#help-with-arduino

1 messages · Page 100 of 1

livid osprey
#

Or program start, anyways.

rocky schooner
#

1 000 000 micro seconds == 1 000 milli seconds == 1 second, right?

livid osprey
#

Yes

rocky schooner
#

Ok. I need it to chatch whether a toggle button bounced or not. How far are bounces away from each other?

#

I want to do denouncing in software

livid osprey
#

Depends on the button, but generally in the range of <20ms? I think debounce on gaming mice is usually set to somewhere between 4 and 10ms, but larger switches could have longer bounces...

rocky schooner
#

I tested it. Unwanted pushes took usually 40 to 80 milliseconds. I will just say you have to be slower than 100ms pause => no more than 10 pushes per second

gloomy sandal
#

hey,
i need some help. i built an arduino leonardo clone and wanted to program the bootloader with an arduino uno but every time i get the message "Expected signature for ATmega32U4 is 1E 95 87". can someone help me to burn the bootloader?

rotund kiln
#

Hello!

I'm trying to flash a D1 mini board and am running into difficulties. I feel like it's a bitrate issue, but cant find documentation on what to set it to.

I've tried a few different flashing apps, all of them time out. I tried opening a serial connection with Putty, and get a pile of gibberish.

Any thoughts/noob level troubleshooting tips?

north stream
north stream
gloomy sandal
#

does anyone know how to burn the bootloader onto an atmega32u4?

rotund kiln
#

Ive tried 15200, 19200, 14400 and 9600 (made sure to change my driver bitrate too) the output is just gibberish unicode characters, lots of s's, it looks like it's repeating in a loop

north stream
north stream
rotund kiln
#

Thanks! I'll see what I can figure out

stone stone
#

I have a bug in my Arduino code, and i cannot figure out what is causing the failure
I am running a Adafruit Feather RP2040.
im trying to make the Board Neopixel flash for debugging purposes. I am unable to get the light to function, based on the documentation, pin 27 is the proper pin to utilize the neopixel. but i could be wrong? i dont have a good understanding of Neopixel objects or functions. i couldnt find descriptions

code is shown bellow

Adafruit_NeoPixel pixel_Strip(6, 12, NEO_GRBW + NEO_KHZ800);
Adafruit_NeoPixel board_Pixel(1,27, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

void setup() {
#if defined(__AVR_ATtiny85__) && (F_CPU == 16000000)
  clock_prescale_set(clock_div_1);
#endif
  pixel_Strip.begin();
  board_Pixel.begin();
}


void loop() {
   pixel_Strip.clear(); // Only needed to zero out pixel sets
   board_Pixel.clear();
   board_Pixel.setPixelColor(0,board_Pixel.Color(0, 100, 0)); 
   board_Pixel.show();
  
  delay(DELAYVAL);
      for (int i = 0; i < NUMPIXELS; i++) {
        pixel_Strip.setPixelColor(i, pixel_Strip.Color(100,0,100, 0));
      pixel_Strip.show();
      }
  delay(DELAYVAL);
}
broken viper
stone stone
#

my apologies, i did import the library, i just gutted out all irrelevant code from my display here

broken viper
#

Mmmm

stone stone
#

i just read a few minutes ago, that you apearently should not run .show() for multiple pixel groups

#

assuming i understand whats going on

#

the reelvant code to trigger the Board Neopixel in Python is board.NEOPIXEL

#

however, im... not a fan of python and have been having a hard time using it, so i swapped back to uno since its similar to C which i do know

#

it is possible that it is not included in the Uno libraries yet?

broken viper
#

I don't know...

#

It should be

#

I've only worked with Neopixels in CP, so IDK

#

I'll look into it

stone stone
#

why thank you, thats very kind

#

im still blindly bumping around

#

ive bounced between Circuit python, found it hard to read, went back to Uno, only to painfully recall that most of adafruit is big on CiPy, so the support i get through uno, including libraries, not just people, is a fair bit more limited unforutnately

solemn cliff
stone stone
#

! perhaps i dont understand how these boards work, i thought the pixel was on PIN27 based on what i read?

#

GP16. general Pin 16?

#

well now i feel just silly!

#

that tracks based on the other pins i see yhere

solemn cliff
#

it's the GPIO number as the key says

stone stone
#

thank you very much. im still learning uh basic terms

solemn cliff
#

there's a lot of numbers on this pinout card, it's a little confusing 😛

stone stone
#

to clarify this is my first project ever using electronics

stone stone
#

update, was not able to get the pin to output... anything

brazen falcon
#

pin 27 refers to the physical pin number on the RP2040 chip itself

#

Though I have no real idea why it would be useful on this type of infographic and not a source of confusion

#

If I were trying to find that sort of information I'd go directly to the schematic not some user-friendly infographic.

stone stone
#

im very green

crude heart
#

anyone seen any xinput controller sketches?

#

I could only fine one pretty specific one but I'm looking more for a general controller layout kind of thing

#

(it's probably time to learn to write my own.)

stable forge
crude heart
#

looking into it

#

yes HID I think, but on a pro micro clone

#

first time using an arduino too. I got the xinput library loaded just fine and sent a hello world "blinking a button"

#

having trouble reseting my pro micro though, but I'll cross that bridge once I have a full control sketch to send it

#

I'll look into circuitpy but I think xinput might be a specific thing I need to work out of the box with Steam.

twilit hare
#

Good morning all. I'm working on an arduino library for an open source pcb... and I'm struggling to find the right IDE to use. Been alternating between VS Code and Notepad++... any suggestions?

north stream
#

I usually use vim or the Arduino IDE itself, but there are likely other good choices.

leaden walrus
#

i use VS Code for arduino lib dev. to edit source. but i'll have an arduino ide session going at same time for actual testing.

#

the arduino ide will be loaded with some test sketch

twilit hare
leaden walrus
#

when it comes to the text editor part of the setup, totally up to you. try a bunch and see what you like.

wheat crag
#

if you have a preferred IDE or text editor, you can also use the arduino IDE in external editor mode, then after editing, save the sketch with the text editor you use and upload the sketch from arduino as usual

jolly valve
#

I really like VS Code with the Arduino extension, overall it works very well

wise socket
wise socket
cedar mountain
wise socket
wise socket
quick hornet
#

Long shot, but does anyone know if there is an arduino library to decode CAN-BUS messages using a CAN database file?

north stream
round creek
#

I have used the library arduino-mcp2515 for CAN with decent success, and then writing my own set of functions for decoding messages

quick hornet
#

I will be reading in many different CAN-BUS packets. I am working to replace code that previously ran on a Raspberry Pi. That had a python library cantools that could load a DBC file and then decode the canbus packets into key value pairs.

#

I figured I'd have to make something custom to load DBC files from an SD card on the Teensy 4.1. My current plan is to figure how the python library decodes the packets and write similar code in C.

sonic pond
#

i have this https://www.spirithalloween.com/product/universal-step-pad-activator/45484.uts and want to detect it with an arduino. it seems its a simple piezo sensor and i was testing it with my multimeter and saw the voltage would go positive when pressed and negative for a second when released. my concern is that i understand the negative voltage can damage the arduino through the analog pin. i saw this example https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/BuiltInExamples/Knock and see the mention about the 1 megaohm resistor to protect the input. is that all i need to protect against these negative voltages?

north stream
#

I'll often use a large resistor (to limit current) and a zener diode (to limit voltage), but there are protection diodes within the Arduino as well. Piezo sensors can produce fairly high voltage in some circumstances, so I tend to lean toward extra protection.

sonic pond
#

Seems like it doesn't output more than around +/- 5v, even with all my weight jumping on it. So I'm mostly concerned with the negative voltages.

hollow flint
#

hi all: I have an application where I need to switch a pin, on the fly, between an analog output and an input (I just need the high impedance). On my metroM4 I can start the program as the input, but once I call analogWrite(A0,val) I can't pinMode(A0, INPUT); and get back to an input.

rough torrent
#

I'm purely guessing but maybe you need to analogWrite(A0, 0); or digitalWrite(A0, LOW); before setting it back to input???

hollow flint
#

@rough torrent thx but I can't ground it. it needs to float.

#

let me see if that works and it's real fast (tm)

rough torrent
#

Also, how are you determining that pinMode(A0, INPUT); is failing - the digitalRead isn't returning expected values??? If I recall correctly if you set a pin HIGH and change it to an INPUT it will still put out HIGH.

hollow flint
#

I'm trying to avoid pull up. I'm recording the trace. will share after I test.

#

yeah, it's staying in the last analogWrite state even if I try to digitalWrite low.

#

got it

#

don't use pinMode() at all

#

just go straight to analogRead()

rough torrent
#

I believe analogRead() will call pinMode by itself too

hollow flint
#

if I call pinMode at all it doesn't go to input. I need to give it a lone analogRead

north stream
#

It you want real fast, you're probably better off doing port manipulations than using the wrapper functions like analogRead() and pinMode()

hollow flint
#

yes, but I've shaved enough yaks for today

#

ok one more question

#

and if so does it apply to the DACs?

summer charm
#

For the life of me I cannot figure out how to install boards into the arduino IDE on Ubuntu 20.04, does anyone know?

elder spruce
#

Hello,
I am using the Adafruit Neotrellis M4 Express running John Parks's Classic MIDI Synth Controller sketch. Everything will be working as expected when suddenly it will become unresponsive and the normally purple led will turn red. If I unplug it and power it back up, it relaunches with the red led again and does not function. It will not work until I plug it back into the Arduino IDE and reload the code onto it.
Any idea what is happening here/how I can avoid this from happening?

north stream
nimble finch
#

Hi everyone!!! gus
I have a little question:
In a project, I am using a rotary encoder and it has a switch built in. When I press it once, the arduino believes that I pushed 2 or even 3 times. Sometimes it works fine, but only some hahaha. How can I solve this?? Thank you very much!

livid osprey
stone stone
#

@livid osprey here is a copy of some of the code im running with atm, and the error.

#

im going go go ahead and define the two pins im using for serial usage now

green thunder
#

Why not use the hardware serial?

stone stone
#

i could swap back to hardware serial. will Pins 6 and 5 on a FeatherRP2040 work for that job, will there be any additional interference with performance for doing so?

livid osprey
#

I don’t recall the pin out of the feather rp2040

stone stone
#

i can post it shortly

livid osprey
#

But rp2040 doesn’t use software serial.h

green thunder
#

Hardware serial has to be on 0 and 1

stone stone
green thunder
#

(I use the Philhower core also, if that matters)

livid osprey
#

‘#include "stdio.h"
#include "pico/stdlib.h"
#include "hardware/uart.h”’

stone stone
#

Current wire diagram for my project

Raygun_Mechanics_basic.png
#

i did drop one of the Miniboosts, but thats a minor change

nimble finch
stone stone
#

i was told i couldnt use the RP2040 RX and TX for the DF player?

