#the-water-cooler
1 messages · Page 98 of 1
for shame
Speed limits where I am are largely only followed if it's snowing
Then people do the exact limit
Sadly we are not very good people here in California. At least not me.
not your fault, you weren't driving
Thank you. That's what I always say. 😀
The "driver" is much more considerate and careful when overtaking and pisses off less people. So I let the best person do the job.
"why is my ha box so loud today"
oh its burning
of course its some docker being stuck .-.
That's an awfully high temp for a not that high load
been around 30F the last couple of days. feels nice and warm lol
I need to hire someone with extensive Zwave knowledge to troubleshoot my system. Are there any companies out there that do that?
Ah huh
Do you have extensive issues?
Random dead nodes, delays in commands, think MQTT is not setup properly either
Zwave and MQTT would be the 2 most reliable networks in any of my installs. Might be something simple. Ask around you might get some dedicated help.
For some reason I have duplicates and the MQTT ones are named weird and don’t work.
60+ Zwave devices
Why are you running both direct and through MQTT?
The more the merrier
LOL
Cooooooooldfiiiiiiiinger
On her majesty's slippery surface
these are hilarious
Sir David Atternbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Because apparently I don’t know what I’m doing. How do I fix it?
😂🤣
As explained in the channel topic you don't get help here 😉
#zwave-archived can help you though
5 fingers this time, impressive
raccoon hands are wrong though, they have 5 fingers too
Woo, got some shelves hung.
for which crime?
this will fit so much printing gear
A high availability Home Assistant cluster
Please be more precise. Device trigger, event trigger, state trigger, numeric state trigger,...
edge or level triggered?
dead man trigger(ed)?
You must be in a dry climate, around here my rolls would turn to soggy mush if I kept them out like that
Yea, it's really dry here basically all the time
I have years old rolls that print fine
My house average humidity is like 50%
my office is currently at 37%
You leave a roll of PETG out and it's unprintable lol
The only humidity sensor I have is in a bathroom to trigger an exhaust fan when the shower is used, it's reading 25.2% right now
Living in a wet climate is good for many things, but not for printing lol
I need a better system, I'm never on top of rotating my desiccant enough
Hard to have humidity when it's 13F outside
My humidity went below 50 when it was freezing outside lol
I have humidifiers but I don't run them unless I start getting irritated from the dry
Around here AC is half used just to dehumidify lol
It's crazy how much water those things pull from the air
Even on really dry days when I have my A/C on there's a regular drip
On humid days it can be a straight up stream of water
I just know the grass grows really well near the drip line of my heat pump lol
Mine drips on a rock and I get a little mossy patch there in summer
my downstairs AC drains into the washing machine drain and it often freaks me out to hear the water stream
makes me think that something is leaking
I have a sump pump that spits it back outside from the basement furnace
I kind wish I had more small units
Mine ran for like 3 hours the other morning when it was cold
I asked GPT for an existential meme about surviving in a capitalistic system and got this absurdity in response
The human legs are killing me lol
A capitalAst hamsSter wheel 
The wording is insane as expected lol
Better than expected for an AI image
A regen got it mostly correct, but way more depressing
I love it
Very nice base to do some touchups on
Yeah, some of these would be perfect with fixed text
Tell it to draw megadesk
wut lol
Looool
yea, people creating virtual goods will have to get used to use AI as a tool
I just hope it doesn't make learning way worse
^includes codes and other techy assets
Sorry it's got no clue lol
As long as someone needs to pull the levers some of us will still have jobs lol
I'm in the field of fixing exactly that 😂
I think in 50 years people will look at certain roles as insane you would ever do them by hand
Like no we have a contract loom right here, don't weave it by hand
colleague built a 10k smart socket earlier today 😄
Using a extender with physical switch
And a 10k€ robot
Lol maybe a little overdone
computers^^
We have easy ways to remote onto those robots
We don't have a good way to integrate HA with corp security requirements^^
Just put it in a box and only let out webhooks lol
It just punted on the eternal "how do four-legged creatures wear pants?" question
or maybe settled it 🙂
Lol
Oh dear god
That's pretty hot. Not the shelves but the printer setup. Do you print something useful with them or just parts for the printers like most people? 
define useful 😂
Most of my prints are functional prints
I hardly print things for my printers though
I have a Bambu, not a ton to print for it
Fixed my headphones today by printing a spare part. Probably the first time ever it felt useful
What kind of stuff do you usually print?
Oh very nice
I printed like 30 hooks in total for my controllers
Lots of post-process work though
I've got headphone stands, I printed a mount for my headphone amp/dac to hold it under my desk
None of those had any post processing
That's just how they come off the Bambu
Well, the Majora's Mask one was in multiple parts and needed glued
damn okay then. The multi-filament stuff is very impressive
I've tried to swap between two to try it out and it works on an Ender 3 clone, but it's just not worth the hassle
I added a second toolhead to my ender 3
reminds me, I still have a lamp project I wanted to do...
Originally had a 4->1 mixing nozzle on the second toolhead but it sucked so I swapped it with the stock ender hotend
Support material is great. If you have dual gantries you can print your support material out of PETG on one and the model out of PLA on another and the PETG and PLA separate really easily where they meet.
