the-workshop

[teal heath]

first thought: "they are reanimating the fingers of the people that died?" but no apparently that was not the meaning of the words...

[keen bone]

yeah but that still likely has the double conversion on the AC backup and etc.. 🤔

bah I should stop being lazy and just.. research what it'll take to make a pcb with a simple DC/DC UPS circuit and etc

[teal heath]

Ubiquiti make one specifically for it. but if you have one that takes a DC input you could definitely rig something

[keen bone]

I'm talking far more generic.. and not wanting to pay the ubiquiti upcharge on that shit when you can get used lifepo4 cells.. fairly easily

[teal heath]

oh yeah, their higher end stuff has a big price tag.

[keen bone]

thus why my new server is 24VDC UPS based (because I found a cheap industrial module that does it)

DC-ATX is easy

no double conversion (I think.. pretty sure at least)

[keen bone]

also just clicked that shit.. only 8 ports.. unifi. fucking really?

ridiculous.

even if it wasn't all poe.

c'mon now.. 😐

[teal heath]

how many "mission ciritcal" poe devices do you have? 😛

[keen bone]

i'd expect more in a 1000$ device.. 🤷‍♂️

[hexed meteor]

guys guys

my local computer shop gifted an i5 3230m

i am planing something big

with 2 core 4 threads lol

[teal heath]

they gave you some of their e-waste...

[hexed meteor]

lol

hey still does the job

[heady nexus]

Being a space heater that also happens to calculate things?

[keen bone]

you're planning nothing.

that thing isn't worth the ram cost it'll take to get it up.. 😛

[hexed meteor]

i have some ddr3 lying around

guys

trust me

[teal anchor]

Let's all trust 'TaxEvadeMaster'.... Yes that name clearly invokes trust.

[vast leaf]

Hi guys, are there any smart conversions for a Miele W1 washer/dryer combi instead of installing the official WiFi module?

[keen bone]

did it come up on google?

If not; then no.

welcome to brands. 🙃

[sour haven]

Im so sick of owning less and less each year and having nearly no say in it. I plan on rooting my roborock smart vacuum to replace it's cloud dependency. Once I do that I won't have any smart devices with any access to the internet.

Like why the hell does my robot vacuum require a connection to the cloud to function?

[heady nexus]

Because your usage data is somehow valuable to them

||Yes, it's stupid||

[wintry spire]

Hey, not sure where the right place is. I am currently building a mini addon that needs to be able to call the /api/alexa/smart_home endpoint. But I haven't fully figured out which API I need to enable for my addon? I've tried using the homeassistant_api and then try to call it via http://supervisor/core/api/alexa/smart_home but that does not seem to work as I am getting a 401 error. I am 100% sure I am sending the Authorization header with a correct long lived token (for testing purpose)

[hallow lance]

The dev channels might be the better place to ask. You can get access by self-assigning the Developer role in id:customize

[wintry spire]

Ok I try it there

[eternal surge]

Rule 4

@hazy crypt Do not spam, advertise your bots, servers, job hunting queries (looking for a job), or anything else. If you're not sure if something is an advertisement, contact a @Mod.

[hallow lance]

@hazy crypt Your message has been removed as it violated server rule 4.

[hazy crypt]

how to contact mod

[hallow lance]

I am a mod.

[heady nexus]

I am a mod.

[olive owl]

https://tenor.com/view/i-am-spartacus-its-me-crowd-stand-up-gif-16262914

[merry locust]

me also

[sharp pulsar]

How to reply to mod

[olive owl]

I reply

[hallow lance]

No, I reply

[trail fractal]

I'm
-# not
a mod

[olive owl]

not with that attitude

[trail fractal]

I am bad at formatting discord messages though

[heady nexus]

we are all mod on this blessed day

[olive owl]

https://tenor.com/view/festivus-miracle-seinfeld-kramer-gif-3820771295248189573

[trail fractal]

./kick .* Merry Christmas!

though really a solid sakick would be more amusing, but also I don't think irc commands support regex

[teal anchor]

Is this the airing of Grievances channel?

Where can I plug in my Festivus Pole?

[olive owl]

I gotta lotta problems with you guys!

[teal anchor]

It all starts with the mystery meter on the side of your house...

[shrewd lion]

Hi,
In what chat can i get help with the google assistant SDK setup. I'm following the manual but the authorization fails when it tries to query google while setting up
This is my authorized URL: https://my.home-assistant.io/redirect/oauth

[olive owl]

#1284966915055288530

#find-a-channel is the place to ask where to post

[west jackal]

Please let me know if this is the correct channel to ask this question: I have a QOLsys IQ4 panel that I'm trying to integrate into my HA setup. I used Liberty Security (they in turn used Alarm.com) to monitor my home. I've since moved on from them, but they refuse to provide the Installer or Dealer codes. The default codes (1111 and 2222 do not work). Does anyone know what the installer or dealer codes that Liberty Security may have set on my hardware are?
I am trying to gain access to all the sensors that I had installed along with this panel.

[teal anchor]

That might fit https://discord.com/channels/330944238910963714/1284966353798697001 here. I would ask here, hoiwever: https://community.home-assistant.io/c/third-party/15 @west jackal

[west jackal]

Thank you, I'll give that a shot

[haughty yarrow]

Hey guys, recently installed some Wiz recess ceiling lights that have motion sensors in them, I was looking into getting the motion sensors working in Home assistant however not seeing the sensor populate anyone have any ideas on this or if there's a way to pill it?

[sour haven]

Anyone have any thoughts on a voice assist satelite device using mono vs stereo mic input?

[teal anchor]

https://discord.com/channels/330944238910963714/1284966915055288530

[vast leaf]

Hi guys, I've got a holiday home where I go to, say 3 times a year. I don't want to spend a buttload of money as I won't use it that often. I'd like to be able to turn on the floor heating few days before I get there. It's an electric room temp based system without groundsensor and a few of those round turning knobs all around the house (230v/16A). Is it possible to replace those knobs with a smartswitch that can be used as stand alone "dumb" knob but can also talk through, say Z-wave or something else on a low frequency. Also, If I need an extra hub for that, what would you recommend me to get? I was hoping for something as cheap as a RPi Z2W running a headless HA if that were supported.

[teal anchor]

(Is it possible to replace those knobs with a smartswitch)
Yes

[vast leaf]

which smartswitch should I use?

[teal anchor]

Well to get into it much deeper it probably needs it's own thread in https://discord.com/channels/330944238910963714/1284966353798697001, but you need to find a switch that will take the load correctly, then place it in parallel with the existing switch. Then add something to sense room temperature and create a generic thermostat. Or that's what I would do.

[arctic widget]

So not sure if this would go here, but I am moving to a unifi network. I have a HA Green and looking at setting up vlans with my new network. I want to chat through it, but not sure where to ask the question.

[meager quail]

dude

[hallow lance]

Please do not tag everyone. Create a post in #1284966540617449515

[olive owl]

154,545 people

[eternal surge]

Rule 6

Do not @ mention or DM Moderators, Nabu Casa employees, Members, Integration owners, or any other community members who aren't part of the current conversation for any matter, unless you share a mutual relationship. The exception to this rule is if you are reporting something that violates these rules; please contact a @Mod to report any violations.

[arctic widget]

Thanks, this is my first ever post in any channel in the discord. I appreciate it! Was just trying to get some guidance.

[arctic widget]

This isn't very helpful. I understand this is the HA community, that is why I asked. This description of this channel seemed like it might be a good place to start. This is my first ever post in the discord.

[arctic widget]

also, not helpful

[meager quail]

You tried to message 145,000 people

[onyx ingot]

Still a work in progress as we need to order some more cables to button it up a bit more but here's a before and after the mini rack. 🙂
(if this is the wrong place let me know and I'll remove)

[teal anchor]

Looks good but I would stretch your ZBT-1 and ZWA-2 farther away from the computer for better reception.

[onyx ingot]

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind and see what I can do.

[inner portal]

Maybe its a long shot but does anybody has any experience with a MKS DLC32 control board with TMC2209 drivers? I have troubles setting up good speeds and steps/mm on my 3018 CNC machine.

[teal anchor]

Maybe its a long shot
https://www.lionsgate.com/movies/long-shot

[old pike]

<https://www.lionsgate.com/movies/long-

[sour haven]

@jolly oar niceeee, isn't it nice when things actually work the way they are supposed to. finally got my voice assistant satelite working correctly after weeks of troubleshooting every aspects of it almost.

[jolly oar]

haha yea im not quite there yet. for now ill stick with some more manageable projects. my dad gets super annoyed when i leave the door open so my next project is some zigbee sensors and an automation that switches the input on the reciever to the chromecast, then ha casts an image saying "CLOSE THE DOOR" to the screen

if the door is open for more than a minute it'll bug me

[old pike]

best feeling in the world 🙂

[sour haven]

I somehow keep drawing myself into software projects which I don't care for nearly as much as hardware. Been fighting to get piper voice training to work correctly and finally got it going. hopefully it turns out decent.

[jagged harness]

Would a smart plug that only monitors energy and doesn't even have the hardware to switch it on/off be inherently safer?

I want to say yes, because it's simpler. But it's just a relay. If you can mess up "connect this pin to this pin" bad enough to start a fire, you can probably make anything dangerous.

Every smart plug has a few reviews where it caught fire or melted, so I'm never sure if that's a quality thing or a "idiot plugged 5 hair driers into a single power strip and turned all on at once" type of scenario

[boreal onyx]

Not necessarily. The Shelly (PM Mini, and friends) ones for instance use a current shunt for monitoring rather than an CT clamp (non-contact inductive) sensor, so all potentially 3.8kW is going through one component on the PCB

That design is pretty common. If you need 100% safety (or at least, no less safety than just plugging the appliance into the wall) you want a CT clamp around the phase wire

[jagged harness]

For my case, I wouldn't be plugging stuff in that uses a ton of power. Like all of my power hungry stuff uses outlets on the same 20A circuit, and I've never had it flip. So I doubt anything even approaches 10A.
I just kinda want a lot (like 10) energy monitoring outlets and don't care about them being able to switch. So I don't want to shell out a fortune for that

My apartment has suspiciously high electricity usage, and I cannot figure out why. I had my hvac off for a whole month, and that only brought my bill down by $50. If my gaming PC, 3D printer, and server were using peak power at all times, that would cost me $50/month too.
My total electricity bill is between $250-$300 each month for my 1 bedroom apartment.

[teal heath]

I would tend to say yes as it removes the relay as a point of failure.
also means you dont have to worry about inductive loads so much.

[teal heath]

yeah, misuse is probably the most common cause of this (but not all the time) most of the time its people putting inductive loads on stuff with relays which then arc.

Athom Make some esphome (or tasmota) based wifi plugs without a relay.

[keen bone]

I mean.. having the relay always-on would also soolve the problem... but yeah

and shelly has trhe new.. ogemray 25a/240v one.

6000w boi

[naive flume]

anyone have any suggestions for motorized TDBU shades? (black out cellular style, 3/4 double)

I have found the following but not sure about the brands, and it doesn't' appear Lutron has any. And can integrate with HASS?

Veneta (these look nice): https://www.venetawindowfashions.com/clearfit/
Yoolax: https://tinyurl.com/3ct4am42
Graber (can't seem to find them online to purchase): https://tinyurl.com/mtutd7uf

[naive flume]

sorry removed the embedding, thats annoying lol

[lime cape]

My wife and I just installed Hunter Douglas curtains in our family room. I purchased thier gateway as well so I can use the Hunter Douglas integration in HASS and it works exactly how I need it to for automations. The downside, these tend to be very pricey.

[thorn ore]

These are garbage: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/norman-tdbu-blind-control/705405 go with Hunter Douglas.

[jagged harness]

Noticed my garbage disposal is always on when plugged in and the button just toggles a plug.
Can I just use any normal smart plug to toggle it? I know motors can have a big startup current spike, so I'm wondering if I need to consider that.

The button for the disposal is in the round sink hole next to the faucet. So I could use that for other stuff if I can use a different method to turn the disposal on and off

[olive owl]

I sure wouldn't try to automate a garbage disposal

[jagged harness]

It would just be for this and not really automation

[olive owl]

I still wouldn't rely on it to not start at a bad time

Plugs also usually have a max current draw and might just trip on startup

[jagged harness]

And that button is connected to the plug with a clear tube that lacks any wiring. So it seems to use pressure.
I wasn't considering modifying the plug/button to fake pressing it, but that doesn't even sound possible without ripping apart the plug (which is my apartment's property)

[olive owl]

That's the one completely manual device in my house

[raven sage]

Separate from whether you should automate that or not... There's a few smart plugs or relays out there which provide power ratings for inductive devices/motors, but the ratings are normally much, much lower than the resistive rating load. E.g. the IKEA TRETAKT (north america version) is 1800W resistive, but only 300W motor.