#

perhaps that person was talking out their butt?

livid osprey
#

Serial2 in philhower core is defined as gp8 (pin 6) and gp9 (pin 9)

green thunder
#

Why? That doesn't sound right.

stone stone
#

are you ok with getting on voice chat?

#

it may save some time

livid osprey
green thunder
#

I can't right now, sorry

stone stone
#

fair

#

ok. so when i first started, i had the Board TX -> RX and board RX -TX

#

but i was told htat wiring was way off and wouldnt work

#

it seemed oubvious right?

livid osprey
#

I don’t understand why someone would say that wouldn’t work, but go on.

stone stone
#

i got told to move the TX RX to a digital set of pins, so i did

green thunder
#

As far as I can tell, you should be able to use HW serial. On the feather rp2040, that's GPIO 0 and 1 (don't remember the feather pin names). And yeah, you wire TX-> RX and vice versa

stone stone
#

well brilliant then. and id declare Hardware serial to use those two pins properly yeah?

green thunder
#

Can't remember the header name, but yeah, include the arduino non-software serial header, and then setup with Serial1.begin(115200);

stone stone
#

ty

#

one additional thing, i recognize my RP2040 is a self contained system, but is it possible for it to read back activities through the USB for debuggin purposes?

#

the original code here that im adjusting has Serial.println(F("messages"); in it, and that would be supremely useful for future projects, esp as this one gets more complicated

green thunder
#

You can communicate with your PC over the USB port using Serial. In fact, in the arduino terminal window, you can send strings over to your microcontroller by typing them into the text box at the top.

stone stone
#

thats beautiful. DEBUGGIN MODE HIYOOOO

green thunder
#

You can also write scripts on your PC (for example in Python) to do more complex serial comms

#

if I recall correctly I was able to send 63 bytes max per string using terminal text input

stone stone
#

most of my current project goals are self contained non delaying light and sound props with switch control. so for now, advanced cross communication is not super important. but knowing where my code breaks down is!

#

Serial isnt part of the SoftwareSerial.h package? the one i cant use?

green thunder
#

You don't need SoftwareSerial at all

stone stone
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oh good.

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well im swapping out softwareserial for hardwareserial so i can use RX and TX to control the DF player

green thunder
#

On the RP2040, Serial and Serial1 are already defined for you 😄

#

for Serial1 just wire up your other serial device to the RX/TX pins and you're good to go

stone stone
#

ok, im going to made the written adjustments here, afterward, i will ask for a quick code review?

green thunder
#

I may not be able to look at it right away (dinner on the way 🥩) but I can try to look at it later

livid osprey
#

Honestly, earl philehower core defines serial2 as well…

green thunder
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Though the pins are mapped to dummies, so it's not really usable

#

(for the Feather anyway)

livid osprey
#

Serial is usb, serial1 is gp0 and gp1, and serial2 is gp8 and gp9. If you need more, there are libraries for creating more serial ports as well

green thunder
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Nice

livid osprey
#

Serial2? Pins are mapped to 6 and 9…

stone stone
#

oh derp

#

im sorry, im heavily miss understanding a lot of stuff here

green thunder
#

Oh I looked at the pins header in the feather variant awhile ago and could've sworn they were mapped to 31

stone stone
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ive moved my Board -> DF player wires

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based on what you said about RX and TX being perfectly suited for this job (which frees up pin 6 and 8)

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so ive moved over to GP01, GP02 (TX and RX on the 2040)

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ive added the hardwareSerial to header now. ok all i need now is to know how to translate Baudrate information. because ima level with you, ive seen baud rate a lot in my 3d printing stuff, and i have NO CLUE what any of it means. but best guess is some sort of communication speed protocol

livid osprey
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You would be correct.

stone stone
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yay for learning through osmosis. as much as you can commit to osmosis through a brick for a brain 🙂

#

did i label 6-9 right?
on lines 16 and 17 it looks like they are defining BAUD rate through softwareserial (which im replacing)
so i assume for 8 and 9 id put 115200?
https://puu.sh/Igxx0/38ff6c8cce.png

green thunder
stone stone
#

this Philhower Core... how does that tie into what im suing here with Arduino RP2040?

livid osprey
stone stone
#

is it a different "package"?

livid osprey
#

And they should both be default values for serial1 already

#

You don’t need serial2

stone stone
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so dont need to define Serial values at all?

livid osprey
livid osprey
stone stone
#

alright. so i wont be defining RP2040 TX or RX. and i have them linked to their pairs across the DF player.

#

from here i just... run program?

#

no definitions ? no baudrates? nothin?

green thunder
# livid osprey Should be 0 and 1, not 2 and 3

Here's all the serial defines for the feather in the pins_arduino.h file:

// Serial
#define PIN_SERIAL1_TX (0u)
#define PIN_SERIAL1_RX (1u)

// Not pinned out
#define PIN_SERIAL2_TX (31u)
#define PIN_SERIAL2_RX (31u)

I guess the pins for Serial don't need to be defined here

stone stone
#

actually lines 16 and 17 probably will still be borked

livid osprey
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Nope

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Oh you do need begin and baud

stone stone
#

bugger.

green thunder
#

Also for what it's worth, there are definitely issues with some of the Philhower pinouts. I recently had to submit a fix to get both of the I2C ports working correctly on the ItsyBitsy

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(Though Serial1 should be good to go 👍 )

livid osprey
#

Idk what the baud rate is on the music player, but you just match it.

stone stone
#

feather RP2040 is relatively new, so it explains a lot why there are so many.. missing items that are making my life... difficult

#

aside from being greener then a tree borne banana

green thunder
#

Yeah I've been playing with it a lot the last few weeks (particularly the feather and the qt py) so some of these issues are still pretty fresh on my mind lol

stone stone
#

ok, rewired TX RX to their pairs on the DF player

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added 1k resistors as advised to both pins beforehand

stone stone
#

do i just say
myHardwareSerial.begin(9600);
serial1.begin(115200) ;
serial2.begin(115200)

#

assuming i understand whats going on...

green thunder
#

all you need is:

# 
Serial.begin(115200); // If you want to talk to your PC over USB serial)
Serial1.begin(115200); // To talk to your DF player
stone stone
#

id def like to do that

green thunder
#

that's assuming that 115200 is the baud rate that the DF player uses

stone stone
#

it is

#

ok. time to tell the little machine of metal and energy the magic words so it talks to me...

#

magic machine talks at 9600

#

Failed to work

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says
serial1.begin(9600);
Serial.begin(115200);

are softwareSerial commands, which dont work on the RP2040 from what i can see

#

so i have to swap those two out somehow

livid osprey
#

‘#include "stdio.h"
#include "pico/stdlib.h"
#include "hardware/uart.h”’

#

Try these instead of softwareserial.h

pine bramble
#

Anyone have experience with the AFBNO085? I keep getting this error when using the quaternion_yaw_pitch_roll example. I'm just connecting it using the qwiic connector. First it randomly resets and then it won't reconnect when resetting the microcontroller board

Screen_Shot_2021-10-06_at_4.57.45_PM.png
stone stone
fringe shard
#

Hi I'm working with Justin Trouble Again and im trying to help him with these serial issues.

#

I'm reading the arduino-pico docs and I see Serial is the USB serial port, and while Serial.begin() does allow specifying a baud rate, this rate is ignored since it is USB-based. (Also be aware that this USB Serial port is responsible for resetting the RP2040 during the upload process, following the Arduino standard of 1200bps = reset to bootloader).

#

So it completely ignores the baud rate

livid osprey
#

Probably still need a baud rate for Serial1 though.

fringe shard
#

Yea

#

From what i understand

#

I can create a UART on Serial2

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For printing ot the serial monitor

#

But the Serial itself doesnt do that

green thunder
#

Can you adjust the baud rate of the DF Player to 115200?

livid osprey
#

I doubt it

green thunder
#

And yeah that does ring a bell, I think the baud rate you pass in to begin is ignored on most non-avr architectures

#

though I've not had issues using the hardware serial to communicate with lower baud rates 🤔

stone stone
#

me and Fane are in voice chat discussing this and watching me code it up

#

let me know if you would like to join us

stone stone
livid osprey
#

As appreciative of you guys for the invitation, I'll pass for now. While I do try to make myself available for assistance, I usually try to help people get over larger hurdles as a reference, rather than get involved with all the details and development.

#

If you get stuck, feel free to reach out!

stone stone
#

valid

#

im getting stuck a lot lol

green thunder
#

Yeah I'm kind of in the same boat. At this point, if there's no way to adjust the rate of the DF player itself (i see references here and there of things saying it's possible, but nothing that says how), and if it won't work with the RP2040, then this will definitely be a bit of a hairy one to solve

stone stone
#

if it doesnt work with the RP2040 ill have to swap out boards :/

#

or finally embrace CPy, since you can run Mp3s right off of the rp2040

green thunder
#

Might be the case, if your only options are arduino + DF player

livid osprey
#

RP2040 can't run at 9600?

stone stone
#

it cant? x.x?

green thunder
#

I'm looking at the Philhower core, and as far as I can tell you should be able to actually 🤔

#

all you should need to do then is change Serial1.begin(115200); to Serial1.begin(9600);

#

You might not be able to change the baud rate for the USB serial, but you should absolutely be able to for Serial1

livid osprey
#

Oh, nvm you said IF

#

Misread.

#

Sorry.

green thunder
#

To be fair I've had a bit of a hard time following along lol. Here's what I can tell from the code: @fringe shard is correct that for the USB serial connection (i.e. Serial in Arduino) on RP2040, the baud rate passed to begin is indeed ignored:

void SerialUSB::begin(unsigned long baud) {
    (void) baud; //ignored

    if (_running) {
        return;
    }

    _running = true;
}
#

However, we're concerned with Serial1 here, and that's a different story: it uses SerialUART, not SerialUSB

#

And the implementation for SerialUART is not empty. Thus, I concluded you should be able to set Serial1 to 9600 bps, and it should be able to work with the DF Player.

stone stone
#

should x.x

livid osprey
#

I’d be surprised if it didn’t

stone stone
#

ive been at the sound part for six hours or so now

#

and im not making much progress at all. im frustrated friends.

livid osprey
#

Have you established a serial connection yet?

stone stone
#

in regards to board - PC communications?

livid osprey
#

Board to dfplayer

stone stone
#

i do not know.

