#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 67 of 1
Ok this would work for that
I’m thinking of installing 3 LED strips (RGB+W COB) on my bedroom, which LED controller do u suggest to use?
since there are 3 wall switches, I need to have the possibility to turn on/off (maybe even dim) each strip from each switch, is that possible without cutting the electricity completely?
I bought the sensor from Aqara which was recommended, but how do I connect it to my Philips bridge?
I recently got a Beelink S12 Mini PC to start my HomeAssistant journey. In general, I'd like to run it as more of a server than needing a monitor.
Would the recommended appraoch to doing that be to do initial setup via a monitor, then just remote desktop into from my other PCs?
Yup, install an OS on it (Linux preferred) and then install proxmox on it and add HAOS as a VM.
That's pretty much what I was thinking. I think the Beelinks come with Windows 11 out of the box and I was thinking of just using that for simplicity (and can also use Windows Remote Desktop to get into it for GUI tasks), but any other big reasons to go with Linux?
After that the plan was to use Proxmox with HAOS, allowing me to virtualize anything else I want running on the box
My Zooz switches have been very reliable, but IMHO, that's because Z-Wave is much better than Zigbee.
Get a ZEN32 or three, as well. They're great for bathroom exhaust fans when using the fan controller blueprint and I giggle every time my Aqara Humidity Sensor tells HA "it's too humid in here, dude" and the fan comes on.
Is it possible for HA to act as a Thread border router with a remote thread usb stick? My HA runs in a hyper-v vm, which I can't attach a usb stick to. For zigbee zigbee2mqtt works great, but I'd love a similar thread solution
or would/could I just run the Open Thread Border Router software on the remote device, and manage it from HA.
Ooo thanks for the heads up. I was curious, how is the response time for z-wave, I hear wifi switches like Kasa can be potentially slow.
there's no reason to buy any tp link device and wifi switches generally should be avoided
Meh. I'm using an HS300 power strip as a cheap PDU for energy tracking and remote reboot capability for my servers, and it works great
and there are zigbee and zwave hardware versions made by not a chinese company that also work great
Why should I care if it's made by a Chinese company? It's all local communication
loves having this convo over and over
chinese QA has a lot to be desired
lots of stuff is "made in china" but not designed and owned by a chinese company as well - big difference
and you missed the ultimate point which is there are better versions of hardware using better suited protocols than a wifi switch
Ooo thanks for the heads up. I was
Anyone have any good suggestions for an e-ink display to mount on a wall for a home assistant dashboard?
Wifi isn't necessarily a bad thing.
airtime fairness is a commodity
and some mesh systems dont love a ton of clients on them even if they arent talking much
use 2.4ghz for shit that you cant find better protocols for or where you want that extra bandwidth
mmwave sensor for example (talking often)
zigbee/zwave mains devices also act as repeaters for other devices on your mesh to route packets through - mine isnt so meshy cuz my controller is centrally located
so by using wifi switches you lose that added benefit as well, plus ultimately you can controll the mesh better with something like zwave and send a multicast to multiple things as once instead of a unicast per and blah blah
apples and oranges really
Hello Community. I know its not really HA related question, but I think you are the one who can help me.
I have a very small rack with a few things inside. Switch, Raspberry Pi 4B for HA, Synology NAS, Router.
If have a small UPS what can run the whole rack for about 50 minute. Since a few weeks, if there is a power outage and the UPS start beeping telling its working, I realize my raspberry Pi or HA is going down. I had 5 power outage in this week. 5 times raspberry pi went down, but everything else is running perfectly. Any idea? My Synology uptime is 5 month.
I'm well aware. I have many zigbee devices. It doesn't mean that Wifi can't be a valid solution for certain use cases. Unless you live in a hyper-densely polluted rf environment, it shouldn't be that big of a deal. Besides, the only things that I have on 2.4Ghz are other smart home things anyways.
I started with mostly Wi-Fi devices and I regret it I've been slowly going to zigbee
Are the rpis actually plugged into protected outlets? Most UPSs have only a couple outlets that are actually protected, and a bunch of other ones that just act as surge protectors
This UPS has one outlet. The Rack's PSU is connected to that.
and of course everything into the PSU.
PDU, you mean, presumably?
It was working for a year. this issue started 3 weeks ago.
Sorry. PDU of course.
did you change anything? Many UPS softwares are made to gracefully shutdown protected devices when an outage is detected.
The only change I did in the last 3 week, I disconnected an unused old home made server (PC). what is turned off since a while.
its a really stupid UPS, no softwares or anything as I know.
never changed anything.
it sounds like your ups might not be pure sign wave and isnt cleanly switching over power
What I realized only, the battery is going down. firstly it was 50 minute what was able to do. now only a few minutes with fewer devices.
and the syno has some capacitor or something that can handle the tiny blip in power lost but not pi
maybe it can keep up the router switch and synology but not the Pi? would be interesting, the PI eats only a few W.
how are the pis powered?
This can be an answer.
original adapter connected to PDU
Very interesting! Do the devices self-coordinate?
usb bricks are pretty shit. I'd move to poe if possible
it can be the answer, because first outage always was a 0.1 second outage lets ay.
say
than the whole UPS does nothing really.
Yeah.
but no.
than how the synology uptime is 5 month.
if there was a lot of longer 3-4 minute outage too
How old is the UPS
1 year 1 month.
That's still pretty young, have a few UPS units that are in the like 5 year mark and have reduced runtimes
yeah I told already the seller. they does not have local repair so I should send far. the price of the package would be the same like a new battery nearly.
1 year was the warranty. other 2 is just from the brand.
really disgusting...
I find that most of my UPS batteries start degrading right around the 1 year mark. Then just a steady decline the older they are.
Any suggestions on the best cleaning vacuum? All of floors are hardwood or tile, no carpet.
check out this guy's channel https://www.youtube.com/@vacuumwars
Vacuum Wars is a product review and comparison channel that helps people make informed choices on their floorcare and air purifier purchases. Our goal? To deliver top-quality content that's helpful, informative, and enjoyable to watch. Catch new videos every Friday and Tuesday at 4:00 PM EST (with just a few exceptions).
We appreciate our viewe...
Kinda old, but I swear by my Roborock S5 flashed with Valetudo. I've replaced the battery in it once in the 4(or maybe 5?) years I've had it.
I have both a roomba combo j7+ and a i7+, and they're both decent, depending on needs. The j series has a camera that avoids obstacles automatically, which is nice, though I find it tends to miss room edges. The i7 gets stuck way more often, but coverage is a bit better.
mopping on the combo is okay, not great, but makes it easier to go a lot longer between proper mopping.
I appreciate the information! We are getting one, just trying to get the best for the $. We have 2 dogs and 1 cat. My wife has long hair and I swear she sheds more than the dogs. 😆
I watch Paul Hibbert and I believe the switchbot s10 is his current favorite, I could be wrong. Yes he gets the item for review but he has called strikes in the past with other smart home devices.
Hi Friends,
Anyone has success putting Google Coral M.2 E-Key 2230 dual TPU to mini pc like Beelink EQ13 pcie x1 or x4 slots or wifi 2230 slots? If so are you getting both the channel there?
I'm looking to monitor the power usage of a single hard-wired device (an electric water immersion heater). A shelly EM seems like it would do the job and nicely integrate with home assistant, but the contactor parts would be redundant to me and therefore I suspect there may be a better device for this - any suggestions/guidance/advice would be welcomed. (apologies if this is not the correct channel - happy to be redirected)
Was the flashing process rough?
If it's on its own circuit then you could consider one that's on the DIN Rail, perhaps this: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TO-Q-SY1-JZT.html
Integrate your Tongou TO-Q-SY1-JZT via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
Where are you in the world and what sort of protocols are you considering?
I'm in the UK. though don't have space on the DIN rail unfortunately so I don't think that's an option. As for protocols... I think I can be flexible here (assuming you mean zigbee/bluetooth etc)
Nope. Took me all of like 8-10 minutes?
Hmmm, in the UK it's a lot tricker (speaking from experience). CT clamps are probably your best option, and Shelly are definitely supported. #energy-archived May also have some useful info for you (I just tried a search in there but I'm on mobile and my brain is only 20% functional 🤣)
Ok, thanks for the pointer - I'll try asking in there too. I'm fine with a CT clamp (I'd assumed this to be the option I'd have to go for already)
They're not the most accurate, generally pretty good but not 100% spot on hence my aversion to them.
Yes, understood - for an immersion heater use case I think this should be OK as it's a large load that's either on or off - so the difference between measureing 2900W and 3000W isn't too significant compared to knowing when it is on or off.
...or maybe I'll look back on your comment in 6months time and realise you were correct and that I've wasted my time and money.
Looking for a smart plug for my espresso machine to work with homeassistant. My machine takes 20 mins to warm up. I want to have plug i can set timer or i get up early to be able to turn it on from my phone if i wake up earlier? I have both zigbee and zwave hubs
And where are you in the world? 🙂
USA
LOL
So, Third Reality plugs are what I would recommend.