[olive owl]

I have a ThirdReality plug that handles my washer and dryer (gas) and it will occasionally trip. I don't think it's dangerous, just annoying. This one is reliable enough for my needs

[raven sage]

the issue is that attempting to interrupt the current while an AC motor is running could cause arcing internally in the relay. at best it'll shorten the lifespan of the relay contacts, at worst it could damage the device or start a fire :(

[elfin raven]

hey people

i'm just wondering who has some blueprints for llm voice assistants

[olive owl]

I don't know what a blueprint would look like for that, but try #1284966915055288530

[hallow lance]

Or the blueprint exchange on the HA forums.

[olive owl]

Or that. I don't use any blueprints 🙂

[tall timber]

Electronics and firmware done! Just need 3d printed brackets and documentation, and the rust-based mqtt window blind motor is done!

[forest notch]

Esp32 c3 I setup to trigger my garage door opener!
Beats paying $20+ for a Shelly per door

[jolly oar]

ltt vibes

[sour haven]

I just did the same thing with a pi pico and my garage door opener. I need to add a ultrasonic sensor to it to be my contact sensor and reprint the box out of stronger material and mount it up.

[forest notch]

I didn’t know they did this haha, I just started probing with a multi meter on the buttons and realized it was too easy

[sour haven]

and all of these companies act like it is the hardest thing in the world to do and that why you need to pay for their subscription in order to do it

[plush gull]

https://twittpr.com/sendcutsend/status/2011193240465391983

sendcutsend (@sendcutsend)

Machining “The Part”: A Short Film

**💬 9 🔁 23 ❤️ 175 👁️ 2.6K **

▶ Play video

FxTwitter · Jan 13, 2026, 9:46 PM

[jolly oar]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7pSkVarixU

[slow sphinx]

Made a game event driven light control (When you whip extinguish the candle/torch it turns the HA light off 😁 )

[distant sequoia]

GM, quick question, what does the exclamation point with a V next to a sequence stands for?

I can't find any errors or anything.

[olive owl]

Where?

[woeful solstice]

That’s not a V but a checkmark and most likely the icon for “continue_on_error: true” set in the yaml.

[olive owl]

Please use a support channel for this sort of thing

[jolly oar]

hey guys, im thinking about manufacturing a variety of smart home devices that are basically just blanks in terms of firmware.

plugs, swtiches, bulbs, sensors all with a usbc port on them so you can flash your own firmware. would this be something worth doing do you think?

would any of you find interest in that or is the current market well off

[heady nexus]

Interesting idea for sure, but I'm not sure if that has much of an advantage over devices preflashed with Tasmota or ESPHome

[keen bone]

yeh... you can already do this with shelly devices more or less (not a usbc port but still)

[jolly oar]

this idea came from me wanting to control my bulbs with ma3 over sacn or artnet lol

ill get a few demo units on their way and share here in the near future hopefully

[keen bone]

I mean... bulb stuff is.. like.. most people are not gonna stick non-certified bulbs in their houses when certified and rated stuff exists

even govee has matter-over-wifi shit these days that you can use to cut them out..

[teal heath]

one of the big issues you will have with that approach is that most mains IoT devices do not have full separation of the ac/dc. and the gpio pins of the esp are referenced to AC neutral. making them dangerous. could you make something with full separation? probably but your bom costs will be higher and will be harder to physically fit components. a sealed unit with esphome/tasmota thats open to bee flashed to something else ota is better. or even if an "advanced user" opens up and is aware of the risk to flash manfully its fine. but having pins/ports available directly to outside means you need proper seperation or its just super dangerous.

[keen bone]

or having it in such a way that it cannot be connected to mains when you're using it over usb.

[teal heath]

even if you put a warning "only plug into usb port when disconnected from mains to flash" someone will plug the phone into it and kill themselves.

[teal heath]

like some kind of physical disconnect that is pushed out when usb cable inserted or something?

[keen bone]

this is all shelly gives you.. 🤣

[teal heath]

maybe you could put the usb port on the prongs side of the plug i guess. "apple mouse style"

[keen bone]

🤣

it'd have to be like.. between the prongs

or someoone will use a shit extension to get around that

and maybe end up blowing up something on their PC. 😄

[teal heath]

yeah exact setup would vary depending on plug type

for a uk plug you cold maybe have a folding earth pin and when its folded down the usb port is uncovered somehow. because without the earth pin in place you cant plug it in.

although i am not sure on how that would go in the way of regs.

[keen bone]

or.

... just use a shelly

like.. really.. its not worth it.

if you sell products that aren't certified in soome manner.. and that shit burns someones house down..

[teal heath]

yeah

[keen bone]

if you're not boeing you'll probably get issues.

[teal heath]

or just use ESPHome devices with ESPHome. i cant think of anything i would want to do custom on those kind of devices that I could do with ESPHome 😛

or a shelly with ESPHome if you want to mix and match.

[keen bone]

yeah; going near mains high voltage with DIY stuff is..

I try and avoid it as much as I can

and if I have to touch HV mains.. I tend to try and use brand components or etc only..

[teal heath]

yup, mains power must be respected otherwise you end up dead. unless you know the people you are selling to will respect it then some of them will end up dead.

[keen bone]

the little board I have recently begun finalizing.. is technically touching mains.. ish..

its 24VAC... so not really mains

but still annoying.

fused and such.. but annoying.. as I had assumed the goddamn HVAC was not ground referencing the 24VAC

I was wrong. 😄 antenna touched a metal thing and popped a fuse on my first testboard

if I make a v3 of the board.. it'll likely add a small transformer to float my DC stuff off the goddamned VAC

but hey.. benefits of remembering to include a replacable fuse 😄

[teal heath]

gotta try to protect the magic smoke

[keen bone]

or maybe a PTC next time..

but those can get spicy.. and I do use 138c solder..

[swift ginkgo]

Anybody know how to make my lights in my room change color when formula 1 flags are put out?

Ive created the scenes but not sure how to do it with the plugin

[thorn ore]

#1284980040940912641

[royal charm]

thats so cool

what protocol?

[vernal sigil]

can I ask if people were starting from scratch today, would you go all thread+matter, all zigbee or some kind of mix? I have a pretty nonexistent fresh setup, just HA running in docker on my old intel NUC, thinking about getting some kind of antenna and a couple lightbulbs to start, maybe some fun sensors for automation, maybe try to control stuff from my google home, maybe throw in a gateway for the plejd system I have in the walls

looking at the new IKEA matter bulbs, and immediately got stuck in a deep dive comparing ZBT-2 with SLZB-MR1

[raven sage]

There's been a a bunch of people who've asked that before over in #1284966353798697001 and #1284966617670881350 - might want to take a look through posts there.

note that running the thread radio (RCP) over a network connection when using home assistant OTBR add-on is not currently recommended (the protocol is timing sensitive, and people have run into instability issues)

[teal anchor]

Want my opinion? Run this search and read about matter / thread. Looks like a horror show to me, honestly.
I don't see it improving yet but there is hope.
https://community.home-assistant.io/c/configuration/matter-thread/59

[raven sage]

I've personally got both zigbee and thread, but i'm moving everything to thread over time. Except for some issues with Nanoleaf devices with broken early firmware it's been very stable for me, and Matter has standardized a bunch of stuff that used to be all vendor-specific extensions in Zigbee.

[vale lake]

I'll go with ZigBee. It's working now. Matter is some kind of maybe in a lot of devices.

[teal heath]

Don't Crosspost.

[hasty heath]

What?

[eternal surge]

Rule 7

@hasty heath Use the correct channels or threads for your messages. If there's a better place for the current conversation then use it, and don't post or link to the same thing in multiple places. Also check the description in each channel before posting, as extended rules may exist for that channel.

[hasty heath]

where i can ask that question then? Mb btw

[teal heath]

you already posted in the support channels, sometimes it takes time for someone with a suggestion to post.

[hasty heath]

okk k

And again Im sorry

Do i delete the message?

[teal heath]

Can do.

[hasty heath]

okk

[trail fractal]

I still don't have matter, and prefer zwave where I can get it

Lol

[vernal sigil]

what kind of matter/thread setup do you have? both hardware and software wise

I guess the main question for me to start is whether to have HA ”own” the matter items or whether to get some commercial or other external matter hub / thread border router and connect the bulbs and jazz to that and then over to HA. I’m running HA in a docker container on Ubuntu, not HAOS, so if I’m understanding right that means right off the bat anything with addons such as OTBR is at best unsupported or at worst impossible, hmm.

not 100% sure what you mean by over the network, are you basically saying that if I get a thread radio (dongle or what have you), it should be physically connected to the machine running my thread border router container, and if not, I can run into timing issues? that’s fine, I plan on connecting any radios directly to my NUC, it sits almost perfectly centered in my apartment, so should be good!

[vernal sigil]

ouch, yeah that is the type of discussions I stumbled over on reddit too. thread + matter seems all at once to be the shining beacon of the future and not quite yet ready for primetime

[thorn ore]

Please use the #1284966617670881350 channel for discussion about this.

[vernal sigil]

sorry about that, just tried to go with the directions I got earlier

[slow sphinx]

Anything you want but it's currently just using ESPHome's ability to utilize HA's API

The game is wrapped on top of ESPHome.

[royal charm]

I mean is it zigbee/wifi?

[teal heath]

<@&330946878646517761>

[sly ether]

[slow sphinx]

Zigbee is not solid in ESPHome yet. It is wifi.

But there is no limitations. Use what you need.

[real star]

Since when did Tuya start requiring sellers to falsely mark ZigBee devices as not compatible with HA? lmfao

[teal heath]

its probably a combination of: sellers not wanting to answer questions about HA and also tuya wanting to keep people connecting to their servers.

[real star]

yea probably
Although I’ve been noticing tons of Tuya ZigBee sensors marketing HA compatibility directly on their boxes lately

Wouldn’t be surprised if they just want everyone connected to their cloud
Considering their official HA integration is also cloud only

[merry locust]

They should rather state that they don't support it and that Z2M has its own community support.

[heady nexus]

Yeah telling people to not buy their shit is a strange choice lol

[hardy fulcrum]

not sure how many codes this violates, i'll call it super safe enough

only thing i'd like to do at some point is reprint all my fixed installation printed parts in V0 fire retardant filament

[teal heath]

those gpio pins are likely referenced to mains and are exposed so its probably pretty dangerous to handle when powered.

[hardy fulcrum]

Yes. I wouldn't wanna work in there while it's powered

[meager quail]

I’d at least insulate the bare wires with some hot glue at the very very least

[mild grove]

https://giphy.com/gifs/trump-consequences-NTur7XlVDUdqM

[keen bone]

.... also current limiting resistors would really not be a bad idea there given that the keyboard switches aren't rated for the high voltage

[hardy fulcrum]

that should be fine? they may be referenced to mains but they only ever experience 3.3V from the DCDC onboard

i agree about insulation for the back sides of the switches tho. I'll figure out a way for that, maybe redesign my mounting solution slightly to incorporate a printed shield on the backside. Alternatively, some liquid electical tape would also probably be a reasonably elegant solution

[keen bone]

usually those switches are full mains potential last I checked.. at least on the shelly.. 🤷‍♂️

[hardy fulcrum]

Have a look at my wiring. It's an esp32 c3 powered by the ACDC circuit of a relay unit that then has the switches on jt

[keen bone]

I tried not to look too closely; the jank that close to mains hurt my soul.

[hardy fulcrum]

Well, it helps to know what's going on to determine jank levels^^

Thanks for the input anyways, I have a few ideas on how to improve it

[keen bone]

https://www.amazon.com/Shelly-controller-Automation-Compatible-Multi-Click/dp/B0D9JPDVN1

one of these, paired with their wall button thing..?

[hardy fulcrum]

I don't like the commercially available button units

In the end my goal is to just design my own board to take ac and run an esp from that in the form factor to fit a wall box

[keen bone]

well then you get to be on the line if a fire starts.. 🤷‍♂️

thus why I tend to lean on shelly and etc when around mains.. because certified devices and etc vs my jank

[hardy fulcrum]

that's fair^^

it's a hard balance. There's no real device that does what i want sadly

[keen bone]

also likely illegal in most places to hardwire jank devices into mains.

[hardy fulcrum]

ah on that btw. I use all sonoff. They just wire a GPIO out to a screw terminal + a low voltage ground terminal for the switch

the only sonoff i use that doesn't have that is the dual relais one, that one wants L on it's switch input (for which i of course used rated switches)

[sweet trellis]

Screw terminals on Shelly and some other small relays gives me some pause tbh. I’m debating between a few different ones right now and leaning towards a zooz model because it’s got pigtails

[teal heath]

what's the issue with screw terminals?

