#diy-archived
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because for the SmartIR, this json file is on the HA, and the integration just reads from that file and sends the command directly to GPIO14 to the ESP device, son on the ESP there is only 1 line of code that in theory sends an input command through GPIO14
This is a base64 format. I guess you can use this to convert into raw format https://github.com/elupus/irgen#raw Then in ESP, use the remote transmitter to transmit via your GPIO14 pin https://www.esphome.io/components/remote_transmitter.html#remote-transmitter-transmit-raw-action
If it's always on certain days with exceptions for holidays, there's a custom component that handles that well. Much easier than scraping a web site
Is there anything that would prevent me from putting a z-wave dimmer or switch module inside the actual light fixture itself or something, rather than behind the light switch as all the installation guides suggest?
You can put it anywhere you want. Location has pro and cons. In your case, the cons would be that you will still news that Noone touches your dumb switch, or the light fixture would love power. Otherwise you would need either to bypass the switch, and add a smart switch, which controls the switch module, or just block access to the switch. In that case I would say it makes more sense to have smart bulbs, so you could have access to rgb colors.
I mean connecting the dumb switch and wiring it in the same way the diagrams say to, just doing that at the fixture or whatever instead of in the switch backbox to avoid the limited space and get access to neutral wires
You can expect all you want. Not going to help. Try actually following what it says to do and checking the documentation. You cant miss it. It's bright red at the top of the page.
Must've been added recently. I checked that page a few months ago when the issue first popped up
Anybody here can help me set up the panel controls for my MQTT light? I would also like some advise if I should change the MQTT topics I use, I want to write my code properly.
info:
control board: wemos D1 mini with custom code using pubsubclient for MQTT
mosquitto MQTT broker running
control MQTT topics: /wemos/led/red with data: 0-255 (same for all colours and fade speed)
status MQTT topics: /wemos/led/redstate with data 0-255
at the moment I can control the lights with static on/off values, but I don't know how to set 0-255 sliders for the colours (or is there a colour selector I could use?)
I am new to HA and this is the first device I am creating and setting up.
The colour_template here seems to only support HSV and I need RGB, also it still does not answer how I can add sliders or colour selector to the dashboard.
I'm thinking color template gives you the slider
And set_color can be used make buttons to pick the color
Maybe you can use node red to convert between hsv and rgb
Have I done a big miss in getting the ST7789 display that isnt the ST7789"v" version ? I cannot get it to work as it doesnt appear to have the SPI pins (mosi and clk)
Has anyone here taken on this:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
I've got a WiFi-controlled smart valve I was hoping would arrive with an ESP8266 embedded, but it has the BK7231T.
For my particular set of skills it would probably be easier to just swap it out for the ESP8266, but I would prefer to use the included controller but not sure exactly where to solder UART for flashing.
Anyone here use or know about the raspiaudio muse proto? I wanted to add an RFID reader, I was wondering if it could handle it or would use too much of the esp32 resources?
Compute resources or simply powering the RFID board? I would think either would be fine, the RFID board isn't going to draw much of either.
yeah, thanks. I am ordering one and I will try to see if I can get it to work with rc522, if not I'll use it the precompiled way.
Can someone quickly explain the mmWave stuff? Is it so accurate that it can detect even the tiniest of motion like breathing which is why it's useful for presence tracking?
I saw that the graphs indicate they get less accurate on the edges of the FOV and at distance so I guess that's how they work
I also saw a Texas Instruments video showcasing how they can be used to calculate where exactly the movement is. This must be some sort of a triangulation thing, and I wonder if these are available just yet for DIYers?
looking to possibly switch from a pi4 to a mini pc (x86) for home assistant. Can anyone link me to recommendations? Have read a few articles online, just curious to see what others are actually using
The Aqara FP1 is an absolute game changer for your Smart Home, in my opinion. It is a sensor specifically designed for room presence detection and solves a problem for us all which we have had for a long time: accurate and reliable room presence without having to carry any extra devices with you at all times. In this video, I show you some of it...
After taking a look at the Aqara FP1 Sensor a few weeks back, noticing it's lack of availability and price tag, I decided tried to build my own presence detection sensor with a much tighter budget. Both of these are mmWave sensors used for Human Presence Detection in rooms where there is no motion and can detect the smallest amount of movement. ...
Short version of the story is that yes, they are super accurate with the right software and even the DIY version is expensive (~$50) at the moment.
Cool, might have to try this stuff out
If a voltage converter outputs 0volts is that effectively "off", or would an actual on/off switch be better?
I was thinking that I might be able to pull off just setting the potentiometer to 0v, this is for a desk fan
Any specific reason to shift? I run kubernetes cluster with several containers and rpi4 is just fine. Running 24x7 does not hurt in power segment as it hardly takes more than 7w even at peak
@sand leaf I havent watched the video yet but maybe it will be right for you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAxe2pAUY50
This $50 thin client from 2015 beats the $200 router that we built in the last video... by a big margin.
Fujitsu S920 paired with a PCIe NIC is a great cheap machine for OpenWRT, OPNSense, IPFire or VyOS!
STH's TinyMiniMicro Project https://www.servethehome.com/introducing-project-tinyminimicro-home-lab-revolution/
Follow me:
Mastodon https:...
It's very cheap, maybe you have to upgrade the ram but i think it will do
I need my pi 4 for another project. And want to shift to a ssd
Thanks Iโll take a look
Well if that project is in a container than test it out on rpi forst. Ssd on pi does not give great speed if you are expecting that
Anybody know why my temperature sensor outside would spike every morning at the same time?
It happens roughly at 8:30 daily
They're ESPHome based
With shct3 temperature sensors
Where is the sensor, does it have anything near it like a boiler or anything that might be coming on first thing in the morning?
Perhaps it catches first sunlight at that time?
Nope it's outside on a covered patio
So I don't think it's sunlight either
Could still maybe be from the light if maybe that area gets super bright or warm from the sun or something first thing in the morning
Hmm I'll experiment with putting something in front of it
hi have a look on ebay etc for refurbished/used Lenovo M series tiny PCs, Dell Optiplex Micro PCs, HP elitedesk PCs.. look for something with a relatively new CPU (i3-6XXXT) and you should be ok.. the one suggested in Wolfgang's channel is a thin client rather than an actual mini PC.. which to me isn't really worth switching over an RPi
is there a way to swap sensors or add another one at the same location to check if it's that particular sensor's fault?
