like this https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Neo_NAS-AB06B2.html ?
#hardware-archived
1 messages · Page 43 of 1
I have some Tuya (UK style) smart sockets, and they connected straight to Zigbee2Mqtt, and just work for me. They have interesting diagnostic sensors like "Voltage", and the zigbee routing seems as reliable as my IKEA smart plugs (that is, mostly reliable)
Actually, I was thinking of internal, and having it serve multipurpose like door bell chime, alert (you've left a door open), and siren (to scare people away?). However, maybe I also need an outdoor solar powered siren too 🤔
why have you settled on analog strips instead of addressable?
Oh, and... a lot of Tuya devices are available as identical looking WiFi and Zigbee versions - the WiFi ones do need to be setup in Tuya's cloud, and I think that all battery powered WiFi sensors and controllers suffer from delay waking up. I just bought a Tuya WiFi contact sensor by mistake. (And for some reason the Zigbee versions are always a bit more expensive)
Probably people confusing the Tuya wifi with Tuya zigbee devices. Their wifi stuff is highly proprietary and discouraging of local control.
figured having both a cool white and warm white LED was more important. unless you know of an addressable one with similar chips? its for my kitchen so its not the end of the world if it can't put on a programmed show 😛
haha
It's a new year and a new type of addressable LED strip has become available which I can only describe as "Addressable Neon". It's a 24v COB Addressable LED strip with 720LEDs/m and addressable zones of 5cm each. I think this is going to be the perfect addressable LED strip for a lot of projects because of ease of use and just how it looks!
Jum...
wouldn't this suffer from the same white issues of other RGB? aka because it doesn't have dedicated white LEDs
ye
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/397426163649216512/914682412099850280/video0.mov mine are just rgb but i would prefer rgbw like sk6812. 5v sucks to power inject tho
i think im going to go with the CCT in the end just because of the flexability on the white light
assuming i can figure out what controller to get
haven't found anything with 6 pins. yet....
athom
RGBCCT Analog and Addressable Digital Strip Controller. This WLED controller support both analog and addressable stripBuild in ESP8285 chipset with 2M flash • Working voltage: DC5-24V• Output channel: RGBCCT and 1CH Addressable • Output current: 16A•Max 384W PWM GPIO R:GPIO5 G:GPIO13 B:GPIO14 CW:GPIO4 WW:GPIO12 DATA:GPIO1 Button:GPIO0 IR:GP...
you can buy from their aliexpress shop too
it would be nice if it was an esp32 tho
thanks
Hey all, I am running into a weird issue with a Skyconnect that I can't seem to find any definitive info on (other than one online thread that seems to describe a similar issue but with no resolution). I am running Supervised in a VM on Windows 11. When I first plug in the Skyconnect, it shows up in HA and I am able to configure the ZHA and thread integrations successfully. But whenever the VM restarts, the integrations will not reinitialize, and after some troubleshooting what seems to be happening is that the Skyconnect essentially disappears as far as HA is concerned. Even though the host machine can still see it. But if I unplug and replug, it works fine again until the next restart.
Is this a known/common issue, and is there a way to fix it? I spend extended periods away from the house, so it's not feasible to physically cycle the USB connection whenever this happens.
jump to #zigbee-archived
Oh okay, I thought I would start here since its multi protocol hardware. But I'll jump over.
That sounds like it might be some kind of issue with whatever VM software you're using.
Hi all! Would you guys consider using a 24 inches wall touch display for the dashboards? Or do Home Asisstant dashboards even support touch displays?
yes but that seems rather impractical
it's somewhat common for people to mount 7 or 10 inch tables to the wall to use as touch control panels
but 24 inches seems like it would not make sense unless you are talking about some serious information density and what's not really what HA dashboards are intended for
You just prompted me to do some digging on that front, and indeed, it seems like that might be the culprit. I am using VirtualBox, I am now reading some stuff that seems to indicate that USB pass-through can only happen if VirtualBox is running at the moment the USB device is inserted. But…I am surprised I haven't heard people talk about that before.
Does no one else have HAOS running in a VM that maintains connections to antennas/peripherals across reboots? That seems bonkers.
VirtualBox's USB passthrough was never reliable for me (not tested with HA, just kinda naff in general)
You've got a few options for Ethernet-connected Zigbee controllers that might make life a bit easier with a VM. Most are PoE too, so if you've got a PoE switch you don't need a power adapter either.
Are you asking if anyone has a high-availability system that stays connected to single pieces of hardware?
With HAOS running of a VM specifically, yeah. Because if this is indeed an intrinsic constraint of how VirtualBox operates, I would love to know if someone else is having success with a different virtualization solution, because I would gladly switch over.
you have one skyconnect, and two machines running a high-available setup of HAOS?
and you want the skyconnect to work on both dynamically?
or you have two skyconnect, two machines, and you want to be able to fail over between the two machines?
or something else?
I have a Windows 11 host, and one virtualized HAOS guest running on it. I also have one skyconnect. I want the skyconnect to work in HAOS across restarts of either the guest or host, without having to physically unplug and replug the skyconnect after the restart, which is what I have to do right now.
Just move over to proxmox and follow that guide
works fine in proxmox for me
People always have issues with vbox and passthru
awesome
Alternatively look into a PoE zigbee coordinator if you want to just not deal with usb at all
yup, that works also
This is what I use
Hmm, I like that
Does anyone have shelly duo bulbs? I'm having some issues adjusting the temperature of the bulbs with mqtt
Hey there, can you help me identify that sensor housing?
This might be a stupid question, but if I get an old thin client (HP something, with 8GB and a nice SSD), can I also sun HAOS? Or do I have to use some sort of docker solution?
Currently on a RPi4 and I might want to start with some more things like Frigate or others.
you can if its not that old and it supports virtualisation such as Proxmox
so i really think i am moving on the n100. my i5 uses 4x the power of the n100. i am only running home assistant OS (zigbee + node-red) and maybe 3 more containers (transmission, handbrake, custom ones) but i dont use them that often and i dont need it to be super performant.
take in mind that i really want the power down. size doesnt matter, i dont mind if it is rack or not, i actually like rack since i have one. i want to keep home assistant addons interface though since it helps out setting things up, it is just plain easier. from the time i was setting things up i noticed that having it on a docker container was a pain, is that still a thing? if it isnt docker container all the way!
within the price range 100-200e, do you think a mini pc with a n100 is the best thing i can have? a bit out of the loop of what exists
I'll have to read up on proxmox, no idea what that is 😄 But thanks, I'll look into it then to make sure it's not too old. Am I being stupid saying that I want HAOS, is it 'smarter' to do it differently? I prefer not to do the whole manual linux thing, where I have to do my own updates, etc. It's decades since I last frequently ran a linux distro and I don't fancy getting back into it...
it is "smarter" if you "don't prefer the manual linux thing", no need to subject yourself to that if haos does what you want
that looks like it be an rs2 one
Cool thanks. Yeah I'll only be running HA, Frigate (and some NVR system) and related things like an MQTT system. All network related stuff my unifi does.
So what's the most deadbeat hardware you can run HAOS on? I'm currently running on a raspberry pi 2 and it's not too bad
probably that 😄
Hi, I'm looking for a little push in the right direction. I have installed HAOS half an hour ago and been messing around with motionEye for a bit trying to connect my Reolink frontdoor camera. So far so good! However, before shifting to HA I had an RPI with a 2TB HDD to write my camera recording to. I'm trying to find a step-by-step to mount this disk in my HOAS, but anything I've found so far was related to back-ups or mediastorage.
Specifically; all I want to do is access the HDD through the filepath of my HAOS so I can tell motionEye to write my camera-recordings to the HDD specifically designed for it, instead of the on-board SSD.
I run mine in Docker and it's not too difficult, like I'm not a developer or an IT pro or anything and I figure it out just fine, it all comes down to personal preference and needs. There's a bit more stuff you have to configure manually if you're using Docker. If you don't want to run HAOS on bare metal, do Proxmox if you still want the convenience of HAOS.
yep been using proxmox but might do the docker way if able to get it running fully. that is the thing, last time i run the docker version, it was lacking a lot from HAOS
Well it's the "do it yourself" version of it
the n100 will run proxmox with multiple vms without any issues, id kinda safe myself the headache and have it "just work"
Hi Guys
I have a little Question and Google isn't helpfull atm
I bought a house and the lightning is with pulse switches and builtin led. I have on every switch only 2 cables to switch indeed. I have tried to install the sonoff zbmini but it didnt work. Does anyone have experience with what hardware I need? I could change just the lamps but then we cant use the switches (Replacing the switches is also an option if there are zigbee pulse switches)
You need the ZBMINI-L2 if you don't have neutral wire.
Are those wires to the momentary switches actually mains voltage and carry any power? I wonder if they're just little 5v wires that signal to a main controller.
Wait when you say pulse do you mean momentary switches?
I guess they signal to a main controller, didnt figured it all out but living room has 2 switches for lights and one in the kitchen to turn off all liht so i ues its to a main controller
for that I think you want something with a dry contact
Could be :p im dutch speaking so maybe my transmation wasn't right but indeed it is momentary
If there's no mains power at the switch you might have a hard time.
Thats what i tought. There is no main power to it
Maybe need some battery powered remotes and some DIY wiring at the controller.
Oh no the zbmini-L2 supports momentary switches
Actually I guess you don't need batteries, you just need to install the new relay at the controller where you have power, and not in the wall socket. Got confused for a minute 😅
so just install it were the power comes in and the first switch is located
I don't have the wiring diagram of what you're dealing with so I can't say with certainty.
Yeah i Understand. Thats the problem we bought the house and the wiring diagram isnt correct and we cant get in touch with the previous owner
Hire an electrician or get your hands dirty
will get my hands dirty
hey yall, im pretty new to HA and im still in the process of getting my hardware
was wondering, what, if any, are some cheaper alternatives to Raspberry pi?
bit expensive in my country
preferably a micro computer not a whole desktop
actually if someone can give me some general basic CPU requirements to set up your own HA environment (nothing crazy just for my apartment)
what country
i can do my own research between micro computers
used mini pc like lenovo m910q in the usa is $100 or less
there are $50 thin clients and cheaper
dell wyse 3040 or something similar
kinda shit compared to a mini pc tho
how shit is shit
i havent ordered anyhting besides a SONOFF zigbee 3.0 dongle
just wanna set something up myself instead of buying like an AQARA hub
takes all the fun away from it
i have been reading into it a fair bit but what kind of impact on performace are we talking about? slower response? lesser device connections? crashing?
