hardware-archived

[cold moon]

i have no say in that 😛

[acoustic yoke]

😊

anyway, thanks for the advice. I appreciate it going to order some S31

[cold moon]

S31 Wi-Fi don’t accidentally get the zigbee ones

[acoustic yoke]

SONOFF S31 Lite 15A Zigbee Smart Plug

?

Oops

Glad I checked. Those are the wrong ones that sounds like.

How do they communicate back home assistant

Not sure if I have anything working solely with Wi-Fi. Everything is the old Zwave still hanging around and Zigbee. Guessing you flash them to ESP home and that answers all the problems am I right?

[cold moon]

https://cloudfree.shop/product/sonoff-s31/

Preflashed version available otherwise you solder onto tiny pads or use alligator clips

https://digiblur.com/wiki/devices/plugs/sonoff_s31/

If you search here you’ll find my pictures and yaml

[acoustic yoke]

i can flash then I have a good big magnifying glass and a lot of light

🙂

[cold moon]

The pads are tiny I did it the hard way 8 times

[acoustic yoke]

is it 3.3 V on VCC

[cold moon]

You need an ftdi adapter ideally the blue ones

https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-Adapter-FT232RL-Compatible/dp/B07BBPX8B8

[acoustic yoke]

yes i have those already

cloud free is $52 for 4 and amazon is $34. Im old and retired and nothing to do so might as well try. I think cloud free says are on backorder .

[acoustic yoke]

I guess I want to flash the plugs with ESP Home?

[warped slate]

I am attempting to use the 3.5mm out on my Home Assistant Yellow, but alongside the actual audio I am trying to play, it outputs a steady buzzing tone. It stops when I unplug the yellow and I don’t get this tone when unplugged or plugged into another device. I tried another power supply to no avail as well. Anything further I can do?

[acoustic yoke]

i’m not familiar with that device, but very familiar with audio systems. You might want to make sure you have a good ground. If the ground is lifted, you’ll get a 60 cycle humm or a buzz. I would check to make sure there’s a good ground everywhere on your cable, etc.

[golden thorn]

The yellow's PSU itself has no ground if that matters: https://yellow.home-assistant.io/power-supply/
There's also those ferrite core things. Just rotating the plug can also help.

[cold moon]

Any pi is gonna sound like crap without a DAC

And in general using the yellow for audio out just ain’t it chief

[solid holly]

Didi you get an answer?

[hollow axle]

so i managed to get a box of these switches new for free. TP-Link Kasa HS220p3 dimmer switches. ive heard mixed reviews about them as it seems like newer versions were blocked from flashing tasmota on them? does anyone know if these might still work or if they are worth it?

[silver delta]

Guys, looking to set up a HA on my own, but i am lost in the technicalities. Are NVMe SSD worth vs SATA? I see a big difference in price

[cold moon]

Not for home assistant no

Your lights will turn on just as fast with a $40 ssd as a $200 nvme

[rare tinsel]

How big of a system are you looking to setup? I'm new to HA, but am running on a Raspberry Pi 4 with a 64GB microSD card.

My performance is solid

I haven't added a ton of integrations, I probably have about a dozen items connected right now and a bunch of virtual sensors through my Sense home energy monitor.

[cold moon]

It’s cheaper to just buy a used mini pc or spend a bit more on a new n100 based mini pc

[silver delta]

thanks! Actually saw one of your vids recommending m.2 SSD’s. Trying to fit everything on the HA Yellow. Looking to experiment to launch a biz here in Argentina

[cold moon]

I’ve only made 3 videos and decided it wasn’t for me must be another sellout

[silver delta]

you are right, names are similar

[cold moon]

I certainly wouldn’t be using the yellow to deploy for other people

[silver delta]

btw, is wifi necessary on the CM4? i don’t think so as it would be getting signal from ethernet and communicating with other devices via the wifi on the yellow board??

[silver delta]

why not?

[cold moon]

purely from a hardware standpoint and management, you could run something like proxmoxVE on mini pcs that you can remotely manage and fix if something goes wrong (you talked about selling these to people)

not to mention you could buy lots (like a big group) of used mini pcs or new or whatever and then put a sticker or something on them and they would be "your brand" devices or w/e

also cost and actual hardware speed is night and day

sourcing cm4 (underpowered tiny little piece of shit) and yellows (board designed for an underpowered piece of shit) with a zigbee/thread ($30 dongle) built in...

see where i'm going with this?

[silver delta]

i see. When you say mini pcs, what are you referring to? Cost is not a big deal, because the business is about becoming a home automation service provider, low volume, high margin. The remote management is something interesting, but i think this could be managed with HA plugins and a minimal cloud architecture to expose HA publicly, right?

[cold moon]

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=m910q&_sacat=0 these used or new n100 based mini pcs are a good option

[cold moon]

the second half.. no

picture this

something goes wrong and now haos is dead. you cant access the mini pc remotely cuz haos is dead

now what?

you gonna spend $200 sending a guy to go out there and manually fuck with it or swap with a different one restored with a last known working backup

or are you gonna remotely login to proxmox and fix whatever is broken with haos

you give the end user access to haos and you have access to proxmox to manage it

or barebone linux or w/e

it doesnt have to be proxmox but it would make sense

[silver delta]

installing it through docker on the pi4 would resolve this=

[cold moon]

Sounds like you’ve got it all figured out good luck 👍🏻

[glacial oracle]

More like free issues

[cosmic grove]

I have a roomba i3 plus… pressing the button on the top didn’t result in HA setting up the integration. I was taken to a page that said “The password could not be retrieved from the device automatically.” With instructions (or a link to them) on how to retrieve it.

Is this separate from the account password?

(I assume no, since I just tried it, but it didn’t work.) kinda confused as to what password they are referring to.

It looks like they want me to retrieve a password from somewhere in home assistant, but I thought I’d need to connect to the robot… (to clarify, HA found the roomba on my network, found the ip and the name I gave it… it just couldn’t configure.)

[glacial oracle]

that sounds more like an #integrations-archived question

they likely know whats up with roombas

[rare tinsel]

is there a place for recommended hardware that is fully or mostly compatible with HA?
For example, if I'm looking for replacement light switches to control my kitchen lights that can work independently and be controlled remotely, where should I look?

[glacial oracle]

This chat is a good starting point, as well as the integrations page

[nocturne trench]

Obdontnknoe Hello
I hope this fits here

I am looking for a display that simply shows me an entity status.

For example, there are skylights in my daughter's room on the third floor. She regularly forgets to close them, so water damage is inevitable...

My solution is window sensors, but my wife would like to see at a glance at the door whether all the windows are closed without having to switch on the tablet.

Is there a simple way to display this? I'm already thinking about using an LED matrix, but it could be much simpler.

I am not a programmer so it should be a finished project that I only have to change a little.

Many thanks in advance

[glacial oracle]

if you dont want to #diy-archived something you could also just mount a cheap android tab close to your door

[nocturne trench]

The Tablet is 3 metres around the corner and takes too long to turn on for my wife. Don't ask😉

[fringe crater]

Inovelli light switches can be popular for this, as they include a large customizable LED that you can change the color of on the fly for various status indicators.
Also zooz, but to a less extent as their led is super tiny and harder to see.

And as they're wired in you don't need to worry about outlets or powering it.

[glacial oracle]

That sounds pretty interesting

[nocturne trench]

Wow thats a cool Idea, there ist a light Switch near the door. Just a replacement nice!

[cold moon]

an automation notification reminder with a window sensor that is triggered by whether it's raininng or not would also be a good idea

in addition to an led strip or smart switch with status led

[merry trail]

I want to do a wallmount screen either by using the app or web browser, what is a cheap option? Don't want to drop a $100 on a screen for the wall. I know people say not to use a tablet with a battery due to swell and wondering what other options. I have a raspberry pi4 1gb to mess with, also heard that screens are not worth it for those either.

[heady ingot]

What is one supposed to do when SkyConnect randomly reports that it can't connect to the port?

Mine just started reporting this out of no where

[cold moon]

Fully kiosk browser on used android tablet or cheap fire tablet

The battery thing is fine until it isn’t. I’m not personally worried about it. Common option is let battery drain to 20 then charge to 80

[cold moon]

#zigbee-archived

[heady ingot]

thanks

[cold moon]

Then 3d print a mount or buy an mbmount

[sudden narwhal]

Pro tip, if one of your temperature sensors is reading really high in both temp and humidity, and you can't find it, it's in your pocket.

Thanks for your time.

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/bnqr0.gif

[merry trail]

Would you think doing a smart plug to turn off power and let it drain for a few hours then power back on to fully charge?

[cold moon]

what i do (technically i dont cuz i'm too lazy to run the ethernet) is use a splitter from ethernet to usb-c

and then just unpower the switchport (it is a unifi switchport able to be controlled via home assistant)

i set my shit up and never mounted it on the wall cuz i gotta go in upstairs attic and crawl and i dont wanna

[acoustic yoke]

I have a brand new Zigbee light been working for the last three weeks since I put it in all of a sudden it’s off-line. I’ve turned this switch off and on on the wall just try to make it go again and it didn’t seem to make any difference. I guess they could just die but that’s pretty sad. It’s only three weeks old. is there someway to make it go back online?

[glacial oracle]

Did you try resetting it?

[young socket]

I use Linux, MacOS and Windows (Windows only at school cause school hardware uses it) and was wondering, would a CH340 or a CP2102 make more sense to me if I'm going to be mainly using a unix-like system?

[glacial oracle]

From what I've heard both are available for all systems

[opal compass]

Anyone tried Athom light bulbs before?
Ones something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003918275579.html
I'm doing a bit of browsing, for something that'll go in a 2-3 lamps around the place, but the options I have here in Aus are a bit limited
So I was thinking that getting Athom might be a good option since it uses WLED

[thin oxide]

Anyone have any advice on putting a smart relay on an extractor fan in a bathroom?

I've installed a Shelly 1PM plus on mine, I can toggle the fan on and off from the Shelly interface and Home Assistant but the physical light switch connected to the SW on the shelly won't work. Shelly seems to always be reading the input as on

[glacial oracle]

That sounds like it's not wired in properly or it's a dud

[drifting grove]

Soooooo is the only option for curtain openers Switchbot or DIY?

[ornate leaf]

Do switchboy curtain openers need the hub if you have HA?

[fringe crater]

No they integrate with any generic bluetooth adapter. (e.g. esp32 ble proxy)

I have one I like it.

[tender meadow]

Hi,
I have a rp3+ and just bought a rp4+
Can I just swap the SD from the old and put it in the new?

[stone minnow]

afternoon folks. looking at replacing my smartthings hub and it appears the only combo zwave/zigbee USB stick is pretty dated. i haven't kept up to date on thread/matter or anything protocol-wise, but i'm starting to dive in now. any hardware hubs/sticks you'd recommend or avoid?

[oak vortex]

running my instance on M920q

overkill for HAOS? Yes. Do I care? Also no.

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/btb2n.gif

i have one with proxmox on it as a test box

[oak vortex]

proxmox and HA shouldn't mix

not if cluster mode

think controller

[orchid escarp]

why not? I have HA in a docker swarm the container migrates where it needs to 😉

[oak vortex]

So where's the zigbee controller plugged in

[cold moon]

you dont use a zigbee PoE coordinator?

do you even zigbee PoE coordinator bro?

[oak vortex]

Oh, fancy bois 🙂

[devout parrot]

I have one, it's pretty good.

[cold moon]

they are sengled bulbs flashed to wled, they are decent but not the best in terms of "a good smart bulb"

like i wouldnt buy 20 of them but a few sprinkled around for a decent rgbw-cct bulb and advanced wled effects and syncing and all that.. definitely a decent buy

better than $50+ for a (better) zigbee hue rgbw bulb

[oak vortex]

I recently stumbled over Emos (Legrand sub-brand, tuya based) bulbs

cheap and decent

[cold moon]

yiques

we actively try to keep people from sticking their dick in tuya here man

[devout parrot]

Tuya bad, for WiFi stuff especially. Zigbee is a mixed bag.