Or there's dissolvable PVA support material
I find that the organic supports in prusaslicer work great and detach super ez
Even in single material
Even the best single material interface isn't as good as proper support material. It can print with zero gap between the support material and the model material so no droops, no weird bottom surface.
we have a raise3d pro3 at work (not my choice) but it can do amazingly clean large overhangs
It's got a clever dual head with DD extruders tho
I have a direct drive and a bowden on mine
And dual z axis to drive it
The Bambu prints way better than the Ender does though so I mostly only use the Ender when my Bambu is already busy
dual z is a requirement lol, quality is trash on single drive gantries
Yeah my ender is barely an ender still it's had so many upgrades
Auto gantry leveling with independent dual z looks like magic the first time you see it
Yeah I had to build my firmware to add that support
I went with Klipper
But just adding a finer pitch z screw means it never drifts
I've been meaning to try kilipper but never gotten around to it
I had Klipper running three SKR Mini E3 V3's with 10 motors and two hotends/gantries
I'm reluctant to touch my ender tho
It really is for me just hit print and forget
The only time I get a failure is trying to minimize supports too much lol
My Z probe isn't as reliable as I'd like so I frequently have to adjust the z offset up or down .1mm or so but other than that mine is set and forget
For the Bambu I frequently don't even check on a print after hitting start
Only came back to a plate of spaghetti once
Yeah it's nice having a reliable machine
Most of the ender problems come from gantry droop and hitting the print
Or just the crap stock cooling fan only blowing from one side lol
I had a couple broken projectors, I took some of the high airflow blowers meant to cool the bulbs and put them on my ender 3
If I don't have a sock on the hotend the fan wins and it goes into thermal overrun protection
I mean it is possible to over-cool haha
Yea I hooked them to a PWM output so I could control it and generally ran it around 20%
I had it blow over a print once, lol
You're going for it to reduce below the glass temp as quickly as possible, but still be hot enough to bond with the layer below
The print had a little indent in it, fan started blowing in it after it printed and it knocked over
How soon till we can calibrate nozzle temp and fan speeds with a thermal scope camera?
:o I have a thermal camera I could do that with
Have it run the filament without part cooling until it's flowing at the ideal glass temp for the material
Then tune the fan speed till it falls back below that temp
Honestly my Bambu does 90% of my printing anymore
It seems to be the one everyones hot for now
I can get the Ender to almost match the Bambu in quality but nowhere close in speed
Rigidity and tolerances cost money lol
And when I speed up the Bambu to the point the quality is lowered to what the Ender can do the Bambu is absurdly fast
Has anyone looked into input shaping on an ender 3 or similar? It seems like that's the main trick Bambu has nailed and it should be pretty easy to replicate
Yeah it's called klipper lol
It helps a lot but isn't a magic bullet
You still need the sensor to measure it
Yea, I have the adxl sensor
It definitely improved ringing a lot
Made pressure advance issues a lot more obvious though
I find I generally have to test brand/color combos but in my experience buying the same color from the same brand has been consistent
Any good brand should have a consistent formula
Some cheaper ones can be a little more variable lol
I forget which brand clearly changed suppliers or something because the filament totally changed
But I learned my lesson with cheap filament after having rolls tangle on me lol
I was buying hatchbox but had three rolls from them tangle on me in a month
Tho a rewind spool seems to help a lot with that
I've got a subscription to Bambu's filament program that came with my printer and can get refill spools for basic PLA for $16 from them
So I've been using that
but idk if I'm going to renew when my membership expires
$16 isn't that great of a price
@tidal bronze should go to chicago and experince "frost quakes". apparently that city is depserate for attention to highlight something like that lol https://youtu.be/X9nUvQq-vVk?si=ZQ8rDJmnXuQKXDfe
If you see a little shake or hear something unusual during the cold snap, it's nothing to worry about -- but it is an example of a fascinating phenomenon. CBS 2's Tara Molina reports.
CBS 2 News Chicago brings you breaking news, weather, compelling exclusive content, a...
I do like refill spools instead of wasting a ton of plastic on a spool for each roll
16 bucks for how much?
anything cheaper is probably shite lol
Sounds more than reasonable
The amazon basic etc is like 25€/kg for the most part here
My mom got me a bunch of glow in the dark and wood filament for christmas
Hope you're not printing with brass nozzles lol
Both of those will destroy a brass nozzle
I'm a fan of nickel plated, nothing sticks to them
Wood filament is my favorite tho, you can sand and stain it
I have stainless and hardened steel nozzles
Bonus points for hitting the depths with a base primer coat
Is this a just a tax thing or where are you ordering from?
Mostly amazon
But in seattle amazon has like 50 warehouses in our back yard
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QN5FQX7/ has been my recent prints
me who exclusively buys orange petg because the color makes a difference in how well it behaves for whatever reason
petg can be a fickle bitch
There is a lot of good PLA+ that has stronger print strength but less flex like PETG too
sadly they arent that uv resistant
Oh for sure
I thought about finally trying ASA
I've got all the setup that could do it anyways
I've got some PC I've been using with my Bambu
I haven't noticed any amazing strength increases between PC and PETG though, but the PC looks nicer imo
My printer chamber isn't heated/doesn't get hot enough to print PC how it should be printed though
Ends up with subpar layer adhesion
You can kinda fake that by just letting the bed heat for a couple hours
So the whole machine warms up
I was thinking of building something like a 250w space heater to put in there
If I ever have the need
What about just doing a PTC heater
I'd want to be able to regulate it
Those are self regulating tho
They regulate the wire temperature
I'd rather the environmental temperature be regulated
And if the coil only gets as hot as I want the chamber to be it'll take hours to warm up
I'll probably go with an esp32 to control a relay going to a heating coil, have one core on it dedicated to controlling the heater and the other core to handle wifi to control the heater
I wonder if esphome can do that
Probably not, and it'd be easy enough with esp-idf
that sounds like a strangely complex solution compared to printing at higher temperatures
Printing at a higher temperature would ruin print quality, some filaments just want heated chambers.
