#general-chat
1 messages · Page 92 of 1
how did you charge the battery?
do you have a multimeter?
nope, just first thing to check is whether you battery is actually at charge and supplying ~3.7V
oh ok
if you plug in the USB, does it work then?
i downloaded the code from adafruits build website and i did everything right
but idk what the yellow light means
well, the board is getting power
do you see that light when the battery is plugged in?
no
when i first put on the battery it did flicker another light
it went from green to red
ok, you might have to wait for someone who has done that build then to offer more help
ive been trying to find people who have but no luck so far
i even tried emailing john park abt it since he made it
but no answer either
yeah, this looks like it might be a challenging project for a first try, do you have any experience with serial communication and/or python programming?
no sir
so for a update i got the wires fixed
but when i boot up the screen its just blank
grey like
and i already dropped the code fron the guide
@latent sage The light you are pointing to is the NeoPixel LED. The other two lights by the USB are charge/power, the green and status, and the orange one; I am judging colours by that purple-looking screenshot.
@latent sage Here is the same board, Feather RP20240 (Pink Version) charging a battery as seen by the orange charging LED, with a display and all sitting on the same expansion board.
Chaaatttt im so happy
i've never programmed anything in my life before this
but the brains of the electronics now work
The servoes are moving and the camera turns on and off
its still super janky and needs a lot of work before i put it in the helmet
but it totes work!!!
now i just need to put all that and more into this and fix some bugsssss and code more stufffff and get a new camera modulleeeee, and print some housingssssss
I've got a bad spot on my memento lens, are there replacements? I'm also wondering if there's anything available to protect the lens
I didn't see anything on adafruits website, but found something similar on AliExpress ov5640. I can't find anything I could use to cover the lens though unless I go with one of the manual focus lenses...
You can replace the whole camera https://www.adafruit.com/product/5840
Not sure how I missed that, thank you
How did you get the bad spot? Note that the camera ships with a peel-off plastic cover, if you have not removed that yet.
Somewhere I received a couple of 7-pin stacking headers., nice edges, not hand-cut. I think they must have come with a QT Py BFF (but they don't come with most BFFs)? I can't find them in the store. I found them on
, but Adafruit out to sell 7-position female headers for the QT Py / BFF ecosystem. There are equivalent headers in the store for Feather, Itsy Bitsy, Pico, and Metro (Uno).
WE ARE LIVE! Desk of Ladyada - BQ25185 pt 2, DVI HSTX, LPS28, and CP2105 https://youtu.be/488quIh8Pis
Two BQ25185 boards were designed: a LiPo charger and a 3.3V buck output variant. The corrected HSTX to DVI converter boards were tested and ordered. Revisited the LPS28 breakout project and found a dual-UART USB chip (CP2105). Locating an ultra-thin RG-174 coax cable.
Two BQ25185 boards were designed: a LiPo charger and a 3.3V buck output variant. The corrected HSTX to DVI converter boards were tested and ordered. Revisited the LPS28 breakout project and found a dual-UART USB chip (CP2105). Locating an ultra-thin RG-174 coax cable.
The only BFF I see that doesn't ship with just plain pin headers is this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/5882
Are they the tall kind of stacking headers?
Yes, the tall, long-pinned stacking headers. I'm not sure where else I would have gotten them.
i am at a loss to find anything like that. are they smooth on both ends, not cut and sanded?
They are clean, definitely manufactured as 7-position. Thanks for checking. I can get them on Digikey, but it would be nice for Adafruit to offer kits like for the other board systems.
I have a lot of BFFs, but haven't done much with them yet. There are BFFs for which there is no Feather equivalent (e.g., I2S), so now I'm making a hand-wired Feather-to-BFF adapter (not a PCB) using a cut-down perma-proto.
yall i've been struggling with soldering for so long and i finally just realized it's because i was missing the magic ingredient of flux 🤦♂️
i would always just use flux core solder but that doesn't really help with fixing things and rework, or touching the same solder point a bunch of times in diy scenarios
also, i'm completely shocked at how good flux + desoldering wick works.
Just watch out the fingers can get toasty when holding the copper braid desoldering wick.
yeah it gets hot super fast! i've been holding it by the spool assuming it was heat proof but it has metled a bit in places so i might switch to cutting off a piece and holding it with ceramic tip tweezers
Just shows how fast heat travels through a copper conductor
i also realized (since getting the flux) that i've been soldering at about 100C too hot 🤦♂️ at 450C trying to compensate for the solder not melting easily
wick heating up quickly just means you’re using enough flux for good heat transfer
You will two temps one for leader 60/40 solder and another for lead free
lead lowers the melting point, right?
I think so I would have to check my station, it has the ability two set 3 presets and I think I have preset set 1 set to about 275c
whoa
yeah just checked 275c
275 sounds amazing, maybe i should get some leaded solder
i've been avoiding it cuz i dunno, LEAD
unless you plan to lick the solder for the lead sugar effect it is no more lethal than going outside
the smoke/vapor you see is not lead its the flux inside the solder burning, a smoke extractor on the bench will keep it away from you breathing it in
wash your hands afte soldering
to vaporize lead you need about 1300c
cool
yeah don't go make a snack after soldering session, wash first.
here i come, lead
why would anyone not use lead since you get to solder at such a low temp?
are there non-health related reasons to avoid it?
because discarded leaded electronics is more hazardous waste than non-leaded
if a pcb with lead is dumped in the ground water can leach lead from it and contaminate the water table
thanks for all the answers!
the funny thing is in satalites unlead solder joints form dendrites that short out connections but leaded solder does not do it.
weird, like the lead smooooths it out
its a chemistry thing and how it behaves in vacum and zero G
pretty sure tin whiskers were a thing on Earth too
Saw a documentary on how they found out the newer satellites were dying yet older ones were not
Yes the Documentry mention that even on earth it could form dendrites
But it was more pronounced in orbit.
If I am not mistaken there are more than one form of lead free solder, some based on silver others on antimony I think.
The lead-free I use is 0.8mm Sn-0.97Cu
I generally use silver bearing leaded solder (62/36/2). It's expensive, but it's a joy to solder with.
what's cool about it?
It was a gift from a friend, I don't exactly know. Just two little spots I can't really clean off. I'm questioning if the autofocus is broken or if the spots are affecting it. I gotta hold the button for like 20 secs and it might take a photo
Melts nicely, flows well, wets well, and it's euctectic, so it freezes all at once, without an intermediate phase that can lead to cold joints. It also makes visually attractive, shiny, strong joints.
do you mean that it was used when you got it from the friend? Have you updated to the latest CircuitPython and libraries?
It's the MEMENTO, right?
I'm going to be in NY for work in about a week., Is the new space in Industry City open to visitors?
nope, no tours or will-call, sorrry
Scanning for where to ask for Webone help....
Well if anyone comes by, I can't figure out how to actually get it to execute on macos terminal. I do exactly what the wiki says, and nothing happens.
There is not a single mention of webone in this entire server I feel I may be in the wrong place.
Figured it out, am genius. the present wiki article doesn't (an older one does) mention this: $ dotnet webone.dll (alternative way)
That worked for me. Please update the present macos instructions to add that.
(also this only works for an older version hmm.)
Yeah, I've updated it and it's the memento. I thought maybe it sat out of its case for a while and got dust on the lens, but I can't get it off. I'm guessing it's trying to autofocus to the bad spots and failing. New camera module is cheap so I'll try it
I ordered some round protection glass, I'm going to glue it to the opening and put something in a ring around the camera between the 2 boards.
and there's no plastic film covering it, right?
there's a little pull tab on the film
To quote from the Python on Microcontrollers newsletter:
A quick reminder that Adafruit doesn’t have a store or tours, they’re just making cool products in their factory that you order online.
I've spent a couple weeks in a deep dark hole called Kryptos.
and happy to say I’ve reverse engineered at least part of the encryption technique used for K4. That’s something that hasn’t been done before, at least not publicly to my knowledge.
guys, do you guys have any casual ways to relearn electrical engineering?
Usually for me, it's grab a breadboard and some parts and build some things.
Yeah no film. No worries though I ordered another camera module, thanks for the help
Where can i download projects for my matrix portal m4?
It does not even have the sand demo, it just shows up blank.
This is the main guide https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-matrixportal-m4 that shows you how to get started -- it includes the sand demo in the Arduino section
These are all the learn guides for projects using the board: https://learn.adafruit.com/products/4745/guides
what flux does it come with
i generally like cleaning mine but a no clean would be interesting too
It's available with several choices of flux. I usually go with RMA flux, which is no-clean, but there are others available.
sigh nice slder but expensive
True, it's not cheap. But notice the production date on that: I've had that spool for ten years, and I do a fair amount of soldering.
tiny happy news! I finally got a new OV 5647 module and finally it works
my helmet will finally have eyyeeess
byebye
My rolls of Kester is dated 1999.
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I am suddenly very angry that the Adafruit blog described an Apple IIgs keyboard as a Mac IIgs keyboard.
arg! that's like saying a ][+ was the same as a //e
Exactly. Grab your torch and/or pitchfork and join me.
(It does kinda make me want to go back to my ages-old design for a Snow White esque case for modern hardware and make a 3D printed version of something)
heyo! im 14 and for whatever reason i was wondering if getting IT certified (comptia a+) now instead of later would help me out at all
Especially if it's something you're passionate about, getting certified earlier is almost always easier while you have less of the real world to have to worry about. However, in the really long run, when you got certified won't be a benefit in itself, and as the technologies advance, it could potentially go out of date to some extent.
tl;dr at this stage of your life, don't question its benefit to you, question if it's something you would want to do.
don't these certifications have it's own expiration date?
i believe you will have to retake them
They should, typically. Not always, but usually yes.
i do agree on "as the technologies advance, it could potentially go out of date to some extent"
assembly from what i've seen was a huge thing in the 90s, everyone knows it
but in web 2.0 era many people shifted to high level programming languages
depends on what you mean by "IT" -- your best bet is to continue your formal education and once you've finished high school (or whatever term you use for secondary level education), then you have the option of going "trades" (e.g. specialized IT trade school) or more formalized through college-level education
the big thing is to KEEP LEARNING: at this point, I've forgotten more computer languages than I currently have in my head, but I can read just about anything because at the root level, they're all doing the same thing
They're pointless. Any business who requires certifications, will pay for them, usually it's due to abide to no sense regulation.
