#hardware-archived
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I migrated home assistance last week from my raspi to a hp microserver gen8 on which i run proxmox and pfsense, went pretty smooth
Hey everyone 🤓
I’m thinking of putting my electric oven (rated at a maximum of 3490 Watts) on a smart plug with a 16A rating to track its consumption. In theory this should be okay, as we have 240V here in Germany and thus 16A should handle 3840 Watts. But alas, I’m not an electrician and wanted to ask here. Thanks everyone ☺️
That is a huge oven, but yeah, should be fine with a reputable brand plug
And you will probably never run it at 100% anyway
Wouldn't recommend a cheap plug for that sort of wattage
Is Meross considered a brand plug? I really don’t know 🥲
I run my water heater with a tplink plug, it is 3000w, the plug is 16a
That’s what I thought, yeah. But what if it passes 16A? Does the plug blow up and catch fire or does the breaker pop? 👀
Alright, I’ll check those out ☺️
It should pop the plug tbh, if it is designed properly
The plug may catch fire
Alright, that’s something I want to avoid then 😅
Would you trust an IKEA manual with those energy claims? 🤔
Cheap plugs often claim 16A when they really don't even support 10A
I'd trust Ikea over Sonoff
Tp link tapo plugs are great. Plus benefit of being sold in stores too
Okay, sounds good then 🤓
Do you need to switch the oven with the plug?
Nope, just want to track the energy usage with the dashboard in HA 🤓
One safe Idea would be to use she Shelly EM instead, it is not cheap and needs to be build in a separate electircal box but there is no current flowing over the measurement unit because it is using an amperage clamp
We don’t have them here 🥹
Yeah, I saw those on Amazon! But I was kinda scared of fumbling around in my electrical box 😅
To be safe, you would want the plug to be rated for a higher current draw than your fuse or breaker. Or use a CT instead.
perhaps one local electrician could do this for you - tampering with the breaker box is no good idea, i thought of an extension cable with the shelly in the middle (in a box)
Hmm, okay… I think the oven is on a 32A breaker or something along those lines. I might not do this after all 🥲
Hmm, so cutting open the oven cable and soldering the wires inside the box as a pass trough? 👀
32 Amps in residential is for sure no standard here in germany
Alright, I may be totally off. I have no idea after all… it’s a special socket, that’s all I know 🙈
might need a smart heavy duty breaker for that, $$$
more like a extension cable - is i three phase?
I don’t know 🥹
I’ll try to find out 😅
is it an oven with cooking plates?
yeah a shelly 3em will do that fine
Well, I have two different units (oven and stove) connected to one plug I think 🤔
And after a second thought, that destroys the 16A idea since there is probably more going through 🙈
if you got the oven and the stove connected to one outled the it is probably three phase
with 3 16A breakers
Okay, but if that’s the case, a 16A plug could work? Since the breaker would pop if if passed that mark? 🤔
the problem is, as others here mentioned: most of the plugs - if not all do not meet the printed on specs
downside on a plug is the current is always flowing over a eventually cheap chinese relay
Hmm, okay 😢
That makes sense 🙁
But it could provide an opportunity to sue someone 🤭
have fun with sueing chines companies 😄
You want to track only your oven / stove? if not think about a shelly 3em in your breaker box installed by an professional 😉
Alright, I’ll look into hiring someone 🙈
This project is getting increasingly expensive 🥲
but you get a nice energy dashboard in homeassistant 😉
Probably still cheaper to hire someone than dealing with a fire and renovating the appartment after 🙊
Yeah, power monitoring for more than a 15 A load isn't going to be cheap. ESPHome has some instructions for a 'CT Clamp Current Sensor' with a development board, if you're ambitious. Otherwise, there are smart energy monitor systems, like Sense that monitor the main breaker phases or the Emporia that monitor all circuits in your breaker panel.
rated at 16amp at 220v? The plugs i've looked at have "max amp" and "max wattage" specs because they are 110-240v capable, so the max-amp isn't "real".
Im trying to flash GL-S10 as a ESPHome BT gateway using this website https://blakadder.github.io/bluetooth-proxies/. But the flashing halts on "Preparing installation..." every time i tried. Anyone has managed to get this flashhed? What am i doing wrong here?
#diy-archived may be better able to help you
Has anyone got their finger on the pulse of Yoolax blinds? Their site isn't accepting payments and seems to be out of stock on Amazon
Looking to start setting up some home cams inside and outside, outside isn't really for intrusions (I live in the middle of the woods) more for catching passing wildlife? I'm more for opensource hardware if possible and I'm not against building my own or flashing some firmware if needed
All the camera guys hang out in #cameras-archived
Sounds like you’ll want to go the frigate route
I'll pop over there thanks @cold moon !!
any recommendation for a slider dimmer for UK style wall box, that connects with zigbee?
Does anyone use a fire hd as a wall mounted tablet to control HA? Is it the best tablet for that?
Would prefer to be anle to use the camera as an rtsp stream/surveillance camera when out of the house too
I have a bluetooth ESP Muse Luxe speaker. It can't be detected in HA in any way, not microphone, not as a speaker. I was trying to use it in Rhasspy Assistant but without luck. Is this ever be supported? Anyone knows?
Are there any Chinese amperage-voltage meters working with HA?
why would you look for a Chinese one?
Need an affordable one and with delivery to my state
What's the budget you're looking at? How many sensors do you want?
If you don't mind modding things, using emporia with a custom nosed firmware might be an option. I haven't tried it yet personally but I was searching for one as well and found it.
With 2 main 100A sensors + 8 circuit 50A sensors, it costs ~$125, but needs to flash the firmware manually.
I can't guarantee that it works, but it should, unless they change things with a new revision of the board. https://gist.github.com/flaviut/93a1212c7b165c7674693a45ad52c512
Interesting option, thank you! Not sure if I can setup it though. Will read deeply.
I’ve recently found cheaper and easier solution - Shelly EM meter with 50A clamp (enough for my needs). At least I have some choice now 🙂
hope im right here, im looking reduce my electricity usage and one idea is cutting the docking stations at least over night. naturally this would mean that my vacuum needs to charge in the morning.
my question: is the charging going to use more power than keeping it "online" the whole night?
I think you will need to measure it by yourself for your hardware and power costs. Just connect it to smart power outlet and measure costs for both variants 🙂 Keep in mind that vacuum should not discharge at night for a lot, and charging lithium batteries from near 100 level, say 90, to completely 100 won’t use full charging dock power potential.
thanks, thats good to know. i'll see if i can measure it. don't wanna change it just to see that it consumes more power 😄
A single smart plug with energy meter is pretty cheap and ha integrates nicely. I use tplink Kasa plugs
who can help with (active mode on bluetooth proxies.) settings
what exactly?
I install all atom device and i see this devices in HA. But i want this use for my BLE phone tracking. I dont know how use the yaml file or how to set up this file to my HA. I live with HA only two weeks...
your BLE phone has to emulate an iBeacon
if it does the BT proxy will catch it
did you install the bt proxy using the web installer?
yes and also in HA phone app i enable i beacon. Now i see in HA this..
@heady reef I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
I really don't know what that means. I see that the device is unavailable and in one case it is 10m away
Hello! I am starting my smart home (upgrading an existing structure in Wisconsin, USA) from scratch and looking for recommendations on hardware. I am looking to automate lighting, security, and anything that can save me time. I have a dedicated server and network with POE capabilities, however I prefer wireless in some instances since I don't like putting holes in things. Any particular brands I should be sticking to and steering away from?
I have had bad luck with Merkury bulbs already so they are off the list. Budget is not an issue.
You gotta hone in a bit more. Zigbee, Zwave, and wifi are all good options depending on use case
Zigbee has the most smart bulbs and you can bind them with zigbee light switches so they always work even if hass is down
Zwave only has a couple bulb options but a pretty good selection of smart switches, dimmers, and sensors
Wi-Fi you can get cheaper rgbw cct bulbs flashed with esphome, tasmota, or wled
Explaining what you want to do helps hone in even more
As far as particular brands, for zigbee you can’t go wrong with hue bulbs and motion sensors
For zwave zooz and aeotec make good products
Is Zigbee a brand or protocol?
Protocol
You buy a zigbee coordinator (PoE or usb) and then pair various devices to it and make a mesh
Same with zwave and a controller usb stick
Hue devices are ‘built’ to be used with their proprietary hue hub but work great paired to a zigbee coordinator
Home assistant would be controlling the coordinator using a driver such as zha or Zigbee2mqtt
Power outage has nothing to do with what I’ve said above
Long term power outage would be the only case where my server would be down
3 Server HA Proxmox cluster
Zwave and zigbee controller / coordinator are still single points of failure
I have a backup generator but my server rack would get shut down due to power consumption
You can backup the nvm on them and restore to a new device if you have them backed up though
So I couldn't mesh in 2 controllers?
I think it’s possible in some scenarios
Look it up on whatever driver you decide to go with
Yep
Hi!
I am setting up my home automation based on KNX with HA as my server. I need to select smart door locks for my home that can be integrated with HA.
I am keen on:
- August Smart Lock Pro with WIFI bridge
https://august.com/products/august-smart-lock-pro-connect
or - any option from Yale that may be available in India
https://yaleonline.in/collections/smart-locks-for-home-with-fingerprint?gclid=Cj0KCQjwk5ibBhDqARIsACzmgLTfeyla77CIFFnpKNtb8jVKBHhGLrHRMZiEQeEGY-oWQdS32FgPLBoaAqGtEALw_wcB
Can somebody guide me what would be the best option for me.
Thanks
I would prefer a full blown access control system whenever possible. I don't really like those all in one smart locks. This is just my personal opinion. But whatever you do, don't use those Chinese all in one password lock keypad that has all the electronics inside. Those can be cracked by just opening it up and shorting a wire.