That and I think PC about maxes out my hotend and heatbed anyways
thats only what the software devs want you to believe
Some people wrap their bambus in insulation to get the chamber hotter
And their new overpriced enterprise model does have a heated chamber
But it's also $2500
idk if I want the bed hotter
It's already really easy to burn yourself on when it's at max temp
It goes to 110C I think
but does it reach those temperatures
Yea, it'll hold 110C
If the door is closed
From what I've heard a small heater to hold the chamber around 70C increases PC print quality by a lot
for what ive seen on my ender its off by about 10* in total and also not very uniformly distributed. could be less of an issue with more expensive ones but i end up preheating for about half an hour after it supposedly reached whatever temp
The Bambu preheats for 10 or 15 minutes before printing
I decided to upcycle my old rotary phone into a DIY Siri
It preheats, gives it a minute, does a bed level, does a mesh level, then starts printing
I can turn off the leveling but I find it's a lot more reliable if I just run it before every print
could you manually extend those durations?
There's a gcode to 'dwell' that I think could act as a pause
Yeah a long preheat “soak” will help
I could also just manually turn on the bed before I start printing if I wanted to use that to heat it
i could see you just using the bed set to max temperature for a while before starting to print to preheat the chamber
I wonder if the chamber will maintain temp if preheated like that
I'd at least have to turn off the exhaust fan on it, lol
idk what that's about
I've measured 2kw peaks while heating but it generally hovers around 300-500w
110v users getting ripped off ;D
There'd be no reason to limit 110v to 350w, we get 1250w off of the lowest power standard outlet here
And it only pulled 2kw for a couple seconds which is fine
a sea racoon
That u-turn though
There was definitely some looney tunes running in place there
lol, my cats have done that when they encounter something unexpected on the table or bed they just jumped onto
Like a sea lion?
Hey, what I keep on my bed is my business
because "their average dryer" is rated for ~6kw
knowing that an oven from other regions commonly has a higher power draw than a dryer they likely use arc furnances in their kitchen
thats the joke
the funny
Don't blame the little fellow for the about face. Those leopard seals play with their food: https://imgur.com/a/1RIPgzI (2010 @ Casey Antarctica).
This is what came to mind for me
well, yea. they often go to 500° or something stupid
I mean that's normal. Top number on my oven dial is 250°C which is 482°F
thats the joke
the funny
Looks a little cold
mwh? Who uses electrical cooking appliances?
Luke warm people
I cook using induction
Black magic
with decent pans and pods, it's nice to use
the one thing I don't understand though, why is this layout a thing?
knobs behind the hot surfaces they control?
Not at all
never seen that before. Ours is just one big slab of glass
I've only ever seen them in 'murican TV
Mine controls are in a cluster toward the center-front and I wish they were on the front instead. It's a pain in the ass to clean around them
oh, physical buttons on top, not just sensor/touch buttons?
physical dials. gas, though
mine has touch controls on the glass. So cleaning is easy
I don't like that range control arrangement above either, especially when people invariably put spices containers on top that get hot as they age
it's pretty much the prototypical stovetop/oven range that you'll find in the US, thoguh
Have you used NG?
natural gas?
I am yet to see them behind
is there a huge difference between NG and propane stoves? 🤔
we have (or had, we closed it) the largest gas field in all of europe so, most people are used to cooking on NG. Like me, until I moved
I have use them all. I will jump off a cliff if my daily driver is electric
it literally makes no difference
Then you have not used a professional natural gas stove
heat is heat
I can’t get a gas hookup where I’m at, ever
Sounds like you don't cook much
you're american, what do you know about cooking
Lol damn u went there
dont you guys order like 5 days per week
more than you if you think it make no difference 😂
@primal laurel and you are?
oh no, quad will use his favorite misconception 😂
I am waiting to here about hid culinary experience, let's see....
microwave noodles with ketchup is my special
Right on. Heat is heat.
correct
though I prefer the more modern (fancy?) induction tops that do away with specific "burner" zones over gas
For my use case gas and induction are pretty close. So the convenience beats it.
Ceran or even older just can't keep up though
If you are the Baseline yes correct
do you put a lot of gas in your food? Or how does that work
nah, I make gas out of my food (imagine a fart sound onomatopoeia here)
it would have been easier and cheaper to install an induction stovetop when I did my remodel, and that's probably what I would do if I did it again
I already had a big enough circuit for it, and had to run a gas line
you probably want it on 3 phase though
also, gas is super cheap here and electricity is...not
Yeah I’m not too sad about gas when we have some of the cheapest power
it was just a regular glass electric stovetop before, so I might have found the power source lacking
Those suck lol
yeah, I was reminded of that when I went to see my mom over the holidays
take too long to heat up, retain the heat too long
can't ever really tell what temp they're at
look the same hot and cold
they scratch
^^
But 3phase induction beats gas in raw power (for most installations)
And modern ones don't do stupid things like essentially pwm with second or cycle instead of cycles per second
yeah it's crazy powerful, I think this one can do like 7kW
Did this really escalate:D
That's still around 21000 BTU.
Yep very much powerful heat. 🤣
As long as that Instant Ramen is top-notch. More "power" to ya!
no it 'ignited' 
cooking ramen on 7kW, done instantly!
beat that mr natural gas
Good for you 👍
Now I can picture what 7kw is like https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Liquefied-Stovetop-Integrated-Stainless/dp/B0CG5LD2XG
Yep can't beat that
Are you lot arguing over the best surface for cooking?
