#general-chat
1 messages · Page 68 of 1
My "favourite" was a product that connected a LiPo straight to random usb c data pins. Up to 12.6V iirc 😡
oh i'd never put different voltages besides 5V down USB
cause im stupid enough to plug the wrong thing into it
at some point
Lmao same and that's how every connector should be designed for 😆
well the only thing im thinking is like using a USB C male and USB C female
then an enclosure that slides in
and clicks into place
as its sliding in it pushes springs to push the male out
Why can't you just take the D+ and D- pins and hook them up to some other connector?
im using the data pins for a custom protocol between expantion boards
theoretically you could probably pass I2C over USB
ground, 5v / 3.3
SDA and SCK
which means i could use I2C to create expantion boards for my device
meaning if im not doing any RF stuff i dont need the RF node connected
OMG
I KNOW WHAT ITS LIKE
FRAMEWORK LAPTOPS
Ah kinda copy their design with their slidy modules?
I mean there is already PCIE over USB so why not I2C 😆
yes
like that but a bit bigger
but yes
basically
that
well it wouldn't be the USB protocol or anything just using the connector
but using the slidy module thing (technical term)
to create expansion boards
In 2020, I was the first YouTuber to make a video about “Meshtastic,” created by Kevin Hester. The project name was a merge between Mesh and Fantastic. Already then, I loved the project. But why is it the “most dangerous LoRa project”? Here is the proof: My video was included in a study titled “NETWORK-ENABLED ANARCHY” by an organization feature...
ive considered reusing sata before, for modules within a custom enclosure
would that be a bad idea?
I'll just reiterate that I generally don't consider it a good idea to use a connector designed for a specific purpose for anything other than that purpose, unless you can guarantee backward compatibility. If you want to use a SATA power connector as an easy way to get 12, 5, and 3.3V that's fine. I don't recommend using a SATA data connector for anything beyond SATA (or SAS).
the general idea was to have a cheap pre-made cable with diff pairs for connecting fpga's
CAT5e/CAT6
id assume that if the voltage parameters in the fpga are sata compliant, it would at least not fry a mis-matched module
and it only needed 2 pairs, and very short range, within a single enclosure
Yeah, at minimum it shouldn't damage any down/upstream devices expecting it to be what it is supposed to.
How fast?
digital audio, so fairly slow
usb2 would have enough bandwidth, but i dont want the jitter/latency usb adds
and dedicated rx and tx lanes would greatly simplify the interfacing
Honestly with that you could just twist a couple wires together and be fine.
i was mainly going with sata, because pre-terminated cables of the right length are cheap, and it has diff pairs
Well, if it won't break an HDD when you plug it in I don't see much harm.
yeah
If you want to go hilariously overkill, DisplayPort is technically capable of sending audio only.
lol
It can do a lot of channels.
the goal was more about having a number of modules, that can do 16 or 32 channels in or out, with various ports (analog, digital, xlr)
and then connect them all back to a main board, that transfers it over ethernet to a pc
Ok, in that case DisplayPort might not actually be that insane.
and then mix&match the modules, to get the number&type of ports you need
Shameless own-company plug: A2B was designed for this type of use case (well, automotive).
my target was going to be studio/stage recording/mixing
but then i got stuck trying to implement dhcp in verilog, and lost interest in the project
Funnily enough, that's technically valid :P
You need to see some cursed cryptocurrency mining-oriented motherboards
they're the ones that do PCIE over USB cables right?
And aren't they even USB-A to USB-A? 🤔
(I am not involved in cryptocurrency, but I remember somebody compiling some in a twitter thread (before that was acquired))
Yeah, that kinda stuff
wait, so all the Adafruit boards are just YouTuber merch? 😆
I mean, they even had plushies at some point! :>
I remember the prior time I was upgrading my desktop, maybe 5 years ago now, I got to work and I'm like "Look at this bizarre and twisted cryptocurrency mining motherboard I found!" and my coworker's like "Yah, cryptocurrency mining rigs are a thing, but have you seen homebrew Powerwall hobbyists?"
yeah
John Park is my fav streamer
then Lady Ada
So, hear me out for a second.... what if A2B for polyphonic eurorack modular synth modules?
why? he's handsome...
and products he picked always priced 50% OFF

I'm actually really glad that the crypto thing has cratered at least well enough that I didn't feel like I was lighting money on fire buying a fancy new nVidia card because OMG they optimized the heck out of my RAW converter tool for nVidia GPUs and that was killing me.
Interestingly, I've never watched any of the adafruit streams
Honestly I don't know much about it, but I know that some cars need very low latency bidirectional audio transfer for noise cancellation and beam-forming... so I imagine it could potentially have some stage or studio applications.
WE ARE LIVE! SHOW AND TELL! https://youtu.be/MH-INwe0e5Q
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ASK AN ENGINEER 9/20/2023 LIVE!
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Ok, I need some ideas: I've decided that I'm going to make a computer case that is designed to look like a Tandy TRS-80 Model III. The question is: what do I do with the floppies? I was thinking one could be a recessed panel for USB connections with a door that looks like a floppy drive, but I'm hoping for ideas for the second floppy that are more interestng than a shelf where I store USB drives.... Ideas are appreciated.
Not useful, but the first thing that came to mind was the lights on KITT (the car from Night Rider)
Could also hold a battery to run the computer
Pop open to show a screen with stats (cpu temp, fan speed, etc)
Fancy biometric panel
Place to charge your phone
That's all I got...
The world really does need new larson scanners, doesnt it?
I feel like it isnt in line with the retro look I was picturing, but that maybe I need to re-evaluate my plan....
Oh, new rules to apply to my idea set...
I assume a pop-tart toaster isn't what you were thinking either...
no. I don;t think I want to shoehorn a heater and a cooling system into the same homemade computer case...
You could always use them for ... floppies https://www.adafruit.com/product/5679
Last thought I had was hot-swap components (SATA HD, GPU), or an actual Blu-ray drive
You can put a card reader there (magstripe, PCMCIA, CF, SD, MMC, chip cards, NFC, etc.)
You can buy USB hubs and hard drive bays that fit in floppy drive bays.
red hot tiny pepper
I was thinking it would be a computer I'd actually use, and I really have no use for floppies.
A blu-ray drive.... I haven't used one in quite a while, but that is actually something I might use once in a while...
They're fun for playing music
And for reading old data
(alt: A floppy labelled "system restore disk do not erase", stuck on a fridge with a magnet)
Is anyone abe to tell what are those white looking led?
They emit a blue light
The piece comes off from an aquarium lamp
So I fear that they may be some uvc thing? From the net I see that they should be violet, but idk
Absolutely not UVC, those are expensive specialty items.
"white" LEDs consist of a blue LED and a phosphor that converts some of the blue light to longer (green/yellow/red) wavelengths. Some use less phosphor for a bluer light (useful in aquaria). Also, as they get old, sometimes the phosphor wears out and you get more blue.
why would one expose their fish to UVC?
It's been a while so I might misremember: But I think for an aquarium you don't want UV. UV light apparently helps algae more than it helps the plants
To grow SUPER-FISH, obviously.
So I'd assume that an aquarium lamp doesn't have dedicated UV LEDs. But it definitely can have blue or violet LEDs. My aquarium lamp had a mix of different led colours
For reference, this is what a UVC LED looks like. The price has come down, so they can be obtained at under $10 apiece now. https://cisuvc.com/images/cis/landing/Products_LEDs.jpg
Please stay away from the cancer LED
I'm old fashioned, so when I want UVC (which isn't often), I get it from a mercury vapor discharge (thereby yielding a trifecta of danger: the UVC itself, mercury, and high voltage)
In which applications do you need UVC?
(Beside disinfecting spaces you'll definitely not be in while it's running)
During the early days of the COVID epidemic, I used it to sterilize mail before bringing it into the house. At one point, I used it to get the musty odor out of a plastic jug. Note that I do have and use the appropriate protective gear.
Yeah, this looks horrifying
hahaha
Talk about using a nuclear bomb to get rid of a mosquito
It can be eerily pretty
Did the plastic grow all brittle after the treatment?