Yeah I can swap it with a different one
I have 3 identical sensors
that's what I would do.. maybe put another one side by side in the same location.. would be interesting to know what the problem is though (if it isn't a sensor issue) ๐
Can I ask an ESPHome question here or is there a better place?
ESPHome has their own Discord as well but people here use it too
Maybe UFO passes through that time , this definitely explains the exhaust plumes of a donnager class stardrive ๐ seriously, check if the esp is restarted during that time and it is just a initial temp setting
I have some pi0w's and some ESP32's i want to use for some sensors. I'm assuming ESPHome is the way to go for the ESP's. What's recommended for a raspberry pi? MQTT? It's going to be mostly environmental sensors like temp, voc, pressure, humidity, P2.5. I want the data displayed as graphs under indoor and outdoor.
Does anyone happen to know of any project to get custom firmware on the Amazon Smartscales (dash smart shelfโs) and hook them up to home assistant?
I have a few sitting around I donโt have a use for anymore, and would love to do something likeโฆ put it under my automatic cat food or water to get an alert (or something else) when either are low.
I tried searching around and the only weight anything I found for home automation was someone monitoring 3D printing spools.
python the takes the data and publishes it to mqtt
Simple networking question
Iโm building a house, and everyone always recommends running extra cat6 everywhere. I agree, especially since I will have a lot of aeotec multisensors Iโd like to feed power to over poe (with poe to 5v adapter naturally), but most of these will be in the ceiling/ high walls. What Iโm wondering is, when people recommend running cat6 everywhere, where does it end up in the room? Do you get a cat6 connection somewhere in the wall ceiling? Are the cables just available behind the wall/ceiling for when you need them one day, and then you make a hole to get connected?
Then how do you decide where in the room to place it?
So, I had an idea, and hopefully this is a good place to brainstorm
I'm setting up a projector with a widescreen ... screen (2.35 aspect ratio)
The projector can adjust the lens, so when watching 16x9 content, it fills the height of the screen, but has black bars on the left and right.
When watching movie content (2.35 etc), it zooms out and adjusts the image such that the black bars are off the screen above and below, and the image fills the entire screen
This is a manual step when streaming content on something like an Nvidia shield
I want to do it automatically, so here's what I'm thinking:
- Periodically screengrab the android device using ADB over the network
- Scan that image to figure out where the completely black areas are and output an estimated aspect ratio
- Take that stream of aspect ratios, and somehow toss outliers, creating a stable value
- When that value changes for x seconds, adjust the projector to match (This is already taken care of via an integration).
Any ideas for any of that?
I built a pir sensor from a d1 mini clone and a hc501, its mostly stuck on reporting detected. Ive swapped the jumpers around, checked connections, played with the sensitivity and time out, cant seem to figure it out
Tried a diff usb brick and cable
I made another that seems to be working better but records lots of false positives
Hey all, is there a generally accepted preferred Airconditioner/Heat pump brand that integrates with Home Assistant? I see that Daikin deprecated there integration ๐ฆ
You could also use an app like Tasker or something to take the screenshot, but if ADB is easier than that might be simpler to get the screenshot onto another device. I don't know the specifics about how to get the aspect ratio, but the two things that come to mind are to use OpenCV with Python to detect the aspect ratio of the content, or possibly ffmpeg/ffprobe to get the aspect ratio.
- Feed image to python script
- Process
- Send API command to Home Assistant to fire integration to adjust projector
If you use a player like Kodi you can probably easily get the aspect ratio of the video @heady cairn. I have automations based on he content length, type etc and it's pretty great
what you're thinking will probably work fine but I would first look for simpler and more bulletproof alternatives
I was hoping to use the metadata from Plex and Jellyfin, but it reports the file aspect ratio, not the aspect ratio of the inner image.
Oh right that wouldn't work for a lot of content unfortunately
What's the jumper set to, L or H?
Are you giving it 3.3V or 5V? (needs 5V)
Did you play around with the sensitivity and/or Time delay pots?
Tried both H and L jumper. Its getting 5v from the wemo output. Tried with the pots
Some reports on the internet say these components have issues because of noise / interference but this is beyond usable so i dont understand
Hey, I have a Daikin and use their One PLUS thermostat which is terrible but it is integrated with Home Assistant. Recently another user on here pointed me towards their azai6wspdkc (the last character can be A B or C, but you want C) it has WiFi control and a local API.
Next step is to try a different ESP with the same PIR, and the a different PIR with the same ESP...I got a batch of 12 Wemos D1 Mini clones recently and I've come across one dead one so far.
I actually wonder if it's the connection to the board that's bad and I need an ESP8266 for a transplant anyway, so I'm going to try using the "dead" one.
Still looking for someone who's done this OpenBK7231T flash.
Thanks @ancient wedge. Not sure its available in my region (Oceania) but looks pretty good, its either Daikin or Mitsubishi at this stage. Looking to buy some new units and somehow retrofit the old fujitsu
I use a sensibo
Sensibo is definitely cool ! But they don't have 2 way communication right?
Yeah i guess all there is to do is more trouble shooting. Problem is, I made 3 of these and each one has an issue
1 constantly detected, one continuously detected/clear, 1 most accurate but about 3 false positives an hour which is just useless
Some comments on msg boards talk about soldering a ceramic resistor b/c its probably noise
Oddly enough, I just put together an ESP32 and PIR sensor today as well...using ESPresense though
Hmm i didnt even realize the d1 has bluetooth
The D1 is an ESP8266, I was simply referencing the PIR project I also took on today, but mine was on an ESP32 which has BT.
So no, the D1 does not have BT.
Oh ok
Hi im looking for someone to help me with a add-on for my central heating Company they have an API for looking up your consumption, I need thes translated in to an hack integration
Someone willing to help me? I have no experience with programming
There's an ESP32 version of the D1 mini though
You can share a bit more as the question is too high level ...not guaranteeing I can help but ...
Basically it is this API but it is only provided in danish
https://aalborgforsyning.dk/erhverv/energioptimering/datadeling-for-fjernaflaeste-varmemalere/api-for-adgang-til-malerdata/
That is fine but... I see the eksempel with two blocks. What do you want to achieve? Read all or just a part of them?
