#hardware-archived
1 messages Ā· Page 35 of 1
for a LORA sensor, you could easily charge it on solar just about anywhere
now for real data....
well we get 340 days of sun a year
Not with my trees
but I have lived places where I have not seen the sun for 6 months
Russian prison?
north Sweden
Yeah I want poe to my front gate so I can read my non-smart gas+water meters; but it's > 100m so suspect it won't work
same thing really
that's a job for wifi
It should
poe is flaky after 300 feet
Still need power there. Not fussed about speed, 1mbit would probably be fine.
even +
It's just for a couple of esp32 reading+ocr some dumb meters
I used to use a big ass brick for poe+ beyond 300 feet and even then it would flake
and iirc esp32 wifi is sucky range
I have a fire hydrant on my property by the mailbox. Maybe I can just turn it on for hydro
heheh
Funny. They own it. They just come at replace it
Planted new grass too. Actually did a good job. I was gonna be get off my lawn
But I kinda want them to do rest of my lawn
The town legally doesn't need to warn or tell you..
water company guy came here to read the meter and rang the door bell to see if anyone lived here anymore
your front garden must be a mess! š
meter hasn't moved in 4 years
that's why
lol
it's not that bad š
im like you ring the doorbell it goes ding dong right?
but yeah his question was if I had a well supply or something
because the meter never moved in the 4 years he's been reading it
I wonder if I can wrap something around the 3phase cables, and induce enough current to run the esp32. Also, free.
google says no
And the answer to his question?
Kinetic vibration that charges by cars running over it
yes, yes I do
at this house and the other
and I also have a 7500 gallon cistern at the other house
I collect rain water
when there's no rain, I pump the cistern full from the well
water company wanted $60K to run pipes to my place
so I said.....
The 0-10v dimming seems smooth and reliable anyway but it's frustrating to find connected devices that support it.
hence the use of a zen54 lr
That's the part I mean. I've seen the zooz as looking like best option.
I'm running dimming wires out to the switch box anyway just in case we ever move and I need to put in a dumb dimmer switch for the next people
So I don't need to open the wall again lol
Hi! What would be the preferred solution to integrate addressable RGB LED strips into HA? I can work with Zigbee or some ESP-based solution (Tasmota?). Any reccomendations? Thanks!
esphome maybe?
I'd like to have a cheap touch display I could use to display a status and switch some things on and off for HA. In other terms, I look for a external switch with a variable display that is playing together with HA. I would like to see current solar production and start charging to different targets. (Fast/economical/to 80%/...) Anyone a hint where to search for such a device?
Hi everyone, I am moving into a new home and that has down lights. I already use Hue GU10 bulbs and wont need to replace these. I am looking to have one accent light but unfortunately, the light I want has integreated LEDS.
My plan is to add a relay to the top of the bulb to eliminate the need to add another switch. Does any one have any reccomendations if that is a good way to go and what would just work with a hue system! Thank you in advance
You can add a relay behind your switch. They are just called "smart relays". Or you can replace your switch entirely. Either way, if you're using a hue bridge, you need hue devices. If you're just using zigbee, just search for a zigbee relay. Brands I like: Zooz, inovelli, jasco (No zigbee though), hue. You can also try cheap stuff but I wouldn't go hceap for a relay.
so I got DTSU666 and it works(rs485 bus), but I've got a question: I've hooked it to 1 phase(1 phase hooked to all 3 inputs). But reading Line to line voltage, I get:
Voltage L1-L2: 385.000 V
Voltage L2-L3: 385.000 V
Voltage L3-L1: 385.000 V
Does it do something under the hood or does it not work properly in my setup?
Hey, than you - I am trying to avoid a relay behind the switch because the swith also controlls all the other lights in the room which will be hue bulbs
you can put the relay behind the fixture instead then
same principle
however it will be odd when your switch does not have power
sorry thats what I meant behind the fixture. Perfect that is what I thought - What relays work best with Hue? I assume the Hue one will work?
I cant put any bulb in the fixture light
Yes I get that, but if the switch delivering power to the fixture is off, the relay will be off
@rich venture hey, maybe you know?
Ok, then you shouldn't have a problem
Perfect thank you, just need to find the best relay to go with Hue now. a simple on / off is all I need š
Don't get suckered into a doulbe relay, you only need a single relay
they may be the same price, but the single relays are easier to setup & configure
Perfect - if anyone has suggestions of ones that work with hue that would be much appreciated!
if you are using single phase i would not connect them all of them to all of the inputs
i would try connecting them to l1 and n and leaving l2 l3 disconnected
got it, it's just a test for now, I wanted to see if it works
You have 3-phase? Most residential have split-phase, so two hots and a neutral.
Well, North America it's split phase, I think Europe is single phase, un-split.
Usually yes, sometimes it's three phase
What would you guys recommend for monitoring the operation of a dumb sump pump. I basically want to know when it runs, but I don't want a relay/smart switch involved for safety and pump reliability. It's a 110v A/C pump.
About 5A max current draw.
I have some neighbours (I live in a rural community) that have had 3-phase brought in because they have shops and shop equipment that requires it, but even then their house is fed by a single phase.
It would be neat to have, but then I'd use that as an excuse to buy massive lathes and mills or something.
are there any standing desks that is supported by HA, without DIY hacking? for europe
I have three phase. Installed so I can power woodworking tools, and export more solar
Exactly. Iām semi-rural too
Why would smart plug be bad for safety/reliability? I use two for exactly that - monitoring sump pumps
I donāt use the plug for switching (pump has integrated float) just for power monitoring
I have alerts if the device goes offline for too long, or the pump stays on too long (itās probably blocked)
If I'm going to go out and buy old (presumably Android) phones or tablets or similar, for use as handheld/table-top/wall mounted remote controls / remotely controllable videoscreens for things like reminders etc... what's my most cost-effective option?
Don't get too old ones
yeah, that's one element of the question, "how old is too old?"
something with a close to current webview version
Technically Android 5 and up but then there's the question of the WebView component
and because I didn't really emphasize it correctly: The main priority is being able to visually convey information too complex for smart lights, in a fully immediate attention-calling way
ha, beat you to it... pigeon power!
What does that meanm
the main example is reminders
I think notifications and the like
yeah you'd ideally need a fairly new webview version mostly
I'd say Android 10 and up
yeah. I want to be able to "send" notifications and reminders to particular screens in particular rooms
I use pixel clocks for that, much better at grabbing attention
example?
prolly something like https://tidbyt.com/
And the Divoom Pixoo64
I Should have known that
I want a bit more, well, resolution than that
something that can convey a full sentence or so, legibly without scrolling
Then an Android 10+ tablet
Might have issues with font sizes unless there's an app that works with HA
I've seen so many variations of that, all displaying the realtime BTC price š
makes me think there's a singular market for them
Nah there's YouTube subscribers number too
well traders would love them I'd imagine
One of my coworkers had one that switch between BTC and Ethereum
I have a client with like 8 screens on his desk tho
This is impressively difficult to search for used
Might need to wait a year or two
It's more that search engines are way too quick to interpret "10" (or any other number) as the screen size, nobody's indexing by Android version, and there doesn't seem to be a common spec to differentiate
Why must you entice me
I only just finished my clock build a few months ago
can anyone recommend an outdoor motion sensor? i live in arizona so it will need to be able to withstand the heat... will not be in direct sunlight but will still be 115 during the summer
zigbee? wifi ? powered? battery ?
sorry about that... zigbee/battery
at first look there's this https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Outdoor-Motion-Sensor-ZSE29/dp/B07KP4T3MS
there's also this https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/p/hue-outdoor-sensor/046677570989
I have an Aqara P1 that works pretty well outdoors but not directly exposed to sun and precip. Not quite as hot here but still regularly over 100 during the summer.
i like my tidbit
I monitor my well pump's circuit with a GEM which is how I found out I had a leak, but I monitor my deep freeze with a Tasmota'd TopGreener plug.
I've been meaning to looking into monitoring my well pump as well
I have an automation that alerts me if sump power is >500W for more than 10 minutes.
And another if the power-plugs hasn't checked in a while, since the new wifi is a bit flakey (less powerfull than the old).
Smart plug would work fine. 110V so, if you're in the US, a Sonoff S31 (rated up to 15A) flashed with esphome would do the job perfectly. When you flash it you just make sure it's set up so the default behavior in the event of a power loss is "on".
I just purchased a Wyse Thin Client, but it is missing the SSD standoff screw. Is one of the Nvme screw kits from Amazon going to work, or can someone point me in the correct direction? Thank you!