#

i do have power to the board ->DF atleast

livid osprey
#

Is it wired to your amplifier and speaker?

stone stone
#

OH HECK

#

I JUST WIRED IT TO MY 5V INTAKE POWER AND NOW I GOT A RED LIGHT ON THE DF PLAYER

livid osprey
#

Relax

stone stone
#

thats new!

#

sorry !

livid osprey
#

6 hours for audio, huh?

#

Maybe I should pop into this voice call or whatever...

#

That's an awfully long time for one component.

stone stone
#

i know, im sorry. im .. not very smart, i just work really hard

#

and i hate needing so much help

livid osprey
#

No it's fine, it's not exactly the easiest thing to do, and most people would've given up faster than you did

#

Help is always okay to ask for

stone stone
#

it just eats a lot of time and patience from people

livid osprey
#

Do you need more help?

stone stone
#

yes please.

#

id like to do this proceedurally from here. eliminate variables

livid osprey
#

So your goal is to get pewpew sounds out of your speakers.

#

You have all of the hardware components?

stone stone
#

Yes, bare minimum. i have crab rave installed so i can hear that and know its working lol
i have a feather RP2040 headered up, a DF player. amplifier is available if required, i also have several kinds of speakers

#

as is a mini booster

livid osprey
#

Okay, so what is your current roadblock?

stone stone
#

no sound emission. i think having com4 port communicate back println would be helpful, but i have not had success there

#

so perhaps the first goal should be feather-pc communication?

livid osprey
#

No sound emission from your speaker?

#

PC comms would help with debugging

stone stone
#

none. confirmed voltage through aligators however

livid osprey
#

But you can hear crab rave?

#

Oh nvm

#

So you have crabrave.mp3 and you're trying to hear it.

stone stone
#

correct

#

all items in df player must be labeled 0001,0002, exc to be picked up

livid osprey
#

I would wire up your amplifier and speaker to make sure you can hear your result, since I'm not sure your bare boards can handle the low resistance of a single speaker.

#

But if you want to start with USB serial, we can start there.

stone stone
#

that seems advisable.

#

afterward i can route the DF player to the class D audio amp (PAM8503 i believe)

livid osprey
#

Okay. Do you have serial.begin()

#

And try printing to it?

stone stone
#

i have

# 
Serial.begin(115200);
    Serial.println();
    Serial.println(F("DFRobot DFPlayer Mini Demo"));
    Serial.println(F("Initializing DFPlayer ... (May take 3~5 seconds)"));
livid osprey
#

Does your serial monitor receive any data?

stone stone
#

Com port 4 opens serial port, no data files away though

#

Confirming we now have sound

#

im just getting a rapid beep noise though

#

no feed from serial port though

livid osprey
#

Can you try removing the F(...)? I think that's specific to AVR.

stone stone
#

ok

livid osprey
#

RP2040 doesn't need that IIRC

green thunder
#

Shouldn't hurt though

north stream
#

Maybe add a delay before the first print too

green thunder
#

Oh yeah good point

#

It seems to take some time on RP2040 for the USB serial port to be ready

stone stone
#

done

green thunder
#

I think you need to remove the

Serial1.setRX(3);
Serial1.setTX(2);

lines

#

Those aren't the correct pins, and Serial1 should already be using the correct pins without having to call setRX and setTX

stone stone
#

we have made progress

livid osprey
#

Wait, so serial1 is completely disabled?

#

Or did you just remove the setRX/TX commands?

stone stone
livid osprey
#

Oh phew

#

Alright, now let's try hooking up the amplifier to the DFPlayer

stone stone
#

minor positive, have consistent mini jackhammer noise from DFplayer

#

i assume this is due to lacking power needed to play?

livid osprey
#

Might be an impedance issue, let's just move onto the amplifier+speaker configuration

#

YEah power might be insufficient to drive the speaker

stone stone
#

moment, serial port communication isnt working any more

livid osprey
#

Are you uploading code?

stone stone
#

no, had to unplock and replug to get a reaction

livid osprey
#

Odd. USB serial ports have done weirder things before though, so let's turn our attention to sound first

stone stone
#

additional notes: we have semi success with USB communication now. good.
the speaker makes a mini jackhammer noise consistently from the moment it is plugged into the device

#

but yes, lets move on to sound

#

i have a class D audio amplifer here.. but im uncertain how to wire it through the DF player

#

Vin and Gnd seem self explanatory atleast. A and A- along with SD are not as much

livid osprey
#

Try A+ to DAC_L and A- to GND

stone stone
#

working on cabling now

#

minor aside, do i need to adjust my code for this?

livid osprey
#

No?

green thunder
#

Shouldn't need to

stone stone
#

ok. good to know. theres no additional software behavior, only electrical

livid osprey
#

Your DFPlayer is already trying to play music, we're just giving it some hardware on its outputs

stone stone
#

White is ground in this case

#

Normally I'd use black but my neopixel strip used white for ground so I've kept consistency

#

Oh and for reference here is my feather

20211006_221544.jpg
#

im not pluggin this in until i get a green light lol

livid osprey
#

Sorry was afk

#

Sure, give it a spin

stone stone
#

Yeer

#

Bruh you arnt going to beleive this, but my speakers are picking up extremely garbled radio signals like you would from an untuned fm or am radio

#

I have to hold it to my ear to hear, but it's kinda wild

livid osprey
#

Hm?

stone stone
#

I'm serious.

fringe shard
#

that can happen from poor insulation I think

#

I know guitar amps can have that issue

stone stone
#

However. It's 11pm my time, so I'm hanging this up till tomorrow

#

Oh fane, we succeeded with serial connection and message postinf

fringe shard
#

i saw

stone stone
#

Oh good ^_^

But yes. I'm exausted. I was at this from 3 ? 5pm? Till now

#

I need rest

livid osprey
#

Aight, I looked at the schematic for the dfplayer, and I think you need a resistor to connect dac_L to the amplifier. In fact, the internal wiring on the dfplayer seems to wire both l and r through a pair of 22k resistors to the onboard amplifier.

Get some rest. Feel free to ping me tomorrow when you’re ready to experiment further…

stone stone
errant totem
#

Hey can anyone point me in the direction for reading how to get a esp to send a HTTP post to a url based on a sensor or a pin state. In the simplest possible way.
I have found a web based api tester to send code to an app. I just don't know the best way to implement it and so far reading I have just gotten confused with people outlining much more complicated projects.
This is what I'm using it for at the moment, beer 😌
https://docs.brewfather.app/integrations/custom-stream

Custom Stream
livid osprey
errant totem
#

Thanks @livid osprey

stone stone
#

"fully supports FAT16 , FAT32 file system, maximum support 32G of the TF card, support 32G of U disk, 64M bytes NORFLASH"

#

is there any chance my SD card is wonk?

livid osprey
#

Yes, but unless you have a physical crack down the middle, it's usually salvageable with a reformat.

#

What kind of SD are you using?

stone stone
#

micro SD 128MB

livid osprey
#

Reformat as a FAT16 (or FAT) and try again?

stone stone
#

sounds decent

#

my loopCounter increment is killing the first letter every loop

#

cute, but like, what

livid osprey
#

Haha, the plus sign does weird things when you try to add two different types.

stone stone
#

thats... unusual

#

put the print on another line?

livid osprey
#

Either cast loopCounter to String or put it in its own print() after.

stone stone
#

ill do so

#

and we are certain my wire up is correct?

livid osprey
#

Nope

stone stone
#

im going to be reassembling the debug code that the example had that used the softwareSerial to Hardware serial

livid osprey
#

BUt I'm willing to experiment

#

Did you try adding resistors?

stone stone
#

great, ill take a photo of my layout for you in a few.
i have

livid osprey
#

What size?

#

Er, value.

stone stone
#

i added 1k Resistors to the Feather -> DF RX and TX connections

livid osprey
#

Do you have any larger resistors?

#

The internal amp used 22k, so you probably want to aim for at least 10k

stone stone
#

i should have some, but not at my day job desk

#

im currently multitasking

livid osprey
#

You could also try Serial.printf("Loop Counter: %u \n", loopCounter);

#

This used to be the standard way to get other datatypes into strings back in the old days of C haha

#

%u indicates an unsigned integer, and takes the corresponding variable argument in the function and inserts it into the string before printing it to your console.

stone stone
#

i was about to ask what that part meant. if memory serves \n is new line

livid osprey
#

Yes, since there's no println equivalent for printf

#

At least one I'm aware of

stone stone
#

programing is magic filled with an endless number of magic words and incantations.

#

or it atleast fels that way to me lol

green thunder
#

String handling in C is a nightmare frankly 😩

stone stone
#

i can live with the counter issue, i am however, rather frustrated by the failure of the DF player

#

based on the debugger, it isnt properly being assigned to the Serial1?

livid osprey
#

You might need some time between starting serial1 and starting myDFPlayer. Try adding a delay or a while(!Serial1);?

stone stone
#

got it, will do!

stone stone
#

your printline code worked btw! thank you

#

also update

#

i put a 1 second pause in to check

#

so it goes "attempt to connect" Boop boop
attempt to connect Boop Boop...
ad infintium

#

id hope that means my wire layout is atleast correct

#

@livid osprey ... so in your opinion, should we give up, and swap to Cpy .mp3 player and systems? i dont think im smart enough to figure this out, and those that are able to reed through this likely wouldnt want to bother

livid osprey
#

Send another pic of your wiring?

stone stone
#

sure moment

#

id draw it up too, but that will take a min

livid osprey
#

What kind of serial resistors are you using?

stone stone
#

1ks there

livid osprey
#

take em out?

#

Usually if you add resistors at all, they're <100ohms

#

Try direct connection without the resistors and see if you get serial

stone stone
#

will do

#

i also realized at 3.3v im probably at the lower end of what can run on this

#

still getting the two pulses per second situation

livid osprey
#

OH

#

Right, the amplifier can draw some current too. If you have a multimeter, you should check that voltage...

stone stone
#

i have a hair brained idea

#

im going to pass the power through a mini booster to raise us up to 5v in

#

if this is just a voltage problem, that may solve it

#

im getting a consistent whining noise at 5v, along with the "boop boop" now

#

so its a lot louder atleast lol

livid osprey
#

But is your serial connection working?

#

I thought that was our focus rn

stone stone
#

no, says attempting to connect and failing the pass attempt.

#

assuming my code is working as its supposed to

#

for reference

#

im going to draw up a wire diagram to make things easier to follow as well

#

i need to eat lunch bbs

livid osprey
# 
while(Serial1.available()>0) {
    Serial.print(Serial1.read());
}```
Okay, insert this snippet into your other while loop when you get a chance.
stone stone
#

got a work meeting so wont be available for a bit

stone stone
#

Had to take out the A- and take the df to straight ground

livid osprey
#

Ooooo not bad

#

I think a resistor between A+ and DAC will clean up the noise some

stone stone
#

I fixed that atleast

fiery horizon
#

Does anyone happen to know what the button pin is for the on board button for the Adafruit Glasses Driver Board?