I'm sure it took some life off the plastic, but it was that or replace the entire jug, so I went for it
hopefully the Resulting Crosslinked And Otherwise Denatured Thing is still food-safe
There was the time a dance club liked the look of sterilizing tubes and lit their place with a bunch of them. It ... didn't go well.
The same thing happened in some high fashion show
I remember Big Clive made a video about it
I have the same lamps, that why I was asking
Anyhow the boss asked me if that thing was repairable
It seems that the lamp had infiltration so the cheap electronics is screwed
Also the led array seems to have contacts problems, so it's likely the same cause
Those aren't particularly repairable. In a few cases, an individual LED has died, and you can bridge across it and the others will still light (for a little while). In other cases, it's a major project to fix them.
Yeah but I can't just tell him that it isn't fixable
He should either buy a mew one or new electronics with a load of glue or sealing
A while back, I found a smashed 400W street light lamp. But the inner capsule was intact, so I tried lighting it. Lit right up, and produced an amazing amount of ozone. Notes: don't try this at home, and yes I was wearing the appropriate protective gear for the UVC (and cleared the room so I didn't breathe the ozone for long).
He should probably invest in water-resistant electronics anyway given infiltration was a problem :)
Instant global disinfection! :P
Why did a street lamp produce UVC? Or did you substitute the lamp?
He wants the casing because it fits the aquarium
But whatever
Presumably this lamp had its outer envelope coated with phosphor, which was excited by the UVC from the inner discharge.
Hi can someone help me with this small snippet of code?
im trying to use the signal from a ir reciever module to toggle the state of the d2 pin, what is wrong with my code?
digitalWrite(2, !digitalRead(2));
}```
Yes pin 2 is output, as u can notice i have other if statements aswell so the others definitely work
if the phosphor was stripped away by the conditions or something
my keyboard
The entire outer envelope (along with its phosphor) was missing when I found it
I don't know what digitalRead() does when used on a pin configured as an output. It seems like it ought to work, but I'm not sure. It's also possible your code is going through the loop and toggling it twice so you get a pulse instead of a state change.
I guess it'd depend on the micro's arch
They'd probably have to look at the docs, and possibly keep track of the pin's state in an array or something
it wont be able to go through the loop twice fast enough for me to not notice, theres a 100 ms delay justbefore the loop ends
Maybe throw a Serial.print() in there to see what's happening?
i was thinking of using a random int x to assign it as 0 at the start in the setup loop. then use %2 everytime to check if its 1 or 0 and based on that change the state of the led, it would also be incremented just after the conditions are fullfilled so it is always opposite the next time i press a button
hmm yea, i can try that
fixed it, it was my moronity and the hex code was supposed to be 946 not 964. thanks
We call those EBKACs
Error Between Keyboard And Chair
I experience many of those throughout my day
The classic Layer 8 issue.
The one I've heard goes "Problem Exist Between Keyboard And Chair" -> PEBKAC
I like ID-10-T https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User_error
(only apply that to myself)
IBM error for me...
I've been getting 500 errors on some learn guides, wondering if it's just me or others get it too? ex: https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-essentials/circuitpython-resetting
^^ Me also, I just figure it's temporary.
getting lots of errors on losts of sites right now actually. some isp must be having a hiccup
Cloud flare issue?
hey all, i’m in an engineering class atm and we are doing a survey to collect data for our final project it’s like 5 questions, if you could fill it out, that would be awesome https://forms.gle/j1KN6q4qRiQY934K9
its always a sad day when you break the new thing you are working on and an equally happy day when you upgrade the broken part and modify the design to make it fit
thanks to amazon the happy day was only 1 day from the sad day
Hello everybody.
I'm using an ESP32U board. Which firmware should I use?
Now I'm using the "DOIT ESP32 Development Board", but I can't get the CPU temperature and other data.
What firmware? Circuitpython?
Yes.
Has the monster m4sk been discontinued?
I have a project I'm working on and the monster m4sk is exactly what I need
are there alternatives?
It's listed as "out of stock", not discontinued. Possibly because one of the parts it uses is (still) in short supply. As for alternatives, it's basically a pair of displays, you could get the displays separately or use other products that contain them.
It may also be a seasonal item: I doubt a lot of people buy them in February. However, October is just around the corner, so perhaps they'll make another batch.
it has been a chip shortage issue
I saw the Samd51 had a bit of stock on Digi-Key last I looked 🙂
Adafruit product suggestion: wings, BFFs, etc. for each size form factor (QT Py, Itsy Bitsy, Feather, Metro) with high-pixel-density (color) display. There are ESP32-S2 & ESP32-S3 TFT MCUs with 240x135, but no wings near that pixel count / density. Closest Metro shield is 2.8" 240x320 (lower-res perhaps due to the touch screen). 5x5 NeoPixel BFF is the densest QT Py size. There are lots of good displays available separately, but with more complex wiring and packaging options. There are a small number of 3rd-party choices, though not optimal for various reasons.
Like this?
I need to re order the boards as I accidentally swapped the pin order (classic mistake for display connectors)
oversized, but yeah... what's the pixel count?
This is the 0.9” TFT I think 128x64?
I'd also like a true-BFF-sized color display... fewer pixels, but high density like the ESP32-S3 TFT
Ah it’s 80x160
ah, that's better
I bet there's a 100x150 or even 120x180 that would fit on the back of a QT Py with no overhang
It doesn’t look like TFTs get smaller than the 0.96” ones
probably similar display to what's on the Joystick featherWing
Correct
0.96" 160x80 is 186 PPI
1.14" 240x135 is 242 PPI
2" 320x240 is 200 PPI
that 1.14" 240x135 is in a really sweet spot... very crisp text and vivid color
Is the 1.14” 240x135?
yup
Ah wow, cool
You could make a qt py bff that has smt mounted headers so you can do a larger display
There’ll be a little bit of overhang
But would be pretty cool
like the 320x240 and 480x320 FeatherWings I suppose
Yeah
the 1.3" 240x240 is 261 PPI :p
but square is awkward on typically rectangular boards
I'll stick with the Feather TFTs until something else comes along
rounded rect 1.47" 320x172 is 247 PPI https://www.adafruit.com/product/5393 (too wide for a Feather though)
can you tell I'm all about finding the right pixel density? I was irked at Apple for coming out with a 32" 6K display that won't run at any intermediate resolutions between 3K (not enough pixels) and 6K (too small pixels). My sweet spot for a computer display is 100-110 PPI, so I went with 43" 4K display that runs at 4K.
anyone got a good way of connecting like
26 buttons to a micro controller
using the smallest amount of pins as possible
kinda like a keyboard
wait better way of explaining
like one of these bad boys
i used to have a chart somewhere but i can't find it
Do it like a keyboard! 😄 "Keyboard matrix"
but if i wanted to make one of my own instead of buying one
i want a cool project
well i have an 8bit shift register somewhere
think i'd be able to use that?
or would that be frivolous
You shouldn't need to
i've never had anything i need to use it on

well tell a lie, i used it for parity once
But for a keyboard like that I'd say you need 14 or so pins?
well there are 26 letters in the alphabet
if i wanted numbers that would include another 10
cause with my tool
i do not want a digital keyboard
i hate digital keyboards
so i wanna make it like a blackberry kinda
it's gunna be big
got a 3.5" capacitive touch TFT display on the way to me
gunna be powered by an ESP32-S3
with a 32GB SD card to store pcap files
14 pins being for 40 keys
ohhhhhhh
4 rows of 10
the S3 has 40 afaik
i haven't counted them
but its a long boi
i think im gunna write another tool that can use LoRa to transmit wifi data sniffed from a device
meaning i can connect the transmitter to a network ≈1000 meters away
transmit the files back over LoRa which will be transmitted through bluetooth to a program i'll write
But how many buttons do you want
I found the chart again
13 minimum without any support circuitry
what kind of support circutry
ICs and such
infact i might just get a digi key
https://www.instructables.com/64-Key-Prototyping-Keyboard-Matrix-for-Arduino/ here's a random tutorial for key matrix with an Arduino. Tbh I haven't read it fully 😄
64-Key Prototyping Keyboard Matrix for Arduino: 1/30/21 Update: I have completely rewritten the code for this keyboard. See the new "Update" step at the bottom.