Be wary to anything that promises you to have a job once you have a certificate, that's marketing to make you buy for a some paper
Knowledge it's out there and it's free, it's not anymore 19x0. All those certifcations, schools that I see pop up, are essentially all scams, either to get funds, and/or privatize markets
Hi
do someone know where can i find espnow library
@ancient phoenix for what platform? (arduino, circuitpython, esp-idf)
arduino
arduino
it may be part of the board support package already, does it error if you include it in code? https://docs.espressif.com/projects/arduino-esp32/en/latest/api/espnow.html
yeah, looks like it's there automatically for esp boards
@ancient phoenix
(that was on a fresh install of Arduuino IDE)
i tried to install it again but this happens
I'm not sure about that one, try asking in #help-with-arduino
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This is cool
PDS8F208A
LGT's new AVR compatible MCU that supports fast charging
Hopefully it can be as easily purchasable as the legendary LGT8F328P
that's a video.. very suspicious.
OOOOOOOH that's because it's a video with music in it. got it. didn't have my speakers on. sorry about that.
I am currently using CircuitPython 9.2-beta 0 with my Sparkfun Pro Micro 2350.
os.uname() is still showing the machine as rp2040.
Is full RP2350 support coming soon?
it is supported. That uname() value is just wrong. I just fixed that: https://github.com/adafruit/circuitpython/pull/9683
Thank you for your resource suggestions over in the live broadcast chat, @idle lion . I've been thinking about a better way to frame my question, and I suppose what I'm really after is some sort of central guide that catalogs the types of information CtPy is able to convey about the board it is running on and explains how to expose that information both from the board 'directly' and through an external probe. Related would be an explanation of what CtPy does when it runs on a board: what happens when during boot up, for example; when it reads sensor data, presumably via register entry, are those registers 'on' the sensor or something 'on' the main chip; when CtPy creates a register, is the address determined by protocol (i2c starts at 0x0100, spi at 0x0200, etc.) or is that determined by the chip itself; can one determine what processes are blocking versus non-blocking in advance; in short, is there some guide to de-abstract what CtPy abstracts away? Simple ask, right? 😄
@twilit onyx here's an (outdated; CP 8) gist of some of the things you can determine about a board programmatically https://gist.github.com/anecdata/b3bd4f1fb98c29296de458066399bdf6 ...check out particularly these built-in modules in the repl: os, supervisor, microcontroller, board, storage. Also check out the various "pin finders" in the learn guides that programmatically can find the pins that are valid for various mijds of SERCOMs like I2C, UART, etc.
also... do >>> help("modules") in the REPL, and dive down (dir(), help()) on all the things 🙂
code-generated docs are here: https://docs.circuitpython.org/en/latest/shared-bindings/index.html
Highest-level intro to the code structure for the core C code is here: https://docs.circuitpython.org/en/latest/README.html#project-structure
Code is here: https://github.com/adafruit/circuitpython
I have gone spelunking, but rather quickly run up against my limited ability to make much of anything from what I find
Thank you for these resources, @umbral phoenix
np, it's hard to know where you're coming from, I'm sure there's no perfect resource for everyone. for someone new to various aspects, there are multiple learning curves... some people like to find videos, some people like to read docs or code, some people like to play in the REPL to learn. BTW, there's a slightly fuller list of resources further down in the pinned messages of the #help-with-circuitpython channel
and ask lots of questions... the more specific, the easier to answer 🙂
the two circuitpython main learn guides (welcome and essentials) give a good context for how everything fits together
Yes, I tend to like reading (my background is in English lit, after all), but also playing in the REPL, as much as I can manage. Some of it is simply not knowing what's possible, though, which is why I like watching the deep dives with @stuck moth and @idle lion
I am a big fan of the REPL for learning. I use CircuitPython and while it is great in that you can make a code change, save it, and then see it run immediately, there is still a bit of lag in there. With the REPL I can import libraries and then simply type in lines of code and see what happens. If it doesn't work right I can UP-arrow to load that line again and change it slightly and enter it. Much master when you are just playing with concepr or wondering if doing something slightly differently will work without having to keep changing and rerunning larger programs.
why most fonts dont have degree unit º for displaying temperature ºC?
Because ASCII was designed very carefully to fit everything they thought they needed in 7 bits and they left out a degree symbol, which means that you can get away without it kinda sorta maybe sometimes.
I'll often replace characters I don't need with characters I do, to avoid having to do gymnastics to have more glyph addresses. That's how I added the ghost and clock symbols to this cosplay display
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This week on Desk of Ladyada, we’re checking out some new cafe light samples! The RGB WS2811s are easy-peasy with NeoPixel, but the TM1814 RGBWs needed a custom CircuitPython solution. We even designed a level shifter/inverter to make it smoother. Details in The Great Search!
I recently put up a public "My Notes" on Adafruit on creating reduced bitmap font sets and in step 3 of my little cheat sheet I make a point on pointing out to be sure to pick up the degree symbol and also noting even CircuitPython's built in font does not carry it. It is weird considering a huge number of our microcontroller projects involve measuring and displaying temperature. My guide if you care https://adafruit-playground.com/u/Timeline/pages/creating-reduced-sized-bitmap-fonts-from-ttf-file
Ill check that out. Thanks!
Or the exact same info in the Adafruit guides:
https://learn.adafruit.com/custom-fonts-for-pyportal-circuitpython-display/conversion
and
https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-display_text-library/use-fontforge
Still not helpful for CFalconPT, since Adafruit_GFX lib for Arduino only supports 7bit symbols.
Hi! I just received my RP2350 HSTX feather, and the LiPo jumper was cut when I received it.
checking on this...
thank you!
good afternoon, I have what I hope to be a somewhat simple and straight forward project. I created a cable to for my dl380 g9 motherboard to db9 connector. However, since HPE doesnt like to give out pinouts, or any specs, I am trying to make a device using arduino that I can plug into my rs232 port, and test if my pins are correctly connected to the motherboard. Anyone have any ideas?
You don't even need an Arduino, just some LEDs. There are RS-232 breakouts available with the LEDs as well. It's probably worth identifying at least the zero volt ("ground") pin to use as a reference to measure everything else. If you did want to use an Arduino as a tester, it would take a little interfacing circuitry as Arduinos operate on 0V and 5V (or 3.3V for some variants) signals, and RS-232 is often -12V and +12V or somesuch, so you'd need to adapt that somehow. If you make a mistake with LEDs and damage some, they're inexpensive and easy to replace. If you make a mistake with an Arduino, you could damage the Arduino, which would be a shame.
Ahh true with leds being cheap. I can easily identify the ground. I was just hoping for a simple way to write some code conenct it and have it verify connections. I know I would need to use a max232, or similar.
You could use some voltage dividers and resistors to probe pins by driving them (though a resistor) and seeing if the voltage on them changes. If it doesn't change (much), that pin is probably being driven and is an output. If it does change, that pin is probably not being driven and is an input (or not connected). Exercising the port to assert control signals (DTR, RTS, CTS, etc.) will help identify which is which, and sending data will show which is the transmit pin.
at this point would probably be cheaper to just get the tester from amazon. I had some stuff laying around but not some of the stuff I would need for this. dangit!
i tried to contact HP on it and use the excuse that wire got cut when putting the riser card in by our team, but then they wanted us to pay for a subscriptiong that likely would have been told "oh we dont have that you need to buy this 100$ serial cable" lmao
everything with HPE is behind a paywall
Yes my "My Notes" points to that guide but I wrote mine as a quick "just do these steps" cheatsheet. Also note in both those pages you linked in the photos they make the mistake of leaving out the SPACE character. Oops. And don't include a degree symbol which is what brought this topic up here, the lack of a degree symbol in many fonts.
I think there is a trace between the pads
the pads are there if you want to reconnect them after cutting them
I see the trace! Thank you so much for the info
no problem!
i have a feather rp2040 USB host and Adafruit_NeoPixel is conflicting with the USB host library (i think for PIO reasons). if i try to use the neopixel library it completely panics before setup code even runs. i think this forum post is the same issue https://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?t=210742
hi, i need help with my Raspberry pi 4, i want use DHT 22 with Domoticz and the sensor doesn't work
i read this documentation :
if you're using the newest OS, you really need to use a virtual environment setup first in order to use a lot of the drivers https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-on-raspberrypi-linux
is atom editor dead? i cant find packages for it, it links to "atom.io" but the page is just https://github.blog/
I need lisp thingy, so my code looks nice when editing halo scripts
like... ages ago
i found an extension for visual studio for .hsc files
is it just me or is the digikey search/link from Adafruit seriously broken (as in 500 broken)?
do you mean on product pages?
it seems they have had some server-side issues according to the email i got from them 😏
glad they're working on it
ok thx
For those unaware of the Earth web site, it uses GFS (open source US weather service data) and several JavaScript libraries to visualise global weather and other data. You can watch Hurricane Milton as it approaches Florida. Note that this site visualises a model of the current global data, it is not based on observational data. There's a menu at lower left to alter the view.
https://earth.nullschool.net/#current/wind/surface/level/orthographic=-83.53,26.30,4518
This is also a way to view the polar vortex over Antarctica, which blows 300-350kph continuously at high altitude (10hPa is the barometric pressure at ~20km). Clicking on the map will show you the data at that location.
https://earth.nullschool.net/#current/wind/isobaric/10hPa/orthographic=-88.39,-93.83,494
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Great job with the Spirit Board, @idle lion ! (Catching up on the stream now)
@charred lintel check pv
I recently got a matrix S3 for driving an LED matrix. Do I still need to set up the wifi capabilities if I'm just controlling it using the io pins for this project?
you mean settings.toml? No, if you aren't using wifi no need to do tahtt
Anyone know of some good solutions for tiny 1:220 scale street lights? Either wired or battery powered (or even some kind of glowing material) . I find most LEDs are a little too large. I've included a picture for a better sense of just how tiny it would need tk be relative to a building (20x20x24mm) lol
bare chips or light pipes?
bare chips typically need a wire bonder ($$$). light pipes need a place to hide the actual emitter (depends on the rest of the setup)
Hmm I'm not sure I haven't heard of those before. Basically I want as the smallest footprint as possible for a miniature model. The more I think about it I could construct a base to hide a very skin battery. I already have a base with NFC tag insert but I have less than 1mm to work with.
I was also looking at Adas wireless LED power coil as an option but that would only work with a massive base to fit the coil
LEDs are available in various tiny packages (all the way down to 0201), which you can tack wires to (it's tedious but doable). And you can light them with 377 cells if you need to.
if I search for Z scale street lights I get a bunch of commercial products
Another alternative for a power supply is a miniature supercapacitor. You can get them in packages the size of coin cells (for example Elna offers a 200mF unit in the same 6.8mm package as a 377 cell)
Cool thanks 👍😁
I don't think you could make them for yourself much cheaper 🙂
For something like that, only thing I can think of is to use end glow optical fiber, but you’ll need to run a light source from somewhere. If the model has a base, you can hide it in that…
Oh, @fervent rain 1:220 seems to be a pretty common scale size for model railways. Looks like there are some premade stuff online to buy or use as a DIY reference.