#

nevermind, I figured out it's pin 4 lol

frank meadow
#

Hi guys, I have a feather M4 express and am trying to program it, but the feather won't show up as a drive or on the arduino IDE. I'm on MacOS 15.4. would anyone be able to help me?
And the cable I'm using can transfer data

#

couldn't find a feather channel but im assuming this channel is all good

frank meadow
#

just tried on a windows PC with a different cable and still had no luck? anyone know of anything i might need to do for it to work?

pine bramble
frank meadow
#

That’s the issue, I can’t get it to show up in either the arduino ide or as a removable drive, even through check device manager, I have tried multiple cables too and I’ve tried on a windows pc and a mac

#

I’ve installed all the relevant software for the board on both OS's (or at least i think)

pine bramble
#

Did you enter the url for the board manager?

#

Then install the board specific software?

#

I did it with a Mac just yesterday following those instructions

#

It’s weird that it doesn’t show up. Does it get power? Like does the LED light up?

frank meadow
#

yup gets power, neopixel is green that slowly flashes/dimms

#

when i enter bootloader mode the neopixel goes red

#

tried multiple cables with it

pine bramble
#

Can you send a screenshot of your boards tab under tools?

frank meadow
#

on windows its greyed out

#

oh boards?

pine bramble
#

Yeah board manager or whatever it’s called

frank meadow
#

two seconds

#

ideally i'd use circuit python

pine bramble
#

Ah. Don’t have any experience with that

frank meadow
#

uhh i can't filter by installed

#

hang on

#

I've got the default boards, the Arduino SAMD boards, and the adafruit SAMD boards

pine bramble
#

Hm I was using the Adafruit SAMD

#

And then select feather m4 express

frank meadow
#

same here

#

the ports section is greyed out though

pine bramble
#

Yeah I had that too. Once you try to upload a program try spamming the reboot button and upload again

#

Not sure why that worked

#

The port eventually shows up

#

Or at least it did for me

#

Maybe you can try on Mac?

#

For windows have you tried installing the CH340 drivers?

frank meadow
#

haven't

#

you recommend i do the so?

frank meadow
pine bramble
#

But I can only speak from the Mac perspective

#

Okay I managed to make it disappear from my ports as well. Only have Bluetooth again

#

Double clicking the boot button made it reappear

#

Going to try to recreate it again

frank meadow
#

yeah when i put it in boot mode i get a red light, and the board isn't detected at all, not even as a USB

#

like before

#

have considered the possibility of it not being a good board, I got it off ebay since adafruit doesn't ship where i live

pine bramble
#

This is all I got

#

Sorry I can’t help more than that

#

Not sure if any of the other settings matter

#

Maybe others can help you more tomorrow. Good luck!

frank meadow
#

thanks a bunch man

stable forge
# frank meadow thanks a bunch man

If you double-click the reset button, does FEATHERBOOT show up as a drive? The red LED (not the NeoPixel) next to the USB socket should pulse slowly (about once a second). If it pulses quickly, then the board is not seeing a USB connection.

frank meadow
#

wait sorry wrong thing

#

I'll check in a few minutes sorry

stable forge
brave maple
#

with arduino and a pair of Adafruit Neopixel Neomatrices, how would you get the arduino to display a pair of simple animated eyes (literally just 2 circles animated to blink at random)? I've gotten my code to have the matrices be in a tiled format thanks to basing it off of the example tile code provided in Arduino's example libraries

#

I've been looking for a good tutorial but have yet to find one that explains what to do

livid osprey
#

It's not quite the same thing, so there may be some minor adjustments here or there...

brave maple
#

I don't know if it'll not work if I don't include #include "Adafruit_LEDBackpack.h"

#

The code I currently have is slightly modified from one of the examples:

#include <Adafruit_NeoMatrix.h>
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
#ifndef PSTR
 #define PSTR // Make Arduino Due happy
#endif

#define PIN 6

Adafruit_NeoMatrix matrix = Adafruit_NeoMatrix(16, 8, 3, 1, PIN,
  NEO_TILE_RIGHT  + NEO_TILE_LEFT   + NEO_TILE_COLUMNS   + NEO_TILE_PROGRESSIVE +
  NEO_MATRIX_RIGHT + NEO_MATRIX_LEFT + NEO_MATRIX_COLUMNS,
  NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

const uint16_t colors[] = {
  matrix.Color(255, 50, 0), matrix.Color(0, 255, 0), matrix.Color(0, 0, 255) };

void setup() {
  matrix.begin();
  matrix.setTextWrap(false);
  matrix.setBrightness(40);
  matrix.setTextColor(colors[0]);
}

int x    = matrix.width();
int pass = 0;

void loop() {
  matrix.fillScreen(0);
  matrix.setCursor(x, 0);
  matrix.print(F("0"));
  if(--x < -36) {
    x = matrix.width();
    if(++pass >= 3) pass = 0;
    matrix.setTextColor(colors[pass]);
  }
  matrix.show();
  delay(100);
}```
livid osprey
#

I think you'd be using neopixel.h and neomatrix.h instead

#

Oh

#

yeah that

#

The loop function is designed to marquee whatever text you put in the matrix.print(...); You would probably want to draw some eye bitmaps and switch between the bitmaps

brave maple
#

Would I need the loop function if my plan is to have the two circles (one circle per matrix) be animated to randomly blink?

livid osprey
#

You would probably be rewriting it from scratch.

brave maple
#

okay; and to check, a bitmap would be this style of code?

{
  B00000000,
  B00111100,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00111100,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00111100,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B01111110,
  B01111110,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B01111110,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00111100
},{
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000,
  B00000000
}};
const int IMAGES_LEN = sizeof(IMAGES)/8;```
livid osprey
#

Yup

brave maple
#

okay; and the only included libraries i would need if I were to try again with the provided tutorial would be Adafruit_GFX.h, Adafruit_NeoMatrix.h, Adafruit_NeoPixel.h, and Wire.h?

livid osprey
#

Should be, as far as I recall

brave maple
#

okay 👍 I'll try again with the tutorial and see what I can accomplish from there^^ thank you!

#

okay, already running into some problems with trying to treat NeoMatrices the same way as the LED backpacks

Adafruit_8x8matrix matrix = Adafruit_8x8matrix(); Doesn't appear to work when I check it and neither does Adafruit_NeoMatrix matrix = Adafruit_NeoMatrix();

livid osprey
#

Nah, you should be keeping the same NeoMatrix constructor from the other demo.

#

Adafruit_Neomatrix() has a lot of args to properly define the matrix.

# 
Adafruit_NeoMatrix matrix = Adafruit_NeoMatrix(16, 8, 3, 1, PIN,
  NEO_TILE_RIGHT  + NEO_TILE_LEFT   + NEO_TILE_COLUMNS   + NEO_TILE_PROGRESSIVE +
  NEO_MATRIX_RIGHT + NEO_MATRIX_LEFT + NEO_MATRIX_COLUMNS,
  NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
#

@brave maple

brave maple
#

@livid osprey okay 👍 those should still be in place

#

currently, I have

#include <Adafruit_NeoMatrix.h>
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
#include <Wire.h>


#define PIN 6

Adafruit_NeoMatrix matrix = Adafruit_NeoMatrix(16, 8, 3, 1, PIN,
  NEO_TILE_RIGHT  + NEO_TILE_LEFT   + NEO_TILE_COLUMNS   + NEO_TILE_PROGRESSIVE +
 NEO_MATRIX_RIGHT + NEO_MATRIX_LEFT + NEO_MATRIX_COLUMNS,
 NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

const uint16_t colors[] = {
  matrix.Color(255, 50, 0)};

void setup() {
  matrix.begin();
  matrix.drawRect(0, 0, 8, 8);
  //matrix.setTextColor(colors[0]);
}```

It gives me an error when it checks the drawRect function
#

and reading the tutorial, I'm not exactly sure how to get it to recognize each matrix to draw a circle on each since the Adafruit_8x8matrix function doesn't work with NeoMatrixes

livid osprey
#

Oh, NeoMatrix only has drawPixel and fillScreen...

brave maple
#

aaaaah; im guessing that's why finding tutorials for them was such a long hunt then

#

would it be better to save up and switch to the LED backpacks for this project?

#

I'm using an Arduino Uno for the "brains" of this project

livid osprey
#

That's up to you. This is definitely doable with a neomatrix, but you'll have to utilize a different set of libraries to get to where you need. Adafruit_GFX should have the drawRect and related graphics primitives, I'm just not sure how to inherit it off the top of my head...

#

I don't know if there's a good tutorial to reference for this, but this example should have all the code snippets you need to accomplish your blinking eyes.

#

With some modifications, of course...

brave maple
#

Okay, I'll be sure to check it out 👍

livid osprey
#

Be sure to take your time, there's a LOT to digest in this example.

brave maple
#

I'll be sure to read, thank you^^

burnt jackal
#

Hey
Does anyone by chance have an example of plugging a USB mouse into a pi pico using TinyUSB?

#

ultimately I want to convert a USB mouse to a Serial mouse for use on old PC's.
I know it can be done with a PS/2 mouse but getting a halfway decent PS/2 mouse today, is easier said than done.

sinful saffron
#

Does anyone have a recommended chip to program an Atmega2560 ? Was looking at the FT232RL but that appears to be out of stock everywhere

gilded swift
#

ch340g/c

gilded swift
sinful saffron
#

I plan on using the ISCP header to program the "Mega" from another Mega

#

and just upload programs via the UART

#

so, just the chip essentially though

gilded swift
#

it's a painfully cheap USB to Serial chip

#

that one should omit the need for an external OSC

sinful saffron
#

I don't mind a little bit more pricey if it works with the Arduino IDE and does the reseting of the Atmega (if that's how it's needed to be done to upload a program)

gilded swift
#

the CH340C works with arduino

sinful saffron
#

basically trying to put a Mega on a custom board

gilded swift
#

most of the arduino clones use it

sinful saffron
#

gotcha

gilded swift
#

Arduino doesn't necessarily care if you're using an FT232R or a CH340, or whatever USB to Serial Chip

#

so long as it can see the COM port and get back responses from the MCU through the COM port

sinful saffron
#

does it not need to throw the reset pin high on the chip though?