Gas wins for asian wok cooking, induction otherwise is pretty comparable, just turn on and go
oh yeah for sure I wont cook on a wok
But you said heat is heat? What's up with that?
i do like the gas ones because its more fun
like doing your steaks over coal than over a pan
So your 7kw is not Wokkable?
Yes but thats basically comparing a bbq to a frypan
they’re two separate things
Unless you just hold the steak over the flame with tongs lol
if i dont want to have fun i use a microwave
black magic but in a box so the neighbours dont notice
it depends on what you call a bbq i think
if its just about doing meat slowly like pulled anything, an oven will do this just fine
I must be able to use anything I want.
but its like, too easy
why?
electric oven
Cast Iron and Gas can beat the grill in the right hands.
thats pretty much the same thing as a pan
at least the moment i touch one
it doesnt get significantly hotter from the cooking aspect of it
you get the nice wood smells and stuff
Barely. I know it's not a popular opinion but I really despise those Weber Qs.
A BBQ needs to be able to cook adequately with the lid up.
Those things basically force you to shut the lid and steam your meat because they don't get hot enough otherwise.
Interesting, I’ve had the opposite experience, cooks fine with the lid up and gets hot enough
All this "powerful 7kw" cooking made me hungry. Lemon garlic Branzino it is.
they look fishy ^^
oven?
Yes, GAS oven lol
ah okay, that's zeebaars here
🦓 s
Why gas oven
They offer no benefit over electric
Just pain
You and your wife really don't like seeing each other
Lol. I love food but some smells I don't like lingering in the house. So purpose built.
I use the electric oven - keep warm feature when guests are over that's about it.
a second house just to cook food?
2 kitchens indoor and 1 outside.
madness!
The fish kitchen and everything else?
He has special heat
It's California, always special. Come on now.
Doe normaal, dan doe je al gek genoeg
Or translated, act normal, then you're already crazy enough
So where you from?
Another Amazon find
Safety for Chilnren
"Gently for woman"
What If they like it hot and a dude wants it cold, ehehe
I think this marketing is brilliantly flawed.
Grandpa over there be thriving at "midly" ya know ahaha
They all say 38C 👀
Gotta submit your age and gender to unlock 38+
Age 16-60
and male
So @clear ferry wouldn’t get it
I prefer around 42
-42?
that isn't wrong either
I can’t see you wanting anything above 0
Make it like a car with valet mode. Gotta swipe the NFC tag embedded in your hand to unlock the higher temperature
Also water rations for each member of the household
Dam, do they need cloud access too?
Full body analysis 
That’ll be gen 2
submit your licence or other ID to verify your details, pay a monthly fee, get ads whilst showering
Ahh just as it was meant to be 
Can't live without those ads
I'm sure they'll have a marketing ID for very user too to track you cross ad networks
Very useful for suggestive marketing
And I would absolutely hope every open source integration that makes zero dollars on using their API will be sent legal threats correct 🤣😭

Good sauce 🫠
So I've got a creepy amazon device from China that was recently removed from their page
There of them in fact
I've already gutted it, took less then a minute and I'm... semi surprised 🤭
They definitely be using off the shelf stuff but also making their own chips?
Check it out, wants some opinions on it
It's a mini doorbell uses 2.4ghz
Nice seeing people still take pictures with the old Kodak digital cameras from 1997
Analog pictures digitalized with a handheld scanner 
And know I don't trust it, when I have people gift me stuff like this I hack it and try to dig up documented or undocumented exploits.
Least that's what I've been doing since I experimented with this "bulb" cameras, used it traditionally for a month to gather the consumer experience and then attempted to hack it..
Was able to access the feed locally, and during travel was punching out over a clear tunnel with the clear text password "password1234" to some sun Corp in China for sending back to user via their app.
Someone documented it already.
So now I wanna do the same thing to this thing
Pictures taken under the covers with a Samsung S1 surely @iron granite
Samsung a 71 actually
Camera is damaged, need to replace it... ahaha
Does look like Kodak 😂
Welll the Kodak 1997 purple digital camera that could also be used as a webcam
It made better pictures if you shook it while taking a picture
Ahaha
That explains it, I had an a71 for 6 months, then I chucked it in the trash
I've had it since launch
Love the thing
Just had a bad go
With um dropping it in water
Then 6 months later had to change the charging port
But didn't have the right adhesive
So used alien tape melted
The heat and chemicals buggerd up the camera
Probably just the lens or cover
But definitely did it in
I've got plans to redo it
Gonna hold out till it's killed off..
Okay back to creepy cam
This gotta be the processor?
Looks like 640×480 @ 30fps is its limit for video streaming too
Least I know it's an off the shelf chip
I wonder if they implemented cryptography or bootloader lock
The chips set supports it supposedly
Some unused interfaces
Those are probably how you flash it at factory
I just find it odd that alot of the design is using I guess modular parts?
Build a bridge
Dangerous little sitting nook ahaha
K conspiracy theory
What if the Chime is a key logger or remote code execution device 😅
Because why... why the usb a port
That's just... silly
It would have not cost much more to implement AC for wall outlets.
Since that's logically what most people would do
When an average user buys something and sees USB a... I think they imagine pluging it into their PC
Which the Manual doesn't tell you what to do with it, as you would expect from a 9 dollar product
Ah, but that means you have to make different versions for different countries, and that does cost money. A USB one you can sell the same thing everywhere
That's actually a fair point
But you could also sell adapters
Which are just plastic and metal
As long as the device has the ability to handle up to 220v
Yep my bad
I wonder if the USB A port could be used to write firmware on it, probably not though.