What you will be trying to achieve is using the RESTful integration of HA, which requires a url to the api kicking back a json value (along the format on the page). In the restful integration you can then define if you need sensors and with what attrbutes
if you already have the json for your needs then you could share this here (obfuscating any private details as ID/name/etc) and then we'll take it from there
If you don't mind controlling via IR, the esphome works great and seamlessly integrates with HA. Building a esp based remote is cheap. Been using for all my aircons from long time https://www.esphome.io/components/climate/climate_ir.html
They only depreciated local control of the BRP069C4x wifi adapters. You can still purchase models with A or B designated adaptors that work fine. And you can fit the BRP072A42 adaptor to newer machines that specify the BRP069C4x. Many people have.
Thanks for the informative replies @rugged harness and @surreal sparrow I appreciate it. Looking to get as close to plug and play with my new systems as possible! Will probably have to go the esphome route for my existing fujitsu! I didn't know about the reciever option - that's great.
Plugging a BRP072A42 adaptor in instead of a BRP069C4x is not only way easier (especially if you get the installer to do it) but it reports the actual state of the device rather than relying on hopefully intercepting IR signals. The adaptors plug right in. They are not expensive.
I am biased though, I hate stateless IR control. I have eliminated it from my house.
I totally understand the hate for stateless - I want to avoid it as much as possible.
Are you using Daikin?
Yes
I definitely will be getting the installer to add the module - it'll be a mate of mine.
I think you've won me over for the new systems I'll have to check out the BRP072A42 availability in Australia.
$171 AUD - Certainly not as cheap as ESPHome, but much cheaper than the $350 odd the fujitsu adaptor is and I dont think that supports a local API
What model are you considering? Most of the Aus models are still supported. It's only the Euro ones that aren't.
I literally am looking at a blank canvas, just want the best integration with Home Assistant. From your advice I've been led to Daikin Cora - but if you have any specific models I'm all ears. Will be three separate outdoor/indoor units
Exactly, I wish I could say 170+ as cheap ๐ I use this IR( ir led + esp + adapter) and it costs less than 5 . Since I always operate on this and almost situated next to aircon. using various ikea buttons or even voice to control hence State is not a problem
I just had a 6kW Daikin Zena installed. The adaptor that it comes with supports local control. They're more expensive than the Cora but quieter, which is what I wanted for my cinema.
The Cora supports the BRP072C42 which has local control.
Damn $5 is good. I only have one problem with the stateless control, family and friends! Having said that if I got the automation just right so they never touched the controls....
Just use 1 automation setting which reset a setting. Then you are back to square one and everything is fine.
Where do you have that IR USB sitting so it has LOS to the AC?
Is there much of a muchness between say BRP072C42 and BRP072A42 from a HA perspective?
You can actually spend 10 and use esp32. The ble control will also allow any ble based buttons as well. You don't even need WiFi then
Nope. Both have the same functions. Everything but swing control (leave it on auto).
The range is almost 15 feet for me. Hence ther eis always a switch either near or just beneath
And my zigbee ir device is already ready just that ther are no compact zigbee sticks with pin outs
Can I just say this is my first real interaction with the HA community and it has been a great experience, thanks both.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=cc1352R&t=fpas&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fdocs.zephyrproject.org%2Flatest%2F_images%2Fcc1352r_sensortag.jpg is quite huge for my liking but a works on AAA battery
I am trying to make it work on Nordic dongle with button cell strapped in
Thanks for your help @surreal sparrow almost certainly going to go with the Daikin either Cora or Zena, maybe Cora for the office and Zena for the bedroom. Do you keep your Wifi adaptors restricted from the internet to prevent future bricking of local control or no concerns there?
Yes, local network only. Auto updates disabled.
so @rugged harness , how long did it take you to put together.
The esp-01 in 10 mins. Esp32 about 20 I would say. Let me me know if you need the yaml for the esp
and is working for ages now I guess
Do you have it on Github per chance? wouldn't mind a peek.
You can try the IR. For the price it's no biggie if you find it lacking and update to the Daikin controller later. Though the Zena comes with the adaptor included I think.
I'll definitely be trying IR for the pre-existing Fujitsu I've got
Nope, but it is so common that it there everywhere. It just literally 2 lines that you could fine in esphome link I gave
But I figure if I'm buying a new one for other parts of the house I might as well try and make it as easy as possible, not to mention "voting with my wallet" so to speak
as vendors certainly dont have to allow local APIs, I'll check if the Zena includes the adaptor, makes the price difference more favourable.
Yep Zena has wireless as standard - wish the prices weren't so obfuscated
So the BRP072C42 is priced at $185 odd and the price difference between the Cora and Zena appears to be about $250 so good value for sure.
I was wondering why you were asking about how much time. Then it hit me that you might be thinking you need to solder all that caps and resistors. No, it is a plug in adapter https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-ESP8266-Adapter-Compatible-Arduino/dp/B09K3XDS1T/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=esp-01+adapter&qid=1655988121&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRjdENlBYSkdDN1ZKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzMyNzQwMTA4VUlWSzhBN0YxMiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODY1MjAyMURBV0lBR0VDMUIzUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl for esp01. Only ir led you need to solder. But if going for eap32, ypu don't even have to do that as esp32 are generally devkit with microusb
Mate you are spot on! Thats exactly what I thought
And you nudge you further to try this. You can pair it with a temp and humidity sensor that you can keep it anyway. This will work with esp 32 as it is ble https://esphome.io/components/sensor/xiaomi_ble.html#lywsd03mmc
The best part is that this temp humidity sensor (~ $6) connected to that esp32 hosting ir led can be kept at that corner where you want specific temp control ๐
and write esphome automation to regulate. So that even if your wifi goes down, it is still working
Thanks for all your knowledge Iโll be using it going forward - might look into zigbee like you mentioned earlier
I tried to connect 3 different ESP32 :
- ESP-WROOM-32 https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?orderId=8150225570347507&productId=1005001621844145&edm_click_module=order_detail&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=buyerSendGoodsRemindToBuyervV2_1_fr_FR_2022-06-05&rowan_msg_id=7507815022557033$ee97bf1ac2e042ecba2bd867f28785a1&ck=in_edm_other
- ESP-C3-32S https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?orderId=8150629003117507&productId=1005004195699301&edm_click_module=order_detail&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=orderWaitingForBuyerToLeaveFeedbackV2_1_fr_FR_2022-06-10&rowan_msg_id=7507815062900310$bfb756e89faa4150ac8f550e5769d089&ck=in_edm_other
- ESP-WROOM-32 https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?orderId=8151175066417507&productId=4000535213799&edm_click_module=order_detail&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=postArriveV3_1_fr_FR_2022-06-23&rowan_msg_id=7507815117506640$ce66d9e1fbe549e8a29a304736ae1931&ck=in_edm_other
but none of the 3 works ; no hardware is detected (Plug into computer) it seems to be a problem of ID address ? or hardware ?