Hello guys,
I am new here, currently I setup HA on windows on VM, works fine, but it was only for some play.
Now I want to setup it nicely on my old (but not bad) laptop. I will use Proxmox to install HA OS.
I have two questions regarding hardware.
-
Which Zigbee USB stick should I choose? I have three in my minds, ZBDongle-P, ZBDongle-E and SkyConnect.
I think I should choose ZBDongle-P, because it has best connectivity with devices? -
Another question is related to Ensy Recuperator AHU-350 BH/BV. Maybe someone successfully connected it to HA?
Even using apps (bitzersmartconnect and Ensy official app) it's bit challenging to connect.
bitzersmartconnect - use to connect recuperator via bluetooth to connect it to wifi
ensy app - connect recuperator to app via serial number and mac address via their own cloud services
Wondering maybe someone are lucky and connected this ... ?
- Depends on if you want to use ZHA or Z2M but there's also #zigbee-archived
I like ethernet zigbee coordinators. So you can put your ha box anywhere, but limited to being zigbee-close
What are peoples favoritie blind companies for smart home compatibility š
Hello everyone. Might someone recommend a reliable battery motion sensor that runs with HA? I already tried an aquara and a tradfri and it seems like they use to loose connection quite often, resulting in bad reliability. I could work with shelly (motion 2 is quite expensive) or matter. Thx in advance
If you have issues with both of those you probably have issues with your Zigbee mesh and/or coordinator
need more mains powered devices most likely
Yes that must be the reason
I fear that is exactly the problem but i have none
Better start plugging in some š
My smart bulbs are all connected to switches an my children an wife put them off regularly
That's a good recipe for messing up your mesh even more
And out switch-manufacturer has no zigbee switches as far as i know
Are switch repeater an option?
if they are mains powered
Yes, you can get in wall relay module that go behind switches
If you want to keep existing ones
I know. I just startet with shelly very early for all the bulbs/lights that can't run zigbee (we got quite a lot hard-wired LEDs) and i'm uncertain whether i should mix that up
If you can put a Shelly in you can put a f.e. ZBMINI in
Do you by chance know if they can be run with cross-circuits?
They look quite promissing
@tacit burrow @devout parrot I was initially trying to avoid a smart switch to keep the pump from accidentally getting switched 'off', basically trying to idiot proof it. But the the Sonoff S31 flashed with espHome sounds like it will do the trick and give me what I want. Thank you for the great info!
Fwiw, I do also have a separate, battery powered backup pump as well. I'm also building a monitoring setup for that because it's also not smart.
It does sound like a coordinator issue; what coordinator do you use? Of course Philips Hue sensors or the Samsung SmartThings PIRs are most peopleās āgold standardā. That said, even the cheapest sensors will work relatively well.
From mains or per outlet?
I connected the live wire of all my light switches to a wire nut so they donāt operate; or where I needed relays for certain devices like extractor fans or heat lamps (in the bathrooms), installed Zigbee light switch panels and created an automation that immediately turns the switch that controls the lighting back on if someone was silly enough to turn it off.
do you guys know how to tell if this is RF or what -- https://www.build.com/zephyr-14000005/s76726?uid=4255398 ?
oh it's a RF remote
While Zigbee is great at building a mesh (mostly), it takes some time to reconverge if the network is disturbed and Aqara devices, in my view, really donāt like losing connectivity often.
what is a cheap RF repeater you guys can recommend?
For what frequency/use case?
I want to use it to replicate my kitchen exhaust remote.
I don't know the frequency, how can I find out
Open up the existing remote; itāll probably be self evident from the PCB components.
433MHz at a guess?
Itās a new use case for me; maybe someone has more experience. If it was a Garage Door, for instance, you can determine it from the controller.
let me open it up and get back to you
Hmm I cannot open it. FCC id vvp is all it says.
hmm either 315Mhz or 433.92Mhz
found it 315Mhz
I use ZHA with a a sonoff usb stick (that black one ver 3?)
Hehe, they are all black. @zealous dune et al., including me, are likely to advocate for zigbee2mqtt; albeit, I am informed ZHA is a lot better these days. Nonetheless, that is not relevant to your coordinator choice per se. It does sound like you have, at a minimum, a decent coordinator. This might seem like an odd question if youāre unfamiliar with the issue, but do you have your coordinator plugged directly into a USB3 port or is it connected to a USB extension cable that places it a decent distance from the port?
Great work! Youāll be pleased to know the latest Broadlink RM4 Pro RF supports 433/315MHz frequencies. Itās an HA supported IR/RF transmitter and to can learn RF frequencies in the two bands I noted.
Itās relatively easy to configure a RM4 Pro to integrate with HA, learn the 315MHz frequency broadcast by your remote, and have the RM4 replay the commands it learns from your remote thereby controlling the device youāre looking to automate.
Does that make sense?
@raw scaffold For reference, this is the device I am referring to: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33033898088.html
I'm afraid my pi 4 is finally starting to fail. It's been running HA nonstop for 6 years now.
I'd like to take the opportunity to have an actual mini-PC or something that I can run HA, Plex, some other random server things on, and connect my 6TB WD Red NAS to.
Any recommendations?
Can you connect an NAS drive to it?
how does the nas drive connect?
The Beelink is not certified for TrueNAS. Yes it has the proper CPU specs and memory specs, but the back plane communications required for the disk drives is missing.
never mind
Woohoo, another project to add to the list.
Some type of PCI connector I think
@rocky lodge I am unfamiliar with the Beelink, but it has a USB3.0 interface, you can run software RAID via an external 3.5ā enclosure.
TrueNAS, as I understand it, doesnāt care how you connect to the drives
As long they appear as drives to the OS.
Hi, does anyone know of an activity tracker band that can be integrated with home assistant?
Specifically I want a sensor that indicates that I'm sleeping/awake and updates every few minutes or so. I know fitbit has an integration but that sensor only updates once every 30 minutes. I also looked at a mi band, but the app that allows you to integrate is only for android (I have an iPhone). I'm looking to buy an activity tracker anyway, but I'd prefer one that can also provide sensors that I can use in automations.
I've used my samsung watch mostly for that stuff
Apple is very limited/limiting
I'd not be surprised if you're stuck with the Apple Watch and whatever the #ios_and_mac-archived app provides
ahh pity, thanks anyway!
@zealous dune hey ! I bought ramay wireless adapter it worked a few days but now for some reason it connects to Bluetooth but not to wifi
Any idea?
Can't find support for it
Why are you asking me?
Because you recommended it to me
What kind of an adapter is that?
It's the Android auto adapter
Ah, why don't you say so in the first place. No idea, mine is still working. Can you connect to the AP manually?
I tried but AP has a password for some reason
Try another phone
I think at start it didnt have one ?
Password is probably provisioned over BT
Good Point Will trh that
It's an excellent little device
Aww it's My phone
Stupid phone
X2 for some reason it doesnt want to connect to wifi
Anyone with experience with Aqara FP2?
I installed it yesterday and sometimes works very fine and other times it keeps detecting somewhere I've been while it continues to track me as a second person. I have the latest firmware.
Any clue on how the presence and proximity sensitivity should be configured? I have everything as medium (also in zones) and it's installed in an open plan kitchen/living room (around 9x6m I believe)
yes it does that sometimes. do you have any fans or other moving things in the space?
well it does but its getting better with each new firmware version
I keep resetting the absence status and I think it's improving but...
What about the sensitivity? How should it be set up?
both presence and proximity?
I don't fully get proximity one... it says if it's a large place to set it to far?
lol and now I see it's detecting my dog on the sofa... I was so happy it wasn't detecting him š
XD
I was hopping lights won't turn on when his moving as it happens now with the PIRs I have
I understand, was trying to be funny š
š
Hi all, any advice/recommendation for a Wifi siren compatible with HA? Ideally I would like a Matter siren but I don't think it already exist... No Zigbee or similar, Thanks.
matter standard does not support sirens
most sirens are from Tuya so technically they're compatible with HA
And any advice for a gsm module compatible with HA Yellow?
also recommendatoin for a general "smart button/switch"
fine with zigbee/zwave, I'm in the USA and any budget. just looking for a generalized button (dont love NFC tags)
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
Does anyone have experience with the TP-Link MS100 sensor? It's super cheap on Amazon, but a lot of the comments say that it "doesn't connect" to the Kasa app or something. Possible to run it as a Zigbee light / motion sensor, still?
