#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 71 of 1
Thx! I will take a look
THX for your question... I just ordered 2 🙂
it's tuya junk
I have 4 ( or 6) like that and they are full zigbee compliant
if not they will be returned 🙂
No extra software/registration. press 10 seconds and ... connected in zha 😉
tuya zigbee compliant is an oxymoron
i know. It's always stressing me too
that's why i'm staying with the 2 models i'm currently using...
if you lookup that model on the z2m products page does it have a warning about blackholing routes or any other known issues?
that's something to check before ever clicking purchase
zha recognize them as TS011F by TZ3000_xxxxx
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS011F_plug_1.html looks like shit to me yo
Integrate your Tuya TS011F_plug_1 via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
No issues here, not the same version i guess
I would immediately know if they switch off randomly. One is currently measuring power consumption of my server for 18 months 😉
Hi, I'm a super beginner at HA things with a raspberry pi..
I have a Quntis lightbar with its RF (i think) remote and I wanted to know what steps I need to take to have it be integrated with Home Assistant and eventually to Google Home as a custom device
It has 4 brightness modes, 4 light temp modes, and a power button on the remote
I tried to look this up but I couldn't make heads or tails of this project and wanted some guidance as a first timer.
It looks like the first step is to figure out the Radio Frequency of the item?
rf? some diy shit or possibly a bond bridge or broadlink rm3/rm4 (most people say bond is better ive never used either)
personally i'd not go down this path as a beginner as rf is ancient and a lot of the stuff you have to do to get it to work is such a hassle compared to zigbee/zwave etc
https://www.quntis.com/collections/monitor-light-bar looks like some aliexpress light bar?
Illuminate your desktop with the Quntis monitor light bar. This easy to install lamp clamp provides extra lighting without taking up space. Adjust brightness and color temperature remotely. Free shipping over $59.
Hmm spending a $100 bond bridge to control my lightbar from my phone seems a tad silly, hence the HA route
https://www.quntis.com/products/screenlinear-hy214-backlight-monitor-light-bar-with-desk-top-dial
Yeah this one, got it from amazon
Find computer light bar at low price here. Two colors available black and pink. Stepless dimming and 3 color temperatures create the best suitable ambient lighting. Asymmetric optical design protect your eye. No glare and no flicker alleviate eye strain. The lighting it project is even and bright help you work effectively.
here's a guy talking about the quntis and a bond bridge
what do you think home assistant is controlling? the bond bridge
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/controlling-roller-shutters-using-a-remote-with-rolling-codes/453336 you can do this type of thing if you are a diy person
A friend mentioned he wished his roller shutters could be controlled using his Google Home. He did some research and went and bought a Broadlink but got annoyed when it didn’t work as expected. I had a look at the remotes his roller shutters used and found them to be 433 mhz that seem to use some sort of proprietary rolling code arrangement. It...
I'll take a look, thanks!
🥲 okay yeah i thought it would be as simple as buying a basic RF antenna for rasppi and code the hell out of it but this got a whole lot more complex haha
guess ill look into bond bridges
No, that's not so easy;-) hopefully 😉
The bond bridge is, without hesitation, the worst smart device I’ve ever owned.
dude so many people like it
it wasnt hardware related?
Literal trash
like a possible bad device?
I will never find out
well i didnt want to link him to a super diy project like i did
here's my writeup
and i only made it cuz i thought i needed it for my ac unit. turns out it uses IR and i should've just looked at the fucking remote
I think Code in progress uses the broadlink and likes it.
I only bought the bond for my ceiling fans and the reliability was terrible. Returned and got canopy modules— zero regrets.
inovelli canopy modules binded to inovelli switches?
so like $100+ a fan?
but reliable and worth it?
No switches but yes. Super reliable, actually reports states.
you just dont touch the wall switch?
Everything is automated to temp sensors in the specific room
you had to remove the ceiling fan completely not just the "middle part" to fit the canopy module right?
Negative
i have a sonoff ifan04 and it was way too big to fit "in the middle"
I was able to just drop the canopy cover and replace the rf module with the inovelli.
The inovelli defaults to off on power up so you don’t take your head off
i gotta watch some videos on it and see what im in for
Good luck 🍀
I have the speed test integration running and after changing routers a few months ago I only get about half speed. It has nothing to do with the router, as I get full speed on other devices. My intel NUC running home assistant is not for some reason…
what speed are you seeing on the NUC vs. other machines? How are the nuc vs. the other machines connected to the network?
Cable. Same as before the router change.
About 50% speed compared to before the router change. I have 500/500, but only get around 350 download and 150-200 upload.
Other machines also connected via cable.
Did you try a different cable? Also, speed tests can be affected by disk I/O as well (it is not strictly a network test).
I mean, it’s not impossible that it’s something with the hardware. But man, you can see the exact date when I installed a new router on long term statistics. The odds of something to break that exact date?
Also, could it be a limitation of the nuc network card?
NIC cables go bad more often than not. Plus... port sensing on the new router/switch could be different than on the old one (maybe throwing the port into 10/100 mode or something like that). I've seen stranger things happen.
That's the first time I've seen someone refer to ethernet cables like that. I haven't had any fail on me. At least i can't remember.
Interesting theory about 10/100 though, but that would probably show in the router UI, no? According to UniFi the connection is GBe.
Old school
Yeah. But, also check the port speed on your NIC on the NUC as well.
Old*
Shush. 🙂
probably when it was in conjuntion with 10/100
Yup. That ^^^
Test iperf3 then chase dragons
How can I tell if the port would be thrown into 10/100? Can’t find anything in HA
You need to test that on the NUC itself. Are you running VM or HAOS bare metal?
UniFi switchport would not have auto negotiated at GbE if it wasn’t
HAOS bare metal I guess. core?
Haos. Core is a part of haos or an install method
It could easily be drivers for haos I guess
Ahhhh @cold moon good point... I didn't even think of that.
I mean the hardware is all the same, the cabling is all the same. I have actually restored HA a while ago… the only thing different is the router.
You said Unifi right? Did you do anything like setup throttling or something like that? VLANs?
Ya if it’s not on an l3 switch doing a bunch of intervlan routing that would be a choke point
I mean the router absolutely sucks 😂 whenever I use a VPN I get 100% CPU and about 5% of total connection speed.
That said, that would affect all network devices, not just the NUC and HA.
And I still get full speed on gaming PC so. I have tested different speed tests to, to make sure it’s not speedtest.net at fault.
do a live boot linux usb stick
and see if you can get full speeds on that
then you isolate it to n100 (or whatever your mini pc is) + haos (drivers maybe?)
I actually have one laying around somewhere so I might try that. Is that a thing? Some routers not getting along with Linux?
no
haos is a purpose built os with a bunch of shit stripped out of it, or rather built up with the parts needed
so it's possible that haos doesnt currently have a driver that is working correctly - at least that's my initial guess with no logs or anything
what mini pc is it
I understand. I actually went to school for network engineering a long time ago so I’m not totally lost. Still it’s like ducking witchcraft sometimes.
Intel NUC
like ccna classes or?
this isnt descriptive enough to help at all lol
Haha give me a sec
We have different school system in Sweden. I did three years of network engineering after “regular” school. From 16 years of age
what did you learn
The model number is NUC8BEH
so no school shooter drills?
when did you buy this and for how much money?
😂 no unfortunately not.
lol I don’t know. About 200$ four years ago I guess
No it’s been up for a while. Been running great actually. I just want to make sure nothing is “off” with it. Thanks for taking the time!
U should run some real network speed test ( i mean using lan only) ... for sure iperf3 is not installed by default on HAOS. U can start with a flood ping ...
either with a copy-paste trough samba ....
I have been running into iperf3 a few times when troubleshooting stuff but always felt intimidated but it. I might take an afternoon and learn it though. Seems like a good software to have in your toolbelt. Thank you!
u can already test samba speed 😉
Yeah I guess a regular file transfer would be a good first step… not a bad idea at all actually.
impact we need an iperf3 haos guide 😉
apk add iperf
apk add iperf3
One of these in the SSH addon should do. You probably can't "open" ports so use it as client from the HAOS side.
Hello, very new to all this. Does anyone know if its possible to use a USB drive thats setup as a network drive to be the HA backup location? The drive will not be connected to the HA machine directly
(?) usb drive , as a network drive, not direcly connected to HA .... (?????)
If u connect this drive to a server and share it .... or if u have a NAS .... or install a linux and share it ...
I was puzzled at first too but I assume they plug it into their router or something that provides a samba share. If they knew specifics they probably would have provided them so that was my thinking.
Nice catch @golden thorn ... I always forgot this option 😉 ....
Let's hope samba V1 is still supported 😉
No !!.... For the CIFS option, only version 2.1+ is supported.
I don't use this myself but I remember there was an option to support this once in the early days. Things move so fast and yet stay the same 🧓
Apparently I am not! Apparently they don't sell to UK or EU at all, and any products that land here are unofficial imports and they don't intend to come to this market at this time
So if I want my E14s I'm gonna have to import them from Aussieland
Yeah I thought we figured that out before, no?
