#đ§âkeyboard_modding
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morning landee
do i grab 65 ufo switches for $62 
i do already plan on getting some ur ice ultras and a holy60 clone..
Owlab ti 40g or 50g? Will be using with the default oem keycaps and mainly for gaming
personal preference
If you donât know then go for 50g
Pretty risky since 40g is real light
You sound like a special use case though

that sounds like a good price
how
Generally average person doesnât realise 60g is average mechanical switch
So they see 40 and 50 and worry that 50g is too heavy
when 50g is already quite light
oh
i thought âits only a little lighter than the tikkens so ill be fineâ

taobao
their black friday sale was pretty good
good morning snore
Waiting for the day when HE switch prices will drop down until near MX switch prices đ
how much u save
i didnât buy it
but i think it was 60 something for a 65 pack
welcome to my time zone
you should be sleepy by now
did some shrimp fishing today
nice nice, did you eat nice fish
idk their english name but yes 
anyone heard of koi HE switches 
Singapore ?
yeah
I know about them
what would you compare them to
nah, indoor small shrimp farm in china 
tbh the koi switches are cheap so
ill buy a whole set of kois and ur ice ultras over a single set of ufo switches
and still have enough left over for a budget/cheap switch
why u want koi
is just recolour
and with nice box and perfume sprayed inside
recolor of what
its cheap and idk what its similar to
forgot if it's duhuk or ice
isnt it different than ur ice? because ice is all clear
and im not sure what duhuk sounds like as i dont have them
u can change materials and colours..
then maybe is duhuk
I had a sound test before
the holy60 clone im getting is from kkdoo sakura60, idk if you have seen it before
just send
I'm on taobao like quite often
theres options for it being anodized so its better than gaterons clone of it
i havent really used tb a lot personally
heres the koi specs
i think it is duhuk recolor
different spring
I'll check in abit
reading breakfast
i dont have owlab tis or the original duhuks..
i can try looking for herz on tb
okay
the recolors are slightly cheaper than the duhuks
dmdmdm
my wooting 2he is making this unplesant ping sounds when i press down a key
any ideas how to fix
i think it's the plate or something that's causing the issue
do you use an agent to order or do you live in china ?
im currently in china
sad that tao doesnt ship to europe
on vacation to visit family
i wanna do some mods to my 60he the old one, but dont know what to go with
i really hate the wobble of the keys and they sound trash
might be because i got keycaps from shein but everything else is stock and its just underwhelming
feels great to play with tho
switches are the most important when determining wobble
ive seen a ton of people recommend geon raw
max stability atm should be the geon raptor v2s and the gravastar ufo switches but both have their cons
geon raws are quite old now
still dont know since theres so many to chose from and everyone has their own opinion
i want them to feel good, be stable and also sound good
i know thats a lot to want
đ
my current favorite are the ws flux deep clacky and mmd c1
though i will get ur ice ultras and those koi switches i sent
wont try them till i get home around ~jan 25th
u need forwarder
ufo I guess
fits that
flip kom and taishan gt pink
jade delta is nice too
i order fake clothes basically for a living bro i know how it works dw
Ice extreme / ultra are nice too
fake clothes?
I care alot about sound and feel so I wrote these, they have great stability too
raptor v2 feels and sounds so meh
but it's very stable
those agents or what you call them forwarders are most commonly used to ship fake clothes and shoes from chinese markets like taobao and weidian yes
I don't think it's fake stuff unless u know what to buy
i just told you i buy fake clothes all the time bro i know what im talking about
obviously taobao has its own side of non counterfeit items and original brands
yes that is what I said
but theres a whole scene of fake designer items to it
not everyone knows
check out r/fashionreps or r/qualityreps
millions of people buy fake clothes and taobao/weidian is the primary/only source
Interesting
btw did u see the switch reca
im not into keyboards at all
i got a refurbished wooting 60he a month ago
oh okay, those are my recs if u wanna check em out
ok ill check them out
Did anyone else have a really hard time pulling a switch out? Iâm using the switch puller that came with the keyboard, and yes, Iâm using the correct side of the keycap/switch puller (checked multiple times). I still canât get a switch out, and Iâm hesitant to use more force because I donât want to damage the switch or the board
try wriggling
actually take a video on how u do it
I been using gateron puller and it's been great
I tried others too
but not tx one or the new 3 in 1
i tried to wiggle quite a lot as well, but that stubborn switch wont budge
Included plastic puller is bad. Best to disassemble the keyboard and push the switches from the plate
or get a good metal puller
Wuque and TX are great pullers
Srsly though even with a good puller you may have to push them up from the bottom as well - those tikkens are tight AF and hard to pull
Itâs not just you!
Btw, you might have an answer for this.
Iâve also seen mentions of grounding / static electricity when using metal cases (e.g. Tofu60 Redux), if the board is mounted with a friction fit, is it still recommended to use a screw for grounding (like the top right tray mount screw)? Quite new to modding/custom keyboards, so I don't know too much yet
Yes, to prevent ESD issues, it's recommended to ground the module by screwing in the screw on the top-right. The chances of this happening are very low, but if it does happen and damages the PCB, the warranty won't cover it.
Ohh I see. Is it just this one? Is there a video from Wooting to demonstrate this, as I want to be on the safe side.
can u show how u take it out
yeah they are nice
Yes, that is a correct location to install the screw. Video about it is coming soon as far as I know.