Thanks. Can you suggest a full blown access control system?
I can't. I don't have any experience with it. But after seeing many smart locks with scary vulnerabilities in them, I won't consider them anymore.
Any ideas on smart locks for euro profile? I am looking for something that from the outside still uses a key, preferably something that can reuse the cylinder or at least allows to swap it
the goal is to have no electronics available outside and have the access to everything locked from the internet (just ingress VPN to HA)
Any recommendation for a label marker for home automation icons and such?
Brother has a label sticker printer that can connect to a computer iirc, haven't used it personally though
Yeah, they also have one with bluetooth for Android devices at half the price it seems
I see it's possible to print your own images with it so it should be possible, but I'm trying to find out if there's a simpler way to import and use material design icons.
also any experience with nuki locks?
apparently the bridge can be done with an esp32
Good morning all. I had a question on transferring your HA build to another piece of hardware.
I'm currently running HA via a VM but am going to transfer my build to an ODROID-N2+.
If I load my backup and use the same Zigbee controller, that should cover the transfer and transition of everything, right?
(Sorry if this is better asked in #installation-archived.)
I won't need to repair any of my Zigbee devices as they'll all be connected to the controller which is making the transition?
can esphome act as a BLE proxy?
Are you on the CIA's watch list? If not I'd be more concerned about the guy who shows up at your house with a big rock to throw through the window to get in vs. a "scary vulnerability in a lock" No one is going to sit outside your house and hack a lock when they can kick the door down. I don't know about KNX, but I'd just get whatever lock makes sense for you based on the features.
Hey, all the history data of my greenhouse sensor has been deleted is this normal ? normally i could see the data for the whole year but now it only show less then 1 month ( since last update )
Hello! I have recently set up home assistant on a raspberry pi 4, however for "reasons" I want to tear down the hdmi pipeline in the RPi and save a few mA:s, I was able to quickly fix the LED lights with the boot config, but no such option exist for the HDMI pipeline. Have anyone done something like this, any pointers would be nice, cheers for the potential help 🙂
just out of curiosity, is this some kind of off-grid system?
No, not this time, even if that would be awesome to do in the future.
I have multiple Aqara window/door sensor and all are working great. But I just unboxed a new pair and there is no blue light when I try to pair them. I measured the voltage of the battery and it's 100% full. 3.3 V. But no matter how long I press its button (multiple times in a row, holding it for 3s, for 10s,..) no reaction from the sensor. It's completely new, just opened the box. Any idea how to fix? Or is it just broken?
Have you tried gently throwing it against a wall?
I don’t have anything to add it sounds like you’ve tried all the options lol
does anyone know where to buy these separately?
https://www.safelyteam.com/product-details/5f9d650ff268b98214e737bf
Sounds like a bad board. Easy to return/exchange them, I hope?
Unfortunately not. Bought in China... just tried another battery that is working in another sensor. Also not working. And the battery from the sensor not working has no problems in another sensor. So it's 100% the sensor which is dead with any battery..
it could also be a defective button that simply does not pass the signal through. you could open it and see if you can bridge the contacts, if it does anything then it's the button
Does everyone here use Sonos speakers or are there other brands that I should be considering for my HA-controlled home audio?
Do you know any bluetooth buttons (ideally decent looking?) that work with home assistant over esphome proxy?
I use logitechmediaserver (LMS, or SqueezeBox) setup, and HA has built in control for those players. I have a zigbee button triggering a custom play for internet radio for example. It requires some infrastructure setup though.
Why did you go that route?
I have a mix, but mostly google nest stuff.
Anyone have recommendations for light switches on the european market?
I'm planning to replace several switches in places where I can't swap the bulbs, and i want to make sure i'm not stuck with a solution that I'll regret in a year (or less).
With Matter on the way into the market I'd like to choose a company that would upgrade their existing products to the new standard.
I'm lost in all the brands and it's hard to find out what will be usable for the next few years.
I have very little space left behind wall outlets/switches and started out with zwave for them. Served me very well and the zwave switches are the smallest, not even sonoff can beat that years later.
Everything else i have is zigbee though.
These standards won‘t die just because matter comes to the table (if anytime soon)
Fair point.
I have been streering away from Zwave since my impression is that even though Zigbee is more of a "messy" standard, with vendors implementing products with cluster id's that dont conform to the standard.
It seems that it still has the widest compatibility, and number of devices.
Matter being a nice point to that case. if i understand it correctly, it based on the cluster ids and such of Zigbee, making it easier for vendors to move towards the interoperable standard.
I've tested a couple products from Namron mainly since they had the longest list of cluster IDs on the zigbee2mqtt.io devices page. and I have been happy with the Dimmer (https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/1402755.html).
Although i have no idea if Namron will update their stuff..
I contacted them about firmware, and they said they're working on a page to download firmware updates.
but for now I need their hub to update. and thats the kind of stuff i want to avoid.
and why i like the IKEA products, since home assistant can OTA update them.
I'd not expect that any manufacturer will update their stuff to Thread/Matter
Those that do are likely to be the exception, since most will view it as an opportunity to sell new stuff
hmm. yeah. Thats probably the most likely outcome.
Urgh. maybe i should wait with the upgrade..
I really want the last few lights to be included in Home Assistant though 😛
These standards won‘t die just because matter comes to the table (if anytime soon)
Just buy Zigbee, or Z-Wave, or whatever, and worry about Thread/Matter in another year or two/five/ten
Home Assistant really does make the protocol a bit irrelevant.
As long as i can get it into HA, I'll be relatively sorted.
Since i'm mostly on zigbee i think I'll focus on that.
I like that i can tie switches and buttons together right on the Zigbee network so even if HA is down, the basics like on/off, dimming still works.
Is there any smart switch offers the following?
- uses zigbee
- can act as a dumb switch only when the HA is not available
- can be used as an input switch to HA when HA is online
- can send signal to HA to dim a dimmable smart light
Do you want the switch to NOT change the light it controls when connected to HA?
or would it be fine to have it allways control the lights it connected to, and update HA with the state when changed, and also allow HA to set state?
I want it to not actually cut the power to the lights when HA is available
Basically acts as a dumb switch when HA is not available, act as a smart button when HA is available
ah, nice. then i understand.
do you know if you have a Neutral wire in the place you want it installed?
and what market are you in? EU, US, Other?
hmm. i'm not familiar with the UK market.
And one nice to have feature would be power metering
Oops
What options do I have for 220/230 volts?
Pretty sure there's no smart switch that integrates with HA so that it knows if it should directly operate the load or not
That's the kind of thing that you'd need some custom firmware for, something that could check the state of HA and update its own config
Then do you know any UK smart button for controlling HA dimmer?
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/supported-devices/ has a load of options, including ones that sit between the switch and the light
https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/D1.html for instance
Ah, didn't know such list existed, thanks
You can search it (eg Dimmer)
is that "zigbee2mqtt" a must? do home assistant support zigbee natively?
#zigbee-archived has a pinned message that answers that, but you've got ZHA built into HA
ZHA doesn't have a list of known working devices
thanks
Got an old computer. i7-3770 is good enough to run home asisstant?
Plan to install ubuntu and then HA in docker.
Only definitely
This refers to my question? 😁
Ok thx. Needed to know it its enough 😁
If it has a CPUMark of over 900 it'll be ok
Cca 6400 😎 ok. Thx 😉
Shelly relays
Does Shelly have a Zigbee relay?
No but you wouldn't need zigbee for this scenario
I would use the js scripting in Shelly gen2s
Send an api command to HA
If error response, turn off relay
Unless they don't have a WiFi signal in the planned location(s)
hey all
Hello everyone ! I'm in the US, looking to install a bunch of smart switches, either Zigbee or Z-Wave. I'm still not decided between both, but what are my options for either ? I can't seem to find many options on Amazon. Almost all of them are WiFi ones.
Home Depot/Lowes have the Enbrighten ones, which is the newer GE/Jasco ones, which are similarly priced, and then there's Lutron Caseta, which is well beyond my budget.
I'm looking for opinions and suggestions about protocol and brand. Anyone have any ?
quick question just install sonoff lan, and have a sonoff B02-BL I can do dimmer and tempreture in the ewelink app, but its shows only as a switch in Home Assistant?
is this a bug in HA or is it a bug on the light
Zooz or Inovelli would be my choices
I haven't yet used any of Inovelli's new Zigbee line so I can't speak to them, but their zwave are nice
you need to ask yourself more questions. do you want rgb(w)cct bulbs and/or dumb bulbs and smart switches/smart dimmers? do you want bulbs and switches to still work when home assistant is down? do you want multi tap support?
Good questions. I want to stick with dumb dimmable bulbs, controlled by the switch. Not really looking to have any RGB bulbs right now. The switches should still be able to control the lights with HA down, for the wife approval factor. I don't need multi-tap support, just a 3-way dimmer.
@unreal rock, do you want battery zigbee wall switches or wired, since I went zigbee 3.0 bulbs you just end up turning off the light.
I am moving to zigbee switches battery and using the simple zigbee switch 5euros until IO can move to philips hue switch over time.
sticking a battery remote on the wall is not a solution lol
it depends since EU the switches are all live(hot) wire switches
most wall switches can be 30-40 euros
so you want smart dimmers which could be either zigbee or zwave and still work when hass is down. if you decide to buy smart bulbs later you can pair them with zigbee or zwave bulbs and use binding / direct association (respectively) to make them work even if hass dies
Yes, I didn't know about binding, but that would definitely work ! Thank you for letting me know about that !
for 3-way or 4-way setups you need to confirm the switch supports it. i use these and follow their wiring diagrams ~ https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen77-s2-dimmer/
binding is zigbee, direct associations (same thing) is zwave
you are limited in which devices can bind to which with zigbee, and to a lesser extent zwave
i.e. you cant bind a door/window sensor to a light bulb with zigbee to turn a closet on/off (so you need a hass automation) but zwave can do that
other limitations make zwave less exciting though ;P
How can I do zigbee switches (hardwired) but also have smart bulbs to do circadian lighting?
smart switches often have a "smart bulb mode" where they dont kill power to the bulbs
I could honestly go with either z-protocol, but I'm leaning towards Zigbee since I may be buying a few Aqara sensors or may be some other sensors and would like to have a proper mesh for when those walk in.