[oak vortex]

I agree for sensors and switches

Tuya v bad

[oak vortex]

But like you said, a few bulbs sprinkled...

[devout parrot]

Nice.

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/byMbR.gif

^tuya owners be like

[orchid escarp]

In a RPi that runs the z2m, zwavejs-ui, and RTLAMR docker containers

like a sane person 😉

[cold moon]

i still prefer esp32 per device split up

a lot hinging on that pi not committing sudoku

[wild atlas]

Haos and proxmox for ultimate layers of backups, have the Google drive backup addon, then proxmox backing up the entire VM to my nas, which is then backed up to crashplan

[cold moon]

crashplan backed up to blackblaze which is backed up to s3 which is backed up to glacier right?

lmao jk

[opal compass]

Great info, thanks heaps! Sounds that's the go for these ones

[cold moon]

with wled integration you'll have to use this workaround: ### WLED RGB CCT Workaround for hass

You do not need to rollback to b5, just remove the CCT bus. CCT was not even supported in b5.
Edit: Also make sure White Balance correction is disabled if you get the error even though you don't have CCT busses!```

https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/issues/2500 it was broken here intentionally

a popular option is to not use the wled integration and instead integrate via mqtt

i've yet to play with that myself

[opal compass]

hmmmmm right - that feels pain, but good to know

actually, looks like I can get Sengled locally in Aus suprisingly, which it then uses Zigbee, which is honestly probably fine

[cold moon]

oh that's a huge mistake

[opal compass]

What would be the issue there?

[cold moon]

They break zigbee spec and aren’t repeaters and flicker on transition and colors look like shit

[opal compass]

Ahhhh yeah ok fair haha

[cold moon]

https://support.sengled.com/hc/en-us/articles/115010871308-Do-any-Sengled-Zigbee-devices-act-as-Zigbee-repeaters here’s them saying why their engineers thought it was okay to break spec

https://tenor.com/view/hey-little-kity-hows-it-goin-yea-gif-25852808

[opal compass]

welp, athom one should be fine, might just be an adventure doing that integration

[rare tinsel]

I'm new to Smart HOmes and Home Assistant. Do most smart hardware light switches, such as those I'd replace my current dumb switches with, work mechanically when the controller is not reachable? For example someone tripped on the power for the HA box.

[stone minnow]

yes

this is the primary benefit of smart switches over bulbs

[stone minnow]

@cold moon teach me, even if you have to charge

if i am not swarmgang, does this even benefit me over a skyconnect or some other usb dangle?

[cold moon]

Depends who you ask

[stone minnow]

i see a lot of reviews praising how they can put this in the middle of their house, but who cares as long as you get to a couple devices. is that not kind of the point of a mesh

[cold moon]

The less hops the better in general

And no usb 3.x or other forms of interference

And decoupled from hass for super advanced failover (unneeded) but nice to be able to manage it separately imo

[stone minnow]

i am a sucker with a smartthings hub, so my network never goes down when i'm farting around with HA. with usb (and especially with docker), does restarting the host or the container jack up the mesh?

[cold moon]

Restarting hass itself (core not reboot) doesn’t restart addons like z2m but does restart zha

Idk about jack up the mesh tho it’s fine to reboot host or whatever

If you’re using the same chipset I guess technically the ones going serial over the network could be slower. Mine lives next to my server stuff in network closet so it just hits the same switch my hass box runs to

But I’m not sure if there’s some added benefit over haos not touching it and z2m accessing directly by its IP

[stone minnow]

any thoughts on zwave?

[cold moon]

I like zigbee and zwave both

[stone minnow]

ST shows my devices about 50/50

but i don't see any poe zwave boys

[cold moon]

Look harder

https://tubeszb.com/product/z-wave-poe-kit/

[stone minnow]

This kit does not contain a Z-Wave radio! very cool

[cold moon]

Unfortunately at this time the recommended zac93 zwave controller shipping from zooz can’t do an nvm restore so you’ll have to re join everything like new.. or upgrade the controller then you’re on a fw that has bugs

So tldr start fresh if you do go this route don’t update that fw unless Al calzone tells you to and no one else (he’s the zwave js maintainer and works at nabu casa)

[cold moon]

He sells the esp32 you put it on… he said it makes more sense than to have to support a device he doesn’t make or have any control over

[stone minnow]

or

$30 for a skyconnect + $30 for a zooz 800

[cold moon]

Cool

[stone minnow]

and fart around with passing them through to containers and hoping they never change IDs

well i've got some stuff to chew on. thanks for the insight

[tight arrow]

Is a Dell Optiplex a good option to run HA?

If so, which ones should I be looking at?

Thank you

[cold moon]

USA?

[tight arrow]

UK buddy

[cold moon]

Rip

Your used market is expensive

You might be better off buying a new n100 based mini pc like the beelink ones

I helped a guy in Germany find a link yesterday for like $150 and it’ll handle home assistant and a lot more if you want to play down the road

[tight arrow]

I have a couple hundred in credit at webuy.co.uk

If I run HA, SAB, Sonarr, Radarr, Plex and a retro game system off one mini PC, I'd be over the moon as it would massively reduce my power consumption

[cold moon]

I’m not a huge fan of mini pc as a Plex server due to no pcie slots for an hba card to connect a bunch of drives.. but yes it could handle that

Idk how many 4k transcodes Plex can do on that igpu but probably a few and should be documented online

https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html this is probably your best route

Then a dockerhost VM or LXCs if you like those using something like ttecks scripts or diy if you’re comfortable with that

[old sinew]

Hey wondering if anyone had feedback on this from before? "Anyone find any nice thermostat option for geothermal systems that integrates well with HA without cloud dependency?"

[cold moon]

There it says login for free camera offer

[old sinew]

hmm already got the UDM SE, prob won't need that nvr

[cold moon]

Posted for another guy

Check out what dudes do with the nvr tho as a regular NAS cuz it’s just running vanilla Debian

Cute lil nas

[cold moon]

Add as much extra info as possible like what country and protocol(s) you can use etc

Budget

The answer is probably some niche zwave device

[old sinew]

Right now no system is installed, new build, no tstats finalized. Heat pumps are Bosch with a flow center. US based. I have been slowing reading through any tstat/geo conversations from before in the HA channels. Haven't found much talking about geothermal just referencing the geo side not the controls

[cold moon]

i'm not sure how different they are to give any advice sorry

are they using TRVs like they do in eu?

like little smart valves

[old sinew]

So open season on protocols right now

no Water-to-Air with forced air

Really just trying to get away from the honeywell options and cloud dependency since this is rural/country area and ISP outages happen often

[cold moon]

honeywell makes good zwave and zigbee thermostats tho

when i say good i mean basic but like.. programmable via zwave or zigbee config options

for flashy usually people go ecobee but im not sure what supports geo

any luck on forums / reddit? i havent seen geo brought up here much

[old sinew]

I'd wonder if HA went down would they still be capable of running a geo system

[cold moon]

or do you know if they are the same as regular thermostats needing a c wire blah blah?

[old sinew]

I asked on HA and honeywell reddits, didn't get anything

[cold moon]

the subreddit is hit or miss

either guys giving advice we would laugh at here or sharing some cool project we've never seen.. no inbetween

[old sinew]

Wiring available off the Bosch will be - Y1, Y2, G, O, C1, R

I'm excavating the horizontal field myself, and my HVAC installer is super on board, but he doesn't know anything past tstat installs, so I'm trying to find options

[cold moon]

is this going to have a ton of zones?

[old sinew]

3

No individual register controls or dampers, I designed the house to handle the hvac zoning efficiently so shouldn't need them with proper sizing

[cold moon]

impressive

[cold moon]

so as long as the thermostat supports these and 3 zones, you should be golden, no?

also any reason you didnt go with a mitsubishi? i've heard they are really nice

not to say bosch isnt but i've only heard bosch as good for appliances like dishawasher

[old sinew]

Ya what I'm finding out is that if the tstat doesn't have enough controls, it doesn't operate the low and slow modes of the multi stage pumps well.

[cold moon]

ah yeah

[old sinew]

Hvac installer is handling the spec out of those, have had positive experience with Bosch appliances and hvac before too

[cold moon]

little over my pay grade i dont feel comfortable giving advice like this since it's a bit important

[old sinew]

appreciate the responses

Are there zwave or zigbee tstats you remember people liking

[cold moon]

you dont really NEED multi zone from one thermostat tho

you can do 3 thermostats and control with hass

or w/e

[old sinew]

ya

[cold moon]

honestly ya honeywell T something or other had a bunch of options i think let me look

[old sinew]

I'll setup room temp sensors etc downstream

[cold moon]

T6 pro maybe

they arent that cute but if it has the stuff you need.. then you use a wall tablet to make stuff pretty

[old sinew]

I think I remember someone saying t9/10

[cold moon]

ya maybe

just gotta compare needed options

[old sinew]

Ya found it @runic drift was talking about it #the-water-cooler message

Non-macos user here, no apple devices with homekit on them. Is there a HA hack to run homekit from HA?

[cold moon]

are you talking about joining homekit devices directly to hass?

you can do two things, you can either "fake" being apple and pair homekit devices directly to hass over wifi via homekit protocol

or you can share any device that has no homekit "support" to homekit to allow for siri control / home app

[old sinew]

There's a few discussions on the T6/T9 you mentioned where you use homekit integration to control the them locally

[cold moon]

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/homekit_controller/ that's what this does

[old sinew]

got it, sounds like first option, fake it till you make it works with apple ☺️

[cold moon]

https://support.ecobee.com/s/articles/How-to-configure-your-ecobee-thermostat-for-use-with-a-geothermal-heat-pump

assuming the ecobee fits the bill, i'd personally go with that. i own one and like it a lot

https://www.reddit.com/r/ecobee/comments/10xuil7/geothermal_units_and_ecobee_is_it_worth_it/ maybe some good info here

[old sinew]

hm

[cold moon]

you can also buy their sensors and then it will "average" the sensors (if told to include them in the average)

but their sensors are $50 each and are kind of a terrible buy

the only reason you'd buy them is if you wanted HVAC completely decoupled from home assistant

their sensors have a temp sensor and a motion sensor that only resets occupancy after 30 minutes (so basically pointless as a motion sensor) and no humidity

vs a $20 temp/humidity sensor of your choice from zigbee/zwave

[old sinew]

just read the reddit. Ya but if hvac is decoupled from HA it's because there's a greater problem. So I won't use their brand sensors for specialty eco/learning/convenience since that'll be HAs responsibility. Ya I'm looking at the presence sensors

and then will get into the temp/hum inputs obv from better priced options

was looking at the ESPresence

[cold moon]

What presence sensors

The only thing ecobee id buy is thermostat

[steel prairie]

For anyone using or planing using HAOS on Sonoff iHost, please hold until the contributor to fix ethernet voltage configuration. The current one would damage the chipset and you will lost network capability. https://forum.ewelink.cc/t/more-hardware-information-of-ihost-for-helping-porting-haos/21641/92

[drifting grove]

This is REALLY good to know.
I need something that opens my son's curtains so he's not living in a dang dungeon but I'm not impressed with the way my switch bot plugs fit into HA. My hangup is me 🤷‍♀️

[drifting grove]

I'll put my strap on away- can you give me the dummy version of this?

I am working slowly on moving away from being Google dependent (because they took away my fucking bells!!! Argh!)

I have ghome/gosund switches and plugs all over the house and they actually have worked better with the tuya app than they did with the gosund app.

I don't think I'm to Tuya local level yet, but I was wondering if you could give me the dummies summary of what and why I'm avoiding (lagging networks? Bloat/spy wear?)