Not that they don't sell anything in the UK at all
Oh.
UK or EU
Dumb.
Anything that lands here is unofficial distributors
Why can’t you rewire the lamp again?
Or get it rewired?
Design doesn't seem to really allow for that
I actually think that would be relatively easy.
It's also not just the socket
It's the size
What I don't want is a bulb sticking out the front
Eh. Maybe I'll look into it at some point. The lamp literally cost me £3 so I'm not particularly incentivised to start modifying it to work
Also very fair
Once you play with wled and esp32 devices with led strips and pixels then everything looks pretty easy or worth modifying
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005060846690.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4e7c38da09QNoB&mp=1
hey guys would this be a good dashboard for home assistant
I'm comfortable with that, I just don't wanna screw up a lamp which I want to throw in a corner and cast colour onto ceiling and wall. Its sockets are fine, I just wanna throw some bulbs in
Low effort, I really don't need another project 😂
I have more projects than hours in the day to do them in
Hi,
I am new to Home Assistant and I would like to add my Bluetooth speakers to my Home Assistant Green. Is that possible? I have already set up the ESP32 for Bluetooth, but I can't identify my devices. If I can't do it via Bluetooth, can you please tell me the proper way to do it?
Thanks for your attention. I am looking forward to your reply.
Hi,
any recommended Mini pc with dual nic and dual SSD optons?
Did your Pi die? Was that what happened with your instance? Pretty sure you can find a N100 with dual nics. Not sure about the dual SSD though. Might have to go internal/external on that.
Usually there’s spots for 1 2.5inch ssd/hdd and an m.2 b/m key nvme or ssd
But he might want to do some research on the mini pc and see if guys on Reddit or other forums have some info on them
Yeah, I wasn't sure if the N100 supported that or not. I know some do, some don't.
Like a lot of the mini pcs fall on their face with some expected use cases
Like the nic sucks or driver limitations or heat dissipation issues
My go to recommendation the beelink n100 s12 pro for $150-200 depending on sales has the ssd slot plus m.2 ssd
But not double eth ports
I have 5 cameras in my house, and none of them show up in home assistant 😂🤪. 2 ip camera's, 1 eufy doorbell, 1 on my Raspberry Pi and 1 more (web)cam on my mac mini. Any suggestions will be very welcome!?
You'll want to ask in #cameras-archived (and maybe #integrations-archived depending on what kind of ip cameras you have).
@cold moon hi again, I always thought that this microwawe sensors works like a binary sensor
why do they create a lot of traffic
Depends on the sensor and firmware
The tuya mmWave zigbee sensors spit out 3 packets a second
Not sure on sonoff
You’ll get way more positive results using something like an ld2410b where you can really tune it
hmmm I'll check zigbee2mqtt logs about traffic. I didn't know that thanks.
Lots of entities to update- granted I should really tweak my logbook
and apollo msr-2 is the sensor name?
I work part time for Apollo. We sell made for esphome devices and one of them is an mmWave sensor the msr-2 using the LD2410B mmWave sensor in it
You can diy one or buy similar hardware too
https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/msr-2/page/how-to-tune-mmwave-using-home-assistant you can use our docs if you diy one to tweak the sensor
If you're experiencing false triggers, we recommend using Radar Engineering Mode (REM) to monitor th...
wow it is very impressing. Probably I can't buy directly from you due to custom regualtions of my country but let me check the web site
People really like them. Here’s a neat way to mount them
Basically we have tiny usb c 90 degree custom pcbs in tiny 3d printed cases that attach to a small mezzanine port which allows you to have lots of mounting options
I really like this sensor. The only problem is shipping and tax costs around 80 dollars 😦
Sadcat
Even from open circuit?
We have some users that mail to a hotel when they visit the USA.. one guy just put his name and the hotel’s address but no room number or anything so he reached out saying he never got his sensor and front desk had no idea. Well turns out it was put.. in the mailbox 📪 haha
For some that may care, minis forum seems to have a sale on their refurb models
Link it yo
I got all excited when I saw "minis" there. lol
Of course you would 
-# BMW
Those look nice
Just because BMW is German doesn't mean you need to keep promoting it @terse pebble lol
Damn... those are some good prices!
Especially as they don't use very specialized cooling solutions which cost a billion bucks to replace like on beelink ones
I figured out why mine didn't want to boot, it seems like it checks for the fan to spin before doing stuff
And now you are spinning it by hand all the time?
Only for it to boot after that it doesn't care a whole lot
But I disassembled it and put it in the "emergency use only" ebin
Not for my setup... For a friend
Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but seemed the most appropriate. I am currently running ha + many services on an all in one ubuntu server. It is running ha, zwavejs, traefik, plex etc. its also where I have all my nas disks for storage.
I am noticing the effects of this as a single point if failure fir any update needs or power loss etc.
i have an unused supermicro storage bay, and an unused pi.
I want to split things up, and was considering moving all the smart home stuff (ha, zwavejs and all the hw controlles) to the pi, installing some nas os on some hw in the storage bay, and optionally get some additional hw for a separate machine to run other services. I kind if want essentials like ha and traefik on separate mavhines from media related sevices like plex or mc server etc. I cant help but feel that moving ha back to a pi (v 3b+) is a downgrade though. What do you guys think?
For the update thing you can compartmentalize your services by virtualizing: #hardware-archived message
Not a fan of the pis personally. Perhaps you can get a cheap second PC and use that as a NAS and run your services as suggested above?
Mini pc++
Might be hard to put a lot of storage into it.
Proxmox on the mini pc running hass, zwave js ui, backup adguard/pihole, etc would be all I’d run on it
And server for Plex and to house drives for nfs or smb shares or fancy iscsi stuff
Here I go down the same rabbithole, different direction, I want to smarten the light switches in my home, I have single, double and triple switches in a single box, if possible I want to retain a physical switch/button for non believers, ideas?
Do you have home assistant yet or is this new?
yes
Hue bulbs if you want smarts, inovelli zigbee switches to pair with the smart bulbs or with dumb bulbs, mini pc for hass ideally, etc etc etc
Zooz zwave switches a cheaper option
i have a few different bulbs, a hue hub, but i am looking right now for switch control, I am unsure how to control 3 individual light switches that are in one electrical box and maintain a physical switch for each
You buy 3 smart switches
Ideally with a deep box but chances are your fingers are gonna hurt when you’re done lol
so this channel also for yellow? what if I want toask about some innr powerplugs and if they do messure consumtion :)?
They don't really have much to do with each other, tbh. You mean the HA yellow, right?
no, I don't
it just there is a channel called yellow
while this one calld hardware, but the topic says it's for the yellow support
that's for like "my yellow wont boot"
so what would be the general hardware chat in this case?
this channel
ah it says "there's " ah my bad, never mind 🙂
seems like innr SP120 does support power monitoring 🙂 so all good!
lol that was weird @spring pasture 😉
Sorry didn't have my reading glasses on, old and such 🙂
is it possible to use a USB drive connected to another computer as a network storage solution for HA? i have the drive shared on my network
You already asked this and got your answer: #hardware-archived message
What more do you want to know?
Then tell us what you need to know instead of posting it again and in different channels.
This is what I want to change to smart switches
Hoping it's the right place to ask.. I have a few 'cheap' presence sensors I want to install in each room but it's getting tedious to block a socket and find a usb charger, etc.. I have 1 sonoff light switch in each room.. as I understand the ground on the flash pins is actually connected to live 240v... I was wondering if there was a way to get 5V1A through something smaller or connecting on different pins in the sonoff. Thanks!
Unlikely but not impossible
You could probably wire in a power supply to power it off that
But that's more of a #diy-archived kinda question by then
Hello, I just installed a new router and HA is having some trouble connection to my lutron hub. This makes sense considering the router did not assign a IPv4 address but rather an IPv6 address. How can I re-configure the integration to the new address?
Seeing my RPi4B with 2GB RAM struggle I got myself the 5 w/8GB
I am not at crossroads, where I have a few basic things (vpn, pihole, uptimekuma, mqtt container, etc) and HA and not sure where to put each. I have half a mind about just sticking HA on the 2GB stick and calling it a day (adding the zigbee2mqtt stick to it with maybe mqtt in docker?). Maybe even use HAOS, instead of running HA in docker.
OR do the flip side, and run HA on the 8GB PI to make sure it has room to stretch legs (I hate giving it host mode so I do a macvlan with dedicated IP, which is bit of a pain but I got it sorted)
Would love to solicit some advice froum people who've been in the same boat. I'll concide this with finally swapping out my conbee2 in favour of sonoff Plus E stick too, meaning that I potentially can use the ConBee for Matter (as I believe it's way less sensitive than zigbee anyways)?
Hi folks, quick question, I bought these bulbs earlier this year and they seem to work fine 80% of the time. But strangely at times they will lose connection and I have to shut the power down to the light fixture to reset and re-add them.
Is this a limitation of wifi bulbs due to the range?