On the other side, I installed well 2 ESP8266 D1mini.
Anybody could help me ? Thanks
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So I now have a bunch of PC soundbars (govdeals)
I want to turn them into a speaker system for my garage
They've got 12V power inputs and 3.5mm audio inputs. I can deal with both of those easily
My question is, what should I use to control them?
I could just plug the speakers into an echo dot or something but that's a bit proprietary for my liking
you can use one off this
https://raspiaudio.com/produit/muse-proto
you can then install squeezelite on it
https://forum.raspiaudio.com/t/multirooms-with-squeezelite-with-esp32-muse-proto/291
This is a quick tutorial to burn Squeezelite on the ESPMUSE PROTO to do multiroom audio. Multiroom is great at home when you want to have the same music synchronized in you living room, kitchen, bathroom without the need of moving a bluetooth speaker and a phone with you, or worst having a very loud distorted music in one room hoping to hear in ...
Im thinkin of setting up automations for soundtrack on my phone
llike the way music is used in film to manipulate emotions
imagine haveing like 10 tracks for different emotions
with a trigger for each, and have them come on whenever you need inside conversation
would be totally badass
anyone made a hidden TV with a servo motor that FLIPS UP. I wanna mount a TV under a seat that flips up 90 degrees in a bay window seat......
I think im going to use a linear servo motor but Id like feedback so it doesnt over extend AND I dunno how to mount the TV horizontally so that it doesnt fall when its horizontal....
Only a small TV (32") so its not going to be too heavy
alternately - anyone got a recommendation for a 32" display (like a tablet)
has anyone here set up raspi with opensprinkler for use with home assistant? tackling that project today... ๐
I think you could build a frame using Unistrut and then bolt the TV to it using the VESA mounting holes. To do this project right, I think you're going to need some welding skills...It may be easier to have one that rises vertically out of a cabinet, you could build an elevator of sorts...But then I just did a quick search for "motorized tv mounts", maybe look there for inspiration?
Any non-adjustable VESA wall-mount should do just fine.
I would assume the servos need to be pretty beefy to hold up the weight of the TV while closing, so it doesn't just slam down.
There's also something like this that you could use to simplify the whole thing a bit:
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Electric-Motorized-Pitched-Ceiling/dp/B01GGR6I24
Then all you'd need to get motorized is the actual lid (or have the TV push the lid out the way :D)
MOUNT-E-FD55 from VIVO, heavy duty motorized flip down TV mount, is the perfect space saver that mounts to ceilings and other surfaces. The motor is controlled with an included IR remote which features programmable memory settings to save your favorite viewing angels. The convenient fold-up desig...
Unfortunately a rising situation isnt possible as the void that the TV needs to rise from is a structural concrete 6ft x 6ft beam
maximum depth is 100mm
too deep.
has anyone done anything with a servo/actuator using an ESP with positional data????
anyone have experience getting MIMOLite to pair with ZwaveJS and/or zwavejs2mqtt?
I am using a Nortek/Go Control adapter (Zigbee/ZWave+)
i can't get it to pair at all and i can't find a single useful thing online for help
I suggest asking in #zwave-archived , but I did have that working a while back with my Aeotec Zstick 5
I want to make a remote that when i press a button on an ESP8266 it would turn the light off, another to turn it on, holding either to do dimming and double tapping to change the scene. right now i have the buttons set up as GPIO binary sensors, but i don't know how to program it like this
Hi, i just came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOgy6QbfeZk and will like to try something similar, but would it be possible to power the micro from the power of the ct clamps itself? so it all gets self powered? (I have a split phase, so it will be 2 ct clamps)
Whole home power monitoring and additional circuits such as solar, electric dryer, electric stove, air conditioners, electric car charging, etc with ESPHome and Home Assistant. Other home automation software supporting MQTT can also use this integration.
โกParts Usedโก
Split Core Current Transformers 100A/50ma - https://geni.us/gaRgK
ESP32 NodeM...
pretty sure that that's not how it works
figured I'd try here first since it's a multi-purpose diy device. but hopping over to there. ty ๐๐ป
@peak gorge the ct clamps aren't drawing that much power
does something like this exist besides this one product? it's not available in my country but this is kind of the only solution i'm looking for that might work for what i want
This is not DIY, try #hardware-archived
woops
hello. can someone help me to connect second sensor to SonoffTH
i am getting some node-mcu v3 boards, going to make a knob turner for my water heater
is esphome the thing to use or are there other equally good/better options?
Wanting to put together an air quality sensor, looking at the PMS units, is there a preference between the 5003 and the 7003 and any pointers for finding an authentic unit?
Just saw that the Pi Pico W just came out, apparently ESPHome support is already in the works, Looks like it may be a good alternative to ESPHome devices? I've been planning to get some boards for a while, but so many different models/versions its confusing, at least with the Pi Pico W I know its going to be good quality and dont have to stuff around with finding a good version of an ESP board?
My understanding is that the Pico sits somewhere between the ESP8266 and ESP32? And the ESP8266 is more than enough for most ESPHome uses?
I don't know where to start and ask about this but I have a relay that is controlled with 433mhz RF. Is there a simple way to add wifi support or replace it with wifi? Using a nodemcu or something like that
No but i use a tasmota 8 ch relay with HA and Irrigation Unlimited integration for 2 years now in my garden works great .https://github.com/rgc99/irrigation_unlimited
Does anyone know what this button on the back of the shelly 1pm is for? There isn't anything in the manual about it.
Does it just toggle the relay manually?
no, I tried that
it looks like it is tied to the ext_rstb on the ESP8266EX based on some pictures I found
LED?
Yeah, probably just the reset...
Start pinging it and hit the button and see if you lose packets
Any chance you speak Arabic?
https://youtu.be/dz7Aq4mGnQc?t=173
ุทุฑู ุงุนุงุฏุฉ ุถุจุท ุงุนุฏุงุฏุงุช ุงูู
ุตูุน ูุงุฌูุฒุฉ ุดููู
Three ways to factory reset shelly devices
ูู ุจุนุถ ุงูุญุงูุงุช ูููู ู ู ุงูุตุนุจ ุงููุตูู ูุงุฌูุฒุฉ ุดููู ุจุนุฏ ุชุฑููุจูุง ุฎูู ู ูุงุชูุญ ุงูุงุถุงุกุฉ ูุนู ู ุงุนุงุฏุฉ ุถุจุท ุงูู ุตูุน
ุงุฌูุฒุฉ ุดููู ุงูุงู ู
ุชููุฑุฉ ุนูู ู
ููุน ุนูู ุงูุณุจุฑุณ
ุฑูุงุจุท ุดุฑุงุก ุงูุงุฌูุฒุฉ ุงูู
ุชููุฑู ุญุงููุง
Shelly UNI : https://s.clic...