If you're committed to DIY, I know Adafruit has https://www.adafruit.com/product/5487 which could work, and I do see some resin-encapsulated pre-wired LEDs on Amazon too.
These ultra-fine wired LEDs are designed for model-makers and crafters but they could also come in handy for folks who want to add tiny points of light to a design without needing SMT-level ...
I'm back 🙋🏼♂️I come up with a cool idea to use the Adafruit conductive coil / led (https://www.adafruit.com/product/5141). Basically I'll compose my buildings inside the coil (with LED lights). It got me thinking about other potential uses for the coil besides LED. I was already looking into creating some kind of monorail/train system and after a search I found people powering batteries/magnets through coils.
I was wondering if I could use the mentioned coil to power a train? I'm assuming I wouldn't need the battery as the power source would come from the coil, so I would just need to arrange magnets? Also do you think a small train could be powered either on top, below or to the side of the coil without being inside a tube?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9b0J29OzAU
This is birth video of world's simplest electric train. Thank you for watching from around the world.
(Run outside the coil) - http://youtu.be/Y1MDOerruDU
(Speed Battle) - https://youtu.be/yL0TRmprhEM
(How to make) - https://youtu.be/IXeXcbvBPJw
This “Train” is made of magnets copper wire and a dry cell battery.
Please enjoy watching this simp...
I doubt there's sufficient power available to power the train from that coil, however there are ways to deliver more power if you want a wirelessly powered train
If that's the case I'm guessing it'll be more cost efficient to use motors? I mostly just wanted a way to maximise the space the coil would fill
inductive LED street light and building to scale with the coil
Unless I misunderstand, you'd use motors anyway, the question is where to get the power to run the motors
The inductive coil used to power the LEDs is not the same kind of coil that would drive a magnetic train.
While it may be possible to power such a train, I believe the losses in the inductive power transfer would make powering such a train very difficult compared to the single battery setup in the video.
The setup in the video is modifiable to work with two external coils, but the constraints of the magnets remaining in contact with the coils needs to be maintained. The efficiency will also be significantly reduced, as the magnetic field is stronger inside the coil compared to outside.
Desk of Ladyada - Breakout Board Backlog https://youtu.be/oQUOjeIDtE8
We're tackling our breakout board backlog! Dusting off designs from 2021-2023 with help from ChatGPT for repetitive firmware tasks. Featured: VCNL4200 & LPS28 drivers. Plus, The Great Search is all about tubing for ported pressure sensors!
We're tackling our breakout board backlog! Dusting off designs from 2021-2023 with help from ChatGPT for repetitive firmware tasks. Featured: VCNL4200 & LPS28 drivers. Plus, The Great Search is all about tubing for ported pressure sensors!
if i doesnt want use a Virtual environment, what version i choose ? of raspbian or ubuntu
can use latest OS and just disable the restriction:
https://learn.adafruit.com/python-virtual-environment-usage-on-raspberry-pi/other-ideas#return-to-the-good-ole-days-3158331
how easy would it be to build diy steering wheel for pc with potentiometer
Changes:
-Better Wire managment to avoid them being pulled when streched
-Cleaner Look. Added A metal casing on top of the Pico to Protect it and it acts as a stand for an external screen
-Added support for SimHub and used DashStudio to connect to Ipad and Phone
-Added NeoPixel RGB strip to show Accelator, Brake, and Gear Up or Down state
something like this
Pretty easy, if your PC has joystick ports
Some PCs have dedicated analog joystick ports, often DA-15 connectors. For those, you just hook the potentiometer to the right pins and you're done. If you you want to use USB, I'm thinking a USB-capable microcontroller. You can get some useful information on that approach here: https://learn.adafruit.com/arcade-bonnet-controller
i have laptop so i dont know
potentiometer to microcontroller to usb would work then?
Er, that's the wrong link anyway. Yes, that should work. The microcontroller would read the potentiometer position and send updates to the host. These days, it's often done using one of the standard HID devices, so you don't need a driver on the host side for it to work.
This link is more appropriate to your use case
i used something like that in deej project
if you heard of it
so maybe it could work
but what about software
That depends on what you want your steering wheel to control. Some games will work with ordinary HID devices, others expect specific kinds of things
Check out simhub, they have Arduno sketches you can load and configure everything via their software. https://www.simhubdash.com/ I believe that's what the YouTuber amstudio uses in his builds. (There's a couple pieces of software similar to that)
@viscid folio two stanford students want to do a summer internship at Adafruit. Is there a process for them to apply? thank you!
Hi everyone, I am Viktor from WIZnet. I was wondering if anyone can let me know how to get in touch with person in charge of wiznet5k library?
It's on github https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_CircuitPython_Wiznet5k and shows a bunch of contributors. You could raise an issue or make a pull request there.
If your question is related to the development of the library, I would ask in #circuitpython-dev
@white compass yo
thanks for the advice!
@white compass yo
Was there any September Adabox?
No - Adafruit was busy moving the business to Brooklyn over the summer.
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is there a dark mode for adafruit learn guides?
i use the Dark Reader plugin as well as set the browser(s) themselves to dark mode and i'm pretty happy across most everything
The guides are undergoing style renovation, as you've probably seen already. No promises about dark mode, but there have been requests.
I am getting old and feeble, dark mode would be nice
I am getting nice, dark and old mode would be feeble
I am getting darker and darker, nice mode would kill me.
Hi. i dont know where to post his, but im wondering about Github Student Pack
https://education.github.com/pack
where it says that my student can get AIO+ for a year for free. but the link only leads to the support page. does anybody know what my students should do?
Could you write to support@adafruit.com about this? This came up a few months ago, but I don't know what the resolution was.
i really like the apple research paper ... "undersized kiwis" 🤣
😨
i am in pain
Quick video of a Mourning Dove Coo. High quality video and sound.
Sarcastic answers to frequently asked questions:
- The name of the species is Mourning Dove. I didn't spell it wrong. Look it up if you don't believe me.
- The title simply states what the dove is doing. It's not mourning anything, it's just "cooing". Furthermore, I'm n...
Desk of Ladyada - Pixel Shifter Proto & Floppsy Re-visit 🖥️📀💾 https://youtu.be/sJrZRJUlvhM
We've got working Pixel Shifter prototype PCBs, leveling WS2811s and inverting TM1814s—final boards are booked! Also revising the Floppsy board for 3.25" drives, adding buttons, Apple Disk support, & more. Plus, we’re on the hunt for a short rotary encoder!
We've got working Pixel Shifter prototype PCBs, leveling WS2811s and inverting TM1814s—final boards are booked! Also revising the Floppsy board for 3.25" drives, adding buttons, Apple Disk support, & more. Plus, we’re on the hunt for a short rotary encoder!
@night crescent I chose the watch face already and when i just press the button to go back and all of a sudden, the watchface that i chose disappeared
It is just back to defaulted plain watchface
this is not an official support venue -- if you're having issues with an adafruit purchase or product, you need to use https://forums.adafruit.com/ and post in the appropriate topic for your problems
Ok
has anyone ever had a similar issues with the mcp4725 breakout boards?
they generally are not hot swapable like that. what code is being run?
the module that doesn't work, doesn't worj even if it's installed before powering
#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_MCP4725.h>
Adafruit_MCP4725 dacX;
Adafruit_MCP4725 dacY;
// Set this value to 9, 8, 7, 6 or 5 to adjust the resolution
#define DAC_RESOLUTION (9)
float i = 0;
#define X_addr 0x62
#define Y_addr 0x63
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
dacX.begin(X_addr);
dacY.begin(Y_addr);
}
void loop() {
i += 0.1;
Serial.print(i);
Serial.print(" - ");
Serial.println(sin(i));
dacX.setVoltage(2048 * (1 + sin(i)), false);
dacY.setVoltage(2048 * (1 + cos(i)), false);
delay(50);
}
this is the super simple code that's running
tho i the address pin was delinked to make the dacs do the same thing
Well, the first day of Snow has arrived in Calgary
In Massachusetts, which ain't anywhere south, we hit a balmy 79°F in my town. Opened a bunch of windows to warm the house this morning.
Soon it will be pipe-freezing temps againt so enjoy the brief intermission from your high heating bills.
That reminds me, I should pull my generator out of the garage soon and test run it.
variety is the spice of life. Go with the flow.
While I haven't done it yet, I have watched videos where I am almost ready to buy a wood auger/wedge and split my own wood where I am staying warm from the exercise and maybe dropping a few pounds. I still have a wood burning fireplace.
Funny you say that, I cut down a tree and processed it with an axe, a maul, and some wedges as a fun project
Always thought it looked fun to do that
"maul" that is the word I was looking for.
Was a loooot of work obviously but it was rewarding
I thing auger is something you dig in the ground with?
I believe so
How did the wedge work out?
Like if you were putting in fence posts
I'd say the wedge is probably the best tool once the tree is felled
Best way to break up the larger pieces besides chopping through knots with the axe
Well ya, because the "felling" of the tree is where most people get killed.
You'll need multiple though, they tend to get stuck if you only have one or two
Otherwise you can use parts of the tree itself and pound those in like a wedge in a pinch
so you say "Farts, well that one is dead to me" and move on?
It can take some work to get them out, so you usally just need to put more wedges in yeah
OK so back to Amazon to add a maul and gloves to my cart, and then I am going to take down some trees in the yard, and then [totally to keep it on topic here] I am going to buy some environmental sensors to check my chimney fumes and of course temp sensors to check the room temp in the room with the fireplace and then I will need servos to control to flue, plus something something something... you get the idea
I wouldn't recommend going tooo heavy on the maul
I would say 8-10lbs is honestly pretty comfortable for me
Was using a 12lb for a bit and that was exhausting lol
I had a maul in my cart for the last year plus and I think I removed it. Time to re-reseach it.
burning green wood without drying it first will produce more smoke and coat the chimney with more creosote, I believe. might need a chimney cleaning after the season? maybe look up advice.
ha ha. its still 25c here in the gta.
Hello im curious if there is a bangle js 2 available in navy blue color on Adafruit store?
Im wondering if its ever back in stock in future so that i could buy Bangle Js 2 watch online 🙏
it is only black and pink https://banglejs.com/ and we only stock the black, sorry.
does the band look removable? maybe you could replace the band
Yupp i know the band can be removable but i prefer the watch head in different color
Okay thanks, well but i just go ahead to buy another black watch on Adafruit then. 🙂 thanks
Not sure if this is the right channel: are there any APAC-based Adafruit resellers/partners? I'm looking to propose a team activity using Adafruit boards and half of our little team is in India.