With wired Ethernet home assistant ‘works fine’ with no delays turning lights on and stuff on low powered shit like a pi. The performance benefits are dashboards loading with lots of data like cams, update/restart speed, limitations of addons you can run, etc
understood. will probably try with something slightly cheaper and below the rpi specs and see if that fulfils my needs
thanks bud!
well going below a pi3 or pi4 passmark is a bad idea
one thing you can do is buy used broken laptops (the screen can literally be missing) and bad keyboard etc
Yeah idk what the market is like over in Vietnam, but over here businesses liquidate huge lots of thin clients, resellers get hold of them, and plenty of them sell for the same price or cheaper than a Pi with way more resources and similar power consumption.
Also if you have any unused laptops or laptops with broken screens or whatever, or if you can get hold of one for free or cheap, you can run HA on that no problem.
you can get a newer gen laptop for pretty cheap if you are buying it "for parts" since newer gen laptop screens can cost way too much for people to spend $ on
ya that
If you were to build a all-in-one HA, NVR, adblocker etc solution, would you go HA Yellow or a "regular" computer? I intend to have cameras, voice assistant etc. From a power usage perspective the HAY makes more sense but I think I will have about 5-10 cameras running (only recording on motion) for my "summer" house. I will have a spare server soon
My personal vote is do something stronger (like a standalone server running Proxmox or Unraid or something like that)
Anyone else using Konnected garage door openers?
so not HAOS and HAOD addons?
You can run HAOS on proxmox no problem
great
this is the way then
then I think I will sell my second HAY
Shame I bought one before I had these thoughts
I was asking about vacuums the other day - i ended up gtting the roborock and i have to say it integrates SUPER easily in HA and works perfectly. really nice
and it communicates locally
VM or LXC or doesn't matter? If you know
You can't run HAOS in a container
I found a script for it somewhere
so it seems like it can, but maybe not advisable
no, I was wrong. I read it too quickly
😉
weeeell, it's evening here. I blame a long day mainly
Any recommendations for switch relays that use zigbee that do power monitoring? I don’t think the sonoff ones do. Could use WiFi but prefer not to.
I think the aqara one's does if you use the ones with a neutral
$34 might just go with a WiFi Shelly one
not sure all shelly do power monitoring though
1PM UL $21.89
Only thing is it’s WiFi but not a deal breaker
As long as I can use it locally
okay
Depending on where you need to put it and how much power you need to switch, the new "mini" line might also work?
https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-plus-1-pm-mini
It's only rated 8A (vs 16A on the full size), but is half the size
Easy Smart Home Automation
To note, there is also a new monitoring-only model (no switching):
https://www.shelly.com/en/products/shop/shelly-plus-pm-mini
Easy Smart Home Automation
This is perfect. Unfortunately it says unavailable in USA
They only announced them a few weeks ago, is possible they're just not available yet
Ah maybe
Guess I’ll go with the regular size one. Would be cool if it allowed dimming
There at least used to be a dimmer model, but appears discontinued
The heck? That said "unavailable" when I clicked on it 5 minutes ago
Getting up in price. Might as well get the aqara so I can have zigbee
Nvm looks like no dimming
I'm looking at the "plus 1 mini" models in order to cram them in behind my light switches (very little space available). Pretty sure the mini is the only one that you can wire into a 2-way circuit (due to the extra terminal).
Might take them up on the 10% off if you sign up to their newsletter 😄
Shelly devices are reliable and good quality, and running WiFi devices for power monitoring saves bandwidth on your Zigbee network.
Let's be honest too, what else is 2.4GHz WiFi really good for?
Pretty sure all but 1-2 devices (out of 40) in my house that use 2.4 are IoT things.
LIFX bulbs, Xiaomi fans, Twinkly lights, Kasa switches, Elgato video light, cat feeder (Petkit), cat toilet (Litter Robot), Sonos speakers, Mitsubishi heat pump
Would hazard a guess about 85% of those are ESPs too 😄
2.4 is good for stable connections past 15 feet with any walls nearby
I'll put this in here, since I haven't given an update in a couple weeks, this setting in Ubiquiti to basically send out unicast frames instead of broadcasts for ARP packets solved my WIZ lights having any latency from gettings commands from HA:
I’m impressed
i suspect it has to do with esp32 network stack handling broadcasts, but haven't had the urge to test out with some of my esp32 test boards
it could just be the code on the wiz lights also
but eitherway not getting the 1-2 second delays that were occurring regularly
How’d you even figure that out lol
Is anyone aware of a TRV (uk) that only has open/close function. I know theres loads out there but i dont need a display, or temp measurements or fancy extras. Just one thatll open or close a rad valve
experimentation mostly. Created a 2.4ghz only, turned off band steering, and other things that everyone had recommended, and then decided to try that. Unicast messages are for the platform, so it will parse it at normal priority, but broadcasts aren't neccessarily for it, so i figured maybe the stack was running broadcast processing at a lower priority. Still don't know for sure, but it does seem to be working. A test would be to put static arp entries on home-assistant for the Wiz Lights (or other esp32 devices) and see if latency goes away on initial pings or other connections. I still get 20-80ms, but not 500-2000 anymore.
Thought about getting a kasa motion sensor switch but they don’t appear to allow local control unfortunately
I have quite old ones; hs100 single switches (two indoor lights), and a KP303 3-outlet power strip (mounted under the house, switching outdoor lights)
Gas sensot type
slow day
Since you said it's a slow day I will repost my quesiton from yesterday.... Anyone using Konnected garage door openers?
People do... you should ask the question so people can answer when they're around
thanks.
I got two of them and I am having nightmares with them. They will not keep a connection to my Wifi. I will see on my router (TP-link) that they have an assigned IP address but in the logs of the device itself it will show "Found networks" and then list out my SSID, "WiFi Connecting to MYSSID", "Timeout while connecting to WiFi", "wifi_apply_hostname_(garage-door-6f6171): lwIP error -16 on interface st (index 0)", "Event: Disconnected ssid='MySSID' bssid=E8:48:B8:21:22:2F[redacted] reason='Association Leave'". I went so far as to disable 5G on the router thinking maybe that would help but it has not
They might work for a day or two or maybe for an hour or two but they always stop working
is this a common issue? Would setting a static IP on them possibly help? If so how do I do that?
"konnected" is a brand or just a funky way to ask if HA->garage works? IE: (yes, web connected)
it's a brand
what's the wifi accespoint/router you are using?
It's a tp-link AX11000 MU-MIMO Tri-Band Gaming Router
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/wifi-issues/407562 - not the help you are looking for though
Home Assistant Community
Hi all I’m new to ESPHome and testing on an ESP8266. It worked at first, but now I get this [23:14:13][W][wifi_esp8266:212]: wifi_apply_hostname_(esp-stua): lwIP error -16 on interface st (index 0) [23:14:13][W][wifi_esp8266:482]: Event: Disconnected ssid='xxx' bssid=[redacted] reason='Association Leave' [23:14:13][W][wifi:536]: Error while co...
Can you issues a static ip address in the device, or only dhcp (static or dynamic)
I added a static for them and that seemed to make it worse. So, I was trying to figure out how to set a static onthe device itself. The Konnected website mentions that is a good idea but does not explain how to do it
so that thread you posted in basically saying throw them away and but something else?
adding a static for them, meaning you statically are issuing a DHCP lease, or statically defined it on the client?
Now I am doing neither. I added a reseveration for them in DHCP but that seemed to make things worse so I removed it. I don't know how to define one on the client.
Not sure if this helps or not but this is the firmware I'm running. https://install.konnected.io/garage-door-opener The ESPHome one in the drop-down
odds are it's NOT ip related, based on the post
you can't make any config changes to that firmware in esphome vs the konnected download directly (I'm grasping here, and not directly familar with the product)
Let me find something to show you. BTW... I am a total noob to home automation
Enjoy the power and flexibility of ESPHome on the Ethernet and PoE enabled Konnected Alarm Panel Pro.
I have the alarm panel too. I think the firmware is not the same. It works with HACS and the door openers do not
New in 2023! Konnected now provides pre-built ESPHome firmware for all Konnected products. We recommend that new Home Assistant users follow these steps
seems to imply they do have ESPHOME configs, but now provide a prebuilt firmware
I can't find that article but somewhere I read that they have a hard time negotiating DHCP requests
https://support.konnected.io/esphome-customization-on-the-garage-door-opener
and then https://esphome.io/components/wifi.html
you can add the "manual_IP" to the esphome description, you won't brick the device, but you may have to re-flash via usb if the network stuff screws up
you may already have that config in esphome on your home assistant
Oh. And I might have it backwards which is supported that way and which is not.
and you just need to add the static ip address to the config, and re-push the config
substitutions:
name: garage-door-6f6171
friendly_name: "Lexus Garage"
packages:
konnected.garage-door-esp8266: github://konnected-io/konnected-esphome/garage-door-esp8266.yaml@master
esphome:
name: ${name}
name_add_mac_suffix: false
api:
encryption:
key: 16Uwzc6Vxhugt30Qch09SwcotgRt0p+bexqX1qu+sCY=
wifi:
ssid: LooneyTunes
password: "XXXXXXXXXXX"
I downloaded the yaml from on using ESPHome. That's it
So do I go to edit to change it?
so you should be able to add:
** manual_ip:
static_ip: 192.168.0.123
gateway: 192.168.0.1
subnet: 255.255.255.0**
but it's up the WIFI: section, so "manual_ip:" should be spaced out to be in-line with SSID
Sorry for being so dumb.....
obviously fix static-ip, gateway and subnet to match yours
When I got to edit on the device in ESPHome there's nothing there. So I need to paste in what I downloaded with the addition of the manual_ip stuff?
you're starting to get into "i don't know specifics for that product" territory for me, but again, worst case it should just fail to update
do you have it listed in the ESPHOME section of the home-assistant GUI?