Perfect, thank you Shafie! :)
me ?
yeah but it's fine
There's like a hook to pull out the board
I just need to remove a keycap and access one of those holes, then use the hook to gently pull it up
yeah for the v2
What would be one of the most effective sound dampening mods I could apply to my 60HE V2?
foam
alot of it
I have bottom case foam... where else can i put foam lol
In your spacebar
On top of the pcb though that has some drawbacks with switch performance
what about tape on the back of the PCB
Donât think it really dampens but it costs $1 and 5m of time, canât hurt to try tape mod
i saw this video https://youtube.com/shorts/Fszcvm32rLw?si=viE4Q2vvtYKagZMm
it seems to make it somewhat more muted
tape mod is not rly a necessary thing
it's for flex plate and flex pcb
if you look at the before and after of a lot of tape mods, the sound profiles seem to be noticeably different
It definitely has an effect on other PCBs
yeah it does affect but small chance u might damage ur pcb if u rip the tape off
You will not damage your pcb removing painters tape from it
3 layer tape is fine
it does muffle the sound abit
if u like a natural sound then don't tape
Painter's tape is intentionally used because its adhesive is gentle and weak
(and non-conductive)
yeah
i think i like the muffled sound, gonna get painters tape from amazon the blue one cos blue is cool
ngl once i've assembled this keyboard its probably never gonna be coming apart again so i doubt ill be removing any tape once it's on haha
If you ever do it should all come away as one piece that you can just reattach when you're done working on it
idk the 60HE v2 is friction fit so i guess that makes the process of taking it apart easier
for cleaning etc
my existing wooting 60he oh boy you don't wanna know what's beneath the keycaps on that board
could be something living in there for all i know
joking i clean it sometimes...
friction fit is nice
Pics, exorcise the demon
i got the ur ice ultra 70 pcs for 26 euro
hopefully i made a good choice for my 60he
now i need good quality keycaps cause the ones i got from shein feel like sheit
Afternoon Guys,
Anyone have a list of compatible cases with the 60HE v2 module?
@glacial wind Figured out the difference youtube was like downplaying the quality of the video whenever I was watching shorts on youtube for some reason and thats why the audio all sounded the same I dont know why that was happening but that was the reason
#đŞâmodding_faq theres a link that leads to a site and you will see it from there
And that does happen sometimes in youtube when you are watching a video and the quality goes down the sound usually tanks with it
Hey could somone help me i have had my keyboard for 4 days and my spacebar isnt even and sound really weird
Make sure the keycap is pushed in all the way?
If thats not it then you're stabilizers might not be screwed in properly to the PCB
if its not pushed in normally that its good but if its pushed in then its not even and sounds weird
@gaunt quartz Sounds like stabs arent installed correctly? Did you get the product like that or did you screw in the stabs yourself? And what keyboard are you talking about the 60 he v2?
i did get it like that and i have 60he+
it's good switches
try removing and putting the keycap back
I already tried and it didnt help
Gn
so i got the switches from the switchy spacebar heist that are "ridiculously heavy" and i was wondering if i could buy some that were like those
You can get the normal Tikken and also the fitting springs and recreate them yourself: https://wooting.io/product/lekker-spring-packs?Weight=Linear100
i didnt know i could do that
thx
higher number is heavier right?
nvm im reading the description
you just need to open the switch with a switch opener and you replace the stock spring
got it
Yep, the heist switches use 100's. I really like wootings switch opener kit because it comes with a nice metal switch puller as well
im not trying to use the stock keycaps for the 60 he v2 where should i get the split spacebar keycaps?
Most full keyboard sets have sizes that fit the split space bare
It is 1.25 cu 2.25 cu and 2.75 cu
I was watching this video on YouTube and see that this person had options to select which switches he uses. But i'm not seeing that setting on my end. Would anyone know why that would be?
will the feeling be any different
it's in the beta only. You can try it out in #đ°âwootility_updates to see how to install beta
got the ags hmx switches in
honestly they sound just like crystal, with very tiny difference from the astro/raptor v2, but it's so small
what they look like?
i wonder what duhuk used in their fiber infused bottom because the duhuk fiberglass ones have a large difference in bottom
whereas these are so minor
they're the orange ones everyones getting
oh the ones made by squashY?
ah
Squashy are likely similar though because theyâre hmx too
oh interesting
what's the material listing on these
AGS is a Thailand keyboard shop iirc
Theyâre like crystal he with hmx fiberglass bottom
got it
But the sound is like crystal he where I barely see a change in sound
mk mk
I do wonder what duhuk used because their fiber bottom had such a drastic change
especially on that damn bottom out
i am still waiting on a switch with such bottom out like the duhuk
Would you happen to know what the benefits of even having the Switch Selecter would be? Does it just help with the travel distance or something?
the baseline starting accuracy is improved 10x basically
because before switch selector it would take time to adjust and finetune the auto calibration
now it starts at that 10x better baseline for the newer switches
What is the starting accuracy? Like right when the key actuates? So maybe like more subtle key presses can be registered more accurately?
basically your keyboard has a rough idea of the magnetic flux of each key press
50 mins im ded
before switch selector it used the standard lekker v1 data
after switch selector it has better data to run off for tikkens etc which are 10x more precise than old lekker v1 data
so auto calibration has to do less work to get it precise
I get that part, but like what exactly is benefited from that? Does it improve accuracy of key presses or something? Sorry if I'm misunderstanding. Just trying to understand it in more depth
yes, think of lekker v1 data as say 0.1 error margin in movement accuracy for example
I see, so it's basically just calibration settings, it doesn't really do anything except understand your key presses more accurately I suppose
and switch selector data as 0.02 error margin
Ahhhh I see
it allows the keyboard to give less leeway for error and be more precise right away
There are certainly times where I would press a key very slightly and don't always get it to actutate 100% but this is like super random from my end. Could be due to odd calibration
Maybe this can make it a little more reliable
once switch selector is finalized we'll also allow lower deadzones, which will mean certain switches will drop to no/almost no deadzone
Nice, that's awesome, ok cool. Appreciate you explaining that to me. It helps paint a better picture in my head
I just swapped out my regular Jades to Jade Pro's so maybe this will help calibrate the switches better
What's up @fluid ravine !
an interesting side note is we're realising how you measure or the tools used to measure really change up results in testing too. Like for example on our method of checking accuracy we have it accurate up to 0.02 now iirc, yet some reviewers test different and say it's not accurate
Yo yo yoooo, got some new Jade Pro's for Christmas so I'm just enjoying those đ
so there's a disconnect in how some tools are used somewhere because on our end we're finding it accurate to 0.02
oh naiceee
i am still waiting for a switch release in my interest
horses are the ones i'm excited to try personally
nothings catching my eye quite yet...