[sweet trellis]

Lot of wire bending when shoving the relay in the box

[hardy fulcrum]

But that's fine with solid core wire? Or are you planning on swapping your relays daily

[sweet trellis]

Nah that’s fair. Just a pain

Also I’ve been installing sconces and can’t figure out how I would screw the leads in while holding the fixture in the air. Easier to snap a wago with one hand

[teal heath]

Ferrule the ends for more robustness.

[hardy fulcrum]

That's fair... For some installs I've used multistrand wire and ferruled one end and put wagos on the other

To then connect to regular solid core

[sweet trellis]

Hmm I could think about getting a ferrule crimper

[teal heath]

It is a worthwhile investment tbh. It comes in handy.

[sweet trellis]

The magical wago “media converters” were a game changer for me with stranded to solid connections haha

[sweet trellis]

Oh wait the Shelly gen4 isn’t ETL or UL registered yet? Dang it

And it’s apparently irrelevant because I forgot this particular sconce has no neutral at the fixture or switch. Instead there’s a mysterious round lighting box-sized patch further up the wall that probably covers a hidden junction box

I’m getting flashbacks of attempting to use a wire toner to figure out where the branch circuit hides for some exterior lighting that would benefit greatly from a smart module. Still haven’t figured that one out either. Grumble grumble

[teal heath]

Surely there has to be a neutral at the light fixture?

if not I would love to see a wiring diagram...

[hardy fulcrum]

heh, i've had similar issues in my old house wiring. Junction box with uh... wild connections, A blue live wire that i didn't idenfity as one at first and a lot of headaches.

[sweet trellis]

Single romex at the switch with two conductors plus ground. Light box has two conductors flopping in the breeze coming down from somewhere, not a romex bundle. The “ground” at the fixture is something you’d see in a light fixture with crimped on circle and not a proper beefy wire. I should have taken a picture when I took it down earlier…

[teal heath]

well the 2 conductors are live and neutral. I imagine there is a box somewhere that diverts the live through the switch to return as a switched live. then from that you have a the cable to the switch which will be the switched live and a neutral.

find where that connect is and you will have all the connections you need.

[sweet trellis]

Yeah by “no neutral” I meant I don’t have an unswitched live and neutral in a single spot. That was my assumed wiring arrangement and assumed hidden junction box where the relay would need to go

[raven sage]

there doesn't necessarily need to be a hidden junction box, in some places there might just be single-conductor wires being used :(

[teal heath]

There still must be a connection somewhere be it in a box or not.

[sweet trellis]

I will not get spousal approval to go digging for that junction, so it might be time to look at no-neutral options

Or keep using the physical switch like an animal

[raven sage]

if you're lucky, there might be connections for a switch loop in the ceiling right above the light.

[teal heath]

This, I would be surprised if it is not close to the light fitting.

[sweet trellis]

It’s probably 9 inches away in that mystery patch

This used to be the back wall of the house so I bet they moved a fixture down but did a hack job with the wiring. They broke off the strain relief tab in the box too so the wires are just flapping in the breeze

[teal heath]

Yeah, that sounds like a likely possibility.

[keen bone]

time to get a gun and hunt whoever buried a junction box.

[mild grove]

Murder is illegal

[keen bone]

so should shitty tradespeople/handymen be..

[sweet trellis]

New curse: “May you have hidden junction boxes”

Contractor at my old house tried to hide a box when we were moving switches around. Thankfully I caught them before the walls were covered. You’re welcome current homeowner.

[keen bone]

working for a guy I work for.. I've seen so many fucking crimes of trades in his house

I joked that his electrician really must've hated white people because that motherfucker never put neutrals anywhere you want them

and whoever did his thermostat wires.. oh boy fun

blind splices and such inside walls to hard-wire back to the boiler instead of everything terminating together at the air handler to make it.. easy

[sweet trellis]

Crimes against electricity

[keen bone]

yup.

[sweet trellis]

I swapped the ceiling fan in my wife’s home office a couple years ago. Wrong box for a fan, and held up with drywall screws

[keen bone]

also he has a big house

it has.. 3 breakers in the basement

not putting sub-panels closer to where shit would be needed to be easier... nope

and.. none of them were labeled at all

[sweet trellis]

I was swapping 3 kitchen lights out one at a time and have been thinking about smart dimmers so it can be bright for cooking and dim for bedtime etc. Both three way switches are dead end with a traveler; annoying but ok. Power must be at one of the fixtures.

Middle fixture today was the final one…. No traveler?!? Now I need to take all three down again to figure out what they did

[keen bone]

most of the fixtures in his house have those.. dumb fucking "low voltage" bulbs so each has a transformer in the ceiling box that can't really be accesed from below.. fun 😄

[boreal onyx]

Ah yes, the component that frequently fails but is a colossal ballache to access, and depending on its age might misbehave if not given exactly the wattage of bulb it was designed for

Aren't those fun

[keen bone]

yep. pieces of shit

And just got a text that his roofs leaking somewhere.. so attic crawling tomorrow with the thermal camera I go

[hardy fulcrum]

i have a few behind wallpaper

🙁

[tropic cypress]

might use fish tape / draw wire to insert and a second person who can track it using ears. when junctionbox is reached you'll hear it. mostly...

or put a load on the wires and use thermal cam

[mild grove]

https://youtu.be/Afa6j5huFPY

[sweet trellis]

Wall box that doesn’t clear the wall, ground connection held on by hopes and dreams. If this is a junction I can see, I’m not sure I want to know what’s in the hidden one

[meager quail]

Oh this is good to know about

[mild grove]

I think the hookup did something similar but I would really like to do this with the dog, when it's gross out vs the front door that opens to carpet

Annoying how bulky the locks are but may work at the top of my door. He also did his front door though

[hardy fulcrum]

dear god

okay i'll be a lot less negative about the wiring at my place from now on

[sour haven]

my alexa replacement is finally coming along.

[blazing hare]

Needs more rgb

[blazing hare]

Stupid question for y'all
What's the best way to remote detect glass marbles?
Context - my granddad had a "3D tic tac toe" board - 3 layers of acrylic with a 3x3 grid of holes and you put coloured marbles in for O/X - winner is the one with the most number of 3 in a row when the grid is full. My granddad died and one of the other cousins took it leaving my sister rather upset. I'm making her a new one but started thinking it'd be kinda cool if it had a little arduino chip in there that could work out who won (as counting them can be a little confusing at the end).
At the moment, I'm thinking a little camera positioned at the right angle in the base would be able to see all 27 locations well enough to tell the colour, but open to other suggestions. Was also considering marbles/oversized ball bearings to do it with capacitance sensors but that's a right faff.

[olive owl]

I was thinking about individual light sensors, but no idea what that would cost and would depend on what the marbles look like

[safe knot]

Hi, I’m looking for a DIN-rail mounted power supply with a 230 V AC input and a 3.3 V DC output rated at at least 2 A. Can you help me?

[vivid lantern]

I have looked around and can't find any recent information on it but has anyone figured out a reliable way to track when you're pulling up to your house that will cause your garage door to open? I have ratgdo and have been using zones connected to my iphone but it's not super reliable. I have to remember to have HA opened on the phone and then there are still some missed openings.

[keen bone]

sounds like iphone being iphone and not fucking letting HA run properly. 😉

[vivid lantern]

Correct haha! Got any good alternative solutions I can look into that you've tested?

[keen bone]

I don't use iphones. 😄

bluetooth beaconing/Trilateration

[mild grove]

Best

[teal heath]

mini rack power supply side got the big boy unifi 54v 210w adaptor added. actually have the first switch in the WIP rack now so can PoE stuff.

[potent coral]

I finally got around to building my first ESPHome project. I wanted to convert a USB lamp my wife and I used for our wedding to be controlled by HA. I was careful to disassemble it and maintain all the original electronics (in case I screwed something up ). It's not 100% complete but it works! (ignore the man ESP32 behind the curtain, I need to design a 3d printed enclosure for it to go in the base of the lamp.)

[keen bone]

"i am a full slop developer!"

Slash bot.

Who can't read.

[blazing hare]

Wut?

[hallow lance]

https://tenor.com/view/star-wars-gif-10807669030885108521

[blazing hare]

Clamps

[olive owl]

https://tenor.com/view/futurama-robot-mafia-mafia-clamps-gangsters-gif-13569434282143897613

[sour haven]

Just waiting on one final part for the alexa clone and then just little tweaks. Plan on wrapping the side and top parts in a fabric to hide the speaker slots and the mics and led on top but allow all of those to work correctly. Plus to just give it a nice look I thought it might be cool.

[olive owl]

And it won't have Alexa+, which is itself a plus

[sour haven]

I cannot stand alexa plus. mine will definitely not talk as much. plus when it does talk it'll sound like benedict cumberbatch which I think is a plus. or at least better.

[ionic solstice]

Esp32 with 3d printed case installed in my Heat pump with this open source software

[sour haven]

Anyone tried this new matter thermostat. Been waiting for a good wifi based local thermostat to replace my dumb one and currently looks like the best/only option outside of zigbee/z wave

[blazing hare]

Are you looking for temperature sensing or a thermostat?
I personally prefer a simple sensor and then keeping control on home assistant's end

[thorn ore]

I'd advise the opposite. Use a hardware thermostat that home assistant can monitor and set. There are countless examples of people using home assistant as the controller coming home to either an icy or burning hell when things go wrong.

As for that particular one, search #1284966353798697001 and post there if you don't find anything.

[blazing hare]

In fairness, I actually sit somewhere between the two. The relay turning the boiler on has a temperature sensor with an override to keep things between 10 and 30 in at least one room, but general control is home assistant - individual temperature sensors and trvs in each room and ha turns the boiler on if any trv is trying to heat

The only time it's gone out of control was when I set it up and connected NO rather than NC. But that's definitely wetware error

[sour haven]

Looking to definitely have a thermostat that home assistant can control. I have a dumb one and im tired of switching back and forth between heat and cool. Just been waiting for a decent one that is all local and not stupidly priced. So yeah one that can operate independently but just also be abke to control it from within my dashboard.

[next shore]

I've been looking at that one but based on what I read you need their App to do the Initial Set up then you can do the Matter setup. The other local one I see on Amazon is the Lux TQ1 / TQX

[sour haven]

that would be fine, I don't mind having to use an app for the set up really just as long as afterwards and I just manage it all in home assistant after. Well cool that sounds good then I may have to try it.

[blazing hare]

Little bit of midnight soldering.

[teal heath]

It is never a bad time to shift a logic level 😛

[olive owl]

solder joint lit only by the light of the soldering iron

I guess you could weld in complete darkness 🙂

[blazing hare]

That's what I said, but when I wake my partner up to ask to borrow some nail polish for conformal coating, suddenly i'm the arsehole

[teal heath]

I think you might have to take the L on that one... Pick your battles...

[blazing hare]

heh

Going to try this arrangement for the 2nd one, bit longer but much easier access to the output wires which need to be a bit more robust

But that's a tomorrow problem

[blazing hare]

Progress.

[vale lake]

What is this for? 🙂

[blazing hare]

Esphome modules for my AC units - it's my last cloud integration (excluding solcast and weather) to bring local

[teal anchor]

Make one for my generator, since Generac has buried their API into a hidden nest of obfuscations. It's under warranty and service contract, so I can't really do much I guess.

[blazing hare]

yeah - luckily these are on a plug so i can just take them back out whenever they come round to service them 😛

[keen bone]

I mean.. i presume its just acting as another controller so.. no real need to do that?

[blazing hare]

it plugs in behind the "no touchy" panel so i think they'd be a little leery about it

[keen bone]

they aren't going to look; that isn't involving the service

service is just.. cleaning coils and checking filter stuff; and maybe testing compressor side stuff.

[blazing hare]

shrugs

[keen bone]

or if you're my neighbor from down the raod.

having the refridgerant refilled again because the installer is a sub-sapient fuckwit.

😄

(i think its a multi-ton unit with.. like.. five or six sub-unit heads? jesus fucking christ the amount of R454B is insane)

[blazing hare]

yeesh

[keen bone]

yeeeeaeh... she said the installed did it off-normal-company install hours..

I'm not an HVAC professional but uhhh.. I installed my own heatpump without leaks on my first try?

.... so like.. I'd expect a professional to eat shit less?

esp given that I think its like.. 1000-1500$

to refill that unit at current market prices of the refridgerant..

[blazing hare]

wow

[keen bone]

tfw what happens when they phase out the old refridgerant before the replacement has been spooled up sufficiently to take the place.