I am currently working on a project that will have an integrated keyboard, which presented a problem: how do I include a keybo…
and use that to transmit it all over I2C
wait the digikey doesn't have enough pins
i have one somewhere
i'll use this
OMG
IMMA MAKE IT LIKE A NINTENDO DS
that gave me the best idea ever
thank you mister / miss pengu
i might do that but wire it into a PicoW
cause im gunna need another wifi transmitter anyways
so i can double up on the ap flood thing
but that way i can use the pins on it aswell
use I2C to transmit the keycode
or i could use bluetooth
because then i can make it remote controlled
idk
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4918 Adafruit also has this dedicated thingy for if you want a keyboard matrix but I2C. I think you could totally copy that but with a Pico
It's a GPIO expander, it's a keypad matrix driver... its the Adafruit TCA8418 Keypad Matrix and GPIO Expander Breakout - a cute and powerful I2C GPIO expander and keypad matrix ...
Lol
How much £ do you spend on aliexpress per month?
SO MUCH
😭
i just see so much cool stuff
its a problem
its really a problem
😭
You will end up with the home of a hoarder if you don't rein it in!
qwq i know
i have like
20 mcus
at this point
I guess you could put the aliexpress domains in your adblocker blocklist :P
ublock origin has strict blocking, which you could leverage to keep yourself honest
yeah but then i'll need something for a project im working on and then i'll not have it
and wont be able to order it
Has anyone of you ever seen an half decent cooking robot Project?
On consumer electronics all I see are fancier pots, on the net crap
Hey, folks! Today is my last day with Adafruit, and was my last day as an admin here on Discord. Thank you for being wonderful, and for being one of the biggest reasons I was drawn into this chapter of my life in the first place. We should all be proud of what we built together here, and of this thing we are a part of. Helping build this community is one of the most amazing and fulfilling things I have done over the last five years. Thank you for accepting me as a leader in this community and for giving me the opportunity to experience building an open source community. Every day here I watched folks being great to each other, having a positive impact on each other's lives, and helping out in untold ways. I know you will continue to be wonderful, and that you will keep this momentum going. I'm not going anywhere; I'm simply participating in a different capacity from here on out. Thank you again, and see you around! 💜 😊
As your last act as an official mod here you should have pinned that post.
I beg to differ. I'd have said 11 is the absolute minimum for a 26 key matrix. Either 5 by 6 or 4 by 7.
13 for 36, not 26
I wonder if you can Charlieplex a switch matrix...
i believe so, though usual Charlieplex caveats apply
26(or any amount, really) keys can be done with 3/4 pins if you daisy chain enough shift registers. Would get slower the more inputs to be read, but pin number would remain constant
But as long as you aren't short of pins, a 5x6 (or perhaps slightly different shape) matrix sounds like the easiest way
I've been known to use the HT16K33 chip, which is ostensibly an LED driver, as a keypad controller, as it can control up to 39 keys, and takes care of the scanning and bookkeeping for you (and if you want to light LEDs too, it's a win)
I wonder if you can connect them in parallel to@increase the current output, these are the ip5306
Read the datasheet. If it explicitly says you can, then it's probably ok assuming you are able to wire them together correctly (parallel connected regulators tend to have additional requirements on the feedback path, and in the case of switching ones there may be some additional synchronization signals).
That might work so long as your supply can drive them. But it would probably be easier to buy a supply that can deliver more
They use 3.7v lithium batteries
another option, slap another MCU with more free gpio on 1 pin (plain old uart)
have the 2nd MCU scan a matrix, and just report key events over serial
now you have the speed of a matrix, with even better pin savings!
the keyboards i've been working on use a USB-enabled MCU to talk to the host, and I2C to talk to two (cheaper) key scanner MCUs. (they're split keyboards, so one scanner per side)
It's a GPIO expander, it's a keypad matrix driver... its the Adafruit TCA8418 Keypad Matrix and GPIO Expander Breakout - a cute and powerful I2C GPIO expander and keypad matrix ...
Yep. I just made a 2×6 keypad that emulates a USB keyboard. Managed to squeeze it all into a Trinket. Used all 5 available I/O pins, though. The Arduino Keypad library will scan the matrix for you. Even handles debounce and multi-key presses. Just need to have enough pins to attach to rows×columns. You can get away with up to 2 keys pressed at a time. If you want to have 3-key combos, you'll need to add diodes to each key switch to prevent false keypresses. The INO file uploaded here does all the scanning and keyboard emulation. Something like a Feather M0 Basic Proto has 20 I/O pins, so could conceivably handle up to a 10x10 keyboard. If you need to use I2C, though, you're looking at 18 free pins (9×9=81, 8×10=80, etc).
https://www.printables.com/model/569035-6-key-usb-keypad/files
oh nice
I'm still working on the OpenSCAD code for generating arbitrary keypads/keyboards, but my latest test looks like this:
a bit of a silly question - new to soldering
so I need to connect my zero to this component
do I need to buy a header to connect a raspberry pi to it?
did some research - yes I do
I have the most interesting internet issue
My fiber modem seems to be dropping its traffic configuration shortly after setting up a dhcp lease. What this means is that for a short period after setting up the lease I can send/receive internet traffic. But after a few seconds, it loses the configuration and stops being able to communicate with my router.
I confirmed this happening on 3 routers and hooking directly up to my MacBook Pro. Pretty strange
Thank goodness for cellular internet
Now to wait for my provider to come out and swap in a new fiber modem to see if it will work
that's an interesting issue indeed. If only it didn't cause so much disruption
Of course you do
Are you using a zero? Most models come with the headers pre-soldered
Yep using the zero - ordered the piece I need, I just soder the pins to the arduino like I would anything else right?
yes
if you have soldered before it should be easy
I’m a complete novice but I’m ready to try lol
Yeah, spent a few hours with a network engineer who said this is the strangest thing he’s seen yet
The kit has to actually arrive at my house - luckily it does not seem like there’s MUCH I can mess up on this thing (famous last words)
plz try it first with a cheaper board 😄
Well, at least you got escalated to a network engineer, and did not have to go through the "did you reboot your modem" song and dance a few thousand times :)
I've seen things, you people wouldn't believe, hmmm.
Solder joints on fire on the shore of PCBs.
I've watched cold joints not glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser Gate.
All those moments, will be lost in time like the boards that died in rain...
Seriously though, there are harder "first solder joints". 😄
I’ll see if I can find an old controller or something and see if I can unsolder/re-solder a connection o:
good idea though that old controller or something might actually be harder to unsolder if it uses lead-free 😄
Good to know lol
Make sure to properly inspect the board before turning it on after soldering. A lot of solder fails can be cleaned up without lasting damage if they're detected before they actually cause a short
(But soldering is actually really fun and very helpful to know so I hope I'm not worrying you too much. 😄 And you don't want to see my first solder jobs)
Probably the benefit of using a local provider rather than a national provider
When i tried soldering for the first time i accidentally grabbed the whole metal heating element with my bare hands
Pay attention to what youre doing
After finally getting to the real engineers at one provider, the engineer told me the secret phrase to make the automated attendant skip the filtering and connect me to a real enginner.
you unlocked a level int he game
insert that one soldering stock photo here
More like a save point: I don't have to replay all those early levels again
I recently had someone ask me to go get a computer and turn it on so I could restart it. He refused to move further in the script until I said I had done that.
With modern windows this actually makes 100% sense😭 (if the issue is actually with the computer/windows)
I was on the phone with a scammer a while back who explained that I had to withdraw all my money from the bank in cash. So I waited 30 seconds and said I had done so. He insisted that I was lying.
Can't imagine why.