Gotcha, I know Wooting's been known for their reliability and their impressive software so I am glad to see Wooting continues to release great switches and improve their Beta version of Software as well
clip clap clop sound

i'm just so curious to see how ttc's first round stem feels
Didn't you mention you wanted one of those KOM switches? Maybe I'm forgetting at this point, it's certainly been a while
im curious about that piece of plastic that is printed into grids
and how it influences the sound of the switch
yeah they've been experimenting a lot with all kinds of interesting internal things it seems
KOM?
was really never interested into KOMS at all tbh
wasn't really fond of the switch
even with its stability factor
Hey sno where's the sound test data base again
Yeah maybe it was @stray tiger who mentioned it. I'd have to dig around prior chats to find that
thanks
They have some stability issues?
nah stability is good
that's what they were known for
but sound wise it wasn't really for me anyways
Ah gotcha
I'll never forget I ordered and installed the Jade Max switches and they had horrendous QC issues, they switch would flat out get stuck during a key press. It's like way too tight of a tolerance
oh yea xd
Understandable

Anyone know if the Jade Max has gotten improvements since their inital release? It was so bad
what the hellll hahahaa
I like them for the fully clear housing but the QC issues were just insane, I don't even know how they got to production and were sold to people
i'd be damn if it was still being sold
Annnd they are https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DGQ58W5T?th=1
oh đ
72$ without coupon
mmmmmmmmm hell no
Super expensive, you'd think they'd be top notch too
I am planning on getting a V2 module and gifting my sister the V1 module I have
wait that's nice
ty
I don't think the 8k would make too big of a difference or at all but I like that upgrades typically include better stabs or maybe better lube on the stabs. Looking forward to that and plus my sister gets a Wooting, that's a W
you thinking of og spacebar or split?
Ayyy, that's the keyboard case I'm using, pretty cool how it's their front page picture
haha forgot you have the salvation
Honestly great question, I think I would go for the original spacebar but I'm not opposed to the split version. It's a genius design. I just like the traditional layout, more keycap compatibility
ic
Yesss, still running the White Salvation. Love this case
who wouldn't haha
Do you have the split variant for your V2?
its a great case
yup i indeed do
Yeah it is. Super clean
just wanted something different
Any regrets on the split spacebar so far? Or nothing off or weird about it?
Did it take some getting used to?
i didn't find the point of getting og spacebar cus well i already have my venom in 7u spacebar and my mx has a 7u layout as well
so i might as well try it out on my second HE board
Yeah I feel it
im going to be honest
i've only used my wooting v2 like 4 times, i haven't been to interested cus of my current build. It feels very lacky cus of its parts but ill work on it later
anyways about the split, it's interesting... def need to get use to it, when i game i thought i would use the left bar alone but apparently im like going in between the middle and left so i might have to like adjust to it
oh for sure
Might sound silly, but I prefer the traditional spacebar aesthetic a bit more. Not like it makes that big of a difference or anything. i'd have to think about which one I end up going for. But so far leaning towards the traditional spacebar
ima bet you're not the only one on this
Yeah I can totally see that being an interest feel. Like most our lives we type on these traditional styled keyboards and then to switch to a slightly different spacebar layout, that's got to be something that would feel odd at first
Yeah maybe you're right. It's also why I like 60%'s. I might even pick a 60% over a 65% layout just mainly because it's a little more compact but I like the aesthetic of it better
yeah that one little change you can for sure notice
it's like me going form 6.25u to 7u, same thing, it takes a slight adjustment but you will get over it pretty quickly.
I think the biggest and smallest noticeable change is Split backspace
instead of a big key on the back right corner, it's 2 extra keys and i use the \ | key as my actual backspace
and in the end i find some benefits out of it
@fluid ravine astral church
heheheheh
are they poggers???
Oh, happen to know if the Module also received the V2 Wooting upgrade or is it just the Wooting V2 which is sold as an entire keyboard?
hmx better
astrals are hmx tho? xd
mb
i forgot they made an astral switch in the fisrt palce
sigh
they sold out so i couldnt buy it
but i dont think they would be that different from my rawhuks
I've tried a 7u spacebar like wayyyy back but I didn't really notice too much of a difference, I just didn't like how it made the keys next to fn a different size from what I remember
maybe just a bit tighter on tolerances
oh yeah the alt keys are like symmetrical
on both sides of the spacebar
then you have to use the split shift
maybe
can someone make a 3hr reaction video to it
i appreciate the effort but yeah some editing does need to be done there
it's the struggle i think for most tech enthusiasts who want to do youtube, in that they love the tech side, but don't love the editing/youtube side - so it becomes the sticking point
but that applies to all categories really. Lots of people who want to do youtube with ideas, topics etc but if you don't love the youtubing/editing side of youtube then it's always going to be hard
Anyone know why Wooting removed the Gateron Jades from their website? Is it like a temporary thing?
its still there for me
This is what I'm seeing
Tip: The magnetic switch is designed for magnetic keyboards(Hall effect keyboards), not for mechanical keyboards.⢠Initial Force: 30¹7gf ⢠Total Travel: 3.5¹0.2mm ⢠Initial magnetic flux: 120¹15Gs⢠Bottom-out magnetic flux: 700¹80Gs ⢠Pre Travel: Freely setting ⢠Pre-Lubed: Yes ⢠Typ...