Anne's appearance on Tom's hardware is about to begin 😁 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UysDRYfZLJ8
This week we are live, and joined by Adafruit's Anne Barela to talk about her fantastic RP2350 powered PyDOS handheld.
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Thank you!
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ASK AN ENGINEER 10/23/2024 LIVE!
Hi I found that my antenna has a p65warnings why idoes it have this and what does it mean
tl;dr Don't eat anything with a prop 65 label on it.
California's Proposition 65, officially known as the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986, mandates that a warning be placed on any device, any part, and in any location where any potentially cancer-causing material can exist. That being said, most electronic devices have prop 65 warnings, as the list of hazardous materials include lead found in solder, cadmium and lithium found in batteries, etc. Does this mean electronics cause cancer? Not unless you're sticking these materials in your mouth or your drinking water.
If you live in California that label is on literally everything, everyone just ignores it
This is the datasheet of a MOSFET, but I don't understand.
In one section they state Rg is 16ohm but in the measurement they give values with a Rg of 2ohm.
So what is it?
Did they mean that they added another 2ohm?
I think that's the external gate resistance
Re: The Lady Ada's namesake, this recent video on Brady Haran et al's "Objectivity" YT channel about discovery of previously uncataloged letters to and from Lady Ada as well as other work by her gave me chills. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vetzq7EX7TU
We're back at the Royal Society to look at some amazing personal correspondence from pioneering 19th Century mathematician Ada Lovelace. More links below ↓↓↓
Featuring Louisiane Ferlier from The Royal Society speaking with Brady.
Bonus images for Patrons: https://www.patreon.com/posts/114119222
Objectivity on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/...
Coorrespondence with Herschel etc, climate science, engineering, etc.... just wow.
Includes a drawing of baby lady ada lovelace that her dad kept... ❤️
Not looking for something diy, nor for a toy. You know those quadruped robots? I wanted something alike for 2-3k max. Which can carry some weights, and do stars/different type of grounds
Couldn't really find anything off google or AliExpress (all sort of stuff it's there), so I'm asking here, in the hope someone knows anything
I'm looking for hardware recommendations.
There's a project I'm wanting to do where an actuator would open and close ( 2 outputs) based on time of day and a predetermined frequency.
I'd like the operator to be able to set the time of day by using a web interface.
I'm used to programming industrial PLC's, but I'm not familiar with hobbyist level hardware. What kinds of options do I have?
@orchid cedar time of day could be manually set, but different microcontrollers have different rates of drift. With extra hardware (perhaps, depending on the microcontroller chosen), you could get the time using wifi, ethernet, LTE, GPS, etc.
STM32?
easiest would be to add a network module so you could do NTP or get the time from the internet in some other way (still need to deal with time zone offet, and seasonal changes)
...or, you could add a real-time clock module to keep more accurate time after it's set manually
whats the coolest new toy adafruit put out?
Unfortunately the place it's going to be used will be somewhat remote and won't have access to wifi all the time. I was looking at something like an esp32 with a RTC module, but I'm not sure if they support a webserver for configuration.
Idea being that the operator could bring it closer to the house where there's wifi and a laptop to configure it and then send it back out to the field after.
@orchid cedar ESP32 should be able to operate an AP (or connect to the house AP) and host a simple web page, depending on the programming environment used (are you thinking of Arduino, CircuitPython, etc.?) ...ESP32 variants like ESP32-S2 and ESP32-S3 provide some advantages, but in theory any should work
Is it possible to mirror the image from an ssd1306 OLED to pc? What would be required? The device is not open source I'm just wanting to do this as an overlay for streaming. If anyone has info it would be greatly appreciated.
you could 'sniff' the data bus, decode it, and programmatically duplicate the display
hey guys I have a longshot here but I'm trying to find this old toy i had back in the early 2000's that was a black rectangular keychain with 6 light up buttons with this specific reflector diffusion texture. I've been thinking about this thing for the past 20 years and i finally described it to my sister and to my suprise, she remembers it but we have no idea what it was, I sketched up a little reference.
it was pretty small maybe 1x2 inches
did you have to repeat the pattern, simon-style?
i was like 4 so i dont remember :c and neither does she, all we knew is that it stimulated our brains lol
neuron activation
mightve also been a 3x3 rather than a 2x3, but i specifically remember the squares and the diffuser texture
hi friends! how are you doing?😊
I'm okay. 🙂
that's great!😄
Kind of a weird question/comment but the "open-source" licence "Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International" doesn't seem very open source to me. From my research it doesn't even let me make my modifications to the code public, which seems crazy to me...
But at the same time, it says I can if I credit the author. The creative commons website says that a copyright is neccecary for the license to work, but why make code public if you won't let people build on it
I'm quite confused, could someone explain exactly what I can and can't do with a codebase with this license
what are you seeing that has this license?
Images are from https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/deed.en
From my searching, this license is used mostly for academic papers, not code. That makes sense: freely reproducible, but you can't modify the paper (and thereby mislead the downstream recipient). For code, it ensures tight control by the original author about forks being unavailable.
Hmm, so then I can't make my own fork of this... Alright, thanks
you can't make your fork public
Yeah, sorry, that's what i mean
Do you know if I can use parts of the code (eg. certain files) in my own codebase? I only need one specific file in the code, not the rest of the repository. And that one file doesn't have a license and the top of the file (or anywhere for that matter)
"GNUboy" is in a lot of other repos, so maybe you can find it somewhere else
Yes, possibly... The reason I like this one is because it is already ported to use Arduino calls instead of SDL or ESP-IDF calls
but it shouldn't be too hard to do it myself
I searched for gnuboy_load_bank and found it in 28 other repos
And also because they compiled a large project into one file which is easier to work with (for me)
I'll look into it
Oh, cool, I see them (although most of them are retro-go forks, which I have already experimented with and decided it was too much of a hassle)
This one looks interesting, I'll work on that
https://github.com/SnDream/gnuboy_rs90/tree/7e5f416c4babc9a3ec6337768e95946a84011ff9
there is a lot of other code in that original repo that can't fall under the overall license: there is btstack code, GPLv3 code, etc. I'd look and see if that GBC file is actually lifted from somewhere else.
Yeah... This whole license seems really wrong to me because it is basically giving the author a patent with no checks for if the code is ripped, and with no risk or anything
But yeah, it is possible that the file is lifted
I mean, as far as I can tell they just pasted all the different files from GNUBoy into one file, but I'll do some looking
if the repo's applying an incompatible license to code licensed elsewhere, or claiming ownership over code that isn't licensed to allow that, well, they can't do that. 😛
IIRC, Creative Commons recommends against using their licenses for code. lots of people still do it sometimes, myself included. they have nice plain-language explanations of how the licenses work, nice license logos, nice attribution/citation guidelines, and they're pretty well-known.
Hey if I have a question about the bluefruit connect app which channel should I ask in? I'm trying to send images to my gizmo but it's telling me it needs permission to access my photo library.
If you're on Android you can long push on the app and go to info and check permissions, enable file access if it's not already.
Storage isn't an option in mine
Hmm interesting, same on my work phone. (Android 14)
should we expect to see a separate storage device when mounting one of these drives?
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-spi-flash-sd-card/circuitpython
https://learn.adafruit.com/micropython-hardware-sd-cards/circuitpython
when plugging it into a computer I mean
please ping me if ya'll have an answer
thats my code
what is the cheapest possible setup for a video greeting card. I've seen people do it with the PyBadge LC but that's still $30 each. Surely there's a cheaper way to combine a screen, a microcontroller, and a couple of buttons.
Possibly one of those programmable eInk store price tags
https://hackaday.com/tag/electronic-shelf-label/
various articles on repurposing those tags
interesting idea. thank you.
I'm trying to run a LED matrix display using a Matrix Portal S3. The Adafruit setup guide starts off with using circuitpython to program the S3, but most of the other guides I've seen online use Arduino IDE for programming. Does Arduino have a bunch of functionality that is missing with circuitpython?
Doubt it. Arduino is older and runs on lower-end hardware so there's lots of sample code in it.
it depends on a lot of factors. generally, Arduino code will have better performance than CircuitPython, and some boards don't have enough resources to do much in CircuitPython
Ok, thanks
Is there a good guide that breaks down how you actually display an image or text on a LED matrix?
and some people think russians have no sense of humor...
its up to 20 Decillion now as reported on Slashdot
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But don't exist like "smart" relay driver power strips?
Couldn't find anything for cheap
Yet relays 240v ac go for like 1/2€ each...
Yeah I can diy it, but they won't like it a the job, because they need to be from distrubutors and paperwork no sense
I’ve seen them for us plugs, but idk for 240…
Is anyone around and willing to help me understand i2c a bit? I don't understand how this device I'm sniffing writes to an address (device) and then just writes 1 byte and is done. I thought it would need the address, the register, and then the actual value.
some devices are so simple, they have one implied register
the bytes written are just data. It is up to the device to interpret that as a register address and register data
Hmmm ok. This is the device - https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/206/AK5704_Jan2022.pdf and I'm seeing a ton of writes to 0xF4 which isn't even in the register list!
Look for switched PDUs, such as this one: https://tripplite.eaton.com/2-3-2-9kw-single-phase-switched-pdu-200-240v-8-c13-c14-200-240v-input-6-5ft-cord-1u-rack-mount~PDUMH15HVNET
Switched 10/12A 208/230V PDU; 1U horizontal rackmount Pre-installed WEBCARDLX with latest version of PADM20 for IP-based Auto Probe feature Visual current meter; reversible housing C14 inlet; 6.5ft / 2m C14 power cable included 8 C13 switched outlets with cord retention brackets Temperature, humidity and contact-closur
I ended up building my own, but used triacs instead of relays. However, I have the appropriate tools, protective gear, and experience to work with mains voltage.
I wanted to roll-my-own AC SSR using triacs, but ended up opting just to spend the money and get Crydoms.
Those are convenient and reliable
I'm looking for an alternative to the X9C104 100K digital potentiometer, I need something that can receive a signal and convert it into a value on the potentiometer value.
the problem that I have with the X9C104, is that it only support Up / Down signals, and to use it I need to reset it to 0 and that pulse it up each time,
Same... I wonder why, unless they're sold only to businesses with losey pockets
Maybe I should just do diy, with a knock off plastic shell lol
Maybe something like the MCP4018?
@late fulcrum Looks good!!, Thank you so much!