Thanks, I didn't know about that resource (I'm new to HA) and that'll be helpful for more than just this question. Appreciate it. And as for how good it is, that's helpful too. If I can get it up and running, I was thinking I might put three of them around the house and average their readings. Would that help overcome their shortcomings, do you think?
Hi, has anybody tried the LOGILINK Shock SH0007 vibration sensors? They are Bluetooth (which is new to me for HA) and are rather cheap. When they are working, this would be great.
Those of you that have smart thermostats (if youre a dutch smart thermostat user lmk), which one integrates the best within HASS?
Iām trying to update the BIOS on my Dell OptiPlex, Iāve got the .exe from Dells website but I already got rid of windows so I cant install via that, but when I try to install via the BIOS it doesnāt seem to be able to see my USB stick. Is there a setting in the BIOS that would potentially stop it from being seen? Iāve not had much luck Googling.
Solved it - it needed to be a bootable USB stick even though Dells website says otherwise.
I keep a couple of those "portable" windows isos on my Ventoy stick for those situations.
anyone know how to add a driver to HAOS for a wifi card?
i have an apu2 with an add-on card
but HAOS didnt discover it and i dont see it in the NETWORK settings
it just shows the three NICs
friends don't let friends use wifi on 'servers'
fudge, i just wanted it more central in my house
the kitchen is in "the middle"
where as my lab is in the basement in a corner
What's the benefit of having it central?
i dont have a good answer because my current HA runs in my lab and things work ok
the bad part is more around my wifi interference and less about my location for the antennas
So unreliability vs I don't know
well my unreliability stems from, what i think is, my unifi wifi APs
so i was advised to 1. change the channel on zigbee, and upgrade both my zigbee and zwave antennas
that's not a bad idea, but haos on wifi kinda is
So there's not only wifi in play
yeah im a mess, basically i rushed into my HA setup as i was trying to get away from smartthings
i used a nortek adapter and zigbee was on channel 15
so then multiple reddit posts and i deduced i should upgrade my antennas and change to channel 25
so thats where i am, and i been toiling away at raspberry pis and apu2s today with my new antennas
and everyone made me aware i need a USB hub for the pi4 to run both my antennas AND the damn sata/usb SSD since SD cards suck ass
Mini PC, displaced ZigBee coordinator via Ethernet, zwave should be fine if you have enough devices
im at 60 zigbee and 40 zwave, and im not looking forward to the migration
has to be manually redone because new antennas, then i gotta rewrite my insane amount of scenes and automations
displaced zigbee coordinator?
i dont know what that means
yeah a network one, not usb
A coordinator you can place where needed, not where the server is
im kinda new to all of this, i been using smartthings for seven years and got tired of it
can you share with me a product URL or something or what i need to buy??
yeah mine is working well
ok so that gets an IP address on my network and i assume theres some ingestion into an HA integration?
my issue is: i only ran ethernet for my APs
well get the fish tape
its a 4000sqft house, and my shitty nortek works fine, so i dont need a displaced one
haha
It's surprising it works fine
never, ever run "one" network cable to a device
for the pennies the cable costs, do yourself a favor and always pull two
i ran six, to all over the house
to 6 AP's tho right?
I'm saying I would have ran 12 and had 6 spares
one is free but in a corner on the top floor, no different than the basement
ok so i guess ill give up on putting it in the kitchen
stick with APU2 wired
am i right that all devices joined to my nortek will ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL need to be excluded and readded to my new HA?
i cant migrate that?
Hello. I am looking for the best buttons that I can use with home assistant. I like the size of the Flic, but it appears they don't work with HA. Any recommendations. I would prefer something over wifi, as I am honestly not sure how to install the z-wave/zigbee usb stick I have (If that is the prefered way, I just need to do it and I am not sure how to google that honestly).
Wifi is a no go if you want something like flic
I have on my "I have to look into that"-list smartpusher for that https://blueforcer.de/produkt/smartpusher-set/ (sorry link is in german)
esp based, nice design, highly customizable
there are resources aplenty about adding Zigbee to HA
I just really like the size of flic. The buttons are small and do ONLY one thing. Nothing special about them. I was thinking wifi more like to the hub or something.
https://github.com/AeroSteveO/EspDeck I have a thing for this, I made some 9 key pads with esphone
They're only a little smaller than the Aqara Zigbee buttons which work great with HA. I have a few of them, one I use for a doorbell and the other two to toggle lights inside, and I've been really happy with them. The doorbell one is still working great and hasn't needed a new battery even after a year and a half outside.
Thanks for the information. Do I need the hub for them?
For the Aqara buttons, or any of their other Zigbee stuff, you will not need the Aqara hub, just whatever Zigbee stick you want to use.
Aqara is cheaper on AliExpress if you can wait too. My 5 year old has one connected to a harmony hub that can turn on and off her switch, with all the correct inputs on the receiver, etc. They are fun. I think I got 5 for 35 bucks.
Speaking of Aqara buttons, I have a button that started randomly triggering, then failing to respond to actual presses. After changing out the battery, it's failing to respond. It doesn't even try to pair. The batteries are known good. Am I just outta luck and have a dead button?
5 for 35? That's a smoking good deal.
I just found this in reddit, very useful to understand how to setup the sensitivity in the Aqara FP2, so I thought I'd share it here in case someone wanted to find something like this:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Aqara/comments/15bu7v3/fp2_presence_detection_function_settings/
Sale starts on Monday tho
I know this is off-topic and probably old hat to most here, but the process of purchasing something from AliExpress (and making sure that I'm buying what I want at the best price, especially) is still bewildering to my American mind ...
David https www aliexpress us item
Hey guys. I'm having trouble with my zigbee network and wanted to flash another Sonoff dongle plus as a router. I'm using the Smart RF Flasher. I've followed every instruction that I could find, but no matter what, the flash fails immediately and has an error. Here's a screenshot. I've held down the boot button for 10 seconds, as I plugged it into the computer. Everywhere I've looked, nobody has any problem like this. Has anybody ever heard of this behavior?
#zigbee-archived can help with Zigbee stuff
Remember there's two different Sonoff Plus dongles
Just throwing this out there to save other people from making the same mistake I just did. If you want to try powering something like, say, an ESPHome based air quality monitor by tapping off the power into your HVAC thermostat... those lines are AC, not DC š¤¦
I have been running HAOS on a Dell Optiplex micro PC and the SSD has died. Yep died. Lucky i have backups so going to grab a new SSD this morning and happy days⦠however, is it worth using this opportunity to install proxmox and restore HAOS to that rather than bare metal? Im just thinking of easier ways to restore in the future.
It's worth exploring
Hello, I just bought a skyconnect stick and it would not show under hardware, can't find anything about this problem (running HAOS on a RPI4)
That usually happens when you've got other USB devices connected, and the Pi doesn't have enough power - a powered USB hub should fix that
So I should try without any other USB device connected (though I am trying to migrate from a conbee2 stick and I had no issues with that)
Well, the Pi only has so much power for the USB ports
ConBee + SkyConnect may be too much
I unplug the ConBee and plug the SkyConnect, trying to use the same port
Ah... I see you already have a thread going in #zigbee-archived
@stark flower Please do not cross post. Read the channel description, post it and wait for folks to respond. Crossposting wastes people's time as they're unaware of the help you're getting elsewhere.
If you don't get any responses after an hour or more, and your message is no longer on screen, it is fine to re-post or post a link to it.
Where are all the zigbee/zwave/matter fans at? Everything is wi-fi š¦
Is there any way to make HAOS preform a clean shutdown a la hassio.host_shutdown when I press the power button? Running on a NUC
Or can any fan use a switch like the lutron to seems to have fan control with adjustable speed on the switch
What does it do right now?
Currently it does nothing, just keeps running as if I did nothing. If I hold it it unclealy shuts down of couse
Hmm, apparently that's expected:
- https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/issues/2306
- https://github.com/agners/operating-system/commit/aacf02027b51695fbca697be93f7461bc2b50c7a
- https://github.com/home-assistant/operating-system/pull/1874
Not sure if you can override parts of the unit on HAOS
Are there any physical wall mount Hue switches that can also be exposed to HA so I know what button was pressed? I have the wire/battery free Friends of Hue switches, but they aren't exposed to HA.
Why aren't they exposed to HA? You can skip Hue hub, and connect them directly via zigbee and z2m
(mine are original hue switches, but should be same principal?)