Yeah since it was on their previously. I don't see it anymore though
Yeah it does looks like both sizes are unavailable right now
Ah, might just be out of stock but yeah the post still exists
ok it appears i might need to
lube my switches
i can hear this unplesant pinging sound in my owlabs
u in america?
if so they probably ran out in us and isnt restocking?
Yes
cos its overpriced and not that good
Amazon still carries them though
wooting
I imagine at some point it doesn't make sense for Wooting to stock them when everybody on here tells people not to buy them
hey guys, I fucked up my backspace stabilisers on the 60v2 - which one should I get to replace?
it's sold out in some regions and isn't being restocked
People say not to purchase Jades?
they're just old and not great value compared to newer switches
Have you tried other switches that you preferred more?
Do you think Wootings Lekkars are better than the Jades?
they're before jade max, jade pro, etc
Jade Proâs have heavier springs though. Iâd personally choose original jades over the proâs
wobble wise yeah i'd rather lekker v2 than old jade
Jade Max has horrible QC issues. I donât even know how it went into production and sold to customers
I gotcha. I have the Lekkar V1âs but I hear good things about the V2âs
well now i'd just get tikkens
Specifically the wobble
but there's probably 30-50 other switches i'd buy before the old jades
there's kind of no reason for us to restock them
especially when tikkens are like $20 or whatever with module
Have you by chance tried the Jade Max? I love the idea of them. I just had a horrible experience with them
yeah, it's my job to try switches
Oh I see, do you work directly for Wooting or just a reviewer?
i work for wooting as their modding content creator
What are you absolute favorite switches tried so far? Still being the Tikkens?
if he says anything besides tikkens, im reporting him internally
Thatâs awesome haha!
use the switch database
No need for FAQ, just curious on your own personal opinion
Wooting Lekkers on top
those are my personal opinion, i made that
Oh jk, itâs your own personalized list
Raeds on top
was just about to say that
Yeah youâre totally right. I thought it was a generic FAQ page. Thank you, will review shortly
it needs a slight update though in that i'd move the stability switches around a bit for some newer stuff now that switch selector is out
so the actual database is more up to date than the image
i'm waiting for new ttc to arrive before i update image though
When you tried Jade Max did you experience any switches getting stuck mid key press? Iâm curious if they fixed it since I love the all clear housings they have
there's jade air which replaced it though, they just changed the stem
Oooo
so it's not jade max anymore but a different switch
MMD C1s are a great cheap alternative that aren't sticky
yeah i'd rather mmd c1 than any of the jade max/jade air stuff if i wanted good rgb
or phylina thunderflash pro
Nice, I wouldâve never known if you didnât mention it. Did you like those switches by chance?
Itâs not listed in your list
they're fine, but not the best
So maybe it wasnât too good
it's just dated by not being as well/tightly made by todays standards
switch world moves fast and if you use molds from 1-2 years ago it doesn't compete
I typically will avoid colored housing switches. Theyâd need to be REALLY good for me to test it out
I donât like how they mess with lighting personally
no rgb> 
have a look at mmd c1 honestly
they're fully clear and light press which seem to be your 2 requirements
I see. I respect the knowledge youâve gained over trying so many switches. Itâs been while since Iâve tested around some of them
Yeah
I typically enjoy a 55g spring weight similar to the original jades, preferably clear housing, clack over thock and reduced travel switches around 3.5mm. I donât really like full 4mm switches
oh you don't want light press?
Oh, I also canât stand stem wobble. I know jades are the best but jade pros have been a solid upgrade
well you don't have to worry about picking up any thocky switches 
55g spring is a bit trickier to find as not many do 55g these days
I own L45s V1, theyâre a smidge too light for my liking. They cause accidental keypresses. They need to be a smidge heavier
most are doing 40-50g somewhere, so 55g is a bit tricky to find
But yeah, I donât think you could go wrong with lighter springs
50g would be fine I think. 45g is too light for me
True, wooting isnât really known for Thocky sounds
try phylina thunderflash white
those are very stable, fully white/clear so no rgb messing, and 50g bottom with around 3.3-3.5mm bottom out
Oh, @glacial wind happen to know if Wooting sells springs? Iâd need to search around but for example, I own Jade Pros, pretty happy with them so far, but Iâd just spring swap them all if I needed to. Not my preference haha but if thereâs a way to make me like them more, Iâm down for it
we do sell springs, it's a bit expensive shipping just springs though
Ah! Perfect, thanks for your help. Itâs not often I come across someone whoâs tested a wide range of Hall effect switches
there's a soundtest of it on the switch database too
I gotcha. Iâll likely be placing an order on the V2 module (I donât think itâs out yet) but when I do, Iâll include springs and likely some switches too. Just cause tikkens get discounted during module/Wooting orders, Iâll likely put it in my order as well and down the line I might try out those Phylina Thunderflash white switches youâve mentioned
yeah it's worth trying tikkens if you're buying a module at same time because it's so cheap
Yeah thatâs what Iâm thinking too
generally true for all HE switches
Yeah exactly
with some outliers like raeds 
i think my haimu raed clone arrive today/tomorrow actually
curious to see if it's just like the xvx/tecsee ones
When Iâm checking spring weights for switches like the L45s (I know itâs in the name), the spec lists something like â30â45 cNâ. Is cN the spring force measurement I should be looking at?