I see that people use it with Arduino. is there any libraries for esp32 for this digital pot?
hello everyone
i want to do a rice spoilage detection project any sensors recommendations?
currently i am thinking of BME680
Do you know what makes rice spoil?
yeah when it spoils it releases VOC gasses
also is there any tutorials on how to set up the BME680?
i am a beginner
couldnt find any on youtube
thank yooou
Has anyone read Donald Knuths books? What did you think about them?
It's been years, my memory was they were information dense, a bit speculative, and somewhat demanding.
Desk of Ladyada - Standing Desk Complete! 🖥️⚙️🔌🔍📐📦 https://youtu.be/BWfPjphUzKA
🚀 Ladyada’s Desk goes standing! 💪 This week’s upgrades include LINAK swag, a desk-mount USB PD hub for powering gadgets, and under-desk cable management. Plus, on EYE ON NPI, we spotlighted Lepton IR cameras and explored ideas for a DMX FeatherWing. Check out the latest updates! 👉
Ladyada’s Desk goes standing! This week’s upgrades include LINAK swag, a desk-mount USB PD hub for powering gadgets, and under-desk cable management. Plus, on EYE ON NPI, we spotlighted Lepton IR cameras and explored ideas for a DMX FeatherWing. Check out the latest updates!

Lol This meme is great https://youtu.be/mDhNQPt8An0
I synced it : D
Yes, this is actually an NE555, not a "Computer Chip" but that's not the name of the meme ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Funny. But to save people some time, once you see the first 10 seconds of the video you have seen it all. They only change "camera angles" a couple of times but the chip doesn't do anything extra or different (unfortunately). Thanks for sharing. Gave me a chuckle. I like that it is an old 555 as well, appropriate for the time period of the song.
Do you guys also include random doodles on prototyp PCBs? 
Yeah, in silkscreen, soldermask, copper, whatever. It doesn't cost any extra, and it's fun
So I got a KB2040 free with a recent Adafruit order and tbh I have no idea what to do with it
It seems like it's very specifically targeted towards people who make their own keyboards?
It is the same form factor as the Arduino Pro Micro, but otherwise it's a pretty vanilla board, with a STEMMA/QT connector, and lots of available pins. YOu could use it instead of a Pi Pico, a Feather (without the battery capability), or a QT Py RP2040.
The reason we made a board that size was as a more-or-less drop-in replacement for keyboard projects that use the Arduino Pro Micro
arduino pro micros were (and probably still are?) popular in custom keyboards like ~2-3 years ago and also unobtainium during the great covid parts shortage
I believe you could use it as a SWD debugger. Just flash the latest debugprobe_on_pico.uf2 from https://github.com/raspberrypi/debugprobe/releases. Read Appendix A of https://datasheets.raspberrypi.com/pico/getting-started-with-pico.pdf to see a pinout diagram that uses the original Pico. You'll need to correlate the GPIO numbers with the KB2040 pinout diagram.
What ESP board would you all use for a 3D chart viewed from an html page and to save the reading from audio jack with a sensor to a SD card with a push of a button. I was thinking circuit python could run the 3D plot and capture live feeds. Have a second button to switch to the next row of the 3D chart.
I recently found a new micro called HC32F460JETA
super cheap (1 USD) Cortex-M4F with DSP, LQFP48, 512KB of flash, and 192KB of RAM
You can etch away the laser marking and nobody can tell which micro you are using
On this topic... Do you guys sand away your chip markings?
Like if you're gonna sell or give away your devices
most of the chip I use doesn't come with chip marking anyway so not a concern for me
This answer seems to indicate that it can: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/14430285/can-i-emulate-a-tag-using-the-pn532-without-a-secure-ic There's a link to some appropriate commands in the chip's manual that might provide more details.
thanks how can i run these cmd i m using circuit python
Good question. I'm not sure if the library has calls to support that, but it does look like it at least has a generic call_function() API where you can probably send any extra unsupported commands to the chip yourself. https://docs.circuitpython.org/projects/pn532/en/latest/api.html#adafruit_pn532.adafruit_pn532.PN532
thanks brother
Hey yall! So I've been battling some lora modules for a hot minute and this is basically a last resort to reach out here.
I have an idea to create a flight computer/ground station system with LoRa communication. I got rylr 498 modules that worked pretty well, but with fairly small range for what I was looking for, and also I plan on using a directional yagi for the ground station for more robust data acquisition. So I moved to ebyte e32 modules that I can't get working for two weeks straight now (they report transmission, nothing is received). So I plan on getting something adafruit for that application. What would you guys suggest I look into, that will be able to interface with a teensy module for data logging.
Product IDs 3072 (900MHz) and 3073 (433MHz) are just the bare modules and can be wired to whatever. I ended up using a cubical quad antenna in a similar situation to reduce polarization loss due to different antenna orientations.
This seems good. Thanks! I really hope I don't end up fighting over configuration software issues the same way I did with the e32s, though
How good is the teensy/arduino architecture support for these
There are a few libraries to choose from, RadioHead, SparkFun, and lowpowerlab among them. Some poking around on the net reveals that people have had good results with the lowpowerlab library https://www.github.com/lowpowerlab/rfm69 and the Teensy, once they had the wiring and configuration sorted (SPI, interrupt pin configuration, etc.)

Hi, really ugent need! I just bought a bluefruit and even with lateset uf2 and bootloader, it cant work with any example code! the same code works on my normal playground. is my bluefruit going wrong? anyone see the same issue?
i am doing a project and it is really depressing
I all wanted to add an ir sensor an nfc tag and a rf transiver and receive to d1 mini
Which language to choose micro python or cpp in aurdino ide
Also wanted hid support to make bad usb
@crystal ore could u help me 🙏🏻
Generally speaking, it depends on what you want to do
Well, one obvious question to ask is whether you know Python, C/C++, both, or neither? You can probably accomplish this with both platforms, so it just depends on what you think you would enjoy more and be most efficient with.
Personally, I tend to avoid Python because I prefer languages with more strict type systems (Rust my beloved). But when I do CAD, I use build123d, a Python library, because it's typically the resulting object that matters to me, more so than the code itself
And for certain projects, I go where the library ecosystem is. For microcontrollers, that's usually Arduino C++
is the "normal" playground a non-bluefruit one? what's the code? what's the issue?
Also wanted to control all this by an oled display
So instead of describing what bits and bobs you're gonna use, how about you explain what it is you want the whole thing to do?
I'd advise trying to build the project up in stages, rather than trying to do it all at once. You'll learn a lot as you go, and it'll make everything easier to troubleshoot.
Hmm I think to start with ir function actually I m not that good at coding 🥲
What's the whole project supposed to be?
Like we would have options to select for bad usb , ir transmitter receiver,wifi deauther , nfc/rfid read write emulate all controlled by button and oled display files could be saved on sd card module
So it's a little penetration testing tool?
It sounds like you want one of these: https://flipperzero.one/
Based on an ultra-low-power STM32 MCU for daily exploration of access control systems and radio protocols. Open-source and customizable
Yup
Don’t have 200 dollars also not available where I am living
😂😢
It's all open source, including the 3D models for the case. If you have access to a 3D printer and you can get the individual parts, you might be able to just build your own and flash their firmware on it
But still the cost is not in my budget
🥲 it would still cost 80-100 dollars
I mean, generally speaking, that's just what the parts cost. A completely DIY solution would still involve purchasing similar hardware
There's no easy way around that
Hmm Wht u think could we build this with esp Wht u think it’s possible
The Flipper Zero runs on an esp32
Nah bro it’s stm32
Whoops that's my bad
So the ESP32 has WiFi, bluetooth, and I think USB built in. Screen costs extra money, IR costs extra money, RFID costs extra money, sub-GHz radio costs extra money
Battery costs extra money
Input devices cost (a bit of) extra money
What you get in functionality depends on what you are willing to pay for in hardware
But it’s way cheaper than the flipper u could check the GitHub link
True
I have display ir sensor battery esp
Looked at that GH link, and found this sentence at the end of the info section:
the price of creating a DIY Flipper would exeed the price of a bought one.
🧐 hmm
If the display you have isn't a touchscreen, you'll need to get an input device of some kind. A rotary encoder would give you a selection dial and button rolled into one, and they're cheap
Have push button
But why r we fighting
Just help me with software hardware can be arranged the main final boss is firmware 😢
Yeah but the firmware you write depends on the hardware you're gonna use
Nfc/rfid pn532
Normal ir transiver and receiver
Radio rxb12 and fs1000a
Deauth can be done by esp itself
USB rubber ducky with ATmega32u4
Attiny85
@crystal ore Wht do u think
@ancient rivetyes, i mean i have a non-bluefruit one and a bluefruit one, and the same code, mostly example code only function on non-bluefruit
my bluefruit can only give red light blink twice, so weird, any sample code wont work
U using circuit python
yes
i followed every tutorial that i can found only, upgrade my bootloader, just wont work, it is a brand new bluefruit
Learn to setup CircuitPython on a microcontroller. We'll demonstrate this using a CircuitPlayground Bluefruit, but we'll also discuss how to do this for other boards, too (the process is similar).
Part of Prof. Gallaugher's Circuit Python School playlist, which he uses when teaching Physical Computing to undergraduates. Feel free to follow along...
See if it helps
yes i followed this
my bluefruit will only blink red light no matter what code i put into it
and the same code works on my non-bluefruit playground
See if all dependencies are fulfilled
See his next video of circup
And make sure all req are fulfilled
so for now, i was wondering if it is my bluefruit is broken when it came, and i dont find a window to do return or replacement at adafruit
yes, i tried circup!
Bruh then go to #help-with-circuitpython
yes, i sent a message there. thank u
@regal sinew yup it feels really bad if ur piece of hardware doesn’t work happens all the time with me🥲
Hey just a quick note on discord etiquette: some people consider it rude or annoying if you repeatedly ping them. It's generally best to check if people are OK with being pinged before doing it too much
Ok
but does adafruit do return or replacement??
Idk
See their website
Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits : Shipping & Returns - Tools Gift Certificates Arduino Cables Sensors LEDs Books Breakout Boards Power EL Wire/Tape/Panel Components & Parts LCDs & Displays Wearables Prototyping Raspberry Pi Wireless Young Engineers 3D printing NeoPixels Kits & Projects Robotics & CNC Accessories Cospla...