Bonus points if the Ikea blinds can join the Zigbee network and expand their reach to the gateway.
i have one test setup, and sometimes the light doesn't change colors when it turns on, i assume since it's "booting up", so to speak, heh
oh yeah? hmm
yeah that's all possible with either zha or zigbee2mqtt
i just have a random aliexpress 8 euro zigbee switch module, I don't think it has any settings
both protocols have their benefits but frankly i think i like my zigbee mesh better than my zwave mesh. both are sensitive to bad devices causing issues on the mesh but that's easy to figure out asking questions here or searching on reddit/forums
i.e. zwave is a low bandwidth sub ghz protocol so chatty devices like smart plugs reporting energy can flood the mesh, and with zigbee some devices are known to "black hole routes" aka a device that should act as a repeater is instead just.. fucking up routes
i have a bunch of aqara sensors paired via ZHA, they work well
the only issue i have is if home assistant reboots, the door/window sensors don't update their state until it opens or closes...so HA reboots, and all the doors/windows show "unavailable" until i go and open/close them to force them to update 😛
The sensors themselves work well. I don't doubt that. But without an established mesh with proper routers and repeaters, they're all useless. I had about 20 open/close sensors, 4 aqara sensors, and a few other zigbee devices, all battery operated, and only 4 zigbee wall outlets. All of those sensors worked fine for a couple of weeks, but once there was a power outage, most of them never came back on the network.
ah, weird
This could also have contributed to my sensors not reporting back anything making it look like they dropped off.
most of us have zigbee bulbs/light switches/smart plugs that repeat and form a good mesh
i have like 15 sensors in a fairly large 4 bedroom apartment, no repeaters at all, afaik
Yes, that mesh is what I'm looking to build.
maybe one ikea bulb that's more or less in the same area as the RPI w/ HA
Apartment is easy. Single level. I've done that. Now I have 3 levels, diagonally spanning may be 200 feet
yea fair enough
well you can always adopt me and i can help set that up
i've still got a few good years left in me
Honestly, I did think of buying some of the Ikea Zigbee bulbs and sprinkling them throughout the house so there's a mesh available. But what happens when I turn off the switch ? Does that router/repeater go offline causing the mesh to reconfigure itself ?
question about sonoff B02-BL, anyone know why it shows up as a switch via SONOFF Lan ?
Yes
And also no
my SONOFF B05-B shows as light
Aqara battery devices are known to not find a new route once they get one, so if you had a bulb acting as a repeater for it then that goes down you’ll have issues
In general routers shouldn’t just lose power
With either zig or zwave
Different devices have weird knacks
So bulbs are just repeaters, and not as useful as I think they would be
@cold moon thank you with that "devices are known to not find a new route once they get one, so if you had a bulb acting as a repeater for it then that goes down you’ll have issues"
you just solved a headache I couldnt wrap my head around with a sensor
Should be repeaters, some bulbs like sengled don’t even repeat
Not all devices, aqara specifically
Hue motion sensors don’t have that issue
Ah, ok.. that was a bad assumption on my part about all bulbs being repeaters
Well the spec calls for them to repeat I think
But zigbee is a lot more lax compared to zwave
With zwave there’s the zwave alliance which is supposed to force manufacturers to stick to the spec to certify and be able to sell them
But because of that it costs a company a lot of money to pay zwave alliance and join their cool kids club
So we have like no options for zwave rgbw bulbs lol
So far, considering everything, I'm better off investing in Zigbee for the lower cost, and building out the network for future sensors, and slightly better stability compared to Z-Wave. Any other pros for Zigbee ?
Future thread and matter support
Higher bandwidth for more traffic
With that being said, you need a zigbee coordinator to actually control the devices
I use and recommend the sonoff p series usb dongle
As in, a hub ?
If your pi or server isn’t centrally located or you just want to, you can buy a PoE coordinator and put it wherever
You can think of it like that, it will replace a hue hub, ikea, aqara, etc
But it’s called a coordinator in Zigbee2mqtt and zha
I have a Hue, a Smartthings, and a USB stick on my HA system. I think I'm covered for the coordinators..
At some point, yes.
I recently swapped my family PC for a think center mini very low power usage and have vmware running haos
Hue bulbs are zigbee
Smart things hub has both zigbee and zwave I think
Idk what you mean by usb stick tho
do not use virtualbox, the usb zigbee doesnt like power outage or restarts
You’ve got at a minimum two zigbee meshes
Which isn’t smart
No tech guy is gonna suggest virtualbox
hey I am learning as we go 🙂
I didnt know anything about smart homes home assistant 2-3 months ago
You talked about wanting a zigbee mesh above. To make a good mesh you pair everything to one coordinator and you plan out the zigbee channel for that coordinator
I.e. channel 25 zigbee and your 2.4ghz Wi-Fi access points would be on 1,6 and 11 would be closest to interfere with zigbee 25 so that would be farthest from the coordinator in a perfect world
Hope that all makes sense
It does. I need to do some wifi channel mapping and set the Zigbee channel after that.
This is the USB stick I have that's connected to HA - https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-HUSBZB-1-USB-Hub/dp/B01GJ826F8
That’s shit btw
I needed to get my landscape lights running quickly, that's why the Hue bridge exists.
Much better to get the sonoff p I mentioned above for zigbee. If you need a zwave one too get the zooz or aeotec 700 series.
The SmartThings hub is a remnant of the past, I just powered it on, the reasoning is that if HA goes down and I cannot get to it in time, there should be a backup/app that can still control stuff.
What makes the one I have not so good ?
That doesn’t make sense to me
The chipsets
Also due to usb port interference it’s highly recommended to put a zigbee and zwave usb stick on a usb extender, ideally a usb2.0 one or 3.x in a 2.0 port to minimize interference
Apparently the usb specs just let them suck and spit out a bunch of noise that fucks with radios
That is good to know, thank you for that !
Under what circumstances do you steer people away from Zigbee ?
I don’t. I still like my zwave stuff but I feel limited with what I can add and that I basically can’t use my mesh for fear of it breaking (like with chatty devices)
A lot of people move into a house with builder grade zwave stuff like switches all throughout so it’s easier for them to just buy a dongle and add existing devices
Zwave is suggested as a good protocol in part by sub ghz band so in theory better at going through walls and not part of 2.4ghz like Wi-Fi,zigbee,thread,matter but in reality they still have shit range and a good mesh needs repeaters pretty close together
What's your opinion about using the Hue as a coordinator so I can give the wife a pretty app to control stuff ? HA would read stuff off of Hue bridge and then do it's automations..
I don’t like the hue app or their hub
Their hub can’t handle more than 40-50 devices before it starts having multi second lag for turning things on off etc
Their app with 40+ devices started lagging on my phone as well
If you want a pretty app to control stuff make her a nice dashboard on home assistant app and set that as her default dashboard
You can remake the same scenes hue app has on your own
Although I find them mostly silly.. you just make a few color temp ones you like
Further, if she’s an iOS user I find HomeKit and the home app pretty nice looking for controlling devices including making scenes
More than one way to do it
And to add to that, you want your hue bulbs as repeaters for your zigbee mesh. If they’re paired to hue hub they aren’t part of your mesh you’re making with aqara ikea etc devices all from home assistant using zha or z2m drivers with a coordinator
Still adoptable btw
You make a compelling point. At some point, I want to get rid of the hubs and control everything with HA, but one, that needs time which I don't have much of right now, and two, I need to figure out a good way to make sure HA doesn't fail or go down. What are my options for high availability for HA ?
There isn’t any that I know of
I mean if you have a cluster on proxmox or something that can handle a node dying then hass will stay up but the usb dongle wouldn’t
You could use a PoE coordinator though
That’s still a single point of failure
@marsh lichen is there a way to have a backup zigbee coordinator?
Not running hass on a pi would be a good start tho
That's one kind of failure. The other kind is where I decide to upgrade HA to the latest version that breaks something and I find out something is broken right when I'm on a work call.
both z2m and zha have automated backups that can be restored to a new coordinator.
My HA runs on a fully dedicated system, a HP T620. I've been bitten by a dead SD Card, so I moved it to it's own hardware
Read patch notes and have backups lol
Lol, feels like I'm at work even when I'm off work.. 😆
live failover - not without a lot of effort. there are incrementing frame counters in the backups, so they need to be accounted for if doing any kind of automated failover
Is there a way to either have a dedicated backup or a cold spare flashed with the same nvm backup?
Not necessary
With z2m at least, you can just stop z2m, plug in the new coordinator (and change the path for the device passthrough if applicable), start it up, and it will migrate to the new coordinator
Not sure how ZHA handles that, but I assume it's similar
So, ZooZ is Z-Wave only, and OOS on Amazon, Inovelli has Blues that are Zigbee, but are currently back-ordered, they say they'll ship in Dec, but there's no guarantee of the delivery date. I'd love to get the blues for $50 a piece, but I cannot wait that long to get them.
That brings me back to the Enbrighten Zigbee switches and dimmers. Any opinions on the GE/Jasco/Enbrighten brand of switches ?