Right, I do.
that might help explain my question. When I go to edit from your screenshot it's blank
you can paste in the config, and then click update and see what happens 🙂
cool, let me try. thanks man!
it'll compile a new firmware and try to push it out
i'm working on the fact that it's not working now, so absolute case it's still not working 🙂
I see. I've flashed them a million times so that's not an issue if it breaks who cares
I have one connected locally via usb
and one is actually working right now
ok, so we're on the same page, just making sure
Does anyone use shelly duo lightbulbs? I'm having some trouble changing the color temp on the overview screen of HA.
that looks right
you have click update on home page, and it'll compile it and push out a new config
Oh I think I found it
and then you should be able to ping it
you may have to usb connect it, not sure
Yea, let me try the one I have on USB
you can also potentially add the "fast_connect: true" line to try also, as listed in the original bug-report
So that seems to have worked and the logs show it connected to my wifi
I'll add fast_connect to the other one just to see if it's better. But that one is mounted on the garage cealing so I have to go take ti down lol
sounds like a tentative success then
I would say so. It replies to a ping on the IP I gave it
thanks a lot! I've been trying to make these work for nearly a month
you're welcome
cool
thanks again!
see how it goes over the next couple of days before declaring success 🙂
fair enough
I will say though that I've flashed these things a million times and it's never been this easy so that's a victory in my book
yeah, my guess is you're good to go
I think so too
Would have been nice if in those 20 emails back and forth with Konnected support they would have told me to do that
Sort of on the same subject. Do you know what one of the openers would have no actions avilable in automations but the other does?
Crap. This happened before and it was a pain to fix. I think it's the issue though. Somehow in ESPHome both of them show with the same name
you may have to delete and re-add
Actually I fgot it. Never been this easy before. I just renamed one. The entity names were correct so it worked
oh cool, I had to nuke stuff before and re-add, but i've just played with some esp32 dev boards
that's what I had to do last time. And even then it kept coming back wrong. not sure why it just worked this time when I renamed it in ESPHome
well worst case, you have a reproduction process that isn't complex
Can someone recommend me a good WiFi AP? I have ethernet on the place, but WiFi is too weak and WiFi devices keep disconnecting
Hi all! I'm new to HA discord! I am looking for some advise because I'm new to home automation and tasmota.
If I wire everything right,
-
My understand is, I will be able to operate the external switches to ON and tasmota webui to OFF with something like sonoff dualr3. Is this notion right?
-
If my above notion is right, is it it possible for the ifan04 to control fan speed via tasmota and dualr3 to OFF the fan via tasmota, and external switch to ON the fan. Use them all in conjunction?
-
If notion 1 is wrong, how will I be able to use external switches along with tasmota enabled relay switch?
Thank you and any kind of advise and insight is highly appreciated!
PS: Kindly please do not give smart switches as an option because I don't want to change the existing switch.
I tried to connect my Tuya enabled infrared panel to home assistant but it seems like I messed something up.
Hi, I got a new heating system installed (floor heating) and want to use the opportunity to attach a temperature sensor and display to each room (right now there are just two old thermostats for the entire home). I plan to exchange the manual valve heads and reuse the electric onces. I'm wondering which kind of thermometer and display I am going to use, as I would love to use the displays for other purposes as well, basically having a control unit per room. There are candidates like sonoff displays, Shelly displays, Nextion, or using tablets in kiosk mode... What is the best option terms of HA integration and be able to extend it for possible future tasks
As for the sensor I plan to use some wireless units, which allows me to place them at an ideal position in the room. For the valves I considering to use a relay units with a relay for each valve controlled by an Esp via esphome
what do you think you messed up?
Would love to hear about others who added something like this to HA
I have 2 unifi access points, they work pretty well but I also use their switches and firewall so everything integrates together nicely
I would guess most all APs are going to be broadly similar for signal strength, given regulatory limits on broadcast power, etc.
If you have weak signal you might not need good APs but just more APs.
But I also use unifi APs and are happy with them, though I don't have the rest of their ecosystem, they still work well.
I have low signal because the router is far. I have installed ethernet cable to the place and now I want to add an AP in that place
guess it comes down to what features you want. if you just need any wifi, I would just use any old thing you can find for cheap. Other things that will drive the consideration are things like if you want vlans, poe, more options.
Unifi and Omada seem to be the ones I see most recommended if you want some more advanced features.
I only want to connect to my wifi
Probably even a better router with better antena will work 😅
any cheap router in ap mode works
of the wifi rgb bulbs, is there a brand that is easier to integrate or more friendly for local only control? looking around kasa, govee A19 bulbs for outdoor(but enclosed) use.
Kauf bulbs
Can't seem to get the Kasa pan camera KC410S to be found by my home assistant server. I have the Kasa integration and already have a few kasa things integrated
The kasa integration doesn't mention about supporting any cameras. Looks like lights, switches, and plugs only.
Does Anyone have recommendations for an adjustable white smart bulb that works in Home Assistant, I would not mind using Zigbee if it was necessary
i have heard about those
what is the extent that all these wifi bulbs make you register with them to get them onto your wifi and integrated with ha locally?
i havent used anything other than tasmota/esphome thus far.
Def not these damn shelly duo bulbs 😒
So, why do you want to add a smart controller to the fan and then add another smart device that powers things on and off when the ifan can do all that already?
If you want to use the ifan in conjunction with the existing physical switch, look into adding a module like the Shelly 1 or Sonoff Mini that supports detached relay mode/decoupled mode and have the switch trigger an automation that tells the ifan to toggle on/off.
Hey all, since some weeks, I have a RTL2832 dongle, but the Raspberry Pi won't recognise it. I use it for sharing data with Flightradar24. Any idea's how to connect the dongle?
Any recommendations for some recessed RGB cabinet lights that are 12v and fit in a ~2.5in (64mm) hole? Something that can be controlled by either bluetooth, zigbee, or hooked up to an ESP32 running wled or something similar?
I see these that may work: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804639000282.html (the 12V RGBW 3000k one), but not sure how they are controlled.
Which os/distro? Your problem is likely the os, not the hardware or HA
man I cannot get this esp board to be seen over serial no matter what I do. :/
What board? What OS? Do other serial devices work?
https://github.com/emporia-vue-local/esphome
Trying to flash an Emporia Vue. The v5 has a resistor blocking the RXD pin but I bypassed that following this guide https://github.com/emporia-vue-local/esphome/discussions/31
Still no dice. I see my USB adapter has 3.3v out on the TXD, I dont know if i have to have 5.
esptool.py flash_id
Serial port COM21
Connecting......................................
COM21 failed to connect: Failed to connect to Espressif device: No serial data received.```
Looks like you need 5v
Hold the modified end of the cable in IO0 to the metal shield on the ESP32. If you'd like, you can tape it down so that you have both hands free.
While holding it in place, connect 5V on your UART adapter to the VCC_5V0 pin on the board.
Hello guys, i have a RGBW strip attached to a mibox controller wifi
I would like to swap this rgbw wireless controller in order to be able to control the led strip through homeassistant
Can anyone suggest me a way to do it? Every time i try to search i get really confused.
Is it possible to swap easily just by buying a same voltage led controller that supports rgbw or do i need to do anything else?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005004527624562.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&slnk&plac&mtctp&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=19207366554&albag&trgt&crea=it1005004527624562&netw=x&device=c&albpg&albpd=it1005004527624562&gad=1&aff_fcid=16bbc042f318424c9887789053c9bf70-1697966287226-09881-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=16bbc042f318424c9887789053c9bf70-1697966287226-09881-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=403fb358eab648a1b405bc02d4f20613&afSmartRedirect=y
Read at ur own risk, you might lose a few braincells. Basically, I wanted to buy 2x of these type of switches, to use with Shellies behind em
https://www.retrotouch.co.uk/crystal-pulse-retractive-switches/crystal-pg-retractivepulse-light-switch-2-gang-white.html
But then I realized I actually need them to be in a single housing, just like I have mine installed right now
I have Niko rn btw, it says its 83mm wide, these are 86mm but whatever, that aside, this is the housing that they sell:
https://www.retrotouch.co.uk/euro-plates-and-modules/crystal-pg-euro-module-plate-4-gang-white.html
But I need it to be vertical XD and I dont know if it these switch modules will still snap in place if i rotated it... so yeh 🤦♂️ tried looking up vids online but nothing useful
[previously](#hardware-archived message) i was looking for smart plugs but now I have a budget around 150cad. I was looking at HS300 and someone mentioned about having a double relay but I have no knowledge about relay devices so any suggestion for relay devices with consumption monitoring?
do you need relays, or smart plugs you plug into an existing outlet? Do you have Zigbee running?
Click on my previous message but preferably a plug or relay but it needs to have consumption monitoring and I don't have any zigbee or zwave setup
ah, sorry. Missed your previous comment. Are you looking for a wifi controlled one or esphome? I have a couple Athom smart plugs that integrate via esphome. They have power monitoring capabilities.
something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KAUF-Monitoring-ESPHome-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B0BJLGNPPX
Same KAUF firmware you know and love with new and improved hardware. This classic home automation device can be used to switch on and off a device that plugs into a standard U.S. 120-volt wall outlet. Common usages include lamps, box fans, and Christmas lights. Power monitoring lets you know how ...
but that assumes you have/run esphome
Anyone using an old Kindle for a slow refresh dashboard? (weather, daily calendar, etc.) I've been having several really annoying issues with mine that I can't solve.
sorry, looks like it's backordered right now
Any works for me as long it doesn't require a hub, I have multiple routers and I can pull one of my router to have a dedicated router for it.
Hi I'm just looking for some advice on a Google Coral. I'm running HAOS on a dell optiplex, with frigate add on. Should I get the USB version or would it be better to get an add on card for an m.2 version?