Well I'm happy with the Hue hub, which is also connected to homekit. I have no interest in doing Zigbee.
you're already doing zigbee, it's wrapped in proprietary Hueness
yes I know. I have zero interest in HA Zigbee.
Any idea why you don't see the devices in HA?
I have no idea why the RunLessWire switches aren't visible in HA
But I'm absolutely not doing a Zigbee science project just for light switches.
While it does support non-Hue ZLL and ZB3 lights, plugs, and wired switches, the Hue bridge won't expose these to HomeKit. The Hue API only supports (Friends-of-)Hue wireless switches, and Hue sensors.
I know who will do a science project on zigbee for light switches 
Itās like saying Beetlejuice and shs shows up š
@zealous dune I managed to make work again Android auto dongle by deletting Google assistant and Google play store cache
Interrsting fact: password is 88888888
hello, can you please suggest a good plug that is 16A and at least 3500W? zigbee or wifi is fine
and where do you live?
EU
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09QCB651Q these seem to be 3680W
The Shelly Plug (without S or Plus S) claims to be rated for 16A - 3500W
shelly are 2500W
That's the Plug S
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07RGVBPBV but I don't see a wattage rating but it looks identical to the avatar one
I'm talking about the Plug
https://www.shelly.com/en-de/products/product-overview/1xplug (now in english)
ah
so we have a list, with what of these do you have experience and can advice? š
I have 0 experience with those, when I lived in EU smart plugs were not a thing
well, I have a shelly plus 1pm on the wall plug, but I am afraid to plug the oven there, it can burn I guess, so I am looking for a smart plug instead
What kind of oven?
Easy bake oven why?
Do you mean an oven built into a kitchen cabinet? Then you might be out of luck. At least in Germany those are not equipped with a CEE 7/7 Type F plug, but have their own connection box, where the wires are screwed in.
If you just want power metering, something like the Shelly EM might be more suitable.
yes, it is. in italy we have the type F plug
so it is fine, the problem is to fid a good and reliable plug
The Shelly Plug claims to be able to - but that would be at it's upper limit. I would go with something like the Shelly EM and a CT clamp, if you can hide it neatly. Less risk of melting and fire.
yeah, I have to check if I ahve space
uh?
any one knows if there is one? I am searching but cant find none
what is that, NEMA 6-15?
well the plug would be 6-15p and the receptacle would be 6-15r if it's the right model
Does anyone have a BroadLink rm4 pro? I am wondering how I can setup a fan speed slider in home assistant. Not sure if this is the right channel
That'd be #integrations-archived
Thanks
yes nema
you're not going to have much luck finding a smart plug to fit that
https://www.amazon.com/120-277VAC-Electric-Compatible-Certified-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0 is a possible solution if you have an electrician wire it up
hmm I just need to monitor usage, I guess monitor the breaker will be simpler and cheaper
well yeah if you don't need to control it a clamp monitor might be the way to go
any cheap alternatives?
but now that I've found this for you, it's exactly what I was wanting for my water heater
well that was the only thing that checked all the boxes that you asked for
Same thing, only cheaper (Jasco makes GE)
Random one - anyone know of any 3-pin PMW devices (computer fans) that have Zigbee/WiFi control? Have set up a sound insulated NAS enclosure, but obviously gets pretty warm in there. Was hoping to automate an exhaust fan based on the temperature in there.
I read that someone used a LED dimmer for their 12V fan
I use these with 2 12V computer fans to add temperature control. Not remotely controlled, but they work. https://a.co/d/cVsk7sZ. My application is the inverter and charger bay in my camper, so I have 12VDC https://a.co/d/178SNOl
Looks like this might do the job pretty well: https://www.coolerguys.com/en-au/products/coolerguys-12v-pwm-fan-controller
Just need to work out how to get 12v DC to it.
Just started building myself an ESP32 air quality monitoring station using ESPHome and got the idea to build a custom PCB for the "base station" and I'm curious if anybody has feedback on the basic design goals. Right now I'm just using a run of the mill dev board, but I feel like a purpose-built board could be nice.
Design ideas so far:
- Support ~24VAC input so it can be powered from an HVAC thermostat sender line (red/common)
- Support 12-30ish VDC input if you want to power from a DC power supply instead.
- Screw terminal block for 5V/3.3V/Gnd power rails
- Screw terminal block connectors for all GPIO's
- Broken out UART/SPI headers
- JST Quiic connectors for I2C lines for easy connection of I2C sensor modules
- PWM/MOSFET Fan Header (2-pin JST XH/3+1 pin Molex KK 254)
- On-board power rail LED's and dedicated status LED's
- On-board beeper
I might put a few more on-board peripherals, like maybe a temperature sensor or something, but I'm not wanting to build the whole kitchen sink into a monolithic design, more looking for a better purpose-made design for the base module that can easily be connected up to whatever peripherals somebody wants for their own device. Existing dev boards with plug-in pin headers are meant to be super generic, so they aren't exactly easy to start using for this sort of thing without soldering. That and the HVAC thermostat power were the two things that started me down this road, so I'm curious to see if anybody has thoughts.
https://willempennings.nl/home-assistant-compatible-air-quality-sensor/ this guy made a pretty cool one and open sourced it
Yeah, that's pretty neat, but that's a bit too far in the other direction away from a general-purpose dev board, where the board is specifically made for his purposes. I'm looking to make something kind of down the middle, like a general purpose dev board, with all the GPIO's broken out, but with specific focus on the ESPHome use case, so things like the more robust power input options and IO connectors that can be connected/disconnected without any tools other than maybe a screwdriver.
This is my current hardware.
What would be the best Mesh system to use with Home Assistant and smart home devices?
that would be #thread-archived
Thread is a mesh system
But I still have smart lights and plugs that still require a 2.4 Ghz band...
you are talking plain old wifi
I am looking for something like the Netgear 3 piece Wifi Mesh or the Google Nest Wifi Tri-band Mesh network.
So, I can get internet throughout my home...
buy any router compatible with openwrt
flash openwrt
profit
802.11s all day everywhere you want for cheap
I have a router with DD-WRT on it.
openwrt is superior
Does it allow for flawless Internet when used as nodes or satellites? (AP mode)
openwrt is flawless, yes
What advantages does OpenWRT have over DD-WRT? š¤
many
Hmmm... just read an article about them.
DD-WRT doesn't support tunneling.
(Explains how I managed to brick a router I was trying to put DD-WRT on) š
tunneling is a very broad term
It isn't "technically" bricked... but I have no way of accessing it cause I stupidly disabled the radio, so it doesn't broadcast any IP address... so it is completely unreachable...
I'm sure it still works... but I have no way of accessing it. š
Hmmm...
I was initially considering getting the Google Nest... but as a majority of my lights and plugs still require 2.4 Ghz band... that wouldn't be ideal. š
Does OpenWRT require hardwired backending?
Or does it support wireless mesh?
it supports both
there are multiple mesh functions available to you on openwrt
openwrt also gives nice capabilities to track devices on your network https://imgur.com/a/hXvXIgh
whitch esp8266 boards do you use? a brand or just the cheapest you can find?
Usually the cheapest I can find but most of the time I just get ESP32s anyway. There's usually more talk about esp stuff in #diy-archived
thanks, i switched to that channel
balderdash
Anyone have experience using a switchbot hub to control a tv via IR?
I try to use a tuya bi directional energy meter, but home assistant doesnāt recognize it as an energy metering device, how can i solve this?
Well, I couldn't get it to work wirelessly (which is kind of important to the set up I'm trying to achieve).
I want to be able to go from one end to the other end, with no signal loss, dropped signals, etc...
DD-WRT doesn't allow wireless meshing.
Wireless mesh != tunnelling
What do You think of using
Kasa Smart plug for monitoring energy
For:
refrigerator with freezer
Washer
Dryer
Icemaker
Wine refigerator
Refigerator worries me
Do you guys think that a AHT10 chip could be integrated into an arduino/rpi system to monitor filament dry boxes and be viewed from the dash?
yes
Would you recommend the OpenWRT route? Or something like a dedicated Wireless Mesh system (like Netgear or Nest)?
Or just buy some access points and wire them
If wiring them isn't an option. š
As much as I would have jumped on Google's Tri-band Nest... I do not like the fact that I can not switch to the 2.4 Ghz band. š
(Most of my smart lights require 2.4 Ghz)
Do other Tri-band mesh systems allow that?
I have the Asus ZenWiFi, works mostly well enough, though it does ignore the channel choice at times
Not sure what can not switch to the 2.4 Ghz band means though
That means that to set up the smart lights, I would have to move the router (or the lights) outside of the range of 5 Ghz (20+ feet) before it would switch to the 2.4Ghz band.