Zooz has their own website called thesmartesthouse
And their own web store on Amazon which I guess is out
The inovelli blue are the only zigbee switches I like and they’re new and currently have issues as seen on the forums and here
Fixable with an update eventually if not already out
You might want to ask in #zigbee-archived
That’s not high availability which was his goal
Automate mirroring the z2m config/backup on the other machine and use some trigger to determine the other machine isn't functioning properly and start up z2m on the secondary machine?
That would be cool
Tbh it's probably not worth the effort for something that happens very rarely (at least in my experience)
Yea but it’s fun to think about
Wow, not only does thesmartesthouse shows as having them in stock, they're also cheaper than the Amazon store. Thank you for directing me to their site !
Yep
But didn’t you want zigbee?
Choosing a mesh protocol and hardware shouldn’t be decided by what’s in stock
You’re-gonna-have-a-bad-time.jpg
Wipnose spit it out already lol
📜
I agree. I wasn't going to purchase them, just surprised at the facts. I'm still trying to figure out if GE/Jasco/Enbrighten Zigbee is my only option, and reading reviews for them.
Ge jasco etc we’re not suggested until recently
I still don’t like them based on high failure rates alone
Unless I’m misremembering
I have like 16 zooz light switches and like them very much fwiw
But I also planned out my zwave mesh properly and don’t have chatty devices on the mesh
But I also have all hue bulbs so the switches are in smart bulb mode and home assistant handles the light switch button presses so if hass is down shit don’t work. This isn’t an acceptable option for some folks
I had 16 of the GE/Jasco z-wave dimmers in my old house that worked for the most part, but they kept dropping off the network at random times, and that's not something that a switch that should act like a repeater should do. And in the 4 years I had them, one completely failed and I had to replace it.
Agreed
But you could easily have the same issue with zooz. The mesh dictates how stable the devices are
If I have at least 5 switches per floor, reasonably equally spaced out, at 1100 sqft per floor, there should be no reason a mesh isn't properly built or balanced. But that's my assumption based on how they work in theory.
I’ve seen 10 meters apart quotes before. Real world I don’t think there’s a number
Fair enough, but there's got to be some reasonable and widely accepted range for the switches that we use as a baseline to build upon, right ?
You would think
Lol
Reading logs after including seems to be the best way that I’ve seen
Alright. I'm going back to WiFi.
/s
Today my IR sensor is no longer working. Previous the serial-port-name '/dev/serial/by-id/usb-FTDI_FT230X_Basic_UART_D307PBVY-if00-port0' worked in the past but today no more. Could anyone give me hint where or how to find the serial port to which my current IR detector is connected to. (Yes, I've checked the connectors). The serial-port-name is needed as input into an Integration. Did already tried Setting-System-Hardware-and-the-three-dots to only note USB drivers, and could not destill more relevant data. Maybe I overlook something (as I'm not an ITexpert)? Did als insert usb: extra in the config. Rebooted several times. Alternatively tried to disconnect and connect the USB plug and to note a change in a log (but there are many logs in HA and which one should I specially look for (core?). Did with SSH als lsusb and got an answer for three USBs with the vendor codes, but that seems most likely the ID's for the USB port itself. Would appreciate if anyone could point me to the proper method for the current Operating System (i.e. 9.3 in Nov2022) for how to find the serial-port-name for the USB connected IR sensor. Thanks.
Anybody know of any methods to detect fire alarm sounds?
I'm in an apartment building where its not possible to have anything physically hooked into the smoke alarms but would love to have a method for HA to know when the fire alarm is going off. I'm thinking pretty much a mic that detects loud noises within a certain frequency range
Just want to know if its been done before or there's a product that does it. Thanks :)
Why not just get a smart smoke alarm and put it in a good location?
Or multiple.. you can take them with you when you move
I'm more interested in when the whole building alarm goes off than detecting actual smoke. It's a tiny studio apartment - the point at which my own smoke alarms are going off then I'm already on fire
I see. I’m not aware of a product like that so I’d look into diy with esphome
alright, thanks
I don't know if the standard smoke alarm sound in the US is the same in other countries, but there are smoke alarm listener devices (I've seen both Zigbee and zwave) that listen for the standard US smoke alarm tones @glossy wigeon
Whether you're in the US or not though, it'd be worth it for you to Google smoke alarm listener
Interesting
ooh perfect, thanks - not in the US but I'll see if I can find something similar here. The term listener was the bit I was missing - searching fire alarm sound detector was not getting anything :D
@cold moon , what was the Sonoff USB coordinator that you recommended ? I cannot find the link in today's messages
Hi all,
I'd like to setup some running led in one of my rooms controlled through HA... Any recommendations for the best LED strip that support running effect ?
Hi, I have few ZigBee buttons in home. Almost every button need to be click once before it works. They need to be wake up? I have one that don't need that. It's IKEA Styrbar button. It works always after first click.
Hi all
i sent you a message btw. discord hides them by default now i think lol
Message as in reply to my message, or a private one ? I saw your message on here, I was notified.
Yea a pm not a reply here
Damn. I was looking for where the PM section is, since you told me about the message. Where do I find my PMs ?
What client lol
Web
in the top left i see a discord icon and if i hover over it says direct messages
you could just create a thread...
https://www.getdroidtips.com/direct-messages-discord/ there's some config options in settings shown there. i guess they changed defaults with stuff quite a bit
Hey guys, not sure if this is the right section but I'm very new to HA and we're looking at making lights smart and I just want to make sure I've got the right info before getting lights organised
I've got a question about Shelly relays and wanted to get some info from people who have them hopefully
They're obviously WiFi based, but I was watching a video of someone setting theirs up and turning off the cloud part of the relay and connecting it to their ha without cloud, which is good
My question though is if you do that, since they're WiFi does that mean if the internet is down they can't be controlled by ha? Or will it still work as long as the router is up and running?
You're wanting something with dsp
It's been a moment since I've done any audio processing with HA, but detecting when sounds are above a certain frequency, holding a safe buffer above and below it for XYZ seconds, and also criteria of regular interval between them.
That's probably what I would attempt first if I was trying to implement this. Those Arduino ultrasonic sensors don't need to emit sound to receive and quantize it
I imagine if your LAN/internal WiFi isn't compromised, you'll have no lapse in functionally... Sans being able to remotely interact
Yeah, that's what I was thinking too, but I just wanted to make sure before going with it 😛
I use yeelite lights. I am weary about the phoning home, but I'm shortly about to cut the app out, and vlan/iptables them to only be controlled by HA, with ha being the only moving part not sequestered to my internal network
That sounds like a good idea
Openwrt && vlan settings == a good way to get the best of both worlds using HA and fun/novel devices that reverse tunnel to China for zero functional reason lol
I'm working on integrating this box of IoT webcam into zoneminder and the last one I was hacking on was literally just heartbeat timer to 3 different Chinese locations. Zero racial bias, I don't even understand the need for an American company to require that... A p2p encrypted AWS for cloud stuff, maybe, esp if they don't hold the keys.
So thankful for HA
That all sounds way above my level of knowledge at the moment 😛
If a tv is too old for hdmi cec is the next best option to use an ir blaster in front of tv to turn it on and off? If so, what specific hardware would you suggest?
Flipper zero 😂
I'd say testing if the device can auto turn on on power delivery and just cut the power for off, given its old its likely not a oled and doesnt care
Seems plausible
Probably a power hog
Arduino nano would do it. Just pushing some voltage through an ir led shouldn't draw much
Is that all ir is doing? I never thought of it like that lol
you'll have to figure out the frequency/sequence the ir led blinks at for whatever you want it to do - if I remember right each button on a remote has a different "code"
if you can't, then the next option is to get a ir reciever and read them
https://www.electrodragon.com/how-to-hack-into-the-tv-remote-control-and-understand-the-ir-code/
ah wow thats a handy database, I really should pick up a flipper at some point
I waited like 3 long years drooling over the production teasers lol
There's about 5 or 6 unique repos for the ir files, the sub gz recordings, etc
Way more than can even fit on the thing all at once
I watched David Bombals video on the flipper pretty cool
The tv is a Polaroid FLM-323B
It really should be sent to the big tv bin in the sky but I hate throwing away something that works
Seeing quite a few posts about Mitsubishi codes on "universal remote controls" being v useful
I think I still have my old galaxy S5, loved it bc of the ir blaster lots of brands use the same IP or hardware without investing anything on hardening it or making it unique
No google hardware or android for me
Crappy universal remotes have been seen at dollar stores too lol
I wonder if the rgb led on this would work US $4.90 29%OFF | Seeeduino XIAO RP2040 Raspberry Pi RP2040 Chip Development Board Module For Arduino/MicroPython/CircuitPython
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mri5VXQ
I have a pi pico I never played with
Oh here's a nice little pairing...~$7 after shipping and can integrate into HA pretty easily. Button to press, or wireless for that connectivity..
US $1.40 | IR Controller Shield V1.0.0 for LOLIN D1 mini Infrared sensors 4x 940nm emitter 1x 38kHz receiver
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mr2HZIk
US $2.01 21%OFF | ESP32 S2 Mini V1.0.0 - LOLIN WIFI IOT Board based ESP32-S2FN4R2 ESP32-S2 4MB FLASH 2MB PSRAM MicroPython Arduino Compatible
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqIzWgM
If you're so inclined could swap the smd led on any of these with an ir one
Iirc Pico's have LEDs on em
Thanks man I can do some googling with that
Anyone have any success with ZigBee door sensors and small gun safes?
No but your idea already sounds amazing.
whoever was looking at detecting fire alarm, if it's a building alarm, would it be easier to detect the flashing light with something on the alarm in your unit?
Anyone have a recommended European style Zigbee Thermostat from aliexpress? It should be compatible with Zigbee2mqtt and Home assistant.
I have found a couple but are very similar visually but different in the z2m wiki.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003952150617.html
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4001065031604.html
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003466804193.html
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005002431040917.html
is there any reason to use bluetooth low energy over zigbee?