If you have the option then m.2 over USB IMO
@winged knoll is there anything special I'll have to do is the set up or will either work if I follow some documentation
Well... try following the docs?
if they don't work then you can provide feedback, but I'd assume the docs have what you need
@winged knoll okay thanks a lot. Now I gotta convince my wife to buy me one so I can buy other stuff lol
See if your motherboard has an E key m.2 slot
A lot of them have an e key for Wi-Fi/BT and you can swap with a coral e key m.2
Hey, I would like to setup a homeassistant server and upgrade my appartment with smart devices. I am completely overwhelmed by all the chinese rebrands and brands i never heared of before. I already bought 8 zigbee E27 socket lamps because I got them for a great discount but i am still looking for european Thermostatesand and window open and closed sensors. Does anyone have any recommendations ?
For Zigbee sensors Xiaomi is a good choice, as are Linkind, 3Reality, Hue, and Develco
Xiaomi's E1 and T1 ranges are Zigbee 3.0, unlike the older ones which are just 1.2
Gotcha , do you also have a recommendation for carbon monoxide detectors ? I will check xiaomis products now 🙂 thamks already
See the above brands, they may do some 
I use Zigbee2MQTT so their supported devices list is my usual starting point
I check it out thank you 🙂 have to do a lot of reading anyway 🙂
If you have a zwave mesh there are a few good options
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-800-series-z-wave-long-range-dc-signal-sensor these take existing interconnect alarms and make them smart
The Smartest House
SAFE ALERTS PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Beta Release This device may not be fully integrated with your hub at the time of purchase. You may need to update the firmware of the device after the purchase. Quick reports to your hub for low-voltage trigger signals, including interconnected hard wired smoke and CO detectors by al
https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-SCO7CN-Combination-Monoxide/dp/B0002CWXZG this is a battery only combo alarm
The First Alert PC900V Combination Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm provides maximum protection and has a new sleek, slimmer design, which adds an element of style to safety. The PC900V has a modern, thin square design that's less than an inch thick (half the size of a standard alarm), while still...
Home Assistant Core, 2023.10.1. Now updating to 2023.10.5
The Sonoff S31 that was linked above can also be bought with the stock Sonoff firmware and flashed with esphome or Tasmota very easily. All you need is a screwdriver, a USB UART dongle, and some test hooks.
Evening everyone, I am looking for advice to get temperature sensors (multi sensors are OK) for 13 rooms across 3 floors.
I am planning on getting a SkyConnect so will have Zigbee available. Has anyone here mass tracked their temperature across their house and what sensors do you use?
I keep seeing these cheap ones from AliExpress but I honestly have no experience with these yet
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004728929707.html
Skip
If you really want cheap sensors get https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Tuya_IH-K009.html
Idk if this is the right place to ask, but does anyone know if Lewis’ presence sensors can also act as bt proxies AND microphones for assist?
Thanks @zealous dune for the recommendation. I think* I have seen these ones reviewed on a YT video and they too came recommended. Do you have any of these already?
What home theater receiver features should I look for that means they will be compatible with Home Assistant or are any particular brands HA friendly?
So as far as reliable smoke alarms that integrate with HA, should I go ahead and add zwave to my system or are there Zigbee options that I can trust?
I don't recommend things I don't use
They are nice, send updates every minute
Do you know of any 433Mhz bridges with something similar to Zigbee2Mqtt. Tasmota only seems to support the sonoff one and the only sonoff bridges now available are not fully supported to control stuff like blinds and curtains
433mhz has nothing to do with zigbee
When i used 433 i used integration with Animus Heart.
Worked great
Hi all, can anyone recommend some smart battery operated RGB lights? Something that I could leave in a window that doesnt have an electrical plug nearby
I'm looking at a simple way to do some halloween and christmas decorations. I figured some coloured smart lights in my house windows would be a simple way to decorate for the season
I asked for something similar to the zigbee2mqtt I also gave an example of tasmota I am aware they are not the same
I like to keep my stuff away from 433mhz because it just doesn't work for me. not even in the same room
Yeah it really sucks but unless I want to sleep on the sofa for an indefinite amount of time I rather not mess with blinds and curtains picked out… curtains is a relatively easy fix blinds not so much
Probably a dumb question. My work threw away some DSC PG9984P sensors. Is there an easy way I could take them home and use them for home automation?
They seem to be using an own wireless standard (PowerG) 🤔
So I would probably need more dsc stuff to be able to connect it to HA?
As far as I see, the DSC integrations just interact with the alarm control panel (via a connection device) and show zone status, not the sensors itself. But take this with a grain of salt - I don't use them.
Ok so you have existing motorized blinds and curtains that have what, 433mhz RF remotes?
I can second the usage of OpenMQTTGateway. currently using it with an ESP32 and a high gain antenna for repurposing a few temp/humidity sensors around the house. RTL_433 should cover a lot of ground.
Yep it appears to be some brand called Dooya
And they just have remotes, there's no two way communication with some kind of hub?
HA forums seems to have all the RF codes for this dooya product but I don’t see how I can use that with OpenMQTT
Nope just motors and a 15/16 channel remote it can control multiple motors at the same time
There is RM Pro which works and people have used it successfully but I don’t want to have to use their app for anything
Ok so you just need something like a broadlink rm4 or bond bridge
Bond bridge?
Same type of device as the RM4
All this would not be an issue if So off just left their RF bridges alone
Their V2.2 messed everything up, best thing I can do is to try and find old stock which I can buy
And hope there are any R1s or R2s V1.0
So what are the new versions? Not flashable?
And regarding the broadlink rm4, you would only need their app to get it connected to your Wi-Fi network
After that because of the way the broad link integration works all the code storage, programming, stuff like that you would be doing in home assistant
If you have a spare remote or if you want to buy one to tear up, you could also do some #diy-archived stuff, solder an esp32 to the buttons and build your own cloud free smart controller that way. Don't ask me exactly how that works I just know it's usually possible.
They are but you need the portish firmware on it communicate with non sonoff rf devices
Figured. Thanks for the help. 🙂
Right so you flash Tasmota, flash the Portisch firmware to the secondary controller chip, and you're in business, right?
Yes but the V2.2 doesn’t work with portish anymore
where do you guys go to get large touchscreens? i'm trying to find one that's 12" or ideally 15+, but can't seem to find any good options
Just a screen or does it need to run android or something?
I'd look on eBay for used kiosk hardware
Hello, can anyone here help me with Skyconnect issue?
Ask your question and find out: https://dontasktoask.com/
Ok I tried to install Silicon Labs Multiprotocol add on on my HA to get both Thread and Zigbee working via Skyconnect but now getting zigbee errors and can't communicate with my zigbee devices
You have to point your #zigbee-archived integration at the add-on
The use of the multi-protocol add-on is not recommended though 😉
As long as you don't sneeze around it its stable 😛
Sneezing is known to cause inference to wireless protocols
Yes I know, I did point it to the the add on
#zigbee-archived can help you if you tell them whether you're using ZHA or Zigbee2MQTT
ok thank you, I'll try that
Hi there! Which mmwave-sensor do you guys recommend for presence detection?
Everything Presence
So they all work the same? 🙂
No that's the name of the device.
I don't know if this is the right place to ask but can anyone recommend a wifi or bluetooth power switch that can handle a space heater and somewhat moist environments? I have an airplane hangar that isn't sealed well so there can be moister in the air.
https://byjasco.com/enbrighten-z-wave-plus-direct-wire-indooroutdoor-smart-switch-40a this is the only thing i can think of that is high amp and outdoor rated but it's zwave
Thank you. Looks pretty overkill.
you want overkill with a space heater...
many smart plugs (indoor only) are rated for 15a or 12a but cant handle loads sustained at those high amps
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-700-series-z-wave-plus-outdoor-smart-plug-zen05 this might work and is much smaller
The Smartest House
Take Z-Wave Outdoors PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Single outlet with on/off Z-Wave control for outdoor Holiday lights, patio lights, small pumps or motors under 1/3 hp, and other appliances under 15 A resistive power (no dimming control) Weather and impact resistant housing withstands damp or wet conditions (IP65 rated) DO NOT
That one looks nice. The space heater is just going to be temporary. I am going to install a block heater which only uses 300 watts.
Yeah leaving a space heater running unattended is usually a big no-no but if you have to, you want overkill on whatever you're using to control it
i could see the switch-bot and a proper electrical switch as a space heater solution
bruh
Ya, I don't like the idea. lol. But I need like 3 hours of heat to warm my engine up.
Thank you! I was looking for some ideas and advise like this. Shelly devices are hard to find where I live. So sonoff with tasmota is the way to go for me. Does tasmota sonoff dualr3 support detached relay mode?
My plan is I want to use the default external switches because it gives a particular look to the house. Family members will not be happy if change them. So I want to use the tasmota dualr3 to ON/OFF the light and fan. And use the ifan to control fan speed. Most importantly, While still using the external switches to ON/OFF the light and fan.
So is this possible with tasmota ifan and dualr3? I don't just want the ifan to ON/OFF... I want to control speed with the ifan, use dualr3 and external switches to ON/OFF. So what kind of automation should be set for this?
lol
You wouldn't want the R3 because that doesn't support an external switch. You want to get a Sonoff MiniR4 and then flash that with your preferred firmware.
ree esphome ree
Provided you have a neutral wire in your switch box.
2x sonoff minir4 because 1 for the light and the other for the fan? I believe minir4 is 1 gang right? Also, I should use this in detached relay mode with the ifan and external switch, right?
And I do have neutral wire
Do you have separate switches for the light and fan?
Yes seperate switches
Ok then yeah you'd need one for each switch and then set them to detached mode, which I think will give you two entities each in HA, someone correct me if I'm wrong, one for the switch and one for the relay. Then you just use the switch to automate shutting the fan on and off and leave the relay on, let all the actual control happen in the ifan.
Can you please tell me how did you know that the minir4 supports external switches and not the dualr3? Where do I look for this information in the sonoff website?
Hold on. I was wrong it does I just looked at the wrong picture.
So tasmota flashed dualr3 supports right?
Idk if it does the detached relay though, which is kind of important if you want to use a device like that to control other smart devices.