I'd be actually surprised if the chime has any kind of reprogrammable micro. I assume that coil antenna labelled "433" is how the two haves communicate, chime is probably dumb
Just a signal transferred over radio?
Wouldn't be surprised
Like an old-timey analogue garage door opener
Has a tin like speaker
Yea, that would make the most sense, gonna pop it open and see
I just don't see any other reason for it to have a coil antenna labelled "443" other than that
Ohh that's not the 2.4ghz antenna?
This probably is the 2.4G
The long trace and big ground plane cutout (as well as the close proximity of one end of it to the micro) are the giveaway
Yep you were bang on
The one chip says 13.52127mghz
Which is very close to 1/32 of 433MHz, so that also tracks
Your camera lens may be dirty/scratched.
The black ic chip says
3 ICs, which if I had to take a wild stab is: one flash chip to store the sound(s) it makes, one DAC, and one RF receiver
CT2220ls 2317jcm612
I thought the 13mghz chip handled rf?
The silver package is just a crystal oscillator
Provides timing signal to one of the other things
My phone camera is melted, or it's a bit of a Long takle, scroll up for context
Ahh like rtc but for timing radio signals?
Just something that sends pulses at a set frequency for clock cycles to be based on
Makes sense
And 1/32 (1/2⁵) is a common frequency divider, 13.52127 × 32 = 432.68064
A7 just a diode
Are the other two entirely unmarked?
This one
CMT2220LSW - HOPERF is a China leading own-designed manufacturer in digital sensor, RF transmitter & receiver & transceiver modules and ICs, and related network application solutions.
That's my best guess
You can multiply and divide the frequency of an oscillator so generally a board will have one oscillator and all the other ICs on the board will multiply/divide based off of that one. When you've got something rigid like an RF frequency or TV signal frequency you'll generally want the clock speed to be an easy factor/multiple of it. Things like microprocessors or memory modules are generally quite flexible with their timing so they're less of a concern.
So if I was to find a way to jailbreak the Camera's firmware, I could technically take advantage of the the dumb accessory.. probably could just by sending the same signal.
Oscillators are more expensive than frequency multipliers/dividers
So the 13mhz oscillator is probably the most expensive part.
In that case one of those IC's could be used to multiply or divide the timing?
If you get deep into MCU programming different parts of the cpu frequently have their own frequency multipliers/dividers
Possible, it's also common for a frequency multiplier/divider to be built into another chip
So you don't need an external one
I doubt it's the most expensive part, it's just more expensive than a couple more transistors etched into a wafer
An oscillator is a piezo-electric crystal that vibrates at a known frequency when a current is applied to it.
I'm mostly just off on a tangent though, I didn't really look at the photos much
Makes sense
Also good to know, definitely brain food
So the chime dumber then a wyze chime 
And the camera uses relatively available parts
The next question is, how does it pair to the app in order to grab wifi credentials?
I would assume Bluetooth
My favourite one of those was the app made a QR code on the screen and you scanned it with the device
No mention of bluetooth in the CPU datasheet
But that does leave
- QR code
- Flashing lights at the camera
- Making tones its mic can pick up
- WiFI access point mode
^^
Good points I forgot about those
The battery and camera module can be easily swapped out
And the board has terminals for 5v
But even though there's mogualabily
There
I don't see anyone doing that if the max is 640p
Or roughly around that number 🤭
Guess it's time to setup a lab
And analyze it's traffic and behavior
Hmm
The last two are probably diodes
But what's these Chips do, I struggle to dig up docs 😵💫
Actually maybe I was reading the wrong line. Could be 1080p
Well one of them is obviously the other half of the 433MHz transmitter
p25016h is a flash chip
Firmware location perhaps?
lpa2104s is an audio amplifier
For the speaker probably
Aren't you guys supposed to be at 230V as well and not 220? It doesn't look like the temperature has made much of a difference here
Plotting all these datapoints is making HA very unhappy, lol.
How do you guys measure voltage?
I use my UPS
Is it every switch/relay monitoring
I have a meter in my breaker box
I have UPSes too but I don't record them to HA
And a I like the idea of a meter
I used to use them to measure wattage
I don't either, but I do monitor them by SNMP
I don't know which one I'm more inclined to believe. The top line is an APC SMT1500, bottom is an Eaton 9PX1000
I've got a tiny office ups from the mid 2000's
Recently changed the battery on it
Really need to reconfigure what's drawing power on it
Since I just wanna run the Pi's via it, and send a shutdown command via it's Linux software
Either over serial or some how through the rj11 port
But atm it's running my ap's for 30 minutes 🤣
So I've gotta get to that, not very useful
My number one goal is to safe shutdown, and bring back up the pi's once time runs out
And eventually get a cheap ups to do the same for the server
Which is a Supermicro brute..
Thats so weird
Like why bother doing that, just have it open and enjoy the extra space
Hey I've got a long question.
But any suggestions for this?
As some of ya know I'm trying to implement 3 IOT Relays into this 3 gang junction, it's deep but fitting wires at their standard link has become a challenge.
I also need to fit three spdt "dumb" paddle switches.
One is a 3 way parallel circuit, the other two are just 2 way with their wiring staying in this junction.
There's alot going on here, I'm following Canadian Electrical code with the exception of color convention being ignored in some places (I've done my best to keep it logical for the next election, might even leave lables and a schematic/map.)