#

in addition to the TX/RX

#

or is that part of the UART protocol

gilded swift
#

it's part of the payload that arduino sends to the USB to Serial adapter

#

but basically you'd hook up reset on the chip you want to program to the DTR pin of the CH340

sinful saffron
#

and gotcha, I see the DTR pin

gilded swift
#

FTDI are great but they are hard to come by. in fact I have 3 FT232H that i'm just sitting on because i'm afraid to ruin them with them being in short supply

#

and some FPGA chips that they are meant to program

sinful saffron
#

yeah, this chip shortage is crazy

gilded swift
#

yeah, i finished designing a hackable Bluetooth smart watch today and can't build it because the nRF52811 isn't available until April next year at the earliest

sinful saffron
#

like, oh, this chip works great (goes to look it up) not available

gilded swift
#

yeah, i'm just going to sit on the design till i can get the chips

sinful saffron
#

wonder if they have a solder-able version of the CP2102

gilded swift
#

not likely

#

it's probably just going to be some QFN package

#

which you could solder with a hot plate or a hot air gun

sinful saffron
#

haven't gotten to that stage of doing that quite yet

#

at least as reliably as hand soldering

gilded swift
#

it's all about having a good stencil and good paste

sinful saffron
#

true, though, I probably did the worst project possible to try it out on to begin with lol

#

some of the LEDs that were like 3mm across

#

melted the edges

#

not pretty

gilded swift
#

Sparkfun also makes a CH340 breakout

sinful saffron
#

guess it's been pretty well tested then

gilded swift
#

Oh yes, there are people here that refuse to use FTDI chips due to “brick gate” that happened a number of years ago when FTDI started bricking illegal clones through a driver update

sinful saffron
#

yeah, not a fan of that either, I understand where they were coming from, but normal users didn't even know they were using clones half the time

#

seems like a lot companies are locking their chips down and using serial based locking and such

gilded swift
#

Yeah. I like FTDI for the consistency but I’m exploring new options with the chip shortage

sinful saffron
#

what about Cypress?

gilded swift
#

Never used their chips but I imagine they are fine

sinful saffron
#

gotcha

#

think I'll give them a try lol

gilded swift
#

But if you want dirt cheap that works very well, CH340C

sinful saffron
#

just need one chip so it's all good either way, but thanks!

gilded swift
#

👍🏻

brazen falcon
#

CH340 is pretty hand-solder-friendly

#

SOT16 IIRC

prime nacelle
#

Anyone using Adafruit AHRS NXP library?

leaden lynx
#

I am getting a strange error code when I try to upload code to my Circuit Playground BT:

Arduino: 1.8.16 (Windows 10), Board: "Adafruit Circuit Playground" : avrdude: butterfly_recv(): programmer is not responding

I don't have any problem uploading code to my UNO; and I have the right Port and Board selected; I have updated the IDE and libraries; and restarted my computer; and pulled out quite a bit of my own hair - but nothing seems to help. Does anyone have any advice for me?

stable forge
leaden lynx
stable forge
#

Add this in the Preferences dialog if you haven't already (it's available for copying in the board guide)

unknown.png
#

Do the last thing first, then the Adafruit packages will show up

leaden lynx
# stable forge

I think it is working! Thank you... I didn't have the correct board options!! Thank you

green thunder
#

For some reason I can't seem to use the LED glasses and the WiiChuck breakout board on the same I2C port 😢

stable forge
green thunder
#

3.3v

#

I just managed to get it to work on the Feather RP2040, but it doesn't work unless I initialize the WiiChuck library first 🤔

#

I'm going to try and see if I have the same result on the nRF glasses driver

#

No dice there

#

Unfortunately I'm having a separate issue where Serial doesn't seem to work either on all of my nRF52840 MCUs which is making it hard to debug the issue lol

#

(Or maybe the issues are related? no idea)

stable forge
green thunder
stable forge
#

your videos are great! I passed them on to other staff

green thunder
#

Oh thanks! 😮

odd willow
#

Hello! Noob question here..
I have a 5V two pin ventilator and I simply want it to work 10 seconds and after that pause 10 seconds (in a loop). But I just can't find out how to make it work. Google isn't my friend either. Someone who can help me out with a simple code?

stable forge
#

The "Blink" example is very close to what you want. But is this a fan or some other power-hungry thing? You can't drive it directly from a pin, but you could use a transistor or relay to turn it on and off.

#

you want to do this in Arduino?

odd willow
#

It's a fan comparable to this one. I want to control it by arduino cause in the end it has to be a part of a larger project. But first I wanted to make the fan work. Do I understand it right that I need to give the fan an external power source?

Schermafbeelding_2021-10-10_om_20.25.24.png
#

(I hoped because it is a 5V fan it could get it's power directly from the arduino but I guess I was wrong?)

stable forge
#

depending on its current requirements, you could run it from the 5v pin, but you can't control it with a logic pin.

#

you can't run it directly from a logic pin: they don't supply enough current

lavish arch
#

Any quick and easy way to profile an Arduino sketch? Need to figure out how much time is spent on different sections in the main loop. Running on a Pybadge if that makes any difference

odd willow
#

Thanks @stable forge I'm gonna try it with a relay! 😄

stable forge
#

check the relay specs about how much current it needs. You can also use a FET transistor

stable forge
# odd willow Thanks <@!329766224093249548> I'm gonna try it with a relay! 😄

https://forum.arduino.cc/t/basic-question-usb-cable-relay-and-5v-fan/909397

Arduino Forum
Basic question, usb cable, relay, and 5v fan

Just wanting to check if the following is OK to do, or if I'm likely to melt/explode something/someone. Have not used a relay before! I want to power a tiny 5v fan, in a cabinet. When the door is closed the fan is on, but turns off while the door is open. The problem is the fan draws 150ma. I figure this means I need to power it externally fro...

#

many other similar projects

odd willow
#

thank you! This helps!

frank meadow
#

Am I able to use an arduino uno with the feather wing OLED board? Right now I’ve wired SDA, SCL and the GND pins, but will I be ok to wire the 3V pin on the featherwing to the 3.3V pin on the arduino or will I run into some issues?

#

If there another pin I should wire it to instead?

green thunder
#

I think you want to power it with the same voltage as the controller's logic voltage, 5V in the case of the Uno. Though it likely will still work powering with 3V.

frank meadow
#

I see, but the featherwing seems to need to be powered by 3V?

#

The display uses 3V power and logic so we just connect to the 3V and GND pins from the feather, as indicated above.

green thunder
#

Hmm that's a good point

frank meadow
#

I know the digital pins output 5V so they won't be ideal

#

the best one i know of is the 3.3V pin

#

I don't really want to risk breaking the board though due to using the wrong voltage

green thunder
#

Yeah I was about to say, you'll still be feeding in 5V on the SDA and SCL pins

frank meadow
#

shoot alright

green thunder
#

I assumed that it probably had a regulator like a lot of their breakouts, but since it's designed specifically for the feather I'm not sure

frank meadow
#

yeah

#

I would be using it with my feather but i think its kinda done for so I figured I'd use an arduino

north stream
livid osprey
# frank meadow I know the digital pins output 5V so they won't be ideal

Honestly, Arduino Uno's I2C pullups are not ideal, they're basically the same 50k-ish resistors used for the GPIO pullups. I would recommend looking into disabling the internal pullups, then putting an external pullup from your Arduino I2C pins to your 3.3V source. If you do that, you should be able to supply your display with straight 3.3V power and logic.

#

I'd recommend starting with a pair of 10k, and adjusting if you see any problems with the bus functionality.

frank meadow
#

alright thanks so much for the help

frank meadow
livid osprey
frank meadow
#

oh ok

#

ill figure that out probably

#

Again thanks so much for the help

vivid rock
#

I usually go for lower resistance, such as 3.3K - unless battery life is crucial for you

#

(Lower resistance - within limits - gives more reliable i2c communication, but increases the power draw: 3.3k at 3.3v gives 1mA current, which in most situations is not a problem)

livid osprey
#

I use 1k for my production systems, but 10k is plenty for a single device at 400kHz IIRC.

#

Considering what the internals of an Arduino Uno use for I2C, it's still a big improvement haha

#

Anything between 1k and 10k is a good value, but I tend to recommend higher resistances for buses with less devices. The featherwing-side uses 2.2k, so I guess the ideal value would match that....

gilded swift
#

I think a lot of the Stemma boards use 4.7k or even 10k. Or last i looked anyway

livid osprey
#

I think most of them are 4.7k.

gilded swift
#

Yeah.

rotund nacelle
#

Hello there i need a help in Arduino uno

leaden walrus
#

sure. just ask the question.

eternal river
#

the deprecation warning about the Adafruit Trinket, is that about programming it or using it as a USB device?

leaden walrus
#

using it in general, since the USB implementation on it was somewhat crude

brazen falcon
rotund nacelle
#

Do you know about rc-switch library?

#

I want the button to work only once per push no matter how long the button is held down

#

On my remote

#

When i push my button for long it don't send my data continuously

#

On off is working by pressing once but when i push it for long my program on off quickly but i want let my data send continuously when i press for long

frank meadow
#

I'd like to keep it as simple as possible

#

secondary question am I able to have two different devices wired to the SDA/SCL pins (AHT-20 & Featherwing oled) or will I need to use the STEMA connector on the featherwing

#

I'm assuming I can't but to be honest I haven't worked with anything outside of LEDs

cedar mountain
cedar mountain
frank meadow
cedar mountain
frank meadow
#

alright got it, i'll just leave it with the internal resistors

#

thanks so much

frank meadow
#

sorry another question, will the example code work?

#

i've commented out all of the stuff pertaining to buttons since i haven't wired them

frank meadow
#

Okay so I've tried an example and edited it accordingly, I've checked to see whether the I2C address is correct which it is (0x3C), and the program uploads success fully

#

but nothing shows on the screen

#

currently I have SCL, SDA, 3.3V & GND wired

#

heres my code

#

and looking at the serial i get this

# 
x: 61 y: -16 dy: 5
x: 29 y: -16 dy: 4
x: 92 y: -16 dy: 3
x: 31 y: -16 dy: 4
x: 16 y: -16 dy: 5
x: 112 y: -16 dy: 1
x: 61 y: -16 dy: 3
x: -7 y: -16 dy: 4
x: 41 y: -16 dy: 5
x: 126 y: -16 dy: 3
livid osprey
# frank meadow ```arduino ```

I'm looking at the featherwing example, and they use the SH110x library, not the SSD1306. The chipsets have the same I2C address, so they're easily confused.

frank meadow
#

oh im just being dumb, will try again

livid osprey
frank meadow
#

still not working with the SH110x

livid osprey
#

Are you using internal pullups?

frank meadow
#

yeah

#

I am aware you said don't but I figured i'd give it a shot

livid osprey
#

Do you have resistors around? Ideally a pair of 3.3k resistors to try to pull to 3.3v?

frank meadow
livid osprey
#

Connect one end of the resistors to 3.3V, and the other end to SCL/SDA

#

I'm hoping you don't need to disable the internals because your externals will do all the work...

rotund nacelle
#

@livid osprey simple

livid osprey
rotund nacelle
#

@livid osprey yes 4 button simple remote like a car security alarm remote

livid osprey
rotund nacelle
#

Yeahhh

livid osprey
# rotund nacelle Yeahhh

If you're using one of these receiver modules, the GPIO behaviors are fixed depending on which receiver module you're using. You can, however, process these outputs in Arduino to match your desired behavior. Do you know which receiver? I believe you're using the toggle switch one, but I'm not sure.

rotund nacelle
#

@livid osprey EV 1521 receiver

livid osprey
#

That is not one I'm familiar with. How are you processing the signals currently?

rotund nacelle
#

Signal is working pretty good

#

But I've problem with helding button for long and it's not processing code and data. It starts on off quickly

livid osprey
#

My guess is that your receiver has no means of distinguishing a held button vs a long press. You'll have to use some sort of signal processing on the Arduino side to identify long presses from these on/off signals.

rotund nacelle
#

Ok thanks man

hard pumice
#

Can anyone help me understand this?