Thank you, I'll give it a try. Hopefully the detached relay mode will help me use the external switches and tasmota webui whenever needed.
can anyone recommend an extremely small window sensor for velux roof windows ? Zigbee or Tuya
i have seen z wave stripes so narrow
small as in how small?
smallest on market
that would be https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Xiaomi_MCCGQ01LM.html
like the z waves stripes
nope
there used to be a single stip like sensor but the battery life was poor
and where to change the battery
Sensative also do a LoRa version
On the strip, you don't
(had a bunch of the Z-Wave Sensative strips, did love them)
can't remember the brand dammit
yes thats the one
The Terncy sensors are pretty damn small - they just don't play with TI coordinators
i put my xiaomi ones inside PVC windows
and some tuya ones fit inside doors without the shell
I want it to be recognised as open even if you only press the handle to open it. Maybe people know what I mean about a Velux roof window.
i never looked at how Velux windows actually work. Is there a latch inside like on multipoint lock doors?
there's a door sensor hiding under that tape 😄
You could at least have used white tape
i wanted to but lost all motivation to do it when i couldn't find it
wait
i show u a pic what i want
i need to put a sensor in the red marked area
that the window is recognised as open in the handle position even when it is closed.
some ideas?
are such narrow strips also available with replaceable batteries?
Not seen any of that style with replaceable batteries
Has anyone ever opened such a stripe and tried to replace the battery or is it definitely broken?
I'm sure it's possible, if you're good at soldering and get a compatible battery
Not going to be easy though
Maybe the magnet of a door sensor on the outside of the handle and the sensor on the window frame - so far up that it triggers as soon as the magnet is moved downwards with the handle? 🤔
you would have to look at it nevertheless it would have to be extremely small the ones from sonoff would be too big
That's metal on the inside of the handle, right?
If the PCB of the door sensor fits inside one of those indentations, you could desolder the reed switch and use some wire as contact to the handle. If the handle is closed, the wires are electrically connected via the handle and if is opened they are not 🤔
Or solder the wires to the reed switch
Or... try some magnetic tape on the inside of the handle if it triggers the reed switch
And don't use black electrical tape 😆
I feel attacked
Black electrical tape on a white window is not very stealthy
during the day
So I got my Athom wled bulb today
Set it up
Tried to integrate it
No dice because the bulb supports CCT. "wled device 'xxxxx' has a CCT channel, which is not supported by this integration"
Apparently there's a PR that's been in limbo for like a year that would fix that but yeah. I guess I should have looked into that before I bought it.
Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but I'm curious if I could easily find a "smart" lock. More like a padlock. I am mainly interested in tracking open/close. Would consider a smart lock box, too.
Anyone know of any switched that go over the existing switch like the Lutron one does but not a dimmer? Just regular buttons?
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Aurora-Dimmer-Philips-Z3-1BRL-WH-L0/dp/B07RJ14FBS/ Basically this without the dimmer
Did you know Philips Hue smart bulbsare only active when the light switch is in the on/up position? If the switch is accidentally turned off or Wi-Fi connection is lost, the Philips Hue smart bulbs no longer operates from any control source (wireless app, remote, or voice). The Aurora “Always Rea...
What would be a good pir, mmwave, temp and humidity, brightness sensor? (either zigbee or wifi)
in home assistant, using the Alexa intagration, i have 7 devices listed, i only use 5 in my home, 2 are at my moms place, am i sool trying to hide them from view?
maybe im answering my own question, but im assuming that since its linked to the amazon account, it just list all devices regardless. But has anyone been able to hide them anyhow i guess is the real question. Just doing Home cleaning and organizing and was curious.
You should be able to disable those entities in HA.
it kept showing up even after i did, then i rebooted the system, not just reset and there gone. weird but worked
Hi, someone have set a samsung ty or lg tb to open a webpage on startup in full screen?
If you would build a house and use some sort of "KNX" alternative that works better with HA (and also easier to install) what would you use? one requirement is lamps should be dimmable.
i was thinking Shelly Pro, but its only relays
there are relay boards with PWM dimmers that are centrally mounted
with support for zigbee, tasmota or any other open system? :)
can you send me?
12/24v, is there any alternative with 230v? :D
not as a finished product
bummer.. what you send me is really close what i want
if you're installing things wired like that you usually do it from scratch whcih means installing 12V lighting
i dont like like my roof looking like a swiss cheeze with spotlights
i like the downlights more, and IMO its nicer to have 230v hanging lights over a table for example :)
KNX works pretty good with HA though 😉
I know you’ve gotta have a bias being the knx integration maintainer but would you actually plan to use knx if you’re building a new house in 2023 and knew you’d be using home assistant?
I would. Imho it's still the least bad wired system available.
I recently got a client in a very expensive custom home who wants to move to home assistant and I’m gonna have to rip out and redo so much stuff
Example after walking in the front door lol
So it's quite solid for wall switches, presence detection, heating stuff etc. that should just work. You can always couple other systems to it (eg. with HA)
I might start working with a custom home builder on new homes so something like knx would be a decent wired option I think
Morning all. I'm exploring possibly implementing a Presence Sensor into my setup. (Looking at the Aqara FP2, Everything Presence Lite or Everything Presence One).
I have a room with an electrical outlet in the center of the ceiling. I'm trying to figure out how functional Presence Sensors are when ceiling mounted rather than wall mounted or facing straight ahead.
Can anyone speak to if adequately functional presence detection is viable with ceiling mounted Presence Sensors?
Apparently the fp2 is buggy and should be avoided at this time
Functionality will depend on the sensor and ceiling height too
Its a matter of coverage that depends on the presence sensor fov
While their detection distance can range from 4 to 10m
That was the consensus I was seeing.
Ceiling installs can't cover large rooms by themselves
Can you elaborate on what you mean by 'by themselves'?
FP2 is trying to do too much so it doesn't do the thing it should consistently
Meaning a single presence sensor cannot cover large rooms naturally depending on the ceiling height
The implication being two or more might be adequate where one was not?
Compared to walled install
It's all circumstantial to your situation
Does anybody know a battery-powered, local first video doorbell? I can find battery, and local, but not both easily
I should build and sell these it seems like its a gold mine
take my money please. 🙂
I do like how the reddit threads answer the question with: "Well, what if you assemble and build your own hardware and software for it?"
like... sure, that's a solution. Just like "how can I buy my first house" can be answered with: "well, have you thought of a log cabin, built by hand with trees felled by your axe?"
you'll need a hammer also to get those logs together 🙂
Get your Kickstarter going...
kickstarter: plans to buy an axe and hammer, so you can fell your trees and build a HOUSE!
Sounds like something that Sears sold early in the 20th century
They'll sell you the plans and tools, you only need to add the house
delivered by that new fangled railroad.
this was in the interwebs recently - https://www.amazon.com/ECOHOUSEMART-House-FRAMING-D33H-986-brown/dp/B09MBXW7G2
I mean chances are someone's already done it, you'd just need to follow their example.
the wife-factor would be low for any home built thing though, which is the bigger hurdle. Not much oppotunity for a sleek enclosure when it has to fit an rpi or something
It would probably be something more like a nodemcu or d1 mini but yeah I get it. So do you need two-way audio? What exactly are you looking for in your smart doorbell?
Hi i bought and installed new "smart light switch" it is connected with neutral but when the light is on it continuously flickers i am in canada and using the inovelli blue switch any one might know something about this.
so I got a second router and connected it to the first router, how do I make devices in the second router accessable to the first router? I set up this route thing but it doesn't seem like I can see the devices that are connected to 192.168.1.191 (aka 192.168.50.1) For example on the second router there is a camera at 192.168.50.20
You might be able to put it in an access point mode rather than as a full router. You don't need the second one serving DHCP requests or a separate nat from your main network
Otherwise you'll be punching port forwards all over the place
I see
I dont know if AP mode is compatable with the existing mesh network thats why I set it up seperatly (and to open up a new wifi channel)
AP mode is compatible, it won't be part of the mesh
Ok I am changing it to AP mode
Do I need to do anything special like changing the lan cable that connects it to the router from WAN to LAN?
if you are adding an access-point to your LAN, you want both sides plugged in LAN usually
Ok I think that worked, that was much easier than I was worried about
Very thankful for this community and all the help 🙂
I've heard there are a lot of low quality air quality/CO2 sensors out there and the legit ones are more expensive. I'm fine paying more, but how do you differentiate the two?
the super high end Dyson fans report PM 2.5, PM 10, a Nitrogen Dioxide index, VOC index, temperature and humidity, formaldehyde
should always take readings with a grain of salt though. I can influence the readings by operating a ham radio
Look for NDIR sensors
I wonder if this is any good
From what I've heard, anything prepackaged selling for under like $100 is probably only an approximate
One thing you'll need to consider is the sensors for some of those more "exotic" gases have quite short lifespans.
Milesight (LoRa sensors I use) only quote a 6y lifespan for their HCHO sensor (not even sure how realistic that is), and I've seen some DIY ones only claiming 2.
What did we just say about the price?
Ok thanks. Found this one https://www.adafruit.com/product/4867
Take a deep breath in...now slowly breathe out. Mmm isn't it wonderful? All that air around us, which we bring into our lungs, extracts oxygen from and then breathes out carbon dioxide. ...
Overpriced
This one also looks good though? https://www.adafruit.com/product/5190
But doesn't seem to be ndir
And about the same price so I'm guessing also overpriced? lol
Blakadder’s Smarthome Shenanigans
The Grove all-in-one environmental sensors from Seeed Studio (SEN54 and SEN55) detect various pollution indicators and can be used to monitor air quality in enclosed spaces. They’re built to easily implement into your DIY sensor project and I’ll show you how to use it with Tasmota.
For CO2 get an MHZ-19
SCD41 is good as well
But you'll be fine with 40
yeah what is the difference?
That always catches me on these sensors. No difference in the description
Between the 40 and 41 I mean
Nvm I see it in the technical details now
Only a $5 difference though to feel cooler with the higher end one?
Ah the MHZ I saw on the esphome page. How does this compare to the SCDs?
Yeah I guess they're both "real" co2 sensors though
Wonder how they differ. Always just find that stuff interesting
Seems like a great resource
Good read
It's so fascinating how there are these sophisticated sensors packed into something so tiny
Also just all the different types are fascinating. Like I was browsing the ESPHome page and there's one that detects nearby lightnight. So I assume you could theoretically get a heads up of an incoming storm even if off the (internet) grid
Cool, so basically one uses light and one uses sound
hikers listen to NOAA weather reports on channel 162.550
the station sends out a tone burst if there's an emergency alert
Yeah but that isn't as cool as holding a lightning detector in your hand!