Third Reality Smart Plug is a simple solution to make the intelligence appliances smarter, like lights, fans, coffee makers and more. It is a standard ZigBee 3.0 that can directly connect to Echo Devices with ZigBee built-in, SmartThings, Home Assistant, Hubitat, Third Reality hubs. No 3rd party ...
thank so much! Do you mind telling me why you pick this?
I have 11 of them, they are great Zigbee routers, very stable and reliable and do power reporting. Plus, they are ridiculously cheap as well.
So, for your use case, you can setup an automation to turn on the switch and then watch the power meter. When it falls after X minutes, you can have it notify you that the coffee machine is ready.
i assume i can also to siri commands if i have homekit install and an apple hub?
Yup!
"So, for your use case, you can setup an automation to turn on the switch and then watch the power meter. When it falls after X minutes, you can have it notify you that the coffee machine is ready."
wow this is cool
I have one of them on my washing machine that I turn off during the week and on only on weekends. Then I monitor the power and use that for my notification that the cycle has completed.
nice. the link you provide is it gen 2?
https://3reality.com/product/smart-plug-gen2-with-energy-monitoring/
Yup. That's it. 🙂
ordered will be here by 10pm :). Gotta love Amazon Prime. Thanks
lol no problem! If you run into any issues with them (which I doubt you will), post in #zigbee-archived and I can give you a hand.
will do!!
And if you need help with the automations, #automations-archived (or just ping me) and I can share my washing machine automation with you. It should be really similar to your coffee machine.
https://github.com/leofabri/hassio_appliance-status-monitor i use this overcomplicated thing
🔌 Detect the state of your appliances based on their power consumption ✨ - leofabri/hassio_appliance-status-monitor
nice!!
lol my god that seems overly complicated
Huh... might have to check that out... Mine is pretty basic... just a wait_for_trigger and a timer.
Espresso is my love language. Does your machine have a momentary switch or a full toggle for power?
Very good question. Espresso is my new Hobby. I got Profitec 600
there is a toggle switch
so just leave the to toogle switch on right?
Yes 👍
Pretty sweet machine for a new hobby 🥹
right? 🙂
I really want to get one of these and integrate with HA. Unfortunately it doesn't look like anyone has done that before. It's an RF remote, not sure of the frequency, any thoughts on how I could get this to play nice with HA? https://www.amazon.com/MantelMount-MM815-Motorized-Automated-Fireplace/dp/B0C5498MM5/
Now you can bring your large flat-screen TV down off the wall to the perfect height and swivel it left or right with just the push of one button. The award-winning MantelMount presents a first-of-its-kind consumer motorized, remote-controlled TV mount for high on the wall installations, such as o...
Broadlink RM4 Pro does RF and is pretty cheap as well.
Yeah, but do I have to worry about the frequency the remote does? Or do I just assume they'll work toegether?
They make a "Pro" version - that you can't buy yourself, have to pay someone to supply and install for you - that has Ethernet: https://www.snapav.com/wcsstore/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/attachments/documents/Mounts/ManualsAndGuides/MantelMount_MM860_Manual.pdf
Also for what it's worth, the one you linked is currently $50 cheaper direct from the manufacturer: https://www.mantelmount.com/products/mm815-motorized-drop-down-swivel-tv-mount
Typical behaviour, if you ask me. They know that's a feature they should offer, but... don't
I saw the Pro version, but there are no drivers for Home Assistant, I'd happily pay the crazy price for it. If I knew I could integrate it
The MM860V2 does wifi even
It should be something common like 433mhz or something like that. I didn't see anyone in the comments about the frequency either. I wonder if you could reach out to the seller and ask about it?
Could be 433, 900, 2.4G, bluetooth, basically anything
Ew... HATE sellers like that.
Hey everyone, I have a nortek usb zigbee/z-wave dongle. I previously got it set up on a raspberry pi but now I’m using unraid and can’t seem to get the z-wave integration working
usb passthrough enabled for the virtual machine?
I’m running it in docker, but yes the device is passed to the container and the container recognizes the zigbee portion, but I can’t seem to get z-wave recognized. I feel like there’s just something I need to do that I’ve forgotten
I seem to remember needing to specify the usb port in the stick’s configuration file inside HA too
I have the same dongle
Docker on Unraid?
Yes
I’m reading about a zwave js server… I didn’t set anything like that up. I think I probably skipped steps.
Which docker image did you use? The official one or the linuxserver one?
You'll have to do that as another container.
Linuxserver
So, you need to add another path for your nortek stick. It should be /dev/ttyUSB0 and /dev/ttyUSB1 where 0 will be the Zigbee side and 1 should be the ZWave side. (or maybe vice-versa; My nortek stick died a long time ago).
Oh god no
What?
Don’t start a zwave mesh with a nortek dude just buy a better controller
Its ewaste in 2024 lol
lol I did but it about 5 years ago
Ok I got it recognized. I installed z-wave js ui. Now HA is asking for a websocket address.
What controller do you recommend? I’m changing over from a gen 1 SmartThings hub
For usb zooz 800 but I don’t think the nortek supports nvm backup so you’ll have to rejoin your whole mesh iirc
Yep.
is there a wireless usb c i can use for my mmWave Sensor I want to use it for my living room. but my wife hates the cord being shown. trying to find a way to hide it. so trying to fine where a wireless plug where i can plug the power into the outlet and the usb type into the sensor like Bluetooth?
Your best bet might be a sensor that can do what you want out of the box. A zigbee one perhaps.
The most under-rated and unadvertised feature of the Sonos Roam. Besides Hand-off of audio, the Sonos Roam is able to work as a bluetooth gateway for your whole Sonos setup. With just a single Roam, every single Sonos speaker that you have will be able to play sounds from a bluetooth device with little latency and no timing issues.
This is made...
Hoping I can get some help. I'm a newb to HA so forgive me.
I got HA set up on my home server, and got some of my basics set up (Philips HUE and Nest Cams). The big one is getting our MRCOOL units on HA. I bought a couple Smartlight modules (https://smartlight.me/smart-home-devices/wifi-devices/wifi-dongle-air-conditioners-midea-idea-electrolux-for-home-assistant) and got one installed in one of the MRCOOL units. I went to the web address and entered my Wifi SSID and PW.
I can see it in OMaa dashboard that it's connected, but it doesn't have an IP. I even set the MAC address to a fixed IP, and reconnected it, and still nothing.
I have 10 of these I need to set up, I'm a little concerned that I can't even get one done 😦
I can't help on that, but I do want to thank you for that link. My sister has a HVAC similar to this, and I thought I was going to have to try to do an IR/RF blaster system to make it smart. Didn't even know these things were an option
Me either, a guy on Reddit gave me the link.
Just a warning, you may need to trim the inside of the female USB plug in the HVAC unit.
Hi everybody, i'm new here 🙂
I just buy a plug TP-Link Tapo P115, I try to add it on my HomeAssistant... I try first to add a new integretion "Tapo" but when I make a searsh on the network he tell me he dont find any device", then after I add the integration IFTTT but with this I'm lost, I dont know how to add my plug... I hope I'm on the good place to have a little help ? 🙂
the trick for me will be finding the plug and try to see what chips I can find
It's just called "TP-Link Smart Home" in modern versions: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/tplink/
You have to set the plug up using the TP-Link app, then sign into the same account to connect it to Home Assistant
ok I try ! Thanks !
Mh I cant install it because he tell me : No devices found on the network
What's the brand?
Not entirely sure HOW, but I got it working. I connected to the AC-wifi and reconnected it to my wifi for the 3rd or 4th time and it finally took.
99% sure it's a mitsubishi
good chance. Geoff there tested the GL02NA, I'm looking at a GL24NA. But the docs that were supposed to be linked for the specifics is missing
Dooh! Well it's a place to start anyway 🙂
yeah, the dev that was doing some of the original coding, I think a lot of their stuff isn't being actively worked or something. The trick is the building is 2 years old, so it -is- possible that the model is new enough to cause problems
i'll try to see tomorrow if it has that CN105 header, if so I think it'll be worth the $15 to experiment
Different question for the room: my sister (who has the other HA setup I manage) is asking me about a power strip that can integrate with HA. This advertises that the 4 outlets (I know the USB won't be switchable, that's fine) can be independently controlled. Has anyone had experience trying to integrate something like this into HA? https://amz.run/9OY3
I'm looking for cheap temperature sensors to litter around the house for logging.
They should not depend on any manufacturer cloud and work on WiFi as I don't have any Zigbee stuff.
Bonus points if it is rechargeable.
Does anyone know something like that?
I also wouldn't mind a #diy-archived solution if it isn't too involved, hardware-wise.
I've been snagging Tuya ones for basic work at the places I'm running HA. Get them cheap on AliExpress. Pretty sure they sell wifi versions too
Most of us are out here fighting the good fight to keep people from using tuya and you’re out here suggesting it lol
Hi all, I actually came across some pretty good deals on nest products - how bad would it be to start off with these (doorbell, thermostat, protect, cameras) ? Like we're talking around 60-70% off on all of them from their retail price
I would avoid Nest. First, there’s a cloud requirement. Secondly, there’s a subscription fee and thirdly, the Nest integration isn’t all that good. Well, the integration is fine. Google’s cloud infrastructure kinda sucks.
ouch, you'd think after spending so much they wouldn't smack you with a subscription haha
but thanks for your opinion 😄 something to consider before pulling the trigger
not buying anything branded or owned by google is a good idea for home assistant
lots of other better products without their stank on it
i get that, but when Snow said cheap, well ... they -are- cheap
In this case, if a temp sensor running on 2 AAA batteries burns down your house, I feel like the movie rights may make up for the cost 😛
I have a couple of these https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TM-YKQ004.html#tuya-tm-ykq004
and a couple of these: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0044.html#tuya-ts0044
both are fine
Does anyone have recommendations for smart home water usage meters, with or without auto shut off?