But my main issue here is fitting, I don't think it's possible unless I cut back unnecessary wite and use a 5 port wago and a 6 port clamp down, I would have to special order those in since local shops don't supply such termination methods.
I've already tried using multiple push in and clamp down connectors with jumpers, this was compact but the wiring was in the way, so I re did it with two big wing nuts, these are now in the way, ahaha....
So a quick run down, 5 neutral conductors and 6 common conductors.
Neutral is my return path to the panel.
@dawn moth I converted your message into a file since it's above 15 lines :+1:
Another thought was to install a secondary junction directly behind this wall, as the utility room is right there, the plan would be use this junction for the spdt switches and route all my bridged conductors as extensions going out of the bottom of the junction into the junction directly behind it where I'll keep the relays.
Pros, no wires get shorter which opens the door to changes, and the relays get their own junction in the utility room with a ul listed cover, so maintenance or changes are easy.
When push my endo scope through there's a stuff on the other wall so great mounting point..
The bad news, it's a cramped work environment, would be cutting the drywall and fishing romex behind a furnace but there's enough room to safely due so..
Finally yes these iot relays are certified to my knowledge.
Any help is greatly appreciated, I've been without lights in the downstairs for 3 days due to complications with two 3 ways circuits, ahaha
Dam you bot... hmph
I've gotta alot to say
Can't be compressing my words..
Awee
Oki fine
For the raccoons..
This... is um
By the same company that built the software and possibly the camera too
They also made that ear endoscope 😅
Besides my morbid curiosity wanting to see if the employee had the guts to film trying it ||spoiler, they didn't|| I was interested to hear a familiar audio tone in the background
Is their factory also assembling jank dash cams? 
Because, muuuuurica
Probably our local transformer is quite overloaded in -25c
Not that it matter until you go below 208 tbh
Spec for AU/NZ is 230V +10%/-6%, 216-253V. Pretty big range
Ive seen the same in Singapore too
Isn't just America lol
Seems like we're at 239.2v currently here lol
Seems to hover more around 236-240
Ours is 10% either way
So 207-253 is fine
This will be fun
Up to 40mm of probably rain will come night to monday
In our already snowy landscape of -20c+
Don't you just have a direct 12kV feed into your house?
Actually, with all your servers, 137kV might be better
What's with the crippled per phase voltage?
Statistics and the lies associated with them volume 4
Two 120v phases 180deg out of sync adding up to 240v
Kinda interesting that your measurements are so stable
Aka split phase power
The regular slight dips are my garage space heater
It's much more messy around here
do you see the 15min irregularity? 🤔
I hit 253V in the summer 😭
Yea it does that
inverter turns off when that happens
Holy crap did they really not coat the stainless steel on the cybertruck? Apparently these things are corroding immediately lmao
Happens, it's a small startup where they bang those together in a garage
Lol if you want to see shithouse watch a few episodes of the show “how it’s made: supercars”
The other brands have tons of fixtures to assemble things, Tesla has two guys carry a wobbly body panel over and set it by hand
im so happy those things are not legal to drive here
Too ugly to be allowed on the road?
Apparently they can't handle snow
Me Canadian sad
Ahaha of course not
it wouldn't pass safety tests
So many bad decisions in one car
Yea as someone who likes the concepts of ev's I still expected that result from the reviews 🤭
If the the thing needs firmware updates for it's controller like the Ford ev
Then the market is going down a scarier road
You mean the appification of cars?
Where they just license you the right to drive it lol
And it needs a hundred updates to work
The average car has hundreds of individual processors in it now
Yea and those should have individual firmware 🤭
Not one system to rule them all
And when the devs brick it
No more drive time 🤣
Yep that too
Don't get me wrong I love ev technology and iot car features
Just keep it redundant... even better make it open source and share firmware 
Except they don't do that 🫠
Anyone here a proud owner of Garmin watches? I had an idea of using the watch to share my contact (phone number, name) through NFC. But as far as I'm aware, the watch doesn't provide NFC API. Anyone ever had the same thought? Or perhaps knows of a way?
That isn't even new
That started happening 20 years ago
Lol true
At work we use a microcontroller that is typically used for door locks
Literally a purpose built processor for a door lock
I modded a ikea vindriktning and a förnuftig today.
Can recommend, fun projects!
I’m kinda reluctant to get more ikea sensors, I’ve had so many of the older gen ones fail or decide to start eating batteries on me
These are wired
I’ve still had multiple sensors and remotes just croak on me too
I’m kinda done with the brand personally
Tho maybe that’s why they redid so much of the smarthome line lol
I hate the emalgamation of microprocessors in cars, I prefer Audi of the 80s, hydraulics, vacuum and buttons
The Audi C3 2.2q is my definition of perfection
then why don't you still drive it?