#

I'm unsure what to do to fix the code i'm working with

rough torrent
#

since there is no comma to seperate the last CRGB::Green and CRGB::White it thinks the function call is complete but it didn't see a ) so it's confused

#

so either it's:

gPal = CRGBPalette16(CRGB::Black, CRGB::Blue, CRGB::Aqua,  CRGB:: Green, CRGB::White);
//                                                                     ^ add comma here

or

gPal = CRGBPalette16(CRGB::Black, CRGB::Blue, CRGB::Aqua,  CRGB:: Green);
//                                                                     ^ remove " CRGB::White"
hard pumice
#

ah i see

#

thanks

hard pumice
rough torrent
#

sorry, no i don't
am not familiar with that library + don't have much experience with neopixels (by experience i have those 5 neopixels on the pygamer i played with once)

#

but maybe it's the wrong neopixel type???? (it's rgb instead of rgbw or other way around)
or maybe the parameters to the pallete are incorrect, etc.

hard pumice
neat shoal
#

good day 😇
can i use A6 gsm/gprs with sim800 library

hard pumice
rough torrent
#

Haha happens to everyone

safe halo
#

Hello I am trying to send an alert email from my ESP32 thru my website however I am not getting any emails to either of the addresses it is sending to.
I am currently getting a the post data thru a serial monitor when I check the output.
I currently have the code on my ESP32 as follows

  if (wClient.connect("www.towersoftwareltd.com", 80)) //actual adress is in the code
    {
      WiFiClient wClient;
      wClient.println("POST /SendEmailAlert.php HTTP/1.1");
      wClient.println("Host: www.towersoftwareltd.com");
      wClient.println("Content-Type: application/x-www-form-urlencoded");
      wClient.print("Content-Length: ");
      wClient.println(sizeof(message1));
      wClient.println();
      wClient.print(message1);
}

The PHP code on my server looks like this:

<?php
$to = $_POST["to"];
$subject = "Tower Alarms Activated";
$message = $_POST["message"];
$headers = "From:######@########.com"; //real address is in code.
$time = time();
$date = date("H:i:s", $time);
mail($to, $subject, $message, $headers);
print "Time: $date<br>Email Sent to $to with message $message" 

?>

this is the output of the post when I send it thru my Serial Monitor

unknown.png
crisp folio
#

I think you'll need to encode your <CR><LF> into %0A%0D

frank meadow
#

anything else that might work?

cedar mountain
frank meadow
#

I have a 4.7K resistor around

#

could that work?

cedar mountain
#

Yep, the exact value isn't too critical for I2C... anything between about 2-10k is typical.

frank meadow
#

and i will need to disable the internal pull ups?

brazen falcon
#

4.7k used to actually be the normal try-first guess for i2c at 5V

low verge
#

Hi, please would a humidity sensor be effective in detecting rain and its variation?

formal quartz
#

Not really, even though humidty may rise during rain, it's not an indicator of rain. Your best bet for a predictor of rain would be barometric pressure. If you want to know if it is currently raining, then there are sensors for that.

livid osprey
#

They do recommend a load resistance between 3.3V and GND of around 22k to support the 3v3 regulator and keep it from malfunctioning. If you have 4.7k, you can tie 5 of them in series and hook them up between 3.3v and GND to help stabilize the power bus.

#

The "proper" way is also described further down in the link provided, where they use 2 MOSFETs to level-shift the 3.3V I2C lines to 5V for the Arduino.

safe halo
#

I am trying to POST to a PHP Page from my embedded device. I am having issues with the Post going thru. I s there a way to check if the data is being received by the PHP as the embedded device does not have a way to show the return file? I have verified that the php page is working. or a way to receive a callback that the data posted correctly??

  WiFiClient wClient;
  if (wClient.connect("www.towersoftwareltd.com", 80))
  {
    snprintf(heinPost, sizeof(heinPost), "s1_reading=%0.2f&s2_reading=%0.2f&s3_reading=%0.2f&s4_reading=%0.2f&s5_reading=%0.2f&s6_reading=%0.2f&s1_status=%d&s2_status=%d&s3_status=%d&s4_status=%d&s5_status=%d&s6_status=%d&s7_status=%d&s8_status=%d",
             ADAM_Module[0].OutputValue(),
             ADAM_Module[1].OutputValue(),
             ADAM_Module[2].OutputValue(),
             ADAM_Module[3].OutputValue(),
             ADAM_Module[4].OutputValue(),
             ADAM_Module[5].OutputValue(),
             ADAM_Module[0].PinState(),
             ADAM_Module[1].PinState(),
             ADAM_Module[2].PinState(),
             ADAM_Module[3].PinState(),
             ADAM_Module[4].PinState(),
             ADAM_Module[5].PinState(),
             ADAM_Module[6].PinState(),
             ADAM_Module[7].PinState());

    wClient.println("POST /hein/updatehein.php HTTP/1.1");
    wClient.println("Host: www.towersoftwareltd.com");
    wClient.println("Content-Type: application/x-www-form-urlencoded");
    wClient.print("Content-Length: ");
    wClient.println(sizeof(heinPost));
    wClient.println();
    wClient.print(heinPost);
    delay(200);
    if (wClient.available() > 0)
    {
      String readPage = wClient.readString();
      Serial.println(readPage);
    }
    Serial.println(heinPost);

  }
north stream
#

You can put a proxy between them to show what the data in transit looks like.

wise socket
#

Does anyone know a good alternative to the arduino String() Library. I could cstyle strings but I am pretty poor with them. If someone knows of a safer string Library please lemme know

vivid rock
#

@wise socketis switching to Python an option for you? it would make working with strings much easier

wise socket
#

I have just decided to see this as a learning opportunity and just use cstyle strings

north stream
#

They're a lot more (processor and memory) efficient, but you have to manage all the details yourself.

mild gate
#

Is there a way to update the code via ble? What I mean is rather than using the arduonoide to upload my sketch, or trying to hodgepodge a command line call and use a wire. Can I push my sketch via ble? I see a service called BLEDfu in dome examples… but no examples of it actually being used. The name makes me think it might be what I’m looking for?

mild gate
trail swallow
#

I'm using a 128x32 OLED Feather with a QT Py, and each time I first apply power, the display doesn't come up, and I have to press RST to get it to initialize properly. I'm checking the begin() return value, but looking at the library code it only checks that the arguments weren't obviously wrong, and doesn't do anything else to check if things are working correctly. Am I missing something? Last project I just added a delay() in setup() until it usually worked, but I was hoping for a more robust solution.

#

I don't even see any commands that read anything back, so I don't know if it's possible to know.

rough torrent
#

It's probably because you are trying to begin() before the chip "finished booting" so it doesn't do anything but by the time you press reset and the QT Py tries to initalize again the chip is ready

trail swallow
#

@rough torrent Makes sense. Any idea if the delay required is documented somewhere? I have yet to find such a thing.

#

Hm, display datasheet contains

Delay 100ms
(When VCC is stable)

#

during startup

#

Can I measure VCC somehow? Last time I looked into it it seemed to require wiring up resistors.

#

Which I'm willing to do, it's just more than I've done so far.

trail swallow
#

Delaying for a second before calling begin() seems to do the trick, at least usually, but man is it unsatisfying.

rough torrent
mild gate
#

Any way with BLEUart to increase speed? I think its 9600 baud by default

obsidian geyser
#

I feel like I may be missing something obvious. What is the advantage (or even material difference) between a Proto Shield and an ordinary perfboard with an IC socket?

cedar mountain
obsidian geyser
#

what does taken care of for you mean in this case? That if you want to connect a second circuit board, you don't have to run your own wires to share them?

#

(when would one want to share a USB connection across two circuit boards, rather than have it go solely to the arduino?)

#

watching the Adafruit video for it, looks it may be that the real gain is not the board itself, but the stacking form factor of Arduino shields as a whole; and once you're bought into that, the Proto Shield is the way to get a perfboard in that form factor.

livid osprey
# obsidian geyser I feel like I may be missing something obvious. What is the advantage (or even ...

The biggest takeaway is the ease of stacking, really. If you were to attempt to put a perfboard on top of an Arduino, the holes don't actually line up with the headers underneath. If you're working in a panel with a very limited planar space available, or if you simply want to have a finished project where you can easily swap out Arduino controller boards later, a protoshield does wonders over traditional perfboard.

obsidian geyser
livid osprey
#

I'm not sure which part you're referring to.

#

An IC socket might be able to fit into one row of headers on one side, but you would still need to do a considerable amount of wiring and mechanical design to achieve anything even close to as clean as the Protoshield.

#

That being said, the disadvantage is that it does lock you into the Arduino form factor, but given the options Metro boards offer, you're not really stuck in the Arduino framework from a software perspective, either.

obsidian geyser
#

makes sense, thanks

trail swallow
# rough torrent I'm pretty sure the learn guides suggest that I think delaying for 200ms should ...

Oops, you are absolutely correct. I guess I assumed it wouldn't have a troubleshooting entry! Thanks!

The OLED driver circuit needs a small amount of time to be ready after initial power. If your code tries to write to the display too soon, it may not be ready. It will work on reset since that typically does not cycle power. If you are having this issue, try adding a small amount of delay before trying to write to the OLED.