Also, I canât find the actual spring weights for Jade Pro switches, if I were to guess, Iâd assume theyâre around 60g or higher?
there's starting force and ending force which are different, so just look for whether numbers say start or end/bottom
usually bottom is listed more often than top
the switch database i linked you to earlier also has bottom out weights listed for the switches that publicly list it
This is what Iâm getting. No way theyâre 50g springs
don't listen to ai, it doesn't know stuff and is wrong 50% of the time
start/end force and length of spring can also change how it feels for you
jade pro are 50g bottom out but they are long springs so it may feel different to you than 50g 15mm spring
Initial Force: 36Âą5gf
Total Travel: 3.5Âą0.1mm
Tip: The magnetic switch is designed for magnetic keyboards(Hall effect keyboards), not for mechanical keyboards. Initial Force: 36Âą5gf Total Travel: 3.5Âą0.1mm Initial Magnetic Flux: 120Âą8GS (PCB1.2mm) Bottom-out Magnetic Flux: 700Âą30GS (PCB1.2mm) Spring: Customized Spring Pre-Travel: Freely setting Pre-Lubed: Yes ...
Yeah these jades feel like a 60 gram switch to me
Theyâre very heavy. I think similar to L60s
@glacial wind if I purchased Linear45 springs and popped them into Jade Proâs, do you think theyâd feel heavier than my V1 L45âs?
The reason I say this is because L45s have a 4mm travel while the Jade Pros are like 3.5mm
You think it would compress the spring more, making it feel like itâs actually heavier?
Not sure how much spring swaps youâve attempted
it's hard for me to say how you experience springs
you'd just have to try it out and see how you like it
All good, Iâm just trying to get a rough feel for it since spring swaps are pretty time consuming
can anyone tell me from experience if the new lekker tikken switches r good
Iâve done it before but on mechanical switches way back
they're a solid all rounder switch yes
thanks
I think what Iâll end up doing is just purchasing L45 V2âs rather than purchasing 45g springs.
For 5$ more I get switches and I can just gut the springs from them. I think in terms of value it makes more sense
Oh but you get a quantity of 135 springs. That does change things
Why Lekker V2? There are many switches with light springs that are much more stable than Lekker V2s and Jades.
Well for Christmas I was gifted Jade Proâs, but I think their spring is a bit heavy for my liking
I might be placing an order on the V2 Module (if itâs even out) and when I do, I was going to get that module, along with some Tikkens since I get a discount buying them this way
I was also considering to just purchase some L45 springs and spring swap the Jade Proâs I got for Christmas
Otherwise yeah, theres other switches Iâd choose over the L45âs, theyâre just the cheapest option
Anyone know if the 60HE+ Modules offer 8k polling rate? Or is that not out yet?
I didnât see any mention of 8k polling on the module listed on Wootingâs official site
Has there been any updates or mentions of the Module receiving the 8k polling rate as well?
non v2 module?
cant its a hardware thing
60HE v2 module is 8k polling
I guess it would be considered a Module V2 if it released
You can preorder it now
Right but this isnât listed on Wootings website yet? Or maybe I missed it?
I donât want the entire keyboard, I just need the PCB
It's on the product page
Ohhh, itâs not listed as a module until you click on the Wooting 60HE V2
its under 60he v2
Under modules they only list the old variant
Thatâs why I didnât see it before. Iâd assume theyâd eventually phase out the old module
Thanks for confirming đ
im ngl, i miss ur old pfp
With keytok nova đĽ
I was actually little surprised with this one
Where can you Import one?
Superbuy? Or any other proxy service
These are good switches; the sound tests on Bilibili were poor quality. I saw a YouTube video and I think they're pretty good.
They should do a version fully enclosed
That would be interesting vs the open split they have now which is polar pro but new material
Yw! đ
Theyâve been praised very highly on Twitter, if thatâs anything to go by. đ
what the...the gt60 ultra only added double LEDs
đ
Marketing sharks 
Is it possible to mod the split spacebar on the 60HE v2 so that it is just two keys vs 3? Not sure this would be possible without 3D printing a custom keycap.
2 key as in how?
Just middle key gone?
Yes
You might be able to just remove keycap/switch in the middle and 3d print a cover
That's a good idea, might be easier to 3D print that vs a key with exact dimensions/measurements for the extra "+" it would need if I kept the switch in
maybe less stable but might work just fine
only issue is I do not have a 3D printer
I mean, a simple tape to cover the switch hole and a putty to fill the spot might work too
perhaps
@chilly mural u reckon that one of the longer keycaps in this set would fit i think the "+" will be missaligned
if i removed the switch from the middle key like you suggested
the left spacebar for example if i put a longer keycap from this set above, i dont think the "+" would be aligned but im no expert to how these keycaps are crafted
It wont fit, it needs to be slightly off center and add up to 6.25u to make it cover the middle key
hot glue both caps together
@fallen pecan you know if wuque's ocean whisper is fully pa12 or just the housing while stem stayed as other material?
Iirc Jade ultra is spark but with pom stem
gt60ultra, not the jade ultra
Oh my bad
ty
@sacred elm flux dethroned
I regret not buying the cherry love keycaps

that is one nice horse
diff spring length
it's much nicer than spark
dunno if pom stem is doing allat
Eh I donât know about much nicer
Itâs 3mm spring difference and stem material changed but otherwise itâs same thing
If anything the nice thing is itâs priced reasonably now
I am never getting my switch order if UniUni keeps this up 
which layout you going with?
first of all I'll try stock konfig(7u), then idk:)
split 7u!!
I don't have any 3u Keycaps for now :(
split 6.25u, whole shift on both, iso enter, split backspace
actually what I want to do but with split 7u if I get the board myself
is this normal? P is lower than O
have fun building brother!
seems like O is higher, P a bit lower, then Ă even lower
I think youâre pressing them on too gently haha
both
top for switch, bottom for caps
Its labeled lol
Getting the ENTER key to stay in place is difficult. Its very wobbly and way too easy to remove. It feels like the bottom switch is attaching perfectly but the top one is kinda bending when attaching? So it doesnt enter correctly
Not sure, but it feels wrong and sounds different (way louder then the other keys)
They are moving around a lot when attempting to attach it, maybe thats why? ill keep trying đ
Keys only ever use one switch. Larger keys use stabilizers, not additional switches... I wonder if you're trying to put an ISO enter key on an ANSI layout keyboard
Ah i just dont know anything, its a green switch and 2 white ones, which are probably the stabilizers
The white ones are moving around quitre a lot though, which i suppose they should to stabilize? đ
I suggest to make a post in #1019755933959733258 and include pictures
that was a weird video to make but yeah
it was easier to make it wobble with my finger but my fat finger is blocking all the view đ
the stabilizers, yeah. theyâre supposed to move freely
oh alright, ill keep trying. Because when i remove the enter key, it loosen from the top like nothing, and gets stuck on the lower stabilazer.