Because it does not fit in with having two kids, and most of them are Collectors objects these days if they aren't hunks of rust
I'd buy one if it came off the construction track new today in a heartbeat
There is actually not a single one for sale in Norway now
It isn't even available as a model choice in the search
Quite a few in Germany from 6-15k eur
I did love my E30 but constant maintenance was tough with infants/toddlers
My buddy has a classic E30 and I literally cannot fit behind the wheel to drive it
The dash basically murders my knees
Only BMWs i would fancy is a E24 or E32
My wife bought an X3 because it could fit all of us, including my 2m tall son in the back seat
Really? I wrote the X3 totally off because it was useless in space
I looked at the X5, but I wanted 7 seats and the X7 was too expensive, so I got the XC90
My son can sit behind me and we’re both 2m/6’8”
I'm not tall so small is fine
The X3 was no upgrade from the Tiguan, and that was also pretty useless with two kids
Lol my daily driver is a 2 door mini cooper
Rear facing car seats need some space
It’s basically the tardis, it’s bigger on the inside
I will never forget the article I read when I was in the US, where the Subaru beat the VW because it had 19 cup holders instead of 17
Most American biased article I've ever seen
My kids are 20, 21 and the wife’s kid is 11 so no car seats lol
Mine are 2 and 5
The "family car" was out of commission
I always chuckled that the E30 is smaller than a modern mini in every dimension except length (hatchback)
I believe it
I bought my mini cooper because it was the top rated car for tall guys
Personally in a Bolt now. Went from lots of maintenance to practically none.
I'm in the shop with both the Volvo and the leaf once a year
That's a sexy car
Yeah I miss it
The monkeys own it now
@last cedar
I love eating trash, oops I mean normal human things like drinking milk
Yes I too enjoy human things like small talk and helping others
Haha, you comedian ❤️
These two are hilarious when they wrestle like this daily
Damn cat has the post poop zoomies
It’s like walking a couple hamsters
Woo, damn near done now.
Pomeranian?
Ya
You 3D printed all that food?!
Yea these bambus are crazy
My auntie has had a few lovely dogs ❤️
The hard part was printing the iron pipes holding the shelves up
No harm with any more microplastics inside us, at this point
I figure as soon as I hit the credit-card level of microplastics inside of me I can just tap my hand for payments
I am 3d printing hooks to hold up the pot lids though
I printed a lens hood for one of my outdoor security cameras yesterday
Getting washed out from the sun or protecting from rain?
Sun
Well, a bit of sun, plus fairy lights I was installing on that side of the house
It's actually not even an outdoor camera (Ubiquiti G3 Micro), but it's far enough under the soffit that it's lasted 2 years outside just fine
Where I started
With less wide angle lens
E46 or bust
I mean, they're cool, but the S54 has proven to be a pretty troublesome engine no?
Which resin was that?
Formlabs printer, just their standard black
This cartridge I forgot about in a cupboard and is past its best before date, hence printing random junk because it's gone goopy and isn't really up to fine detail
S54 is the M3 of that generation I believe
M54 I don't believe is too bad
Just go with the M43 anyway, a model not available in NA lol
Baby engine
Two runs through the 50µm paint strainer
Ah. I'm playing with urethane resins at the moment but expensive
Washing clothes is for suckers
Yeah it's the engine from my E30 with some external upgrades
I moved 'em out to my garage
I moved them to the other side of the wall on the left basically
Was close enough I could just reroute the existing hookups
It's the one my daily driver has
A 2000 BMW E46 318i
112,000kms (69,500mi)
I hung a couple shelves in the garage above the washer/dryer to hold things like soap and fabric softener and it freed up a room in my house. I'm redoing my kitchen next so I turned this into a kitchen pantry so I can still have storage while the kitchen cabinets are ripped out
But yeah my M42 had 250k mi on it and I could still track it
When I finally sold it I encouraged the buyer to take it to redline on the test drive to prove it was good
(I tried once with a DISA M42 E36 I was testing for someone else and it choked up at the DISA switch-over engine speed)
Those are huge 3D printers omg
Glad you found a smaller one
The heater on the right one takes like 5kw too
It's all worth it for iLO though
I'm very interested in smart watch Devlopment, I'm familiar with that the Garmins exit but I haven't looked into it.
I'm on the look out for a smart watch to do stuff like that with, I researched the Fitbit API documentation once throughly so I could help program a concept a community member had once, they were gonna test it since they had the hardware but they ended up switching to Samsung hardware which had the feture easily accessible and did the task better. So I never gave it a shot.
Recently I've been looking at the Pine Watch since it's open source. Sucks that the BPM sensor isn't accurate
@prisma briar it's beautiful (I'm finally getting everything stabilized after getting the additional unit hooked up)
I think the "Garage Lights" and "Laundry Room" are actually kitchen sink circuits running more than their names
it costs more to run my upstairs PC than the PTC heater in my 3d printer
posting in offtopic because it is not really directly related to the current voice assistants, I think. You know if the new language support needs to be added recording specific sentences and uploading somewhere, or can it be trained with public large models of recordings?
I'm sure I read about this in the past but my google-fu is faling me rn
Hey hey hey, the biggest single system I have has two 1200w psus
Luckily you're not in America. Wouldn't that be an entire house circuit there
I thought so too, but this guy I know in Texas uses just as much power as me
Also, running servers on 110v
What a shitshow
Running servers on 110v
Fixed that for you
220-240v better
Imagine if America used 220-240v, then I'm sure all the other countries on 110 would've swapped too. Voltage wouldn't have been a problem. Amazing
Why don't we go full metric and use a 1000V or 100V grid?
that's actually a good question
Where do the standard voltages come from historically? 🤔
yo could any1 help #analytics-archived message
Hm, quick Google search suggests that's simply what early generators generated
And then some countries went split phase, others 3phase generation
We already have metric time in HA, so let's metric all the things!
Metric is the superior measurements
Like, 3¼, what the fuck
Or awg, a reverse scale

At least NASA realised this
🤷 is Siemens or Ohm the reverse one?