[blazing hare]

yeah, great plan

[keen bone]

... but even greater plan is clearly not having fucking properly pressure-tested the lines before releasing refridgerant

ffs. If it wasn't freezing out still i'd offer to grab the tools and go testing leaks myself.

[teal heath]

Been having some troubles with my shitty BT proxy devices... decided to finally work on replacing them. I suspect this will see a pretty nice improvement. 🙂
Old vs New:

[sweet trellis]

I could make a joke about compensating, but the only esphome node that can see my attic fan over ble isn’t the one I want to connect it to…

Ugh, and the usb hub connecting an old SBC to its UPS and 433 mhz antenna decided to disconnect because I had the audacity to do something next to it

That might accelerate my plans to build an esp 433 mhz receiver

[keen bone]

not very hard tbh.

https://www.printables.com/model/796688-espsomfy-rts-case

if you have a 3d printer here's a case.. 😄

[vale lake]

I use a cheap ESP32-WROOM-32 with ESPHome and the default BT proxy program. Works perfect, with a phone charger

And I need to print a case, I have the printer but not the time 😅

[sweet trellis]

I have neither printer nor time 😞

[jagged harness]

Why I wish the esp32 was 5V tolerant.

[blazing hare]

You know you can get a level shifter for like.. 10p right?

[jagged harness]

I know those exist, but I haven't seen them for under $5 before

Also, this project slowly escalated from needing 1 voltage divider to 6. When it was just 1, using the board didn't sound worth it. And I never really reconsidered after increasing what I wanted to read

[blazing hare]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005984772131.html

That's the basic option, there are 8 way ones quite commonly too and they're like 80p

[blazing hare]

Fair. Scope creep is a bitch

[jagged harness]

I'm using this to read outputs from another MCU that has internal pullup resistors (to 5V)
And the one with the transistor is to pull one of those from 5V to 0V (to fake a button press)
Would that setup interfere with those at all? Like I could imagine they may have pull down resistors or something else that messes with it.

[blazing hare]

SN74AHCT125N is also pretty solid for level shifting

It shouldn't do, I've used them with 5v pull ups no issue

[jagged harness]

I wonder if there are any esp32 shields that give 5V tolerant pins, or even higher voltage
For espHome stuff, like when I'm modifying and existing thing, I've encountered these scenarios a lot

I have just used the 5V stuff with a esp32 without any protection. And it worked for a few months before it broke. But it's not officially stated that esp32s can or can't handle 5V. So I can imagine the fragility of that changing between models or even batches

[blazing hare]

Esp32 don't really have a shield ecosystem like that sadly

[jagged harness]

Pimoroni makes what they call a "shim" for their pi pico boards. They've just shields but lower profile. The pcbs are a llot thinner than normal ones. I could see them doing it sometime.

They're also the only company I've seen make rp2040 and rp2350 boards that use the same wireless chip as official pico Ws.
And they make some boards that'd be cool for espHome, which supports the rp2040 and rp2350 now (but only with the official rm2 module)
This one just has an official pico W soldered on. But their newer stuff just has a rp2040/rp2350 and wireless module soldered on.
I think they're the only place you can get a drop in replacement for a pico W that uses usb c

[blazing hare]

Yeah, there are some options, but it's much rarer than pi hats and arduino shields. I think mostly because the io is so different between different esp versions and manufacturers

[olive owl]

I had to convert a signal from 5v to 3v and started to do the resistor thing and then found the ultra cheap, ultra small level converters from Ali

Actually it was Amazon. $7.49 for 10: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7W91LC

[sweet trellis]

I've used SN74AHCT125N for wled. ESP32 driving 12V addressable led strip

[teal heath]

I put my new one together using the XIAO ESP32C3 board and used THIS 3d print.
I actually have put 6 of them together and flashed them with the ESPHome BT proxy firmware. I am just waiting on some adaptors from AE before deploying them.

So. It seems that my problem with old ones was probably related to THIS. To be fair I have wanted to update my proxies anyway so not really a loss working on replacing them.

[sweet trellis]

Hmm, maybe that’s why my attic fan connection died suddenly after a few days working fine

I also suspect the attic fan controller froze up from polling too frequently

[teal heath]

How often are you polling it?

[sweet trellis]

I’ll have to check the code again. It was from a PR on a fork of a fork reverse engineering the controller’s ble api

I originally had a different library running in Python on a pi zero, but stupidly updated the controller firmware due to app updates and they radically changed it. This was an esphome port and update

[dire pecan]

https://tenor.com/view/spider-man-gif-1760452691448589843

[sour haven]

Finally got my alexa close all back together and finally just doing the finishing touches.

[blazing hare]

What's the outside? Fabric spread over a 3d printed grill?

[sour haven]

You called it exactly.

Easy way to hide the speaker and mic grills while making it look pretty good I think.

Plus you can do extra parts with different fabrics and stuff and change how it looks. Pretty much all of the visible parts are fairly easy to interchange and everything.

Side parts are all magnetic

And the top cover on top of the leds and mics

[blazing hare]

Yeah it's nice, what fabric is it?

[sour haven]

Just some generic stuff I found at the store that I thought looked good and was light and breathable.

[blazing hare]

Fair

[teal heath]

mini rack is slowly coming along.

[blazing hare]

Cute

[sour haven]

Looks good

[exotic salmon]

i ❤️ cable binds

[hexed pier]

Is it all printed?

[sly cairn]

Not as impressive but I finally figured out how the feeding calls work on this darn camera cat feeder so I can cloud cut it

[blazing hare]

Localising is always worthy of praise, so nicely done!

[sly cairn]

Not there yet haha the camera part for these Anyka boards exists already but I've got to look into the best way for MQTT control. I might be able to rework the petlibro crack but I'm not sure yet 🙃

[teal heath]

The cables are not totally managed yet because its incomplete but is a mix between a types of management 🙂

[teal heath]

Yup, Bunch of it is downloaded models and some of it custom designed/adapted.

[exotic salmon]

What do you use: freecad, openscad, ...?

[teal heath]

FreeCAD

[hexed pier]

I am opting for an aluminium frame but printing everything else.

[teal heath]

I originally thought of something like that, but then decided to try out the 3d printed one and its actually really solid and easier to customise.

[hexed pier]

I've mulled over that particular decision for a while. Ended up deciding because I already have aluminium and I am resistant to putting plastic into the world without a good reason.

[teal heath]

That seems fair enough.

[hexed pier]

I need to make a tiny rack for a full width patch panel and switch. That will be my proof of concept before I start on the mini.

[teal heath]

update:

obvious missing components... but got the framework sorted out whilst I await deliveries...

[blazing hare]

When I rebuild my stuff I'm going to go for a 19" half rack

[teal heath]

I currently have a 12u 19" rack but I am looking to downsize a bit as a bunch of the stuff I used it for originally has been optimised.

[blazing hare]

Fair. I just want something to stick in the utility room and forget about lol

[teal heath]

between 2 mini pc's and the mini itx system in the mini it will handle most stuff. except the system with the GPU. which i haven't worked out what I am doing with yet.

[blazing hare]

Ah for me I want to include switches etc, and might be inheriting an old vm 1u machine from work to spin up proxmox on

[teal heath]

It depends how many switch ports you need. ill have 16 ports from the 2 switches (only 1 in place in photo) which have the 9th port to connect together.
I then have 1 spot on the back if I need an extra switch at some point (perhaps 10GbE...)
It might be a little tight but honestly I think I should be fine with the 16.

[blazing hare]

Well eventual plan is for... At least 24 (18 PoE things, 2 wireless aps, 4 computers)

[teal heath]

You have a bunch more PoE stuff then me. 1 of the switches is PoE so ill have 8. which is enough for the small amount of PoE stuff I currently have.

[blazing hare]

Yeah I'd like to have at least the capacity for 24 PoE just for safety, the aps are also PoE so I have 20 currently

I love the olimex PoE esp32 lol

[teal heath]

I would probably use PoE more if I had the ability to run more cables about the place but its not currently an option.

Also there is likely a move coming in the next 1-2 years so sizing down makes a move easier too.

[blazing hare]

That's totally fair

I'm mostly interested in getting everything in a single box to make moving easier vs random unlabelled cables all over the floor

[teal heath]

Random photo of the current rack when its out of its home to be worked on 😛

[blazing hare]

Yeah I'm not sharing a picture of my current mess

[teal heath]

in its home 🙂

[teal heath]

gotta be proud before posting photos?

[blazing hare]

My current was not designed, it has just grown

[teal heath]

ah yes, the "ill just add... holy shit how did this happen"...

[blazing hare]

Yup

[sly cairn]

"mess" haha

This is my server stack

[blazing hare]

Horizontal stacking, snazzy

[sly cairn]

250gb of immich and 250gb random backups +500gb of unallocated. Power draw is super low when not charging batteries tho

Problem is the main unit one has 30gb since the SD reader died and Ubuntu eats like 20 of it

Mosquito keeps finding new ways to make massive log

[sweet trellis]

Boo, my under stairs esp node can’t see the attic fan advertisements anymore. Guess I need that big honking antenna after all

[teal heath]

Got my adaptors from AE so can deploy my upgraded BT proxies. V1 Setup vs V2 Setup:

[blazing hare]

Smexy

[teal anchor]

Is that the same model they used on the helicopter to look for the missing persons pacemaker in Arizona?

[teal heath]

Had to look this up... Its probably conceptually the same but slightly different 😛 and I suspect the FBI are not using ESPHome for their device... I mean... They could be but It has gotta be unlikely right?

[blazing hare]

I read that as "person's missing pacemaker" and was like "wow how'd they misplace that?"

[olive owl]

My experirence with pacemakers is that they need to put a sensor directly on your chest over the pacemaker, but that's a 20-year-old pacemaker. It seems very unlikely that they'd be able to get anything useful from a helicopter

[exotic salmon]

Wow, you got ZBT-2‽

This is my server& DSL "cabinet"

[teal heath]

Yup, ZBT-2 has been great 🙂

[exotic salmon]

Though I have an additional 24/7 server on my home cinema... White box below is HA raspi w/ ZBT-01

[sly cairn]

Anyone know a good website for Chinese chip data sheets? I keep running into ones that share names but not functions with other brands

[teal anchor]

That's what I was thinking, but they described the fight pattern as very low, short movements and then sit still. So it sounded like a bluetooth they were looking for.

Since they would know the ID of the thing, maybe they could have been active pinging it?

[sly cairn]

I think the newer BLE pacemakers are a bit stronger, IIRC there have been a few issues with them and dumb kids doing BLE DDOS with flippers

I'd think the FBI would have access to a good enough antenna and the noise filtering to detect. They've got some range

[olive owl]

I can imagine that it would be nice to be able to monitor/control it from within a doctor's office, or even around a hospital floor with something like BT proxies

the battery needs to last for a long time (7-10 year in my experience), so the power would need to be controlled somehow

I would approach it using something like NFC to do the initial connection to keep general power usage low and enable BTLE, disabling it afterward

[sly cairn]

That's why they are BLE. I'd suspect they run in sleep until they get a wake signal, which the sniffer would be putting out. Can't remember if BLE has a native sleep or not

Also the issue with having dumb kids spamming them and wearing the battery or crashing the module

[teal anchor]

But something like NFC would add a security layer, so that is a likely scenario.

[sly cairn]

You'd hope but I suspect if you connected the app at the wrong time you'd be open for MITM. For some reason medical device hijacking is not a popular topic.
Maybe someone could make a home assistant pacemaker integration that deletes your browser history if you flatline

[teal heath]

For some reason medical device hijacking is not a popular topic
I guess its difficult to research, Specially with the ethics of that information becoming public etc...

[sly cairn]

I'd think they're a litigious bunch in med tec

[teal heath]

Most likely.

[jagged harness]

Was just about do redo this with a level shifter, and it looks like I actually can't.
Because there's no 5V reference in this circuit. The MCU gets 3.3V input, but its output pins have internal pull-up resistors to 5V. It must be stepping that up inside the IC.

[teal heath]

"can we buy 20 pacemakers?"
"why?"
"we want to perform security research which will become public, and if there is a floor with your system you will have to replace all the ones you have inside people before someone kills them all and you get blamed"
"yeah... we are gunna say no... you cant have any"

[sly cairn]

A tad safety critical

[sly cairn]

Wat

What esp does that?

[jagged harness]

It's not the esp stepping voltage up.
I have an eletric cat toy with a power/mode button, and 2 rgb leds that show status. I'm attaching a esp32 to it, so I can make it a "smart" device.
The MCU that controls the toy is doing that internal voltage step-up. I can't find the datasheet in english, so I'm not sure what exactly it does.

I could use the USB power as the 5V reference. But this is battery powered, so that only works when charging.
I checked every single contact on the board, and that 5V is only used twice: to power the charger IC, and to disable the toy while charging using a FET.