I think it doesnt correctly gets atached? no idea
but it feels loose when clicking on enter
press the keycap on with a bit more force
see if that helps
not sure if itâs seated properly
more so than the shift key below enter?
Went full gamer rage on it and it feels like its properly attached now đ It still sounds louder and more clicky, but it doesnt un-attach when spam clicking it anymore
yeah, all keys with stabilizers sound a bit different from keys without
ohh right, that makes sense then đ
Eeeh, first impressions are kinda meh
Plate mount stabs suck, GMK tiramisu looks sucks on cream leggera, mods sounds like shit(stabs problem first of all), FR4 plate sucks
now let's try fix this
Are the new lekker tikken any good or should I just replace them with my own he switches
what u got
I mean if u come to this chat, ure likely to meet Tikken diehards
you haven't really told us what you're using yet
so we don't know what you're even comparing them to
will the keyboard change at all if I took the pcb out
if you're buying a v2 it kind of is a no brainer to pick up tikkens unless you have a specific other switch type you prefer though, since it's absurdly cheap to buy tikkens with a module/in the pre-built
what do you mean by take it out though
js take it iut
like play with no case?
i took it out to make sure everything's fine
no put it back in but
me taking it out does it make it any different from when I first got it
oh it's you again. If you ask more troll questions i'm going to time you out
bro i js have bad ocd
you already asked this earlier and i told you the answer
it's the same question. I told you taking it out doesn't affect it
stop repeating the same question
in ur opinion do u think the stock switches are good
he doesn't own a wooting
you haven't told us what you're looking for in a switch or anything else about what you like, so we don't know how to answer you
ye
I don't have wooting, but I have tikkens
when I first tried I didn't like em. but I haven't used them in awhile cos I'm on vacation
I can try them tomorrow when I get home
Stock Atlas, DCF switches
probably thocky with minimal stem wobble
thocky doesn't exist so that's kind of out
ok then a deeper sound profile one
tikkens are deeper than most switches
not all but it's on a muted deeper end
stem wobble wise they're about average
better than old lekker v2 but not as tight as say UFO (but ufo have a bit too tight feeling for some)
if you're unsure just get the tikkens and you can pick up something else later
flip kom
is quite muted and low pitch
good snappy feeling, good lube?, spring is good but I'm not that schizo on springs
it's also like $60 more though
how much is tikken
like $20 with v2 or less in pre-built
v2 lekker so meh
it's dirt cheap when you buy a v2
@tawdry tree
not lekker
oh u meant the board
i mean with v2 60he
i also wouldn't really recommend flip kom until we have an idea of ttc whole range of switches
just because they have so much stuff coming out right in next small period that it's best to see the whole range before committing to their high end priced stuff where you're paying $70-120 for switches
unless you're the type to buy tons of switches constantly that is
it would suck if you buy flip kom and find out new horses are nicer for example
that is true
there's always smth new coming out
gambling is bad
ttc and gateron both have the whole new range announced already, so means it's real soon
ttc silent is close too
and horses i assume we'll see more tests and info on them within next couple weeks
how else will i get my wuwa waifus 
yeah
I also saw one of the unreleased switch in the office
so should i just wait for the newest switches to come out
they have a bunch of stuff coming, but we probably shouldn't be talking about unreleased stuff
it's up to u
there's always new shit coming out
are you buying a v2?
ya
then just get tikkens
the other switches coming out will always come out and you can try them out later when they come out
and they're all also 3-4x the price of tikkens
so it's generally a good idea to just get tikkens as your stock switch, then you can swap them later if you don't like them or find something else
with the deal*
damn I missed out getting my switches in a different order then
well yeah course he's buying a v2, so no need to specify
it's for whoever else is reading
btw does the Tikken not have an option to ship from china
ok then ill probably just get the tikkens and then switch if i find one i really like
no. tariffs are a thing and wooting doesn't cheat on taxes
thanks
but I'm in Singapore
shipping from Europe is deadly
đ
we have a hk warehouse too, but it only stocks some things
yeah our pricing isn't really designed for shipping small items
it's all priced assuming you buy a keyboard
if you want to be a scumbag then sure
im a scumbag đ
go for it, but that's also why good refund deals die and you end up with chinese brands who have shitty warranties
the switches just don't feel or sound good and 80 dollars just sucks
also you're paying for return shipping
die
it's over
đ
Europe shipping is so expensive
it's impressive to both be trying to abuse a really nice return policy and complain about paying for return shipping at the same time
chill bro
you realise most brands aren't amazon, and if you actually want to work in the hobby it's pretty scumbag to be trying to abuse return policies
ure misunderstanding but okay
not really much to misunderstand if you use switches for awhile, then try to return them later used with no actual fault
is there any switch currently that is smoother than tikkens? by smooth i mean least scratchy, the least amount of friction on off centre presses, etc
basically a switch where you just feel the resistance of the spring and that's it (to the degree that is physically possible at the moment ofc)
maybe the 035 maglev stuff? but those still use a spring and sidewalls so probably not actually
disregard sound or wobble, btw
I think u need more lube
smoothness i doubt it, because there's not much that can be done beyond that smoothness wise
i think he's asking a hypothetical
not as in he's saying his switches are scratchy lol
maybe material wise if you maybe make tikkens with some hyper self lubricated material? But costs would be crazy probably to use a real self lubricated materials (pom isn't, as least not the pom normally used)
ye mostly hypothetical, i've lubed tikkens, they're pretty good and smooth, arguably more smooth than with the stock lube job
but got curious does it get actually any better? as in is there any upgrades to look forward to or is this kinda it for now
nah i don't think there's anything really there for smoothness besides self lubing like you said to spread the lube better than machine lube
ptfe switches when
i remember switching from lekkers v2 to geon raws and they seemed to be smoother to me, but tikkens seem to be on par if not even better
an interesting fact is there were options for more stable versions of wootings chosen switch, but they were passed on because friction was possible if we went too stable
so stability vs smoothness is always a bit of a concern with minimising wobble
i saw them ball bearing switches, but thought they'd just eventually developer grooves from dissimilar materials rubbing together and immediately thought about ptfe lined switches lol
i did discuss some things with product team recently, just for testing out stuff with switch development. so maybe we'll get to see some different lekkers in the future
switch stuff takes forever though, so who knows what the final versions of whatever wootings next switch will look like down the line
one trend i noticed is a lot of people are moving away from the large fully enclosed walled ttc stems
because they just don't sound or feel as good even when stable due to feeling the walls hitting the sides
the big square block seems to be getting less popular
I did see HMX using a POM + PTFE blend in one of their newer switches
I thought teflon switches were already a thing?