[drifting grove]

I have a Honeywell thermostat and a 1993 build house.
Upstairs got fried by the wiring because this house has some weird shit going on wiring wise (like, in the direction of my grandma's 1860's Victorian weird)

Downstairs one has worked no problems for 6~ years. It was actually one of the first "wifi connected" devices we installed.

I changed the wifi names/password last weekend and probably one of the "harder" devices to reconnect..
ONLY complaint is I can't get rid of our old thermostat from the app.

Could be user error, could be them.. last I checked (admittedly a long time ago) you couldn't get them off the app.

[cold moon]

tuya is a chinese company that either spits out shit or lets you pay them to spit out shit with their "smarts" in it and cloud only control with forced-local only hacked workarounds that break. the firmware they use for zigbee breaks protocol standards and requires quirks to get around them

just save yourself the time and dont touch anything that says tuya if you care about your time and sanity and want good shit

i most recently learned tuya mmwave sensors and power monitoring plugs on zigbee are sending 3 messages a second on a low bandwith mesh

that's bad

[drifting grove]

If I cared about time insanity I never would have had four kids... :p

[drifting grove]

How did you find out that information?

[cold moon]

#zigbee-archived message directly from the zha maintainer

[pulsar rivet]

hello i was wondering if this the place to ask about HA and network storage

[paper fern]

Hi Everyone, I am looking for a smart lock that works well with ZHA. My door lock style is a deadbolt with seperate thumb lever.

[hollow axle]

anyone know if these sensors are good or not? many are way cheaper on aliexpress vs amazon https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804829385719.html

[jovial verge]

What's a good tablet these days that isn't a fire tablet for wall mounting?

[cold moon]

Used android of your choosing I guess

Or a giant kiosk off alie

What’s wrong with fire tablet after fire toolbox 🧰 is ran on it

[jovial verge]

This one isn't holding a charge anymore

[cold moon]

Sadcat

[jovial verge]

Or will flatline and refuse to keep charging

I guess I could go back to leaving it at 100% spicypillow

[cold moon]

https://tenor.com/view/pc-load-letter-gif-26109504

[jovial verge]

When did they allow images outside of off-topic lol

[cold moon]

Shh

[jovial verge]

I suppose everyone keeps using fire tablets cuz they're the cheapest

But the last one I had couldn't do a lot with fire toolbox, they're pretty locked down now

[cold moon]

Mine is 2021 version I think? But apparently with a decent used android one you’re prob better off

[lyric mortar]

I was just going to try to set up a couple of Fire tablets this weekend. Is Fire Toolbox necessary these days? I think I’d planned to use Fully Kiosk based on some old blog post …

[jovial verge]

If you fully kiosk and block outside internet you can get away without signing into an amazon account, in my experience

[lyric mortar]

Sweet, will try that. Thanks!

[jovial verge]

I accidentially let my fire tablet onto the internet and it was aggressively trying to sign into amazon

[cold moon]

Mine is blocked out wan on iot vlan

It tries to hit Amazon servers and google dns

Even after fire toolbox

But fire toolbox is still necessary to remove ads on lockscreen and install google play store etc

Idk what all it rips out I used it and forgot it

[jovial verge]

I must have done that at some point to get fully kiosk it's been a long while

[acoustic yoke]

Has anyone integrated an infrared blaster into HA? If so, which one did you use?

[lyric mortar]

I’ve never used one so take this with a grain of salt, but a simple google search suggests a lot of people are happy with a Broadlink one

[cold moon]

https://www.reddit.com/r/kindlefire/comments/qk6hm4/how_do_i_set_private_adguard_dns_to_my_fire_hd_10/ looks like i finally got it to stop spamming my firewall trying to get out

    Set static IP address for WiFi
    Set DNS to my Pihole
    Got finicky by WiFi showing connected / no internet - this was solved by just toggling WiFi on/off
    Use Fire Toolkit to run ADB command `settings put global private_dns_mode off`

never been 10+ minutes without trying to get out lol

[sudden narwhal]

Is there any way I can leverage the hardware in this box (Zotac MA320) to better do Frigate stuff? In my config I kinda just set it to 1 CPU like the guide. Is there a way I can make it use the Integrated Graphics chip?

[cold moon]

what guide

tteck proxmox?

[sudden narwhal]

like the basic frigate install guide in their documentation. I have HAOS installed straight to the disk.

[cold moon]

oh

[sudden narwhal]

using the addon

[cold moon]

best to ask in #cameras-archived for anything frigate related

[lyric mortar]

Awesome, thank you so much for sharing - that'll help a ton!

[runic jacinth]

Hi Everyone, I'm locking for advice on smart relays that i can use behind my light switches that switch off both neutral ANS ground. it looks like the ones i have only cut one

not sure if any new matter switches are recommended

[winged knoll]

Your existing ones have three incoming wires, or just two?

You don't need cut cut both neutral and live, you need a switch that has it's own neutral wire

[tardy oyster]

Hello,

I had a pi 3 model b sitting around and installed home assistant just to try it out and now I'm hooked.

I'm looking for a dedicated HA device that is as power efficient as possible, run HA comfortably and be able to boot from an SSD (not USB).

I'm looking at a pi5 with 8gb ram with an m.2 nvme hat drive.

Is there anything better that can also rival the pi in power efficiency? I'm looking at ~5W idle, ideally 2-3W.

[winged knoll]

You probably won't get much lower without lower performance. I used to run an old i5 laptop which spent most of the time down around the 5W mark, but you'll be hard pushed to beat that.

[soft root]

Hello,
I have an MHCOZY 2 Channel Smart Switch Relay that I need some help with, wanted to confirm if this would be the place to ask before going further as it does not seem this switch works with anything HA Official (SmartLife & Tuya) or if there is someplace else recommended to go for assistance? I was just able to find this server through some forums that mentioned these switches here and there.

[cold moon]

mi scuzi?

[winged knoll]

Google says that's a zigbee device, so it'll work with either #zigbee-archived option

[soft root]

Thank you, I will take this to that channel for questions then.

[winged knoll]

Read the pinned messages over there too 😉

[runic jacinth]

they connect to both neutral and hot- black/white go in, go out and then two wires to a switch

i thought they used neutral but now im thinking no?

[winged knoll]

So, there's two wires to the switch, and three for incoming power and the light?

[nimble grotto]

So I have a zigbee 20A EU plug where my water boiler is in which is drawing 2600w. Whenever I turn off the plug, the boiler LED's start blinking like following before going completely off: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SYkZBCZqrEFS6SrG9
When I just pull the power cord out of the socket, the thing just shuts off and doesn't blink at all.
Can anyone tell me if this is bad for the boiler?

[runic jacinth]

I thought they switched both but here i am with this lonking lol

[hard tinsel]

Wired up a smart dimmer (SM323v2) and noticed that when the light is on, the voltage is reasonable, 242V, but when I turn the light off, it drops to something weird, like 80 or below. Is that normal?

[ember turret]

Is anyone using Firebat t8 pro from AliExpress? I don't know whether to risk it or buy beelink?

[hollow axle]

If I have a say 2 gang smart switch into a spot there's normally only a single switch, since there's no connectors to the other switches is it possibly to use them more like smart buttons? Something like this going into a normal switch outlet

https://a.co/d/g2VZAQV

[vagrant aspen]

well, I managed to get an esp32 running BT proxy and wireguard, and it connects to my hotspot -- and can ping back/forth.... but it doesnt seem to notice the Shelly BLU button being clicked

progress, at lease

least*

[weary stump]

@cold moon shoot I thought I hit hardware, my fault. I was reading wled and cct don't work great together. Has that been fixed?

[crisp crater]

Emporia Vue Gen 3

[cold moon]

Are you talking about the wled hass integration blocking rgbw-cct lights specifically?

You can ask in wled discord I’m not aware of any cct issues

I do rgb or rgbw addressable no analog or cct stuff for me

[weary stump]

I'm not fully sure as I'm not all that great with this stuff but I believe it is wled itself not working well with cct. There is a workaround for it that I need to look into.

What do you use for cct?

[cold moon]

I don’t I use addressable rgb

Why can’t you link what you think is wrong?

You can use esphome instead of wled if you want

Athom sells them or you can flash from wled to esphome

[weary stump]

Do you use RGB for white or just color? All I'm trying to do is add more light to my kitchen with above and under cabinet lighting

[cold moon]

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/397426163649216512/914682412099850280/video0.mov?ex=65f79261&is=65e51d61&hm=d00e4cf864c21b1f2c534f4703d68409bf1a247b48e14e2c2e516d6bee58603a&

Maybe

I should’ve used sk6812

But now there’s some 12v rgbw options I think

[weary stump]

I do think esphome works. I got a controller from amazon today. Didn't really know what I bought, thought it would work. Has an old version of wled on it, which I know doesn't work with cct at all. Been trying to flash the new version of wled on it for the last hour but have no idea why it won't work, which brought me here looking for a more plug and play option

That's a cool setup, I like it

[cold moon]

It’s usually just white ish

It looks good enough to me my eyes don’t know what high CRI looks like

I think it’s like audiophiles.. the less you know the happier you are

[weary stump]

No me neither. I just want something close to 3500k to match my led canless overhead and I'll be happy

Do you know the athom controller for cct that comes with esphome?

[cold moon]

Should be the identical controller flashed to esphome on their site

Or alie

[weary stump]

Ok, I'll take a look. I'm going to work on trying to flash the newest one to mine but I'll probably just buy the athom if it comes with it on it. I need a few of them

[pseudo stream]

Hello guys. I'd like to ask about your opinions and experience with a LED strip types used with WLED.
I have currently RGB+CCT strips controlled via zigbee controllers everywhere in my apartment approx 15 meters (7 separated strips) but I don't like the LED density here (even with difusor it's not perfect) and lack of RGB effects 😄 so I am thinking about switching to addressable strips controlled with WLED.
I am now basically at the point where I can't decide which strip type to go with. I guess SK6812 in WW variant would fit the best for my use case as the places where LEDs are located are basically chill-out zones but sometimes I would like to switch the light also to CW. Is it possible for the strip to handle this? Or anyone have some recommendations, real photos to share?

[winged knoll]

FYI WLED have their own Discord, plus DrZzs has a whole LED section - both of those are likely to get you a more WLED focussed bunch of answers

[rare tinsel]

What communication technologies are best for switches and sensors in my situation?

HA on Raspberry Pi 4
Small 2 story house with basement
Wifi throughout
110V - AC

Zigbee, Zwave, BLE, WiFI, etc.? I've been looking at some of the Shelly ones, are there other manufacturers with equivalent/better products for similar prices? TIA

[glacial oracle]

It comes down to personal preference for the most part

You likely want to go with either Zigbee or ZWave

Wifi/Eth is alright for Shelly gear but usually yields you more dud hardware which is cloud connected

[rare tinsel]

What sort of hub/dongle hardware do I need to support Zigbee or ZWave?

[cold moon]

zwave uses a zwave controller (usb dongle, pi hat, esp32 hat) - zigbee uses a zigbee coordinator (usb dongle, pi hat, esp32 hat)

cool kids use PoE coordinators which use esp32 over serial back to home assistant and can be placed centrally located in your home

https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p7-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/ i have and suggest this for zigbee

[glacial oracle]

Alternatively check the respective integration page for recommendation on what to purchase

[cold moon]

Yea out of date hardware and experimental options are also technically an option

[rare tinsel]

thanks

[torn summit]

I had a raspberry pi 4 to test HA, but i sold it now that the 5 is available. But since then i am now thinking about getting a mini pc or a nuc. What would you people advice me. I would like to do Voice aswel.

[cold moon]

Mini pc is a great option are you in the us of murica?