Could u help me building clone of flipper zero with esp
@regal sinew continuing in #help-with-circuitpython , since this seems CP related
Newbie here. Which arduino starter kit should I start with that's budget friendly? (under $50 if possible)
We have one for $45, with our Arduino-compatible board. We also have an experimenter's guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/experimenters-guide-for-metro, but that is meant to go with a more comprehensive kit: https://learn.adafruit.com/experimenters-guide-for-metro
https://www.adafruit.com/product/68 <- this one?
yes
there are cheap kits also. I got one from Micro Center quite a few years ago
and many on amazon
thank you. want to start somewhere to learn the basics first
besides arduino, you may also want to consider CircuitPython,
depends on what you want to learn
looking into as well, this is the tutorial which i'm aiming 1st https://fprime-community.github.io/fprime-tutorial-arduino-blinker/
This is the same as https://www.adafruit.com/product/3345
Circuit Playground Express is the next step towards a perfect introduction to electronics and programming. We've taken the original Circuit Playground Classic and made it even better! ...
between different starter kit, what's missing compare to the more expensive one?
what can't I do with the cheaper one?
more expensive one has a nicer breadboard, has an LCD display, remote cohntrol motor, servo more sensors, and some more components
cheaper one has a battery pack and AC adapter than the more epensive one doesn't
Is there any way to run Bruce firmware on raw esp not the m5 stick
The M5 stick uses an ESP32-PICO-V3-02 module, which has 8MB flash and 2MB PSRAM. The it adds an IMU, an IR transmitter, a microphone, RC, buttons, and an LCD display. Any board using that module or providing that amount of flash and PSRAM + the extras would run the software.
But main problem is the connections which gpio pin they use
you can get the schematic of the m5 stick and use the same pins, or change the software
there is nothing magic about the stick
Hi
Someone help me in coding
I want to add a menu in esp deauther created by spacehuhn
<@&617066238840930324>
Please do not mass tag.
And if you post the exact details of your project, the code, and any errors you run into, you will probably find someone to help you.
Writing new code from scratch... not likely. This is not a freelancing site.
Ok
A not so on topic question, but how do you actually reverse an os? There's lot's of resources for random exe/whatever format, but none for like windows?
Hello lads, does anyone have suggestions for relatively simple, ideally useful, hardware tools that could be made in the area of analog music / video creation?
I know very little about the creative process involved in making music using analog electronics and synthesizers, but I do have the technical skills to make something relatively complex.
Some ideas I had
- convertor between different voltage standards, e.g. converting the 0-10v from an ARP2600 to the 0-5V of a Serge synthesizer, could be made into a digital system with an ESP32 or similar in the middle for some signal processing too
- analog video box, VGA output and can input control voltages for R G and B to 'paint' onto the screen with outputs for clock pulses for timings with external clocks.
I'm not sure how useful these are or if there are already better solutions out there for these. TIA!
For the first idea, I'm pretty sure a voltage divider can serve that purpose. However, probably not in the other direction.
In electronics, a voltage divider (also known as a potential divider) is a passive linear circuit that produces an output voltage (Vout) that is a fraction of its input voltage (Vin). Voltage division is the result of distributing the input voltage among the components of the divider. A simple example of a voltage divider is two resistors conne...
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Reverse in what sense? Replace it with another? Run a binary from something else?
MIDI to CV converter?
What's the over/under on replacing the 50mAh battery in an ipod shuffle with an external 4500mAh battery and it working as expected? (15hr -> 1350hr playback)? Place ur bets. Will follow up when all the parts arrive.
Seems doable if you can find a way to get the wires through. It'll take forever to charge if you use the Shuffle's charger
I'm prepared for disappointment, but u gotta risk it for a biscuit
I'm a big fan of trying stuff, even when it doesn't work out
I was thinking of voltage divider on the input side and then an op amp to get the desired output and offset, also I'd like to buffer the input control voltages as well
Thanks for the recommendation, that seems a bit complex do to well, and also there are plenty of existing cheap good solutions at this point
is a usb adapter really the best option for ethernet on rpi0? all i can find that uses the gpio is the ENC28J60 and from what I'm reading it can do max 10mbit, it'd like to get at least 100 for some headroom... anyone ever explored this before?
I've used the waveshare one successfully
usb it is then...
anyone had any experience with RFM96W?
and if so, was it easy to set up and did it cause any issues?
did you use an sma or ufl port, what range and antenna etc
I found it easy to set up and use. The 900MHz version with a trivial wire antenna easily worked across a large conference center with lots of competing RF interference.
Well I aim to use the 433mhz one with a soldered omni on one end, and a yagi on the other and try to get a couple miles
Ambitious,but not impossible imo
For that kind of range, I'd probably opt for an RFM95 (LoRa), which I've gotten over a kilometer range with simple wire antennæ
r u guys making off grid text system
if somebody knows about spacehuhn deauther and how to add display option pls reply
@north cipher
if someone knows pls reply 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Bhai bta doh
You've mentioned this before. I don't know what a spacehuhn deauther is, and generally "adding a display" to something involves a fair amount of complexity if it wasn't designed to have one originally.
It sounds like it already has a display so I'm not sure what you're looking for.
How to add another display menu option
The comment chain you posted describes the process pretty well: add another addMenuNode() call for the option you want to add.
Large no of errors come by doing this I will post them later not near my pc
There is a discussions area in that repo: https://github.com/SpacehuhnTech/esp8266_deauther/discussions. This is not the best server to ask very specific questions about the subjects you're asking about. Also please don't repeat questions or "bump" your questions after only a short time
ik nobody replies there posted question there
Since there doesn't seem to be anyone familiar with that project around here, it's not likely you will get any replies here either.
I got the rfm96w:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3073
should be the same concept though, right?
And now they are here 
small SMD per hand via solderpaste and heatgun and bigger packages via solderiron
If thats what you meant 😅
void DisplayUI::addMenuNode(Menu* menu, const char* ptr, Menu* next)
can anyone tell wht that means
Looks like a constructor for a node in a linked list of menu objects?
Yes, same general idea, just a different choice of how the data is packaged
Nice
I got two rylr 498 modules to transmit live gps and speed telemetry and it works pretty well they just have terrible range and I won't be able to use them with a custom antenna
So rfm96w checks all the boxes for that
(Assuming I get them working)
They are sda scl right, not tx/rx
As the learn page explains https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-rfm69hcw-and-rfm96-rfm95-rfm98-lora-packet-padio-breakouts/pinouts, they're SPI peripherals, along with a couple of other signals like reset and interrupt.
So SCK, MISO, MOSI, and CS
Anybody have an idea what the most powerful ESP 32 to with audio input and SD card reader would be. I want it to run circuit python for 3D charts and log data and interface through HTML page
Someone posted this on Mastodon and asked for guesses on what the 3 devices were. I guessed ||an Apple 1 in the back, an Imsai 8080 in front and some sort of Telex to the right||.
I think that "telex" might be an ASR-33
Table, chair, and a pair of barstools. How'd I do?
clean up on aisle 3... :x
It reminds me of when i worked for an airline. It printed out ramp times for flights.
I used to have a Flexowriter that had previously been used by an airline for something like that. It was basically an electric typewriter with swing-up typebars, and solenoids under the keys for controlling via serial
meanwhile building circuitpython nologotech esp32-s3
worked
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howdy
guys i have a ir receiver with 3 legs the middle one is gnd what are the other 2 in perspective of round side and which is front side of the receiver
also see https://learn.adafruit.com/ir-sensor
also we are not all guys here by any means
A little off-topic, but this document expires in a couple weeks: https://cdn-blog.adafruit.com/uploads/2024/01/WBENC_Certificate_2023-2024.pdf
thanks, yes, the paperwork for renewing this is in progress
sorry sir but that was only a freindly word.....
Super Mario on ESP32-s3 ST7735S?
hey, I have a flora board but can’t see the board listed on Arduino IDE 2.3.3. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Have you added the Adafruit package index to the Additional Boards Manager URLs? It's not a FLORA, but the Arduino IDE setup steps are also relevant in your case.
this is the board and using ant the Board Manager I added. Is this correct?
Looks correct. Is that board not being detected by the PC?
maybe the board itself has an issue
Looks like it's listed as "Adafruit FLORA."
still not on mine?
You need to install the appropriate board support package
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-sense/arduino-support-setup#1-bsp-installation-2860583 it's for a different board but just do the first four steps
It's not the Arduino avr boards, you need to install the Adafruit avr boards package
I’ve installed them and now the board is shown. However I get this error while uploading
Is the sketch working?
No :/
Looking this up, it seems it's not actually an error, just a verbose thing https://github.com/arduino/arduino-ide/issues/2106
Did you get a "done uploading" notification in the lower right corner?
(Make sure you save your sketch locally before you upload)
It worked!! Thank you so much!!
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can anyone tell the process of building walkie talkie
What level of detail are you looking for? Normally there's a receiver and transmitter (or shared circuitry that does both, known as a "transceiver"), along with a microphone (and microphone amplifier), speaker (and speaker amplifier), power source, enclosure, and controls. Often all the circuitry is contained on a printed circuit board.
You sure it isn't first you get two cans and a long string...
You're right, there are different technical approaches available as well
i know it but how to amplify the audio
it would depend on the source of the audio input. various options here:
https://www.adafruit.com/category/526
are you wanting to do something like this?
[mic]-[transmitter]~~~~~~(radio waves)~~~~~~[receiver]-[speaker]
or can you clarify what you mean by walkie talkie?
we could do 2 way communication with it
with help of arduino any generic 433mhz transmitter and receiver
@ancient rivet
are you seeing an existing project that does this?
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main problem was amplifying wanna do it better
have you already built it as shown in the video?
they're pretty honest in saying the design ended up being pretty poor quality
they call it a fail @ 9:40
no i havent build that
do you have something existing? its unclear what audio you are trying to amplify
the audio receive from the receiver side i want t amplify those frequency
per that linked youtube design, line level audio output is here:
that's what you would connect to an audio amplifier
or could listen with headphones directly (no amp)
this other video linked from the comments is worth watching also, since it discusses why it did not work and what fixed it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJ25eQRbhaQ
Anyone have experience troubleshooting old PCBs? Have a piece of metrology gear from the mid 2000s that is showing a "probe connection error", and I've eliminated the probe and connection cabling up to the PCB as culprits, so the issue is probably somewhere in the PCB.
Was figuring a cracked solder joint but idk how likely that is given this is an intermittently used piece of gear powered by a 9v battery
I'd look for noise on the power supply rails first
Noise from a battery source?
Noise from the other circuitry
Wait you got it from Boeing?
Not directly, but it came from Boeing's metrology lab. Even came with a note from the lab asking for it to be sent out for repair... Circa 2017 lol
Can't say I'm surprised they didn't get this quality control device fixed given all the QC issues they seem to have
someplace as big as Boeing has got to have some in-house calibration and maintenance people, so it might be a challenging repair
It did come with their in-house calibration paperwork.