NVM I was thinking nylon
i remember people used to use ptfe and fluoro wax in ski/snowboard racing and you would glide like crazy for one run then have to re-do it again lol
but man you would be fast for that one run
Yeah teflon slippery as heck and tastes great on cereal (hot or cold!)
For ultra smooth switches there was the Keygeek Cera, I think they used ceramic powder to achieve that smoothness
Yummy PFAS!
That's kinda how it is for me, people always talk about wobble this wobble that, but I just want a switch that is as frictionless as possible lol
It really sticks with you!
i really really hope ttc horse is actually good
Is that a split switch? Haven't been keeping up
nah it's normal switch except it has random weird parts inside it to improve sound dampening
split stem i actually don't mind fully enclosed ones, but i dislike that all of them are 3.2mm
3.2mm feels a bit too short travel where i have to adjust more
I caved and ordered UFOs. Surprisingly ships from the US and getting them tmrw
it's why i'm curious about ttc's other unreleased switch too
their full split stem 3.5mm one
wooting 4mm split stem when
Qian switches 
Jeez 3.2mm
I dislike sound of the non enclosed split stems
Soon we'll just have surface mount switches, 0.2mm travel
They all have that weird mushy sound
Have any HE switch companies tried to experiment beyond the usual materials (PC, POM, Nylon, POK, LY)
probably extremely expensive
even pa12 requires some experimentation because the sizing changes when cooling iirc
Yeah sadly
Crunch
I really miss your old elk pfp. Only PFP I enjoyed around here đ
Or was it a reindeer?
Crunch aesthetics
The one that was licking the screen?
Yeah
Crunch
PEI, PBT, UPE, UMWHPE, Melamine Formaldehyde (the non toxic one) and LCP are all interesting materials
There so expensive tho
Yup, ended up being $1.18/switch đĽ˛
I think because of the echo and phone mic it sounds more like regular fluxies than DCFs to me đ
how do you like it?
and is this still with the LED PCB on?
I donât like FR4
Iâd try alu w/o LED PCB
see how much of an improvement that is
Like, you need to be mega careful with led pcb while using oringđ˘
road to raw alu 1 step at a time đ
is this just caused by the LED PCB or the main PCB too?
RAKKA had some difficulty with the dimensions of the gummy cutouts
It feels like it would make sense to use only pcbnap/keysnap, although the PCB itself just doesnât fully fit. I donât think I could simply grind off a piece of the pcb
you can sand/file FR4 and there arenât any traces there, but still
It depends on how you insert the PCB: either all the top ones line up perfectly and the bottom ones donât, or the other way around
interesting
Tight as hell
Iâve seen so many atlas used in the legg, thereâs no way ppl didnât notice
Indeed
it might be more noticeable on the painted/cream legg
or maybe geon changed to a bigger bit size to save on the machining cost for the legg đ
yk, if you have fairly rough sandpaper, you could mark all the corners that need sanding and sand them a bit. when I sanded the venomâs db, it went pretty fast
do it outside tho, if you do it
Yeah iâll try
Iâll get a legg for mine eventually (when red isnât out of stock 24/7)
In any case, I should probably order PCBSnaps as well
I shouldâve mentioned you could get both ur leg and PCB/KEYsnaps from tb
delta still has em in stock I lied, only KEYsnap đĽ
but they wouldnât resolve the issue
Fixed
with sandpaper?
anyone have any suggestions for custom feet/risers for 60he standard case? pref something fitted or molded instead of propping it up on a book or something. hoping to get the typing angle closer to 8 degrees so will need something that will lift 7+ mm
oh escaldi likes the v2. Nice photos from him as expected https://x.com/Escaldi/status/2005472915878203738
Would this HE v2 fit in this case?
https://kbdfans.com/collections/holy60/products/holy60-keyboard-kit?variant=42630706495627
Specs #Keyboard Case# Case: Holy60 Case Material: AluminumStructure: Tray-mountCompatibility: with most 60% PCB, including DZ60 rev3.0/DZ60 RGB-ANSI/DZ60RGB V2/GH60/Wooting 60HE PCB, etc.Weight: The case approximately 0.22 kgTyping angle: 7 degree  #PCB# 1.6 mm non-flex cut hotswap PCB with RGB underglow and per-key R
Yeah
Thanks
How do you know? I would like to understand myself how to know if its compatible
There is a list
It has been tested by Wooting. Fits nicely with the friction fit pad, but no grounding. It's recommended to install one screw on the top-right to ground the module.