Instead of having a dedicated SSID for the 2.4 Ghz band...
Sometimes I don't word things correctly (autistic). š
So, it is hard to tell if I'm not being clear. Sorry. š
And what do you mean that it ignores the channel choice?
Is that like: You have it selected to use least active channel in your area, that it might just randomly use a more active channel instead?
Pick channel 36, and later you find it uses 52, while showing 36 in the UI
Oh. š Weird.
Just a bug I suspect
Hey all! I am looking for some advice. I want to buy several of those shelly TRVs to manage the heating in my house but I was wondering, I probably also need a smart thermostat in order to really have this working correctly, am I right?
Looking for device to buy:
- State of Israel
- 20-30$ per device
- ZigBee
- I need the thinnest ZigBee outlet repeater, thanks.
When you say outlet do you mean in wall plug outlets or a smart plug
my bad, i meant something like that:
i think this question fits here, but would i need to re-install HA if i'd want tp upgrade the memory on a computer converted to HAOS
RAM upgrade? No need for a reinstall.
That question leads me to ask, HAOS doesn't concern Hardware ID, right?
what do you mean....
are you talking about the ID in Z2M?
No, I'm talking about the hardware ID of the PC
Ok, so that begs the question: What is "hardware ID"?
it's not really a term used by anyone
PCs have their own Hardware ID, that is changed once you replace something in computer (motherboard, memory, etc)
it probbaly has another name i'm not aware of
as you said, idk if it's used today
you mean the registry id for windows registries?
it might be it idk
I think tha'ts only a windows thing
specifically for the registry in windows
I don't believe HA does anything with that, primarily because HA doesn't run on windows
Alright, thanks for the answer and patience.
fwiw, linux does have a similar thing
but it's more of hardware connected to the os, not necessairly an ID for the whole computer
That does matter to HAOS
e.g. when selecting a USB device to use
yeh, like install an aditional stick to go from 4gh to 8
probably the thing M$ does where it wants you to reactivate windows when it detects to many changes to hardware
no you don't need to reinstall, it's a 64bit OS š
if it was still 32 i'd be very disapointed
because this feels a bit unhealthy. although just throwing more memory at it might not be a solution
Depends on what free -m shows
Thatās an old cpu
Swap being used isn't always bad
Odd, I've been using windows for 25 years at this point and I've never seen what you're talking about
computers were my step up after legos
you're an old CPU
Don't get me wrong here, i'm not a windwos fan boy. Just never seen it require a new key after changing hardware.
with windows xp and windows 7 if you changed "too much " of the hardware you'd have to reactivate
not even mobo changes, just hard drive changes (if I didn't move the image and used a fresh hardrive)
now they store the keys in bios
I did once or twice, but heard of others having it happen a lot
but my cycle has always been alternating every 4 years. This 2 year I update mobo/processor, next 2 year mark I update video card and pariferals (if needed).
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU Q6700 @ 2.66GHz
that's what I'm running HA on right now
I think I always do mobo/processor/harddrive every 4 years, which I just use an old pro license
would explain why I never hit that
ah
You learn something new every day tho
I honestly didn't think I could learn anything new about windows (outside the deep bowels of the system)
So, TIL windows is a dick about hardware changes
well these days you can change everything but the mobo and be fine
you'd have to reneter your key changing the mobo
At the cost of memory these days, it surely isn't great to see that kind of usage
I can't help it, somehow I always end up seeing the worst kinds of issues
just my luck really
The best thing is upgrading licenses
As this won't work out of the box with your average key
However you can deactivate windows, and then activate it again
Which will work with any key
No idea who thought that's the way to go
well chatGPT can give out windowsXP keys LOL
I wonder how long before someone gets it to do 7/10 keys
Lmao
Does anyone have any experience moving Philips Hue lights off of the Hue Bridge, and onto the HA SkyConnect Zigbee controller? Just wondering whether it's worth having all zigbee devices on the same controller? Would there be less interference doing that? Currently Hue Bridge is on channel 25, SkyConnect is on channel 20.
I mean the ones you use to install the system are public available
And from there windows takes pretty much anything
Can you even run those hue bulbs without the hub?
Yeah they can connect to the SkyController, at least with one bulb I've tested
I know #zigbee-archived would be better
They just tie it to a windows account now
if you have a windows account
Hm that seems quite uncompany like. I approve of this nice thing
I still run accountless at home
SkyController / Hue Bridge both use zigbee, at least mine does. There may also be wifi verisions, not sure
But cool kids just use https://github.com/massgravel/Microsoft-Activation-Scripts
you mean a 'live' account, every windows install alive has windows accounts š
Thatās probably where he got HWID from
gameservers also ban by HWID
Thatās what they call it but like petro said hardware Iād doesnāt really make sense
how do you log in? as a service?
no, when I say accountless I mean "I don't have a microsoft account"
I just log in to a local admin account
They force you to make one for new win11 installs itās crazy
no they don't
Ya they do
not for pro
They removed the workaround
I just installed win11 at work 2 days ago
windows home, yes. Windows pro no
oh I don't have windows home anywhere, work or home
Can always install pro and downgrade to home :^)
Guess my googling failed then
or install 10 and upgrade š
I set up computers all the time, however win10. But we've been vetting win11 upgrades for the plant because it's coming at some point
not looking forward to supporting another OS
yeah I already moved 3 over at the shop to win11, not a fan
still have WinNT, 7, and 10 running all around the plant
Win11 is just a win10 with lipstick on
Masterchief is mourning
Yes
cortana was super annoying
Well it would have been super amazing if they'd put the new ai stuff in there
No great company for me then :/
I built a dll into our installer that disabled cortana so that it would search the computer first before searching the internet when using window key
I think it was the only implementation where tts ran local if I remember that correctly
I need a ceiling fan controller
any opinions, or a database of ones to look at?
US
$100
no preference
can control fan, any bonus stuff is fine
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
A pj2101a
Itās a clamp metering device. Donāt know what you mean exactly by what integration it uses
Integrations are how you add devices in Home Assistant, you not knowing implies you're using ZHA and your device doesn't seem to be supported
Do I need a smart thermostate when using smart thermostatic valve controllers?
ZigBee outdoor thermometer
Maybe I donāt understand it correctly, but to be clear, itās not the problem that HA doesnāt recognize the metering device, it does, and it gives out most values, but those values are not recognized in the energy tab from HA
Itās a Tuya device, not a zigbee
That's the issue with the integration that doesn't properly classify the entities
you could cheat by manually setting the device class
which may get overwritten by the integration again but once in the panel it stays there kinda
Or create a template sensor
yea that may also be a nicer option
~~it sadly doesnt propagate through helpers ~~
or could do it automatically š
automation recursion is forbidden by the law
has anyonme tried this tuya energy meter clamp?
do they work with Home assistant https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Transformadores-Abrazaderas-Electricidad-VoltĆmetro-AmperĆmetro/dp/B0CBBW25YK/ref=sr_1_20?__mk_es_US=Ć Mà ŽĆĆ&crid=2PZENX9N63FLW&keywords=CT+METER&qid=1692677293&sprefix=ct+meter+%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-20
Especificaciones: En la aplicación puede mostrar: Elec por hora. (KWh) Hoy Elec. (KWh), Elec mensual. (KWh) Elec. (KWh) Ele actual (mA), potencia actual (W), voltaje de corriente (V), Ele total (KWh) Datos técnicos: Voltaje nominal: 100-240V CA 50/60Hz Rango de corriente medible: 80A WiFi Frecuen...
Tuya wifi... 𤮠Their API is awful and does not work well with home assitant without a lot of messing about. Avoid. Their zigbee stuff is ok.
If you want a clamp meter go Shelly.
They can when using Tuya Local or localtuya
Tuya api, ew
what's wrong with it?
I've had to incorporate this once in a project, wasnt that great an experience. Also I find that a lot of times I had to resend commands for devices to take follow an action.
ah, n = 1 experiences... yes then it must suck for you
Ended up in a place with this 6 gang switch for high energy appliances.
My initial plan is to use DIN rail switches with power metering (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004747066832.html) down the line from their respective breakers in the fusebox. Since the 5th switch is empty, Iāll use it to power either of these 6 gang switches (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004084521839.html) or (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005131982729.html) and relay the switch entities to the zigbee breakers.
Good plan?