I'm seeing massive differences in prices, $150 to $600, some with auto shut off, some on your meter, some that clamp on and some that have to be installed.
I bought the Hub M3 from Aqara and wanted to integrate it into Home Assistant, how does that work?
you know what forget i said anything i was wrong
apparently you can add the M3 as a Matter bridge
ok but ha doesn't connect to the hub no matter what pairing code I use, whether it's from apple or the other one that's on it
i'm going to continue talking out of my ass, since i don't have one myself
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/aqara-m3-hub/730085/12
when i look at this thread, it seems some people managed to get it added as a Matter device by first pairing the hub to the Aqara app, then getting a Matter share code for the hub in the app settings
i'll be honest, i don't really see how this is preferable to just buying a compatible TBR like a Homepod Mini and adding all your devices directly to Home Assistant that way
only available from aliexpress?
is it possible to upgrade the home assistant blue, which is run on an ODROID, to use a internal m.2 drive if it has that instead?
Maybe an odd one, but I haven't found any guides online yet: any ideas on how to convert normal/dumb Ikea cellular blinds to smart? Trying to figure out how to wire up a motor and such
I know im not the only one with the need, has anyone found a internal cabinet lock that interfaces with home assitant but also has redundancy( i.e RFID). Looking to locked up my bedside drawer.
I could see that being handy for a liquior cabinet too 🙂
If I want to replace almost all my lights with lights I can access via HA, what's the best way to do that? Replace the bulbs, replace switches/outlets?
Depends on the lights. I would reccomend Zigbee lights to keep wifi kinda clean. I have a mixture of lights and that includes a set of tubed lights for those i just got a zigbee lightswitch and did that instead of trying to find smart tube bulbs at the time.
I am looking to replace most hallway, bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen lights. Fancy lighting like in the dining room and main floor bathroom (the antique looking LEDs) I figure I'd need to replace the switch.
Definitely never tried it, but I'd think something like https://www.globalsources.com/product/bidirectional-zigbee-electronic-lock-magnetic_1146938279f.htm
might take up the entirety of your bedside drawer though
or https://www.maglocks.com/sdc-excel-e300-for-cabinet-display-case-and-bathroom.html but you'd need to byo-controller
@slim lagoon yooo
You rang?
I thought about a way to handle that fanlight pro app easier
Oh really? Do share!
So I have that 14 Inch screen which is contacted to older phone and I use it as my home assistant dashboard
And I just thought about that it's just a phone
And the remote I will mount near the bed with little magnet to the wall
And this way I can easily handle the fan from 2 points in the room
Can't automate things with that method but makes it much more comfortable
Huh, that’s pretty cleaver tbh! I was playing with ADB the other day, but didn’t get very far.
Let me know if you get something there! I won't rest until I figure it out
The current LG ThinQ integration from HACS relies on the cloud, has anyone ever gotten local control through other means? Whether it's some sort of ESP device or otherwise
Can anyone recommend a cheap ssd and adapter/enclosure for my pi 3b+? Anything on Amazon that is known to work is fine. 128gb will work, not looking for anything crazy.
Anything at 128gb is pretty cheap to get
For the adapter you want to make sure it comes with external power
Nope. ThinQ uses an encrypted tunnel that’s yet to be cracked. There’s been a lot of attempts over the past few years.
I want to buy some hue motion sensors
Anyone know of a solution to smarten up a fan with 5 speeds, I bought a sonof ifan but didn't realize this fan had other stuff going on. So I have 2 led wires and 3 motor wires. And the power stuff
Should I buy this Zigbee adapter? I know some people said to stay away from sonoff, but idk if that applies to USB adapters too
they are mostly good enough
Yea, the E is ok. Not great, not crappy.
What are the drawbacks?
some batches of T models / with TI parts were faulty a while back
the drawbacks are mostly the differences in the used chipsets (and firmware in combination)
less stability, memory limiting amount of devices, and so on
Oh...device limit
This is 20 eur
The HA skyconnect is 38 eur
Should i just wait and get it?
it may serve you just fine
or it wont, its not trivial to say really
#zigbee-archived could probably offer some more guidance
Any recommendation for a zigbee/wifi (preferably homekit enabled) relay with 110V AC input and switches a separate ~40V DC circuit?
Nope
Is there any configuration outside of network setup that needs to be done on an Apollo MSR-2?
Having issues with the light level sensor
Most of the time it's in the 0.1-2.0 range, but sometimes it reports 2400 or more lux
I did find https://github.com/JanM321/esphome-lg-controller, but I can't figure out if it works with the A/C unit I have
So just get the sonoff one?
I’d personally buy the sonoff p dongle and use it with z2m
If you asked in the past 2-3 years the answer would be a sonoff p dongle using z2m. Unfortunately lately users here have decided to start pushing beta supported hardware on consumers wanting a reliable zigbee mesh and that’s disappointing.
Allright, gonna see if i can get my dad to buy a sky connect then
Lmfao
Sonoff E dongle > Sonoff P dongle.
vi > emacs
i'm not sure i'd draw the same parallels
@slim lagoon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmtLeB4ZplU based on this and some further digging I’ve done on Reddit, seems lg is least of the suck of the premium / smart options
In this video, I discuss my opinions on various washer brands throughout the US and Europe, and try to give you some ideas on what machines to consider purchasing as well as avoiding. Additionally, there are a few things you can do to help give your machine a good fighting chance for a longer life, too. Maybe these tips will help you stay out of...
I would agree with that. My LG dryer has been fantastic.
which model i might get the same one
so interesting. Bosch is what I always see recommended for major appliances
it is more recommended
but i am choosing this more because it's a choice at costco w/ free delivery and costco warranty
aaaah
bosch/miele would be the dream
that makes sense
YUP
but honestly i've only learned enough to make a poor mans decision
if i had fuck you money i'd put more energy into it to get the best
i approach most things in life like that
Yeah, if I was living in my forever home I'd do that too
otherwise i end up knowing about shit i cant afford and what fun is that
fair
I’ll have to go check. The stupid LG app doesn’t give the model anymore. 
you have to use their app?
i saw a miele fridge that probably costs more than my car at a clients house last year
my half a jimmy johns sandwich somehow felt like it sullied it
sonoff e works with ZHA, plug and play and just works, no issues. If you need z2m for something, that may push you towards the P. I bought the E as it was the same chipset as the skyconnect dongle, so figured it would be fully supported fora while. At the cost of these things, buy both if you want.
back in 2016 I used a Miele dishwasher that still said "made in west germany".... 🙂
Hey all. I'm looking to get started with HomeAssistant to remotely turn a pump on and off while I'm on vacation, at first manually and later automatically when I get back and can babysit it. Any suggestions on hardware? I'd also like to do custom voice and ai study later as well with smart mics. I'm a Sr dork so not scared of fiddling but do want to get up and going pretty quick next week so I can enjoy my vacation .
(weird timing, but i was traveling)
impressive in a strange way lol
I also would like to control deadbolt as well but haven't checked on that ecosystem in years
of course i have a mini-screwdriver stamped "w. germany" on my desk also (I live in California)
Any reason not to just grab a pi?
yeah not a pi
pi rely on microsd as their hard drive and those fail. so you can avoid that by going usb to sata adapter + ssd + powered usb hub blah blah or you can just buy a mini pc upfront and have a better experience from start to finish
controlling the pump hardware itself depends on inrush current mostly
what kind of pump
you just wanting a smart plug or?
Here's my take on why: #general-archived message
You're limited in what you can run (ARM) and debugging is harder,
you really bury the lede here
it's not just "debugging is harder"
if you do mini pc and install a full linux OS like proxmox you get a full linux OS to debug including a webui to access over lan (compared to haos and a prayer)
that to me itself is a huge plus
If I vietualize it it's gonna be in kube
I got some spare laptops
this is very popular lately^
I can toss it on one
I got some old ssds that would be fine. As an aside I used rpi to run an embedded pos device for years and had very few failures over 100 machine yearsm. I bought my samsung sd cards in person.
home assistant writes to database often
you can buy high endurance sd cards all you want
$20 Shelly ok?
end of the day if you start with a mini pc you wont regret it
$20 shelly okay for what?