Think I'll probably go with the SCD4 since it also has humidity
Interesting that this packaged m5stack one is cheaper than the bare board:
https://shop.m5stack.com/products/co2-unit-with-temperature-and-humidity-sensor-scd40
https://www.adafruit.com/product/5187
m5stack-store
UNIT CO2 is a photoacoustic Carbon Dioxide (CO2 sensor) Unit that will tell you the CO2 PPM (parts-per-million) composition of ambient air. With a built-in Sensirion SCD40 sensor, power by Buck converter circuitry, and I2C communication. It has a range of 400~2000 ppm with an accuracy of ±(50 ppm + 5% of reading).
an SCD40 is 15$ on AliExpress
What about a case?
it would ruin the temperature and humidity readings
Even a perforated one like the m5stack one?
do you sweat more naked or in a perforated jumpsuit?
I have a feeling that blakadder.com has done a comparison and has the receipts
depends if I'm surounded by people
See here on my blog....
a perforated jumpsuit would still be more awkward, lots of explaining to do
To what extent were your measurements negatively affected by a perforated cover?
to the extent of not showing the real values
Normally I don't care too much, I'm a backend engineer, but I have been trying when possible to clean things up a bit on the "frontend"
I mean if it's not the real value off by .00001% then I'll go with the cover
Rob said you might have the "receipts" so thought I'd ask 🙂
Yeah that's what I'm saying. Is it 2 deg C? What about the affect on the CO2 reading?
the m5stack also converts 5v to 3.3v inside the case for some reason so thats extra heating
Yeah I noticed that...
Might just go with the m5stack and baseline it against something else then offset
Though I know those aren't always linear. If I'm wrong I'm wrong. No better way to learn then making mistakes!
don;t compare to anything else and you wont know anyway
usually people care
I mean you said the case would "ruin" it so I thought you were saying it was pretty bad
it is but you think you'll fix it in post so its not that relevant to you
Well that's tbd lol
@zealous dune Just finished reading your write up of that all in one sensor. Sounds pretty cool too. Are you using it for anything atm? Or just like a general air quality sensor for your house?
its a general air sensor in my workshop
Nice, that's a good spot for it
Hello, im connecting two esp together via REST API.
/sensor/termo_nr_2
response:
{
"id": "sensor-termo_nr_2",
"value": 23.275,
"state": "23.3 °C"
}
This lamda cannot parse value:
- lambda: |-
json::parse_json(id(termo_nr_2).get_string(),[](JsonObject root){id(template_sensor_id).publish_state(root["value"]);});
error: JSON parse error: InvalidInput
Can someone help me? Thank you
Sounds like a question for another channel? Doesn't seem hardware related
If you're using Tasmota or ESPHome they have their own Discords
Otherwise #diy-archived can probably help if you tell them what you're running on the ESPs
is there any zigbee motion sensors that reset faster?
faster than....
yes sorry, ikeas motion sensors
which reset.... how fast?
no idea took like 5 minutes
The Develco MOSZB-140 goes down to 10 to 20 seconds
My hue motion sensors seem like they're more-or-less realtime?
But I think "presence" is different to "motion"
The Aqara P1 can be set down to 10 seconds, though it takes ~60 seconds from last motion to clear
this morning
There's an occupancy timeout setting in hue, but I've no idea what it does. Mine seems to be set to zero
seems like a delta. goes plus/minus. Google says it supports down to 10 seconds. https://www.reddit.com/r/Hue/comments/zbdj0r/indoor_motion_sensor_how_to_reduce_timeout/
I've got a ledstrip i want to smarten up
Got an sunricher zigbee driver would that work or is there better stuff
What led strip, what driver?
10 second cooldown on my hue motion sensors into hue hub -> configured in "another app" -> HA integration
This is pretty cool, I've been using the nearby WAQI sensor not sure how much of a difference it makes to have one right next to you
Hey it's all the same air around the entire Earth, no difference...
in that it's an oxygen/nitrogen mix in rougly the same proportions 🙂
I am not super educated on how it works, was surprised to see that some WAQI stations does not have ozone
Hi, I have the SONOFF Zigbee TI CC2652P adapter and I'm trying to add Ikea Tradfri and Philips Hue bulbs to my home assistant. If I set up mqtt and zigbee2mqtt then I don't need to purchase an Ikea or Philips Hue hub/gateway correct?
Correct
Thank you. Just need to get zigbee2mqtt up and working first.
well
you will have to put the bulbs into pairing mode if they are not brand new
the z2m products page lists various ways to do that
Finally got it working. Thanks everyone for the help
Hiya. I recently found that running HA on a SD card Pi is not so future-proof. If I would buy an SSD, would that be fine? So far things have been great so would rather not completely replace the RPi if I do not have to.
SSD would be fine, though you may need a powered USB hub too (and you certainly will if you have other USB devices)
I only have a Zigbee dongle attached to the Pi for now
I'd always recommend using one regardless just to avoid the risk of data loss and system crashes
But I will consider the USB power hub as well, thanks!
Well, then you'll certainly need a powered hub
Would I then still use the USB extension cable for the Zigbee dongle?
Yes
Ok perfect, thanks!
That cable doesn't provide power after all 😉
All it does is move the stick away from the RF noise
Well, that hub is also a source of noise
Ah yes of course. Do you have an example for a powered usb hub? Just so I have some reference
Awesome, many thanks Tinkerer!
Can you recommend a smoke detector and radiator thermostat that are reliable? Zigbee or Tuya
Country?
Germany
Someone any ideas what the best thermostat is to get zoned heating? I have already one valve actuator but this depends on the themperature of the living room (were the google nest is now) i want to have my boiler to heat when even i set a temperature in a different room than the one with my Nest
Guys, I’m tearing my hair out here. I have a bunch of zigbee devices in my kitchen but they can’t be picked up by my Sonoff dongle in the basement connected to HA. What is the easiest and most affordable hub I need to get to shove into the wall to coordinate these devices in ha?
Can I get a USB hub and use a power adapter or is the antenna not able to do both WiFi and zigbee? Seems like such a common use case I don’t understand what I’m missing here but surely you his don’t have raspberries with dongles on each floor in your house?
Your devices are too far away from the coordinator. You either extend the mesh with router devices or relocate the coordinator by using an Ethernet connected gateway
Yeah… that’s sort of summarizing my question. Now to the answers…
What are the commonly used devices for this?
Do I just get a Aqara m2 hub or are there more versatile devices?
Most of my bulbs are zigbee, and that forms a mesh throughout my home. the signal hops from one to the next to the next, etc etc. if you can get mains powered zigbee devices between your dongle and your devides in the kitchen, it should work. mains powered is important, because battery ones tend not to forward signals. (mains ones might not, but likely will. battery won't.)
Also, hubs create new Zigbee meshes, which is the opposite of what you want
Buy Zigbee plugs, like Innr
an example of an ethernet connected gateway is something like a SLZB-06. which gets round the problem by putting your zigbee coordinator physically closer. (but now you need to connect it to the same network.)
I have tons of Philips hue which should be able to help then or?
Yes, if you join them to that mesh, and don't cut power to them
Hmm but they are already happy with a hue bridge.
i have sengled smart plugs zigbee units as a parallel zigbee network
with sonoff temp sensors and ikea buttons hooked up to them
and a hue network parallel connected to hue-hub
or you could get a zigbee-ethernet unit as mentioned above
I think this is the way. Sonoff has anything worth looking at?
That isn’t €120 😂
Or Tuya
No
Wow
Tubes, athom or the smlight already recommended above
sengled smart plugs in the US are less than $15 each 🙂
this means you are already running two zigbee networks btw
@jagged crypt yeah, I got that... but the SLZB06 can act as repeaters right, or do they always form their own networks?
if you just need a router, that seems like overkill. If you want a remote coordinator, then fine, a third zigbee network in your house. Whatever you want is kind of waht the recommendations are coming in for you....
do you want tinker, or just have crap work?
(both are valid goals, but vastly different paths)
haha, I like to tinker but after that the crap must continue to work on its own... that however I have never achieved in my lifetime 😄 I ordered a SLZB06M btw, seemed like a really neat device
Hello, what is the best possible way to run Homeassistant? Is it the Raspberry PI?
It is not
the way that works for you within the cost requirements you have
What's the budget?
but now I'm looking at Sengel plug as well, it could be just as easy to litter the house with those or similar. But they don't seem to brag about zigbee but matter... is matter on top of zigbee or should I look at other plugs to act as small repeaters?
sengled or innr wall plugs would be routers on your zigbee network, and paired up to your coordinator.
if blackadder suggest innr over sengled, grab those instead 🙂
It doesn't matter at first. If it's worth the money, what kind of obzions are there?
I mean if there's no budget go nuts with a true server
what's the automation goal? couple lights? lots of lights, and some cameras? camera's with AI detction? lots of additional add-ons?
I don't, all my Zigbee plugs are Tuya 😀
So it’s a big house 😅 Many Lights some Sensors maybe some Cameras. But first I want to now witch different good Options there are
Any CPU from gen 6 onwards
You really need to have some parameters to make a choice
the questions are being asked because what your goal is will change what you need. Much like asking, what's the "BEST" car to buy. Are you driving on highways or just offroad?
All I can say is don't buy toys to be your home server
btw, PSA, these are back in stock - https://shop.m5stack.com/products/atom-echo-smart-speaker-dev-kit
You can disable link preview in Discord by adding < before and > after the URL, like this: <http://home-assistant.io/>
i can delete the preview also
Paul, some of us use old SFF machines with proxmox hypervisor and HAOS in a VM - https://www.servethehome.com/introducing-project-tinyminimicro-home-lab-revolution/
So I have it, 28 roller shutters, 35 Lights and many sockets, 20 Thermostats and everything should be automated
Basically all the smart devices are in the bytes per second range of processing, it takes quite a few to actually stress a machine
until you toss in camera processing
Or assist pipeline 🙂
Hello everyone, what do you use best for HA as a room thermometer with display? For controlling heating and air conditioning. Thanks
A tablet with HA dashboard
Which operating system does Homeassistant have to run on? Linux?