[torn summit]

in europe

west europe

[cold moon]

Ok so eu used market is ridiculously overpriced so your best bet is most likely a new gen n100 based mini pc such as the beelink ones

[torn summit]

i will be in NY in april for two weeks

[cold moon]

I found one in Germany Amazon for $170 but then some coupon

[torn summit]

thats a mini pc, is it the same as a nuc ?

and voice will work on a gen n100

so overal a beelink is a better option then the pi5

and do we get the full os on the intel based on, like we have de ha os for pi

hacs etc

[cold moon]

A pi5 is great for playing with things a pi is made for not a smart home server hardware choice

[torn summit]

ok thanks

and the os will be the same, i know when i used to run ha in a docker i couldnt install hacs

[cold moon]

Bare metal install of haos or virtualize haos as a vm in proxmox

The latter is preferred if you want to run other things on it and has a more useful ability to troubleshoot if and when things go wrong

https://www.derekseaman.com/2023/10/home-assistant-proxmox-ve-8-0-quick-start-guide-2.html popular guide if you aren’t familiar with it

[torn summit]

thanks

[torn summit]

if i want to do voice, will i be good with the beelink n100. atm i use Siri to control my lights, but i want to move over to my own thing?

[cold moon]

you should just read the docs for w/e you're referring to with voice or ask in #voice-assistants-archived

if you're asking if it can handle more than a pi, absolutely

[torn summit]

ok thanks

[vague tartan]

has someone showed any benchmark PI4 vs Pi5 vs popular mini pc (type I3 6-8gen)

[glacial oracle]

datasheets suggest its still not fast

with the pi4 being beaten by a c2d, maybe a c2q would be a match for a pi5

geekbench 6 says its 340/770/1200 for pi4/5/n100 single and 720/1600/3500 multi

the pi4 matched an E8600 😄

[fallow hazel]

Is Raspberry Pi 4 with 1 or 2 GB RAM enough for Home Assistant?

[glacial oracle]

It's a poor choice either way, but if it needs to be one of both, pick the 2Gb one

[cold moon]

i believe the docs specifically state 2gb or higher too

altho i did setup hass on a rpi 4 1gb whenever it first came out and was supported

[hard marten]

I have a question about smart plugs. I have four Shelly plugs that I use to turn on/off things like fans, a portable humidifier and a wax warmer (scent). I can track power usage with those as well as turn them on/off, but what I'm looking for is a way to track the power consumption to my fridge, microwave and toaster oven. The problem is that I live in an apartment and can't open my distribution panel to tap into the electrical.

I was hoping for plugs that didn't necessarily have on/off capabilities, just power monitoring.

For reference, I'm in the US.

[fringe crater]

You could put a CT clamp around a line splitter.

[cold moon]

Fridge will be fine with a smart plug but I’d expect plugs to fail with the other two

Whether you use the smart plug on off functions or not doesn’t matter

Just use the energy monitoring

[hard marten]

Why would they fail?

[cold moon]

#general-archived message

I was just talking about my setup

[cold moon]

Inrush current or sustained load over time too high

Assuming USA we have 15a plugs or less and they can’t really handle full 15a they’re just quoted as that

[hard marten]

Ok. I don't have that much experience with that stuff

[cold moon]

Ok

Fridge good, heater toaster microwave bad

[hard marten]

The other thing is that my electrical in this place is 80+ years old. If I want to use the microwave in the kitchen I have to turn off the window AC in the living room

[cold moon]

Is what it is

You’re probably on 15a circuits and that sounds like both are on the same

[hard marten]

Yep

As well as the bedroom

[cold moon]

And you would NOT want to use an extension cord because the length of cord and gauge of wire inside is important

Technically you could probably get away with a 10 gauge extension cord but I don’t like running them at max and them feeling warm or worse to the touch. Feels too firey

https://tenor.com/view/gordon-ramsay-idiot-sandwich-angry-mad-what-are-you-gif-4169547

That’s the electrician who ran the wires^

[hard marten]

I have a power strip just for the three outlets, but I never turn on the microwave or toaster at the same time

[cold moon]

Good

[hard marten]

That electrician is dead.

[cold moon]

That power strip is working overtime

Microwave and toaster should be straight to outlet imo

You can check how many amps each use

[hard marten]

I also have the fridge and stove (gas w/electrical ignition) in that same outlet

[cold moon]

I’m sure the stove uses nothing but ya

Are the outlets discolored if you remove the plugs?

[hard marten]

No

[cold moon]

Do the outlets have a little slit on the left side?

Like that

[hard marten]

No

[cold moon]

Ok then it’s 15a (or less) not 20a

If it’s 80 years old it’s probably a fire hazard in all the walls

Using cloth wiring that ignites

So that’s fun

[hard marten]

It is a fire hazard. The living room ceiling light sparked one evening and the whole apartment went out. Turns out the ground wire came loose

Took two days for the owner to get an electrician in

[cold moon]

I know it’s probably not feasible but you should move asap

[hard marten]

You're right on the first part

[cold moon]

Or find an electrician who will report it

And then the owner will be forced to come up to compliance most likely

Since you don’t know what you’re doing I can’t suggest you try to fix it yourself

[hard marten]

Well, to top that off, three weeks ago, I woke up to a hole in the window and a 9mm bullet in the living room wall

[cold moon]

I.e. re terminate all connections properly

My life sucks too I get it

[hard marten]

This is Chicago

Well, thanks for letting me pick your brain

[fallow hazel]

What would be the better choice?

[glacial oracle]

Buying an sff pc, either something new with an n100 from beelink or something used from offices like the dell/Lenovo micro systems

Or whatever they ate called

[agile olive]

I need to buy a speaker for my HA, ie, I want to have a speaker to have feedback on the local assist and every kind of project where I need voice feedback. On top of that, and only as a bonus, it could be also used to play music. I don't want to have Echo devices or similar that have microphones, that is a no-go. It must have aux-in also. Can someone suggest something for my case?

[warm olive]

I have this door interlock I am trying to automate with a relay and it keeps going off on its own. I added a FR107 diode in between but it didn't help

[proven imp]

Does anyone know how I could get an LCD running with HassOS? Something like the little 1" adafruit LCD.

Like this: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-pioled-128x32-mini-oled-for-raspberry-pi/usage

[terse pebble]

You won't get the software installed on HAOS. Not sure if an add-on could utilize the GPIO pins

[proven imp]

Is it possible running HA Supervised in a container?

[gloomy spoke]

No, it doesn't make any sense

[proven imp]

What doesn't make sense? Wouldn't HA Supervised be completely seperate from the rest of the machine?

[glacial oracle]

the task of the supervisor is to orchestrate the containers aswell as system behind it

it makes no sense to run such a setup

[proven imp]

but if it can't do anything else, not even run an LCD, it's kind of weak

[glacial oracle]

its simply not the task of the os to permit that usecase

[proven imp]

What if it's Linux running a supervised version, that's not the HA is not the OS

[glacial oracle]

its one way to get into a very bad mood on a regular because stuff will break

[proven imp]

haha, HA breaks all the time anyways 🙂

[glacial oracle]

we highly discourage people from running supervised installations besides haos

thats more of a you issue ;D

realistically you could just run ha through the docker and manage the addons you want yourself

[cold moon]

No it doesn’t

Maybe yours does?

[glacial oracle]

the images you get just are slightly preconfigured, there is no magic involved

[proven imp]

I lost both my Roombas during the last HA update....

All I did was click "update"

and all my lighting disappeared too

[glacial oracle]

consider opening an issue if that happens on a regular to you, but it usually is just a question of weird configurations and not giving it a full restart after

robot vacuums are however notorious for breaking the integrations

the respective gh page might know more about that, or #integrations-archived for that matter

[gloomy spoke]

It's not a regular issue for integrations to randomly break. And as suggested, file issues when you have issues

[proven imp]

So there is zero way to integrate the LCD is what I'm hearing. Huge bummer.

[gloomy spoke]

And it sounds like what you really want is a container installation where you manage whatever software you want

No, that's not correct

[proven imp]

Yeah that's what I thought might work, container for HA, one for the LCD basically

[gloomy spoke]

You can do whatever you want with a container install

[proven imp]

Could I not just install HA OS in a seperate container? I'm not a Linux guy

[gloomy spoke]

No

[glacial oracle]

no haos is an operating system

you could install it in a virtualized environment, but you would need real hardware for that

at which point there wouldnt be gpio pins for an lcd either

[proven imp]

real hardware as in a full computer

[glacial oracle]

real hardware as in not a raspberry pi

any system with an x86 related architecture of the last 15 years will do

more recent stuff allows fur much better efficiency tho

[proven imp]

All my other machines are for NAS

I can't see tieing up a full MOBO for something I can run on a SBC

[glacial oracle]

you dont have tho, that are the funny wonders of system virtualization

[proven imp]

but when you are running TrueNAS, its similar to HAOS, that is all I can run to my knowledge

[glacial oracle]

if your nas systems can run a vm, like either through whatever tools they ship with or by you adding a kvm install to it, you can run haos in it

truenas supports both vms and containers for what i know

https://www.truenas.com/docs/core/coretutorials/jailspluginsvms/virtualmachines/ might be limited to certain licenses in the future

[proven imp]

TrueNAS eats all of the RAM so you don't have much to play with. even on a 32GB machine I probably would only get 2 GB free

[glacial oracle]

you can modify the allocation or add more memory. 2gb will run haos just fine

there are options you might want to explore

but for the pi, either haos or the docker way is the one you should want to pick
supervised is a pain in the ass to a point where you just will hate yourself

[proven imp]

haha, I'm wondering if Google Home is just the best option 😉

[glacial oracle]

if you like a much more limited experience and hope they dont shut it down ;D then it might be

[proven imp]

I don't see how its limited. I have more of my IOT integrated there than I can do with HA

For instance MyQ, works fine with Google, they won't let HA use it though (MyQ's fault)

[glacial oracle]

its focused on wifi /matter connected devices from what i can tell
ha can talk with pretty much everything with its integrations, over zigbee/zwave to stuff like modbus

but if you feel this is enough for what you need, who am i to convince you ^^

[proven imp]

it doesn't work with MyQ unless something changed in the last 2 weeks

[glacial oracle]

they removed support for that in december for reasons stated in the blogpost

https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2023/11/06/removal-of-myq-integration/

[proven imp]

Yes, I'm aware unfortunately, lost both my garage doors and my gate

[proven imp]

Yeah, I don't use bluetooth or zigbee/wave. Modbus would be for stuff at work, haven't seen MODBUS outside of industry

[glacial oracle]

it seems to be not too uncommon for energy/consumable monitoring

[proven imp]

I haven't seen them off the shelf, my only energy monitoring has been ESP based and home build circuits

There was a 16 channel monitor I liked, but I have 3 sub panels so that would be a good chunk of change to guy

buy

[proven imp]

Yeah I looked them up and they are about 6x the cost of a wifi system. I was seeing $60 per clamp

[deft sphinx]

Can anyone tell me what type of bulb this is? Want to find zigbee compatible bulb replacements but I can't for the life of me read what size it is?

On the bulb, what I can read is:
E320663 5EL8 MYW
Ecosmart Compatible 1921ZF
ECSA1560WE950F
DME 12C1A

Note that any one of those letters/numbers may be incorrect because it's so hard to read. I tried googling various parts of it but I can't find the specific bulbs (most searches bring me to generic store pages listing bulbs which doesn't help)

[patent river]

Does the shape matter, or just the fitting?

[terse pebble]

Looks like an E12 or E14 on the first look

[agile olive]

i have a reSpeaker mounted on a Rpi Zero 2W. Can the output of the reSpeaker be used by the Pi Zero and so, output it in a wifi speaker?

[deft sphinx]

The bulb shape might matter a little, as they are for inside a ceiling fan and it doesn't have much clearance between the bulb and the glass

[patent river]

That was my thought too. Problem is the majority of Zigbee E12 bulbs are "candelabra" ones which are much longer.