To control a remote plug
a remote plug?
at what amps and inrush current is this remote plug being used for?
if you want a smart plug that can handle high amps i would do this: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/4th-of-july-zooz-super-sale-2024/products/zooz-700-series-z-wave-plus-outdoor-smart-plug-zen05
Take Z-Wave Outdoors PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Single outlet with on/off Z-Wave control for outdoor Holiday lights, patio lights, small pumps or motors under 1/3 hp, and other appliances under 15 A resistive power (no dimming control) Weather and impact-resistant housing withstands damp or wet conditions (IP65 rated) NEW in 8
if you pair it via zwave long range you can get pretty far
like instead of meters tens/hundreds of meters
you need a zwave controller capable of long range
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-ZST39-Assistant-HomeSeer-Software/dp/B0BW171KP3 this is the easy answer
along with a usb extender to get it away from the usb ports themselves
I'll revisi that after I get it up and running though, this is one room over next to the wifi router
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHqZhNcFEvA 30 second video showing why
USB 3.0 can cause your Zigbee devices to fully stop functioning. In this video we show this by moving a Zigbee device and Zigbee adapter next to USB 3.0 port and cable.
The demo is done with a Home Assistant SkyConnect and IKEA Tradfri remote but this affects all Zigbee sticks and devices.
To avoid interference, use a shielded USB 2.0 extensio...
wifi?
Shelley can talk over wifi right without needing zigbee or zwave?
So I could spend $20 and kick the "which mesh" decision down the road?
yolo
im indifferent i dont see a reason to use shelly over this for this purpose
wifi airtime fairness and not stacking wifi clients on APs matters to me
Got a suggestion in a smaller plug form factor for inside?
I'll grab that zwave dongle while I'm at it
just a smart plug?
like a lamp? what's the load
Im looking at a different model, whether the internals vary I don't know claims15a but if you think the other has more metal in it...
Any suggestions on how to monitor high water level?
Something I could hook a float switch to?
"random tuya" and "40A rating" is quite possibly the best part of that post
Because speaking of things that won't live up to expectations, I'm going to say that device
for shore
If the tank is big enough, ultrasonic sensors are reasonably reliable
of what
float switch is the easiest solution
float switch is 2 wires right?
this shit can be used for so many things
otherwise you can use an esp32 flashed w/ esphome or tasmota or w/e
Hrmm would prefer something without a battery...
ok diy esp32 it is
Getting more into the actual hardware portion of automation now that I have Zigbee fairly stable. Got a few cheap RGBW bulbs and PIR motion sensors on AliExpress. Anyone have any good AliExpress recommendations for presence sensors?
@cold moon DLE3600W is my LG Dryer (I think).
Zigbee presence sensors suck compared to WiFi ones. Apollo Automation’s MSR-2/MTR-1 are my top picks.
Intersting, why is that? Just not anyone really making them?
even if they did make good ones they would spam the mesh
zone 1 occupied? update
zone2? update
zone3? u pdate
gate1? uipate
gate3? update
They make them, but they are a pain to tune and to reduce spamming the mesh, they don’t report as often as a WiFi one will.
etc etc etc
lol if you can even find Zigbee presence sensor that do gates.
ur a gate
❤️ u 2 ass. lol
I also have an exploded Shelly laying around here. The big 3EM model.
It took one of the 35A main fuses with it.
yeah honestly i've heard a lot of that
Dayum, friend of mine has Shellys in almost all his light switches.
How are we feeling about SONOFF ZBMINIL2 or similar?
fire+1
What you guys using for Alexa style microphones and speakers?
I have a pair to install, haven't gotten around to it, but it's for led lights, and nothing else
If anyone is familiar with MSR-2s... is there a fix for the light level sensor? It looks like it should be between 0.1 and 2.0 under normal circumstances, but several times per day it shoots up to like 2000+
Manually change the update interval to under 60 seconds
What does that have to do with the update interval?
If 2.0 is room lights on full brightness, then 2000 is like being on the surface of the sun... gotta be a bug, right?
probably, but if you set the update interval to <60seconds it doesnt seem to happen
#LUX sensor update interval
- platform: ltr390
id: !extend ltr_390
update_interval: 10s
yaml^
Paste that into configuration.yaml ?
hello i just purchased my new SMLIGHT A1-SLWF-03. I have flashed it and installed onto home assitant. but for some reason the lights are not doing anything. they are just stuck on two lights. are there any settings that need to be adjusted?
do i need a dc adapter for my power supply?
150g but im probably looking to monitor only the freshwater topoff which is like 3gal - i guess i could just remove that and dose right into the main tank
ugh, every machine i got spare is either too good or too annoying to deal with for HA. I've got a 2yr o ld mac amd64-arch macbook pro with 32GB of ram spare and a Windows-8 era laptop with a missing PSU that will cost $28 and take two-days to replace
i got a raspberry pi8 that can get stolen from the CNC machine for a week and a laptop on the eliptical that is 4yrs old but servicable...hrmmm. A victim will need to be selected tomorrow
N2830 Dual Core 2.16GHz 4MB RAM: 4GB. Worth $23...hrmmm
Yes. Looks like the strip and controller are not getting enough power.
yeah i figured. I have this power adpater but when i plug it in my lights blink and i loose WIFI connection
Aquired. Be here Tuesday.
Do I need to buy a high voltage phone charger?
Is there any way easy way to detect a specific phone is within a few feet to unlock a deadbolt automatically?
We have both in our house unfortunately
It would be ideal if it worked with mine in my pocket but my wife had to use nfc from her iPhone
#android-archived app has a high accuracy mode you can enable when in a zone, such as a passive zone around the house
Not sure if #ios_and_mac-archived has the same
Exxxxcellent...
How does that work? Any chance it's triangulation signal strength phone side?
Ah
iOS kinda does in the location settings in the system (Precise Location). Not sure exactly how accurate it is compared to Android.
It works very reliably
Hass arms alarm and locks doors when last person leaves the house and it applies and I get a notification 3-4 houses down the street
Hello, anyone know if it’s possible to convert an anazon echo 5 into a wyoming satellite.
With the amazon day coming the price will be appealing and It will look bettet on a shelf than a diy devices. Thanks
theoretically yes but it will involve replacing pretty much all of its internals
replacing the hardware or the software ? I guess the software can be fully replaced but for the hardware it will make buying the echo useless.
Amazon doesn't want to make it easy to reuse their hardware without their software. I mean, this is Amazon we're talking about.
they might've seen a google home mini repurposed with one of those custom PCBs and wondered if there's a similar one?
Perhaps... tbh, I've heard this question a lot of the years and my answer is always the same. Amazon will never use components that can be easily repurposed because they lose money on that.
And there have been a LOT of people who have tried, many have failed.
i wouldnt expect an esp32 and a jtag / serial solder pads ready to party but still
i doubt amazon puts this much thought into it compared to like apple
amazon puts 30 dudes who all hate each other on the project and pay their boss 3x their salary and fire 3 of them every 30 days until they get it done
so to expect greatness from that group^ lol
I need a recommendation of ventilation system, available in the Netherlands, budget max. 300 eu (for 300 to 350m3 output), that I can further automate with HA using CO2 and humidity sensors to turn it on.
I see new models mostly come already with a built-in humidity sensor, but it is not required. mostly I saw on the forum recommending to have 2 humidity sensors in the house (inside and outside toilet) to compare them for better results.
This is the closest I've ever seen someone get with the Echo at all: https://hackaday.com/2021/03/22/amazon-echo-gets-open-source-brain-transplant/ and that was on the ancient Echo gen 1 device.
I'm looking for someone that makes use of an esp32 chip to send data from their Growatt inverter to Home Assistant. I don't want to make use of the Growatt integration that makes use of the data dongle that logs in a 5 minutes interval.
I currently have this (https://community.home-assistant.io/t/srne-inverter-integration-help/609730) that works with my SRNE inverter and I am looking for the equivalent for Growatt.
Hi all, I’m not good at coding. However, I managed to integrate my SRNE HF4850S80-H inverter with HA with ESP32 through ESPHome. Below is the YAML file I have used. esphome: name: srne-inverter friendly_name: SRNE inverter esp32: board: esp32dev framework: type: arduino # Enable logging logger: # Enable Home Assistant API ap...
thank you for the answer, such shame amazon make their devices to be so closed
I recently got a Beelink Mini S12 Pro (N100) to host HA on Proxmox. I know that it comes with Windows 11, but I've seen suggestions to put Linux on it instead. Will I notice much of a performance difference between W11 and Linux (considering Ubuntu)?
Or, for someone who's new to HAOS and virtualization in general (myself), will W11 be just fine for starting out?
https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html just follow this there’s no reason to keep windows on it
So I had seen this guide posted before but didn't have a chance to read it. As I'm skimming through it, I had no idea Proxmox could go on bare metal... that's pretty sweet. My plan was originally to run W11/Ubuntu with Proxmox installed, but putting Proxmox on the metal is even better
Someone mentioned to boot up the initial W11 installation on my Mini PC just to activate Windows and then install whatever I want on it after that just so I can go back to W11 if I need to later. Is there any validity to that?