Depends on what you're using it for
The BLE plant sensors for instance are really rather good
BLE bulbs...
looking at some led lights
Zigbee then
Unless you're going to be cutting power to them, in which case either buy Sengled Zigbee bulbs, or something non-Zigbee
any recommendation for a ceiling light?
I might use a smart switch along with the lights
so that I can still control them even if the HA server is down
Well, you're better off with a dumb bulb and a smart light switch/dimmer
Looking for advice about a device to buy? Remember to provide guidance on:
- Which country you're in
- What your budget is
- What protocols you prefer (eg Zigbee, WiFi, Z-Wave)
- Any features you want (such as power monitoring, dimming, etc)
then I will be looking for a led ceiling light that is over 1500 lm but also dimmable with a dimmer
do such thing exists for a low budget?
wait, then the color temperature won't be adjustable
Get two bulbs lmao
what about color temperature adjustment?
currently we have 2 of the 1500lm ceiling lights already, one broke thus looking for a smart conversion
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000905567059.html
(I am joking a little bit but if you are adventurous you could get two bulbs in high and low warmth and a dual gang dimmer)
I am looking to add my Xiaomi Dreame f9 to my HA, but it seems to be quite difficult, does anybody have experience with this model?
I am not looking for trouble 😅
Just want something that can do the thing I want
UK(anything 220 volts works I guess), under 80GBP or 90USD, zigbee
- power monitoring(optional, good to have)
- dimming
- adjustable color temperature
At last... you told us the country you're in
If you want a smart bulb you can't cut the power to it, if you're happy with a dumb bulb you can dim with a smart dimmer you can
is it possible to turn on/off a smart bulb in case the server went down?
Not without some app/other magic (like Zigbee bindings)
and I am not looking for bulb exclusively, lights such as these are ok(actually I prefer these) https://saucenao.com/userdata/tmp/3UrcI9QPe.png
I don't know what the terms for this type of light is
Ah, a fixed unit you have to throw away when any part of it fails...
those are most likely going to be brighter, is this correct?
Maybe
I have a couple of old 1400 lumen LED bulbs, they can't be dimmed, but they're about 8 to 10 years old
Buying a couple (or three) dimmable 500 lumen bulbs should be trivial
then color temperature can't be adjusted.
maybe:
- use a switch/button/knob that triggers home assistant only
- home assistant turns on/off/dim a smart light
- when server is not available, use a hidden hard wired switch
does this sounds like a good plan?
If that works for you, sure
do you see any flaws if I go with that plan?
Of course, if those are Zigbee cutting the power screws over the mesh, and your end devices may stop working
well, if I am cutting the power to the smart light, then the HA is not available anyways
Zigbee2MQTT FTW 😛
hard wire switch is only for when HA is not available
I would want ZHA if possible, since it is native to home assistant
do you know any smart light that
- uses zigbee
- has ZHA support(I don't mind adding support on my own, if that is possible)
- is dimmable
- can adjustable color temperature
Tradfri
light bulb?
Yes
I have a few of their older bulbs - cheap and work well
any dimmer input that can be hard wired?
Agreed. I have an assortment of tradfri and phillips hue, and the only ones that have issues like blinking at low dim values are the hue bulbs.
Ikea one are stable
You can't hard wire dimmer inputs for smart bulbs
Smart bulbs need the normal power input 100% of the time, or you kill the electronics
I mean, a dimmer input to home assistant so HA dims the light
If you connect a dimmer to a smart bulb expect a dead bulb
Sure, that's called automations
Buy your chosen "dimmer" remote
I would prefer it gets power from mains, so I don't have to replace the battery
should I look at this page? https://zigbee.blakadder.com/remotes.html
You'll probably only have to change that every couple of years
And something like https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/AU-A1ZBR1GW.html is going to look like an actual dimmer
don't need it to look like an actual dimmer but I would prefer a wall electrical box mounted one
Then you can do that - though you may need a dummy load (and the associated cost with powering it)
For some reason, I don't see many "remote" that has all
- on/off
- color temperature
- dimming
Available, does that not exist or? I see one but I don't see anywhere selling it (ADEO HR-C99C-Z-C045)
Any remote that has 4 or more buttons could do that
Push for on/off
Hold buttons a/b for warm/cool
Hold buttons c/d for bright/dim
So I can just do it in home assistant instead of looking for one that has the specific button?
If you're wanting a "smart" dimmer to control a smart bulb it's either that or something like Tasmota
You may find a #zigbee-archived device that can directly control another Zigbee light, but they're likely to be rare
Hey guys. I just put up a video on YouTube showing of my 43' wall mounted touchscreen setup with HA. Just starting out making videos, but hoping it will give everyone some ideas! https://youtu.be/yy_GBQ5dhKw
Anyone have a reccomendation?
Nice dude I’ll take a look later
hey anyone own a switchbot bot? I am curious if the button presses can be toggles instead of just momentary
Don't have one, but https://community.home-assistant.io/t/switch-bot/173430/3 indicates the "press" mode lets you choose a time period of 0-60 seconds to press and hold
hi There!
I am wondering if it is possible to log raw vibration, m/s2, with some of the vibration sensors. We are going to have construction right outside our window, but by law they have to stay below 5m/s2 and I would like to keep taps on that 🙂
Do you have any cameras? You may be able to use the mic on those (if they have them). And use ffmpeg sensor maybe
https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/zooz-kidde-diy-smart-smoke-alarm-kit not cheap solution^
no it doesnt
it takes existing wiring and tags on to it
modifying the alarm would be retarded
this was suggested the other day
"smoke alarm listeners"
ios devices can detect audible alarm signals but majestic apple decided to not allow to automate on that except the device itself with accesibility functions for now. what a waste
you could tie that into an automation/script passed through to homekit and then on the phone create an automation that when the alarm sound on ios trigger is done, trigger the script/automation given via homekit
but it's a hacky shit solution
didnt know the idevices did that
https://support.apple.com/guide/iphone/sound-recognition-iphf2dc33312/ios
this just repeats custom alarms on the device itself.
how do you automate on that?
wouldnt you be able to use shortcuts to create a trigger or something for an automation inside home app?
not that I know of. please someone correct me on that
and then also tell me how to make it run on homepods 😄
not finding anything on goog
I have 3 physical light switches in my condo that I'd like to be able to control using home assistant for automation
They don't have neutral wires
Any suggestion on a devices that can kind of go overtop the light switch to toggle them?
switchbot
Ohh I think that's the one I've been seeing
Does it need a hub?
Yes, Shortcuts can listen for alarm sounds. But it's an exclusive or with listening for "Hey Siri"
It can listen for a smoke alarm or for hey siri, but not both
Ooh
Not ideal but since I got a couple HomePods hey siri doesn’t even trigger on my phone much
Even if HomePod mini is two rooms away
It's a per device setting, and only available on iPhone and iPad
Right I’m saying either or isn’t a killer on a phone due to HomePods existence
Even less of an issue for an always at home iPad imo
I got that, I'm just making sure you know it's not something a HomePod could do, and it's something you can do on an iPad as it's less likely you'll want that to respond to Hey Siri
Agreed
Depends on your preferred mesh
For zigbee their hue motion temp lux are the best
Low retrigger for motion, accurate, battery lasts years
I personally prefer to split the sensors up. The places which are ideal for motion sensors tend to be the colder spots in the rooms in my experience
No one buys the hue for the temp or lux it’s just nice to have
I think hvac would be different in every house as far as layout and dead air zones
HVAC is a nice theoretical, but not something I have 😉
Rip
Nah, I have nice ceramic heaters, and the next place will be an air or ground source heat pump and underfloor heating.
Fancy
My hvac heat is broken and too old to justify fixing. I’m in Texas tho and currently 80 degrees in November
Lutron dimmer/switch, zigbee, if you have a throw switch
Hey all, Can anyone recommend a good zigbee garage door open/close sensor? I currently use an old Smartthings multi contact thing that also has xyz accels but it goes through batteries like crazy. Something hardwired would be ideal.
I used a cheap little wireless window/door sensor and stuck it on my garage door. Works great.
What should I start looking into if I want to buy speakers to be receivers for Home Assistant / Music Assistant?
any one know of something like this with the microcontroller input that has AC screw terminals instead of plugs that is certified for NA usage? https://www.amazon.ca/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2
Its 2022 and its usable already 🙂
hey guys, i've not touched any hardware but was curious if anyone knows of some good accel that can work with home assistant? basically something that i can move in 3d space and have it's relative position sent through to HA? or is that not really a thing?
Cannot get 2 of my Sonoff Basics that are flashed with Tasmota visible in Home Assistant. I have 5 similar devices, 3 work just fine. The 2 I recently flashed with Tasmota 12.x simply will not be recognized. SetOption19 On simply does... nothing. The 2 devices work fine assessing them over their Ip address... Is the 12.x firmware no longer supporting HA ???
so19 1 has been deprecated for a long time
the recommendation is to switch to the tasmota integration (https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/tasmota/) and use so19 0
Thanks I had missed that! Always the last to know...🙃
If you want self-hosted, I can recommend LogitechMediaServer (squeezebox) - https://github.com/Logitech/slimserver - https://downloads.slimdevices.com/LogitechMediaServer_v8.3.0/ - client-server setup. Server can run on a nas, pi, etc. Clients can be pi's, software on your phone, desktop, etc. All opensource and free.
People who have wall mounted tablets to display a frontend dashboard ... do you use the tablets speakers? is it worth customizing the mount (mbmounts) to expose the speakers? Using a fireHD 10 11th gen
Thanks, I'll look into that.
it looks complex, but it's quite nice. I have a couple pi's with 7" touch screens and dac-hats plugged into bookshelf speakers for audio with it
can control like sonos system (though this redates sonos by 10-15 years)
I only have a Pi Zero W at the moment.