I've gotten several of them to give me a mailing address, I report all those directly to the mail fraud investigators.
lost the image, but ive seen a meme, where the tech support is asking them to reboot, and they said they did
then they open task manager, and point at the 102 day uptime 😛
Heh, imagine a system primitive enough to have task manager being able to stay up that long! There was a bug for YEARS that meant it couldn't stay up for more than 47 days, and they didn't find it, because other bugs wrecked it before it could get there.
yes, but "power off - power on" != "reboot" but for the average user it feels like those two things should totally be the same
In a well designed system, they would be...
I think "power off - power on" doesn't reset the taskmanager "uptime"
windows also cheats lately
the "shutdown" button just closes some apps, and goes into standby
we're talking about windows here 😝
so it can "boot" faster next time
ive also heard a story, where my uncle was helping my grandma diagnose printer issues over the phone
he got to the "is it still plugged in" step
my grandma replied, "that dang cat"
the cat had chewed clean thru an LPT cable
cat 0 cable or something
is it safe to solder on a wooden desk??
I solder with a silicone mat on a wooden desk. But before that I used a piece of wood on a wooden desk
The main issue is just that if you touch the desk with the soldering iron tip, it will get black and ugly. Won't catch on fire immediately. In fact, you can write and draw on wood with a soldering iron
I don't really care about ESD tbh. (I don't have a carpet but I don't really wear those straps or stuff like that)
DO YOU HAVE A SOLDERING IRON HOLDER
caps lock my bad
of course
I think this is how you use it
ok good
TIM TAMS
ive got one of these, havent bothered with desk protection, just been careful
i dont solder much
TIM TAMS
i thot i could desolder this ps3 controllers micro usb part
because my mic ubs port broke
but, can you guess what country i'm in? 😄
aussie land 😛
straya'
and to mess with people, ive been leaving a north-american smart outlet on the tim-tams 😛
mixed signals!
lol
is there a way to desolder something without desoldering wire
or is it not possible
blasted it with enough heat that all pins are molten at once
and then just pull it out
hot-air helps with that
I will buy a heat gun eventually i've seen they can make cool terrain for DND stuff
you can heat up styrofoam to make cool terrain
solder wick/braid lets you remove the solder one pin at a time, so you dont need them all molten
Hakko or fake? 😄
if the connector doesnt need to survive, cut the pins, then you can remove them one by one
desolder pump
proper hakko
nice 👍
desoldering pump thing device
apparatus thingamabob gizmo
depending on what youre desoldering its better than soldering braid
I like them generally way more than braid
They're especially good for desoldering header pins and clearing pin holes of any solder quickly.
that reminds me, one of my dads co-workers, was borrowing my dads solder pump thing
and the guard on the back was missing
when he hit the button, the plunger bopped him in the face 😛
My new camera lookin fine 🫰 🤑
This... looks ready to fall down while hot, potentially giving you some serious burns in the process
a wider shot of the desk
the cover can close over the keyboard, giving a large flat surface to work on
lol
ive been using this keyboard for decades, and changing keyboards messes with my touch typing
I used one of those for many years too
Looks like inter webs issues is much larger than just my internet
The network engineer is doing a bunch of different stuff because they’ve never seen this before
I love when my stuff breaks in ways that people have never seen before
I have a real talent for it
i already put them in the kitchen!
Pro tip for all you internet users out there: don’t put your google mesh Wi-Fi router in bridge mode. You might accidentally take out a lot of people’s internet lol
You're not allowed to be in bridge mode?
The person who had it in bridge mode managed to bridge it with the ISP directly causing a network loop in which it was acting as a rogue DHCP server. So yeah, probably not a super great idea
It didn’t help that this person was also on a network switch for a building which was not properly set up to avoid these kinds of situations
That just sounds like bad ISP network design if something like that is possible.
It is a small local isp with 2200 subscribers, the network switch in question wasn’t one of theirs but part of a housing complex. They were able to track it down and turn off their internet, called the person to tell them to not do that, and things were good after that.
Rogue DHCP server issues are incredibly rare
That's assuming you let it. If you know what you're doing, it's trivial to get the shutdown button to do a full power off of Windows. Which I always do, since my system is a laptop, so when I shut down I want it 100% off to preserve the battery while travelling with it.
Iirc even the default "fake shutdown" is to 0 power as it's suspend-to-disk
Now you make me wonder whether the "hibernate" terminology has fallen into disuse...
Of course, they describe the same action, and "suspend to disk" is clearer
I'm still curious though
i think ive also heard, that windows will wake from suspend-to-ram after say 2 hours, and then go back into suspend-to-disk
so it knows your not coming back, and goes into a deeper sleep
IIRC it does do that
Imagine doing that with a HDD laptop
while it's moving
OTOH, the chance of this happening in the present day is very slim, and I am sure windows has code that prevents this scenario from ever occurring
Is the rigol ds1054z still valid to this age or has it got replaced by something else? (400ish€)
Also a recommended multimeter for 50ish, with a light or acustic or something else reporter?
Garden haul 🤓
The best part of waking to catch the OSIRIS-REX sample capsule landing was the part where the entire advance team died mysteriously and a black government helicopter took over and moved the capsule and two mysterious survivors, a crying baby and a sterno-addicted old guy, to a secret government laboratory protected by a nuclear warhead.
(It's a joke, don't worry)
It's been a bit since I read "The Andromeda Strain"
And now I've added another book to my library queue...
I did my first podcast episode on OSIRIS-REx fairly short and sweet
I did pretty good for my first episode, 2 listens so far
Kind of cool that they landed it in Utah where I currently live 🤓
Unfortunately it didn’t land on my house so I didn’t get to say “dibs!”
I waved as it went over.
oh nice
I was kinda worried there'd be a repeat of Genesis where I'd gotten out with a tripod and medium format camera to try and capture the reentry.
the og movie is pretty good, too, but not quite as terrifying
i feel a bit sorry for the NASA commentators trying to fill all that dead air with excitement when it's really not all that exciting
Why isn’t it all that exciting?
Sure it’s not a person on the moon or mars but it’s a first of its kind sample that might give us a good idea of how certain materials made it to earth
no, the concept is exciting -- trying to get "real-time" excited about watching a 5-minute parachute drop is something else 😏 -- although the last 2 minutes or so when the chopper camera got it was pretty neat
Oh yeah, that makes sense
Ooohhh. I'm always a book first if I can. But will track down the movie too
yep, book first
Yeah, like, I found contamination control fascinating and would have loved to get more details there, LOL.
I find the idea of the movie Evolution to be very fascinating
I should watch it if for no other reason than I generally like Reitman more than Crichton.
But yah I kinda came and went to the livestream but I felt like there were a lot of pieces to the story I found most fascinating that they skipped over. Like how Bennu was totally different from what they'd predicted and therefore they had way more samples than they'd expected to collect, so much so that they had to change the stowing procedures.
Or the fact the mission almost failed entirely
I guess not being a "real" space nerd and not living in the US means that I get to learn about all the cool space stuff after the fact :P
Hey
Uhm...
Can I ask questions about MicroPython here?
The Discord server of MicroPython is like a graveyard...
No one is alive...
Sure, #help-with-projects would be a good place to start 🙂
How many amps can a feather put out
@tight copper from the regulator, or from individual GPIO pins? it varies by board, see the product pages and learn guides for the specific board
Ah, I am trying to figure out if I can use a feather to run a 5v 1 Amp peltier element
nope
Ya that's what I was afraid of
most of the 3.3v regulars on board are 500-700 milliamps
Dang
you be using battery or USB then
battery typ. 3.7-4.2v
USB may be limited to 500mA, and that's for the board too
I am making a phone cooler so I need to figure how how to charge a battery and have a battery beefy enough to power the element and fan
Ah, not good
best to check specifics for the board
Ok, thank you
Heh, I'm making a phone cooler too. I'm currently contemplating a 3S lithium pack to power it, with separate buck converters for the Peltier cooler and to charge the phone.
Oh right, a fan output too, but I can probably run a 12V fan directly from the battery pack.
Can I get a link to the 3s?
3S just refers to 3 cells in series. There are lots of 3S battery packs out there from the usual R/C vendors. Here's one source https://www.buddyrc.com/collections/3s-11-1v-1
Dang that's too big for me
Can you undervolt a peltier element?