Yes
How do you know its been tested? Is there a video I can watch?
@glacial wind is using Holy60+V2 module as far as I know
yep, it's already in the official compatibility tested case database
Cool thanks
did you friction mount it? ore use screws
both
both fit, it's listed on the compatibility list what mounts are compatible as well
I wonder what the polycarbonate version of this case would sound like vs aluminium
Has anyone tried or looked at the gateron jade delta switches how are they
Theyâre in our sound test database already
Theyâre solid. Nothing crazy but they match up to rest of other typical gateron walled switches
@tawdry tree not gonna lie but LED PCB is actually making sound way better
more deaper
But another issue came up. The screws that secure the so-called adapter sit slightly higher than the rest of the PCB, which causes uneven flex at the top of the board(the left side is noticeably stiffer)
Or Iâm tripping, I donât know whatâs going wrong
is there a wooting keycaps list
what do you mean keycap list?
like the lists you have for cases and switches is there one for keycaps
Key caps depends on what you like
Most keycaps fit the switches
Cause the switches are Hall effect so some are not compatible etc
No, since there would be hundreds if not thousands
Wooting is compatible with most MX-style keycaps
Same goes for case
ok
i threw cerakeys onto my wooting 2he
it sounds ungodly nice now
they're so DEEP
i'm baffled at how nice it sounds
Ok, now looks like I fixed ts
ayy, you got BAKKA finally?
Whats the deal? some big issue with PCB?
I need pcbsnaps ASAP
thats some tool to help place it or?
With case generaly, but that's mainly also PCB's fault
i see
Alternative mounting instead of O-ring
idk how it works, i never really took the wooting apart either, so can't tell how they fit together or differ
thereâs foam between both PCBs as well. probably has a similar effect to the adhesive foam (for the back of the PCB) many OEMs use now
Anyways I'm getting the PCBsnaps for sure
was it the screws? or the wires, cause those stick out at a 90° angle đ
Screws fault, and yeah all I said before is complete bullshit
this one could be unfixeble
did you mean that the screws stick out to a point where they hit the case itself?
bottom out in the case more like*
Yes, I even swaped the stock screws for my own with ultra flat heads
the effect was minimal
stock ones are as flat as can be already right?
IIRC, they used macbook screws for everything lmao
I canât show it properly but thereâs noticeable inconsistency between the sides
yeah itâs clear
legg is not optimally compatible
which oring did you get?
a stiffer one would probably âsolveâ it, more like equalizing it but w/e
does the legg include foam pieces for on the gummy posts?
no
Iâm thinking if you put something small on those posts, itâd raise the PCB a little and solve it
lol
Unc don't get leggera
I have keysnaps and pcbsnaps on the way as well
so should be good
but I kinda doubt how well theyâll work with the LED PCB on
considering the thickness
and looking at ts, it almost looks like the PCB is thicker than the keysnaps đ

Today I honestly don't know what else to try
my last hope is PCBsnaps, otherwise I've just scratched the leggera lol
Either stiffer oring/pcbsnap or raising the whole pcb a little (not sure how much room you have in the legg before youâll be able to see under the keycaps).
Only solutions I think

Gn
Gn
I just received my v2 module and alumaze case!! Iâm a little intimidated on where to start. I read somewhere that I need to place screw to ground it for the friction fit. Is there a video I can follow?
whats the tikken weight
The new tikken switches, medium I think
im retrying it now
Check wooting YouTube there should be a guide
I see the guide for friction fit but Iâm just a little lost on how to ground it on the alumaze
Nvm
Disregard what i said i forgot
Yeah u do need to ground it it just says to screw like one screw one standoff
I also read online that it could possibly be grounded with an additional sponge/faraday foam piece added in the case near the ucb allowing for full friction fit but idk what to do lol
If I do that do I add in all the standoffs but then only screw into the top right one?
U just need to screw 1 standoff
in terms of installation, you dont need to do much here
Friction fit the module into the case can be quite simple and i wouldnt worry much about grounding it as well. But if you want to ground just install the friction fit as shown in the youtube video and screw in a screw into the standoff that is located near the usb port
I mean wouldnât any standoff location work maybe except like middle cause the gasket but towards the sides
I read the top right is the only standoff that works with the friction fit layer in
Also why in your opinion would you not worry about grounding it
Because imo, I think itâs kind of stupid to use friction fit and then have to put in a screw tbh
normally when friction fitting you dont use screws at all, another mounting system that friction fitting relates to is gummy mounting. If you screw in a screw in any other point of the board especially like the one on the bottom right, it will off center the USB port slightly and cause a misalignment
I'd say usually it'd be best to not use a screw for these types of mounts and use the mount as is
but if you are that worried about grounding the pcb into the case then you may do as you please
alu or pc plate with ceramic keycaps? (alu case)
that's exactly how i feel
Not that Iâm necessarily worried, itâs just on wootings website it says the alumaze case needs a grounding screw for friction fit
Ahh i see i was just curious why yeah ik frictions it usually dont use screws
You should remove both standoffs and either use a screw or use conductive foam or metal sponge to ground somewhere arouns the usb port.
I think its cause wooting aluminum case prob touches the module at some part while the alumaze case doesnât requiring grounding
Well the new aluminum case and the optimum case have a little sponge piece near the usb port that grounds them
The alumaze doesnât
Wooting's v2 case with its v2 pcb doesn't make any contact with the pcb at all really
they have silicone knubs that are placed on each post grooves to avoid contact with the case
and with their lil sponge thing, well its just there for grounding
But on some Reddit threads I read said I could possibly buy material like that sponge and add it to the case
you can
What do yall think about that?
Yeah u can do that
I would think small chance of electrical charge damaging anything
yeah i mean that is the point of the sponge thing, its to avoid those small chances but i also doubt it would even happen
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