It's tough to get hardware that isn't manufactured in North America where I live.
i have twp pi-zero also as an audio end points
DAC hat on the pi-zero's, hold on
last time i looked into logitech media server people said it falls over when you try to cast the same thing to multiple speakers and isnt in sync. is this not the case?
I have one of these - https://shop.pimoroni.com/collections/pirate-audio (I use the line-out with screenm but you can use the dac-shim). Also have this - https://www.hifiberry.com/shop/boards/hifiberry-dac-zero/ on the other pi-zero.
Note that for the Raspberry PI zero, you need to solder a 40-pin male header to the board.
@cold moon need a few more options. I can link multiple endpoints to create a single "destination" and play and it computes out latency to try to sync
luth, I bought solderless headers that you "hammer" in
Oh dear, haha
hmoney, i run stereo speakers, when i run multi-room sync it seems to work fine, doesn't sound out of sync
soldering gpio pins on isnt a big deal
I've never soldered anything.
feel free to use the reply feature on me, i dont have an aversion to discord's built in features like a handful of people here do (they're the exception not the rule)
luth - https://www.adafruit.com/product/3413 - it was easy
I'll see if I can find that in Meixco
just watch a video on soldering the hammer things arent really an ideal solution but they do "work'
soldering is simple to learn and opens up new project opportunities
luth, you can try all this though without any hardware. You install the server on something, then if you run windows you can install this player as the target - https://apps.microsoft.com/store/detail/squeezelitex/9PBHMTNP9037?hl=nl-nl&gl=nl
Practicing with my only rPi sounds daunting
Hm, I found 40 pins but not 20. I suppose I can cut it in half though, yeah?
LMS Server broadcasts music to "Squeezeboxes", which can be hardware or software. You use a different client (or a web interface) to the LMS to control how the music is broadcast.
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-944320403-5pz-header-40-pines-macho-_JM
Think I can cut that in half and solder it onto the pi0w?
you get five in that bag, so yep 🙂
ok. One piece solved.
i do think you can do hdmi audio out, but i know that people have problems with it (i think the config is more complex)
Now to find a dac hat...
this is the software on the pi - https://www.picoreplayer.org/
There are hdmi extractors for like $10usd. Those are easy to find.
before tackling hardware, I would proof out the software install.
I found a Hifiberry dac hat for usd$50 😕
Kinda makes the HDMI option look a lot nicer.
yeah, that's going to be the full-size one, not the dac-zero
ouch
If it's not manufactured in North America, it's really hard to find / expensive.
are you in mexico city?
No, Queretaro. A few hours outside CDMX.
Take a mexican vacation and bring me some audio hardware? 🙂
Actually I'd like some networking hardware too. Ubiquiti doesn't resupply Mexico often.
i think I drove through Santiago de Queretaro. Drove from Baja (la paz ferry to mazatlan) to Cancun over 3 months. Was in San Miguel de Allende, and drove to DF
Then almost certainly you did.
I wouldn't recommend it now though. Guanajuato is pretty bad lately.
I loved guanajuato in 2015 (when i was there), it was a random stop that we stayed at for a week
nothing to do with home assistant, just pictures - https://2ontherun.com/2015/guanajuato-a-wonderful-discovery-for-us/ 🙂
I have not been to GTO in some years.
The state got very dangerous with the pandemic.
anyways, back to your dac, for the zero, there's a single chipset that you can use, so you may be able to find alternatives easily
Gangs are attacking the highways at night and towns like Celaya are very dangerous now.
but at $50 vs $10 USD the HDMI extract may make more sense
Yeah, it seems more efficient if it will work.
usb dac's are also an option
would that be better? I also do not yet have a speaker so I don't know what I'm connecting to.
I want a Symfonik (?) from Ikea but they do not sell them in Mexico.
so that's why I'm messing with this pi0w
get the software working first
maybe I have an old usb speaker somewhere. I should look.
looks like the hdmi stuff may be more solid, my searching on the picoreplayer forums looks like more recent issues are more "my case didn't let me plug the hdmi cable all the way in"
That's good to know.
I found a usb speaker/mic. I need to find a usb-micro to micro cable now 😅
This is what I found for HDMI extractor, $12usd: https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-1428771996-extractor-de-audio-51-hdmi-4k-1080p-60hz-zamus-_JM
I managed to set this all up when PI's were "reasonably" priced, so my pi3b+dac+touchscreen+smartipi case was ~$150 usd
and the zero setups were <$50usd. I think the hifiberry dac was <$20, and i got a hifiberry zero case for $5
No cable. 😦 USB to 3.5mm out though. I don't think that's helpful though.
see if you can can LMS talking to the squeezeliteX client and playing on your PC (if you ware running windows)
Try that instead of the pi0w first?
yeah, it's all software, no purchases requried
if that works, then you can add the pizero easily
I was hoping to use the new Music Assistant for Home Assistant. I guess if I run the client on my PC then I can still test that.
I guess i have no choice. I don't see micro to micro cables for sale 😅
I haven't played with music assistant yet, but HomeAssistant interfaces into LMS
I watched the "Lets get lloud" video yesterday and it looked nice
I have tradfri 5 button remotes controlling tracks and volume already, fighting with getting a playlist to load properly
vs just sending it urls to play
I also need to setup a NAS for media
Music Assistant is pretty cool. Use it with DLNA streaming to a wifi speaker from inside HA
Not my image or text, but how i found LMS - https://imgur.com/a/ZIkUyRv
I have to go now but I will try when I come back. Thanks for the help. 🙂
good luck
hey guys, I'm having some issues with my new energy plugs. Installed tasmota on them, added them to my energy dashboard, and now 2 of 4 plugs are showing me wrong stas. one of the plugs is showing -11 kWh which isn't normal. is there any help to reset this?
Sorry for being dense. What do I install on my PC to test reception from HA? "Server" doesn't seem right.
@keen flame HA talks to LogitechMediaServer (installed on pi, nas, etc). LogitechMediaServer sends audio to squeezebox clients (squeezebotliteX on windows, picoreplayer on pi)
What is the best os to run on my rpi4 to be able to run my ha dashboard on it? I'm now running an android version on my pi , but it's still not fast enough. So i'm searching for a solution to make it as fast as possible and also stable.
4 out of 5 of our TP-Link Kasa HS100/HS110s have just dropped off the face of the earth in the last day or two
They show in Unifi as connected, but I can't ping them...
Anyone else had that happen?
One of them is still talking. Can't even see them in the app right now (which oh so helpfully regularly loses its list of devices)
Raspberry Pi OS (formerly Raspbian) + HA Container would work, but HA is really meant to be run on a headless machine (i.e., one without a desktop environment)
isn't that the home assistant server? I already have home assistant up and running. Just need a way to control my light on this touchscreen like i can with my phone or tablet.
oh i see what you're asking
no clue then. i suppose Raspberry Pi OS is still the answer, but i haven't used touchscreens on a Pi
at the prices for PI's, you could sell the pi and buy an android tablet 🙂
trend on reddit seems to be buying fire-tablet-10's on discount, and putting kiosk-fullscreen on them. I find it makes more sense to add motion sensors then have to open a dashboard to turn off the lights, etc. Dashboard looks cooler, but motion sensors are way more efficient and functional.
For the two weeks that tablet gets updates, sure 😛
Sorry, back now. Trying to wrap my head around this stuff. I've got "Music Assistant" setup on HA. It looks cool, I want to play with it. I need to setup my Windows PC to be an audio target and if that works then I can apply that to the pi0w.
Just installed squeezeliteX. We'll see if that's supporte... oh, well look at you
so you could NOT install LMS, and instead install a squeezeliteX player on your machine, and install the slimproto integration
Okay. I've not installed LMS. I've installed SqueezeliteX on my PC, though it says "Can't connect ot LMS Telnet on port=9090". I've installed the slimproto integration.
slimproto needs to find squeezeliteX, not sure how to do that off hand
looks like it tries to emulate a LMS server
so point squeezeliteX to the HA instance now
SlimProto Player does?
try HA server port 9091
and/or port 9090
Squeezelite-X doesn't allow me to change the port, it seems. It's stuck on 9090.
bizarre app....
Well that's weird. I installed Music Assistant and now I can't find it.
I'll just reinstall it then.
When using Spotify or Youtube Music as a music source please note that only Premium accounts are supported, free accounts will not work. Oh well that's lousy.
Okay, I installed LMS on HA and was able to connect to it with Squeezelite-X. 🙂 Poco a poco.
How to get the PC running Squeezelite recognized by HA, though, as an entity, I have no idea.
go ahead and try adding the "logitech -> squeezebox" integration
i don't think that's what you want
I need to get the PC recognized as an entity. Installing LMS didn't do that, unfortunately.
I'll uninstall it and try the SlimProto again I guess
i was able to add port 9091 to squeezelite-x
I can't post photos here. Under Logitech Media Server > Host > ...
It has fields for User Name, Password, and then the port.
The port in mine is green, 9090, and has a checkbox next to it. I can't edit it.
then it's already connected to a host of some sort then
I hit apply and it says "Can't connect to LMS Telnet on port=9090"
So maybe SlimProto Player needs a username/password?
There's no documentation about it and no configuration options either.
does the "host" line in squeezelitex have anything?
Mind if I PM you so I can send images?
go ahead
Will the HA Sonos integration work even on older, discontinued Sonos devices (like the Play 1)?
Hello. I saw a deal on this mini PC and thought it could be used to load HA onto. What do you think?
It doesn’t look bad but if I think you can find better for around that price. Even an older gen i3 will probably be better than a celeron since it doesn’t do quicksync
Does Home Assistant take advantage of quicksync?
