and now, that you've asked me about zigbee2mqtt I've refined my search. I've just found the solution posted on a forum, it states exactly what you've proposed - just modify the sensor data, delete the original sensor, and redetect it.
Thanks a lot, didn't think to add zigbee2mqtt π
OK, I have a z wave dimmer switch I want to connect to a flood light that is not dim-able - is there a way to configure HA dimmer to be a straight forward on/off switch?
does anyone know if a GU10 RGB "dumb" light exists?
I mean one that takes RGB + 12/24V instead of 220V or whatever
What
A dumb RGB GU10 that does 12/24v
That's an interesting question
Takes RGB
π§ββοΈ
Found some on google.
https://www.leditnow.gr/led-spot-gu10-1-led-3w-12v-30-rgb-me-4-kalodia.html
and some on alli, but that are gone ...
I have no idea why you wouldn't just go ZigBee RGB
wire are 100% better <3
π€’
every one have they world; i know when i get a new house, i'll wire everything. zwave had me want to tear it appart, and i'm very anoyed of some of my hue light not turning off, and me having to wait 10 sec for the bridge to pull them and let me turn them off again
(also no standby power <3 )
I run 90zigbee devices, I've had no issues in..... 6 months, except for a battery that ran out in a door sensor
Is it possible to use a sensor connected to a pi in h-a?
Less devices
More dependencies on a single device is 100x worse
I have a central h-a installation and then vpn to each location where i have a pi and a display
@humble lion yeah, for that you need to have h-a running on the pi
sorry, read it after sending the first link
so basicaly, mqtt or remote ssh commande
I run 90zigbee devices, I've had no issues in..... 6 months, except for a battery that ran out in a door sensor
I have so much issue with wireless device that i'm sure there is something in my neighborhood that broadcast noise ... nothing work well aside WIFI
The cover thing could work, yes
if you know a bit of programing, i would recomande making a quick python script that pool your pin, and publish to ha via the web api
it's very easy actualy, i am nothing of a dev and done something like that to see if my computer was on
Or mqtt over the internet
you can use mqtt to for sure, but if you have to do some python to push to mqtt, might as well push to ha directly if you don't need mqtt
just in case you need it @tender aurora, my old code https://community.home-assistant.io/t/linux-gnome-retreive-the-lock-or-unlock-state-of-your-linux-computer/181489
thank you @humble lion
hop you find something that match your need
@fringe moon client wants to keep using wall switches with the lights. With these I can use a shelly dimmer or something like that
you mean shelly rgb i hop, XD
if i'm not wrong, the dimmer will send 120/240v in your 12v bulb
but if it's for a client, i would go against ... they will never find replacement if it burn up
agains?
sorry, my T didn't want to come
any idea how to solve the issue I have?
or to put it better, fulfill the requirement
client wants RGB smart lights that can also be turned on / off from the switches he has in place already
is your gu10 for a in-wall fixture ?
yes
the you have many in wall, rgb controled, spotlight
a good brand will allow to find a replacement one day
the issue is that if the client turns off the power from the wall then the lights stop working
yea yea yea, no issue there, let me find what i am talking about
another solution would be to use smart GU10 lights and then to find a device like the shelly 1, except that it sends a zigbee signal that can be paired with the bulbs
so in the event that the zigbee controller dies the lights and switches still work
damn me, can't find the name of light like that https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-10X-10W-RGB-LED-Panel-Light-Dimmable-Recessed-Ceiling-Downlight-Colorful-Lamp/124212970201?hash=item1cebab82d9:g:888AAOSww0he~qsz&var=425101975781
they are some of thos who just have rgb+ground wire for a shelly rgb
do they fit in a standard GU10 hole?
some yea
I don't think it's an issue to make the holes a bit bigger anyway
but that's great to know
ok the key word is downlight
I see the ones you linked come with a controller
I would probably skip the controller and go into the shelly, right?
that was just to show you how they look like
do you know of any reputable brands options for those?
@humble lion i have written the script to get the output
@humble lion so now i just need to submit it
Paolo no i don't, i'm looking but i feel like my googlefu is failing me :( i know i've seen some that fit what you need
thank you so much anyway, you've pointed me in the right direction