Here you go @lilac shadow
do you have the link to that?
np
Says v1 on the pdf above, unsurprisingly since they likely had to submit it for approval.
Hi, I'd like to have a go at a diy setup. Something that would be useful is relay control ideally 2. What do I need for this sort of proof of concept? an adapter usb to serial? say this, (the blue one?) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32273550144.html
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
there is just so much kit! or maybe? or both? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001884283888.html
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
for the relay maybe this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32825211851.html
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
I need to use aliexpress as I am in NZ, there isnt any other sane choice.
Hello, i have a esphome node with a bme280. It worked perfectly fine for over a year. But now im getting the following message: (Message skipped because it was too big to fit in TCP buffer - This is only cosmetic)
Out of the 4 attributes only 1 sends it correctly, the altitude, temp, humidity and pressure dusplay that message
Does anyone know how to resolve this?
Hello everyone! ๐
I'm currently using HomeAssistant with MySensors. I've built a few sensors that are using RFM69W radios to communicate with the gateway via the MySensors protocol.
There are a few sensors I'd like to build that don't require being away from the gateway (a Raspberry Pi). Is there a way to connect a sensor directly to the gateway and talk to it via I2C or SPI?
For intance, I'd like to add a BME280 to have pressure displayed on HomeAssistant, or connect my alarm system with a bit of extra hardware (potentially an ATMEGA328P)
you can connect a bme280 to a pi directly
and use some python to take the data and report it over mqtt
then add an mqtt entity to HA
Nice idea ๐
I would use a cron job to have it update at the interval you want
I could push the data directly from a Python script actually
cron would be a good idea though
I was thinking cron could run the python every x minutes
@lilac shadow : I wired the BME280 directly on the Raspberry Pi, installed the mosquitto MQTT broker, wrote a script that reads the sensor and publishes the data to MQTT and configured HomeAssistant...
And IT WORKS! ๐
@dapper crown @lilac shadow You can also use a pi and use MQTT-IO to add sensors, PIR, and switches to it. It will publish to a broker to. I use this setup for my garage doors and reed sensors to show open status I added a PIR and BME280 sensors for environmental stats. Seem to be easier for me to manage than writing a Python script. https://github.com/flyte/mqtt-io
it is a simple yaml file for the connected devices and intervals are easy to set.
Inbuilt WiFi antenna on esp32 any good or will I want an external in order to get a halfway decent signal? Also is the going rate for them around 7-8 quid?
I'm UK btw
Guys hello, tell me please ,what antenna connector type have this board ? Ipex 1 or ipex4 ?
US $0.89 23%OFF | ESP32-C3 ESP-C3-13U ESP32 ESP C3 13U 2.4GHz Mini WiFi Bluetooth-compatible BLE 5.0 Development Board Dual-mode Wireless Module
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPwasd4
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
how far are you thinking - i think it should be ok within a small apartment? and 7-8 quid sounds about there.. depending on where you get it from.. you might be able to get it from banggood or aliexpress for cheaper when it's on sale?
Thanks. Across the garden - I've got a long range access point in the house and the little smart plug just gets a signal, Just a question of how good the esp32 antenna ks
Ordered stuff to try my ffc cable approach. Reckon I'll need to put the end of the cable in potting compound to avoid ice bridges?
So far I was always using an ESP8266, because for my small projects it was always enough. But now I have to use an analog input on the ESP8266 (Wemos D1 Mini).
Yesterday I found out that reading the analog input on a regular base and using the WIFI/mqtt results in broken wifi/mqtt connections.
I have found that this a known issue on the ESP8266. So I'm going to upgrade to an ESP32 board because the problem should not be there what I have read so far.
But I have some questions about uploading the code. I'm using PlatformIO and c++ on the ESP8266. On the Wemos D1 mini you don't have to press some buttons to come in the DFU mode.
On the Wemos S2 mini and Wemos C3 mini I see that you have to press buttons to enter the DFU mode.
Is this something specific of the ESP32 chips or the ESP32-S2/ESP32-C3 chip or something of the Wemos board?
When my board is in my casing it have to open it everytime to upload new code. At the end I want to have OTA update (and I assume that you don't have to press the buttons to come in DFU mode ๐ )
But i'm wondering why you have to press those buttons on the Wemos ESP versions and not on the Wemos D1 mini (ESP8266)?
Does the yaml templates support calling CLI commands? I've decoded some rf signals with rfcat and i want to create templates to trigger them to control things like my rf doorbell when my wifi doorbell is triggered.
it would basically be calling a python script with some arguments depending on what i want to trigger
oh nmi think i found it https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/python_script/
Sweet! ๐
ESP8266-based solar powered wifi irrigation valve: https://github.com/cybershoe/moist-controller
It was sitting half-finished for months, finally got it up and running and dampening plants.
nice dude
Thanks, it's been mostly done since last fall, but I hadn't gotten around to actually finalizing it until this weekend.
I didn't really appreciate how much standby power a lot of components take until I needed to figure out how to make it last 24 hours without a lot of guaranteed sunshine each day.
sounds like a good learning experience then ๐
Indeed. I got bit by the low-power bug, now I have another project percolating to make a MQTT-connected live-catch mousetrap that will let me know when catch a mouse.
That one uses the ULP on the ESP32 and sips something like 10ยตA.
I've validated all of the individual components for that one, I just need to set aside some time to integrate it and write some code.
But based on my math it should last a few months between charges on a 500mA LiPo
haha
are you able to use esphome with that or just making your own sketch?
ya i've never played with the low power core but seen some cool projects on youtube using it
That's MQTT with esp-idf
googles
The ULP wakes up every 100ms or so and pulses an IR LED and looks for the voltage spike on the photodiode
If it doesn't see the spike then it's blocked by a mouse, so it wakes up the main processor, connects to WiFi, publishes a MQTT message and then goes back to sleep.
does it need to wake up that often?