There is a $50 coupon on it. Does that change your thoughts? Or was that including the coupon?
Certain addons can benefit from a more powerful cpu / certain cpu features
Like frigate or nginx with multiple camera streams
Oh with that coupon that's pretty cool.
Yea for 50 off that’s not bad
Celeron is just a dirty word in my head and it’s ddr3 but still a shitload better than a pi
It comes with an ssd too
Yeah I got tired of trying to find pi kit.. so I thought mini PC would work
All in all not a bad buy I guess
I stopped recommending pi’s unless it’s just to reuse one you already have and have an ssd to boot from it (and pi4 only)
Curious... What did you start recommending in place of a pi?
I'm not married to this yet 😄
Thin client if trying to save money, used laptop if you have one or can get cheap, or nuc like what you’ve settled on
VM on a server works great too. I’m a fan of haos over managing it yourself with docker and especially the ability to use addons and restore/backup in haos
Used laptop is nice cuz it has a battery for power backup but a UPS is a good idea anyways (for network for example). Plus with used laptop it can have a broken screen and still be used
Do you install haos on the bare metal or run it in something like Proxmox?
I moved from a pi to a used laptop myself lol.. lady gave it to me cuz screen was broken and $200 for just the new screen
Bare metal
I already have a hypervisor and nas with unraid
I just wanted hass separate so if my server is down I still have internet and smart home
I know some of what you just said. But what is "nuc" and "haos"? I will Google that
Nuc is a tiny pc like what you linked above with an intel cpu
Haos is home assistant operating system which is what you probably have on a pi now
i just made a youtube video on this (my first video) a week or so ago if you want to check it out. it's basically just 43 min of me talking about different install methods and explaining some basics
lol
Yes sure!
it's linked in my about me if you just click my name here
have you not setup and played with home assistant at all yet?
you're in for a treat dude
Thanks. I will give it a look
Nope. Newbie over here
I just got Gigabyte internet. Looking at bringing online some smart switches and some contact servers
Contact sensors
yeah man you really can save yourself some frustration learning what you want to do then researching best things to buy that fit those goals
buying random shit then trying to integrate it technically works but it's not ideal
Haha. But that is my entire way of life! Jk. I'm still learning.
i've been making a trello board that i'm adding things to as i think of them to redo my home assistant automations and just generally add features that i think would be nice
Gotcha. Im also not sure I want to buy anything with Matter now making many smart devices easier to use. I still think HA will add to the possibility of automations that are possible. Just been hesitant to pull the trigger on my next move
nah
matter doesnt mean shit for us and the devices are still either non existent or just now coming out
Things will always be better in 3 years.
you prob watched some clickbait youtuber that said "MATTER IS GONNA CHANGE EVERYTHING ZOMG"
...I did... Lol
@empty wing I'll put this up for you as alternatives to your mini-pc (i see it for $125, no coupons) - https://www.servethehome.com/introducing-project-tinyminimicro-home-lab-revolution/ - ebay score is $120-$150 for i5-6500t units with 8gigs ram, 128 or 256 ssd's, 10 watts idle
I'm going to take my time reading through this, but it has to be overkill for HA, no?
depends on price, 10watts, made for business robustness....
Not doubting that. These were similar specs to my previous rig
i picked up a thinkcentre m900tiny unit, put another 8 gigs into for $20, have a 16gig i5-6500t running proxmox with HA, and moving some other utilities over another vm on it. You could run stuff natively on 8gigs easily, proxmox was just easier for me (I run proxmox for some work-related loads so quite familiar with it).
@jagged crypt do you have just the one nic on it? I'm having crashy problems with my usb-eth
just one nic, no wireless
someone reporting success with RTL8156 based adapter
~$30 USD on amazon
"pluggable" brand lists that chipset in the description.
lyricnz - https://bbs.archlinux.org/viewtopic.php?id=278526 - possibly still being fixed
can you install nic the other "nvme" slot?
If I can find another Nic?
Can you run ZHA and ZigBeeMQTT protocols at the same time? Or does this make all of your devices go crazy?
I want to buy some Samotech sensors which are proven to work in ZHA but ZigBeeMQTT doesn't seem to list them?
https://www.samotech.co.uk/products/temperature-humidity-zigbee-sensor/
You can run them both, with different Zigbee coordinators, on different channels
Alternatively take the more sensible approach and add support for them to Z2M
I have used their smoke alarm with Z2M before, it may actually work already, just not be listed explicitly yet
I've Googled this to death and cannot find the answer. I want to add a USB Drive to my NUC to use as Media Storage. I'm running HAOS and have the Terminal and SSH add-in installed. At the End of Day, SSD's are cheap, I could buy a bigger one and just do a new install, and restore the backup....but, I would like to get the USB drive to work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
did you see this similar question - https://community.home-assistant.io/t/ha-os-expand-storage/415804/8 - may not solve your problem any easier then a new install
I saw that, but I was a bit concerned that I would bin my system.
Hi, quick question from me (a noob :)): I just got my Slimmelezer+ and wanted to integrate it in Home Assistant
However, the entity I want to measure in my energy dashboard ("Power Consumed") is not available in the dropdown for measuring my net usage :/ Only "Energy Consumed Tariff 1" and "Energy Consumed Tariff 2"
Does anyone know how to add the entity "Power Consumed"? The other 2 entities (Tariff 1 and 2) seem a bit off
#energy-archived can help with the energy dashboard
cool, thanks 🙂
@jagged crypt I bought a TP-Link USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN Network Adapter (UE300) because my research hinted at realtek, but since then, other stuff says it might be the same chip as I'm having problems with.
I haven't opened it yet, but there's no conventional slot-plate on the back of the minipc for a pci-card (or whatever the modern equivalent is)
you have a pcie mini slot in the machine
how does that work with no backplane? I haven't fiddled with hardware except rpi in long time
i'm looking to add some rgb strips to my room, i'd need ~25ft or so, does anyone have any specific recommendations on amazon?
which tiny did you get m7?? m9?
the backplanes usually have parts switchable for different things, mine has serial attached to it,
something like this might be compatible but you might have to start the dremel to make it fit
https://preview.redd.it/rmv3s8qodwk61.jpg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ca9c6b1c01d1d2dae96bc551da93c86767de3506
I have HAOS installed in Proxmox, and I think I installed it prior to there being an official .qcow2 option. I remember converting the .ova, or something like that. Anyway, it runs great, but as I like to tinker I'd like to create the VM from scratch. Any idea if the qcow2 option works better/the same as creating a virtual machine and installing using the Generic x86-64 method?
a disk image is a disk image is a disk image?
yeah
Both are generic, you either install container on debian or use haos.
You cannot manually install homeassitant in homeassitantOS.
@jagged crypt M910q
just don't mix up m910 sff with tiny
technically the other m.2 slot is for wifi
which is a second network 🙂
you could also handle stuff with pfsense "on a stick" if you wanted to learn more networking
I can't see anything that looks like a PCI slot..... :/
Google says "Correct, M910q has one 2.5" drive bay and one M.2 80mm SSD slot. No, a device in 2.5" bay could only connect to SATA, there is no possibility to connect to the PCIe bus without the connector soldered in place (as on the M910x.)"
How would I tell? My hardware days were back in PentiumPro days.
PCI was the newfangled.
PCIe looks like a short version of conventional slots, not like that one...?
"Runs Doom great!"
looks like it would fit that card i linked you above
mini pcie
lenovos are picky on these slots what they accept, you might have to read up on what is compatible with the boards bios
I can't see the slot? Looking up my serial number on lenovo support, can see a "pci riser". Is there some silly proprietary connector that needs adapter? foo
Do you mean that brown ribbon-cably looking thing?
But PCIe cards have a conventional slot...? like https://store.hp.com/app/assets/images/uploads/prod/what-are-pcie-slots-pc1597871547581324.jpg
mini pcie
So that's like the gadget in https://cdn.mwave.com.au/images/400/AB66945.jpg ?
minipci is the same as nvme for basic understanding....
where the wireless card goes (is?)
I don't think mine has any wireless
in the pastboard.co link above, to the left of the ribbon cable bottom left
https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/thinkcentre_pdf/m910q_ug_hmm_en.pdf - page 6, #11 "m.2 wi-fi card slot"
bottom is where your nvme drive would go if you have that (though i think you said you got sata)
I opened it up again. It's much clearer in person than the photo
https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkCentre-A-E-M-S-Series/M910q-Tiny-need-to-add-wifi-card-need-whitelisted-one/m-p/3952221 - you may not be able to jam anything but "approved" wifi cards in there
running vlans in may be the simple way to do this - https://docs.netgate.com/pfsense/en/latest/solutions/sg-1100/router-on-a-stick.html
I tried vlan last night, couldn't get it to work.
https://forum.proxmox.com/threads/build-drivers-for-ax88179_178a-to-solve-transmit-queue-timed-out.113621/#post-509865
But i'll review that page too
That page is for pfsense, when I think I need to solve at proxmox layer
yeah, just looked at your proxmox post
let me look, i thought you should be able to basically assign three(or two) interfaces to the pfsense device and do the tagging in proxmox, vs pfsense
in your example 4001 and 4002, did you define a "default" vlan of 4001?
you basically want 4001 untagged port 1&2, 4001&4002 port3 TAGGED, 4002 port4-8 untagged. (from your example). Then define two network interfaces in the proxmox virtual host VM , both attached to VMBR0, and add "tag=4001" to one of them, and "tag=4002" to the other.
(Yes, was expecting to expose a virtual LAN and WAN interface separately to pfsense)
depending on your switch config you may have been bridging a default vlan untagged from 1&2 to 4-8
yeah, that could explain why the DHCP from the dmz (port 1) was servicing requests on the lan (ports 4-8)
i know what it "needs to be", but I'm unsure of how the switch translates the language to config 🙂
I've got a similar switch on my desk now, with the Hp box there, and a keyboard/screen.