And the PCB has that power FET, the battery charger IC, the MCU, and a motor driver IC. The rest of the components are resistors, capacitors, and diodes. So I don't see how else it'd be generating 5V for that MCU

It seems weird to me that it would step the VCC up like that internally tho or why they'd use that. Nothing else on the circuit needs 5V.
Even the rgb led it's connected to does not benefit from 5V. Because the LEDs have the anode connected to the battery directly, and the cathode connected to the MCU.

[sly cairn]

What's the pn on MCU?

[teal anchor]

Need to buy them from mortuary's.

[sly cairn]

I suspect that's very illegal

[teal anchor]

If the donor card is signed it probably isn't.

[sly cairn]

Idk do you actually buy a pacemaker or just lease it

Also Marcus that sounds like the application for a 5v-3v optocoupler?

[olive owl]

The batteries do die and I guess they may just choose to replace it if it's old. As far as I'm concerned, I own it

[sweet trellis]

Reduce upfront costs with our brand new subscription service!

*lower upfront costs not yet available

[olive owl]

Sorry, subscription ran out, good luck with that heart problem

[sly cairn]

Your heart will restart after this 30s ad

[mild grove]

Don't give them any ideas

[sly cairn]

Reveal to me your secrets feedo

[modern violet]

Is consumer hardware that prone to failing? I have a relatively new mobo, 2-3 years max, new psu (tested working) and it seemns kike the motherboard just died... Just a regular am4 gaming asrock? motherboard

Was used as a OMV nas and was thinking about running home assitant too but i guess not

[keen bone]

hardware failures are on two big things in my experience

shit luck on the bathtub curve (its either gonna die soon; or never die for 10-15 years) or shitty power.

[blazing hare]

How hot was it getting? Running 24/7 with a dusty filter so the thing starts roasting isn't good for consumer level gear either

[trail fractal]

Is the PSU high quality, a good PSU protects the rest of your hardware from itself and the power in your house

[sly cairn]

F non tuyaMCU comms protocol on the feeder

[blazing hare]

that's the first time i've ever seen someone be unhappy to not have tuya on their stuff

[sly cairn]

No it is tuya

But the main processor and the sub MCU don't follow the TuyaMCU comm protocol, header is 0xffff not 0x55aa

[blazing hare]

oh, fun

[sly cairn]

Figured out a lot of it, was just hoping that someone else had the whole thing working in tasmota or something lmao

[blazing hare]

any joy on here https://templates.blakadder.com/

[sly cairn]

Will have to cross reference. Tuya default setup is really bad anyways and doesn't query the programmable feed properly so you get ghost events really easily

[modern violet]

Running 24/7 not that dusty filter, the drives were sitting at 30-40c

Motherboard: MSI Gaming Gen3 B550 (2 years old ish?)
CPU: Ryzen 5 5500GT (2 years old ish?)
Drives: 2x WD Red 7TB, 1x WD? Just a blue drive for the boot OS (Kinda old like atleast 4 years old)
PSU: Bequiet Pure Power 12M 750W (paper clip tested this and it was okay, very new bought last 6 months)
RAM: Kingston HyperX FURY DDR4 8GB 2x (KF432C16BBK2/16) (2 years old along with mobo i think)

I had a shitty psu before but was suspecting the shitty corsair one might be bad so i got a bequiet

No lights and fans too so it seems like mobo? or cpu is dead... No lights at all on mobo

[sly cairn]

Pulled the ram yet? My bet would be you just killed psu #2 but still

[modern violet]

Not yet, I actually did the paper clip test and it spun up so I dont think the PSU is dead?

Since the build seems really dead (no lights or sounds) ill unbuilt it and build it up piece by piece

I think if the RAM is bad the mobo should still have LEDs on and say DRAM error

[sweet trellis]

Aww yiss

Hmm, I could throw a spare bme280 on the spi bus alongside the cc1101. I don’t know if that’ll impact the RF decoding though

[sly cairn]

Is esphome host still bad for actual devices? Seems like it or tasmota could finish this cat feeder if it wasn't running embedded linux

[sweet trellis]

Would it be better to run the bme280 over i2c and leave the spi bus exclusive to cc1101? Or would that just make it worse as the processor would have to jump?

[sweet trellis]

When you already have a project box and time to strip wires but no time to solder…

[glacial obsidian]

Nothing wrong with Wago connectors.

[sweet trellis]

Side bonus of the esphome sub-devices vs mqtt: repeat updates are ignored so I don’t get a history record every 16 seconds for “battery ok”

[thorn ore]

I find them extremely useful when I inevitably come to changing the hardware in a device installed in an awkward location. No need to perform gymnastics to solder or pull the whole thing out.

[olive owl]

you just have to be careful with wire size

sometimes they don't have enough to bite down on and hold the wire

[meager quail]

they are usually good down to 20 ga

[olive owl]

not a problem for 12/14/16 gauge, but the thinner it gets, the more tenuous the hold

I had some wires with dupont connectors that I think were like 20 or 22 and I had to solder a beefier wire for the Wago to hold it

even after tinning

[sweet trellis]

Yeah it’s not the best hold. Super tiny gauge

But they held so good enough for now

I’ll order some xiao boards and headers at some point. If this holds up well enough I’m tempted to put together a 315 MHz one for capturing car gate remotes and identifying which opened the gate

[meager quail]

You made me double check. Turns out the smallest gauge I’ve used is 18.

https://tenor.com/view/andy-andy-dwyer-parks-and-rec-parksandrec-my-bad-gif-10672222362693713795

[sour haven]

my alexa clone Reginald is finally ready to go home and start running. this actually came out so good im so happy.

[sweet trellis]

rtl_433 doesn’t support the multi-packets needed for decoding Security+ 2.0 remotes, but don’t worry! I have assured myself that it is perfectly reasonable to install a VM on the NAS with the big RTL-SDR antenna to run GNU Radio and test that option

-# I need to touch some grass

[hexed pier]

I love projects that use 3d printing to solve the precision engineering part, but use other materials to go the rest of the way. That looks awesome.

[sour haven]

Literally had the epiphany while walking through the craft section at Walmart to hide the speaker grills and mic spots with fabric. Im super satisfied with how they came out. Plus all of the wrapped parts are interchangeable so super easy to make extra parts and completely change the look.

Been on a quest to delete every cloud dependency in my smart home. The only thing left is the robot vacuum now. Just gotta figure out how to root that now.

[sweet trellis]

It sounds like several of them have been rooted, intentional or otherwise

[sour haven]

Yeah my model has a known method for doing

[teal anchor]

Question.
I have a Shelly 1 Gen3, so it's esp32 c3 based Firmware 1.22.
Trying to get to esphome, but can't find a current OTA flash to get it to Tasmota.
I'm not at home, so my serial flasher dongle stuff isn't available.

This doesn't really fit in the forums, so asking here.

The repo that used to work was abandoned as far as I can tell.
I don't want to add Shelly firmware to my update worries, and wanted to go to espHome since this a simple on off for a floor heat thing and needs dry contacts.
Anyone done this OTA recently?
Otherwise the switch goes home with me and I fix it there.

[keen bone]

I mean.. setup properly there is no "update worries" and homeassistant can tell it to update too..

[thorn ore]

It it's just an on/off switch what's wrong with the Shelly integration?

You don't have to update FW if it is working. You can disable the update entity so you don't even get notified.

[sweet trellis]

Why did no one warn me that RF protocols were a slippery slope into madness

[teal heath]

All RF is wizardry.

[olive owl]

https://tenor.com/view/you-shall-not-pass-lotr-do-not-enter-not-allowed-scream-gif-16729885

Your signal be like

[sweet trellis]

I wonder how big an antenna I can hide in the kitchen before my wife notices

[boreal onyx]

I mean those paper towel holder memes with the ZBT-2 are a good starting point

[olive owl]

It was right there the whole time

[sweet trellis]

I moved my rtl setup back to the Harry Potter closet with my HA proxmox node and was able to grab one of two quick attempts with a gnu radio script provided by the secplus library. Any better would have to be in the kitchen area hiding above the cabinets

But at that point I might as well go down the rabbit hole of trying another CC1101 and making an esphome component for the community, right?

-# that’s how I’m justifying the purchase

[spiral vortex]

For anyone really in to the Shelly hardware I have a hypothetical I'm trying to prove or disprove. Is there an easy way to ensure that if you want to turn one output on, it switches others off, basically to imitate a 3 position rotary switch?

I read a lot of discussion of people trying to control fans in wild ways but all you actually would need is three outputs and the capacitor from a bog standard wall plate fan controller

The other option is to just leave your rotary switch set where you are going to prefer it and use a Shelly 1 to do on/off but that's not what I was trying to demonstrate

[blazing hare]

Define "ensure"
There are no shelly devices that have safety rated interlocks between relays to ensure they only put one high at a time, they are software controlled and software gets bugs, or can be controlled wrong etc
To ensure it from a safety perspective, you would need 3x 3p relays where you fed the power in to the common of your "low" relay through NC contacts in both your medium and high, and vice versa for the others. This would ensure that if two modes were activated for whatever reason, it would cut out instead.
You could then drive those 3 relays with a shelly device.
Practically speaking though... Yes, you could reflash the shelly with esphome to make it so that turning one relay on turns all others off

[rotund sapphire]

Has anyone looked into the IKEA BACKSTÖRN pendant lamp internals? It has a 230V→24V DC PSU in the ceiling box and a rotary dimmer knob in the pendant itself. The knob housing is only about 3cm diameter so I suspect the dimming circuit inside is very simple. My plan is to replace the PSU with a Zigbee-controllable dimmable 24V constant voltage driver and leave the knob at 100%. Anyone done this or know if PWM on the 24V input line would work, or if I should go for analog voltage reduction instead?

[spiral vortex]

I think with levels of complexity I would probably just let the speed controller be the standard dial and capacitor then have a Shelly 2 just provide the straight on/off part of the fan and light.
This is a thing my younger brother asked me about a house that I don't live in, where the main part of the house is CBUS but his and my bedrooms were not and he wanted to do away with the silly remote unit that never works right, so I was thinking push button toggle at wall and then app/voice control for remote and smart needs. I wired my whole house on Shelly relays with nice Clipsal Iconic switch plates on the wall, I just don't use ceiling fans because I am tall and my ceilings are not

[spiral vortex]

I went looking for a wiring diagram to understand your options, and their manual picture does not make sense to my brain. What's it look like?

[rotund sapphire]

So we have this in the ceiling box : (image)

Then the 24v dc runs through the 2 wires holding the pendant. I can measure the voltage across but I need to upgrade my multimeter to trust the readings but at least I can see dc current is flowing and I’m pretty sure I see no voltage change when I turn the knob.

The knob is on the pendant is self on the left side. And internally there is a replaceable led strip (solid pcb) running across.

[rotund sapphire]

Pretty sure this is what is going on: from left 230V AC -> 24v Dc (24v dc max0.8a max 0.8A max 19.0W), then the two horizontal lines are +/- and the know is shown, and the big question is the resistor bottom right. I don’t know if it's a regular analogue potentiometer or PWM in some sense. The tune has a diameter of 3cm, so I don’t think IKEA chose to go with a PWM board, etc., but I don’t know how to check and there is not easy way to take it apart, proberly glued

for the resistor i have no idea about the ohm

[teal anchor]

Ya, but it would be running an integration for 1 vacation switch. And I kinda wanted to play with it.
I'm headed home in a few hours and I'll be back in a few weeks, so no big deal. It's the first shelly I owned. But perfect for what I needed to do with it. A tiny dry contact for the back of an electrical box.

[blazing hare]

just had a look at it - if it's a variable resistor you should be able to measure that just by measuring from the wires across the whole thing as you fiddle the dial
I think it's unlikely - a 19W resistor is a chunky beast if it can dim all the way to unlit - i feel like a small pwm driver is more likely

[rotund sapphire]

If it’s pwm then I can’t dim in front of it right. Would need to be able to control the drive in the pendant right?☺️

[blazing hare]

pretty much - you might be able to put another PWM somewhere that you can control and leave the one in the pendant at 100%

[rotund sapphire]

Oh that might be the solution I’m the only one tall enough to reach it anyway

[rotund sapphire]

I’ll buy a dimmer that supports the voltage and give it a go, thank you!

[teal anchor]

It is almost certainly a PWM dimmer with a current limiting Resistor, probably a couple hundred ohms.
If you are changing this thing, either find a way to interface with the controller OR cut it off and power the light yourself. Don't stick anything between...

Very BAD things will happen. @rotund sapphire

[rotund sapphire]

Also if I just always leave it at 100% on the knob?