Could be interference, could be the quality of the bulb
I've got about 8 lifx bulbs and haven't run into anything like that
Same here, around 20 LIFX lights and no issues at all
Hi, how can i check my device components from HA cli? like sudo lshw -short, but that wont work from cli
apk add lshw
lshw
any recommendations for a 20amp outlet socket with usb a connectors? USA model
Hey im wondering if someone can pls help me find an LED controller.
I have these strips: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005033457077.html and this controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003653195944.html
but ive come to realise they arent compatible.
am i correct in saying that the controller is designed for analog/non-addressable strips, and i need an SPI specific controller?
Please use normal links.
Hi all, i am from Germany (EU) and am searching for a wall thermostat 230v with Relais. I found the thermostats from homematic but i wonder if there are any similar products?
Considering that, but its more expensive than i had hoped. How is the ha green as a permanent ha device?
Buy a used (U)SFF PC or thin client on eBay. I'd recommend the former.
Ebay is expensive fir me due to postage to nirway
But thanks, will look for something good then
Is the green a rpi?
No.
I see
the green and yellow and raspis and lots of other things are called single board computers aka SBCs and most of us consider them an underpowered solution and a bad buy when there are other mini pcs that are 3-10x faster at the same costs or similar
with better hardware that will fail less often
however since you are in the EU, from what i have seen your reseller market for used electronics is ridiculously overpriced so for you guys it's usually worth it to just spend a bit extra and buy a brand new mini pc ($150usd or so here on amazon)
is there any recommendable outdoor smart plug (Hydroponics pump on balcony)? WiFi local control preferred. Hue bridge and FritzDECT available
I’d use a zooz zwave outdoor plug
I need the EU "Schuko" plug style
Maybe there's something that could be flashed with ESPHome or Tasmota at least?
Seen the Noise A4Z Dual-Sockets. But they only have a very short cable. Would need at least 50cm
Thanks, good to know 🙂
How do you call switches for light with LED lighing on when power is turned on instead of turned of? It even doesn't have to be smart home. Whatever, but I can' find any. I want to have light indicator when light in attic is turned on, because I can't see it when it is closed.
All solution have LED on when power is off, but I want to have LED on when power is on.
I could possibly use full smart home for this, but it is overkill.
"status light indicator"?
basically most of us are able to control that led and the logic it uses in our smart switches
If they are non smart you may need to check the installation documents on wether or not this is possible
The old switches (with soffits instead of LED) could just be wired the other way
They are called pilot lights, and are a few bucks on ali
I'm really not satisfied with the Phillips hue bulb here.. does anyone have any tips for (e27) rgb bulbs either on zigbee or wifi that are a bit more unidirectional?
Lots of types
unidirectionally? In what sense
the hue light i got shines primarily "upwards". this lamp is hollow and has the same glass material both for the "shade" and the base. so with a more appropriate bulb it'll all glow
naturally more where the bulb is physically, but still the base doesn't glow much with the hue bulb
There are bulbs with a reflective top coating but those tend to not be RGB or smart
You could try the normal white filament ones as opposed to the surface mounted chips that those hue bulbs usually have
Like this style of bulb
yeah, i've seen a few of those. too bad they're not rgb though
Yea this is a bit unfortunate but I haven't seen those with RGB either yet
When Edison invented the classic incandescent filament bulb in the 1880s, he could never have imagined what WiZ can do with them today! WiZ filament bulbs look great even when they’re turned off, but the real magic happens when you turn them on. These dimmable transparent smart bulbs produce millions of colors and shades of white light from cozy...
not the right socket, but intriguing nonetheless
Sadly just 300lm
yeah..
So single colors may even be significantly less bright
Not great but a start at least
i might source one just to see how it looks, but i'm kinda doubting i'd be satisfied with the lumens haha
yeah, it's not really going to be much more than a mood light in any case, but it's also the only light over in that corner. it's a few months until winter and proper darkness, but it'd be nice to have sufficient light to browse records in the evening
might need something else to back it up eventually; i'm kinda overhauling the lighting situation in my living room anyway
Personally I dig the hue light bars for my room
500lm!
yeah, i mean hue stuff is pricy af
especially compared to the cheapo wiz stuff i have elsewhere haha
Wiz is pretty much the same product just not zigbee
but, yeah, i bought my first hue bulb today and it's much better at reproducing colors imo
This is a reason why I have a lot of LIFX A19 bulbs in lamps. Like Hue's standard bulbs, their A60 mostly shines upwards. The smaller bulbs are significantly more omnidirectional
It's pricy but they usually work nicely in a mesh, just the hub is a bit limiting for more than three room setups
Ikea ones are also a good alternative for the price aware purchaser
But they don't get as bright
yeah. i don't mind running a few different vendors in any case. that's the whole point with ha in my opinion
It's something to try out definitely
If I recall those are 10-13$ per lamp
They also have cool other affordable ZigBee gear of decent quality
i've tentatively ordered one of those puny wiz bulbs, we'll see how it goes 😌
Like buttons/remotes, air quality sensors and door/window ones
I bought this Intel NUC Kit NUC6I5SYK - i5-6260U - 16GB DDR4 - 120GB SSD
Will this be enough for home assistant?
Best AV receiver ever, I can do so much, I can turn on extra bass, the enhancer, I move the dialogue level....
BUT I CAN'T CHANGE THE VOLUME WTAF YAMAHA
How much was a 6th gen intel nuc?
Paid €100
That sounds overpriced but maybe not. Whats that in freedom units again
To answer your question it will be fine but I think for a bit more money you could’ve gotten a nicer new one
It’s 110 usd around that.
Yea I have a pie 4 8gb ram and ssd but a lot of problems after 2 year and power issues.
The reason for this nuc was easy to get from a neighbor and a new one was much expensive and did not have a lot of money atm with holidays to come 😂
Hey Anyone good with inovelli Red? Ive got Zwave setup(zooz 800), working on other devices, the switch is flashing blue but HA cant find it. Any ideas?
The downclocking had been working fine for me for weeks now. I also just tried putting a heatsink on the wifi chip and running the pi with over_voltage=1. Working fine for five days now!
Could I ask if it's fully controllable through home assistant? Seems like a good choice. 🙂 wait volume not controllable? 😥
Yeah It's a really good AV receiver but I am shocked that you can't control the volume via home assistant
You can't change inputs either.
It's a big letdown honestly.
Limitation of the current integration or literally cannot be added?
definitely the current integration
the web interface for the yamaha itself supports all of that
Best air purifier is diy, will post a YouTube
100% clickbait title, but best resource I have found https://youtu.be/gaQTYrisieA
In this video, I present a staggering amount of evidence demonstrating that HEPA air purifiers are not as effective as Corsi-Rosenthal Boxes and other DIY air purifiers. I also talk to Wayne Westerman and Rob Wissmann, co-founders of the company Clean Air Kits that sells air purifiers that are quieter, more powerful, more energy efficient, and c...
those work great, but fail in
-# a e s t h e t i c s
There is a company that makes them (linked in vid). But they are ripe for an open source redesign (with aesthetics in mind)
Possibly also work with quarter round extrusions
That would look pretty good actually, and you could use very low quality ones
2020r is what they are called
I have 2 identical pi set ups one is working fine with it's nvme drive as boot drive. Second one will find the nvme drive will flash it via network installer but will not boot from it, booting from sd card I can see the nvme drive perfectly fine what gives why won't it boot from it
I've tested both nvme drives in the one that works both boot.
Are the boards different
I’m looking to setup a security solution - what is the best hardware to use?
I’m thinking Wyze hardware and create automations for my needs?
Is there a sensor that has temperature, humidity and presence?
I find sharks with lasers work best
I am not able to find how to put this type (https://www.amazon.com/Enbrighten-QuickFit-SimpleWire-Directly-43078/dp/B08Q4F43HT) of zigbee switch into pairing mode? Manual says "it's pairing when it's turned on" and yet, I cannot get it to pair. Doing a search here I didn't see anything, so figured to post.
Your entire home is smarter with the Enbrighten Zigbee In-Wall Smart Switch with QuickFit™ and SimpleWire™. Enjoy extensive control of permanently installed lights, fans and other fixtures when paired with a compatible gateway. For further convenience, the smart switch connects directly to the la...
have you factory reset and tried again?
how far away is your nearest zigbee repeater? You need to be fairly close.
barring that #zigbee-archived
I did the "10 times up" as suggested and it will seem to reset (but I cannot find if that makes the device auto pair). I have a zigbee switch that's identical to the ones I'm trying to join and it is connected to HA and I did get one connected yesterday so it seems like I've done something wrong this time around. The odd thing is, all of the ZWaves that are side by side to these have paired fine, and all of the switches (zwave or zigbee) work manually.
Is there a way that I can look at the log and see unjoined devices out there? I'm worried that since this was yesterday they have timed out and won't pair again.