I would not use smart switches for high powered devices like that
most smart switches are rated for 600 watts at most
that goes for relays too
DIN rail switches are rated for 60A+
hi, i want to start making my home smart and idk what device to buy to have a nice exp, what i mean by it is that they do not phone home and work nice with HA
do you know what zigbee, zwave or matter is?
if ur talking to me then only those two zigbee, zwave
and do you have a zigbee or zwave stick that works with HA?
no i have nothing i want to know what to buy before just buying something
you need to decide what protocol you want to invest in first
i think zigbee as it is by ieee
if you want something to wet your toes get a cheap matter over wifi bulb
why is that relevant in your choice?
I started w/ zwave, I now have everything. A bluetooth network, zigbee, zwave, and matter.
I avoid cheap wifi crap
me too, that's why i buy cheap good wifi devices
i want it to be open buy zwave is also fine because as far as i know they do not need ip/wifi to work and that what i want to start so i dont need to configure iot vlan
some is good, most is bad. You're more likely to end up with a dud if you try to expand via TUYA
then choose one. their respective channels have pinned messages useful for beginners
they don't use IPs in any protocal separate from wifi
zigbee uses the same frequency
same with matter
(i think)
Schneider Electric Indonesia. A9N18513 - C120H - circuit breaker - 3P - 100A - D curve.
Hey all, is there any 'recommended' WLAN+Bluetooth half mini (pcie+usb) netbook m.2 type module for NUC and SFF PC?
Looking to add solid BT presence detection to hp G2 mini pc running HA in a proxmox VM
Depends i guess, there are adapters for m.2 to AE/ngff
Thread uses 2.4 GHz, yes.
Hi! Why cant i change color on this gu10 bulb? It works from tuya app. I run Local Tuya btw.
I snagged a cheap b+m coral that will take the NVME slot, so looking to add Bluetooth with chassis antennas in the WLAN+BT module (aka m.2 a+e?) slot.
There's a whole bunch of these cheap as chips refurb wlan+bt modules, but which one to go for? Intel? other oem? bgn, bgn+ac, BT 3.0, 4.0, 5.0? Won't be using the WiFi for anything, just want solid BT presence detection
Just use Bluetooth proxies with esp32 and no bt on hass itself
Itās confirmed faster at this point as well
esphome bluetooth proxy info from bdraco:
If you are making active connections itās recommended to deploy the proxies in pairs on opposite sides of the room since when a connection is in progress it cannot receive advertisements.
If the rooms are close enough it wonāt matter so much about having two per room since the active connection range is much shorter than the advertisement reception range
You just need a second one in advertisement range while the other one is connecting. Usually that can be anywhere in a 2500sqft house
Deploy one per every 625sqft with a minimum of 2 and you are good
Tldr just put two or three around the house for full coverage
Ah ok, I have a spare esp32 I could bodge into the case somehow. Was hoping to avoid going over WiFi, and having to move microscopic resistor to use the UFL antenna connection on the esp32. Single story, just want simple reliable home and away detection
Itās actually suggested to use wired Ethernet esp32 variants like the olimex ones
you're a wired esp32
You wish
din switch rating of 63a suses me out
That's a nice solution, but for the price of one, I could try almost every single half mini wlan module, before even adding cable and case or box. Also would like to avoid bits of hardware in obscure places if possible. Maybe there is commercial smart light/plug socket with esp32 that could be flashed?
I take it Bluetooth proxy is only faster when using esp32 with wired networking. There's also the 'recommended' BT USB dongles, but everything on that list with sma antenna is being scalped it seems, plus not as neat as built-in
There are quite a few, Shelly devices can be BT proxies with their firmware
Oh nice, that's an excellent suggestion too, I wonder about range tho. My HA PC is conveniently located centrally, so bluetooth module with a dipole would really be absolutely ideal in my scenario.
Might just take one for the team and try a couple of these half mini wlan+bt modules from eBay, maybe steer towards those also found in the NUCs where people seem to have had success https://community.home-assistant.io/t/bluetooth-on-nuc/51624
Hello, Iāve seen a couple of folks using NUC devices to run HA. Bought a NUC7I3BNH couple of days ago and it runs great - except Bluetooth. I tried adding the iwlwifi firmware from Intel for the 8265 chipset into /lib/firmware, but still without success, although the module seems to get loaded: user@srv01:~$ lsmod | grep iwl iwlmvm ...
Hello, I am looking for recommendations for Hardware to connect Devices to my new Home Assistant Server. I got lost with all the options during my research, so I am hoping you might help me to find what I need.
I am currently operating ZigBee and Thread devices (And various WiFi connected systems)
My Home Assistant runs on hardware in my cellar, so plugging in a simple USB dongle like SkyConnect wouldnāt work for me, since the devices are too far away.
So, I am looking for a cheap and small gateway system, to let my Home Assistant talk to my ZigBee and Thread devices.
I would prefer a bridge which is capable to communicate using Wi-Fi, but I could also use an Ethernet connection (but it limits my options where to place it for best radio connectivity).
I guess ideal for me would be a device like a āSONOFF ZBBRIDGE PRO Zigbee 3.0ā, if it would also support thread communication?
The bridges I found cost more than 100 ā¬, which seems too expensive to me, for just managing the connectivity, especially if I consider that I might need more than one. I donāt need it to run a full home assistant, just as a gateway for the connectivity.
The Raspberry Pi based solutions I found refer to run Home Assistant on the device, which also requires one of the more powerful Raspberry Pi. But I guess for a Raspberry Pi Zero should be enough to just route the communication, or isnāt it? The problem is that it does not come with a proper USB port to plug in a SkyConnect.
Any thoughts or recommendations on this?
I believe both ZigBee and Thread operate as a mesh, devices that are always powered usually act as 'repeaters'. So you just need a capable device somewhere between your 'zones' to extend the network
https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p2-based-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/ you only need one coordinator
Sounds like a PoE one is what you need
Poe oof
Or Ethernet if you donāt have PoE to still centrally locate it
That sonoff thing is bad though.. donāt buy that
When it all falls apart is when you have a far away outbuilding or something and absolutely need multiple gateways
does anyone have a recommendation for voice response speakers? I have found a few different solutions but so far all of them require you to poke a button to start the voice prompt
and by gosh if I'm going to poke a button to turn the lights on and off, I might as well just keep poking the button that's always been right there on the wall
@cold moon Thank you for the sugguestion. My switch does not support PoE, and as far as I can see the device does not support Thread, right?
You can buy a efr32 version if you want to use zha and thread
and you can get a PoE injector to power it
I kinda wonder why no one has yet pushed this over openwrt if it's 2.4ghz
Getting an injector to power another device is pretty silly ngl
it often beats trying to find a power outlet at the device's location
@cold moon So, this device should work?
https://tubeszb.com/product/efr32-mgm21-ethernetusb-serial-coordinator/
Wouldn't he need a router as well as a coordinator
No
Mains devices route / repeat
Itās generally suggested not to buy dedicated routers instead of devices that have a purpose and also route like bulbs, light switches, etc
Thereās a few devices that donāt follow the spec like sengled bulbs that donāt route tho
@marsh lichen do you have to do anything special with your efr32 coordinators to use them with zigbee+thread? Just flash with multipan fw?
correct, I haven't done extensive testing on how well it behaves with the multi-pan addon. thread support in HA is better with other thread border routers right now so it has not been a high priority for me.
other border routers meaning apple
Remind me, if you have HomePod minis etc do you just join devices via hass for thread and they just workTM?
Well that explains why one of my bulbs disconnects and the other is fine, lacking the routing, and they're the only two zigbee devices I have
others would know more on that than me, I think you join via apple then share the device via matter to HA
Don't aqara devices have difficulties routing some things too due to modifying the standards for their systems
The device seems only to be available in the US,.. do you know of any alternatives?
Tube above is the one who makes them. He ships worldwide
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/guide/adapters/#recommended otherwise you can pick off this list for efr32 but you wonāt be using it with Zigbee2mqtt
Zigbee to MQTT bridge, get rid of your proprietary Zigbee bridges
Oh, I got confused because the site asked for the state I am living in, but I can also select a country.
I donāt see any other network connected efr32 on the list tho
Thought there were a few
Hey you guys think this thing would solve my BT module requirement while eliminating need for a separate ZigBee dongle?
https://z-wave.me/products/mpcie/
Looks like it's using the same EFR32MG21 chip as the skyconnect and ZigBee ZBDongle-E.
Is EFR32MG21 capable of simultaneous multi-protocol BT, ZigBee and matter/thread?!