[blazing hare]

sorry - yes forgot to mention that, it can be ok but better to avoid it if you don't have details about the 2nd PWM
basically the 2nd PWM control circuit (which is still running even at 100%) can freak out if its supply isn't nice and smooth and do all kinds of stuff you don't want. You can get around it to a degree with low pass filtering (a resistor and capacitor) after the PWM you're controlling to ensure the voltage being passed off to the 2nd is smooth (ish) DC
you do also then have to contend with the possibility that the 2nd PWM controller won't work at all with lower voltage, so even if you leave it at 100% it might cut out if the supply voltage is <20V for example

[rotund sapphire]

How would you guys proceed what it the most practical way. I don’t see a way of removing the exciting dimmer without ruining the lamp and it’s not bit enough to support replacement inside of the pendant it self. I do realize I can always do a 230v relay in front of the exciting psu but that is boring

[blazing hare]

Do you have a way of providing different dc voltages? E.g. A USB c pd trigger board would get you 5, 9, 12, 15, 20v
That would let you test quickly how sensitive the inboard pwm is to supply voltage.
If it cuts out at relatively high voltage, you're kind of stuffed - you won't be able to externally dim it by messing with the supply.
If it works down to low voltage, then a pwm controller with a suitable RC filter to smooth the output back into a "good enough" supply voltage would work

[rotund sapphire]

Hmm currently not part of my arsenal 😞 but might be able to find a 15v psu

Or could this be a viable test https://www.proshop.dk/Smart-Home/Light-Solutions-ZigBee-Pro-RGBCW-5-i-1-LED-Controller-1224V/3384709

that is not too expensive for a test

Just so I’ve shown the size

[blazing hare]

this is so utterly fucking cursed

[sweet trellis]

It’s not that ba- reads further I would like to retract my previous statement

[olive owl]

Hexed is the word

[sweet trellis]

Aimed for hex, landed on hax

[teal anchor]

That's what I get for trying to use something from the box of shame. That shelly1 gen3 has annoyed me to the point of tossing it. Argued with it all morning and still have not succeeded flashing it. Well it looked like it flashed serially, but apparently not.
Just ordered a gen 4 so I can zigbee to it.

[blazing hare]

I guess you didn't fix it today then?

[teal anchor]

If you mean fixed it in like neutering it, yes, it's bricked...

[blazing hare]

Hah. At least take the relays off the pcb, they're good

[sweet trellis]

Boo, the recommended MISO pin on this xiao esp32c3’s data sheet is a strapping pin and gets pulled low by the CC1101. Rerouting my beautiful solder job is going to be a pain

Maybe those clothespins were too tight

Why couldn’t it have been a wire on the top of my crime against neat wiring 😭

[teal anchor]

This worked for me.. https://github.com/SirGoodenough/Home-Assistant-Config/blob/master/esphome/firebox.yaml
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/getting-started-esp32-c3-super-mini/ (use the blue ones)

spi:
  miso_pin: GPIO5
  clk_pin: GPIO4
sensor:
  - platform: max6675
    name: "Cottage Gas Furnace"
    cs_pin: GPIO7
    update_interval: 64s

[sweet trellis]

Thanks, I moved both miso and clock and everything starts up now

Now I just have to figure out how to go from raw timings to something I can feed in to the decoder library squints at graph

[sweet trellis]

Converting pulse timings to OOK bits with pen and paper to see if the correct signal has been captured is a perfectly normal thing, right?!?

Asking for a friend

[heady nexus]

it's normal compared to things that aren't normal

jk, normal is relative

[sweet trellis]

Good: I can successfully decode captured signals with a combo of C++ and Python, so it’s a matter of time until it’s running on esphome
Less good: position and/or antenna can’t seem to capture signals just outside the wall

[sweet trellis]

I did not start this week planning to learn esphome component development and low level esp functionality

I blame you lot

In a good way

🫰

[runic flame]

Hello, I got pointed in this direction. I made a fan appliance thing out of an ESP and a bank of relays, but I'm having a heck of a time getting Home Assistant to do anything coherent with it. Does anyone have any tips for designing a sort of carousel function for relays?

[teal heath]

can you give some more details on what exactly its going and how?

[runic flame]

So, physically everything is assembled. I have three 3-speed fans wired to a bank of relays, connected to a regular ESP32, one GPIO per relay. The ESP32 is running Tasmota and connected to HA using the MQTT/Tasmota integration, and in HA, there are 12 switch entities.

What I want to do is change the state of these switch entities using... something. I want to press a button to raise and lower the speeds of these fans, but HA only sees relays.

It's also kind of important that only one relay for each motor is engaged at a time.

[teal heath]

are you fixed on using Tasmota or open to change?

[runic flame]

I am willing to change platforms as long as I can control it as a standalone appliance without using HA.

[teal heath]

ESPHome may be easier to do what you want. and integrates with HA out the box.

[runic flame]

Doesn't that "marry" the unit to the HA install?

Even if it's a bit fiddlier, I think I have this like 90% of the way there already, the main stumbling block now is, I cannot figure for the life of me how to do something based on the state of a numeric helper.

I can set a number with my buttons, but I can't make iHAdo something based on that number.

[teal heath]

what does HA currently see? can you screenshot your device page?

[teal heath]

what does estop do?

[runic flame]

Estop cuts the AC return. I wasn;t sure if I wanted to leave it hot all the time so the Estop cuts the AC to the motors.

[teal heath]

right, so its a "master power switch" for the fan

[runic flame]

Exactly! And we can ignore if for this, it's not really needed.

[teal heath]

Making a Templated Fan Entity seems like it would be the way to go.

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/template#fan

I am not sure of the specifics of how to write it though.

[runic flame]

Google keeps pointing me at this but I'm not sure what to do with it.

[teal heath]

You would have to template the actions so that setting it to low/med/high sets the correct relay positions.

[runic flame]

It's cool that code exists for this, but where do I put it?

[teal heath]

In the HA configuration.yaml file then restart homeassistant to load it.

[olive owl]

I suggest #1284966664357810196 for more. And you can create a fan template helper in the UI, as well

[teal heath]

If you use ESPHome instead it has a software relay interlocking function to help protect against multiple relays being engaged.
you could also template the fan in that instead of home assistant.

[teal heath]

I think they might need more functions than the ui version allows for? but I am not totally sure

[runic flame]

Hmm... The template for a fan requires a state. I'm not sure how to get that. I mean, if you can tell me how to use the value of a number to perform an action I can build an if then else tree out of this and call it a day.

[teal heath]

to be fair you might be able to do this kind of stuff with toamota too but I am less familiar with it

[teal heath]

You can work it out by the state of your relays no?

[runic flame]

I mean... forget the fans, forget tasmota, let's say I have an arrow button and when I press right it adds 1 to a number and when I press the left one it subtracts 1. How do I use that number in an automation to do something?

[teal heath]

a numeric state trigger?

[runic flame]

I have tried everything that seems like it might work, and I have not been able to get an automation to toggle any of these siwtches.

I have tried state, numeric state, set ranges, manual triggers, nothing has worked and I am beginning to get very frustrated with this.

[teal heath]

where are you getting the number from and what does the automation look like?

[runic flame]

It's a helper. I have screenshots.

Step in the second screenshot should be "Initial Value" I was just shotgunning things to see if I could get some life out of it.

If I can get it to do anyhting at all, I can extend it to cover the ranges of states I need.

The annoying thing is, the helper number does increment/decrement and tracks its value perfectly. I just need tha tvalue to toggle my switches!

[teal heath]

Is the automation failing to trigger or failing to do stuff?
If your checking the state within the actions anyway then you can just trigger on any state change to the number entity.

[runic flame]

Not only that, I'm calling it from the button press.

I don;t know how to debug this. It is triggering the automation, but it does not toggle the switch.

[teal heath]

Look at the automation trace and see what its doing and where its stopping.

[runic flame]

Trace?

[teal heath]

when looking at the automation look in the top right

it allows you to look through the automations calls and what it does/doesn't do.

[runic flame]

Oh, that is amazing.

So, It looks like it just always evaluates to false. How do I tell a numeric state check to look for a specific number?

I have to set above and below, which is... you'd thing you could do ==2 but I guess not.

[teal heath]

you could use a template trigger

{{ states('input_number.test_number')|int == 4 }}
replace input_number.test_number with the correct entity obviously.

I still think fully templating a Fan with multiple presets is still the best way to do this. also having some kind of on device interlock is going to be better for safety in case switch setting order isnt perfect.

[runic flame]

This is EXACTLY what I needed! Thank you so much!

[tall thorn]

Anyone have experience with hc-sr501 PIR sensors?

I am getting false positives every 20 seconds.

24v power supply split. One direction to WLED controller ( esp32) the other to a step down converter 5v. 5v powers the PIR. Data from PIR into the WLED controller to the GPIO

[runic flame]

I think you're probably right. As the states will be fully explicitly defined, I think this should be okay and not run off the rails in an unsafe way, and there's probably a better way to do this but I don't have a lot of time these days. Again, thank you, this actually worked, and I would not have found it searching the net.

[teal heath]

Cool, hopefully it will be fine. if its working then that is good enough for now 🙂 if you get some time in the future though I definetly suggest checking out ESPHome. I think its a lot more flexible for stuff like this when compared to tasmota (although I admit that I have less experience with tasmota so maybe it can do some stuff I am not aware of.)
Good Luck with it all the same.

[teal heath]

is it positioned so that its not effected by something changing temp? a pir fundermentally sees changes in heat. I remember having an issue once with a PIR sensor and it turned out because it was mounted above a fridge, when the motor kicked in it caused warm air to rise and cause false triggers.

[tall thorn]

Temp is stable

I am thinking either power supppy or rf, interference

Gotta find isolated power supply and see if anything changes.

[teal heath]

can you shield it with some grounded aluminium foil or something to test to see if its rf?

Not a perfect test obviously but might help narrow it down.

[tall thorn]

I saw that reccomendation online, I just am not sure how.

Wrap the whole thing in foil directly except the sensor? In that safe( shorts) , how would I connect the foil to ground

[teal heath]

you gotta be careful. you could wrap it in something non conductive then foil over that.

how would I connect the foil to ground
strip the end of a bit of wire and tape it to the foil then attach the other end to your PSU's GND. 😛

[tall thorn]

Ok gonna start with a fresh supply and go from there

Can I tie to any ground point ? I assume we are talking about on the dc side of thing

[teal heath]

yeah, it doesnt matter. all your grounds should be connected anyway 😛

[tall thorn]

Kinda bummed when it works it works. Wish it wasn’t so finicky like this

Literally the whole point of this module is to detect motion lol why be saucepan lento noise, WiFi, rf etc

[rotund sapphire]

The 5-1 works. It had the possibility to select hz and that solved the worst of the flickering. I can’t really go below 40% but above I have control and I can now control it ☺️ maybe not optimal but still feels like a win

[blazing hare]

nice!

[sweet trellis]

rf-ing intensifies
[16:11:29.765][I][secplus:220][SecPlusDecoderT]: Exact bit width (in us) is 249.63 vs 250.00, 30 bit preamble

[tall thorn]

Hi everyone I just received my first esp32 in the mail. I got this model.

I also got a basic PIR sensor that runs off 5v. I thought I would be able to use the 5vin pin but can’t get it working.

When I measure that pin I see ~4.8 v and when I plug it into the sensor and measure only .5.

Am I doing something wrong ?

[blazing hare]

What pir sensor are you using, and how have you wired it up?

The 5v on an esp should be more than enough to supply a pir sensor, it should like you shorted it to ground somehow

[tall thorn]

I did solder an LDR into the provided holes, but when i measure the PIR when plugged into a standard dedicated power supply it reads 5 volts perfectly.

Only when hooked up to the esp do I get .5

[tall thorn]

This one. Grind to a gnd pin, VCC to the 5vin pin, out to pin 4 currently. I have tried several pins for out in testing though.

[blazing hare]

ok let's go back a step
When you say you're measuring .5V - is that between VCC and GND on the PIR module, or VCC and out?
if it's between VCC and GND - does the esp shut down? load up blink or some other default i/o check program into it and set it running, then connect the PIR and see if it stops

[tall thorn]

It measures .5 everywhere I probe ( esp 32 pins directly, end of the DuPont wires that are attached to the pir). When not connected, it measure 4.8v at both of those areas.

The esp seems to running fine itself, I am connected to the computer and and can upload programs etc without issue.

[blazing hare]

Between what pins though

[tall thorn]

5vin and gnd on the esp 32

Connected to VCC and gnd of the PIR

[blazing hare]

OK. So you're doing something wrong if the pir is actually causing that to go to basically 0
The esp32 will not run if you're pulling it's supply voltage that low

[tall thorn]

Yea 🙁

[blazing hare]

So are you wrong when you said the esp is running, or are you just measuring something wrong?