(I went to Zigbee also, but for the radio side of things, hoping that works out.). Thank you for replying. 🙂
are you just assuming it will auto pair in HA?
that's what the manual says (that's all that it says actually) -- "breaker off, wire it in, put HA into pairing mode, breaker on"
or are you actually trying to "add the device in the zigbee integration?
thats all it gives me in the manual. :/
You still have to include the device in HA
Oh -- yes -- I am going to the closest one now. Yesterday I did not know that I could do that, so I was using the actual controller that was probably too far away (although it worked for one that was about 10 feet down the hall so I presumed it was using the mesh to talk)
If I'm tracking, that is going to the zigbee device closest, and choosing "add devices via this device" right?
(yesterday I just used the main "add device" which I presume was the HA USB connected Sonoff zigbee 3 which was in the basement (these devices are all on the 2nd floor)
1 worked, the other 4 did not (for zigbee) all 5 did work that were zwave right next to them. I know thats a different radio, but wiring and all of that.
anyway, I'll see if I can't go up and airgap them to try to get them to enter back in re-pair mode.
thank you again 🙂
Hey man for $50 a piece you can get inovelli blue zigbee switches. Enbrighten is considered low tier
I was paying about $22 for the switches, and $35 for the dimmers. I had to do about 80 of these bad boys so went with the budget - but do you have a link for the good switches? As these would die out, I can swap them. I do like how these can change the LED switch color to anything you want, so hoping those do something similar?
that link is $46 for me so i figured try and have you get inovelli for similar price
https://inovelli.com/collections/inovelli-blue-series i'd buy direct not from amazon for them
Explore the Inovelli Blue Series Zigbee Devices, including switches, presence sensing switches, and fan control solutions. Offering seamless compatibility with popular smart home platforms such as SmartThings, Hubitat, and Home Assistant, these Zigbee 3.0 devices are innovative, luxurious and designed to combine aesthetics and functionality seam...
they have new models shipping soon with mmwave built in which will be interesting
I was just linking it -- they drop in price so I had to use camelcamelcamel to let me know when they were brand new cheap. I've stopped doing the AMZN WHSE "like new"
Please note this is a pre-order and we are just now about to start beta testing. We're targeting a September/October release. (for the new mmwave ones)
those look cool for sure!
I really really question how useful the mmWave will be with those (and yes SHS, I know I showed them to you)- not being able to "point" the sensor seems like a huge drawback.
I have this piece of hardware, it connects to my router, I configure it through smartthings and I would like to integrate it, if possible without using the SmartThings integration as that depends on the cloud
chances are low if you are this unspecific about it
plus the traffic on the mesh
I think they’re at the very least an upgrade from the light switches with a pir built in
yeah-- probably good/great for a small space (closet)
Hi folks, I am looking to purchase a mini PC primarily for HomeAssistant but I intend to run some other software on it too (Jellyfin, an Electron app, etc.) via Docker.
I primarily want it to be affordable, but I also intend to control several devices via Matter and ZigBee so I want to ensure I can at least make it compatible with these protocols via hardware. I understand that it's common to buy USB devices that negotiate these protocols for devices where the hardware isn't integrated.
A friend of mine purchased this over the weekend; does anyone have a better recommendation before I go ahead and just buy the same thing and whatever USB dongles I expect to need?
that n100 gets recommended daily.
Just two related recommendations. Get a ethernet zigbee coordinator, install PVE on it and virtualize HAOS: #hardware-archived message
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNkVTIC will this burn my house down
Proper link: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005801861031.html
to be clear you can change the volume, but you can't control it via automation which is real annoying.
Thanks. I'm on mobile
it's tuya sooooooo
I mean does that really make it worse than any other generic
Seems like no one else makes a product like that
@cold moon @rose musk YO you can change the volume of the yamaha receiver, totally wrong earlier (which is great for me!)
Use the
media player: set volume
service call, then chose the entity from the musiccast integration. It just works a bit differently than, well, anything else I've used.
exactly
I've only wanted it to drop the volume when the youtube app is used inside my apple tv. The volume is like 30% higher in youtube then anything else.
I don't really care about anything else.
Might be a dumb question, but will any Zigbee device (like some random "Tuya Zigbee Smart Light Switch" from aliexpress) work with HA (provided it has a zigbee receiver)?
I keep going back and forth between buying that motor. Buying a whole motorized blind set and making a diy motor
This can be a point of reference
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
Nice, thanks! Looks like there's a way to adopt it even if it's not yet supported. Very cool.
My homeassistant blue been havi g troubles the last few months. Random reboots with no obvious cause. Plenty of disk afaics.and nothing in logs. Recently it not been able to stay up for more than a few minutes so I really need to try reset it and start fresh as i don't know if hardware or not but since it restarts before I can almost do anything I'm stuck. Any ideas on simplest way to reset a homeassistant blue ?
Personally I would try ha supervisor logs -vf and ha host logs -vf to see if there's anything interesting happening before it goes down first.
Let me try. Its rare i have enough time to type it.
Just tried to open it hoping to find way to access the disk to take backup or locate a reset of some. Sort but seeing nothing.
Let me try your log commands...
Does it reboot or does HA become inaccessible? I'd check with a keyboard & monitor unless you already are.
Any way to get the past log ?
Already with keyboard / monitor direct. It reboots before ha gets ready
I was just filming ha log and try to take picture of line with docker error when it rebooted so i missed if anything popped up
That might have to be uploaded somewhere else. Not sure if discord compresses/re-encodes it but it's hard to read.
Here is screenshot og Second try a millisecond before it just restarts. Nothing in log afaics
I'd expect this to look kinda differernt it it was a softeware issue.
Only error if you can call it that i can spot is this invalid argument error around docker.
You could try to re-flash: https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/odroid/
Is anything else plugged into the blue other than the keyboard and monitor?
Yeah. I agree it feels more like a hardware error - but still would be nice if could somehow reset it to rule out anythi g special
Conbee stick and coral TPU - doesn't actually use it atm and network cable. But good point. Let me try pull those.
I can't think of anything that would just instantly halt the system like that without any information being logged but I'm not all that fresh any more at this point.
I was surprised to see that too... the only issue with DIY is it cannot catch VOC as the active carbon isn't as well designed or just inexistant.
Restarted again. Yeah let me flash this...hope it mounts without having power 🙂
Thanks.. I'll go check on diy then 🙂 Still learning where too post stuff.
Ah. You need to flip a switch so it boots up in a me u to.enable USB mode. Only problem is that just prints job control turned off after writing failed to launch petitboot :/
Oh..that's expected. Those docs are tricky.
trying to buy some zigbee dimmer switches for the uk, don't want to spend any more than 30 pounds per switch, preferably less. any good brands/brands to avoid?
Anything tuya is generally to avoid and after that anything non wifi would be to prefer
would you be able to say if this will be of good quality?https://amzn.eu/d/4fhk1gq
The MOES Smart Dimmer Switch for LED is a ZigBee-based smart switch that requires the MOES/Tuya Zigbee Gateway for operation. Its design is inspired by the Star Ring, symbolizing brightness and orientation even in darkness. Featuring an ultra-thin front panel and a modular design, it allows for p...
I don't have any specific knowledge about this module, but besides this being tuya, moes is generally one of the better versions of them
Hi folks, I have a task light that I use for my turntable/audio system. It's a dumb light, powered by USB, but requires a manual button press to turn the light on every time, even when plugged into a simple on/off smart plug (ie once that plug switches the light off, I'm required to turn the plug back on via app or voice command and then need to manually turn the light on)
Are there any options/ways to integrate something like this into HA and keep consistent power?
Here is the light for reference -
https://reliablecorporation.com/products/reliable-uberlight-flex-3100tl-led-task-light
Not without modifying the device
Thanks for the quick and easy reply! That's pretty much what I had assumed
Skyconnect issue
Cannot connect to the Zigbee radio on my Skyconnect tethered to my Raspberry pi4.
Looking for help from the community…
Should be a pretty trivial modification though. Could probably just slap an optocoupler, a relay or a bilateral switch where the button is and run it to an esp32
jump to #zigbee-archived
did anyone tried Trust wifi bulbs with HA? what kind of integration is needed?
we dont really suggest random devices like "trust wifi bulbs"
More like distrust WiFi bulbs amirite
basically
Excellent, thanks - you mean something like a bilateral switch on the physical on/off button on the light itself?
some people think it makes sense to flood their aps with a ton of wifi clients (whether they chat often or not). i am not one of those people
The three components I mentioned all basically act like an electrically controlled switch
You could use it to replace a physical switch with something controlled by a microcontroller
You guys have any recs for ZigBee controllers that would work with smth like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/333674883053
Hey there, so i have a CM67 Honeywell thermostat that controls a boiler outside, and i want to be able to replace it with something that i can integrate into HA, but finding documentation on this guy is a bit hard
and i dont know waht i can even replace it with if anything
Is there any comparison between the HA Green and this guy? I presume it’s night and day but figured someone may have reviewed this previously somewhere?
For those here that have zigbee switches that are 4 wire / neutral have you all ever needed to fully unwire a switch that won’t join HA? I have 4 that I’ve turned breaker off for 5 min and also did the reset device as well and they are still all ignoring my HA joined devices that are literally less than 6 inches away?