Underamp?
Idk
They're just less powerful at lower voltage
I'll have to test it and see
I am sick of my screen getting hot during gameplay
Thx!
Oh dear. USPS ground is usually the most efficient way of getting stuff from Adafruit. But it seems like the post office messed up this time. The package got to within 20 miles of my house, then decided to go on a tour of the southeastern states. 😆
Heh, I know that Hyattsville one, my mail goes through it a lot
you think it's messed up today, just wait a couple of weeks 🙁
i've got one at "shipping label created" state, so 🤞
Edibles
Desk of Ladyada - Stories about Screens & SAMD51 & Generic 24-series I2C EEPROM https://youtu.be/680tykO-PCs
Worked on restocking SAMD51 boards, notably Hallowing/M4SK. Tested the 2.4" TFT FeatherWing revision and bugfixed ESP8266's watchdog issue. Updated Qualia boards with Arduino code examples & improved CircuitPython support. Adafruit Playground introduced for ad-free note sharing. Upcoming focus: Raspberry Pi HAT displays, which use on-board EEPRO...
Out of curiosity, what site would be the best to view all kind of SBC computers that there is?
Is there a single site or list where I could have a look of them, like Pis, Orange Pis, NanoPis, Beaglebones, etc.
Sort of
https://hackerboards.com/
Their database is somewhat old
But better than nothing
With over 450 active entries, Board-DB is the largest online database and comparison tool for single board computers (SBCs), computing modules (SoMs), and development boards.
Sweet, just what the type I was looking for! Thanks! 
Though, I might be looking for something that does not exist: One with power and RJ45 on other edge and USB connector on the opposite edge (though with minor power, like Pi Zero)
I can't help
But you may just use some extension cord of some kind
Yeah but it would not be small form factor and clean looking.
One option is that I take a Pi Zero and add USB+RJ45 hat.
There were some usb flat cable connector around AliExpress along with other connectors
You may use those, or solder some jumpers
Not an bad idea actually 
I wonder what kind of unholy industrial thing you are trying to do..:P
Just a basic Zigbee + 433MHz receiver dongle that is powered with PoE (either Poe on board or PoE via splitter) 
I would use generic 433MHz receiver but the issue is that the RTL433 project requires those Realtek TV dongles
Why do you want the ethernet port on a specific side?
I want it to be as small form factor and clean so that the power and RJ45 is on the same edge
makes sense
RockPi E would be pausible but man, it's nowhere to be available
Welcome to the wonderful world of sbcs!
Yep 
Looks nice, nowhere to be possible to buy
Screw it
Pi Zero with Hat it is 
Or NanoPi
And then scrap that 433MHz in it
Or I could go totally overkill and get CM4 module, or something cheap that fits to the same socket
you'd have to design a carrier board for the module, but it'd provide the ultimate flexibility
otoh, that does sound like overkill
Not necessarily
Nano Base Board (B) For Raspberry Pi Compute Module 4, Same Size As The CM4 | CM4-NANO-B
Ah btw you can rip off designs from olimex
And likely allwinners and rockchips should have reference design too
If it's an open source design and you stay within the license it isn't really ripping it off.
I just kinda need to find a cheap CM4 board style
Then again, I have combined two words that do not belong next to each other
first, you need to find a cm4
Cheap CM4
sooo
Imma go make a lottery, I have bigger chances with that than with "cheap CM4"
Something something I TOLD YOU SO
https://x.com/Dexerto/status/1706391604687151425?s=20
context?
(I guess it's drawing an unholy amount of energy for fast charging, some of which proceeds to be converted/lost to heat?)
related, ive heard of issues with the nintendo switch
it normally charges at 15v over usb-c, with the official brick
but its using a watt limit, not an input current limit
so if you feed it with a 5v usb adapter, it draws 3x as many amps
and the losses to heat, are based on amps
and with 3x as much losses, the charge controller chip cooks itself!
so, fast-charging with the wrong usb-c brick, could lead to such issues
Twitter ???
tbh my phone also can get really hot to touch when fast charging
Rip
What's wrong with it?
At first I was getting temperamental displays that would not be detected on startup, reinserting the cable after boot it did detect displays. Then next I was getting weird pixel formations flashing at different locations, then the monitors would cut out. So I took the card out and inspected there was build up of leak and oxidization so I did a clean of the areas with isopropyl alcohol and now the card does nothing with displays. Fan spins and power is there but no output.
Also during faults it was logging to the event viewer that the pointer could no longer detect the display it was connected to
I feel like if you set it on fire and it doesn't magically come back to life you should get your money back.
Kind of a left field joke because I believe that is an ASUS Phoenix.
Good 1060 card (when it works). You didn't mention where it was wet. Do see some weird corrosion in some spots.
Thanks @ebon dew yeh it's an old card now first bought in early 2017 maybe even late 2016. I'm happy to say farewell to it and yeh I think it was the Asus phoenix 3gb where I totally bought the wrong variant. Many games would have benefited from the extra few gb the other model offered for an extra £30 nevermind. It's toast now.
I don't actually care too much about a high end GPU at the moment although I'm debating with the idea of a 3060 because the hardware stack is pretty solid. The only problem is windows don't support the CPU for windows 11 but I could work with that eventually or go back to full time Linux.
I considered selling my entire setup monitors included and just rethinking my whole usage and going to a sigma or a nuc with an egpu.
That said I've been able to put a 1030 I had around so it's totally ample for what I need. If I come by a little income boost I'll probably get a 3060 and run the whole hardware for another 5 years. I rarely see bottlenecks for my usage and there's still a lot of upgrade potential with ram and storage.
So yeh panic over, no fmls and onwards
One solution to work with windows 11 would be to get an apu since my mainboard has support for TCM security. It's 1st gen Ryzen that's the issue which is so bad of Microsoft to throw it away. Great cpu. Tons of juice
I'm also happy it errored out the way it did. Made diagnosing the issue much easier.
I'll try it in another hardware stack but if it's no good it will be available for anyone who can repair
I have a 1550 4gb for my workshop PC. Does everything I need as a workstation. Capable little cards.
They certainly are. It didn't play nice with Linux for me. Always crippled performance
ah yeah I'm not running Linux. Linux forums are the best place to get recommendations on cards based on the best driver support.
I did run Linux for a while and the biggest headache was graphic and audio drivers.
I miss the 750 Ti's that were bus powered, no external power cables needed.
and 1050 Ti's were the last iteration that was bus powered I think.
Yeh as far as I could see in a couple of years using Linux daily was that Nvidia would release a driver package for the main distros which was proprietary and could not be altered. So Linux Devs could not develop on it meaning whatever Nvidia choose to release for Linux is as good as it gets.
I don't believe they make it easy to be reverse engineered as there are Linux reverse drivers for Nvidia but the proprietary ones were usually more performance
Yeh the 1030 is bus powered
Yeah last time I ran Linux as my main pretty sure I had an ATI card. 😅
drivers have likely become far more complex since then
Yeh I hear that's a better hardware choice for Linux. So I'm gonna to figure out what the next month's bring me with income (I'm at the mercy of part time work ATM) so it is what it is . I do have a raspberry pi that could be a main if I need to lol
and they weren't proprietary, you could cobble together your own if you really needed to for an unsupported card.
Maybe all I need is mainsale anyway lolol
NUC is nice for a small space but expansion compared to a regular ATX build is very minimal, highly specialized, and proprietary parts.
Welp sorry to hear about your card. Glad your back up and running again.
thanks, yeh... a little weird with 1 screen until i get a new active displayport cable but all is good
i checked out sketchup performance in browser and it's adequate
yeh nucs are cool if you really want to minimise things but i'm thinking about this pc and how the part has failed but if i buy in with an upgrade, it's a huge upgrade to modern. so working with a hardware stack of your own choice still has benefits beyond
Yeah nouveau is the open source nvidia driver. I do not believe it works with the latest cards though. The proprietary nvidia drivers aren't terrible.
AMD has open source drivers now for Linux.
Question for those who travel for work (ie service calls and what not): Do you get paid more for being on the road or do you get the same wage as you normally do?