I don't know how fast a mouse can move, so I figured 10Hz was enough to make sure I detected it coming through the gate.
(This is a live-catch trap)
ah
But this is the ULP that wakes up, not the main processor.
So it's minimal current draw.
If it were a kill trap, I'd only need to know about it before it started to smell.
hah
But a live-catch trap is only live-catch if you can relocate and release before the mouse dehydrates.
So that's the use case.
my cat says that's a waste of a good mouse
If they actually ate them I woudn't mind.
But they just leave them in our bed.
Not on.
mine does.. but scares me some day he'll eat one that got poisoned
in.
ya mine will bring me the half he doesnt want
Yeah, and we are lucky enough to live next to a biome edge that's just within the legal trap and release radius for wildlife, so we can actually let them go somewhere where they have a fighting chance.
yeah nothing wrong with that
Right now I have an always-on version that's PoE powered that I threw together in a few hours one night, but it's limited by being close to a network port.
It does the job, but I want something that's small enough and has long enough battery life that I can just charge it up, toss it in the pantry or attic or wherever we think they are, and not have to worry about forgetting to check it every 12 hours.
The irrigation valve gave me enough experience designing custom boards that I think it should be very achievable.
I did a prototype 3d-printed enclosure with a firebeetle board and a few pieces of brass tubing for the LED/photodiode stalks that attaches to the lid of a tin cat trap
And I know all of the electronics work
It's just a matter of finishing the integration
But I have a day job and it's been on my To-Don't list for a while too.
I looked into pcb design and itโs interesting but not for me
Digital logic wasnโt my favorite class lol
I don't do it often, but I enjoy obsessively optimizing a design every once in a while.
If you do low power it's likely you have seen this but I'll link it anyways. https://www.thingsquare.com/blog/articles/sensortag-power/
Yep, thatโs the method Iโm going to use for my soil moisture monitors
The mousetraps needs more real-time sensor monitoring, hence the ULP
Has anyone tried building an ESP smart speaker from ESP + an ADC / speaker? Which components did you use? I would like to build one like what Marcelo showed during the YouTube for Out Loud since it had a rotary encoder too
easy ideas for something standalone and low profile that can simply beep when a contact is broken beyond a certain threshold, maybe on a timer?
have coworkers that keep leaving a door ajar that cannot be left open for reasons.
you could play audio on a Google Home Mini perhaps...may not be small enough for you
hello there,
Can you help me spot the issue?
There is an input gpio, and there is an output gpio.
If the pressure valve (it is a pressure sensor) turns on, the pump should turn on, and if the pressure valve turns off the pump should turn on. But the pump does nothing, probably the issue is on the automation, cause if I turn the pump on "by hand" from the ui it works, and ui also shows the correct state of the pressure sensor.
https://pastebin.com/rhvetTc3
Pastebin.com is the number one paste tool since 2002. Pastebin is a website where you can store text online for a set period of time.
Hi All, just wondering if anybody has played around with using home assistant for a car? I've got HA running at home and it's great... so great that I've decided to give my VW Transporter the same treatment! I've got a Teltonika RUT955 which will be my MQTT broker, RS485 interface and vpn back home to my HA server (the plan is that the van with just get a separate dashboard on my existing HA server - I'd actually prefer to have a separate server on a raspberry pi in the van, but connecting the HA phone app to two different instances at once doesn't seem to be an option). So far I'm looking to manage battery state, dehumidfy (I surf a lot so ideally, I'd like to dry my wetsuit in there so I don't have to keep taking it out of the car) remote lock/unlock, nfc tag lock/unlock (keep a tag in each of my wetsuits or leg ropes!). Also considering seeing if I can log info from the CAN bus - could be fun!
If anybody has done any of this before I'd be interested in any gotchas/tips etc, or if not, I'm interested in any other ideas you may have!
You can definitely connect mobile app to 2 instances. I have it that way. (so to have 2 HA servers)
I have one instance in parents house and one in my flat. You just need to switch between them in app after you will launch it. (I use iOS app but i have also Android tablet with HA app which was connected to both of my instances)
Hi there, I'm looking for a thermometer for my swimmingpool that I can read in HA from BLE or ZigBee. Anyone got any reference or DIY setup for this ?
Do you mean by changing the external (I'm using SSL so no internal URL to worry about)? That might be alright for visiting family but going from the van to the house is a pretty regular occurrence, and there's some overlap (I want to be able to open my garage from the van and the house)
I dont use it externally. I know it is possible but i dont trust it.
I mean in โappโ there is settings > companion app > add server
Do you really need to have HA accessible externally ?
And If you have iphone you can have homekit connection and open garage from homekit. And no external access is needed. And if you really would need full HA i would say VPN to home network.
I am unsure about Android.
If you really want to go diy then ESP32 (ble) + DS18B20 (plastic watterproof one) + EspHome
I didn't know you could do that! Unfortunately that's iOS only - hopefully it'll get added to android soon. RE security, SSL plus my randomly generated very long password is pretty decent. 2FA would be great to have... And I just checked and it's available! I should really read the release notes once in a while... I'll be adding that shortly. My password manager can deal with 2FA codes so no issues from me there :)
I have a pool with a regular thermometer. I'm now realising what an oversight this is! I'll add it to my list of projects...
A water level sensor would be great to pop in the same package come to think of it...
Because of you I am going to check because of you if its iOS only feature (I have some Android phones around)
okay you are right -> https://github.com/home-assistant/android/issues/296
currently it is only on iOS (don't know why) tested on my own
But you could trick it
You could try to download "beta" release (if its different package) then you could have 2 HA apps in phone. Or if you your device has something like "work profile" you still can have 2 same apps installed
Hi all. im piggy backing off a Tuya chip right now to replicate functionality. Does anyone know how a wake command or a ping for status?
or am i losing the tx because of piggy back
thanks
hey hey, good point. I will reboot the Solar WS project of Debasish Dutta (https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Solar_Powered_WiFi_Weather_Station_V3_0.html) I've order 5 PCB card. Just need to buy some extra chip !!!