Well I was about to snag one but since my HA Green is sitting around 3% cpu and 24% mem I wasn’t sure I’m at a point where I’m noticing slowdown yet. Granted I just started in HA and only have like 75 devices connected so far.
If you’re happy with the green keep it as is I guess
Your lights won’t turn on faster with mini pc
True but hey it’s on sale right now …. Just should have done a bit more research but I r dumb.
fwiw, I'm running a rasppi 4 using an SD card (until it dies lol). I still recommend the minipc.
im running a virtual machine haha
Hi all. I'm getting tired to try to have a iBeacon up and running on my android.
In HA, I can "see" my neigbour coming in/our and moving (iPhone?) but for some reason my android/app don't worrk smoothly.
I'm just looking for a stupid bluetooth device that can be attached on my keys. No switch on/off .... just sending a beacon every few seconds. Like a stupid sputnik a few decades ago. Nothing smart, a beep over bluetooth every 2, 5 10 , even 60 seconds ....
I'm looking for a piece of hardware that ... just works 😉 .....
oh i didn't even see this was tuya haha
We've recently switched to smart shutters (which I've integrated to HA with the Tuya Integration) - and if possible I'd like to have the original wall switch continue to work (the images shows two controllers, one with the cover removed). Each pair can be "off off", "on off" or "off on".
Ideally I want to replace it with something using Zigbee.
In my searching I've found the SONOFF MINIR4 --- iff that provides the state of each switch independently then I may be able to make it work. It would also need to work even when there's no "load".
Or is there a better option?
Thanks!
heya, i'm curious if anyone else bought the switch-bot universal remote before firmware 2.7 where the remote seemingly suddenly requires a switchbot hub. the page on the wayback machine when i bought it doesn't seem to list that a hub is required. did this happen to anyone else?
would it be possible to use HA on a raspberry pi zero 2 w? with an nvme?
Hi, thanks for your response. Is it particularly hard to run HAOS in a VM on the machine? If cash were not an issue would you instead recommend purchasing the HA Yellow and running my n100 machine for other dockerised applications, given that Yellow has all the hardware bits and bobs already? I presume it'd be easier to manage if it's a separate physical machine.
oh shit, you're a life saver, thanks man!!
so is it just a value from 0-100?
cause I know the receiver uses db instead of volume level or percentage
I think it's 0-1 I think. .1 is 10% that sort of thing. I only did a very quick test of this to see if it could be controlled, not much beyond that.
I think I might've found my E14 candle bulb solution cheaply. I would still have liked to go with Lifx, but that seems not possible for now.
Tesco stores near me have a two pack of Philips WiZ bulbs. HA suggests these bulbs work locally and have local enabled by default. Anyone have opinions?
Two bulbs is £25
@slim lagoon loves Wiz bulbs
Seeing the Matter logo on it also fills me with confidence
They’re kinda matter-ish. But you lose a lot of features. Otherwise, fantastic bulbs.
What’s a “bunch?” 😉
What features do you lose? There's surely not that much to a lightbulb
20+ lights
21 lights, just checked
i think you lose any of the animation style stuff
you do have color/on/off
you lose wifi presence detection if you care
I have pre-matter capable and matter-capable color and white-ambience style. All recessed 5/6 sized units. You need the wiz app to enable matter on the bulbs. I found it easier just to define them in the app, give them ip addresses (static ones from a DHCP server), and then do everything from HA. No extra benefit from using matter as far as I could tell. You already have HA doing your translation.
somewhere in history, or maybe even a sticky are my ubiquiti settings that got rid of latency in triggering for me
Eugh
they've been solid for the year that i've had them installed
I was really hoping for a bulb I could screw in and add to HA
No stupid apps
No cloud
there is no cloud
Just PnP
but they need an IP address
they need a wifi SSID/pw
if you've got a way that works, great
(or buy zigbee, I've got hue for that also, but hue recessed lights were 40-50 USD/each vs 8-10 for the wiz)
i haven't used the app since I set them up
i have an IOT SSID (see the linked reference)
Yea the price difference is the decider really
there is no cloud once you set them up
Do you have your IOT SSID VLANned off and unable to access the internet?
You must have cloud for initial setup? Or would they work if you just had a bulb and the app in the middle of nowhere?
i have an IOT SSID, i didn't bother putting them on a different /24, or a different vlan. Should setup fine with no internet access with the app (it uses bluetooth to do initial setup)
I also wanted them to connect to the internet initially to grab up to date firmware
So, I have 50 of them on a completely firewalled IOT VLAN. No problems with them at all and I’ve had mine ~2 years now.
there you go, confirmation
The only time I open them up is a monthly firmware check/download.
not sure the metaphor makes the same point with lightbulbs are containers, but if it works for you 🙂
Some people would treat them like pets, work in each one etc
I feel the no sympathy shove them in a cage approach is more appropriate for these tiny computers
it's a light bulb, that has about 3 user definable options, hard for that to be a Tamagotchi 🙂
They're more powerful under the hood than you might imagine
wiz works well via local api and Matter for me. But heard some from #matter-archived countered issues about Matter for esp based devices
hey folks, has anyone had any experience with any 'ZigBee ZB-GW04 USB Dongle HUB' devices?
Does anyone know if i could replace a CM67 Honeywell with something like tuya's thermostat ?
it controls a boiler heating system
Interesting, they're ESP based? Sounds ripe for hax
hey folks, do you know if there is currently any support or ongoing development to enable provisioning Tapo plugs (e.g., P100) via Bluetooth? that is without using the TP Link mobile application.
are the xiaomi sensors any good?
https://amzn.eu/d/3q35yHF - thinking of getting this. is it just ewaste or worth it?
what concerns me is that i can't find this on xiaomi's website as if they're not "proud" of it?
it's also no longer available on aliexpress
The Zigbee ones are good
god i love amazon. i found an aquari one with amazing reviews that's a motion sensor too. just ordered, it's arriving literally today
I might be wrong, but that might be the same as aqara T1 light sensor.
i got the P1 motion sensor with light sensor
I was looking at the P1 too, but in the end decided to get fp2
More pricey, but I think it's more consistent.
i had a 15 quid voucher and amazon offered a 10% discount. got it for 7 quid
That’s a really good deal.
Hey all, I'd like to get a ZigBee device that I can use to turn my bedroom light switch on and off with. I see so many options on Amazon . Something like this would be ideal. But it's WiFi not ZigBee.
I'm UK based. Anyone have any recommendations other than replacing the switch with a smart one specifically
Should the zigbee switch on left be able to join from the one on the right? It is in router mode.
Yes
Spend time now redoing your switches and pre bending wires
@split kiln Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.
If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.
SONOFF ZBMINI with zig2mqtt or SONOFF MINIR2 with tasmota firmware?
Depends
on?
yes have
Then Zigbee FTW
tasmota dosent bring good things to the table?
BTW very agree on zigbee FTW
but stability prob better with zigbee?
also speed metters to me
Speed of what?
And do you have the ability to measure/observe the difference between 0.00001s and 0.0001s?
hahaha no
yep I have a full size server
(old pc)
i don't know why ppl still recommend run on Pi
Cheap (ish) and cheap (ish) to run
yeah for 5 mins and then you have to move to a stronger device, I see Pi today more as a 14 days trial for Hass 😂
but dude thanks for your help btw ❤️
Any hardware to monitor electricity issues? Like voltage drop or gap in electricty for 1 sec. I am trying to find something which will allowe me provide proves to company which deliver electiricyty, otherwise they will never fix it.
Theoretically yes
Practically it's much more difficult as measurement intervals aren't that accurate
I observe UPS turning on and devices like router restart. It is always turn off and on power immediatally. Like 1 sec.
or less
any device which will help me notice power breaks and at least store precize time of the issue + some info about reason?
Ah yes, a poorly scaled image truly inspires confidence in your product Google
I have noticed that inside my cm67 has 3 wires is that normal
No clue lol
Is ai hat for raspberry pi 5 supported?
Supported for what
Does anyone have any UK Smart plugs (for tracking energy usage) recommendations? The Tapo look good value for money but didn't know if there was a good choice for home assistant
wifi or zigbee
Uhh I'd prefer zigbee if that exists
Aquara and innr makes decent ones I heard
Oh I've heard of innr before
thank you for the recommendations! 🙂
Oh wow the Zigbee ones are so much more expensive, that's surprising!
It strongly depends
Sonoff maybe?
Usually all the stuff that is cheap is tuya based and low quality
Sonoff is a pretty mixed bag
I take it you people dont order their stuff on aliexpress 😆
No we don't all enjoy our smart devices to burn down our living spaces ^^
Generally anything with a relay in it switching line voltage has this risk
There are some things to watch out for on those, but that's usually where designs tend to save a buck more than would be good
As long as you stay well below the rated switching capacity it probably will be fine
The current ratings are more often than not for peak currents and not sustained loads
Fair enough. I mean a power outlet being 16A is pretty standard though?