The notes in the case indicate all the lab did was change the battery and try to reseat the cable going from the probe to the box. Anything that would require opening it up they'd prob send back to mfg
I have a tiny 40x22x4mm box (1mm wall). I'm looking for ideas for cool stuff I could integrate into it?
membrane keypad on top, tiny microcontroller inside -> macro pad?
Hi
Is one of these a fake mini-e?
Or are they both real?
I heard there were dumb rgb leds with the same footprint as a mini-e.
So I'm not sure if i'm like, tripping or something
Anyone know of a Raspberry Pi hat that controls StepStick style steppers? I don't want the hats with built in.
81°55'50"N 74°37'45"W - check out street view 
WHAT IN THE WORLD LOL
Looks like that might be part of its internal test
Is it good?
I dunno. Would need the technical sheet to know if that number is acceptable or not
Ah nevermind, the device works. The probe tip rides in front of a skid... If the skid isn't in contact with the piece to be measured, the probe tip won't have the right preload and it'll say "pickup error".
Kind of the manual to not mention that.
Makes me wonder why Boeing's lab would say it's broken.
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ok anyone here use anything other then micro controllers
I have a couple duo2 and I have built a base armbian and installed adafruit-blika on them
but I dont fhind much else on how to use it
this has more power then a normal micro controller
as it runs more of a full linux for other parts. and has more storage and ram
https://docs.circuitpython.org/projects/blinka/en/latest/examples.html found what I needed
am i losing my mind or is the pinout for the Feather RP2350 got a mismatch between the Stemma/QT port and the i2c pins?
on the port its showing SDA as GPIO3 and SCL as GPIO2
but on the board itself they are reversed
SDA is GPIO2 and SCL is GPIO3
correct (according to schematics and the guide text) is SCL/GPIO3 and SDA/GPIO2 , so the STEMMA QT connector pinout is the wrong one
you can use "Feedback? Corrections?" on the left side of the guide page to submit a report, if you want
esp32-c3 rip board. how work?
I just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing something first. Thank you for confirming.
i just got $100 worth of stuff, mostly equipment. im excited to break into this hobby after a lot of time floundering
I’m surprised that it’s working at all with the screen pins just wedged into the esp32c3 holes.
ive designed PCBs in the past, but ive never worked on physical stuff
also worked on esp32s3 supermini by nologo tech
Designed a case for ESP32-S3/C3 with 0.96-inch screen. Q: Why only 3 holes? A: Top-left corner blocked by 5V pin on board; also, ESP32-S3 has LED near BAT. 📷
Making these "controll points" for my local airsoft field. Glad that we decided to use the Neopixel mini buttons. So cool to use. Actually my first time using any adressable leds
ah boo. i thought they were actual buttons got excited for a second. 😛
I suppose it could be an option https://www.adafruit.com/product/3423
By popular demand, we now have rugged metal buttons with a full color RGB LED ring light! These chrome-plated metal buttons are rugged, but certainly not lacking in flair.This is a 22mm ...
TFW there are board definitions merged, but the boards are not yet commercially available 😦
Hey yall, so I got an rfm96w module and I am trying to configure it following this page:
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-rfm69hcw-and-rfm96-rfm95-rfm98-lora-packet-padio-breakouts/using-the-rfm69-radio
but when I download the library, there is no examples for rf96
also, should I still follow this wiring schematic?
@tawdry sundialsame examples as RFM95
...or are you using Arduino? https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-rfm69hcw-and-rfm96-rfm95-rfm98-lora-packet-padio-breakouts/rfm9x-test
yes, I am
so I used the Soldered-LORA-RFM96W-Arduino-Library
I have another question - I used the default send receive code, and it works great, with around 10 packets per second (with a single hello as a transmission). Could I somehow squeeze out more speed of it with some packet magic or no?
LoRa has a variety of transmit levels, spreading factors, and so forth. Basically you can trade off range for speed.
With some setting tweaks?
Anyone have a preferred open source CAD software? I use SolidWorks for work, but it's only licensed for my work computer. I'd like to be able to use it on my personal computer.
Only one I know of is FreeCAD. I picked it up a couple times before, but I still tend to use Fusion 360 more often despite its closed source.
I use build123d, but that is a Python framework so that may not fit your needs super well
Oh thanks! I've used the native cpp on the arduino ide, will have to look into circuitpython
Oops, I guessed wrong from the CircuitPython links you had pasted above
oops, the links anecdata pasted...
Is there a way to do it through c plus plus? Surely there has to be
I don't know though, because I am using a non-adafruit library technically
It depends on which library you're using (there are several of them out there), but most of them support those settings
.
I am currently using this one, so I'll have to look into it
Very impressive for such a small module
Looks like that library has a bunch of examples, including some that set those parameters https://github.com/SolderedElectronics/Soldered-LORA-RFM96W-Arduino-Library/blob/main/examples/LoRaSetSpread/LoRaSetSpread.ino
was looking exactly at that file too. thanks though! this forum is very helpful
from here I can extract all properties that can be set:
https://github.com/SolderedElectronics/Soldered-LORA-RFM96W-Arduino-Library/blob/main/src/LoRa.cpp
What is the type of foam used for packaging microcontrollers?
it is conductive
I see them used for protecting the pins but don't know what it's called
Just need something to protect the pins while sitting in a box
non-conductive foam can cause electrical damage due to static
also called anti-static or ESD
Usually you can find it under "pink anti static foam" or if you want the black stuff then use black. Some places, often incorrectly, interchange the words like anti-static, ESD, dissipative, or conductive foam.
another question, so turns out using the soldered lora rfm96w library, it claims it is transmitting at 868Mhz. is that even possible?
Weirdly, I seem to see the black variety of anti-static foam more
what I notice is that the signal strength dropped significantly
I am not sure the module is even capable of transmitting at that frequency
The "900MHz" modules have a fair amount of range, 868MHz should work fine, but your antenna may need a little tweaking
it is a 433 Mhz module though
Hi, I was wondering if anyone could answer a question or two about the adafruit motor featherweight board, the one that controls 4 motors or 2 steppers. I'm trying to get this to work with a raspberry pi 🙃
And then there is DigiKey confusing everyone with their light blue "Static Dissipative Bags".
Seems like most standard microcontrollers pin headers are 6mm tall?
you mean DIP size like the standard Arduino 328P?
if you just throw these in a box the pins are not going to get bent unless you mash them together
that particular form factor has been around since the 1960's
ah ok, the microcontroller board, not the chip itself
I store mine in a plastic adjustable-driver parts box which I have put copper foil tape or pieces of black conductive foam.
Funny I was just measuring some yesterday was I was searching Digi-Key for different sized pin headers and I couldn't remember what the "standard" length was vs the shorties and the long ones. Yes, it is about 6-ish mm give or take a quarter depending on manufacturer. EDIT... at least for standard 0.1" (2.54mm) pitch headers. Edit2... and talking about the part that would be pushed into a prototype board for instance, not the side that gets soldered.
Yeah, that module would have very low (if any) output at 868MHz
gotcha
There should be a way to set the transmit frequency via the library
looks like the closet I could get to is foams for mechanical keyboard
3mm though..
Ah looks like they're also goes by the name "PE foam"
PE form is the type of closed cell foam used but PE I don't think necessarily means anti-static or dissipative unless made specifically to be that way.
Ask away; if you ask to ask, we’ll never see your questions haha
Fair! I was just hoping someone could show me what the pins do/are used for on that particular motor controller. I just want to spin a motor using the raspberry pi instead of Arduinos
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-stepper-dc-motor-featherwing/pinouts shows the pins used. Specifically, the logic power and I2C data pins (4 wires in total) need to be connected to the pi.
Ok, so what I don't understand is what exactly do I send to which pins. I have my i2c and logic pins hooked up to my pi
So I connected my pi's i2c pins to the i2c pins on the controller but when I run i2cdetect I don't see the address
make sure the grounds are connected between the two, too
Ok, I made sure but I don't know which of the logic pins are power or ground, it doesn't specify in the docs
And when I swapped them around the raspberry pi crashed lol
Ok actually it seems like either my connections were bad or the board itself is damaged because I used a new one and it is being detected now
Any resources/reference for high watt usb power delivery? Not for a charger but for a device that accepts those specificstions
This sort of thing? https://www.adafruit.com/product/5807
you guys can prototype online
i am using. it
but I want to get adafruit helping make parts for it in the future
fori2c
like the i2c encoder
and some generic code
it should be able to be other boards
better demo
but I think it needs update
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In reference to @late fulcrum 's reference, I recently had a transformer (AC to DC) for an LED light fail on me. the transformer outputed 20V for the light. After a bit of searching, basic dedicated transformers that light would have cost me about $14. I decided instead to buy a USB 65W PD charger for $10 and added a "power delivery dummer" board to it (although not Adafruit's version) which works great and cost me less. And later if I retire that light I have a 65W PD charger to use for other things.
The advantages of newer technology, mass production, and flexibility
i will try FreeCAD. I'm not opposed to purchasing a licensed CAD software if it is reasonable and not subscription-based.
FYI Fusion 360 is free for non-commercial use.
I see. It's downloading now. Thank you! 
FreeCAD v1.0 got released a few days ago, worth a try too
I haven't tried it yet (I tried earlier version) but it seems like they partially fixed the topology naming issue there was so really worth a try!
RealThunder's work on topology was the 'killer app' as far as I am concerned.
Ondsel is another take on FreeCAD, where they're trying to improve the user experience.
Ondsel recently shut down
Yeah, but in open source, a lot of times you either die a hero or you live long enough to see yourself become the villain.
I wonder, how would I increase the lora's bandwidth using this library?
https://github.com/SolderedElectronics/Soldered-LORA-RFM96W-Arduino-Library
using setbandwidth seems to just freeze the transmission
and is the default bandwitdh of the rfm96w 7.8kHz?
oh wow, I hadn't heard. that's a shame. site says it's going offline today.
is anyone aware of a service that makes color coded pin headers like https://www.adafruit.com/product/3907 but with customized or at least alternative color layouts?
trying to mix individual segments from these https://www.adafruit.com/product/4154 is turning out to be waaaaay more of a hassle than I expected, and they frequently don't sit evenly with eachother
unless cloud based, a lot of licensing are a lot dumb to circumvent... I'm not suggesting anything
Boom boom boom nerf boomerang
I'd have to read the chip documentation to see what that function is doing. In my understanding, LoRa bandwidth is controlled by coding rate and spreading factor, so I'm not quite sure what setSignalBandwidth() is controlling. I don't know if the chip has a "default" bandwidth, that's presumably configured by the library. Are you changing bandwidth in the middle of a transmission? Does it freeze on the send side or the receive side? Note that the receiver would need to be set to match the transmitter.