For instance: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBSPYN6B/
Probably 2× the length, so likely unsuitable

[deft sphinx]

Length isn't as much of a worry, more thickness

But if it's e12 connection size I at least have that to go off of

[patent river]

Could roll the dice on something off-brand like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGJF6KZ2

[deft sphinx]

$30 for 2 and not philips hue...hrm don't know if that's worth it lol

[terse pebble]

Or a E14... hard to say without measuring

In Europe there is a E14 dimmable warmwhite Hue round-ish bulb

[deft sphinx]

what do i measure? i can take one off again and measure it

i'm in the US, not EU

[patent river]

No round E12 😦 https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/products/all-products?filters=FK_HUEWIRELESS_E12&page=1

Compare to UK E14 selection: https://www.philips-hue.com/en-gb/products/smart-light-bulbs?filters=FK_HUEWIRELESS_E14&page=1

[oblique harbor]

Is there an always on pressure sensor or scale type thing that can be plugged into power (no batteries) to use as a bed detection sensor for home assistant that I can place under my mattress

[terse pebble]

E12 has a screw part diameter of 11.5mm (0.45 inches), E14 of 13.5mm (0.53 inches)

[terse pebble]

The Withings Sleep Analyzer for example

Or DIY

But I don't know, if the Withings Sleep Analyzer gives live presence data. It would also be cloud dependant.

[deft sphinx]

ok i'll grab one and get my calipers

[patent river]

At least - presuming your HA is internet-accessible - the integration is push rather than poll
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/struggling-to-get-withings-integrations-fully-operational/405553/18

Looks like fairly involved setup, but can be made to update instantly

[deft sphinx]

oh yay, i can't find my calipers 😦

just moved into a new house and haven't fully unpacked

man it's not my day. found my calipers...battery is dead

but they have manual readings. 11.5mm, so it's an e12

[patent river]

I switched back to vernier calipers for exactly that reason

Digital ones seem to have dead batteries every damn time I go to use them

[glacial oracle]

i tend to order new calipers, those batteries are hella expensive ;D

[terse pebble]

I don't use calipers - just an "official estimation"

[oblique harbor]

I found a car seat pressure sensor off aliexpress for 3.55 including shipping

should work

[glacial oracle]

wonder why no one uses load cells on the frame contact points

[patent river]

The mk1 eyeball is the original - and still the best - measurement device.

[cold moon]

only with 20 years of practice

[spare rampart]

can someone help me with my problem about "ai on the edge"? I can't add my value entity in water usage 😦

[cold moon]

switching to english to get help from people that speak english would prob be a decent idea

[spare rampart]

„no matching devices found“

[vagrant aspen]

Well, still struggling to get a BT proxy to work over wireguard. I seem to have made things worse, as the wireguard node doesnt even show up in ESP Home's dashboard, and I have no idea why it stopped

[slim island]

a small air bladder and pressure sensor are much cheaper

[lavish fable]

I have 100+ LIFX downlights and other devices plus 22 LIFX switches. These all work fine using the LIFX and HomeKit integrations. I have just added one of the new LIFX Strings and while it's visible and controllable via the LIFX App, I can't seem to make it appear in Home Assistant. Has anyone else had any success?

[vagrant aspen]

Ok, so it seems to work when I test at home -- all my other bluetooth proxies are disabled -- if I unplug this one, nothing is seen. if I plug it in, and it connects to my phones hotspot, sets up wireguard, and then connects to HA over that, i can see the button presses. If I unplug it and take it accross the street and power it on down the block.... nothing is seen.

its like... somehting is leaking?

hmm

[raw gorge]

What may be a problem here, how to find which device is causing the errors?

[golden thorn]

Do you have so many USB devices plugged in? Use a SSH addon, run apk add usbutils, then try with lsusb -vvt to get more information.

[spiral thicket]

Hi, I'm having pretty big problems with my Zigbee network where all my lights freezes, I get error messages as "Network_busy: 161". I'm trouble shooting high and low and found I also get an error message saying "/addons/core_silabs_multiprotocol/start return code 400". So I'm trying to disable multiprotocol on my Skykonnect. However, I'm not able to. I follow the instructions on how to disable Multiprotocol only to end up with this (attached file). Im running the latest version of Skyconnect Firmware per of yesterday (2024-03-10) and Home assistant is updated. Does anyone know why I can't configure my Skyconnect?

[cold moon]

ask in #zigbee-archived

[fringe perch]

hi all, any recommendation on smart plug with power monitor which allow simple and easy integration into HA? At this time I just need to have offpeak\automation configuration (seems like can be done with any device) and remote restart (turn off\on) just in case hard restart is needed. I got kasa kp125m and not sure if its me or the integration is not the best... I spend multiple hourts its still does not cont power cost 😐

[cold moon]

tplink/kasa definitely aint it chief

https://digiblur.com/wiki/devices/plugs/sonoff_s31/ sonoff s31 flashed to esphome are great and you can buy preflashed at https://cloudfree.shop/product/sonoff-s31/

[fringe perch]

does it hard to flash? double the price looks interesting

[cold moon]

It’s a bitch to flash if you aren’t good at soldering or you can get the alligator clips but still a pain

I have 8 of them I did it the hard way

[fringe perch]

does $13 includes that usb controller?

[cold moon]

USB controller?

You talking about the ftdi adapter?

No you’d have to buy one too

The decent ones (blue in color) are around $10 on Amazon

They sell knockoff ones but the chipset is jank or something I’ve been told to just get the legit ones

And that’s what I use

https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-Adapter-FT232RL-Compatible/dp/B07BBPX8B8 this is what I have

[fringe perch]

hm I do have ATmega32U4 it but its 5v...

[cold moon]

You can prob do that I have no idea

This can flash at 3.3 or 5v iirc

I think I did 5

Whatever is in the tutorial I linked

Like it’s not plugged into the wall to flash it

[fringe perch]

make sense, thanks

[devout parrot]

Flashing is easy with test hooks ime.
https://a.co/d/4dNGhXL

[fringe perch]

I have iron and some breadboard cables so should not be an issue. Just need to find usb to com

[candid breach]

Anyone know of a place to buy/sell HA related hardware? Thinking like smart switches, plugs, bulbs, zigbee controllers, etc

Other than the usual suspects (eBay, FB marketplace)

[glacial oracle]

That very much depends on your location and preferences. A lot of gear can be purchased from various different sites. Some stuff is cheaper when bought on AliExpress/Alibaba directly as opposed through Amazon but that may vary for whatever product and brand you are looking for

[opal compass]

Anyone used rtl_433 to connect to weather stations before?
I've just booted it up and unsure if im doing it right, not g etting any data from what I can see so far

[tender flicker]

Hello all, Does any have any ideas for Hardware/method capable of monitoring US 240V (120V+120V). I currently use Kasa for my 120V current monitor(s) and very satisfied, but I need a method to monitor when the 240V dryer is running and complete.

[unkempt matrix]

has anyone managed to get an esp32 BT proxy to connect to a Renogy BT2 module?

[gleaming tapir]

There are a few 240v smart switches but they are usually packaged in outside enclosures and are made to be direct wired. In your case you’re probably better off with a power monitor that doesn’t have the relay (on/off) functionality.
https://www.shelly.com/en-us/products/shop/shelly-em-120a/shelly-em-50a

[mortal pollen]

hey! struggling with skyconnect getting multiprotocol to work. It was all working fine, then after a restart of my home assistant green all related integrations (openthread, zha) failed to initialize. I uninstalled everything and went back through the config flow in settings -> hardware -> configure skyconnect, selecting multiprotocol support.

it successfully reinstalled the multiprotocol addon, and i was able to reconfigure the zha integration. my zigbee network is luckily back and alive.

problem is thread. As far as I understand, the openthread border router integration should've automatically been added by the hardware configurator, but it doesn't appear. when I manually add it, it asks me for the thread border router API URL. What do i enter here?

in the thread integration, the border router shows up, but not getting any wiser from this

as far as i understand the openthread rest api port should by default be 8081, but i've tried values like localhost:8081, homeassistant.local:8081 etc. to no avail...

[glacial oracle]

It would be highly unrecommended to use multiprotocol with sky connect at the moment

You might want to consider moving this migration to a future date when issues have been resolved

[mortal pollen]

... so i ended up going to the thread integration configure page, and the multiprotocol thread network appeared there. after setting it as preferred, the openthread border router integration appeared suddenly

so all good for now. if i have any more problems i'm gonna probably get a dedicated zigbee dongle and get rid of multiprotocol. 👍

[glacial oracle]

👍 sounds like an idea

[tender flicker]

Question. Do the shelly devices connect to WiFi inside the metal breaker box? BTW, you are correct that I do not need switches. I just need something that HA will integrate easily to monitor usage.

[glacial oracle]

It depends on the properties of your breaker box I suppose. Personally I don't have connection issues with an em3 in mine but I also have an access point in the same room

[tender flicker]

Thanks. I hesitate because additionally, I know there is not a lot of room in there either. I will have to do research to determine physical size of the clamps. Well, I got a start for possibilities. Thanks!

[rare tinsel]

Is anyone aware of a sensor combination or setup that can measure the occupancy of a medium sized room? It doesn't need to be 100% accurate maybe +/- 2 with up to 10 people in the room. I'd prefer Z-Wave or Zigbee, but Wifi would be acceptable.

[winged knoll]

What's your budget? Because that's likely to be spendy

[gloomy spoke]

Seems like you want a camera-based solution

Frigate can count the number of people in a frame

[cold moon]

But cameras inside icky

Fp2 on the ceiling or wall maybe

But I’m told even tho it’s improved there is still some ghosting

[rare tinsel]

Fp2 appears to be limited to 5 people, I suppose I could run two in the room and expect people to not crowd too much.

Thanks

[rare tinsel]

Budget is several hundred dollars

[cold moon]

You could easily do this with frigate but it involves cameras in the home. If that isn’t a concern for you then that’s your best option by far

[rare tinsel]

cameras are an issue

[cold moon]

Then fp2 is the only thing I can think of

Can you expand on the use case

[rare tinsel]

are there good beam break sensors that integrate easily into HA?

[cold moon]

Exactly what your end goal is

[cold moon]

Any sensor you can imagine will work with esphome if you want to diy it

[rare tinsel]

The case is that I run a makerspace and I am wanting to track how many people are in the space over time without recording the space.

[cold moon]

And some simple logic for a counter

I would ask in esphome discord and repost in #diy-archived for good measure

[rare tinsel]

The space has a sliding glass door, a regular opening door and a 3rd door that is probably fine to ignore as it is a rarely used to add or subtract people from the space

[cold moon]

At Dallas makerspace they have one or two entrances both with rfid badge entry and magnetic locks to release

[rare tinsel]

when we are open to general student body, the sliding glass door is open to be welcoming. when our student staff uses it at other times they come through the other door (and sometimes also when sliding door is open)

[cold moon]

For fun I’d reach out to other makerspaces too. Why reinvent the wheel and all that

Most likely they’d like to copy your work if it’s good

[rare tinsel]

we have signin kiosk, and one of the questions I want to answer is what percentage are actually signing in

thanks

happy to share

[cold moon]

Ya Dallas makerspace is $50 a month or used to be

You can’t just walk in

[cold moon]

Using fully kiosk browser and a local web server?

[rare tinsel]

Running python on local pi that updates Air Table, which we then display who is in the room along with extra information like which machines they are credentialed on

[cold moon]

Over my head

[native pilot]

Any recommendations for a outdoor rated smart outlet that is dimmable? Zwave is my preference, I don't have much zigbee in my home.

[cold moon]

Outlets are on off

[native pilot]

a plug in solution would also be fine.

[cold moon]

i dont understand the dimmable part

[native pilot]

I have plugin outdoor patio lights that are bright af (currently tied to a zwave plug in deal similar to the picture), I want to be able to run them at 50% brightness (or potentially lower).