It depends on what exactly they put in
There are 10A versions which only do 16A as peak which may or may not be regional common in places
For normal non smart sockets that is
Wow lol never saw one of those. 16A or 20A what u find here usually. But yea makes sense
And that wifi switch I linked will switch some led lamps… nothing crazy
So hopefully no fire
That only will hurt if you chew on it
I dont get it 😂
But yea I was planning to put the laundry machine, dishwasher etc on a smart plugs… may be wise not to use an aliexpress one
Seems alright? Price too
I picked them up. Off to a great start, can't get them connected to WiFi
yea if i recall those are recommended ones
Cheers!
Is the innr hub as a zigbee receiver any decent?
I was thinking sonoff zigbee receiver
it probably will do but we generally recommend not using a specific hub and going with dedicated gateways instead
there is a ha branded one even but generally stuff with the same chipset will do just fine. #zigbee-archived even has some network attached ones to recommend instead of usb if thats more your style
the sonoff sticks are ok ish
Hmm nice, will have to take a look. Thanks!
keep in mind they have four models, some of which work better with zha and some work better with z2m
What's the problem? They just won't connect? Are you connecting to a 2.4ghz network?
I had to do the whole on off on off on off until they go purple thing and then connect directly to their broadcast SSID
then it said something about registering them to the cloud
They're on now, just working out how to get them into HA
Slzb-06 seems recommended
There's an official Wiz integration.
Is that local though?
Yeah, it connects to the local IP of the bulb.
Hmm okay nice
They should auto discover, but if they don't, you can get the IP from either the Wiz app or your router.
Nice. Then you're set.
They have unknown wattage meters on them but seem to work, thanks!
Yeah, honestly I don't know why that's in the integration at all. All 50 of mine are unknown. lol
I suppose if the manufacturer cares enough they can add a power meter to the bulb
It's kinda there already, but the API doesn't expose it properly.
Now I just gotta learn how to set HA up!
Ah okay
Interesting that HA and the WiZ app seem to be happy with each other
no sync issue
Nope. The Wiz app does get a bit wonky if you block the bulbs from their encrypted, MQTT connection. But honestly, I only use the app to setup bulbs. That's it.
Yea I don't care for it, just surprised it just worked
I take it said MQTT is the cloud bit?
Yup. Fortunately it's encrypted at least.
Ehh. I question that really. I very much doubt the bulbs actually have a root certificate stored on them to verify that connection
They do. It surprised me, but I've never questioned Philips when it comes to security. They're WAY better than a lot of other companies.
Hm, fair enough!
Are these locked down enough that nobody has custom firmware for them yet?
Unfortunately, yeah.
Noob here just getting started. I got HA set up on a RPi 4 booting from a SanDisk portable SSD. It's working fine now, will I run into issues down the line?
You're probably fine for a while pariscope. You may want to upgrade if you get into cameras, but using an SSD is the right way to use a Pi.
Can confirm. I used an SD card for a while and it crashed every few days. Then used ssd and all was fixed. I’ve since put it on an old laptop though. I notice much improved performance of HA. Quicker dashboard, and overall feeling.
Would it work to put this between an expansion cord, and use it to make an entire strip of devices “smart”?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHdooLr
I could use it near my desk for example. Monitor, desk lamps etc all in the expansion cord.
maybe. They do make smart power strips
I read a guy on reddit did this 😆
Cut the expansion power strip cord, strip wire, connect to box. Connect other end to box. Plug in regular socket 👀
With independent control of 6 devices and extra USB ports to charge 3 others, the kasa smart Wi-Fi power strip is ideal for your family rooms, home office or small business, power up your office remotely and even your holiday lights. Remotely control each outlet with the kasa smart app or use voi...
Uses wifi, but should be local polling in HA.
Okay got it. I may want more dedicated hardware in the future for expansion purposes, but good for now to explore a bit. Sweet.
Shelly sell an inline enclosure for doing exactly that with their WiFi relays: https://www.shelly.com/en-us/products/shop/shelly-button
So it's not unheard of, and as long as you're even vaguely competent it shouldn't be disastrous.
Probably better to just buy a power strip with the feature built in though
Any suggestions for an OBD2 sensor I can integrate with Home Assistant?
I have lamps that are dimmable (TRIAC), what would be the best way to control the dim within a Zigbee network ?
Are there any truly local-only human presence sensors?
All the ones I see on Amazon require some kind of cloud connection.
https://wiki.apolloautomation.com/books/msr-2/chapter/msr-2-reviews these reviews are pretty good for our msr-2
Thanks, will take a look.
Hi, I hoe this is the right place to ask.
Basically, I'm running Homekit but I live in a house with Android users so I also need to consider Google Home compatibility for what I get.
Anyway, I have 4 radiators in the house and I want to replace the existing thermostats with Smart Thermostats and then replace the Combi Boiler's thermostat with a smart thermostat too.
I was looking at the Meross Radiator Thermostats and they look really good with the Homekit stuff, so I might go with those unless anyone has any reason not to.
Where I'm really stuck though is the Boiler thermostat.
At the moment, my non-smart thermostat is battery powered and just uses the 2 wires coming off the boiler to control it. Are any smart home systems that have a Battery powered boiler reciever or am I basically tied to needing to install the reciever with 240V
Any help is really appreciated, thank you
@mortal stump Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Hi does anyona have issue with IKEA Tradfri motion sensor integrated with ZHA. It always reports motion status clear.
hi there, I want to use an atom echo with homeassistant on rpi4, but only as a TTS speaker. Is there a way to set this up? I cannot find the device in media players when I want to call the TTS service
You need it set up as a media_player
#diy-archived or the ESPHome Discord can help you there
ESPHome is a system to control your ESP8266/ESP32, with a native integration for Home Assistant.
You can find their documentation here, and get help with ESPHome itself here in the #diy-archived channel (#integrations-archived for the Home Assistant side integration with it). They also have their own Discord server too.
Hello, does anyone here have an APC Switched Rack PDU?
Do you have a reliable way to monitor and control it through HA?
That's a topic for #integrations-archived
Gotcha, my bad
any person ould give me some idea of innr power plug SP242-2? I am using z2m and all working well, but I want to get more frequuant interval, now I am just have to click refrsh on a dash board to in z2m to send the data to HA dashboard
Thanks!1
Hello all, just set up my first Green yesterday. Trying to keep up.
It found two devices linked to my Bravia TV: a DLNA Digital Media Renderer, and a Sony Bravia TV. I want to rename them, but I don't know where to do that.
integrations page from settings
I remember you from some other server, but I forget what server I use to be in, I probably left it. Do you have your 3D printers integrated?
lmao
I don’t automate on my printers I just have them on a dashboard showing cameras and print time etc
But my dashboards are broken cuz I removed the wled instances per printer
oof
Looks like a bit of a cluster, but I'm use to the bambu integration someone made that I'm trying to figure out how to do some custom stuff for. Most of the the information in those panels could be in the camera view, but that'd probably be something more custom since those printers don't originally come with cameras
eh
follow this
A Home Assistant Integration for Bambu Lab Printers - greghesp/ha-bambulab
those nerds have it all figured out already
I wonder how well these new local LLM models are going to run on various hardware. I'm running HA on a Intel n95.
- I'm in the UK
- Budget is as low as possble but will pay more if there's a genuine reason
- Prefer Wifi because I don't have Zibgee or Z-wave hardware
I want to connect a door sensor to an alarm, and have the alarm beep when the door has been open for longer than X seconds (say 3-4). My understanding is the aqara sensor is pretty good (https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-MCCGQ11LM-Window-Sensor-White/dp/B07D37VDM3). It says you need an aqara hub but from what I can gather researching around, it should just work with any "zigbee hub"? 🤔
It sounds like this software is used to make a standard PC be a zigbee hub? I'm guessing to do that I need some kind of USB antenna right?
Then I just need some kind of beeper/speaker that is also zigbee compatible? 🤔
Well, not any hub but a #zigbee-archived coordinator
The standard suggestion over there is one from Tube or SMLight
And if you're using HA then any supported media player works - Google Home, Sonos, etc
Zero need for a Zigbee beeper unless you really want it
Hmm okay so I still need a "coordinator" which is an external device separate from what this software is doing? 🤔
I'm pretty new to these protocols so kinda stabbing in the dark
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations#media-player for the built in media player options
There are three Zigbee options with Home Assistant (regardless of how you install it). These are:
zha is actively developed as part of Home Assistant Core, using the zigpy stack, the UI also being part of Home Assistant. The EmberZNet based sticks are recommended (though the HUSBZB-1 uses an older chipset), but there are other options including the CC2652 based sticks. There is no list of supported devices, as any standards compliant device should work. Devices that require extra support are listed, and adding unsupported devices is documented.