Would you prefer 3.25
Thats metric 😛
Such a weird voltage that they generated. Seems random
3.25 inches does not end up in usable metric
We're not talking about what you have down there
😛
I'll have them know though, the Imperial spanners are great for rusty 25 year old worn down bolts
When 13mm is just slipping
1/2 is just right
31/32 is such a weirdo size
There's a reason you sometimes hear people refer to this as an "all-eighths spanner" 😆
I prefer "Swedish nut lathe", personally
George Washington (Nate Bargatze) tells his soldiers (Kenan Thompson, Mikey Day, Bowen Yang, James Austin Johnson) his dream for the country.
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Goo...
Is that an Oceania term? I've never heard that
I think "nut fucker" is probably the most Kiwi/Aussie term you'll find for it
They are commonly called Engländer (English person) here
such AI
My daughter found an interesting way to learn to read, she uses the type by mic on her tablet, and then she reads the word she just said
So she sees a word, then spells it out using the tablet mic, then makes it play the word?
No, she says the word, the tablet writes it, and then she reads the word
Both Norwegian and English work well
Not so loud
This can be sold to people as dedicated app
They won't suspect a thing
There's nothing stopping someone from running a 200A 240v circuit here if they have the service to power it.
And the know how
Average circuits are either 15A or 20A at 120v but it's all upgradable
The size of the service going to the home and the lack of know-how to do their own work are what hold most people back
My friend from texas said most houses have 200A main breakers there
might be a texas thing
Most newer houses everywhere do. I have 150A to my house from the 70s
most houses here are usually 3x40 for 3ph in, or 2x63 for 1ph in
But my parents only have 100A service
I saw a huge house, twice the size of mine once, that one had 3x80A
meanwhile we have new houses which can't be connected to the grid at all because there's no room
My power service comes out to 150A@240v
1ph 240v
Then the transformer has a center tap on the 240v winding that gives us our 120v reference
Does Europe actually use split phase for 230v?
I've never worked on 3 phase. Only apartments and businesses have that here
My parents have 3x64
Though I know people that have multiple 3x64 sockets 😂
What voltage is your three phase at in total? 230v between each phase?
I have 3x40a , it's an old house that was once a wood wheel workshop ...
And yes 230 between each phase
isnt it 230 to ground and 400ish between phases
That would be split phase
380 if the phases are combined
yea, 230 to neutral, 400 between the phases
There is no neutral
dunno which country you are from
But here (and afaik all of europe) has 230V to ground/neutral and 400V between the phases (120° shift)
Belgium
That's basically how our apartments are wired here except the voltages are halved
Huh, Belgium is listed for both 230V and 400V between phases
so likely older installations that aren't standardized
don't you usually have 2phase 180° shift?
That is one good thing about the US's power system, it was decided on and standardized pretty early so there's compatibility a long way back.
I could take an appliance made 100 years ago and, ignoring safety issues, could just plug it in and it'd work.
We did go from 110v to 220v in the 70s (I think)?for security reasons , it halves the amperage
there's more changes within the distribution than actual endpoints
i mean its also a significantly less old country
useful electricity is younger than the US so that's a weird argument to make
unless you had constant issues with wires burning, that makes no sense o.0
220v lets you use thinner wire and makes wiring a house cheaper
yea, but using it for safety is weird
less current should make the wires less hot
Which means you can make them thinner
Not you keep the same gauge and have more safety margin
also reduces electrical fields. But that's not really been an issue in home installations
that may depend on how the safety rulings are
it's easier to require thicker cables than make sure that people don't touch them though
It's the voltage that lets the amperage get to you
240v will go further down, for example, an accidentally electrified water pipe than 120v will
that's about as useful as it being the sudden deceleration that kills, not the speed
it's not wrong, but it's not a useful notion
welders do not be that harmless
water pipe should have close to 0 resistance, so that wouldn't make much of a difference. Especially if it's old and copper
Assuming the pipe is grounded right and doesn't have any plastic or low-conductive bits in the way like a sharkbite fitting
is that even still standard to use
i thought they were all those fancy hardtube plastics by now
My house still has copper, wouldn't surprise me if new houses were going all PEX
if it's grounded, gfci/RCD should make sure it's not energized for long either way^^
Only place I've seen new copper is outside rain traps
rich people houses
yea, we have one in front of the distribution panel^^
When I moved my washer/dryer I did copper, I wish I would have just rented a pex expander and done pex for it
Would've taken like 1/10th the time
my parents had to throw some old copper pipes out when they replaced some gutters
Because some other parts got replaced by something that would react with the copper o.0
I'm looking at running a hot water return line for a cycler and I was going to just run a pex tube through my crawlspace
galvanic corrosion is a big issue for copper
I was aware of that due to some computer water cooling drive by knowledge^^
It likes to be a sacrificial anode
Fun fact: A/C causes way less (virtually none) galvanic corrosion than D/C does so mixing aluminum and copper in a home electrical system doesn't really cause issues with it.
And that goop that 'deoxidizes and prevents corrosion' is most likely snake oil
🤷 just add a 1:1 transformer and separate them if you really need to
Or just get a connector rated to deal with how much aluminum expands when it gets hot
You can connect aluminum and copper with a butt splice or terminal block just fine
But if you use a wago or a wire nut you're going to have a bad time
(ignoring that one brand of wire nuts approved for aluminum that cost like $3/wire nut)
I think so. Shows up on ddg looking for terminal block
I meant more like
IMO aluminum should be screwed in on every end to the correct torque spec, it shouldn't ever have a spring like a wago or wire nut being the only thing holding it
Stuff like those became illegal here a few decades ago
You also don't have aluminum there to deal with, do you?