Perhaps matter/thread presence detection will come to android/ios in some form that will eliminate need for bluetooth?
Ah it's not released yet, and I think would need an adapter from mpcie to fit in m.2 wlan slot
I have a pi3 with an allo boss type audio hat attached. I'm trying to get audio from VLC to pass through it. Using HomeAssistant OS. I was looking at the ha audio info command to try to set this up but it's giving me a Unexpected Server error. pactl doesn't show the card. Any ideas? Not sure what else to mention.
does anyoen know if a SONOFF POWR2 will work with a 3 wire 230v device? I expects 3 wires, LNG in and LNG out. I don't know how these devices get power but I am hoping using it against one hot will work to disrupt the circuit.
I am trying to add smart switch to a PTAC. I have it runnin on solar and I need it to turn on and shut off with the sun
what is your ideal door/etc sensor that is Zigbee/ConBee2/deCONZ compatible? i just got an aqara sensor but after a few days of working, it is stuck in the 'open' state
my best is besterer.
the besterest
a man of culture as well I see
SAMOTECH any good? i dont mind trying a few different makes, just because, cheap
Any other moderate-to-heavy users of LoRa around? I'm keen to compare notes, if so. (heck, can we reach critical mass that we need our own channel for itā½)
Been liking for the most part how the Milesight gateway I'm using (https://www.milesight-iot.com/lorawan/gateway/ug65/) does LoRa<->MQTT translation, but thinking about quality-of-life - and by extension, how you might convince others that LoRa is a sane and reasonable thing to do - and if anyone has any desire to start a collaboration on something in the vein of Zigbee2MQTT for device configuration (because the scripts I wrote for hand-configuring devices via MQTT discovery are mighty gross and I'm kinda over it).
Come to think of it, I should do a write-up somewhere on my new garage door control / automation.
Does anyone use one of these with security? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD
The docs have a section about adding in secure mode but I can't get it to work. It keeps saying "added with security 'none'".
After added it without security, the debug info shows ""supportsSecurity": false"
Are the docs wrong or am I missing something?
Wall switches are the most natural way to control a home. And remote controls are the most natural way to move that control around your home. This 2 button edition of from WallMote from Aeotec is a 2-in-1 wall switch and remote control for Z-Wave home automation. Powered by a rechargeable battery...
The docs I'm referring to are: https://aeotec.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/6000162392-wallmote-quad-user-guide- specifically the section "Include WallMote Quad as a secure device:"
Looks like the ptwc has the normal thermostat wires. Is a way to control these in home assistant? I don't need an actual thermostat so maybe a pi zero can allow HA to trigger the air conditioner using the thermostat wires?
Everything I'm seeing seems like too many step. Maybe I can just use a relay. I just want the ability to turn the AC on and off based on a HA automation, basically if my solar wattage is over something like 1000W I want the AC on
Open mqtt gateway
@tawny viper That's actually pretty cool, had I not gone the (admittedly, slightly proprietary) way I have gone. My LoRa gateway does the translation to and from MQTT natively (programmed via Javascript, of all freaking things), it talks directly to Mosquitto on my HA server without any additional steps
It's on my todo list, Lora that is, I'll get there, it's a long list lol
what would garbage sensor do? yell at you if you dont take out the garbage on garbage day?
(i need that)
no, I'll know when I have to go put my bins back cuz the men will leave them in the road, and someone will crash into them because no street lights
because they come when they feel like, because island time
i bring them out monday night, bring them in tuesday night
but i do want the reminder to yell at me
yeah but do they leave them in the street?
like a prescense sensor
nah, I live on a main road, and its a private company not a goverment
so they dont want to get sued or pay to replace them
well my garbage bins live on a main road
i have to drag mine out a long driveway
my driveway is 1320ft long
Some people use ibeacons for this
mine is longer, and I have bears
Oh itās long?
@cold moon yea, that works though, when it gets outta range
weve discussed buying a polaris to take the trash out
and bears, lots of bears, even the special bear proof cans dont work
well, we do not have bears
Well basically they just remind you to move them if theyāre in range with a simple automation
we have mosquitoes that dive bomb you in swarms
oh we got that too, I got a swamp on my property,
I have 4 ponds and some marsh
but gotta love the 300ft of beach
im going cheap
They last years
magnet in attached to bin, reed switch in bin holder
10+ for some ibeacons I think
hmmmm, that could work, and a simple "is the ibeacon within range"
im putting a solar panel down there
is enough, because my driveway is so long
to charge everything
ohh, this is perfect, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PCGF4QM/ref=emc_b_5_t
Our 4-year battery life, water-resistant beacon with a unique button trigger AND motion sensor The button and/or motion sensor can optionally be configured so that beacon only broadcasts for X seconds after button is pressed or beacon is moved. Alternatively, it can broadcast a different UUID aft...
exactly what I want
just trying out for the first time mmwave sensor, got one of those athom ones. It was pretty easy to get it to HA with esphome and seems to be working fine. I just now need to tweak it to only detect inside my room (3x3m). Even on lowest distance (1.9m) and sensitivity, it still pick movent around the door. Any ideas?
Anyone else facing an issue where you're not able to connect to Home Assistant after some time? It seems to happen randomly. I'm running Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi 4 with 8GB of RAM. I even changed to a new power supply..
More for #installation-archived than here
Careful with Athom stuff, they have a problem with bricking and there's no way to recover short of buying a programming chip and soldering it on. I have their v2 smart outlet and it turned into a paperweight just because I changed my wifi setup.
Can't handle 2.4ghz and 5ghz networks with the same SSID, no WPA3 support either. The way they're programmed they'll bootloop until you completely turn off the SSID they're set for instead of gracefully failing to their backup mode. And with no way to reflash from hardware you've got a pricey paperweight if anything goes wrong.
it picks up movement due to the PIR sensor not having any range settings
hmm, that makes sense. Automation will have to handle that then
you need to change the configuration to ignore the PIR sensor
Blakadder's ESPHome Configurations. Contribute to blakadder/esphome-configs development by creating an account on GitHub.
ironically it's running even better without the PIR
any links to share around that (thanks for the share)? btw, I was just browsing your blog today, I will try to attempt to replace the chip for a esp32, I am sure it will be fun. Thanks for the heaps of content
on another note, giving a zigbee smart switch that doesn't have "detach mode". Can you see any issues in just leaving the circuit on in one of the gangs and controlling via automation?
i think you can also just use "mmWave Sensor" entity for presence
only issue is when you really want to cut power you need to get access to the wires or cut it on the breaker
nah, it will be in the gang itself, I will just instruct people at home to not touch that one unless required š then I will use the other 2 (it's a 3 gang) to automate stuff
is there a command in home assistant cli like "dmideocde in linux" to see RAM info about speed, capacity... (lookin to add more ram and want to match everything... currently got 1x 4gb ddr3)
I have a roomba s9+, and also have a central vac system in my house. The roomba by itself is pretty useless because my dogs shed so much that the bag is full every day. I was thinking of running another line to my central vac and running it to the roomba base, but can't decide on the best way to trigger the evacuation from the roomba itself. My first thought was to disassemble the base and see if there was some relay i could tap into to trigger the central vac, but that's outside of my comfort zone as I'm not an electrical engineer š My 2nd thought would be to trigger it from the roomba integration, it seems pretty fast, although I'm not sure it's fast enough that the roomba wont think the bin is full. Either way it's going to be a bit complicated because I'll also have to put some sort of valve on the vacuum line as well so that the rest of the system works when needed. Ideas/thoughts?
Can you simply trigger X seconds after it docks?
yep, mine takes about 1 minute to cleanish
or it feels like a minute
clean the tray I mean
does everyone in here have a robot vacuum other than me?
has been left out of the party
My dog would eat the vacuum
recently moved into a house that has a couple dozen recessed lights (6" i think), and previous owner installed dimmable LED lights in all the units. I previously used a hue setup (hue hub linked to ha), but the cost of two dozen recessed hue lights is close to $1000 USD, so was looking for "alternatives". Found this - https://zigbee.blakadder.com/Gledopto_GL-SD-001.html - wondering if anyone else has any suggestions.
I just bought one a month ago, but was moving (see above), so haven't set it up yet.
I've got too many animals for that. If one of the dogs didn't do it in, one of the cats would.
I got 4, you're covered statistically
My cat just uses it as public transport around the house
this is mainly why I was afraid to buy one
you have one for each of my cats
Meanwhile my single cat has an entire fleet of vehicles
we're looking at a roborock one that's supposed to be really good at pet hair
As long as it has an empty station ...