Zigbee2MQTT is very actively developed and can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, and natively. As of 1.15 has a native UI, and it also uses MQTT for control and configuration. It supports mostly TI based sticks, with the recommended option being the [CC2652 based sticks](#zigbee-archived message). If you want to use an EmberZNet stick see this issue. The known working devices are well documented (which usually includes how to pair them so you don't have to find the manual), and as of 1.35.0 now has opportunistic support similar to ZHA. This change has simplified adding support for new devices.
deCONZ is relatively stable and mature with its own UI (and Discord server). It can run in an add-on, in a Docker container, or natively. Only the ConBee range of sticks and RaspBee GPIO boards are supported. Known working devices are documented, and how to request support for a new device is documented too (you can't add unsupported devices yourself).
🤔
You really want to read the pins over in #zigbee-archived for more useful info
I've been looking at them and it's a bit like a 101 class when what I need is a how-to
I don't learn very well from massive infodumps
Ok, so ...
Are there some more step by step type things?
pick ZHA
That I can learn from and then tweak
And head over to #zigbee-archived 😉
Does anyone feel like giving a feasibility opinion on using a Shelly 1 Mini in a ceiling fan, wired to the direction-reversal switch? It doesn't bring wires out to the mount point for, so I'd have to add those myself...
You'd need a relay that exposes both the NO and NC contacts for that, no?
Shelly mini only has the NO.
Ok, didn't realize that. Looking at the diagrams now.
Hmm, I'm not actually sure. It's just a slide switch on this ceiling fan, and most of them that I remember. I assumed that open is one direction, and closed is the opposite direction... and I'm having a little trouble reconciling how that must work with a brushless motor.
It's possible, but my assumption would be you're looking at something like this:
Ok... so if both were left open (not possible with the physical switch), does it just not spin, or explode in flames?
I can't find a Shelly that has no and nc both. But if I got a 2 relay, could I manage that in software, so that one was always closed?
electronics.stackexchange is saying this is just a reversal of voltage onto the motor itself, but that it's accomplished by a pair of FETs. One has to be turned off before turning the other on, or you really can short things out...
So, your picture of the physical switch above probably is what it has.
I wonder what voltage is going through it
I installed the ceiling fans last year, wonder if I can dig up a user manual... or if those details are even in it.
Shelly make this, which appears to use two small solid-state switches: https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-plus-uni-1#node-27kvi4hed64vf
If your voltage is low enough, perhaps could be made to work
Ok, manual doesn't have details. No shock there. Just Ikea picture instructions.
So not brushless? Quite as hell, I always thought you get whining noises with anything else.
This is a common kind of motor in ceiling fans: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaded-pole_motor
The shaded-pole motor is the original type of AC single-phase motor, dating back to at least as early as 1890. A shaded-pole motor is a motor, in which the auxiliary winding is composed of a copper ring or bar surrounding a portion of each pole to produce a weakly rotating magnetic field. When single phase AC supply is applied to the stator wi...
Ok. I'll need to disassemble and look at the switch itself, I guess.
Whatever the exact devices are, this is pretty dumb on my part... I'll be stuffing three of them into it to get all the functionality I want.
There must be a reason that no one makes an all-in-one device, and it's probably heat-dissipation.
Remotes for ceiling fans are commonly available, just not wifi/zigbee/bt
The Sonoff's not bad, but fan is limited to 3 speeds, nothing for direction reversal, and the light can't be dimmed.
I've found a Tuya device that claims to do 0-100% fan speed (in 10% increments, I think, not sure really), and was going to use a Shelly Dimmer.
I've been looking at ceiling fans, because our house has high ceilings and it should help with heating.
Pretty much resigned to the fact I'm just going to pay the money for a Big Ass Fan, which has a native local integration.
The two together still aren't as large as a Sonoff, or the RF module that came with it.
I think I really can squeeze in a Shelly relay module of some sort, if I can figure out which. Shame I can't make the LED light rbg... heh.
Id consider buying a Chinese remote fan controller, opening it up and seeing if I could throw an esp32 board in there... A few strategically cut traces, and hopefully some luck that everything runs on 3v3, and you could have a solution
Most of the rf fan switches seem to come from the same place anyway
I haven't checked in a few months, but last time I looked at those, there was an Australian one that did both variable fan speed and light dimming. No idea the radio on it, but not wifi/ble/whatever for sure. And I've never seen anything that does fan direction at all. Most ceiling fans don't seem to wire that up in a way you could connect even an oem module to it.
But I mean, if anyone has a link I'd like to take a look. I might be getting worse at searching for stuff.
That's true, fan direction is usually a switch
Search engines are getting worse at giving results that you want vs results they want you to see
If you think it's a search issue, try Yandex
They are either more honest, or less advanced in changing the search results
So, the fan controller has a CB2S module in it, not the ESP8266. I think I'm going to try to install OpenBeken or whatever it's called, and test it out somehow without putting it in the ceiling. If that's suitable, I'll just leave it as is. Supposedly you can flash it wirelessly.
But, if not, I'm just going to replace the whole module. $15 bucks gets me like qty10. Pain in the ass to solder though.
Then, I'm going to pull the ceiling fan out of the room we don't use temporarily, tear it down, see what I need for the direction switch.
Make all the wiring harnesses for that at once, make sure they all fit, and have them ready for the other fans.
Hi all if anyone want to build home assistant with e-ink, I started a hobby project couple weeks ago and made a very compact pcb for pi compute module with audio/camera and power management (might be over kill for just lights?) let me know if anyone is interested
I packed it into a handheld device but alot of my beta testers trying to make it into a desktop dock or wall mount
any feedback appreciated!
Hello anyone use desk rgb light with ha ?
What "desk rgb" are you referring to?
This tuya is cheaper
Most are tuya
I don't like tuya
Looking for zigbee options but that can get expensive
No one likes Tuya around here (as it should be).
Yeah, the problem with music/sound activated Zigbee lights is that they can cause a lot of traffic on the mesh.
But, from what I've heard, the Govee light bars are good, but not Zigbee.
Yes i am here again to look for hardware upgrade lol.
Long term ha user and nabu casa
lol I remember 🙂
I don't need music for light
You just want Zigbee light bars for your desk?
Just on off and rgb
I found one
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
BHD15.67 | Smart Gaming Light RGB LED Symphony Control USB Ambient With App Control Coloful Strip Desktop Lamp Dimming Gamer Decor Zigbee
https://a.aliexpress.com/_ooAliAj
Now need to understand if this will work with my sonoff zigbee 3.0
Technical just needed an led for desk just for fancy look
Then found that most are smart led
So anytime i see "smart" i think it's ha integration 😜
They most likely will work, yeah... BUT, those are Tuya as well.
Eww i didn't see tuya in title 😦
Tuya zigbee is dirty too
I can't seem to find the tuya word in this listing
It's not in the title... BUT, given the price and the "features", I'll guarantee you they are Tuya devices.
Maybe
And as tuya zigbee might be forced to only pair with tuya hub ? Is that correct assumption?
Yeah, it's impossible to know for sure, but there are give-aways.
Nah... they just rarely follow the Zigbee spec.
You think i should take the risk for the team ? 🤣
For $11? I mean... if they suck, you're out $11.
However, with that said... I have an Aqara T1 light strip under my desk that works great. But, it's usually ~$50 on Amazon.
On my island AE is the online shopping app I can afford lol
Yeah, I hear that a lot.
Let me check . I cant get aqara here
Ugh, that SUCKS.
lol don't ask me how many Aqara devices I have then 😉
Bought 4.
All died in 4 months.
Raise girhub issue to get aqara attention 🤣
So, the other thing you could do is go the DIY route and build your own light strips
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804496618072.html
These are great controllers.
Huh, I don't have any of their plugs, but I have sensors galore, curtain motors, switches, etc.
I will only do diy once I get a 3d printer cause else it looks all naked to me
Diy rumble pedals waiting for its clothes 😜
Yup. Fair... But, you could do something like aluminum channels with diffusers attached to the wall.
hahaha that's art right there. 😉
Yes but need the right tools to make it look good.
How's your experience with T1 ? I am liking it
True... just something to keep in mind.
I LOVE my T1s. I have 5 of them right now in various places. Bright, very responsive, and they are routing devices as well.
T1 i can get 2pcs for $21 and they're small but makes it better to place in 2 spots
Since how long is my question lol
Is it rgb ? I cant see that on listing
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
BHD7.35 | Original Aqara LED Induction Night Light Magetic Design 2 Level Brightness Human Body Sensor for Bedroom Bedside Closet
https://a.aliexpress.com/_oDK6UMn
Ummmm, about a year is my oldest one.
No, and those aren't smart either. They just have a motion sensor built in.
Ok that's a no go. Sorry. It is 2 Aa battery
This is what I have: https://a.co/d/3hgsKPG (not sure you can get it or not 😦 )
Oh t1 strip interesting
Yup.
Nice that is going to be my backup option
Checking here
Blakadder always
https://a.aliexpress.com/_oDI8wi3
Found exactly what I wanted and cheap yeayyy
Oh hell! I forgot all about Gledopto. Good brand.
I love Blakadder for his work
Same.
thanks 😉
I don't see him post much lately
I miss you on x 😘
I have a couple of outdoor Gledopto Zigbee lights that have been running for 6(?) years now?