In Arduino, use delay() to add a few milliseconds before calling oled.begin(). Adjust the amount of delay as needed to see how little you can get away with for your specific setup.

trail swallow
#

I was able to get it down to 150ms.

wise socket
mild gate
#

anyone used the adafruit-nrfutil to deploy a compiled sketch via command line? I copied the command listed in the Arduino IDE but when I execute it I get a failure "Timed out waiting for acknowledgement from device." after sending the DFU start packat

stable forge
primal patrol
#

Looking for a bit of insight here; I have been working on some projects using the Seeeduino XIAO boards. I'm wanting to use the Adafruit TinyUSB library to do some HID stuff, but according to the (Seeeduino) website, only versions up to 0.10.5 support the XIAO. I have confirmed this by attempting to compile the later versions for that board. My question is, what was 'the' change that makes the current libraries incompatible with the XIAO? Is it the same for all SAMD21 boards? Looking at the changelog and the libraries themselves it just seems like basic upgrades and expansions to the code, but I may be missing something architectural..

I'll continue to use the arduino HID implementations if I have to, but I much prefer the adafruit libraries. Thanks in advance for any insight you all may have here

mild gate
#

command line output:
Opened serial port /dev/cu.usbmodem1101
Starting DFU upgrade of type 4, SoftDevice size: 0, bootloader size: 0, application size: 166332
Sending DFU start packet

#

then it times out waiting acknowledgement. I would think that DFU start packet would set the board into DFU mode like the double click? Or am I misunderstanding how that works

winter estuary
#

I'm trying to get an rp2040 feather running with the arduino IDE (its required unfortunately), however I am not sure how to control the neopixel that way (since I cant use the circuitpython board.NEOPIXEL method). Does anyone know what pin/etc I could use to control it from the arduino IDE?

livid osprey
winter estuary
#

thank you! ill give it a test

#

where did you find that schematic?

winter estuary
livid osprey
#

Every Adafruit board has one in the learn guide haha

winter estuary
#

oh wow perfect

safe urchin
#

Hello I am CS/CpE student at Missouri University of Science and Technology. I am not the best when it comes to hardware but I am doing a senior project that has to have hardware. I was wondering if I was to connect some wires from a boat to an arduino that sent it to a computer would I be using this https://www.adafruit.com/product/196 proto-screwshield? I have very little knowledge on hardware like I said earlier and I don't even know why kind of arduino or what I would use to send messages to the computer.

Proto-Screwshield (Wingshield) R3 Kit for Arduino

The next generation Proto-ScrewShield is a dual-purpose prototyping shield. Not only does it have a large 0.1" grid prototyping area but it also extends the Arduino pins to sturdy, ...

#

Any help would be greatly apperiated. I looked at some other company's method of doing this with a car and they used something like this but wasn't sure if this was the correct thing

primal patrol
#

You could certainly use the prototyping shield if you wanted it, it really is just an interface for the arduino allowing you to expand and use different types of connections a bit easier

#

But what type of information do you want to send?

safe urchin
#

It is guage information from existing boat sensors. Temperature, power generated, rpm, fuel, oil, volts and other stuff

thorny lintel
#

Can I power 6 LEDs in series with the 5v output of an Arduino Pro Micro

#

I know it's only 500ma but that should be enough

#

I'm just unsure if my schematic works

#

I was going off of this

#

6 LEDs, 3v forward voltage, 20ma current

#

That's how my schematic looks on the PCB

cedar mountain
thorny lintel
#

Sorry

#

That's what I meant!

upper rune
#

so i want to make a device that can transmit a message to TheThingsNetwork over LoRa but i cant seem to find a decisive answer whether its possible to do it with a device like this with an arduino? ive only heard of node to node communication with arduinos and only LoRaWAN with an esp32 boards but seen nothing about arduinos using LoRaWAN: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B084BVV4FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5pcs Ra-01 LoRa SX1278 433MHz Ra01 Wireless Spread Spectrum Transmi...

5pcs Ra-01 LoRa SX1278 433MHz Ra01 Wireless Spread Spectrum Transmission Module

#

ping me if you know if it is possible

crystal pawn
#

Hi all. Curious if anyone might have some insight into a technical problem I'm facing. We're integrating some Arduinos into a few theatrical effects and we'd like to set them all off simultaneously via wither Wifi, bluetooth or some other wireless connection. I'm unfamiliar with the Arduino wifi and bluetooth shields and unsure if we'd be able to trigger more than one of them remotely. Our plan is to send a serial command from Unity out to these devices. It's likely we'll have 4-5 of these effects we'd want to go off at the same time. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

leaden walrus
#

it'll probably help if you can better define "simultaneously"

#

like how much time difference can you tolerate between each effect triggering?

#

couple of seconds? a few 100 milliseconds? 0 seconds?

#

other useful info would be general distances involved, between the host running Unity and the devices themselves

crystal pawn
#

Latency is actually something we're not concerned about. We're integrating the Arduinos into old 16mm film projectors with modified motors and a micro fog machine. The arduino's normal loop will run the motor, but we want to be able to trigger a "failure" occasionally throughout our show, setting off the fog machine and turning off the motor. If they happen within 2-3 seconds of each other is actually totally fine!

#

The Unity PC and the arduino's will not be more than 15-20 feet away from each other

leaden walrus
#

cool. that's a large latency, so any option will likely work.

#

and the distance is probably ok for using bluetooth

#

not at all familiar with unity. it can send control signals of some kind out serial?

crystal pawn
#

We also considered having an Arduino connected via usb to the Unity machine and sending out a communication blast from that Arduino to the others

#

Yup! It can send UDP, DMX and Serial

leaden walrus
#

sounds like being wired is a potential option?

crystal pawn
#

unfortunately not :/ thats our pickle

#

these will be placed on cocktail tables without direct wired access. we're even having to power the arduino and fogger off a battery pack (thats a whole other issue lol)

leaden walrus
#

so maybe BLE?

crystal pawn
#

right. that's definitely an option, our concern was being able to connect multiple BLE devices at once

#

we considered the Particle devices as well, with their IoT connectivity

leaden walrus
#

are you wanting to continue using your existing arduino hardware?

crystal pawn
#

we'd like to stay within the Arduino ecosystem, but agnostic to the hardware

leaden walrus
#

maybe a BLE feather?

crystal pawn
#

i'll take a look! thanks for your help @leaden walrus!

leaden walrus
#

that'd be the hardware at each effect device

#

and they'd run a sketch that's just a simple loop looking for some specific BLE thing, could just use BLE UART even maybe?

#

and then when that's seen, run whatever is needed to trigger the effect

#

have you figured out the arduino to effect interface yet? like the physical connection between the two

crystal pawn
#

yeah, that's all sorted out

#

it's just the remote triggering we're struggling with

leaden walrus
#

ok, then seems possible, if you think, after looking at that guide, the feather could also interface to the effects hardware

#

and then you'd need to also figure out the unity pc side

crystal pawn
#

right, the unity stuff is taken care of

leaden walrus
#

but how to emit something over BLE from the unity pc?

crystal pawn
#

can multiple BLE devices be connected to a PC?

leaden walrus
#

yes, that should be possible

crystal pawn
#

ok cool!

leaden walrus
#

the unity pc has built in bluetooth?

crystal pawn
#

yep!

leaden walrus
#

and unity, the software, has some kind of BLE capability?

crystal pawn
#

i believe so!

leaden walrus
#

the bluetooth hardware on the unity pc would let you setup connections

#

but then the question is how to actually talk to them from the unity software?

crystal pawn
#

well, we were thinking we'd have a mega connected via USB to the pc and then send the commands remotely from there

leaden walrus
#

how would unity see the USB connected mega?

crystal pawn
#

our unity app is configured to receive and send serial over USB to our arduinos

leaden walrus
#

ok, over serial, via the com port

crystal pawn
#

yep!

leaden walrus
#

that could be a feather also probably

#

on unity pc:
feather looping looking for command on serial, when found, emit command over BLE to feathers on effects

#

on effects:
feather looping looking for command on BLE, when found, trigger effect

#

that's the rough sketch

pallid grail
#

@leaden walrus Does analogWrite() use PWM behind the scenes or something? Because the comment on the led pin is the PWM pin the LED is attached to, but then it uses analogWrite, not PWMsomething. Trying to figure out what to title the guide page. It's PWMOut for CircuitPython.

leaden walrus
pallid grail
#

Ahhh ok

#

I'll call the page PWM then. Thanks!

lyric mica
#

hello guys! I have a quick question. I am wiring up a button and battery to a schematic I made, but I am not sure where to start! could anyone give me some advice?

bat.JPG
#

this is my goal

#

the top is the IMU, the middle is a logic level converter to 3.3v and the bottom is the arduino nano

livid osprey
# lyric mica hello guys! I have a quick question. I am wiring up a button and battery to a sc...

This may or may not be equivalent to googling half the answer, but this page has a lot of nice circuits to start off with. http://www.mosaic-industries.com/embedded-systems/microcontroller-projects/electronic-circuits/push-button-switch-turn-on/latching-toggle-power-switch

Push Button ON-OFF Soft Latch Circuits, Battery Powered Touch Toggl...

Application note for electronic latch circuits using logic gates and MOSFETs that detect a push button press to switch ON power to your embedded system. Because their MOSFET switches consume no current in the OFF state, these circuits are useful for battery powered portable instruments. A momentary button press turns a power MOSFET ON, and hol...

lyric mica
#

oh sweet. thank you. I knew i was going to need a MOSFET but was having a hard time finding examples

pallid grail
#

@leaden walrus I started up Arduino without a board connected and the window in focus gave me this. What is even going on here? I wasn't uploading anything, it was simply opening the app. Was given a wall of red text. Exception in thread "AWT-EventQueue-0" java.lang.NullPointerException at cc.arduino.view.NotificationPopup.updateLocation(NotificationPopup.java:244) at cc.arduino.view.NotificationPopup.<init>(NotificationPopup.java:222) at cc.arduino.view.NotificationPopup.<init>(NotificationPopup.java:72) at cc.arduino.contributions.ContributionsSelfCheck.lambda$run$0(ContributionsSelfCheck.java:134) at java.awt.event.InvocationEvent.dispatch(InvocationEvent.java:311) at java.awt.EventQueue.dispatchEventImpl(EventQueue.java:758) at java.awt.EventQueue.access$500(EventQueue.java:97) at java.awt.EventQueue$3.run(EventQueue.java:709) at java.awt.EventQueue$3.run(EventQueue.java:703) at java.security.AccessController.doPrivileged(Native Method) at java.security.ProtectionDomain$JavaSecurityAccessImpl.doIntersectionPrivilege(ProtectionDomain.java:74) at java.awt.EventQueue.dispatchEvent(EventQueue.java:728) at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpOneEventForFilters(EventDispatchThread.java:205) at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEventsForFilter(EventDispatchThread.java:116) at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEventsForHierarchy(EventDispatchThread.java:105) at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEvents(EventDispatchThread.java:101) at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.pumpEvents(EventDispatchThread.java:93) at java.awt.EventDispatchThread.run(EventDispatchThread.java:82)

#

It's not blocking me or anything, but I'm still trying to understand Arduino, and then it does stuff like this.

leaden walrus
#

close it and start again and see if it repeats

#

looks like some at-start thing barfed

pallid grail
#

On it

#

Did not happen twice.