Same wage
Although the food, the place to stay, and the gas/travel is usually refunded under a fixed rate that's on the contract
But it's italy, the european mexico, so it may depend on the location and contract
I have literally never heard someone call Italy the European Mexico 😂
- this already existed
- mine died in a month so im biased against it lololol
- pricey and hard to get
- specs aint that good compared to other brands boards (mango pi, banana pi m2 zero, orange pi zero 2, nanopi)
In my opinion, the only things that are better on the zero 2w is the community support, popularity, and that it doesnt heat up as much as the bpi m2-zero
And now the orange pi zero 2 came out, with 1G, 2G and 4G ram options, 1.5 ghz aarch64 quad core processor, with usb type c
For like $25~$30 dollerinos
I do think the community support is an important thing tho, considering that raspberry pi products are usualy aimed at beginners
And ive suffered so much trying some modules or boards with bad or little documentation and almost no community feedback or support cough cough ov7670 cough cough sipeed m0 sense
You say pricey, but they’re supposed to be half the price of an orange pi zero 2
died, or was murdered?
One of the rpi zero2w’s most defining strengths is efficiency. The reduced heat output is proof of that. You can easily get specs elsewhere, but the power efficient performance from that $15 board is tough to match.
try getting access to all the awesome gpio libs in these other boards. yes you have gpiod usually always but layers of abstraction are missing making these boards hardish to work with and the official os releases usually have huge bugs in one awkward place or anotehr
but if u have a set dev path which wont increase your dev time ridiculously (fixing bugs / solutions) then yes you get a lot of power with these boards
supposed to, but due to the shortage their price has skyrocketed
Died, i wasnt doing anything with the gpio. It was in its case. I just rebooted it and stopped working. Yes ive tried using other sd cards, yes i have tried different power supplies, yes i have tried other os images other than rpi os lite 64bit, yes ive tried to connect it to my computers usb to see if its detected. Maybe some day ill figure out how it died
Yes yes true, i almost forgot about that, the zero 2w is CRAZY power efficient compared to the banana pi, in fact that was one of my favorite aspects of the zero 2 w. But ooga booga big compooter power better /s
probed the 3.3v header with a volt meter? whats it reading?
That's a very good point, i already mentioned the documentation and support of the raspberry pi compared to other boards. It was a bit complicated getting the gpio to work on the banana pi. In fact i forgot how to do it, i think i used blinka and it worked flawlessly
Yes, did that as well, but i dont remember the reading. Ill try that later to see what i get
@patent hemlock what is bro cooking
something snarky and not necessarily helpful 😏
however, i've had one in a high dust/cat hair location for over two months and the only problem i've had is (was) keeping my MQTT client connected
I forgot to mention, I NEVER OVERCLOCK ANYTHING, its too risky
from what ive seen, overclocking only has a risk of crashing and corruption
over-volting has a risk of hw damage
you can overclock without overvolt
i only ever overclocked on a Pi 2 -- everything was "fast enough" after that
Never overvolted anything, even riskier
as far as i know, overclocking on its own has zero risk to the hardware
Yeah but it can overheat the hardware, and that worries me
the rpi firmware has thermal throttling
it will underclock itself automatically when it gets hot
Wait really? That's a nice feature
Im still not overclocking it
Risky risky
But its a good safety feature for people that want to
the firmware also throttles the clocks when low voltage is detected
though, the zero isnt able to detect low voltage
i had also done testing, and discovered, that at idle, cpu freq means nothing, in terms of waste heat production
its entirely about core voltage
but you need a higher voltage, to let the higher clock be stable
i overclocked my pi4 and the gpu fried
how did you diagnose it as a fried gpu?
the fact it would only 2d without artifacts and that pixel dekstop had artifacts whatever the output. i can't confirm as is the usual case for me but feel quite strongly about it
ah, that sounds like the 3d core is malfunctioning
the 2d core is a seperate block, and hw encode/decode is yet another block
there are multiple clusters of cpu cores in the 3d block, and it is possible to disable them
good knowledge, that's @glacial wigeon
Yes very @glacial wigeon
Finally it's almost October... And feels like july
27C T_T
Haha lol cry about it + skill issue + L /s
its spring in my country and i hate it soooooo much
Here in santiago, during summer we sometimes get 27°c ~ 35°c. And my house has very poor ventilation
Chile is getting hot AF
huh maybe that killed the zero 2w /s
you said you rebooted - was that a hard (power cycle) or soft reboot? if it was a hard reboot, the heat may have gotten to it because it requires more power in the boot cycle than it would at idle
I did a sudo reboot, im guessing thats a soft reboot
this really seems a bit strange to me, but my electronics/electrical-fu is still in the elementary stage
the bane of my hobby existence is that I do many things so infrequently that I have to re-learn most of them each time
this is why having a code snippets repo or gist is a good idea.
i have one just for flashing esp boards using esptool. infrequently yes but invaluable for making the process so much faster and easier when I left myself quick instructions to look back on.
If it wasnt for this humongous cable id have a true mini pc😔
Save them, hoard as much code and repos as possible THE MORE THE BETTER
one benefit to using adafruit displays with eyespi, you can make them really compact.
Ye an spi display would be quite compact
I remember, someone already made a rpi driver for spi displays, maybe i could tweak it to work on my bananer pi
But i need to get a spi display for that
hmm not sure if that's hdmi though. doesn't seem to an eyespi to hdmi module. not even sure if that's possible.
Wait what are we talking about?
Uhhh screen wire too big eyespi compect me use
Me want eyespi display
Aha!
Add some jazz & pizazz to your project with a color capactive touchscreen LCD. This TFT display is big (2.8" diagonal) bright (4 white-LED backlight) and colorful! 240x320 ...
This could werk
I confused the eyespi display with the spi display
measured it, 5v line werking and 3.3v line working correctly as well
but i think its shorted maybe? if i probe the 3.3v line and the gnd line and use the continuity tool in my multimeter detects it and says "611", which im guessing are milivolts, so im not sure if thats part of the power management circuitry like a diode
hmmm, maybe the power chip is dead?
you know what, im going to try to power it from the gpio
measuring the power rails in ohms mode wont give you much
it can only really be measured in volts mode
but thats what i did
i got 3.3v on the 3.3v line
then the power regulator is working fine
ok
double-check the usb thing, plug it into a computer, using the data port, and no SD card
can you post a photo of the board, both sides?
Here
@glacial wigeon
does it have something like a boot eeprom? i believe only the pi 4 has one
the zero doesnt have one
looks perfectly intact to me, no idea why it would be dead
I wonder whether the SD card reader has mechanically failed...
if it had, the SoC would still show up over usb
ok. I did not read scrollback
I thought you had to use the micro usb closest to the camera connector
that one is cleary labeled power in
it cant do data
News article: “the super continent in the future will be too hot for humans to live on”
Me: “has new anxiety for thing that will absolutely have no impact on his actual life”
Brains are great lol
You should read the new "Moonfal series" by James Rollins. Not really the same but fun...
I wonder if 38 awg wire is good for data transfer?
Over how long of a distance?
What kind of data transfer?
Basically Arduino i2c/serial, and about less than 6 inches
That should probably be fine
Ok
tube on the back of the washing machine popped off. did some laundry, went to the workshop, and came back to a flooded house.
see now, a washing machine doesn't stop filling until it's filled. so if the hose comes off it'll just keep going and going forever.
so that's been my night
the funny part is i had a plumber come today to check out plumbing and in the process moved the washing machine to see behind it just enough to loosen that hose.
and now i have what is essentially flood damage.
(idk, I found this GIF for "pangea" and thought it was pretty funny)
Being in Florida, do you even get coverage insurance wise to cover that? I know flood insurance is another federally administered program. But do you have any coverage that covers situations like this?
From what I’ve read home insurance is kind of a crapshoot in Florida right now
it’s that way in many states, but Florida being relevant to where you are
trying to get flood insurance in FL is like trying to get health insurance as a stuntman..
might get wind and rain but flood especially if you're in a plains area is near impossible you're on your own.
i never even considered flood damage from a washing machine 😦
It's impossible
I have been having the crappiest time with insurance
and coincidentally, in the oddest stroke of luck i have an inspector for home insurance coming here friday... which is why i called the plumber to fix the plumbing in the first place.