The guide is built on using the exact same m100
I’ve followed it myself
Fuck the key you can have windows validate a legit install by googling massgravel and following a tutorial
But ya you could login with a ms account and save the key to your account
It’s a legit volume license key prob
I don't know what this means exactly but I don't know if I care ha. I guess I was thinking of saving the key to my MS account initially but I haven't done OS installs in a long time (kids get in the way)
Ha fair enough, I'll google. I think I'll save the key to my account and then wipe it out with Proxmox bare metal. Thanks man
Iirc it has you do firmware upgrades for bios if not it can’t hurt
It might ship with newest tho
Might be easier in windows if so
I did see the guide talk about bios updates so I'll just look up how to do that in Windows after my initial boot up. Appreciate the help/clarity, I think I have a good plan forward
np they're really nice little mini pcs. i bet you could spin up a win11 vm and do light desktop duties alongside haos vm and some containers and still have room to play
Yeah, I think my plan right now would be HAOS and Plex as my primary containers (or whatever Proxmox calls them). Plex is a bit more resource intensive, but compared to the Synology NAS I currently have it on, the S12 Pro is going to be much more hardware than that.
Since I almost always do local streaming I figure that would be a good move
i would consider a dockerhost VM (there are tutorials and tteck has a script for the dockerhostvm host OS like debian) instead of LXCs
but to start out and just play, the 1 liner tteck proxmox LXC scripts are nice for plex etc. i wouldnt actually use that myself over a docker setup tho
but like.. spinning up an adguard lxc from tteck and leaving that going i'd suggest in a heartbeat
For starters lxc allows you to rather easily utilize the igpu
Interesting, just out of curiosity why go with a dockerhost VM vs proxmox LXC? I'm still very new to all of this so I will play around and get familiar either way
tteck scripts will be my go-to
i think he will run into issues trying to do drive mapping etc with a bunch of lxcs instead of using docker w/ volumes (plex, sonarr, radarr, lidarr, etc etc etc)
Performance and encapsulation
Long term probably
So better performance/encapsulation with a dockerhostvm that can run all of my media stuff. I like that idea, appreciate the suggestion
I guess I was going to just go LXCs but that doesn't really make sense it looks like
It does if you’re a Linux nerd and like lxcs
If not find a dockerhost vm guide
You can do that later
Yeah, only use LXCs if you actually understand them
Most people who use them come here because things broke and they don't know what to do
I'm cool with using Docker and there's a lot of stuff I wouldn't mind running on it so I will probably go that route anyway. Thanks guys
In a nutshell, I guess I kind of thought of them as barebone Linux "containers" that can utilize metal hardware better? I can also be way off
Well, yes but no but sort of
The problem is that if you don't actually understand how to work with them you can easily get in a mess
I see a lot of people who use tteck's LXC scripts, and then get in trouble because they haven't a damn clue what they're running
Fair enough. The trouble people get into with an LXC would be limited to that virtualization within Proxmox though, right?
If you can learn Docker you can learn LXCs. It's the lack of learning that trips people upu
Well, mostly people who use LCX here use it on Proxmox, but not exclusively
People get themselves in trouble every day here with stuff they don't understand, and don't want to understand. LXC is just one of them.
VMS come with the advantage of rarely shooting your host
I mean, I run everything in Docker, but I also know how to do backups (and recovery)
Yeah, makes sense. I do software dev for my job so we use Docker all the time (at least the Devops guys do) so I have an idea of what I'm doing there at least when it comes to images and stuff.
haven't done Proxmox yet, but I'm looking forward to making my S12 Pro a Proxmox exclusive box
My plan to start:
- Boot up the mini pc, activate windows and save the key, update bios, etc.
- Wipe it out with Proxmox bare metal
- Install HAOS
- Dockerhost VM
That's a good plan, and VM snapshots have saved many people here
Consider using the fancy installation script there is for haos on proxmox at least as a fallback option
The tteck scripts? That was going to be my plan I think
Not sure but the one that's quite popular
Had to use that today as I failed to transfer the vm image to a new host
This one I think: https://tteck.github.io/Proxmox/#home-assistant-os-vm
Scripts for Streamlining Your Homelab with Proxmox VE
Ah yes
Not to get too much into the weeds, but why go with HAOS VM vs LXC?
not yet
Then see my points above
Yeah that's fine, functionality of HA will be the same I would assume?
I don't really know why, I guess I was reading it more as "Home Assistant OS Core LXC" even though that doesn't make sense. It's a Monday
The Core LXC is for a pure Core experience, in a way you can't manage
You'd be better off learning to juggle with running chainsaws
The Container LXC makes even less sense IMO
That works for me, curiosity killed the cat or something like that. I like keeping thing simple so HAOS it is
linux will probaly use alot less resource wise so i would assume so
Yeah, I plan to go with Proxmox on bare metal (https://www.proxmox.com/en/proxmox-virtual-environment/get-started) since I don't phave any other plans for my Mini PC. Looking forward to getting started with it
Just out of curiosity, why does that guide call to not set it up over WiFi? I can run a cable, but I just moved and my internet setup is a bit janky at the moment
WiFi ain't for servers 😉
Hello
Sorry I'm very new and very confused.
I would like to avoid cloud base service and I'm not sure to understand if this controller requires a tuya server : https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EyCUMRz
It says it requires a gateway, which if I'm correct my mini pc with a ZigBee stick should be enough?
Recently shopping for wall/ceiling lights and I came across an LED light fixture that automatically changes temperature to cooler when brighter and warmer when dimmer. I'm wondering if anyone knows of an E26 bulb that does this. Yes, I could automate this with Hue or similar, but I just installed a bunch of smart dimmer switches and would prefer a dumb-ish bulb.
Ya I think Philips makes bulbs like that
Any idea of model number or something like that? I haven't been able to find anything. Closest I've found is the Philips bulbs with the dial in the base that lets you manually select temp.
No I think digiblur made a video on them a couple years ago
I keep seeing articles about non-connected LED bulbs that get warm the more they dim, but cannot seem to find any. I have a few flashlights that do this and would love it - 5000k at 100% and 2700k by 10%. Does anyone make this? Or am I going to have to go with the Philips Hue Warm to Cool smart bulb? If I do this, can I do it all via Zigbee ...
Philips warm glow maybe
anyone tried the battery-less/self-powered zigbee push button/switch? to be specific, the one made by tuya. how reliable are those? i.e. are there presses that did not get registered properly?
I have 20$ free from aliexpress and just stating my HA journey. What would you get? I am looking at ESPHome? But unsure of what device as there is so many models.
just be ware there are many overpriced products on aliexpress
I am a pro with using coins 🙂
I don't really know how aliexpress works, only ordered there once for the reolink doorbell
scroll down to get 10% off in the discount channel, always get way below regular aliexpress price
for other stuff I usually order directly on taobao
but need 1 item for 20$, they have esp32 bundles, but this scares me "Support for ESP32 variants such as the S2, S3 and C3 is still in development and there could be issues."
sorry I can't really help as I have no experience with esp32 integration into home assistant
the stuff I have is just zigbee based
any recommendations? maybe for a zigbee hub?
you don't need a hub
you need a zigbee usb or networked zigbee coordinator
for example, I have the sonoff zigbee coordinator
but I would like to switch to a PoE powered, networked coordinator
I think this is the one I have https://gtms01.alicdn.com/tps/i4/T12pdtXaldXXXXXXXX-2-2.png
zigbee does mesh networking right so it can bounce around zigbee devices to the coordinator? I have a wired 4 story house.
yes it does, however it only repeats on a "router" device type afaik
thats just a 2 pixel icon
for example, fixed ceiling light, smart plug
oh
this device does all the zigbee stuff directly with home assistant
i.e. home assistant communicates directly with this and zigbee devices, with no gateway in between
BLE is supposed to be lower power though so it can potentially last a year + on a single battery charge? Or should I be looking for plugged in devices?
I am not sure as I only have zigbee devices unfortunately
Xiaomi do nice buttons that work well, and they're not Tuya
Do you know any non tuya alternative to this? I'm still not sure it's tuya but I'm afraid it is
Gledopto do great #zigbee-archived LED controllers
are they self-powered? i.e. no battery or mains required
Well, no, for self-powered you need Green power and support for those is ... not great
Hue Tap is green powered
With all the problems that brings
the tuya ones I mentioned are self-powered
They're probably also green power
well I have no idea
you mentioned there are problems, can you name a few? thank you
Tuya stuff is mostly made to a price point, and then they cut all the corners they can
Just search this server and you'll get hundreds of thousands of complaints about Tuya crap
oh

maybe I am just lucky and had no problem with tuya until now you mentioned it, I never noticed
has a few tuya smart plugs and sensors
Tuya Zigbee stuff isn't always total shit, but their wifi stuff...
I've had better luck with their WiFi shit, tbh. Zigbee, no. Just never works right or for very long.
btw, is thread mature enough in Home Assistant? just saw a video from a few years ago mentioning thread and home assistant
thread bad, matter bad, check back next year
next year: thread and matter still promising the world and delivering less than zigbee/zwave/somewifi/somebluetooth
It's almost double the price of the one I sent. Is there really a difference? I'm doing CCT strip
Yes
Ok then I'll take this one thanks
Since it's not possible to get ecobee working with HA if you don't already have a developer account, what's currently the best Thermostat system for HA?
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Have you looked into bringing the ecobee in locally with Apple Home/homebridge?
congrats on the cool kids club!