#

That is so not helpful. 😄

leaden walrus
#

just some random hiccup then

pallid grail
#

Fair enough. Thanks

leaden walrus
#

something related to this maybe:

cc.arduino.contributions.ContributionsSelfCheck.lambda$run$0(ContributionsSelfCheck.java:134)
#

doesn't look critical

pallid grail
#

It works... I loaded a sketch. So I guess that's good.

leaden walrus
#

something something AWT on macOS something something

pallid grail
#

hah!

#

Sounds about right.

leaden walrus
#

yah. don't worry about it. unless it happens again or gets worse.

pallid grail
#

Will do. Appreciate the sanity check.

pine bramble
#

i nned help with NeoPixel 24 bit, i need to learn how to chhange colors (to yellow)

crystal pawn
leaden walrus
#

"yellow" is (255, 255, 0) or 0xFFFF00 is you're just wanting help with values

pine bramble
#

ye i got this thanks

cinder dome
#

hi all, quick question, can I use Adafruit_NeoPixel() inside isr of samd family? thx in advance

pallid grail
#

@leaden walrus How (and where in the code) do I set NeoPixel brightness in Arduino? I know I've seen it before, but I don't know where.

#

Oi, found it finally.

#

Nevermind!

leaden walrus
#

just in case

pallid grail
#

Managed to dig it up in the NeoPixel examples. Had to go through a bunch though.

#

Guess I could have checked the docs. heh.

#

Thanks!

leaden walrus
#

np. it may work a little different than CP also. see note in that link.

#

but if it's something simple, won't matter

pallid grail
#

It's not simple at all, but I set it before doing anything else, and it seems to have worked.

#

It's not in the loop.

#

It's before the loop. And this isn't as bright as usual, so I assume it worked.

thick plank
#

Hello all. I have a problem I need some help with. I am trying to program a feather m0 with 1 neopixel and a SDD1306 (128x32) oled display. each function perfect alone but once I try to use them both in an application it crashes and I need to put the feather m0 into bootloader mode to regain control. I have read in several places of the conflict with the drivers but have not found any solution that works.. I have tried both the regular new pixel library as well as the zero DMA library. neo pixel on pin 5. thanks for any hints or help.

north stream
#

It could be running out of memory, or there's conflict for an interrupt or somesuch.

thick plank
#

@north stream , I will confirm when I get home. But all the application currently does is read values from a serial particle sensor . Display the 14 characters for the value and blink the led based on showing a status color.

north stream
#

If you point me to where you found mentions of a conflict with the drivers, I can read over it and try to think of something useful.

thick plank
#

@north stream ok just got home. it shouldn't be a ram issue. Advanced Memory Usage is available via "PlatformIO Home > Project Inspect"
RAM: [== ] 15.7% (used 5148 bytes from 32768 bytes)
Flash: [== ] 18.4% (used 48128 bytes from 262144 bytes)

north stream
#

Yeah, that seems fine. The M0 is pretty spacious for C code, so unless you had a lot of display buffers or something like that, it seems like it should fit.

thick plank
#

I just started from scratch with the basic ssd1306 demo code in the arduino IDE and added the neopixle_zeroDMA library and its working fine.. will review my code again and see if I can find the issue. the only obvious difference is the working code does not include the particle sensor library. (https://github.com/felixgalindo/HPMA115S0) .

GitHub
GitHub - felixgalindo/HPMA115S0: Arduino Library for Honeywell's Pa...

Arduino Library for Honeywell's Particle Sensor (HPMA115S0-XXX) - GitHub - felixgalindo/HPMA115S0: Arduino Library for Honeywell's Particle Sensor (HPMA115S0-XXX)

thick plank
#

back to square one. copied working demo code from arduino IDE to platformio and it fails after upload. calling it a night.

amber hawk
#

I have an aduino uno with a CNC shileld V3, A4988 drivers, and 28byj-48 Steppers with bi-polar mod

I can have 2 motors connected and they will spin, when I add the third they stop spinning and hum not spinning

#

I'm at a loss

north stream
#

I'm not sure what a "bi-polar mod" is, but my first guess would be a power supply issue.

amber hawk
#

Bi-Polar mod is taking away the common coil

north stream
#

Ah, just using the outer leads? That makes sense.

amber hawk
#

yeah, makes it compatable with gbrl shield and stronger

winter estuary
#

hi! I have a rp2040 feather connected to a VL53L0X breakout with the stemma qt cable, however on running an i2c scanner script i'm not seeing any devices (rp2040 feather is being run with arduino IDE). Is there anything I can check?

livid osprey
winter estuary
#

thats because the default VL53L0X example script wasnt able to 'boot' the sensor

# 
12:50:03.026 -> Adafruit VL53L0X test
12:50:03.026 -> Failed to boot VL53L0X
# 
12:49:42.288 -> Scanning...
12:49:42.321 -> No I2C devices found
leaden walrus
#

change to Wire1 in the code

# 
Wire1.beginTransmission(address);
#

like that, and every other line that has Wire

#

don't change this though:

#include <Wire.h>
winter estuary
#

awesome! thank you, that worked

#

is Wire1 a different i2c bus?

leaden walrus
#

yep

winter estuary
# 
#include "Adafruit_VL53L0X.h"

Adafruit_VL53L0X lox = Adafruit_VL53L0X();

void setup() {
  delay(500);
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // wait until serial port opens for native USB devices
  while (! Serial) {
    delay(1);
  }
  
  Serial.println("Adafruit VL53L0X test");
  if (!lox.begin()) {
    Serial.println(F("Failed to boot VL53L0X"));
    while(1);
  }
  // power 
  Serial.println(F("VL53L0X API Simple Ranging example\n\n")); 
}


void loop() {
  VL53L0X_RangingMeasurementData_t measure;
    
  Serial.print("Reading a measurement... ");
  lox.rangingTest(&measure, false); // pass in 'true' to get debug data printout!

  if (measure.RangeStatus != 4) {  // phase failures have incorrect data
    Serial.print("Distance (mm): "); Serial.println(measure.RangeMilliMeter);
  } else {
    Serial.println(" out of range ");
  }
    
  delay(100);
}
leaden walrus
#

you'll need to do something similar for the VL53L0X

#

it uses Wire by default

#

one sec...it's an easy change...

winter estuary
#

do I need to overwrite the lox declaration?

leaden walrus
# 
  if (!lox.begin(VL53L0X_I2C_ADDR, Wire1)) {
#

oops...wait...that's not right...

#

there's another parameter...

# 
  if (!lox.begin(VL53L0X_I2C_ADDR, false, Wire1)) {
#

try that

winter estuary
#

sweeet!

# 
if (!lox.begin(0x29, false, &Wire1)) {
```did the trick
#

thank you so much!

leaden walrus
#

np

pine bramble
trail swallow
#

I think I'm missing something fundamental about the current flow in LED strips - https://learn.adafruit.com/rgb-led-strips/circuitpython-code - if I want to use an external power supply that supplies, say 24V, does the board also have to support that, or is there a way to use the transistors such that it's not necessary that it all be on the same voltage? I'm assuming ground has to be the same? Would it work then to step 24V down to 5V for the board?

Adafruit Learning System
RGB LED Strips

Glowy goodness!

heavy star
#

If you have a 24V strip that has 5V logic for addressing, then the V+ and GND go to a 24v supply for the strip, and the MCU should have a shared GND and connect to data in but be on a separate supply

livid osprey
livid osprey
trail swallow
#

Okay, cool, I hoped so. Thanks!

heavy star
#

Ahh… yeah, what Hem said

midnight gulch
#

I have not seen that transistor on far right in a long time

#

nor the silver capped one between the two power transistors

livid osprey
#

Crossposting from #help-with-projects hoping for exposure to whoever handles the WaveHC library, is there a reason why DVOLUME defaults to 0 in WaveHC.h? It seems the library examples all error out unless you change it. DVOLUME must be set to non-zero in WaveHC.h Not a valid WAV

#

I'd put an issue in Github, but I don't have an account...

north stream
#

Good catch: a couple of people have been fighting that one for a while.

livid osprey
#

Changing it to 1 seems to affect compatibility with wav files of a higher sample rate though

#

Seems like its less a config issue and more an enforcing-something-that-shouldn't-be-enforced issue...

pine bramble
#

i need help with TinyGPS++ library

#

Serial.println(gps.location.lat());

#

my arduino is connected and executing this statement but the serial monitor showing
0.00

#

but when i upload the "FullExample" example sketch that comes with the library, it does prints out latitude

pine bramble
#

Please help

cedar mountain
# pine bramble Please help

You'll probably want to link to your code with a pastebin or something. We can't tell what you might be doing differently than the example.

pine bramble
#

Thanks for the response
i just wasn't using the gps.encode(ss.read());

worthy hamlet
#

Hey, I’m working on a ciruit where I need to deliver a 9v power to an arduino and a DC-to-AC inverter (I have a 3v, 4.5v, and 12v)
What’s the best way to pull this off?

#

And I only need the inverter to power a bunch of 2.5” EL wire (30 count) all in parallel

north stream
#

When you say you have 3V, 4.5V, and 12V, are you referring to power sources you have, or inverters you have?

worthy hamlet
north stream
#

You could start with an ordinary 9V battery, or make up a 12V battery out of AA cells and use a buck regulator to get 9V. Or you could make up a 4.5V battery and use a boost regulator to get 9V. However, most Arduinos can take a range of voltage, so it may not have to be 9V in particular.

#

The "best" way, of course, depends on your parameters. Some people want highest efficiency, some want lowest weight/size, some want lowest cost, some want longest runtime, etc.

worthy hamlet
#

my concern is not blowing up anything

#

and my thought is putting the arduino and the inverter in series

north stream
#

I'm not sure what you mean by "in series" here. You don't want to power the Arduino from the output of the inverter, nor do you want to power the inverter with the Arduino's regulator.

winged pulsar
worthy hamlet
strong frigate
#

1+1=2

elder hare
#

what resistor to use to lower voltage from 230v to 3.3v ? :/

gilded swift
#

Resistors?

#

Say you have a voltage divider

#

And between your tap and ground you have a 100ohm resistor

#

If at your tap you have 3.3V, you need to then determine what the top resistor needs to be to divide 230 into 226.7V and 3.3V