That sounds so dirty that's why i still call it Twitter
it did sound quite filthy
Exactly
Order completed 😍
https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Avacom_TS0505B.html
Will it work with z2mqtt ?
Cause I am confused with the last line
It should... but, how reliable it is is anyone's guess.
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
Does anyone know of a reasonably priced wifi relay that takes mains 240 as an input but does not feed 240 down the line? I have a device that can be toggled with a temporary switch on a DC line and would like to be able to toggle that via wifi too
Would be nice for it to be on the same form factor as those sonoff ones so I can maintain a tidy install and don't need additional power warts
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
My bad, I'm located in EU, budget is not really an issue, but if i can save some money from buying at aliexpress I'll hapily take it as this is more of a "nice to have" than a paramount need at this point. I'd rather it work over wifi. I've been looking around and i think dry contact ones are what they are calling them
All I can think of is Sonoff. The Sonoff SV (Safe voltage) can be converted into a dry contact relay. I used them only as 5, 12 and 24v but I remember they accept also AC 240. If you convert it into a dry-contact you may succeed. But never tried
On another topic: I'm looking for a Zigbee air quality sensor without display/led. CO2 would be nice, but I'm happy with tvoc, pm2.5 [...]. I'm in the EU. Budget < 30 Eur. Anything?
Thanks. That sonoff is high on the list of hits ive found that look more reputable. Since to begin with I can be happy with simple tuya app stuff ive also found inexpensive 1gang dry relays that would work, after I verify the line voltage for the sense circuit i'll go either route. Thank you so much!
Slightly older news, but new 4th Gen Nest Smart Learning Thermostat announced with matter-support.
https://www.tomsguide.com/home/smart-home/nest-learning-thermostat-4th-gen-review
I'm a SmartThings (ST) user who is ditching it in favor of HA. Currently, most of what I have automated is simply lights (zigbee). I'm moving over right before I go away on a solo vacation (Burning Man) for a bit so I want to make sure I leave things very "wife friendly".
We currently use Alexa voice and ST (through our 5 Ecobee4 thermostats) as how we control lights. I have many of them automated, but others we turn on/off by voice command. How reliable is Alexa integration w/ HA? The reason I ask here, in "hardware", is I'm tempted to just buy a few zigbee buttons to act as light switches in case I don't get voice working before I leave. Once again - aiming for wife friendly. 🙂
If I want to add a few buttons, and here is the 'hardware' question, what are recommended buttons to add real quick?
That depends on where you are in the world.
Anybody in here know of a good 20amp smart plug?
Phoenix AZ USA
No shit?! lol I lived in Phoenix myself.
If I recall that would be some more industrial gear
Anyhow, Aqara is my brand of choice, but they only have a single button. If you want something with more buttons, the Hue dimmers are really good. Ikea remotes are also a decent choice.
There is an aeotec one good for up to 40 amps, but... that is a bit of overkill for my application
thanks - that helps.
The usual stuff you can buy is only real rated for 10A, even less if you intend to switch it
I suppose choice is limited on that end
One thing to note is that I'm not sure the Aqara buttons work with SmartThings. I think they do, but I'm not certain. I do think that the Ikea and Hue ones both work with SmartThings though.
the ones I've gotten are all 15amp (standard outlet in US)
I probably would go with the 40A one and hopefully won't have to think about the contacts welding together
Zooz has a 16amp one that's ZWave. Not sure if that helps or not.
maybe this: SONOFF POWR3
thanks for the heads-up. SmartThings, as a zigbee controller, has let me down too many times and now Samsung is not actively supporting the dev community around it. I'm not going to look back.... I just need to be sensitive during transtion. 🙂
The issue is with the 'up to' rating
That usually indicates short burst loads
Not sustained usage
for a little context, this is to turn on/off a 27gal 15amp/120v air compressor. When it kicks on, it surges a bit (motor).
Yup. Same... well, almost 10 years ago 😉 I actually ditched ST when I moved out of Phoenix. lol It's not a bad process, but a lot of work.
the air compressor runs fine on a 15 amp outlet, but sometimes trips it when it turns on.
Can't you diy the switch into it's control instead
Having such smart stuff on large motors isn't great for them in general
If you want to switch large loads, you can always use any low rated smart plug combined with a large ~40A contactor
I'm upgrading it to a 20amp circuit, and want to control it from the other room (garage)
That sounds like a lot of diy
it is yes
I am curious, send over the madness
example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYSFRSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I guess you want a 120V version if you've got 120v circuit
they are pretty loud though 😂
Oh lol yes haha
I presume their Amazon page that says "Aqara hub is required" is for the masses? ie: this is a zigbee devcie that can just connect to a Zigbee connector (like the smlink SLZB-06) right? 🙂
Yup. You can ignore that 🙂
anyone using the thirdreality zigbee nightlights? Any complaints?
I have an isomatic 500 garage door opener. I want something that either runs over mqtt or zigbee to control it. Does anyone know of a device?
i'd call it a motion sensor with a nightlight built in lol
i was looking to see if they would be a decent option for a lithophane nightlight replacement
but doesnt look like it
hard to beat the lithophane nightlights
i think hiding an msr-2 behind one would be cool too
pretty cool idea!
btw i think it was allergies the cat isnt itching anymore
fwiw i think that PIR placement where a nightlight would be to be pretty bad... at least for a normal room. for a bathroom where an outlet is up high it might be a decent option
if the light was always on when motion was detected and not configurable that would bug me too
I'd assume they'd be different entities? Maybe that's naive. Re: the outlet, yes DEFINITELY would need to be higher up (like above a vanity as mentioned)
the latest update seems to have broken one of my devices 😦 I have a TS1201 IR blaster, and was using a custom quirk for it (https://github.com/ferehcarb/zha-device-handlers/blob/3f859d693523db36f0e5bf8b0248ea15ba78e4db/zhaquirks/tuya/ts1201.py) which was working great. now though the cluster i was referencing (Zosung IR Control Cluster/0xE004) is just showing blank. can anyone point me in the right direction on how to fix it please?
@native pilot I have the matter version. they are different entities.
Oh great! Thanks for confirming that John. Any complaints about the device itself?
Motion detection seems a little slow compared to other deivces I've used. Seems to take a couple of seconds
Understood, thank you!
the quirk is not showing on the device...
got it, issue importing the quirk...damn
fixed, new quirk in the github comments: https://github.com/zigpy/zha-device-handlers/pull/2336#issuecomment-2275176862
thanks for being my rubber ducks 🙂

Which LED strip controller choose? First time when use them. Can "multiple color" controller be used for 1 color strip? I know nothing about this controller. What schould I consider when buying?
What number of channels mean?
How to know if contoller will be compatible with LED strip? Is it compatible with all of them?
Definitely not.
oh... how to know that?
or this mean I should choose the same brand for LED stripe and Smart Home LED controller ?
*have to
not sure if I understand, but I don't want to do soldering etc. I want to buy ready product.
if you buy 24v you can get away with one long run
but basically he's suggesting you buy your own led controller + led strip + power supply and connect them. There's varying levels of difficulty based on controller and led strip chosen
and you can DEFINITELY do what I suggested without soldering.
How to match them to be compatible ?
read the tech specs lol
most of us will suggest a controller from quindor
or maybe a cheaper athom or gledopto one if you want zigbee
did you read this? #hardware-archived message
Ech I was hoping to just buy something and use just like that. I will have to do research then
you can
we just dont like them 🙂
because diy is better in every way
I did, but with my today LED knowledge I don’t know what it is about. Just a lot of docs which mean nothing for me 🙂
Can you give an example?
Are they really better or is it about satisfaction?
Do you mean you can’t achieve that by just buying ready items?
Oh not what I expected
off the shelf have limited amount of length and power they can use
because led strip only has so much copper in it
so you "inject" power by adding 5v/12v/24v and ground multiple places depending on the strips
also the strips inside many premade led strips like hue, govee, or worse chyna junk are usually much poorer quality
so even less copper in them
so voltage drop is even worse after 1meter, 2meter, etc
also the premade strips come with limited functionality of the led controller itself
also the premade strips cannot get as bright due to said voltage drop issues
there's lots of "gotchas" with premade
I see. So it is about size 😉
instead it's best to learn a bit and make what you need for cheaper and better
this guy didnt even solder he just used these things
if you do skip soldering, only buy these with actual wire not the really thin aluminum junk
Well, I assumed LED strip is something easy like bulb. I was wrong.
it is
once you learn it
you can buy a 5meter led strip and an led controller and a power supply and plug it in and stick it somewhere and be done
but which controller + which led strip + which power supply is something you research
like is it for under a bed? behind a tv? behind a tv but for hyperion/hyperHDR? in kitchen? going down stairs? going outside?
what colors are needed? rgb? rgbw? rgbw-cct (color temp control)? cct(white with color temp control only)?
Bathroom under the mirror
Can be integrated with Tuya
Portugal
ah that changes things