What are you guys using to monitor energy usage on dryers and air conditioners? Things with those funky 240v plugs
Country USA
My solutions are:
- Live in the UK, it uses a regular plug
- Hang most things to dry, which can be assumed at 0 energy usage.
Not viable for everyone, but it works for me 😂
Recommended clamps?
Was thinking dryer cord extension, separate a wire on the extension and clamp it
Can’t modify the actual dryer cord cause I’d like my security deposit back
and you just shouldn't do that
Correct
How difficult is that? Do I need any extra hardware? Do I need an Apple account and do I need to setup Apple Homekit?
I also wonder how well something like this would work:
https://a.co/d/8KQdZ82
The T5 Smart Thermostat allows you to take comfort knowing your home temperature will always be just how you like it. It's easy to install and use and conveniently fits in with your lifestyle. The T5 thermostat is ENERGY STAR certified and you can program it based on your schedule, or let it adap...
really it's the extension that's the issue
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit_controller/
No extra hardware needed
apparently the actual shielding of the cable being stripped away doesnt seem to matter even if it feels wrong
very
Thanks. So would I need to set it up with Homekit first? I don't have any Apple devices or an Apple account
No other apple devices
Nope, read that page. If it's a HomeKit device you can just set it up with Home Assistant
Awesome, thanks friends!
there are some caveats like some devices dont love staying connected this way
but the only one i can actually comment on is ecobee 3 lite via homekit_controller and that seems to be an issue with the ecobee not the integration
Thanks for letting me know
Does anyone have experience with the Honeywell T5 thermostat?
Or really any other thermostats under $100?
I don't. You might ask in #zigbee-archived about honeywell thermostats there, I believe there is one that gets recommended for zigbee networks a fair amount.
There are some Hive ones: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/#s=Thermostat
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
honeywell zigbee/zwave thermostats are pretty popular if you are cool with a "regular looking mostly dumb thing"
aka it's as smart as you make it but doesnt have flashy stuff like an ecobee might
and some guys want that
Dryer extension cord, cut it in the middle, inline Shelly PM rated properly…?
no
Lol
the biggest issue is the extension cord
you're making a shitload of amps travel further which increases heat
use a vibration sensor
it's not ideal
i think maybe the actual simplest solution is wire up an esp32 to the buzzer
Doesn’t have one
Nah that’s a good thing
i dont have my dryer smart either
I like sleep lmao
my dryer died 2 days ago im waiting to buy a new LG soon
Moving country seems like a valid solution right now, just saying.
Apparently.
fwiw this really isnt feasable for probably 80% of people in the usa
It was a joke 😉
too much real for joke 😛
Also a hella stupid reason for someone to ACTUALLY move
Honestly, what I'd probably do is use #tags-archived or add a button to the dryer that you use to log running it in HA, and then estimate the energy usage.
There's a lot of stupid in this world nitro
Tags you can get it to ask you how long it's running for, button you just assume it's for X cycle length.
Vibration sensor might be the move tho
Vibration sensors aren't really great for things like washers and dryers. I tried them myself.
Oof
Alternatively: button the dryer "start cycle", and door sensor on the door "end cycle"
i've heard people have had success w/ them
Then you just assume it runs for the whole time.
but my dryer is also an old pos that rumbles so id expect mine to actually trigger
no idea i've never owned a nice one
Not as much as you'd think
from a DIY esphome perspective there's gotta be multiple ways to approach it
And vibration sensors are intended for a change to movement, not "this thing is moving and I am staying on while it keeps moving"
ya true
You could also try a temperature sensor next to the vent.
A significant rise in temperature means the machine is running
oh if you wanted to go inside vent that would be a 100% confirmation
too much work for dryer tho
https://a.co/d/17xojOZ are these a better alternative to smart bulbs? Just plain white ones. Thinking this might be better because if the physical switch is flipped it won’t freak out
im not a fan
Why not?
Even a temperature sensor on the door/side of the machine could work thinking about it. https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/threshold/
It depends on what you want If you want things like dimming too, smart bulbs tend to be nicer. You could also look into smart light switches, e.g. #zigbee-archived ones from Aqara.
Thing with smart bulbs is the brightness sucks cheeks
And if someone flips the physical switch ur just screwed
I just put switch covers with smart switches over all my original light switches.
$40 each dang
it be like that
you want to stuff some random shit in a wall that has lots of links to people posting them catching fire on reddit or do you want a nice fancy smart switch with multi tap etc?
Buy cheap, have regrets. Buy decent, be happy.
My apartment didn’t say anything about not modifying switches… just said no paint modifications 👀💀
rip apartment

Do you have access to the breakerbox?
Yes
I feel like "burning it down" is probably not accepted either...
And I’m electrically competent
I wouldn’t touch any apt wiring id hold off personally
Looking at my box, there’s 1 15A breaker labeled “bedrooms” 💀 ur telling me both bedrooms are running off a 15A breaker?
Dafuq
Mine is worse lol
2 bedrooms and half a living room on a 20a
that sort of thing is way way more commonplace than you'd think
Weird
every line is on same circuit lol
Okay so if I got this
https://a.co/d/hzAZkIk
And set it up with it's app, it would then show in HA as a HomeKit device? Do you think it would show the current temp and humidity and what not?
The T5 Smart Thermostat allows you to take comfort knowing your home temperature will always be just how you like it. It's easy to install and use and conveniently fits in with your lifestyle. The T5 thermostat is ENERGY STAR certified and you can program it based on your schedule, or let it adap...
it should but it really comes down to what the device exposes to the integration.
and I have an ecobee 🙂
Thanks
The good news is if you order from amazon and it doesn't work out, the return policy is very forgiving
True! Thanks for your help I really appreciate it! I'm brand new to this stuff
y o l o
any suggestions on switches with a keepalive or countdown functionality switch-side? I've got a pump that...were the network/homeassistant/whatever to go poof while the switch was on and it wasn't able to get turned off...things would be bad
that's a big benefit of the zwave one i linked before
but you can do it w/ esphome too
oh
I ended up buying a slightly different one just because the other one was a few days longer to lay hands on, i dont mind order another. I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details instead - partially because it said it was for sumps
you mean like normally opened vs normally closed?
oh sorry i actually should've linked that one
i thought that was the outdoor plug ( i thought they were one in the same)
Well I'd like it to be NC (and i can test that on this in a bit) but i'd really like to just have it power off if it didn't hear back from the control server
and that may be implemented. I need to empty my tank a bit so i can test and have time to disconnect stuff without a flood 😛
you can set an auto shutdown timer or something
it would have to be a device-side feature
I used to run my own solenoids with an arduino and it's the first thing I added. and again, possibly here on this one, but not an explicitly advertised feature
$2 for 2-4 Layer PCBs, free ENIG for 6Layer PCBs:https://jlcpcb.com/AAA
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Twitter: ...
maybe you want to do that instead 😛
currently running in wsl2, my nuc be here tomorrow before 10pm
ew
you dissapointed I didn't sacrifice the 32GB macbook pro for instant gratification?
no i just think some things should never coexist and windows and home assistant nested fits the bill
like a snake raising a duck
somehow i feel like the duck deserves better
number.power_switch_auto_off_timer is apparently not supported on this switch as its disabled
anyone have any radio recommendations? i was thinking of buying the zooz 800 zwave, but then realized i would need a zigbee stick too... i heard of the "zig-a-zig-ah" which seems to take care of all the radio protocols under one stick. they've been sold out since 2022 so is there anything similar?
You should get individual sticks. The dual sticks have never worked very well.
i know it's probably not cost effective, but if i wanted "all of my bases covered" which protcols do i go for? right now i understand BLE, ZWave, Zigbee (if i get the HA stick it seems like it'll be updated to Thread). any others?
And the zooz 800 zwave stick is a good choice as is the zbt-1 from HA
i've seen the proprietary protocols like Lutron or Kidde, do those just simulate a device in their respective ecosystem for communication?
Yeah, but the real advice is to pick a protocol (mesh) and stick with it if you can. You’ll have a much better experience overall.
Depends. Sometimes yes (hue) sometimes no
do you use the zooz 800? any complaints or things to note? that'd be my first purchase because I think I have maybe only 2 Zigbee devices laying around
I don’t, I have an older 500 series right now from another mfg, but the 800 from zooz gets recommended by a LOT of people here. It’s what I’d upgrade to if I needed to.
ok sweet, thanks!
No problem!
this is also a long shot because i know wink has been dead since like 2016, but i have one of their stupid wink 2 hubs laying around. do you know any efforts to port those radios to ha?
i couldn't find any with some research and it seems like the HA integration has been removed for awhile
I’m not aware of any, no.
I thought they shut everything down.