Looks neat but it does much more then just "get temperatur from pool" ๐
sure but the goal is to reuse the solar part. I've already built the WS on my roof ๐
I think just running the one instance using VPN as i'm currently planning would be a less clunky solution for me. I try to keep as much automation as possible on my devices and using MQTT, so HA is more a pretty front end. If it can't connect back home it's not a massive deal - things will still work
Maybe just try #android-archived if somebody is planning implementation of that GH issue ๐
that would be perfect
Working on implementing an FSR bed occupancy sensor using an aqara door sensor, but then got to thinking that if I have to have two strips to cover the width of the bed, I should set it up to tell who is in bed, other than using 2 door sensors or going to the work to use an xbee, is there anything off the shelf I could mod? Hacking the aqara sensors is very convenient for cheap battery operated projects, be nice if there was something else out there with two inputs.
Aqara sensors expect a switch input. The FSR may not have a high enough resistance to register as "off" or a low enough resistance to measure as "on". The best way to do this is with the analogue inputs of an ESP32. There's a write-up on the community forum.
Thanks Tom, I have the prototype working with the aqara sensor
You just need to ground the 1v signal line to trigger a closed signal
Your thread triggered the idea, much appreciated, just trying to keep sensors on zigbee
@wary solstice hey just checking in to say thank you for that fishing line tip, it worked marvellously for the phone proximity sensor / hanging card setup, it is now smooth as butter. And as an added bonus I used it for my switchbot setup as well, to have just one bot move both sides of the curtain via wire
for anyone with double sided curtains wanting to get automated bots, just a quick tip:
you don't need 2 devices, just need a nail at the end of each side of the curtain track so as to wrap a wire around it. With the unit on the left curtain side, have one wire attached to the right side of the unit going to the right hand side, wrap around the nail (180*) and attach to the first link of the right curtain, while the other wire will be attatched to the left side of the unit and go to the left hand side, wrap around the nail and attach to the same link of the right curtain.
Best use fishing wire to do this, tried and tested, no worries for weight
I wanted a HA status board for a couple of rooms in my house that I could tell at a glance status of a few binary sensors (alarm set, kids home, home maintenance overdue, all doors closed). I put together a simple board with individually controllable neo-pixels. I'm using ESPHOME and fastled partitions to toggle between green and red when there is a state change in one of the binary sensors. And just because I could, I threw in a I2C temperature sensor. I'm pretty happy with these and have one on each floor of the house.
That looks good, I'm assuming a neat 3D-printed case to go with it too? ๐ Are you planning on releasing the board schematic and code for that, @bleak wyvern ?
wow that's awesome, how's it work?
cool stuff
I also have a chair occupancy sensor but it's more loose, as it's only based on webcam and doods
been lookin for something to replace it so cheers ๐
tight
Can anyone confirm that I will not burn down my house when I do this:
AC230V -> Old laptop PSU DC24V 3.5A -> Shelly 2.5 -> Velux blinds using DC24V
sounds about right if the Shelly accepts 24V input
hi there. likely not nthe right place for this but iots the best one i could find. i'm trying to create a smart home heating system myself co i can set up better automations than retail ones would allow. i need a thermostatic radiator valve that would report to home assistant if it was calling for heat. also, if you know of a heating controller that allows me to just turn on the heat, that would also be helpful. i did some googling that proved to be unhelpful. jthanks!
Anybody knows what to do with broken esp32 wemos d1? I have no red light anymore. I read something to replace diode?
i think i have a problem, using esp and trying to upload the code. After its done i can see it has connect to the right wifi. but in HA it just showing offline using a cabel to my mac if it makes any diffrent? bur after the install is done and showing the log i get this: """
@fringe iron this all I got
Max output power 100w
Max output current 4a/ch
12v
5m strip
Ah, because imgur is too hard to post to...
MagicHome LED controller
I'd start by checking the connection between the controller and the strip, that's the most likely problem
Then:
- Test a known good strip with the controller
- Test the controller with a known good strip
- Test both with a known good connector cable
Do you have a multi-meter?
In what sense?
No, I dont
Oh well, that'd have been one way to test for wire breaks
Nothing looks obviously broken. But that isn't saying much.
Maybe if I describe the problem we can solve it:
The red light goes perfectly but the green one is very week and the blue doesn't work
Could be a fault in the controller,in the cable connecting the controller to the strip, or the strip
That could also be a bad power supply. Not enough voltage for the LEDs with higher forward voltage.
This sounds like a potential powering issue. Red requires the lowest wattage to drive, then green, and blue is the highest. IIRC
Definitely, but bad power to the LEDs could still be a controller or cable issue as well...
I need help setting up mosquito and a ESP8266
Anyone built a media player with ESP32? I'm wondering if there are any recommendations on a pre-amp that can do volume control.
was looking for something like that myself now... would be great to have it self power, something like this maybe: https://mobiwater.co.ke/smarttanksensors/
wouldnt know where to start though. how would a device like that contact HA..? wifi and mqtt maybe?
I'd just use an esp8266 with tasmota hooked up to a temp gauge and a few wires at different levels in bit of pvc with an end cap and a small hole at the bottom, hanging from the lid of the skimmer box. The small hole is necessary so that the measured water level is accurate, and not picking up the sloshing.
Throw it in deep sleep, tell it to wake up once an hour to check the levels/temp, then go back to sleep. It'd hardly use any power so I'd just run it from a small rechargeable battery.
Anyone know if there is anywhere on a Shelly dimmer 2 that I can get a ground and gpio 0 apart from on the header? Ive broken the header
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you make it sound easy, but I still wouldn't know where to start..... would these be ready made components?
added to that, I would need a sensor that is in water all the time, alerting when water level drops so it is dry (and not like a dry sensor, alerting when it senses water). So it would be immersed 100% continuously, and have the correct IP classification for that. 67 probably or maybe even 68? not sure about that
Something like this for the water sensor.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0wqbk2
Only the wires are in the water, you can keep the rest up out of the water in a small box. Seal it where the wires come out with silicone or even hot glue.
Probably easiest to control with a wemos d1 mini - note this is 3.3v not 5v, so you'll have to use a voltage divider (basically just 2 resistors) so that you don't burn out the board.
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
If you're not in a huge rush, I'll be working on this myself later in the year, I can help you put it all together
Fyi: I have 2 large vertical tubes in my Pond (we call it swamp section) where the water if filtered . The pumps are at the bottom . The tubes are sealed with a lid. I figured the small box containing all is fixed to that lid, with a tiny whole for the sensor probe to go inside the tube.
It might even be made more simple, by just letting the probe rest in the swamp section. If water level decreases that runs dry soon before the pump runs dry ( itโs more that 150cm@deeperโฆ) . All I am saying is, it doesnโt even need to be connected to the tubes at all..
Just a water sensor not sensing water ;/)
Completed my version of the FSR bed presence sensor today, now to see how well it works.