[winged knoll]

You've confirmed that you can dim them?

[native pilot]

Yes

[candid breach]

I guess I'm specifically looking for buying/selling used hardware

[glacial oracle]

That's even more related to your local area and which sites are relevant there

[candid breach]

Thanks!

[cold moon]

Reddit has r/homelabsales and r/hardwareswap

But as a seller you can get screwed by people lying about damage or whatever so idk

[candid breach]

Ahhh that might be what I'm looking for. I've had some items posted for sale in my local facebook markteplace but no one seems to know or understand what I'm selling lol

[cold moon]

Facebook is evil too so best not to contribute in any way to that

[candid breach]

Yeah, I don't like using it but Craigslist is dead 😦

[cold moon]

Their sites don’t even resolve on my lan

[cold moon]

Not if you’re a lot lizard

Haha

[candid breach]

I'm on my way to that level of dedication, the app is already deleted on my phone and I only use it for Marketplace at this point

[cold moon]

Btw @crimson tulip I finally got a 15w athom wled bulb it fuckin sucks

It’s so dim

1400lumen apparently and half as bright as a 800 hue

Especially dim if you make it warm white

It’s a sengled bulb like the gu10 athom bulbs

[glacial oracle]

It's 1400 lumen* (city in central china)

15w should be in reach of 2000

What is this doing ^^

[devout parrot]

Unfortunately. They're not bad for the price but not great either, not for a space where you want a bulb that powerful, there's a reason I swapped back to that Tuya Cree bulb as soon as I found out it was vulnerable to tuya-cloudcutter.
If they haven't patched the firmware I'd say those are worth it for the ~$10 it'll run you.

Damn actually those are on sale for 5.99 on Amazon rn.

[cold moon]

I don’t remember you ever saying they were dim : (

[devout parrot]

I probably didn't because I hadn't realized until I compared it side by side with some other bulbs.

[cold moon]

Well now I know

[devout parrot]

It was in a torchiere type lamp in my living room and yeah I didn't notice until I was testing that Cree bulb after I flashed esphome.

[cold moon]

The gu10 ones in a half bath look fine to me but it’s also a small space

Ignore my definitely not hanging in the air esp8266

[devout parrot]

Yeah that looks fine

[glacial oracle]

is that a smart mirror thing or just to drive an rgb strip

[cold moon]

regular mirror it's just for a tiny led strip

so the shitter is illuminated

after midnight the motion sensor only turns led strip on to 30% (and 30% lights + 30% leds after 10pm-midnight)

[glacial oracle]

neat

[cold moon]

i still use override with light switch to 100% or double tap light switch for 30%

that way it's dummy proof for guests and just like.. expected behavior from a light switch

[sweet raft]

Hey y'all

Is there anyone here experienced with designing electronic circuits?

I just have a question about darlington transistors/transitor array

[winged knoll]

Hey y'all

[tender flicker]

@glacial oracle responded that the shelly EM2 should work inside the metal circuit box panel. I have ordered my devices and am looking for advice from others that use the shelly EM. Should I expect reliable WiFi inside the box or should I plan to mount the device outside the box?

[glacial oracle]

Personally, id expect it to work just fine if you have proper coverage in the room. Even on low signal strength, they should work reliable enough in most scenarios

[gleaming tapir]

I would expect decent signal as well, but I don’t have any inside any metal enclosures so I don’t have a good comparison point. You could also wire it up at your dryer instead of in your circuit breaker panel.

[winged dust]

Morning. Maybe this is more of a #energy-archived question, but it's about hardware, so wanted to start here. I have an Emporia Vue I got installed in my house ~3 years ago. It's okay-ish, but the API has been unreliable, and it's cloud based. I'm expecting some other electrical work this spring so am thinking this could be an opportunity to replace it with something better. I'd rather not mess around with custom firmware. It seems the Iotawatt would have been a good option but that's limited availability now through the Australian dealer. Any other recommendations that integrate well with HA, local-only? I'm US, residential split-phase.

[long charm]

Anyone have a recommendation for a smart thermostat that would work well with a Trane heat pump (for heating and cooling). My heat pump also has auxiliary heating element. My objective is to control the temp of my house, avoid higher TOU electricity rates, and efficiently use (or avoid) use of the heating elements to minimize bill. Being able to utilize variable fan speed would be nice.

I have a Nest thermostat today, and i find it to be somewhat light on features.

[forest pike]

if i want to buy hardware like security cameras that uses POE, do i just look for POE compatible? or do i need to know about voltages and current draws and what not?

[glacial oracle]

Somewhat yes but somewhat no

You would need to look at the poe standard so it is capable to provide the cam with the proper wattage.

But generally everything is capable of powering 12.5w@48V, just gotta check that a switch works for that on as many ports as you need

[drifting grove]

What's the recommended place to sell used gear? I have some smart plugs and Philips Hue gear I want to sell.

[glacial oracle]

Your local second hand sales platforms are probably best to try

[drifting grove]

I sell stuff on /r/hardwareswap and wasn't sure if there was something similar for home automation- thanks!

[cold moon]

best to post in #cameras-archived and get specific recommendations based on your specific needs (substream quality?) (keyframes?) stuff you probably arent even thinking about if you plan to use an advanced NVR such as frigate

[forest pike]

hey! yea right now i got lots of studying to do. i know we discussed this before as well. but before i buy any of the cameras i can at least rough in the POE. just wanted to make sure POE was POE and handled everything under that moniker

[cold moon]

i'm not the best guy to ask unless you want to spend stupid money on unifi and not have some of the features i mentioned above

basically you dont want to cheap out on CCA cable (copper clad aluminum)

and you should use plenum or riser cable where needed for fire code (altho seriously not necessary in a home it's just a good idea to do it right)

and always run two cables beside each other or better smurf tube and add a pull string. look at blue's guide https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1LNONZXsLi-R9ejamD9Bd2UfzpqjqEWVt0ZepTGmMC50/edit

not all 100% advice i'd give but generally lots of good info in there and he's edited it with some of my suggestions

[forest pike]

aweosme thank you! will review that now

[cold moon]

your wallet might not thank me

[forest pike]

hahah i dont think i'll go unifi option that we discussed before. i saw dahua is recommended by frigate. this is just trial right now so no biggie. at least we can get POE roughed in though

[rare tinsel]

I was looking to do the same for my heatpumps until I realized I didn't have/need an auxilary heat source. The two projects I looked at are

ThermTerm https://github.com/daniloc/ThermTerm
which uses an IR blaster to simulate the remote control to set temp, fan speed, heat or cool mode and talks with HA. The project is built around Mitsbuishi remote codes, but the library has a ton of other manufactures, so I would expect Trane to be in the list. I also suspect that you would need to figure out under what conditions the auxilary heating kicks in and step up the thermostat in small increments using HA if you wanted to say go from 64F to 69F. I had some hardware component problems (bad batch of boards) and am waiting for a replacement. I've done mild testing and it does control my heat pumps. Bonus, it has a manually adjustable physical interface.

mitsubishi2MQTT https://github.com/dzungpv/mitsubishi2MQTT
which is an esp32 device with a connector that goes to the CN105 port on the control board and talks to the heat pump like the manufacturer's controller. This requires disassembly to some point and I'm less convinced the code is available for other manufacturers. I have the hardware created and the code runs, but I haven't installed in my units yet.

[torn cypress]

Hey. Anyone knows if the beelink eq12's m.2 e-key m.2 slot is only a single lane or double?

[glacial oracle]

it should be x1

At least that's what the datasheet tells

[torn cypress]

Thanks. I couldnt find it.

[halcyon cosmos]

hi there, i'm used to find more info on the web but i quess i lack the right search parameters. Just installed the Home Assistant on my synology nas and connected my Hue. Since i;ve been using a Homey 2019 i cant connect connect my Fibaro stuff.. What would be the best solution to give HA connections to ZWave, zigbee etc? Should i switch to Fibaro Home center 3 or just 2 sticks?
I have a Synology 820+ wich has 2 USB outputs.
Sorry, cant find the right info online, hope you can push me in the right direction.

[glacial oracle]

You want to get some coordinator style gear which is usually but not always USB connected. Check the page of the respective integration/their documentation, they usually contain a list of supported & recommend devices

[merry rampart]

I think you are using the wrong firmware. The WLED firmware for 15W bulbs needs to be compiled by yourself. The official firmware is not released. The official version of the firmware is not suitable for 15W bulbs.

[merry rampart]

You can try their default factory firmware
https://drive.google.com/file/d/108Zrvq_io9jS4At4EXxAoHDEuRtY0b40/view?usp=sharing

[cold moon]

it was the white slider way down.. i finally figured it out

i didnt think enough people saw it to update people on being wrong

i will say this specific bulb not all athom 15w might have an issue though. seems to not want to stay connected to my unifi APs. it's not locked to a single AP or anything

no issue with my gu10 athom bulbs on same network

i have another one to try in its place

[cold moon]

what do you mean the official version is not suitable for 15w bulbs? what specific flags are you using to compile that cant be done by us?

are you just talking about needing the 2mb version or?

[rustic elk]

Looking for a good HA compatible smart door lock. Ideally with a fingerprint or keypad... Here's the kicker, where I'm going to put it, it's a solid 200 feet from the nearest wave or zigbee Device. The location will share a common neutral/ground bar in the panel, but I don't think zwave communicates over the power lines... Thoughts? I'll have Wi-Fi out there, so maybe I do a secondary Host node? Not sure what the right path is here. I want the lights on zwave anyway, so I gotta find a solution

[full path]

EU enthusiasts. A question. I have this rotary dimmer that is connected to this hideous light filled with LED bulbs. The lights dim appropriately, but they flicker a lot. It drives me crazy. I can make it stop flickering if I tap the knob, which makes me think the issue is a cheap knob.

Any recommendations of a better quality knob that could work better for this setup? I know it's apocryphal, but I don't have a strong need to automate this light right now, but also not against it, especially if it was ZigBee.

I'm new to the EU and unfamiliar with which are the standard "high quality" suggestions.

I was looking at something like this. Gets good reviews, but maybe there is something else that is more resilient/consistent: https://amzn.eu/d/dma3zdP

[golden thorn]

Depends on your lights as well. They have to be compatible with it and might flicker even with a good dimmer or without one. I'd check it with OpenCamera and a low shutter and ISO. You might be surprised how many things flicker. Where in the EU roughly?

[full path]

Amsterdam

It's kind of extreme flickering. 100s of ms, I'd guess. Happens for a few seconds then stops.

If it's happening more consistently, I just "flick" the rotary knob or adjust the dimming slightly and it fixes it.

I don't THINK it's as a result of AC frequency or anything like that. My guess is the rheostat or whatever encoder is in the knob is causing the voltage to jump around.

But I realize the lights play a part here and this is likely one of those situations where it's an analog switch not designed for LED lights and the only reason it works at all is because the chandelier has so many lights and are pulling enough wattage.

[patent river]

Did that fitting previously contain incandescent bulbs, and if so are you still using the same dimmer?

[full path]

I'm renting, but yes that's my guess

[patent river]

Old dimmers for incandescent lights were frequently leading-edge, where most LEDs behave best on trailing-edge dimmers

Your theory about the dimmer being old and worn out is also definitely a good one

[full path]

I figure it's a cheap thing to try at least replacing the switch

(cheaper than an electrician)

Just don't know what model generally has the most flexibility - I want to give it the best chance to work

[patent river]

You could also try turning the power off and spraying deep down inside with contact cleaner (it's flammable, so don't do it live). If it is a bad potentiometer that should sort it out (at least temporarily)

[full path]

Ah yeah, I didn't think about just disassembling it and cleaning it. I sort of figured the encoder would be enclosed and it would take some detailed disassembly to get at the true issue

But maybe spraying and praying some contact cleaner will fix it is another thing I could try

But IF that does not work... Any replacements folks recommend?