But it’s been a minute since I’ve looked at that stuff
i think literally as of rn, they're still limping along lol
need some more help: i have 4 speakers in my ceiling from the previous owner (i'm not an av guy, but 2 in front 2 in back). i see mostly where they terminate. i don't think i intend to use a projector with these speakers because that's what they're oriented for and i would just use them for home audio. would the simplest solution to get these speakers in HA be a networked avr or is there something more affordable?
i also already have an avr, but it's pretty old. not sure if i'd be able to retrofit it with some networking stuff? it's an onkyo ht-s760 (these aren't the speakers that are currently in the wall, i just picked these up for free)
Do you know what streaming method you want to use? (Google cast, airplay 2, Bluetooth)
Or do you want to just play music off a hard drive or something
i kind of wanted all capabilities. i've been playing around a little with music assistant although my current speaker setup is a little unsupported. i had planned to at least use spotify through some sort of casting and jellyfin. afaicu music assistant creates virtual speakers that unifies the different protocols. i think airplay and google cast are preferred due to the perfect sync capabilities
long winded way of saying google cast and airplay are preferred, bluetooth probably not
So I bought a few zigbee light switches today, thinking that the home I was going to put them in (being that it is only 2 years old) would have neutral wires. Turns out, not really. And the same brand does do a no-neutral version, but it appears to use a capacitor wired in parallel with a load, supposedly at the light itself.
Small problem. The fixtures don't appear to be resident removable (or they're at least stuck in stupidly hard), so I can't get to the wiring to put the cap there.
So the ask is: does anyone have recommendations for (relatively speaking) inexpensive US specced single gang zigbee switches? Very fine with Ali Express/Temu/Bangood
Hoping one that has the cap built into the switch so I don't have other spare parts dangling around (i have a Cync Wifi dimmer switch that does that, but ... ew)
Right on. So you can get something like a Yamaha AVR that has built in airplay, use your legacy (existing) AVR with an external airplay device (if you can get the old AirPort Express from apple (used) it has a 3.5” audio plug and supports airplay 2. I currently use a combo of these solutions. A company called WiiM also has a small form factor amp that has airplay 2 and I think google cast ability— I’m planning to get a couple of these later this year for the same use case you’re describing.
In all honesty, unless you’re playing music from a local source the above is fine (and doesn’t need to be integrated to be great), if you want to add local sources something like “music assistant” is great to manage/play music with. They have a dedicated discord (link is on this page) https://music-assistant.io/support/
Super in depth recommendations, thanks for taking the time write that
Happy to help! Good luck.
I use the ShineWifi. Just curious why you don't want to use the logger with the integration?
I'm yet to install the inverter but based on my experience with SRNE, the follow come logger tends to log data in a 5 minutes interval.
The current DIY dongle I have with esp32, logs data within 5 seconds.
Someone shared this to me.
https://github.com/OpenInverterGateway/OpenInverterGateway
I have a Sonoff ZBMini (https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/ZBMINI.html) recently installed. It flashes green. I cannot get it to show up, at all, in z2m. I have turned off the power to it to make sure it is in pairing mode, with no success. I've put another Zigbee device next to it, which has 200 linkquality, so that's not the issue. Z2M is in pairing mode. Any ideas?
Integrate your SONOFF ZBMINI via Zigbee2MQTT with whatever smart home infrastructure you are using without the vendor's bridge or gateway.
Can anyone recommend some zigbee smartplugs with energy monitoring? Also preferably acting as a repeater?
I am based in the netherlands
Innr do an awesome non-power monitoring plug
The power monitoring one may spam the mesh
I am just starting out so I don't have many devices and not planning to expand anytime soon. Will it still matter? I have 20 devices
No
afternoon guys... this might be unrealistic... but just wondering... I'm wanting to improve my basic tv's sound.. so I was thinking of getting a cheap soundbar... I was wondering if there were any I could also use with HA as a meda_player? and control.. ie: pause audio to play an alert or something...
I have a Vizio sound bar that has smartcast and it wasn't too expensive. I think I paid something like $400 US for it? Not bad sounding (a little bass-y though) and works with the Vizio integration in HA.
@atomic ridge Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
at least from my experience the power output does not vary much in 5s, in the whole day it is pretty much very predictable. unless you need it for some super responsive automation. then it will depend a bit on your requirements.
Is $400 cheap for a soundbar now?
Compared to something like the Sonos Arc or equivalents? I would say yes.
do you all know of any temperature sensors I could use for an ice bath?? Fine with WiFi, Zigbee, or Thread (if that somehow exists already)
I've seen a few for the freezer, but I don't think that's exactly water proof.
I can get a cheap bluetooth soundbar in the UK for about 60-70 quid.. lol... https://www.currys.co.uk/products/majority-bowfell-plus-2.1-compact-sound-bar-black-10243829.html is 2.1.. with aux in and bluetooth... thats what I was thinking "cheap" wise... but not sure if it'd work with HA.. has bt so I can't see why not.
I was thinking.. aux in from tv.. and use it's bt for HA to announce to it... but I'm only guessing
which has hdmi
its a cheap 130 quid 42" hisense tv.. am not going to spend too much on it.
what does everyone think about the beelink eq12 vs eq13 ?
Yeah, I need it as much detailed as possible.
The most recommended piece of hardware I've seen is the beelink n100, and most describe that as overkill.
CPUs look broadly the same
one is 6 watts, the other 25 watts, better cooling on eq13, but internal power supply (not thilled about that)
is that the n200? the listing called it "alder lake-n100"
@worthy oracle what did you mean in this message? #general-archived message
Sending phone location to HA?
I'm sorry, I was speaking about things that I was thinking without actually saying them lol. I was sending that message with the foregone conclusion that I needed to buy an apple watch.
but your galaxy watch solution is nearly perfect.
one is the n100 one is the n200, alderlake is just the generation of processor
glad I asked you, here's the listing
them having the wrong stuff in there doesn't help lol
so here's a question, can you underclock the n200?
run it cooler, perhaps get a longer life out of it...
A galaxy watch LTE is basically an android phone
And afaik you don't need a separate phone plan
And even the non LTE version that i have is like a phone without celular
It uses either wifi, or a bluetooth link to your phone for internet
I think I would need a separate phone plan. I plan on letting the kid have their own number to be able to call me.
if it's anything like the apple watches, you can usually do an add-on plan for like 10 bucks a month
you can have a separate number, or the same one
but then the kid would get my calls.
Yes
and you can't call the phone from the watch then
Either way
The kid needs a phone with a plan, and the galaxy wear app installed
I have spare android devices. I'm mostly interested in being able to use it in an android ecosystem, preferrably with HA.
The pixel watches (even the LTE ones) only operate as an extension of the phone, but good to know the galaxy watch should work.
You can
Basically all sensors you get from an android phone, you also get from the watch
Galaxy watches are also an extension of the phone
But you can use them if you leave your phone home for example
with the pixel watch you have to have the phone online for certain services to be routed through the phone apparently. Kinda defeats the purpose of an LTE watch.
The purpose of LTE is to have any sort of connectivity besides bluetooth to the phone
I nave no idea if samsung also routes stuff through the phone
Yeah, that's what I'm mainly interested in.
Worst case you jusy keep the phone you paired the watch to in a drawer
currently using a Surface pro 4 as a Dashboard, but with prime day was thinking of moving to a fire tablet and FK. Just had a couple of questions:
Should I go with the 10 or 11?
best way to keep charging tendered?
I do have always on phones sitting in my homelab already for other reasons, so I would just use one of those.
I'm pretty sure that you can use a galaxy watch without a phone after initial setup.
For most stuff, yes
I don't know about calls, but probably yes
Also
What do you use the phones in the home lab for? I have a lot of old androids
Are fire tablets the cheapest? Or do you need some amazon specific feature?
photo upload mules. They are original pixel devices.
Do you have any advantages of uploading photos using those phones ?
they are not the cheapest. but everytime i ask the community 90% suggest the fire tablet??? im just trying to find something that will work smoothly and have basic festures like wake when you walk up and easy way to manage battery overcharge
I dont know about the battery
But the wake up when you walk to it function is thanks to an app called fully kiosk
That is what I meant by FK in my original post. '
..unlimited photo storage? Thanks for the idea
And video.
Would love to help but sadly i have no knowleadge of fire tablets
Damn...should have goten a pixel myslef instead of a samsung
The 7a looked good
It doesn't work with the 7a
the original pixel (and XL version) phone released in 2016 are the only phones that have unlimited storage "for all photos and videos uploaded from the device"
Gonna have to look for some second hand ones
only the compression applied by the phone at the time of media file creation.
raw photos are not backed up
Damn
That's a good way to store photos
The only issue is that the batteries start to swell and I have needed to replace them on each of my two devices. That's just a symptom of leaving them plugged in all the time. Some others have figured out a way to use a power supply soldered to parts of the battery control circuitry to eliminate the battery.
Any good HA hardware on sale for Prime Day?
Govee 10m & 20m LED has 40% discount
Nice! Thank you!
WiZ light 2 pack for $11. Normally $20+
Wiz bulbs suck 😉 (Kidding obvs)
I suppose they are translating the watts to "regular" bulbs, not that it is 60w LEDs?
Yeah, they usually have "equivalent" stamped on the box somewhere.
But for the price... the Wiz bulbs are pretty damn good.
Yup
Or is it E27 with a little wiggle
The E27 is the 240V versions, I think.
You got any LED strips from Wiz?
sending 240V into a light socket seems insane
Nope. I only have like 4 light strips around the house and those are all Aqara T1s. I've been meaning to try a couple of Wiz strips, I just have no place to really use them.