Biggest issue for everyone in Florida right now I think
and the plumbing issue is finally fixed, tree was cut down, root intrusion gone. everything works right... and now this.
what it's like walking in my house right now. have an emergency crew here with a huge wet vac doing their thing.
Welp they did a better job in 1 hour than I could have in 5. What a huge load off my shoulders. 😮💨 All the floors are dry and clean. It's kind of amazing. I'd love to give them a glowing endorsement, maybe on yelp or google reviews. What a night.
My parents have been having issues too they're in central Florida but did just get a great rebate on hurricane proof windows. They got everything replaced with 3 pane argon infused coated glass. Good for gunshots, fly debris, and what have you. If you spend $20k+ they kick back $13k
Hope the flood damage isn't too much @ebon dew
I've got a hole in shared stairs which the landlord don't repair and a hole in the false ceiling within my flat. So I was invaded by a wasps nest in the attic yesterday
Landlord is coming today today to tell me how special they are and do nothing at the same time. It's a particular skill
There's also rats in the building
I had the black pcb Bluetooth audio receiver it worked perfectly, it had a name of vhm 314, but i have damaged the board and i couldn't find the same, but in online or local shop red varient is available, but according to AliExpress red is bt 4.1 and black is bt 5.0, when i asked some sellers they said both are 5.0, all of them has jl branded chips and when i Googled about the chip i had on my black pcb it showed me image of a red pcb one, if both of them are 4.1 then should i go with mh m28 which says bt 4.2?
I'm guessing chips made by JieLi Tech https://www.zh-jieli.com/
[ With chinese, bit crushed female voice ] **欢迎 BLUETOOTH MODE .... [ beep ] BLUETOOTH CONNECTED **
Ugh, those guys are icky, they mass produce ASIC chips for cheap electronic products, with very little documentation of course
I have a wifi camera that stopped working and wanted to troubleshoot it but guess what, jieli made the main chip.
It turns out to be a good business model, but bad for consumers
True
Is there a diff/merge tool with the ability to keep notes beside the diff?
if you're talking about git, there are "tags" which you can mark a repo at a certain point in time
Nah, I'd be more interested in comparing two forks of the same codebase
(kept in unrelated VCSes)
believe it or not, i've liked P4Merge for visual stuff (https://www.perforce.com/products/helix-core-apps/merge-diff-tool-p4merge)
Learn how to track & compare branch and file-level changes. Diff tools and P4Merge helps developers and designers visualize diff code and graphic files to easily see changes.
i think it will work on "raw" file systems...
on a different note, has anyone in the US ordered from Pimoroni -- how the bleep am I supposed to know when/if my order is going to arrive? ("If you selected a method that [which we weren't going to tell you about when you select] has tracking, you will see your tracking number below" (which i obviously don't have one)
😠
I have. The tracking number was in an email starting with "A shipment from order"
it took a week to seattle
via royal mail
most of the time I order their stuff from digikey
well, a week isn't that bad, but dang! -- yeah, digi key from now on for sure
Problem is, it has a license agreement that has an audit provision (!) and requires a valid phone number for download (!!)
well that sucks
i'd just google and try, honestly
oh, wait 🤦 --- most IDE's have compare functions built in
I can also use vimdiff
Which is, you know, the old reliable
:P
I just wanted a notes function that I could save with the diff, but I guess a pane in vim will do ;)
i actually try to use the newer "stuff" because that's what the kewl kids do 😏
Using new stuff is a good idea
It keeps your brain and professional skills sharp
The web dev people heard that and cranked it up to 11 😆
🤣
In @night crescent history: 14 years ago today, Ladyada shares the Bedazzler project. “Our first open source Homeland Security non-lethal weapon project - The "THE BEDAZZLER: A Do-it-yourself Handheld LED-Incapacitator."
(And yes, my calendar is geeky like that.)
My order arrived 2 days earlier then the estimate. 🎨 🧑🎨
WE ARE LIVE! SHOW AND TELL! https://youtu.be/fIXGEP-yMYM
Mmm yes tiny compooter
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we are offering a $12 USB-C power adapter which supports a 5V, 5A (25W) operating mode. If the Raspberry Pi 5 firmware detects this supply, it increases the USB current limit to 1.6A
whaaaaaat?
PD be like moment
Wake up babe! Time to buy another $20 dollar usb power supply specifically designed for the pi 5 and nothing else /s
You say that sarcastically, I'm saying it seriously. This is the reason I never got a Pi 4. And now I won't be getting a 5.
In 2019 i ended up buying the power supply for the pi 4 because i back then i didnt have any usb type c device or a 15w usb wall adapter, if i remember correctly 2019 pi 4's had an issue with the power supply so it only worked with the official one
Yeah, but this is much worse. They very deliberately designed it to require their high power supply. Yes, you can override it, but that's beside the point.
Hmmm, im now interested in its power efficiency, 25w is quite a lot, and considering that one of the products advertised along it is a rather chunky heatsink cooler
Low.
One thing that bothers me a bit is that they changed the ports layout again, so its incompatible with previous pi 4 cases
Yaaaay!
more plastic
From what I've heard, this thing is pretty much going to need a metal case.
Like the argon neo
They're basically building a NUC at this point.
But with a decent CPU and architecture
Architecture, yes. CPU maybe not so much.
ARM >>> X86
Yes, but I feel like they're creating a "solution" in search of a problem.
The power draw is too high for an SBC, and it doesn't have the power design needed to make it a full mini PC.
Yeah, it's kind of a niche use case. I could see using it instead of a Dell Edge to do stuff like talk to PLCs
... but a Pi 3B+ should be able to do that.
Heh, that was my original pitch. Currently we're looking at some of the embeddedTS offerings, which are pretty much ideal for this use case
https://www.embeddedts.com/products if you're curious
Personally, if I'm going to run an SBC, it's pretty much always going to be headless. I would prefer more/better I/O to having display outputs.
Most of my Pi boards are wrapped up in boxes doing various things. All headless (although a few have front panels)
Yeah, but you don't need a phone GPU to render a little front panel interface.
Don't get me wrong, there are uses for a powerful GPU on an SBC, but I think they need to split the product line and have an intermediate level.
Nah, I'd like to use that for ML acceleration, but last I heard, that isn't supported
I do quite like this idea I saw on the AdaFruit learn site https://cdn-learn.adafruit.com/assets/assets/000/028/775/original/raspberry_pi_zero_iso_demo_3A_ORIG.jpg?1448520626
Like I said, in the current state RPF has created a solution in search of a problem.
Ohh, new Pi looks like fun. 😁👍
I think I'll wait until October payday, but.. yeah, very nice. 😁
With a very serious design flaw.
I'm not sure if the firmware finagling (if that's what you're referring to) is something I'd consider a "design flow" as much as intentional.
The design flaw is the fact that it even tries to draw 5A at 5V in the first place.
Ohh... Big meh.
Yeah, unless the price is nothing short of a miracle, I’m seeing myself moving away from raspberry SBC’s.
Big yikes. Where’s the PD when you need it?
Sounds like they've upped the price.
Ehhh depends on the use case, personally i like powerful sbc's but if youre going to use it on some headless iot project its completely unnecesary
I personally dont use my sbc's for iot or electronics and instead i use them as mini computers for my little linux projects
... and if I'm going to do something compute-heavy I'm not going to be using an SBC.
Well, i mean, yeah but, uh, idk
i like the idea of pushing these small computers to their limits with games and such even if its completely pointless
Ive seen sbc's on aliexpress with that purpose, sort of. They dont have video output and connect directly to a breadbord, like the milk-v duo and the licheepi zero. But considering my previous experiences with risc-v and sipeed i dont recommend them
Yeah I don't trust anything on AliExpress.
I do trust aliexpress, except those things
I avoid chinese sbc's and mcus with little documentation like the plague
I want to know who I'm actually buying something from, and have access to detailed documentation.