[patent river]

Maybe something like this?
https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Schneider_Electric_NH3516.html

The - entirely different form factor but likely similar internals - Schneider dimmers we get in this part of the world seem to work well. And you get Zigbee as a bonus

[full path]

Ah yeah that does look pretty good.

I need to disassemble this switch gang and see what install options I have now that I'm looking at this

I didn't consider they wouldn't be standard.

[patent river]

I was looking for one that looked like the square EU style power outlets

[full path]

Yeah. The mounting bracket there looks bigger than I expected is all.

But it might be identical. I'll take a look, thanks! It'll be my first attempt at doing Dutch electrical work.

[ashen apex]

Random one for anyone with an EV. Is there such a thing as a smart/connected trickle charger (CC2)?

[cold moon]

@orchid escarp any suggestions^

[orchid escarp]

you mean CCS?

OpenEVSE is great for charging at home

[cyan lichen]

note that with AC charging, the actual "charger" is built in to the car and can't be directly controlled, however a programmable EVSE will let you reduce the max current the car is permitted to draw during charging, or prevent it from charging at certain times of day.

[cyan lichen]

Also, "trickle charging" has a kind of specific meaning, and isn't something that can safely be done on lithium-ion cells; they have very little self-discharge anyways. The car's built-in battery management system will deal with figuring out the exact charge rate and stopping point to use.

[cold pollen]

Is there anything particular special in getting an wifi adapter working under a Rpi HA image? I need to get 3 wifi adapters running, plugged them in via an active USB hub, they can be seein in the ha hardware info, but they are not shown in HA or nmcli

default_config: is used

[glacial oracle]

i could imagine that this only works with certain chipsets (as for others they may simply lack the drivers)

[cold pollen]

hmmm... that might be the problem, but then the sticks I got are sold as "linux compatible" and working with Rpi.

Is the home assistant OS so slimed down that the modules for the wifi dongles are missing?

[glacial oracle]

you can run a vast variety of operating systems on those pis, haos (which i suppose you mean) is just very stripped down

especially as wifi isnt a recommended networking method, it kinda makes sense that it doesnt ship with drivers for a whole lot of devices

but it could also just be some mediatek thing, they tend to not work that well

[cold pollen]

I do not want to connect to the Rpi via wifi but use the Ethernet port, I need to access three solar power inverters, which can be access via their own wifi-AP

[glacial oracle]

those inverters cant join a shared wifi?

[cold pollen]

nope the AP is the "installer"-mode, which provides all the data in detail. Huawei...

[glacial oracle]

welp

just cant have nice things

i would check the forums, maybe someone else has gotten the same dongles as you and got them to work

alternatively there likely are hint to which one might reasonably work

[cold pollen]

yeah might not be nice, but as long as it is working, I prefer this method over some API-call of a "smart" cloud solution at all time

thanks I will look for it, maybe I find someone who shared how to build a linux modul for particular wifi-chip under haos

I was really hoping to get something working out of the box, as I didn't want to deal with breaks due to updates or the need to recompile something whenever haos got updated.

[dry vessel]

Hello, I have 3 different light zones equipped with 230 V LED spot lights, each zone draws about 250 W when fully powered. I'm wondering if any of you guys knows a dimmer that would be able to handle this wattage. shellys are out of game unfortunately since they can only handle about 200 W. I looked about into professional lighting solutions but getting to HA and DMX to work together seems a bit tricky especially since those DMX dimmers usually don't have a manual control, which I would like to have.
So in short I'm looking for:

• dimming 230 V, 250 W LED load
• controllable via HA AND an external controls (button or switch)
• connected preferably via Ethernet, Wifi since I don't have zigbee or zwave
  Any recommendations?
  Thanks a lot ✌️

[ashen apex]

Yes sorry, all new to this. Should have mentioned that I want a normal wall socket charger that has some sort of smarts built in. If I end up getting a mounted/electrician solution I'll likely go with Fronius as I already have their inverter/smart meter.

Short term I'm going to grab a cheap one off Amazon with a 16A smart socket that can at least monitor usage (I know that cutting current at high amps is bad, so will be disabling the switch feature).

[cyan lichen]

note that some of those smart sockets have a (possibly hard-wired?) cutout if the current exceeds a certain amount :/

should note that the OpenEVSE stuff does support being set up for north american L1 charging, tho the form factor won't be as nice as some of the portable chargers available.

[orchid escarp]

the OpenEVSE doesn't have to be mounted, that's optional

and yes you could swap out the plug for a standard NEMA-15

[opal compass]

A little while back I was asking about a cheap WLED setup with no soldering and edned up ordering these parts
Athom LED controller - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002198527735.html
Cheapest BTF Lightning 12V 5m Strip - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2000165819.html
PSU - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005698168545.html

Pluged them in, did a little bit of config and it's all just working
Heaps bright enough, Easy integration into HA, would do it again if I found another use for LEDs

[golden thorn]

These's also quick connectors for LED strips like these:

• https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001705395602.html
• https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005335144043.html
  I plan to try them for the next project.

[opal compass]

ooo nice!
That'll be handy if they don't come with JST connectors - the ones I got did, so it was all plug and play
But I remember seeing the higher wattage ones that didn't

[opal compass]

Speaking of connectors actually, I also wanted to give this ones a shot next time im doing FCOB lights
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002292860863.html

[cold moon]

your first link are super duper shit and should be avoided at all costs

source: i sadly own some

the only decent ones are the ones with copper wire little jumpers

even then it's just best to solder

you're going from a tiny piece of copper wire inside the strip to aluminum and it just aint gud

[golden thorn]

Got a link?

[cold moon]

https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Transparent-Connector-Solderless-Extension/dp/B0B3LXTML9 this type

doesnt have to be 5 pin tho just first link i found

[merry rampart]

“DATA_PINS”May need to be removed to compile

https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/blob/9d70ec56f28b78b438514b17618801046dc47157/platformio.ini#L727

[cold moon]

i would avoid these like the plague as well

[cold moon]

i havent flashed the bin you linked the other day. what is the version you are shipping with?

i got three athom 15w bulb gifted to me and i think the guy updated them to 14.1 and i think you might be right on the fw

also is it a known limitation of the underlying sengled bulbs that you guys use that the devices dont want to migrate access points?

and or prefer a specific wifi 2.4ghz channel (1)?

[merry rampart]

It is not recommended to update because the latest version may consume more resources of the ESP8285 chip and may cause the device to restart irregularly.

[cold moon]

i tried locking them to an AP and they did not like that. if the AP ever goes down they try to migrate and never give up trying to join a different AP (that unifi is blocking if they are locked to one AP)

[cold moon]

i think wled is just generally getting more buggy with every release sadly 😦

[cold moon]

so you plan to always ship with 0.13.3 or? which version do you consider the "stable" cutoff?

[merry rampart]

Yes, athom is planning to replace the ESP32 chip with a more powerful one, the ESP8285 chip is too weak now

[cold moon]

i am not having issues with two gu10 bulbs on 0.14.1 also with same chip but i dont use that bathroom often or call them in automations often

[cold moon]

ok your bin is 0.14.0 b1

i forget what all bugs are in that i'll have to check the releases

[cold moon]

frankly i dont know how to compile myself. can you provide us with a working 0.14.2-b2 version?

[merry rampart]

I'm not sure if 0.14.2 is possible as the free heap here is already on the verge of collapse

[cold moon]

I remember something a long time ago about flashing 13.x over usb first for esp32 if it’s such a small number available. But you guys start with higher than that

Update Notice
The new default ESP32 partition layout (1MB FS) is incompatible with the filesystem partition of the previous layout (1.5MB FS).
Please note that config and presets will be wiped upon updating an ESP32 from 0.13.0-b4 or earlier to 0.13.0-b6 via USB or the web installer.
ESP32 OTA updates and all ESP8266 update methods are unaffected , your data will be kept when doing a wireless update.

Ah it was this

[merry rampart]

We have tested it on the ESP32C3 chip and the available heap is greater than 120KB and will use it in the next new product

[cold moon]

Nice

[merry rampart]

This is a small wled controller, released about a month later, using the ESP32C3 chip

[cold moon]

Could we take apart the bulb and swap if we are good at that?

Or whole new pcb needed?

[merry rampart]

No problem, you can buy an ESP32C3 12F module and it can be replaced directly

[cold moon]

Good to know I might get one to play with

[merry rampart]

https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Pinouts/#esp-c3-12f

[cold moon]

Perfect thanks

[merry rampart]

https://templates.blakadder.com/athom_LB01-15W-E27.html

Just remove the LED light board above, be careful not to break the connecting wires at the bottom, and then use a soldering iron to remove the old Wi-Fi module and replace it with a new one

[cold moon]

That sounds doable thank you for all the pics and links for specifics

What glue do you use to secure the diffuser back? Or just pop back on?

[quasi horizon]

😎

[merry rampart]

This white one is thermal conductive silicone grease, which mainly conducts heat to the shell. It would be better if you have it.

[deft sphinx]

trying to decide on an LED light strip. What's everyone's thoughts on TP-Link Kasa vs Govee for HA integration and ease of use?

[golden thorn]

Do you already use zigbee?

[deft sphinx]

yes

[golden thorn]

Then buy whatever strip suits you + an LED controller.

[deft sphinx]

the problem with the zigbee one i found (sengled) is the cost & size compared to the other two i mentioned. This light strip would be for a basic use of turning red when i'm on a call, and turning off when i'm not

[deft sphinx]

could you delve a little deeper into what you said? there's a zigbee led controller that can control any LED strip, regardless of make/mfg?

[golden thorn]

Pretty much.

[deft sphinx]

that seems like a lot more hassle than it's worth, including additional cost, which defeats the purpose

it would almost double (and in some cases double) the cost of a single LED strip

thanks for the suggestion though

so back to my original question: TP-Link Kasa vs Govee for HA integration and ease of use?

[subtle creek]

anyone aware of any radon sensors that would work with HA?

[agile latch]

hi all, anyone got any hardware recommendations ? i want to get a mains powered touch screen for a dashboard, not a battery powered device to put on a wall , cheers

[glacial oracle]

yes

[pseudo stream]

Good evening. I came once again for a little advise. Today I have tried to use pressure pads as bed sensors. Unfortunately they are not possible to use in my bed as the body weight is so much distributed on the mattress that it will not cause enough pressure on the pads. So I have tried instead taking ESP board with 2 exposed wires placed in cross under the mattress one connected to ground and one to gpio pin. Result is that it's working pretty well. My question now is if this would be safe to use for a long term in regards of life safety? In other words can this potentially cause a fire if the two wires will be touching for a long time? 🤔

[gloomy elbow]

It depends on the current, voltage, etc. I'd highly recommend covering them with something fireproof

[hearty sigil]

I have an IKEA ZigBee jetström lamp which I like to control with my existing wall switch (push button). Which ZigBee module for the switch would work? Can I also dimm by holding the button? The IKEA lamp is dimmable via ZigBee

[oak vortex]

Hello all. Two things:

1. FYI - for the scenario of running Aqara H1 (no neutral) switches in decoupled mode + smart bulbs, I found most smart bulbs do not provide sufficient current through them to power the switch, which results in the switch losing power and causing various issues. I did however find a brand of smart bulbs which are better at this, and provide sufficient current to power up the switch. For reference, these bulbs are Emos GoSmart (by Legrand, Tuya based) - https://www.emos.eu/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/emos-catalogue-lighting-2023-2024-enu-small.pdf

2. My coordinator is USB based, the Sonoff 3.0 Plus. I have bought a secondary, POE coordinator - the SLZB-06

I'm looking after a bit of advice on how to integrate the secondary coordinator, so that I avoid any pitfalls and headaches. I would appreciate any tips and advice.