But no wired LAN in my office, so only using point-to-point to my laptop, with a 1-1 cable
I've got to go to a meeting now, back in an hour. THanks for your help!!
@jagged crypt I'm back. Didn't my screenshot of my switch config match what you described? (the two vlans). I probably didn't get the proxmox config right.
oh, didn't zoom in the switch config, let me look
I'm doing it again on a 5 port switch, with basically the same UI.
vlan 4001 = port 1 (untagged) + port 2 (tagged -> proxmox)
vlan 4002 = port 2 (tagged -> proxmox), port 3-4 (untagged)
vlan 1 (default) = port 5 (so I can still access switch UI)
Just need to "fix" proxmox from current static/untagged config to use vlan tagging
on proxmox, you want multiple vnics
yup, I only have cli until I fix it so it's accessible again. Editing /etc/network/interfaces file now to try and make it support vlan tagging (4001 first)
wait, proxmox host should be fine, you are altering the Vnics on the vm
what did you do to break GUI on Proxmox? (Did you turn on the fw?)
host(one step down from datacenter) -> firewall->options. If firewall is on, it will only allow GUI/ssh connections from local network (can potentially ssh tunnel to deal with that if you want)
gui not broken, ALL connectivity to box broken (including ping iirc). Probably mistake in bridge-vlan-aware config etc
you want the host to be in vlan4002, right?
proxmox? yes. I'm just turning off tagging, so I can ssh in again
@jagged crypt I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
i "think" that should work
you need the timebomb revert function (click "is this ok" in 30 seconds after a network change, or it reverts)
I don't have any gui, so doing it from console+keyboard.
Yeah
I must have broken something. Can't get any connection, even back to stock no-vlan. Will try and fix that first.
Thanks for your help!
changing the file requires a network reload
just in case here's a stock config:
auto lo
iface lo inet loopback
iface eno1 inet manual
auto vmbr0
iface vmbr0 inet static
address 192.168.0.100/24
gateway 192.168.0.1
bridge-ports eno1
bridge-stp off
bridge-fd 0
thinking about it, you should actually be able to give vmbr0 and vmbr0.4005 two different addresses to cover the 4005 tagged, and the untagged options 🙂
I can't get any traffic at all to/from the box. I can see vmbr0.4002 interfce, with the static IP.
Is the "4002" in the name just for text, or does it actually select the vlanid?
my switch is configured with port 2 for the proxmox
https://imgur.com/a/4qTxxa5
vmbr0.4002 should mean accept tagged with id 4002 traffic
so my understanding of your config, you should be seeing 4001 tags and 4002 tags in there. You need to parse the 4002 to get to the host side of the proxmox.
That's what it looks like to me. But everything dead right now. Can see both ports lit on switch. UGH
"tcpdump -enl" on proxmox
should display the traffic and you can see if it's tagged
I remove the old second interface from proxmox config, and reboot to see.
sec
on vmbr0?
on eno1
I'm not running vlans on home network, and work network I play with, I don't have any tagging, just virtual switches (I had extra ports)
Mine is called something long and stupid. But it's not seeing any traffic. Maybe my client is borked. It's not even getting arp etc anymore. I'm going to try and revert to simple, then make sure that works. Then move forward. Sec
if you aren't getting arps on the interface your switch isn't sending any traffic to it
I think maybe I'm misunderstanding switch UI a bit?
possibly, i was looking at the tplink docs, looks like you can configure it two different ways (just to make it easier).
but my reading of what you showed in screen shots was correct
put another machine in the same vlan, untagged and leave proxmox as tagged, and set static ips onthe second one and see if you can see arp, etc
I've gone back to complete untagged. No vlans. plugged into two ports, both of which are flashing, and showing packets on switch, but can't ping/ssh anything
(on the proxmox)
actually, not RX any packets from proxmox
firewall? routing? sec, will check config again
Oh 🤦
I had swapped cable to the second nic, to make sure my stupid device names were the right way around.
ha
OK this (non vlan) config is working:
auto lo
iface lo inet loopback
iface enp0s31f6 inet manual
auto vmbr0
iface vmbr0 inet static
address 192.168.30.200/24
gateway 192.168.30.201
bridge-ports enp0s31f6
bridge-stp off
bridge-fd 0
ok, copy that file to /root so you can avoid typing it again later 🙂
Changed it to
auto vmbr0.4002
iface vmbr0.4002 inet static
address 192.168.30.200/24
gateway 192.168.30.1
auto vmbr0
iface vmbr0 inet static
bridge-ports enp0s31f6
bridge-stp off
bridge-fd 0
bridge-vlan-aware yes
bridge-vids 2-4094
Restarting network, then will go turn it back on switch.
running tcpdump on the interface after you change to tagged should at least let you see if you are seeing tagged traffic
yes, I'm seeing 802.1Q packets (but no response to client)
vlan:4002
Is there additional firewall/config needed on proxmox?
let me look
@jagged crypt I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
yeah, this is pushing the vlans into a bridge each
so you should have to make a vmbr0v4001 also if this worked
I didn't bother with 4001 yet. Nope, seems to be same as before? I can see 802.1Q packets in enp0s31f6 for vlan 4002... But no response packets
so lets go back to the "easier" config if the results were the same
ok, I kept interfaces.panzer1 🙂
cool, so the switch is configured properly at this point then
and no arp entries on my mac for the proxmox (.200)
❯ arp -i en5 -a
? (192.168.30.73) at b4:b0:24:3a:ec:3a on en5 ifscope [ethernet]
? (192.168.30.200) at (incomplete) on en5 ifscope [ethernet]
? (239.255.255.250) at 1:0:5e:7f:ff:fa on en5 ifscope permanent [ethernet]
.73 is the switch
yeah, you don't have arp-responses coming out proxmox
also tried nuking my mac arp cache : sudo arp -a -d
https://imgur.com/GGKnFPm switch
yeah, your switch is doing the right thing, sending tagged 4002
and interfaces.panzer1 has vmbr0.4002?
and the interfaces file is per post at 3:24 above
yup. And ifconfig shows enp0s31f6, vmbr0 and vmbr0.4002
The latter showing 1 RX packet and 56 TX.
if you ping 192.168.30.1 from proxmox and run tcpdump in the background do you get arp requests at all?
well, you can put any host on there, it doesn't have to be 30.1
ie the 192.168.30.x host you are pinging from would be fine
the only host is my mac. this is airgapped.
what were you pinging 30.200 from?
my mac. .222
I've got a usb-eth connected to the switch to work on all this vlan stuff.
just ping 30.222 and see what happens
Sec, my replacement usb-eth device just arrived. WIll plug it in, see if it's the same chipset as the bad one
pinging, it says destination host unreachable
run "tcpdump &" and then do the ping, you want to see the traffic
we are trying to see if the outbound traffic on the proxmox is tagged
I'm seeing outbound ARP requests (who-has) with 802.1Q and vlan 4002
we saw inbound on the first tcpdump, and outbound on here
proxmox is connected to port 2
if proxmox is sending arp-requests on vlan4002, than outbound traffic is being tagged properly.
looks like it is, from tcpdump at least :/
Strange, eh? Switch rejecting it?
I can set up a monitor port I guess. But that's also my target host
well, you didn't see arp-responses when your mac was trying to talk to proxmox 30.200
outbound tcpdump https://imgur.com/Wtgxzgr
https://imgur.com/xbALFsl - was all arp requests for 192.168.30.200, correct?
I'm looking at this - https://pve.proxmox.com/pve-docs/chapter-sysadmin.html#_vlan_802_1q "search for "use vlan 5 for the proxmox ve management ip with vlan aware linux bridge"
ok
Otherwise my config looks identical
reboots fast now?
we can cheat and send no 802.1q tags into the the port from the switch
ie 4001 is tagged, 4002 is not
sorry was afk for a sec.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Proxmox/comments/r407nr/proxmox_on_trunk_port/ this points out doing it with the vlan type - https://pastebin.com/iQRPkG8y (also ovs example, that i have no experience is)
iface vmbr0 inet manual
bridge-ports enp0s31f6
bridge-stp off
bridge-fd 0
bridge-vlan-aware yes
bridge-vids 2-4094
auto vlan4002
iface vlan4002 inet static
address 192.168.30.200/24
gateway 192.168.30.1
vlan-raw-device vmbr0
How does the second iface know to use vlan?
vmbr0 is attached to enp0s31f6
vlan4002 is atttached to vmbr0
just going to reset my switch back to factory, then start again. For some reason was being silly.
Maybe the new NIC will be fine, not crash, and can forget all this vlan stuff 🙂
OK this is super frustrating :/
you may be hitting the point where walking away for 24 hours will be more valuable than banging your head against the wall some more
I've reset everything back to no-vlan old config. PS: is it normal to get duplicate pings when pinging a proxmox box? I've noticed this since day 1?
One with a ttl=64 one with 255. These are literally the only two hosts on this LAN
❯ ping 192.168.30.200
PING 192.168.30.200 (192.168.30.200): 56 data bytes
64 bytes from 192.168.30.200: icmp_seq=0 ttl=255 time=0.521 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.30.200: icmp_seq=0 ttl=64 time=0.653 ms (DUP!)
64 bytes from 192.168.30.200: icmp_seq=1 ttl=255 time=0.915 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.30.200: icmp_seq=1 ttl=64 time=0.931 ms (DUP!)
64 bytes from 192.168.30.200: icmp_seq=2 ttl=255 time=1.138 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.30.200: icmp_seq=2 ttl=64 time=1.156 ms (DUP!)
tcpdump on the target only shows 1 reply, with ttl=64