I got the error again
Hmm let me see
Aha
It filters nasty words
Why does it say all that instead of "oopsie you said a bad word"
Anyways, my only problem with international buying (amazon, aliexpress, etc) is the shipping fee and shipping time
Im a very lazy person, but im more impatient than lazy so if i can buy it in my city locally i just get up and walk there
Walking saves money and time 😎
But we know who is the seller, its john aliexpress of course
Sadly, it's not really ARM, it's videocore with an ARM peripheral; To the end user, it's ARM, but, from what I've understood from what @glacial wigeon has described, it's a little cursed
my primary interest in one of these things would actually be "desktop replacement/backup" -- although i already have a T440s not doing anything 😏
from what ive hard from the libcamera guys, the firmware had been massively culled
the entire VPU firmware now lives in the SPI flash chip
so there are no more blobs needed on the SD, when booting
wifi still needs them though
I think they hedged their bets and we will be seeing an quicker release of a pi 5b or 6 sooner than later. I think they'll bump the specs also. This came out of nowhere blogs have been writing for months that it wouldn't be u til 24 until a pi5 and then it just dropped
They're quite vague about power on gpio I read Tom's hardware and I think he said just drop 5v on the 5v pins and u r good to go.
But they do have a power management chip I suppose that all feeds into this 5v 5a thing, and when power off it still draws 1.5watts or something but with software u can disable a lot lowering it's sleep state to 0.5watts
"This came out of nowhere"
somebody posted a youtube video a day before it came out, with leaked specs
Yeh but for the months immediately before the word was we would have to wait. Maybe I missed the memo but it's really surprised me
And available basically in a few days time
It seemed like they were focussing on still shipping pi4 for the rest of the year at least
"have you tried turning it off and back on again?"
actually just a quick re-install might do the trick -- had to do that on linux a couple of days ago
Or clear cache and stuff
Good idea, old reliable "turn it off and on again"
The thing is, they are using PD and it is correctly using it, it just the 5A on 5V isn't what most PD power supply will support (Even if the power HW can supports it).
One step at a time! leave the Videocores behind!
Pi 5 supports the higher voltages of PD? I don’t count usb 3 current negotiation on 5v only as PD compatible.
The thing is, high voltage != USB PD
Still is out of spec.
That is what typical implmentation will be
And actually getting 5V at the pi is going to be tough without feedback.
and at 5a, your going to have far greater losses
one weird thing i noticed, is that the new PD PSU, has support for higher voltages
So let me use one example, for any thing >3A, you need a cable with emark that stated it can handles it.
This is USB PD
It is an incredibly poor design decision. I was disappointed with the power design on the Pi 4. This is just stupid.
Here is the spec: https://www.usb.org/document-library/usb-power-delivery
higher Amp != higher loss, your DC-DC operating/load point is the key
The emark is literally just a little chip that says "hey, I can handle more power". It does not ensure 5V will be delivered to the endpoint. And that's a serious issue for the Pi.
i'm just increasing my air flow
Uhh... yeah it is. P = I²R. With R being the resistance of the cable, that means the power dissipated in the cable is directly proportional to the square of the current.
I'll show you where the spec states about those power profiles
It does not matter on the DC-DC compoents itself, as the heat is on the cable not the board
but there is voltage drop due to producing that heat
Also, have you tried any 5A USB-C power? like a notebook? You can see it is just fine
if the PSU produces 5v, and you loose 1v into cable heating, then the pi only gets 4v
Notebooks using that 20V 5A for quite some time now, I never seen the voltage drop 1V
notebooks solve that, by accepting a higher voltage, so 1v of loss is a smaller percentage
and having a DC-DC to buck/boost it to the required voltages
As far as DC-DC conversion is concerned, the Pi doesn't really have that on the 5V rail. It just has a few support/protection components such as a fuse. The trouble is that 5V is an extremely tight margin for the dropout of their 3.3V regulator.
The thing is, it never reaches 1V or anything closer, get a USB-C power gauge with resistance measurement you will see how much it can handle
the key thing they are missing, is the ability to regulate the 5v on the board
1v is just an example number, it can fail with less drop
And that 20V is immediately taken and converted to whatever other voltages they need through a bunch of DC-DC converters running in parallel. There's an entire power distribution network designed to deliver power everywhere it is needed. The CPU has additional converters in very close proximity, and the CPU+chipset are capable of directly controlling those converters in order to handle upcoming power spikes.
The Pi has none of that. The least we can ask for is onboard regulation for the 5V rail.
Regardless, the pi-vs-laptop comparison proves the point. The reason they use 20V in the first place is because going lower introduces too much loss due to the currents.
If you ask me, the 12V common in desktop systems and for powering GPUs is also too low. They should have gone to 24V a decade ago. Server boards have been running on 24 and 48V for years now.
The point is - you can see how much voltage drop it is on the cable with those 20V 5A power, it is not that bad with a proper cable
yeah, ive had wildly different results, depending on what cable i use
This is why USB certify the cables
but how do you know if a cable is properly certified?
No it does not, the 20V is for battery charging, and other system uses the battery rail
To be clear, it's entirely possible to deliver 5V at 5A even through a very long cable. But, and this is a big but, you need to have additional sense lines to measure the voltage at the load. This feature is pretty much only available on higher end benchtop supplies and USB-PD doesn't support feedback.
Please see a example of how notebooks power arch works
If that's the case why can you still power most laptops with the battery removed? They do both.
You will be surprised that framework have to specifically callout they support no battery boot.
Buy it from a reliable source?
See that 17.6V rail? That's what they are converting the 20V input to. It's an intermediate voltage, which is what I expect in an architecture like that. At 5V the pi doesn't have enough headroom to implement that intermediate stage.
No amount of certification can overcome the reality of physics.
That is your battery voltage rail
i.e it is a floating voltage depending on your battery voltage
Specifically, this is not the case at all
The ISL9241 includes the buck/boost converter to get that voltage.
https://www.renesas.com/us/en/document/sds/isl9241-short-form-datasheet?r=507701
because it is a battery charger?
And it can do so without the battery.
I just linked the summary datasheet for it. It's a buck-boost converter with battery charging capabilities.
again, I quote:
"that 20V is immediately taken and converted to whatever other voltages they need through a bunch of DC-DC converters running in parallel."
Is not the case, they pump it in to the charger to battery voltage, and you system uses that battery rail for those systems DC-DC
It is like saying a TP4057 used as a LDO, sure, but it is not it is designed to
Ok, that part was incorrect. But it doesn't undermine my point.
The concept itself is wrong, because notebooks are arch with the battery power first
Modern notebooks have high transient power load requirements
... which is why they use the high voltage rail and regulate closer to the load
you might not able to get the power you need all by the charger
I'm talking about even the wattage is not enough, if your source is 65W, and your transient is 100W, high voltage won't help
That is why framework has to call out they supports boot without battery
Notebooks rely on battery to pump those crazy high current because Intel ask them to.
In that case I hope they at least have some large capacitor banks.
Also, having formerly worked at Intel, I will be the first to say not to use them as an example for good design.
large capacitor banks won't do because that causes more problems, how are you going to change the CPU voltage fast enough then?
That's where the throttling comes in, and it is supposed to be managed by the PCH (chipset).
At least this is what the notebook industry lands on
Also nope, it is not fast enough
Also, PL3 is taking the battery rail as advantage, previously they have to throttling lower power
... and that is not a risk I would have taken if I were designing it.
pre-ordered Pi 5 from pihut!
That's what you need when 10nm can't release on time
@glad ruin another victim
Also me, but from sparkfun, though I'm still waiting for Adafruit to order another one
And that mentality is one of the reasons I left Intel.
wait you worked on intel? cool
Only if pi can design their own CPU silicon
techincally RP1 is the one step leaving broadcom
and have a "de-Broadcomed" Pi 6
15 millon R&D isn't that bad
with open source bootloader and firmware
it was not a good experience. Can't really go into details here.
ah well
When buying for router I tends to avoid Broadcom garbage as much as possible
because Broadcom = no open source driver = landwaste
same, I want openwrt