It's called light not dark ;D
Huh... interesting https://www.waveformlighting.com/home-residential/e26-vs-e27-bulbs-are-they-interchangeable
Common Myth: E26 and E27 bulbs are only different by 1 mm, and are therefore interchangeable. However, doing so may increasing the risk of electrical fire or short circuits!
They are 130 euros for 2m to Sweden :<
Gonna try the Govees
The Aqara strips? Yeah, they're pricey, but I love the output on them.
I avoid the Govees because of their stupid API limitations.
LOVE the RGBIC concept, but otherwise, I found them to be dimmer than the Aqara ones and half the time when they should be local, the call went out to the their API.
Yup. That exactly.
Plus the Aqara T1s are Zigbee3.0 and routers, so that helped my decision as well.
Any zigbee lights on sale?
Probably will be grabbing a roomba, that 50% off is great
Does anyone know of smart G9 bulbs that works with HA?
Or are they simply too small to fit a brain in
Looks like Sengleds are on sale... but I don't usually recommend them very much.
Just checked some prime day deals....damn stuff's cheap
Do you need a prime membership to get the deals?
So, these are probably Tuya (no... just no), but maybe something like this? https://a.co/d/3juIssv (Yup... They're Tuya WiFi)
Yup. You have to be a Prime member.
Thanks, yeah found a few that actually deliver here, but it gets very expensive fast (I need about 20). Probably better off getting a couple of smart switches. But I need an electrician for that...
It's not that hard to install most smart switches yourself if you're comfortable with that
Yeah, I can imagine. You'd think in 2024, worldwide delivery would be universal.
I'm on the fence...Aqara U100, or Schlage Connect Smart Zwave? 🤔
(both are the same price for Prime Day - U200 sadly not on sale in Canada)
Add the Schlage Connect smart deadbolt to your Z-Wave smart home or security system (sold separately) to control and monitor your lock from anywhere. Never wonder whether you left the door unlocked again – just open your smart home systems mobile or web app to lock it remotely. Comes with secure ...
Not allowed by law unfortunately, at least if the insurance should be valid. (You can switch a dimmer to a dimmer, and a switch to a switch, but not a switch to a dimmer... 🤷♂️ )
Schlage ZWave would be my choice. IIRC, the U100/U200 still require the Aqara hub (I think).
Damn
Never heard of such law. What country?
IKEA 🇸🇪
lmao that's the first time I've heard someone use IKEA as a country... Well played! 🤣
"What country do you live in?"
"Guns"
"Ahhhh, the US"
🤣
"Tea"
This is how I'm going to refer to the UK from now on. Totally stealing that. lol
.
Should I go for it? 👀
How well does Nest Thermostat work with HA? Would I be able to control it locally or does it have to go to the cloud?
And is something like this going to allow me to use the same automations and sensors that a local thermostat would?
if its barnd new
Cloud based AND subscription based. I'd pass, tbh.
You have to have a subscription to Nest?
Wait $5 a month??
That I'm not sure about. I think it's a year, but honestly, I don't know. I have an Ecobee.
it's a single $5 fee
grumble grumble Google fee rabble rabble 🙂
Ahh okay
What's the 15 minute retention subscription stuff?
Sorry for all of the questions, I'm very new to HA
Ask LOTS of questions... that's why we're here!
But, I'm going to let someone with Google experience answer. 🙂
Thank you!
That just means that the Google pub/sub API's only retain messages for 15 minutes - but for our purposes, we dont really care
Cheers!
So if I got a Google Nest thermostat, it would be a one time $5 fee and then I wouldn't have to pay anything else?
I don't recall paying a subscription to Nest to use the thermostat via app or HA, but I am prepared to be wrong 😂
Does anybody know if the Nest sends the current temp and humidity and such to HA?
But I have two of them - and in my new house, I am NOT going with Nest
It does, yes
Yeah, I am leaning towards the Schlage. I give up the convenience of Home Key or fingerprint, but no vendor lock into the Aqara hub or app, and I can manage the codes through Zwave. S2 security too
Why's that?
Cause they are expensive and require a cloud connection. No thanks
I bought them years ago when I didnt know any better 😂
Although in your case, for $50...that's tempting lol
That's what I'm thinking too haha
Otherwise I was going to buy a Honeywell T5 refurbished for $60 🤔
Can't decide
What is the cheapest android tablet you recommend for a dashboard?
200$ fire tablets seem a bit expensive for me
Refurbed Fire tablets are usually a lot cheaper.
Oh nvm
Amazon.de doesn't ship fire tablets to romania
Weird since I got way bigger stuff shipped from there
Wait didn't Google add Matter support to the Nest?
Couldn't I control it locally via Matter?
Hmmm
The Nest Hub Gen2 and the Nest Hub Max (not available everywhere) are Thread border routers
Interesting
But I also heard the Google Nest has Matter support too
Can anyone confirm?
Yes, some models have #thread-archived radios
According to Google, the following devices are Matter hubs (not all include Thread):
Google Home, Google Home Mini, Nest Mini, Nest Audio
Nest Hub (1. Gen), Nest Hub (2. Gen), Nest Hub Max
Nest Wifi Pro (Wi-Fi 6E)
Matter doesn't require any extra dongles or anything for the computer running HA, right?
#matter-archived doesn't, but #thread-archived may depending on what you have
Check the pins in those channels
You can imagine Matter to be the language and Thread the way of communicating (e.g. phone, email,...)
Hello, I am looking for a swimming pool thermometer to integrate into home assistant (if possible via zigbee), and to my great surprise I cannot find what I am looking for.
Do you have any products to recommend to me?
I'd probably go for the Ecowitt one though, as I already have the weather station: https://shop.ecowitt.com/collections/water-temp-sensor/products/wn36
Features Poolthermometer with an anchor. None opening design with ultrasonic body welding: IP68 waterproof. Idle mode for further powerreduction (keep pressing the button for 8 seconds). Minimum operating lifetime: 3 years. User-selectable channel number up to 8 channels. Specifications Measurement Range Accuracy Resol
Should i buy this fire 7 for 10$ ?
Do you have any other details on it? Chances are that for $10, it's going to be really underpowered to use as a dashboard.
yea, found a fire 10 gen 9 for 22$
think i'm just gona order this
has android 9 which is nice
Hey does anyone have a recommendation for some hardware to measure temp and humidity with probes at two locations? I want to pop some holes in my ducts before and after my furnace/AC/air handler to be able to see what I am doing to the air and compare before conditioning and after conditioning.
something zigbee would be my preference, and with remote sensors so I can keep the radios out of metal ducts.
for something that specific I'd recommend an ESPHome device if you're comfortable with some DIY
an esp8266 board+two DHT sensors and some wires could cost you below 5$
Got it for $40 😎
Will let you guys know how it works with Matter and HA.
Yeah I've got a stack of WT32-ETH01 and WESP32 boards already. Plus points for making it PoE. What's a DHT sensor?
oh lol I have some of those already from an arduino project fro 10 years ago.
You'll need to offset them btw
do you all know of any temperature sensors I could use for an ice bath?? Fine with WiFi, Zigbee, or Thread (if that somehow exists already)
I've seen a few for the freezer, but I don't think that's exactly water proof.
Posting again just because it mayhave been burried
do you mean offset in the physical sense or offset as in calibrate them to a known reading?
Some of us say "California" 🙂
number:
- platform: template
name: DPS Temperature Offset
id: dps310_temperature_offset
restore_value: true
initial_value: 14.54
min_value: -70.0
max_value: 70.0
entity_category: "CONFIG"
unit_of_measurement: "°C"
optimistic: true
update_interval: never
step: 0.1
mode: box
``` you can make the offsets be changable in home assistant
I have seen some implementations of something like that in the Apollo Automation AIR-1
that's where i stole the code from
are you the guy from the ticket system w/ the zehnder?
Anyone play with interfacing to these fake nixie-tube clocks? - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCJ8W6B2 - I do not own one, do not have any reviews, and google search failed on the first pass. They look like they have wifi and are effectively 6x 1.5" ips displays 🙂
no
lol You're not wrong 😉
When traveling internationally it's a better answer
of course there are jokes about american's traveling internationally somewhere in there also
but will leave that for another discord 🙂
oh the DPS 310 doesn't do humidity as well, that's a shame.
it would be neat to see pressure differential that the fan adds.
i was using that as an example you would just use bme280 or w/e
or sht45 maybe
we dont travel we eat hot chip and lie
Easier to do it from within esphome
that_is_literally_esphome_yaml
which adds this to home assistant as a new number entity
which is able to be tweaked in hass.. without editing and recompiling
That makes sense
But i don't like template sensors
i dont like robots but i'd let them make me a sandwich
why does it matter if you like it lol it's easy to copy/paste and use in esphome it's just a better way
feels like it shouldnt be this complicated or need this many lines but it's not that bad
Any reason not to light up bare metal on debian?
beelink eq13 bought, will report on ability to run frigate
is that a new model?
not the 12 s pro or w/e
correct
it's still n100 what's different
and I thought it was n200, but n200 is optional, pretty sure i have the n100 model
power supply internal, beefed up cooling
$249?
I paid 209
pretty sure it was 209 yesterday, but might have been 219 yesterday, can't remember and it's "amazon scam day" today