It appears to be an ordinary black header block with paint or stickers on top. You might be able to paint a header yourself or print up a custom sticker (punching the holes in the sticker might be tedious, I don't know if you could laser cut it or somesuch)
Generally when I try to use different color headers along the same row, I often plug a longer connector on top of them all to keep them aligned while soldering. Or I use a stack of proto boards to set the headers into with the board on top and solder with the stack keeping the headers more or less aligned. And then of course the other trick is to only use the white headers (the yellow ones are reasonably light colored enough as well) and then I will color the sides of the VCC, 3.3, Bus, etc. pins with red Sharpie, the grounds with black Sharpie, then then others can be colored with blue, green, etc.. If you have access to a lot of different nail polishes in the house, they might work on darker colored headers.
I think I have mastered VSC Marketplace with GIT, and I have published an updated extension. I forked the circuitpython ext from Joe Devivo. I fixed the stubs and boards build script, updated the node/npm to V20, fixed some code that needed to be ES6 (with the help of ChatGPT) . What a process to be a publisher on the VSC Marketplace.
It needs testing from other users who use this ext.
cool set of skill tree charts for life/maker skills, where you can check stuff off as you build your skill. ~60 domains so far, like electronics, 3D printing, baking, travel, auto repair, amateur radio.
Those are so cool! Todbot and I chatted about them on a recent episode of our podcast
I really like that it is an eclectic list of skills and not restricted to only techy things such as programming. Where else can I track self-care, dancing, and 3D printing? 👍
ha, I didn't notice they appeared on my bluesky timeline because Todbot reposted them
@obtuse summit Why you invite me to a quiz party? lol
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Where do i start with making wearables?
Let's say I'm making a helmet light up
I'll generally start at what I'm trying to accomplish (making a helmet light up) and work backwards. To make it light up, you'll need a source of light. There are a bunch of possibilities (LEDs are a popular choice, but hardly the only one). Do you want the whole thing to glow, or lines or points of light, or something else? Do you want a color? Do you want the color to change? Do you want it to stay light, or fade or blink? The answers to these questions will guide what you need to make it happen.
ok where is there some sample i2c c code for the i2c encoders ?
which encoders for what language? Are you referring to a previous post?
we where looking at the adafruit i2c rotor encoder and cpp
ok
i want to take a bunch of single color LEDs (pink), in a strip. i found something on amazon, but i have no idea which Adafruit board can power it. i want lines on it to glow, like tentacles going from the front to the back. i also want them to throb like a heartbeat
you would use heartbeat function and map it to a gpio pin tht the led connect to
what board and what language ?
could you link to the product?
Ah, that's 12V strip, so you'll need to come up with a source of 12V
I'd prefer some sort of rechargeable battery, maybe 4 double As?
Either way, how would I control it to throb?
Just saw this
Would I need to write one from scratch? I know Python. I have no idea what board, I haven't bought one yet
dimming isn't well described, 12V PWM? if so, you'll need to control the 12V with a mosfet or something similar.
you woud have to know what board and what libs you need
are you going arduino or esp32 or pico
alot you have to figure out
are the always on or do you want them to twinkle
what light strips ?
How do I figure out what board and library would be best for this?
Always on
These light strips
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FT2HS7S/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A3EQ9YSF2FB8FU&th=1
What do you mean "isn't well described"?
Pretty much any board can manage it. If you want to use Python, choose a board that supports CircuitPython. Basically you'd use a PWM output to control a transistor that drives the LED strips, then have your code vary the PWM duty cycle to vary the brightness.
It might be worth choosing a board that can operate from a 12V supply, since you'll have a 12V supply anyway to power the LEDs
I need to research PWM
It's basically turning on and off rapidly, with the proportion of the "on" time variable. Most microcontrollers contain hardware that can do most of the work for you.
So, essentially I need a setup something like this?
Plus all the grounds connected together, yes.
Though if this is for a wearable, a portable 12v supply may be hard to source.
What's a good LED strip to use if I wanted a smaller power supply?
Ideally, I’d opt for a 5v strip. These can, alongside many development boards, easily be powered by a usb battery bank meant to recharge a phone.
RGB is extremely common at this voltage, specific single color maybe less so. A quick search on Amazon does show some options in pink with usb connectors, which you can use with that sub connector chopped off, or skip the arduino entirely and get a usb light dimmer off of amazon.
Oh wait, you wanted pulsing effects. Maybe not the dimmer then…
@stable dove You might want to poke around this page for ideas of what kinds of addressible LED products are available. https://www.adafruit.com/category/555 They will all be multicolor but you can of course make them single color. It is just that I don't think there is such thing as addressable single color LEDs for you to be able to do growing tentacles and other animation effects.
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Thank you
if you're stuck with 12V, they do make rechargeable higher voltage battery packs but they tend to be bulky
Has the black friday sale been announced yet?
This awesome and super helpful community helped learn so much and get through my first led project. I’m team adafruit for life
Is there any tour for the adafruit facilities?
Nope, sorry, no tours.
Sad hahaha
plenty of factory video on youtube, though
Tempted to joke about applying for a job there, but using that to get a tour seems excessive unless you’re actually looking for work…
Sounds like someone is scheming. 🤣
Just gonna throw my artwork here
Using Krita, fully FOSS
Also, any advice on class D amplifiers making popping sounds when idle? It's driven by a Pico running circuitpy PWM audio
Should I just switch to a Class A instead?
Nice 👍
Yay FOSS, nice drawing. It could be your problem is the signal or power supply: if so, changing to class A wouldn't help.
Could someone tell me what the problem is?
Unfortunately, that library is deprecated: https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_Python_DHT
It looks like it supports from .common import DHT11, DHT22, AM2302, read, read_retry but not Raspberry_Pi_Driver
Maybe look at https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_CircuitPython_DHT?
I'll test it tomorrow I'll tell you again
Does anyone have experience with the bluefruit library? I have it set up on the arduino and am trying to add descriptors but it appears to not be working when I connect to it with my phone looking at it through nrfconnect
Try the example programs first. Do you mean arduino or circuitpython?
This is on Arduino IDE. I looked at the example programs but couldn't find one that uses a custom characteristic set up to notify
This is a snippet from the sketch
does it work without descriptors?
I think the cccd stuff is going to get set up automatically when you define the characteristics. You don't need to provide those yourself. That's how we do it in CircuitPython
Here is an example of defining a Heart Rate Monitor service:
https://learn.adafruit.com/bluefruit-nrf52-feather-learning-guide/custom-hrm
Oh interesting. So I am able to write and read correctly but for some reason the android app I am working on is not seeing the items when notify is used.
Interesting that in the HRM example, NOTIFY, etc. is set by calls (SetProperties()) rather than in the constructor.
I have not used the Android BLE impl at all, really.
I worked on the CPy implementation
Now my idea is to have the app request from the arduino the current values of the variables it can modify on its side so I was writing to a characteristic and then the arduino would write back to it and notify the tablet that there is new data but maybe that is not the right way to do it?
My thought was that if I was to use write where it would use a response then there may be instances where it may not instantly give a response, so to asynchronously get the information I could use Notify on the characteristic to have the tablet check for updates on the characteristic instead of a constant read for new info
Well to check the ble service I am using nrfconnect, but I am currently writing my own Android App through Android Studio to control specific devices in a room
you could try the HRM example and see if you are getting notifications from it. It does do notifications.
there may well be an HRM client example in Android Studio or on Github, etc.
What would make more sense to do? Write to the characteristic and have the arduino give a response or to use notify to let the tablet know when to read the characteristic? Or, do I split it up into a couple different characteristics where one is to request parameters and another is to read them?
This is my output from nrf which shows that the notifications are being enabled correctly, but maybe I'm thinking about this the wrong way. I was originally assuming that if I was to have a characteristics with write, read, and notify, when writing to the characteristic it would notify the device of a change and I could read the new value from the characteristic. It seems however that notify works similar to write though where it adds a value to the characteristic and my code could specifically look for that data
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Hi! I'm little confused, does this module provide UART MIDI or not?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1381#technical-details
It does not. You could add that functionality with a microcontroller.
but pins are connected?
So I've been using the rfm96w for a while now. I am very happy with it's performance, so here is my question. The default transmission power is 0.1W afaik. Could I boost that to 5w+ with a 433mhz power amplifier? If so, what precautions do I need to take?
so unlicensed transmission is only allowed with transmitters with up to 500 mW output power and undetectable antenna
legalwise
technicaly i can’t really see a problem
It will be operated under a ham radio license
I'm not sure what you mean. I don't think the chip has an asynchronous serial port.
Hey all i am wondering if someone will be able to identify a 2 pole pin connector i have. Looks similar to a jst2 but not quite the same. The only thing i can find stamped on it it lbs1
If anyone knows what one this is it would be greatly appreciated
Try following the instructions within this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mf_rMngXQ04
The new Raspberry 5 has a new UART port, which is great because the first 4 Pi's used the hardware serial as a UART - which made debugging hard when using something like a GPS.
However, unlike the GPIO header UART, this connector is SMT, and much smaller than 0.1" pitch. While we can always contact the Pi folks for a part number, let's figure ...
Awesome thanks for that info i will see what i can figure out
What's the pin spacing? Looks like it might be an ordinary 0.1" connector (lots of manufacturers make those)
Hello there yall.
I have a feeling this question might have been asked here and I am just not aware, but is there any way I can get Pi hats working with other devices?
for context, I have a Pi sense hat but no Pi, and I would be interested in perhaps obtaining something that would allow me to access pi gpio on pc or laptops
Most pc motherboards don’t have any gpio pins exposed the way a Pi would. The ones that do have any gpio certainly don’t have enough for full compatibility with the sense hat.
For some hats that simply use a single spi or i2c bus, you could make a case for something like https://www.adafruit.com/product/2264 or https://www.adafruit.com/product/4471, but for something like the sense hat that basically needs the full header’s worth of pins, building a bridge capable of utilizing all of it will either require some development work or cost as much as a small pi itself.
All things considered, it might just be more worthwhile to buy a pi zero 2W and try that out.
Pin spacing is 2mm plug width is 6mm and depth is 11mm. Its an led light for a whirlpool fridge if that helps.
@late fulcrum
I attempted to navigate through digikey but did not find the right connector myself. But that was a short search of about an hour after deep diving and not finding it before coming and asking here. Would be great if they would stamp the connectors with a model/part number
Thx for the tips man, I was actually looking into getting a pi zero 2w but couldn't find it in stock without pre soldered pins or an alternative with better io
would something like this help?
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3945
Not unless you already have a compatible pi zero.