Well, any in the supported list 😉
See the topic of the #installation-archived channel
(it even runs on unsupported OS's if they support Python and you know what you're doing)
GarlicOS 🙂
you can guess what they need
Incidentally a real thing
lol
Please tell me it's based on NetBSD 
It's a portable emulator console thingie OS, probably some form of Linux underneath
Dammit
Xiaomi Miija Bluetooth sensors for around 5€ a pop. Plus some Esphome proxies
Any Aqara US smartplug users find there are some devices (lamps) that you just cannot seem to insert into the receptacle? I've got some devices (Anker pwoer bricks) that plug in stiffly, but do insert while the devices I really want to plug in (boring old lamps) that I cannot insert at all. I've verifed the neutral/load side (and reversing the lamp plug doesn't fit at all). This has happened on two different Aqara smartplugs, so it's not just a manufacturing thing (or so I think). Really bizare.
From the exploded view sort of looks like it has a tamper resistant receptacle, I think they can be a bit tricky to engage correctly sometimes.
https://www.aqara.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Multiple-Safeguards-In-Place-to-Ensure-Your-Safety.jpg
You need to lift that shutter when you insert the plug, it has to be inserted perfectly straight, could try wiggling it a bit. If the progs are bent at all it might not work correctly.
See ^
That seems to match up with what I'm experiencing. I've tried extensive wiggling to no effect. I wish there was some sort of manual override for the shutter. Short of disassembling the plug, that is. 😄
And thank you! ❤️
Ah. I'm able to make it work if I stick a small screwdriver into the grounding plug and force the shutter up. A hack, but it works. Just never change what's plugged into this. 😛
i was just wondering, how overkill can i make home assistant? without it being a complete waste of money? are there ram cpu limitations? thanks
limitations? no
oh ok. i got alot of spare hardware, but i would like to build kinda the one and done standalone, or go buy a top of the line nuc.
you can run it on pretty much anything, from potato to latest and greatest
look at the requirements though
Hardware requirements depend on what else you want to do with it too
ok cool, yeh requirements are low, i want it to do all the things. for like 5 years atleast.
"all the things" is a very vague statement considering what all it can do
im building a jonsbo n3 its my plex and torrent and server, i was thinking of virtual box the home assistant on it, but then i do have to re start it here and there for windows updates and other stuff.
windows is a very bad os for servers imo
you will not be happy
put linux on it, be 100 times more efficient
yeh i know it is vague, i havent looked into all the things, but i own alot of lights and switches and cameras, and ill buy, mess around with what ever interests me.
i know, i need some windows things that are not in linux, i get going then i want to start adding thunderbolt devices, might stick a 4080 in it, i change my mind alot, i have other setups.
linux can pass through anything you want
virtualize windows
if you really need it
hint: you don't on a server
i like linux, just not experienced enough, every time i setup, i end up killing it, cause i think i screwed it up. not a windows fan boy, but i know the most
i have a Z590 that im putting in a 11900k and 64 gig of ram mini itx, is what im starting with. i got a sonnettech card that has 2 nvme and usb c 10gb and 10gbe also on one pcie 3.0 x8 card
linux would love that
i got time to try linux again, i gotta see if drivers for the hardware
no drivers needed, its linux not windows
yeh its a pc/mac card, i buy from sonnettech cause there hardware is allways both, and i think linux also?
Multifunction PCIe Card with dual NVMe M.2 SSD slots, 10GbE Port, and 10Gbps USB-C ports. For Mac, Windows, and Linux.
it is linux
allright gonna do that, what version you recomend?
start with proxmox
ok, i think i saw a sujestion for a video on that just recently on youtube
it'll make the transition to linux easier for you, you can start vms with clicky clacky
yeh i want to make it bare metal, as much as possible. cool, it does plex and uttorent?
if you want to make it bare metal you will need to learn linux
in that case I suggest debian
you can install proxmox on debian also, very easy
yeh, well i got time, i can leave my devices running the way they are at the momment, and i have my x299 rig running plex uttorrent right now.
I have no idea what that means
oh my x299 intel machine/server with windows.
windows bad server
its just a asus workstation board with 10gbe and thunderbolt built in, yes server in name, but just running windows 11 with a bunch of shared hard drives. and a bunch of capture cards.
good night when it decides to update on its own
my main use of server is store a bunch of stuff, i can network to it fast and have plex on it and utorrent and sometimes i setup a game server/lan on it. i just test and learn things, i drive a public bus as my $$$
i dont stress over backups, i got duplicates on many drives and one drive
the learning curve with todays distros is very steep, you also get thrown a lot of warnings into your face when doing stoopid things
docker is here to help you, as are vms
with docker and vms you barely ever have to touch the os
so the likeliness of you breaking something goes against 0
but it is never actually 0
i started with IBM Home director in the early 90's and X10 stuff, then messed around with windows xp media center addition. i just like this stuff.
give proxmox a try, with a windows vm and another linux vm on top of that it will still perform better than your windows server
experiment in the linux vm, you can take snapshots as you go
ok, cool i will do, yep that sounds interesting, need to learn all that anyways. 👍
last time i ran home assistant, was over a year ago on windows with the virtual box. but i trashed/sold/tore down that rig. now starting again, with this new case, thats cool, fits 8 sata drives.
yep jonsbo n3
might watercool?
air most likely
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZcOlW-DwrU this what im watching
Visit https://Linode.com/CraftComputing to start your $100, 60-Day Trial, and move your services to your own personal cloud today!
It's been a while since I've updated my tutorial videos, so today, let's install Proxmox 8.0! This is a beginner's guide to the installation, with step-by-step instructions for installing Proxmox, setting up your fi...
There’s a couple of good proxmox + home assistant ones. Eg Derek seaman or something like that
it works, but i've been dealing with linux for 30 years....
thanks!
Anyone here a Daikin expert?
I have a bunch of these Mini Splits which the previous owners seem to have imported from Asia and I cannot find any documentation on these or well about their equivalent models
These have a S403 port which needs to be converted to a S21 port with this interface adapter and there are 3 different model numbers of this interface adapter with their matching indoor units but I cant seem to match them with my units
Do you have any access to control them apart of the RF remote?
I am using https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/daikin/ for my multisplit
Hi, I am searching for a smart lock compatible with home assistant. But here is the thing:
to open the door, I have to "hold" my key to the right and then push the door (no handle on the outside)
to close the door, I can choose to turn the key ones or twice ("normal" lock and extra pins)
So I need a smart lock with following states:
- open (hold the key slightly to the right for example 5 seconds)
- "idle" (not closed, not open, just the "thingy" from the handle on the inside in the hole)
- closed ones (normal lock)
- closed twice (with extra pins)
Bonus question: what is the name of such a lock (very common in belgium)
My units dont have that I am trying to add them using openmqtt and esp faikin project. For that I need a S21 port and on older units without the S21 port daikin has these interface boards which convert S403 to S21 now the only question where I am stuck at is which one to get
I think that question is too specific for this chat? if there are forums for owner of these units who are involved in that project, I think you have better luck asking there.
Best smart bulbs
I have a house with an old alarm system from a previous tenant. It's not currently active and I think parts of it are missing, like one of the pieces on one of the door detectors. I'd like to integrate it with HA, where I already have a doorbell camera configured with frigate, and have a whole security/alarm tab. I don't really want to pay for remote monitoring, since that by its nature means sending a ton of sensitive data to someone else, but noonlight likes good with the HA integration that lets me determine when to send the alarm. I'm just not totally sure I understand the process for smartifying the security system. Konnected has a conversion kit, but I'm unsure if that'll let me see stuff like individual motion detectors (I'd like to hook one up to the hall lights), and how I'd be able to verify each component is working properly (I'm pretty sure they're all wireless too so I'll need to verify they all have good batteries). I'm also not sure how well it'll integrate with any new devices I buy, like some zigbee window shatter detectors
And how complicated is the konnected conversion kit install? Is that something I should get an electrician to do?
Konnected is aimed at wired sensors from memory, not wireless
Admittedly I'm not 100% sure they're wireless, they just seem so randomly placed that I don't suspect they are wired. I know my current alarms control panel is a concord 4. Do you know if that rules out wireless?
@jagged crypt the Innr worked the magic, now I understand hub, router and end device better too so thank you for the help. I coulnd't help but notice they don't support power metering, which if I have smart plugs seems like something I would want to have. Do you know which smart sockets is good routers with PM?
no problem, different versions may have power monitoring or not. My sengled does, but i know sonoff had some with powermointoring and some without and the different was one letter in the model number.
cna you link the one you use. The only sengled I find that isn't wifi is only listing matter as their thing. Dont wnat to introduce more protocols if I can avoid it for now
I just want to stay far away from anything Tuya-based... geez I'm tired of their platform that everyone is abusing to release all sorts of "smart home"-junk
I am looking for a good option for a 433 Mhz sender / receiver.
Can be standalone or USB device, but should have possibility for up-to-date firmware. And since my HA runs on a Raspi 4 I would also consider those tiny sender / receiver modules, which you can connect to the GPIO ports - I even have been using these on the same device before on openHAB). I even read about a NodeMCU running those modules with (1technophile/OpenMQTTGateway) , but I heard that this option is supposed to be only stable enough for testing purposes.
So if you have any advice for me, please let me know. Thank you.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092DBFFBY - you want the rectangle ones, not the square ones. And don't pay $90 for four, they normally have 20-40 off coupons
I don't remember if you are in a country with US plugs either
I'm currently using OpenMQTTGateway on a ESP32 with a CC1101 module at 433MHz. so far, it works pretty well for the few months it's been up & running. the only real change I had to make was a higher gain antenna so it could read sensors across the house. it's really going to be a matter of what you need it for, but the base function is pretty solid.