I really like the these strips (addressable, impossible to see the individual diodes) but I don't really want to go the DIY route. Is there anything similar that is commercially available that people here have had success with? I'm US based if it matters.
a link would help eh?
Hello, Does anyone know if the remote for a Airborne Storm DC ceiling fan is 433mHz. I would like to see if my broadlink will talk to it and have HA control. Can't find anything on the specs. Does anyone have this brand of fan working with HA?
I just started playing with ha bluetooth proxy and got an ibeacon identified by the integration. How do I get more information about the device? No idea what that is haha
Depending on the length you want to run you're going to be linking strips and running wires for power injection either way, but if you want a prebuilt controller that supports open source firmware and integrates well with HA Athom's controllers seem to be pretty good. I picked one up recently for my kid's led strip and it's been legit so far.
Look up the FCCID of the remote, or whatever the equivalent regulatory body is in your country, and it'll tell you what frequency it uses.
It should be on some label or stamped onto the device, either on the back or inside the battery compartment or something.
Hello there, not sure this is the right channel. Just joined.
I'm looking for advise on which hardware to chose for my home automation project. I have Home Assistant already up and running. Ideally, I'd like to start with garden stuff, soil sensors, weather like sensors, etc. I want it to be local, it's fine to use cloud for setting up a hub or gateway but not to rely on cloud to push/pull anything else than firmware updates, perhaps.
It's a lot to take in for beginners that's why I'm seeking for your advise. Is it fair to start with a ConBee II plugged onto my HA server (container, in case it's relevant) and then buy ZigBee sensors/probes? Any gotchas, any brands. I know the USB sticks have limitations on number of devices and range, potentially among other things. Any gateways/hubs that would comply with the above premises that you'd recommend?
Not even sure I'm asking the right questions :/
Not conbee
Cc2652p dongle or PoE coordinator is what Iād suggest
Either using z2m or zha
Usb coordinator needs an extension cable on it
Check pins in #zigbee-archived for more
Does Matter replace Zigbee?
Matter doesnāt exist
err
Thatās the best way to think of matter
Are we talking about https://csa-iot.org/all-solutions/matter/ ?
Matter creates connections between devices, simplifies development for manufacturers, and increases compatibility for consumers.
Or are we being metaphysical
lmao
names these days I swear
Or maybe you mean nothing with Matter yet exists to be purchased
The basically beta IoT protocol with companies forcing users into hubs and not fully fleshed out?
That matter?
Most of us know better
I know nothing
You can scroll up in #matter-archived and #thread-archived to see the fun they have
just for the sake of knowing, why not conbee?
Cuz the sticks are known to have the most interference issues and are the worst option compared to other coordinators for zha or z2m
Idk how people keep coming here asking about conbee
There must be a lot of shitty blogs or something
hmm okay wow
well I'm definitely wary of the Amazon Apple Google combo there
imagine them working together on something
shudders
Is there something you prefer over Zigbee? @cold moon
Matter and thread are too new to need
I need plugs and speakers, basically
Zigbee and zwave both have merits it depends on hardware you want
Speakers.. idk thatās a future question
Well
I need to replace my echos
Diy voice assistants using open source TTS are coming along but not really here yet
At least not without issues
Well, https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zha has conbee 2 listed lol
You can ask in #voice-assistants-archived for that
that doesn't surprise me
but if I just want to play music on a specific speaker?
or say announce a timer is done
For smart plugs I personally use sonoff s31 Wi-Fi plugs flashed with open source esphome firmware
Thanks anyways, I'm reading now comments about CC2652P as a great improvement compared to conbee. Thanks for pointing me to it
okay nice that seems simple enough
@signal comet https://tubeszb.com/product/cc2652p2-based-zigbee-to-poe-coordinator-2023/ this is what I use
If you search here Iāve posted the yaml I use for them and pics and explanations for why
Tldr zigbee and zwave meshes are low bandwidth and the less traffic the better so I limit the traffic on them by not putting energy monitoring devices on them
And the open source fw allows for complete control like power on behavior and what they expose to home assistant and how
Examples
okay so which system are the Hue bulbs on, zigbee or zwave?
Hue are zigbee devices
too bad I can't just rip the zigbee unit out of this stupid echo and wire it up for my own nefarious purposes
Paired directly to the coordinator
No hue hub bullshit
You can buy a cheaper usb coordinator if you canāt justify the PoE cost
Or buy his non PoE version to save a bit
well the hassio box is going to be sitting in the network cabinet pretty much central to the house
Cool
we built the network cabinet behind the old defunct fireplace chimney š
Hassio is dead btw they renamed it to haos like two years ago
good to know
Youāll have to use a usb extender to get it away from interference
I've been eyeballing it for years but this is the first time I've jumped into it and actually played around
USB 3.0 can cause your Zigbee devices to fully stop functioning. In this video we show this by moving a Zigbee device and Zigbee adapter next to USB 3.0 port and cable.
The demo is done with a Home Assistant SkyConnect and IKEA Tradfri remote but this affects all Zigbee sticks and devices.
To avoid interference, use a shielded USB 2.0 extensio...
30 second video on why
Gotta get away from usb 3.x ports, ssds, network rack, etc
makes sense
I used to use a sonoff p dongle on a 10ft extension cord
the only thing wrong is I built the network in 2014 and I cheaped out and went with cat5e because cat6 was still over double the price back then
ugh I'm sorry CCA
that's one place I don't skimp
New York Cables solid copper all the way
we're talking about maybe next summer re-pulling all of them as cat6
it won't be too difficult, go down the crawl, pop all the staples out, tie the new cable to the old cable, PULL
go back in and staple it all up
re-punch the patch panel, re-punch all the jacks in the house
Iāve never heard of stapling down Ethernet
and I got this nifty keystone jack crimper for work, the wires go in the jacks at 45 degree angle so way easier to put in and minimize untwist, and then you stick it in the pliers and crimp once and it does all 8 punches and cuts
yeah by code it needs to be stapled to the joists in the crawlspace every 18 inches
Thatās called passthru pretty common now
Crazy I wouldnāt do that
Itās not high voltage Romex
this is why on my last network wiring job, I was a bit nervous when my inspector turned out to be the dude who trains the new inspectors
but he had zero notes on my job
Iām not a big wiring guy but Iāve seen u hook things that hold the cables
I certainly wouldnāt use staples bending the jacket
so you picked the PoE one to get away of noise and interference from other devices?
yeah that's what I used on that job, little plastic clippy things
oh the staples I use are special curved staples from a special staple gun that is designed to staple cat cables
And to better centrally locate
How good is the range? if not centrally located. Just wondering about my options for placing it
and to locate the coordinator where it'll have best signal to the devices
because often where the haos box is, isn't the greatest place for radio talking
The mains powered devices will act as routers / repeaters for the mesh
okay I see, this makes sense
Technically it can be far away and hop multiple times but the less hops the better
so the coordinator really only has to talk to one or two devices and they can pass the message along
Kinda
but I assume it's like wifi meshing, you gonna lose performance with every hop away from the wired coordinator
how can usb 3.0 do this? its power connection maybe?
Thereās limits for amount of child devices one can have
New to all this stuff, between the names and all my head is spinning
Usb spec is fucked
you're killin me
I'm new to the home assistant thing but I'm surprised how much of my general IT and maker knowledge applies to everything about it
how hard was it to wire? I'm renting this house but could use a few ports around the house...
useful skills
well I put 2 wires everywhere we wanted a jack, for future expansion and fixability, we were pulling out of 4 boxes at a time
so it only took six crawls to pull all the wires in the house
and then another amount of time crawling around down there with staple guns
you make it sound simple
compared to some of the buildings I've wired, yah
had one building where we had to poke through three cinderblock walls right near each other with barely enough space to make the corner safely
terrible
but we found out the plastic core in cat6 means you can REALLY PULL on it before it breaks
and conduit lubricant is important
sounds...scratchy
is there like a code or something that people in the USA typically adhere to?
regarding running wires
yeah there absolutely is a code for low-voltage wiring
oh I didn't even consider that cat6 can be considered that due to poe
and in most states in the USA, you can do your own low-voltage wiring at your home or your business. You plan it out, you get a building permit, you do the work, you have it inspected, the inspector signs off the permit, job's done.
in Oregon, the electricians union lobbied to require licensing for low-voltage wiring
so it takes 650 classroom hours and 2000 hours working under a master to be certified for low-voltage wiring