[tall thorn]

The esp seems to be running just fine as far as I can tell

And I am pretty sure I am also measuring correctly.

Multi meter set to dc voltage 20 red probe on 5vin black on ground.

[blazing hare]

OK and what pins on the pir sensor have you wired things into? Vcc/data/gnd?

[tall thorn]

In the sensory, yes, they are labels VCC, out, gnd

[blazing hare]

And does this occur on the other one without the ldr you said you added

[tall thorn]

They both have an ldr, it happens with both sensors.

However, when these same sensors are hooked up to dedicated power source directly they measure 5v at the pins.

It also works ( albeit with some annoying false triggers) to turn on a light with movement , only in the dark ( ldr)

Started this so I could watch how the sensor output data and try and trouble shoot false triggers.

[blazing hare]

OK. I would remove the ldr from at least one of them then and check again

[tall thorn]

Ok I will try that ,’

New to soldering as well so that should be fun lol

[blazing hare]

And of course check you didn't accidentally desolder anything or bridge and pads while you were soldering it on

[tall thorn]

I will, it was tough and small for me.

But again, the sensor seems to work fine when hooked to light bulb and dedicated power source

[tall thorn]

https://discord.com/channels/429907082951524364/1477717278744248351

don’t know if this will link correctly

But added photos and info , very very stuck

It doesn’t look like anything is wrong with the solder ?

[sweet trellis]

This rf-ing thing… I can get my CC1101 to recognize and decode garage remote signals, but it ignores signals sent from the car’s homelink which in theory is at the same frequencies

[blazing pecan]

hey guys i have a problem with fully and tzhe screensaver from my tablet maybe someone can help

[teal heath]

#find-support

[hallow lance]

He has been sent here.

[blazing pecan]

Maybe I got a Solution by myself 🥲but thanks maybe Tomorrow is the Problem back

[slow sphinx]

anyone know what the first device @timber jasper held up in the community stage, looked like a plastic microcontroller case maybe had a red/orange label?

[teal heath]

The IR thing? It is the "IR Mate" from SEEED

[slow sphinx]

Thought it said heltec on it

[teal heath]

Oh, You mean the LoRa thing? I have no idea.

[sweet trellis]

There’s a couple heltec lora boards with SX12xx RF chips. I was looking at using one for my rtl433 projects but ended up using a CC1101 instead

[timber jasper]

Heltec v3 (Lora)
The chat was talking about Meshtastic and Meshcore

[mild grove]

Meshtastic is fun

[teal heath]

Mini Rack is deployed!

Write up here - https://gist.github.com/MichaelMKKelly/a2ea968952bfa1d3b85350cd0ccb8e9d

[olive owl]

looks great 🎉

[olive owl]

not everyone has to compensate...

[mild grove]

https://giphy.com/gifs/offthejacks-sema2018-lifted-truck-rollin-big-power-1lCH0uDJycQ3UFiBlI

[teal anchor]

https://tenor.com/mhq4u934VkD.gif

[sweet trellis]

ESP_GATTC_DISCONNECT_EVT, reason 0x13
So nice of the esp32 in my hardwired attic fan's OEM controller to repeatedly drop the connection in order to checks notes probably save power

[flat stag]

that's just not right

too much power for one person

definite envy

Anyone here build garage door tilt sensors?

I'm debating if it's worth it, I have some reed switches and I was thinking about backing it up with an ultrasonic distance sensor to check if the door is up and throw a notification if there's conflicting info

I was contemplating using a C6 over zigbee and sw520's to sense the door move

figure I can use the SW520 to latch power wake the C6 up, let it warm up the connection, transmit status change and then go back to sleep when it settles

[boreal onyx]

Do you want some sort of measurement of how open the door is based on angle, or just open/closed?

[flat stag]

or I can just figure out how to get the reed switch to read reliably (need to come up with a way to mount it), and just use the ultra sonic

I'm concerned that the reed switchs won't line up well the way my door is

it's a segmented rolling door, so angle isn't necessary

thats why I figured a couple distance sensors on the ceiling could tell me if the door is there and I have some parity between the two sensors per door

[boreal onyx]

Reed switches usually work from a pretty respectable distance away. I have the sensor screwed to the floor (wooden) and the magnet cable tied to the door, works fine.

[flat stag]

yeah I figure I could always get a bigger magnet for the door

I noticed these switches seem to be more sensitive on the NC rather than the NO side somehow

although that was some unscientific testing trying to hold the multipeter on the tinned ends of the wire and moving the magnet with my other hand, I need to get some pincher style probes for the meter

or just get unlazy punch down some duponts and test it a litttle better

but for another $2 in ultrasonic modules it couldn't hurt to have backup

esphome has native support for SR04s

[boreal onyx]

The thing I'm using is entirely off the shelf, so can't help you there

https://www.milesight.com/iot/product/lorawan-sensor/em300-mcs

[flat stag]

out of curiosity how much do those go for?

holy crap $105 for a door sensor?

I didn't want to spend $120 for two ratgdos

[keen bone]

and temp and humidity! /s

[flat stag]

I'm about $16.50 into my two garage door controller with temp/humidity monitoring

yeah esp-wroom $5.35 + $3 relay module, $1.15 DHT, $7 reed switches (amazon impatient)

oh, I forgot the 2n7000s

although next ali order I can switch to two 3.3v relays and ditch the transistors

(right now I'm just sticking the legs of the transistors into a dupont connector lol)

just had some proto boards show up I should probably solder them down, that'll add like another $0.60 to the build

next up I'm going to build out about half a dozen temp sensors on some 8266s I have laying around

want to graph the rest of the house

kind of on the fence about DIY temp control, have 4 zone hotwater baseboard heat, really easy for me to augment the existing thermostats and just use dry contacts

contemplating doing the same for the AC

[tiny spindle]

Hitting a wall on my networking, so I'm going with new unfi stuff, gonna install 10gb poe through the house with XGS access points for wifi

picked up a 64 core epyc milan and board for the media/home assistant/ai server and threw 3 3090s and a 3060 ti in it.

[teal anchor]

Unifi... Good luck. NEVER let them install the updates, friend...

[wintry plaza]

I swear to god 🤣
It decided to update my UCG ultra last night, at 1 am.

In the middle of my party 🫠

Music and visuals gone for a good 15 minutes

[teal anchor]

You couldn't pay me to use their stuff.

[heady nexus]

yep, do yourself a favor and turn off auto-update

[wintry plaza]

Fam, at this point i'm eyeballing competitors 🫠

I got like 25* ESp32 and they keep dropping.

I'm at 1-2 people telling me 'X is better with IoT' away from jumping ship 🤣

[heady nexus]

@wintry plaza have you tried the "enhanced IoT connectivity" setting on whatever SSID you're using for those? I haven't had any issues after enabling that

[wintry plaza]

Tediore, I've tried everything over the last 5 years tbh.

Dtim at 1/3
IoT enhancements
DHC reserved IPs
AP lockdowns
Reducing APs DBs
Increasing APs dbs
Reducing which APs have 2.4Ghz from 4>3>2>1 before going back to 4 APs having 2.4Ghz.

[heady nexus]

Interesting

[wintry plaza]

And it's not a single type of device either...

my FP2s from aqara keep dropping, and so do most of my ESP32s.

Surprisingly the EPL from Everything Smart home 'never' drop.

So props to Lewis for whatever he did to that esphome firmware 😅

[heady nexus]

Gone

[dire pecan]

You're gone

[wintry plaza]

I'm gonna

But not saying gonna do what :mysterious:

[teal anchor]

What the router / AP brand? Sounds to me like something unifi would do, honestly...

[wintry plaza]

3x U6 lite
1x U6 pro
1 UCG UIltra as router.
a few Unifi Poe switches here and there

And i need to upgrade that router/LAN to 10gbps...

Bell offers 8GBPS here now ( my ISP)

But I don't want to spent 4k$ to further lockmyself in unifi :/

[boreal onyx]

Cynically, I would be looking pretty hard at the U6-Lites

Every AP Ubiquiti have made using those MediaTek ASICs has been hot garbage, bar none

The U6 Pro is Qualcomm, which frankly are far from perfect themselves but a damn sight better

[heady nexus]

Indeed, I don't understand why they insist on selling those models with the mediatek chips

[teal anchor]

Nailed it

[heady nexus]

I've had a good experience with the ones that have Qualcomm though

[boreal onyx]

I had an In-wall HD back in the WiFi 5 days, would just outright stop accepting clients and need rebooting, sometimes more than once a day.
It also had that fun issue of over-driving the LED and burning it out, which was a shame because it was in an interior hallway and made a pretty good nightlight

[teal anchor]

Now my new Asus WIFI-7 router I don't seem to be able to force into N mode, so all my 8266 Tasmota stuff is getting Zombied and need power reset to recover, but you are talking ESP32 so that doesn't apply.

[wintry plaza]

I could try removing 2.4Ghz from those and see if it works better with a single U6 pro?

[boreal onyx]

If you can get the coverage with just one, give it a shot.
If you've got a separate SSID for IoT then it's easy to just disable it on the other APs (I don't think they're so dire that they'll meaningfully pollute the airspace just with their mere existence), but it can't hurt to turn it off entirely

[wintry plaza]

I do yeah. and only that SSID has 2.4ghz anyway

So just disabling the 2.,4ghz antenna would sufice

[boreal onyx]

Quick and easy test then

[wintry plaza]

I'll finish fighting with those seeed esp32 c3 i just received and be on it

They refuse to boot the firmware i flash to them, even tho the firmware was made by seeed. Annoying

[tiny spindle]

why would you let people update things? 😄

I dunno, seemed to be a good brand, I've been using more consumer level junk so... seemed like a good option

[teal anchor]

Because moire than once their 'updates' have crashed their hardware and bricked stuff. In the light of that danger, there should be someone there to pick up the pieces.
Don't believe me? Put this into a search engine and read. ubiquiti firmware crash

[wintry plaza]

No luck 😛 One U6 pro AP only all night long and some disconnected:

[teal anchor]

[keen bone]

are the 'probes' just individual esps or somethin?

[wintry plaza]

Yep. Each one is an ESP32

I still got 5 more to add, but I want to fix their connectivity before

[keen bone]

which one out of curiosity?

[wintry plaza]

I got many models

here:

[keen bone]

because if its that one with the shit antenna thats not recommended I'll chuckle.

😛

[wintry plaza]

12 ESP32 with external antennas
6 XIAO ESP32C3 with external antennas

And the rest have internal antennas

So like 4 of them

But the antennas doesn't seem related 😅

I have ones with the good antennas dropping while a nearby one without EA doesn't disconnect

[teal anchor]

Live near an airport, or radio tower, or ham radio operator? I think you said you tried multiple channels and eliminated Zigbee and other 2.4 interference.

[wintry plaza]

(The antenna less are NodeMCU in majority)

[wintry plaza]

Nop, Nop, Nop.

My Zigbee is on channel 25, to be far from my wifi stuff, but there is still 120 devices on it

(25 concords with wifi channel 12/13 which is not usedi n CA)

[teal anchor]

It's too bad to just be a Unifi problem I think.

[wintry plaza]

That somehow gives me hope?

Like, I really don't want to spend 5-6 grands replacing everything 😅

I also set that IoT network to auto/IoT and removed most custom parameters

[teal anchor]

Well if it just happens in a few hours, turn something off in the late night hours one at a time, like Zigbee or whatever. and see if you can make it go away.

pull the radio.

[wintry plaza]

I wish it was so simple. They seem to drop over days/nights. But I don't see a pattern 🙁

And removing zigbee overnight is a no go

My horns, tied to Frigate and the security system run on smart plugs

[teal anchor]

My best found way to solve a problem is cut the possibilities in half, so take big easy sweeps like that and see if you can change the pattern.

[wintry plaza]

Yeah, I know the shotgun method.

The weird thing is that I don't even think it'srelated to reception

Two nodes that dropped here, one was at -74DB which would lead to thinking that's the issue.
But the one that dropped in the r oom beside it is at -36 :/

[teal anchor]

I tgot nothing more...

[wintry plaza]

No worries 😛

I'll continue living like this until I decide to say 'fuck it' and get 20 POE esp32s 😅

I'm eyeballing them: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/ESP32-POE-EA?qs=%252B6g0mu59x7JOzU9nMXxpMw%3D%3D

[teal anchor]

The POE ones are good as long as you still have enough GPIO available for what you want after the Ethernet port eats a bunch of them.

[wintry plaza]

I just want Bluetooth tracking for my ESPRESense

[keen bone]

yeah... the best option for those seems to be the uhhh.. P4 boards with the C6 coprocessor or w/e

since p4 has alllllll the pins.