Is anyone using pca9685 with esp32?
Is it still functional with the latest updates?
As an alternative what would do you use to control an RGBW ledstrip? The cheapest way if possible. I was looking at ZigBee pwm devices but they're a bit more costly (ยฃ45) whereas esp is around ยฃ8
Shelly RGBW2?
Not bad, do you have experience with it?
Thanks for the tip. Still 2x as much as would be with the esp32. But less expensive if I go for the esp and then it doesn't work and then having to buy a shelly ๐คฃ
but an esp isn't enough to drive LED strips on its own
I just need it to work with the pca 9685 to drive some FETs. I've had it working for a couple of years up until the latest update as python3.10 doesn't support the rpi_gpio_pwm library anymore
Hey everyone, I've got an ESP32 running ESPresense and I've also got an HC-SR501 PIR sensor wired up to it. No matter what I set the sensitivity or time delay pots to, I get constant false positives. A friend of mine has the same hardware setup under ESPHome and is experiencing the same. I've tried setting the jumper to Repeat Trigger and Single Trigger.
Has anyone gotten either of these combinations to work w/o a crazy amount of false positives?
I am not using this and I am also new to HA, but I am guessing, that the sensor sends trigger every time it detects person. And the trigger switches light on/off. I think there should be something done in your automation, maybe change a trigger type.
Maybe you should look on to templates, I think it has already one for presence light.
Hello everyone.
I am student and after experiences with domintell in our home I want to make project (for own use and also as final year project) for smart home.
I am thinking about touch display "switches" with programmable ui and buttons from web ui and also some manual switches (maybe some lights, relays, etc down the road). I was thinking about using zegbee/z-wave but it would make project expensive and also I didn't found lot of information about creating client. So I will probably use esp or rpi pico w with wifi. I also really like HomeAssistant so I want to use it as base.
Today I tried few experiments with MQTT. It worked ok, but it is limited and also hard to set up in HA (If you don't know what are you doing, you need to know all types of messages etc. I want to make it simple to use).
What do you think are my possible solutions? Create own addon and component? (I have experience creating an api and I think it would work in this example, but I am not sure how to implement it in HA and if it is the best solution). Or find a different protocol to comunicate with HA?
Please write your suggestions, I would be really happy.
DM's are welcome.
๐
something like these
That's not it @thorn cairn, it's not about an automation getting triggered, the entitity's history is showing activations when there isn't anyone in the room. This device is assembled and sitting on a shelf next my desk in my home office which has a closed door.
oh okay, Sorry I can not help with that. I was just guessing
This is likely a more low-level issue where someone more familiar with the specific hardware (HC-SR501) may have some feedback for me.
My initial assumption is that my habit of deciding which AliExpress listing to purchase based on which one is the cheapest is potentially the problem.
hey all, I have a question, I want to setup home assistant on a server and use raspberry pi's with sense hats as room sensors to detect temperature. Do you know where I can find a guide on how to do that...
So the instance of HA will not be running on the RPi, correct?
correct. I just want it to report back to home assistant
Seems like an expensive room sensor, is there a reason you want to go this route and not ESP8266?
I have 500 pi 3b+ with sense hats and I figured I could use some of them this with this
lol...yeah, that might be considered a bit of a surplus.
LOL this company was going to trash them all and I said give them all to me!!!
lucky you.
My first thought is that I would look into having the SensePis publish to MQTT
I was waiting for the new sensehat to reach me before writing this post, but the recent updates suggests that I may not get it before the deadline. So I decided to go on with the faulty one I have.ย Although the code will work regardless of the ...
If you wanna send me a a dozen or so of them, I'll build it, document it and share it with you. ๐
Is there a plan to use the mic on the M5 Stack smart speakers with the voice assistant in HA?
how close are you to Ohio?
Maybe ask in one of the devs channels?
not very? West coast of Canada.
LOL WOW yeah that would be a drive..LOL
While I appreciate the offer of white gloved delivery service, USPS would also be suitable.
(joke, obviously I'd be driving to you...in a world where you were much closer.)
LOL
Are you already familiar with using MQTT?
so I am a beginner to Linux and raspberry pi's.. I saw home assistant and I was in love with it..
I never used MQTT
Well, MQTT doesn't really require any Linux knowledge.
i only have dabbled with Home assistant one time
mqtt is all programming isn't it?
MQTT is just a message broker, it's not really programming but understanding the concept of objects is useful.
A message broker is basically a high-performance database for transient data instead of long-term storage.
So you "publish" data to it like the temperature value of a sensor or lighting level then another thing subscribes to a topic, waiting for information to arrive, like an instance of HA which can then pull that data in as a "sensor".
But, if you've never done any programming, it could sound daunting I'm sure.
Have a read of that element14 link, it looks like you can get most of the way there with it.
element14 link? I would say no, because I haven't heard of that
The one I posted up there ^
oh yes I am reading it currently
so i just want to make sure I have this correct...
Raspberry pi will gather all the data from the sense hat and then send it off to MQTT and then Home Assistant will pull that info from MQTT every X number of minutes......
Am I correct on that?
Got my Emporia energy monitors flashed to esphome, setup in Home Assistant, and installed.
Not pictured is my rats nest of a breaker panel currently lol
Dont know where to post this so I will post it here......
PRETEXT: If you are on the FB group I purchased these 4x4" Android 8 display switches that have 2 relays in them as GPIO's from Alibaba. The manufacturer gave me the API and I have posted a project on freelancer.com to make an android app that is MQTT-GPIO to run in the background of the Android Switch.
https://www.freelancer.com/projects/android/MQTT-GPIO-Android-34168530/details
I currently have a lovelace dashboard on the Android and need to gain access to the GPIO's hence why I posted the project on freelancer.com
QUESTION: How do i ensure that the APP that is designed, doesnt have any form of nefarious code in it that essentially has free access to parts of my infrastructure???
CLARIFICATION: Since posting on freelancer.com (Im not kidding when I say this was LESS THAN 15 minutes ago) some scammer (I dont quite know what the scam is) has cut and paste my project exactly TO THE WORD and 10 Indian/Bangladeshis' have bid on the scam project AND the bid pricing has been bidded upwards. Im going to leave the project up to expire regardless and NOT award the bid to anyone.
If anyone with integrity would like to give this a shot - pls let me know - I WAS willing to pay to get this done but with all the SCAM shit within minutes - now Im looking for someone with integrity