[winged knoll]

#zigbee-archived can advise you about Zigbee coordinators, but you'll need to run Zigbee2MQTT for the second one... or just have one mesh, which is the smarter approach

[gusty onyx]

Is there a tracker that works on HA to put on a dog collar and so I can know where they are in the house. I don't like cameras inside the house.

[cold moon]

Collar with BLE tracker embedded would work if you had a network of BLE beacons in the house

[gusty onyx]

@cold moon let me look that up

[cold moon]

No need to tag me to tell me that dude

[runic tinsel]

I’ve bought cheapo tuya Zigbee controllers on AliExpress for about 8-9€. They work fine attached to cct lightstrips. There are rgb version and every other combination. You just plug it between the psu and strip

These ones
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EvK3oop

But no experience on kasa or govee so I defer to others

[deft sphinx]

That is pretty cheap. I'm new to this. Can you explain what CCT means in the light strip?

[winged knoll]

Colour temperature white - warm to cold

[deft sphinx]

Ok understood. So what would be some cheap strips to use with that? I'd need to find ones that fit that connection no?

[winged knoll]

Gledopto's Zigbee LED controller and whatever you can get in your country

Some brands are better than others

https://quinled.info/2018/08/23/my-favorite-warm-white-led-strip/

[devout parrot]

Yeah look at setting up espresence, check compatible BLE beacons on their wiki.
There are plenty of pet collar cases out there, I have one for the Tile I use on one of my cats.

[gusty onyx]

So wait, the beacons will be setup in each room and the tile will be on the cat and when they are in that room, it tells HA that cat is in kitchen?

[cold moon]

Tile are fully local?

Btw I was wrong on 15w athom bulbs being dim.. I just had to play with the white slider it defaulted all the way down low

[deft sphinx]

@runic tinsel those appear to not be compatible with ZHA from what I can find
@winged knoll the same wit thh Gledopto

[winged knoll]

Sure the Gledopto ones will be

What makes you think they're not?

[deft sphinx]

i checked on the database and it doesn't list ZHA: https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Gledopto_GL-MC-001.html

[winged knoll]

1. That "database" isn't complete, or necessarily accurate

2. Gledopto do a lot more than that one controller

[deft sphinx]

should i not be using that database as a reference? is there a better one to use? someone had suggested comparing to that when i first started

[winged knoll]

https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Gledopto_GL-C-008P.html for example

The author of that database rates it highly, but there's no official ZHA list

People suggest edits, based on experience

[deft sphinx]

well most people would rate their own work highly lol

[winged knoll]

Sometimes utter bollocks makes it onto the list as there's no checking

[deft sphinx]

understood

ok. i'll keep my eyes open

thanks!

[winged knoll]

Most Zigbee 3.0 stuff should work with ZHA without Quirks - except probably Tuya stuff

[deft sphinx]

but tuya i can just use the tuya app to add and then the tuya integration in HA for addition and control no?

[winged knoll]

Tuya WiFi stuff no

Tuya Zigbee is what I'm talking about

[deft sphinx]

gotcha

[winged knoll]

WiFi != Zigbee

[deft sphinx]

i know that lol

[winged knoll]

WiFi stuff doesn't work with ZHA 😉

[deft sphinx]

but does tuya zigbee != zigbee?

[winged knoll]

Well... ish

Tuya is always a shit show

[deft sphinx]

i didn't think that was a difference which is why i was confused when you brought up tuya stuff lol

[winged knoll]

Tuya's Zigbee stuff is often broken

Bit like their WiFi stuff

[cold moon]

tuya bad

runs away

[ionic breach]

Hello everyone. I have searched for Multiway switching but found no results that satisfy me. I'm rebuilding my home lights into smart ones, and you probably guessed it already. Are there any Multiway smart switches? If not then can I just use one way Sonoff smart switch on both ends and whenever one is clicked the other will turn on(automation in HA), anyone tried that? I don't want to waste money and destroy one of the switches if it is not allowed to put power on the output when switch is off.

[devout parrot]

Nah but this is for my cat who likes to run out. I need the not local features to find his dumb ass.
I was just saying there are plenty of solutions for mounting a BLE tag on a pet collar.

[cold moon]

USA?

[ionic breach]

EU

[cold moon]

Sad

[cold moon]

Country?

[runic tinsel]

Well I am using them with DeConz and they work fine — usually that’s the one that has the worst support. But I wasn’t expecting much. I needed something small for a few not particularly important strips. And I was pleasantly surprised

[ionic breach]

Poland, i have already some sonoff and its woking so far

[cold moon]

I have no eu suggestions just asking so others have more info to go on

For USA zwave zooz and inovelli zigbee are great options with multi switch setups

But in 240 land you have Chinese stuff like aqara and worse as your only options I believe

Fun fun

[runic tinsel]

Do you mean like for stairs or the cross-switches? I have a single fibaro dimmer sitting behind my switch which connects to three switches on the staircase and it works. It toggles every time that the phase is toggled.

You just need to connect the whole sequence of switches to the switch inputs of the sonoff or whatever

As a tip — I have Schneider electric unica dumb switches everywhere and Fibaro or Hue smart modules sitting behind them. You don’t know which ones are smart and which ones are not. The Schneider switches are modular so you can replace toggles with momentary switches etc

[ionic breach]

understood, a problem might be about size. idont know if a hole behind normal switch is enought to place something like that there, i will test it soon. thanks for answers and tips

[runic tinsel]

Yeah — some of my contraptions might give an electrician a heart attack

[gusty onyx]

Really, I just recently got Tuya lights and it works pretty well and a sensor , I know there something changes to the local thing and the Tuya site

What is better? Than Tuya that's fairly cheap.

[glacial oracle]

mostly anything that isnt with tuya inside (even tho there are some exclusions
those devices are as cheap as they are because they are cheaply made, with it not being obvious whether or not its just rebadged or some more custom design which matches anything that the datasheet says

[hearty sigil]

I only need a sensor which tracks if the button has been pressed (circuit closed). I found an led trading ZigBee green power device which seems to do this but zgp is still under development for ZHA. Is there an aqara switch with neutral wire which can also do this in decoupled mode?

[cyan flint]

Can anyone recommend some hardwired RGB light strips that work with Home Assistant? I want to be able to control the brightness and change the colors with Home Assistant.

I looked into Philips Hue, but I couldn't find any hardwired kits. There's a company named Armacost Lighting that makes some light stips that are hardwired, but I'm not sure if I can get them to work with Home Assistant.

I'm in the US, I have no protocol preference, and I don't have any budget restrictions.

Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

[toxic granite]

Hello all. So i have known about HA for a long time now but am very very new to getting started with it.
I've been thinking about getting some smart plugs for my bedroom to control a couple bits. One of the things being a lava lamp that i have. I tried to do some googling around but got very overwhelmed and confused with all the options and information that was about.
I was hoping that maybe someone here could be awesome and kind enough to point me in the right direction for something suitable?

• I'm based in the UK
• I don't necessarily want to spend to much to begin with, but don't mind spending a bit more if I need to.
• I'm not sure on the protocol preference as I am unsure what they mean currently.
• I don't think I have any feature requests for the plugs, but i am also not sure what is available for features. I don't entirely understand the purpose for the power monitoring part either. Unless it is as obvious as it sounds

I did read about the ability to make them local only which would be preferable if possible. I'm happy to try flashing if i need to as long as i have a suitable guide to follow as well.

Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you

[glacial oracle]

There are probably a couple decisions more to be made.
You could go and buy wifi plugs like the ones from Shelly (or something with Matter if you'd really want) and that's it. The only important aspect here is staying away from stuff that has tuya inside. You don't really need to watch for features if all you want to do is turn stuff on or off, but a lot of stuff has power monitoring included which can come in handy if you would have like a couple more devices attached (and don't necessarily intend to switch it on or off).
The alternative probably would be going with ZigBee ones, but you would likely have the additional cost of buying a coordinator as well. As they are local only anyway there isn't much that doesn't work, even tho some gear (tuya again) may not be of nice quality.

[toxic granite]

For the moment yeah it is just switching on and off.
I have some other bits in mind that i will ask about at a later date for lighting but that is down the line.

My intention will be to have it all controlled via a raspberry pi if that makes any difference to the situation btw. I did see alot mentioned about Zigbee and Z-Wave online. But again with so many options, it got a little overwhelming with all the things mentioned

[glacial oracle]

It doesn't really matter if you just pick either. Ha can communicate with both as long as you have coordinators attached to it

Zwave might be a bit more expensive but they also may offer some more special gear you don't usually find with zigbee

[toxic granite]

Maybe I'll go down the Zigbee route and get myself a coordinator to go with which i dont mind doing.
I could just get the official HA SkyConnect one unless an alternative is recommended.
Is there a particular model of Zigbee smart plug that is better suited for my needs?

[white spire]

Hey, I am using ZHA and looking for radiator thermostats, any recommendations? I am living in Germany.

[glacial oracle]

They all will work but you might want to check out the ones from aquara

[toxic granite]

The smart plugs or the coordinators?

[glacial oracle]

the plug

[toxic granite]

I'm just tryna find them now but seem to be having trouble finding one from them

By the looks of it, they do not do a smart plug in the UK.
They have them for the EU

[glacial oracle]

oh it looks like they only have some for the eu and us market

unfortunate

[toxic granite]

Very, because i liked the look of their stuff actually.
I saw they had a blind controller as well. I'm going to be installing a blind in my room soon and that would be ideal. But im sure other options are out there too

[glacial oracle]

you usually can mix and match as youd like but i seem unabble to find a nice plug for the uk market. like there are ones from hue and ledvanced but they cant do a lot and are pretty expensive

there are innr branded ones which might be acceptable

[toxic granite]

I found these being talked about at one point i think
They aren't exactly the cheapest either but idk what they are like as an option
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0CFVL1P1W

Oh haha

[glacial oracle]

hehe, yea they might be tuya if i recall but they are of those that might be acceptable

[toxic granite]

What's wrong with tuya?

[glacial oracle]

they tend to not be as reliable, sometimes buggy and usually always of dubious quality

for certain applications that doesnt matter and some brands have a good enough product around it which makes it work

the plugs and app doesnt look all the same by accident, so its usually rather easy to identify ^^

at worst its a try and error thing, stuff may work out just fine

[toxic granite]

Well perhaps i will give these innr ones a go that i linked and see what happens then

Will a coordinator still be necessary?

[winged knoll]

For Zigbee, yes

No coordinator, no mesh, no ability to interact with them

The coordinator is also the radio, rather important 😉

[toxic granite]

Gotcha, makes sense
I'll by me the HA official one and see how i go with that

Oh Sonoff and Tapo are 2 brands ive seen come up as well a couple times. They possibly seem like good options too but not entirely sure

[winged knoll]

Sonoff's Zigbee stuff is a mixed bag, better than Tuya, but that's a low bar

[toxic granite]

Okie dokie. Sonoff is crossed off the list
You didn't mention anything about Tapo so i assume they are either ok or you arent sure

[winged knoll]

I stay away from WiFi stuff, there's a long history of manufacturers removing the local access

[proud ledge]

I accidentally burned the Hue bridge. Is it better to re-buy Hue or if there is an opportunity better Sonoff Zigee?

[winged knoll]

Well, #zigbee-archived is better than Hue 😛

[toxic granite]

Yeah i would prefer to go for something that is local only tbh

[winged knoll]

(and there's better sticks than the Sonoff)

[eager mantle]

Anyone have any recommendations for an outdoor thermometer that I can use to integrate with my HA ecosystem? My intent is to use it in the winter to add smarts to my heating system to switch to the emergency heat when the temperature is really low. I live in a really humid climate, even in the winter, and in the summer the humidity is stifling.

I have access to both Zigbee and ZWave. My thermostat is ZWave anyway...