[wintry plaza]

Damn that was quick

[teal anchor]

And a temp/humidity and an IR because it's just sitting there running you may as well. (Almost free and the MCU and ESPHome don't care either)

[wintry plaza]

I already got dedicated TEmperature sensors in each room 😅

And i don't think i need Ir for anything

[blazing hare]

temp/humidity on an esp is always a bit janky - especially if that's working hard running espresence
also espresence != esphome - while espresence has some capacity for supporting additional sensors it's a far cry from esphome, bermuda is the one that runs through bluetooth proxy over esphome (https://github.com/agittins/bermuda)

[blazing hare]

if it's cheap enough to add you'll never complain about having too many sensors 🙂 - personally i'd try to squeeze a light sensor in there if you can

[wintry plaza]

While I appreciate that 😛

Even if I used ESPHOME, the sensors are litterally thrown on the floor behind couches 😅 Not much light gets there 😛

[blazing hare]

hah ok

bermuda is pretty cool though

might be worth reading up on the comparisons

[wintry plaza]

I ran bermuda for a while.. But it is not as precise (No trilateration to find my phone within a room lol)

[mild grove]

It and espresence use the same exact tracking method

[wintry plaza]

I use the ESPRESENSE Companion, which adds trilateration

[thorn ore]

Bermuda does do trilateration and it can track your phone if you use the private BLE monitor: https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/private_ble_device/ I can track my phone without problem.

[wintry plaza]

It gives a map with the devices on it?

[olive owl]

not the integration itself. it tells you the closest bt proxy, how far you are away from it, and distances to others that see you

a bunch are disabled for the current proxy, but you can get all this and use it to build an updating map (I guess):

[thorn ore]

It can do if you add BPS: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/bps-the-indoor-precise-tracking-system/843429

Eh. Actually that looks to now be abandoned.

[olive owl]

Interesting, hadn't seen that. The Bermuda author went into great detail about how the distances were black magic

[wintry plaza]

Yeah, I tried it! It glitches terribly

[keen bone]

it involves RF shit, so yes.

[olive owl]

I find it remarkably accurate to indicate that you're in a room, but proxies on multiple floors can confuse it

[wintry plaza]

With espresense it get pretty accurate

[olive owl]

as you can tell from the pic, I have a lot of proxies now 🙂

[keen bone]

ideally you'd only position them in a grid of packed pyramids equidistant from each other..

😛

[wintry plaza]

I'm at ~22. Had them all in bermuda before, but i really did miss the trilateration

[olive owl]

I had a bunch of M5Stack devices running ESPresence and realized that I could just make them all BT proxies

[wintry plaza]

I don't need BT proxies as of now thankfully

But if I did, i'd use the 6 EPL i have for that

[severe quest]

So there's these ultrasonic water flow sensors like the one from Quandify. Does anyone know of some that deal with gas and are intended for consumer use? (I find industrial ones, but they're expensive as hell obviously.)

[teal anchor]

You might want to post in https://discord.com/channels/330944238910963714/1284966353798697001 for more eyes to see that.

[blazing hare]

as a rule, no - you can't measure gas like that with a clamp on meter - the water ones work in a way that simply doesn't translate well to gas - are you able to monitor your meter somehow? (https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/energy/gas/)

[severe quest]

My gas meter is in a community cellar. If I were to run some electrical appliance on the shared outlets, someone might take offense.

Currently, I've jerryrigged a virtual meter in HA. I have my gas boiler on a smart plug and measure the runtime. Using gas bills and recorded runtimes, I tweak the virtual flow rate, if it deviates too much.

Works OK for what it is. More accurate numbers would be nice.

[blazing hare]

Yeah, sadly they just don't exist.
I'd just ask your neighbours about the outlets down there and if it's really a no go, then a usb battery pack should give you a few weeks of runtime at a minimum

[keen bone]

120ah of batteries for a 24v pack with a 24vdc supply+UPS.. now I just have to... design the stuff to keep things snug and safe inside..

and it fits in this scavenged APC UPS spare-battery-pack rack case I got.. that fits my small rack well..

pulling the sheet metal insides out was a pain in the ass tho.

because rivets (are easy to remove yes..)

They welded the bottom part to the case tho. 😠

[hallow lance]

Where is the emotional support extinguisher?

[keen bone]

out of frame.. they're also lifepo4 so I'm not as worried.. 😛

but yes the BMS and fuse and etc need to go in eventually

just not there yet.

gotta work up a simple CAD of the case itself so I can get a manipulatable model to work off.

[dapper crypt]

Can anyone help , i have a broadlink 4 mini and an eetv remote... issue is the eetv remote is bluetooth. aside from volume.. however the eetv box accepts IR signals from the youview/humax IR remotes and i have proven this with the broadlink app using set2 of the controls offered under humax.. i have tried to sniff the signals with wireshark to no avail .. and a load of other claude related suggestions but am getting no where.. i dont seem to beable to find any codes (asumming base64) online ,, can anyone possible suggest other solutions to this .? apologies if this is in the wrong channel

[keen bone]

learn how to actually do it.

unsurprisingly; ai is not actually useful when you don't know what you're trying to do. 🙃

[dapper crypt]

well im going to assume you cannot help AI was used as a last resort ... should the soultion be something and i have overlooked , and you are aware.. id appriciate the help... otherwise... meh

[dapper crypt]

would asking questions after trying to find online help not come under learning how to do it ?

[hallow lance]

https://tenor.com/view/hello-there-gif-5677380953331354485

[dapper crypt]

assuming discord help isnt a thing

[keen bone]

https://community.ee.co.uk/t5/TV/Does-the-new-EETV-Box-Pro-Still-Support-the-Older-IR-Remotes/td-p/1550038

Cheat using the old IR codes.

anything that requires a pairing sequence is probably going to be outside of your realm of knowledge to figure out how to emulate.

[hallow lance]

And Bluetooth used in HA is usually BLE without pairing.

[dapper crypt]

maybe you mis understood

the remoe i have is BT

there are IR remotes that work

clearly i dont have the remote needed.. but i have proven the IR signals work from the broadlink library... aka humax set 2

but i cannot import these codes to HA

so i have tried all options im aware of to gain these b64 codes ....

and am not asking after trying to learn myself... if anyone has a solution / db of codes etc etc..

wasnt expecting barriers

[keen bone]

https://github.com/probonopd/irdb

Barriers are part of how smarthome stuff works.

Especially given how shit mfr's are. 🙃

[hallow lance]

If you have the BASE64 commands, you can send them via the Broadlink RM4 mini.
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/broadlink/#sending-a-base64-code

https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/broadlink/#conversion-of-codes-from-other-projects

[dapper crypt]

yeah im aware , as i have mentioned , the base64 codes are within the broadlink app i can only broadcast the signal .. i do not have access to the b64 string... so this is my issue .. how to gain the b64 string from the app... (which is broadcasting https )

tldr i need the b64 strings for humax/youview remotes.. there are several .. in the broadlink app set2 works.. is all i can get so far

[hallow lance]

In the docs is a whole section about getting stuff from the app. With Broadlink Manager for example.

[dapper crypt]

broadlink manager doesnt allow access to the apps db.. as its https cloud based db .. all the manager can do is similar to the broadlink app ... learn and send codes

[keen bone]

why would something working via cloud access use remote IR codes in the slightest?

its using a cloud connection.

[dapper crypt]

the app sends signals over the cloud , it doesnt use IR signals... but the code emitted from the broadlink is clearly a IR code. to the STB..

[hallow lance]

Have you tried the Humax codes from the two repositories and the HA conf generator mentioned in the docs?

[dapper crypt]

can u link those so i can verify . i have tried several

[hallow lance]

https://github.com/molexx/irdb2broadlinkha

[dapper crypt]

thanks.. will look at this..

[teal anchor]

https://tenor.com/view/silverspoon-ii-inanimateinsanity-inanimate-insanity-inanimateinsanitysilver-gif-15202221262105349812

[lavish shard]

Does anyone have any potential knowledge for translating USB logic data scraped via logic analyzer?

Basically trying to reverse engineer an older sleep number bed lol

Irony being we actually have two and the other has the pump someone already cracked

[lavish shard]

I think I have an idea for how to move forward, will possibly update with success or failure in the near future

[boreal onyx]

This was on my youtube front page today. Might be interesting to someone.
https://youtu.be/E1BLGpE5zH0

[lavish shard]

So I was able to successfully get snapcast going and outside of some latency shenanigans it's working surprising well

Just need to expand it to the rest of the systems for integration

[lavish shard]

The only infuriating bit is trying to get the Sonos speakers to synchronize with the echo devices

[dire pecan]

Take a baseball bat to the Echo devices, problem solved.

[lavish shard]

I don't disagree necessarily, they only have 1GB of RAM on all of the models I have which is absolutely stupid and explains why they suck so much

Amongst other things

They are just going to be fancy HA satellites, the issue is getting the damned things to work with me in relation to audio output

The > 1 delay is absolutely awful to listen to

[dire pecan]

Have you seen Sendspin yet?

[lavish shard]

I have, haven't actively worked with it yet though

[olive owl]

it addresses exactly that problem

[lavish shard]

I'll have to futz with it in that case

proceeds to annoy everyone in the house

[olive owl]

at least you can do it in perfect synchronization

it's really amazing

[sweet trellis]

I tried it briefly with Amon Amarth “Put your back into the oar”. Three very much not synchronized speakers yelling at me to row

[dire pecan]

@dense ember is basically our community expert on this, so I'm gonna just make him aware in here just in case he can help. 😄

[dense ember]

I don’t have Sonos but I understand they can use AirPlay which works pretty well with chromecast and VPEs (esp). If I’m understanding correctly. And yes baseball bat to echo devices lol. I do use them for announcements. But even then they are not in sync.

[lavish shard]

My issue is Airplay is the only protocol that seems to be remotely close to in sync with eachother

And sendspin does not appear to have any latency adjustments available

[dire pecan]

You can also join the Music Assistant server if you have any specific troubleshooting needs or feedback you want to share. https://discord.gg/4casPPP6k

[lavish shard]

Thank you for that

The saddest part is the only reason I'm using the Echos is because we already have them and the long term plan is to convert them all over to a more streamlined local control only household

Smart homes aren't easy on a low budget lol

[dire pecan]

They really aren't if you focus on big names, but there's a lot of smaller brands that work great within budgets.

I also have Echos, and one of the biggest questions I've seen is "how do we take these over". I think I've seen ONE project take over Echo device hardware over the past 2 years.

If I could repurpose these easier, I'd be forever grateful for who solves that. 😄

[olive owl]

Without completely replacing the guts 🙂

[mild grove]

and its dead with the google one

[lavish shard]

Different question, anyone else have an emporia vue 3 and know if there are better alternatives to soldering to it to re-image?

[lavish shard]

Infuriatingly difficult is a phrase I would use

[void vessel]

is returning it for one of the vue 2 knockoffs that works natively with HA an option?

[lavish shard]

Possibly, I already have one vue 3 though so I figure I'll just image both at some point

I do apparently have to return the second one, unit will not power on at least as far as I was able to test.

[keen bone]

You could use a probe pen/bdm rig.. if you really wanted.

https://www.amazon.com/BDM-Frame-Assembly-Multifunctional-Programming/dp/B0F32MHR1B like this thing.

But unless you have never soldered before.. (even then tbh?) its probably cheaper to just solder.

[hollow matrix]

Probing usually we use after the die came from the fab

But the one on the picture is a toy

[keen bone]

yes.. and after googling what he would need it for.. sufficient

also because soldering dupont jumpers like this is an affront.

[old pike]

shudder

[keen bone]

duponts in general are an affront.

unless you've made them yourself with not-shit wires.

(i've noticed cheap jumper wire sets from china or etc are.. magnetic.. they have fucking iron core wires.)

[old pike]

this has been my experience, yes

[keen bone]

buut..

I have a lot of wire gained from 3dp hobby stuff and electronics hobby stuff..

so.. I just made my own jumper sets with nice FEP wires and etc. 😄

my collection recently expanded actually.. I should take a new picture its a little absurd now. 🙃

[old pike]

that's actually delicious looking

flashback to my EE dad's workshop

[hallow lance]

https://tenor.com/view/kotake1-кот-котек-gif-13234240668918235521

[keen bone]

its moved to wall hangers mostly

thats just the..24g and.. 28g i think

have some 16g ang 20g for heavier current carrying wire or AC mains chassis stuff..

[blazing hare]

this is what my wires look like - makes me giggle though as I am currently arguing with people at work about whether we can "get away" with 4/0 because 5/0 is just too much copper to bend...