I have an RFXcom device that works across my apartment. It picks up the various intertechno remotes/plug and manages Somfy blinds. It wasn’t super cheap though
I have an extra NodeMCU and a D1 mini (and those CC1101 modules) so I will try that approach. It is way cheaper than @runic tinsel's suggestion. Thanks for your feedback
do presence sensors actually detect presence.. they seem to me like their motion sensors... as when I don't move the lights turns off even though I'm in the room. I bought a zy m100 zigbee from aliexpress as it was well praised but doesn't seem to work and after changing sensitivity in home assistant the sensors broke and only the lux sensor updates (It happened before, I fixed it once by reseting things but doesn't seem to unbrick it's self anymore.)
I set the delay to 15 seconds before it turns off, Is that the reason or did I just buy a shit sensor
Depends on what they are, mmWave ones do (ish), PIR ones don't
yeah I bought a 5ghz mmwave sensor since it was apparently better accuracy but less ranger
That one looks to be mmWave, but yeah, range isn't always awesome
Max 10 meters, and probably only half that in reality
5.8Ghz sensors have the largest range combined with accuracy
AliExpress description?
yes
Trustworthy source indeed
Note the sarcasme
is it actually a lie
oh I thought it was like WiFi gigaherts lol
tbh at this point I would rather have a camera for presence detection lol
Good luck with that 🙂
Have you considered factory resetting the sensor and starting fresh?
you can't factory reset it
you can only unpair it from zigbee2mqtt
I bought a tuya hub to connect it to smart life
as that might get it to work
it keeps stop updating the presence sensors if you mess around with sensitivity controls
Messing around without understanding them tends to do that
But the 24Ghz version is untested by me and features completely different hardware
Is it even labelled as ZY-M100?
if you don't move is presence detected?
is urs 24 or 54 ghz
do you have zigbee2mqtt edge version
Amongst other version yes
oh ok damn i bought a 5.4ghz one from a different seller, maybe that will work better
I don't think the sensor is the issue
took me a while and nearly a divorce before I realised what you need in your home is mmWave and what you need outside is PIR 🙂 everytime the bathroom got dark while my wife was in the shower and her dance to light it started I swear I learned 15 new cuss words each time
bummer, can't find the european version anywhere. Seems discontinued
@warm birch I have at MMWave is bathroom for same reason....
I'm going to test a theory that MM can go through walls though and try it on the other side of the bathroom wall where I have a utility room
do you know if mmWave see through glass well? Like shower glass doors? I have it placed really weirdly now and would like to move it but haven't been able to get a reliable take on this
I know the device I use has sensativiety settings in Zigbee2MqTT
It's not a theory but it depends on the wall
Mine turns on the light before opening the bathroom doors
But no luck through a 40cm brick wall... Stupid physics
would a wifi or zigbee mmwave sensor be better
What most don't tell you is that mmwave can be sensitive to water moving
i have a wifi smart life bulb and its instant when turning it on home assistant so i feel like wifi is better?
It's arguable which is better
I'm just going through drywall, I'm hoping its not do bad
1 layer as utility room is unfinished
i have tuya local and its instant so might go with it
This my drywall thickness
ewww
It's not but close enough
I'm looking at 1/2"
That's not even a wall 🙂
well like I said the backside is an unfinished room
so really I'm just going to tape the sensor to the back of the drywall
because my sensor is ugly
It'll work, maybe some diminished range
works like charm!
am I missing anything to open port 9999 for kasa switches? In my WAN settings I have TCP 9999/9999 enabled
you may want to add some additional context to your statement/question....
I get lots of log errors for all of my tplink kasa switches that look like this 192.168.1.131 data: Unable to connect to the device: 192.168.1.131:9999
on the router page I can see that these devices are maintaining their connection fine on that end so I have to assume when HA does a check for the device on 9999 it times out
192.168.1.131 can't talk to 192.168.1.131?
if you are seeing issues with HomeAssistnant trying to original connections to KASA switches 9999 and getting time outs, that routing and/or firewall issues, yes.
same problem? https://community.home-assistant.io/t/kasa-plugs-and-switches-giving-errors-and-warnings/543954 - no answer though
yeah same problem I think
this looks like ha->switch:9999 is failing
so routing, firewall, or perhaps switch is rate limiting connections (intentionally or because they are super slow)
Do you think the rate limit could be helped by disabling the switch integration from my alexa?
Firewall is disabled, routing like I said I have a Port trigger enabled on 9999
all devices also have a static ip
i don't think the alexa is polling the device
BTW I want a cellular backup. Is the usual way to handle this making an old phone a permanent hotspot that my HA machine can connect to in a pinch? Is there anything I can do to make sure if I, say, activated the noonlight alarm and it fails because the internet is cut, then it tries again after connecting to the hotspot?
Also, I'm looking at this plan for data, and I think it's probably the best I'll find: https://charge.co/plans . Since it's just a backup I'll rarely if ever use the data, so it'll be a small one time cost then just a $3/mo ongoing cost.
im so defeated, I cant figure out why it keeps happening, it stopped last night for about 10 hours but basically for the entire time I have been using HA it happens extremely frequently
is something else failing, or just seeing the logs?
yeah the switch becomes unavailable during that time
thepaperpilot, house router can deal with internet failover possibly easier. As to mobile plans, whatever works for you, in whatever country you are in.
Anybody know how I can configure or add Zwave JS support for an unsupported device (Vemmio Room Sensor) none of the documented parameters show in the UI so I’m unable to change basic things like the report frequency.
http://vemmio.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Room-Sensor-manual.pdf
I would like to install a charging wall box in the underground parking garage of our building. Is there any standard/brand that would allow me to control this from HA over the mobile network? Getting LAN to the garage would be a bit of a job
anyone running unbound on pihole with HA? any cons?
Hi guys, would this be the right place to ask for some assistance in wiring a new smart switch module in place of the old "dumb" light switch? I'm trying to figure it out but the different wiring diagram notations are confusing me a bit...
Only immediate con that I can see: if you f*** one of the services and have to set something up from scratch, the other services on the device might be screwed, too. Also, resources ... HA + pihole + unbound ... depends on your hardware. If you have a Pi2, I'd not recommend doing that 😉
Sure. Ask and if someone can help they'll help you. Make sure you tell us what device it is and what country you're in.
Okay thanks!
So, as I mentioned I'm trying to install a Zigbee switch in place of an old dumb switch. Both are 2-channel switches (aka 1-way but control 2 ceiling lights).
Pics 1 and 2 are the current wiring. Pic 3 is the new switch.
I'm in EU, my new switch is a "no neutral" one.
Oh, and I don't intend to have a physical switch connected to the smart module (as it's in an awkward place - so I will control it with a separate wireless switch via HA)
The lettering on the current switch is kinda tripping me up, as I couldn't find any instructions online using similar notation 😓
I'm thinking it should be:
Brown wire (Live) to L
Gray and Yellow/green wire to L1 and L2
... however, how come the yellow/green wire is used in this way? I thought yellow/green is for Ground always
reason they used yellow green is that it wasnt installed by a professional electrician
what probably happened: hey i ran ot of x color, ill use green yellow instead
I see... That's explains a lot, yeah (a lot of other wires in different places of the house don't match color coding rules either, sadly).
What are you guys using for a sensor to tell when the garbage has been collected? I've used Aqara sensors but twice now they've gone missing. Even though the adhesive seems strong I'm guessing they get knocked off somehow when the garbage truck picks up the bin with those mechanical arms and lifts it and tips it into the back.
where did you glue them?
TIL that digikey will allow you to modify order quantities without having to cancel your order, now waiting for 10x pi zero 2 ws instead of 8x
doing bt presence tracking and remembering that I have more rooms
Not sure if this is a hardware question or front end question, but any experiences using cheap android tablets in kiosk mode versus a more spendy tablet, want replace a weather station setup with a HA set and integrate my ecobee setup in
I use an Amazon fire tablet with wall panel installed, wouldn't really recommend it to others, plain android would be much easier to deal with for the install and configuration
But it works really well now that it's all setup
Any recommendations on a zigbee device that works with zha and connects over ethernet instead of USB? Ready to get rid of my hue hub but bulbs are too far away from my HA instance. Found the zigstar lan gatewaay and it looks nice, but doesn't appear to be able to be shipped to the US.
@gilded steppe I know you're not using Z2M but take a look here for more options: https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/
Don't remember if it's zha compatible, but it is poe powered and works with home assistant
Thanks!
it works with both ZHA and z2m
Or any usb stick and a pi or something and send that serial over tcp
I've used Teclast and cheap Samsung A7 tablets with success. All run Fully Kiosk Browser so the tablet doesn't need to be special.
I want to switch from my Pi4 to a mini PC, the pi is sluggish and I want to run Frigate on the new install (new house). I have a bunch of 1TB m.2s that I would like to use. The thing will be screwed against the wood panel in the utility closet. Any recommendations?
Or maybe I should just use my old Ryzen 5 based laptop?
Which smart thermostats can you recommend? There are quite a few out there.
@remote narwhal that depends what you are trying to do, what are you looking to do, I have Centralite Pearl which is zigbee thermostat that I do all my automation from HA. All it basically does it control my HVAC system with set temps and HA does everything else
I just want to control the temperature with maybe a timeplan and air humidity.
I actually don’t know what else would make sense. I want to see all rooms in one app and don’t walk threw the whole house.
ive been fighting with my network setup for like 4 days
it looks like the culprit was pihole somehow but I fixed it
how can i add a sensor to automations or whatever it is called??
it is missing presence state in automations
it is mm wave sensor
#automations-archived can help with that
thanks
Ok so do you have a single thermostat for the house or multiple? What thermostat do you have currently?
Been having problems with homeassistant restarting several times a day and now it is crashing and not restarting could it be my rpi3? now I'm having to power off the pi and restart it to get HA working again
hi all im looking for some recommendations on something that works over wifi, and lets me monitor power consumption of a specific outlet
from what i can see , smart plugs do that, however i cant fit a smart plug in the place i want it to go, ive also looked into shelly stuff that go inside the wall connecting to mains, but as far as im aware they are made for switches ?
Well I actually have no idea. I have a oil heater in the basement and these in each room.
Shelly PM would probably do what you need if you've got the room for it inside the junction box
great will look into it i guess
u referring to this right ?