#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 820 of 1
They be thinking rgb sells
it can, but idk if kaleidoscopic cloud light sells😂
Never underestimate how much special words sells
true
the ENIG plate was important
Looks like it does, peep the plate
the ENIG on the plate is entirely useless
$90 vs $140 for the 60v2
aluminum plate pog
Awful software
why did gateron take the gt60 name 
waiting for the 60he v2 to become available so i can get a cf plate somewhere
frfr.
Typical gateron, ruining a good thing by trying to barge their way in
Very nice, i'm happy to see that
bro im actually so pissed
i went through all that effort last night to install these stabilizers
just for it to be fucked
does anyone know what part i fucked up at for the keys not to press down all the way
when pressing any of the keys with stabilizers, it can only go to around 2.8-2.9 unles i put hard pressure
what switches are you using
you'll probably need to provide people more photos close up of the install for them to see what you maybe did wrong
what my brother said could be the cause, is when I was installing the stabilizers, i pulled the stem all the way up and had the stabilizer wire underneath it before twisting it and clicking it in to the house, and that the stem could be too high up and cant go down all the way
i have no idea if thats true or not though he was just guessing
well he could be right, but we can't tell without some sort of video or photo close up of your stabilisers
it could be that, it could be improperly seated, could be not screwed in correctly, could be a lot of random things
we need some sort of visual to be able to tell
Double check stabilizers, you probably didn't install them properly.
Guide how to install screw-in stabilizers on Wooting, timestamped https://youtu.be/QBwhRDOVgJk?t=232
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Does this help at all
They do look too high
🥹 another 5 years for me
you have clear stabs so checking if the wire is inserted correctly should be easy
but yeah i would say it looks too high
You probably put the wire in the wrong hole, have a closer look
I see what my brother was talking about, but the video said click it in the highest point
cause there was like 3 holes
Is it supposed to go inside the physical stem, or on the outside of it
Because I went underneath the stem and then clicked it in
the wire needs to go inside the stem
Inside the stem, there’s kind of two boxes to insert it into, you probably put it into the wrong one
Ik what you mean I didn't put it in either box is what I'm saying
I think I see where I went wrong
Cause I just went underneath the strm
stem*
Then sounds like it’s time to take it apart and redo it
I recommend the new kdrama dynamite kiss for background viewing while you do this
A typical story of a chaebol Korean son who falls for the poor worker
if you pull up, the stem needs to pull the wire with it so it rotates a little and forces the other stem up as well
(this diagram is not exact, i just drew this real quick with no reference except for what i remember)
i got mine one day early
I just called him, yes you are
which would have been nice cause i originally had to be somewhere today
but i felt sick so i didnt go :(
Bro how did you draw this 😭😭
paint
by drawing it
no but like it's actually good


Yeah I definitely see where I fucked up now
I remember seeing that little like upward pattern but I just lifted the stem all the way up and clipped it there
😭
Fuck me bro that took me like four hours

i installed some new stabs yesterday
took me like 40 minutes
and thats only cause i was an idiot and used the wrong lube for the first stab
so i had to go and clean it all up first
idk how long it took me to do stabs for the first time

having clear ones tho def helps

thats why knights stabs are the goat
i dont think i would have figured it out otherwise
the goat 🗣️
as a red and black enjoyer, they do score high on aesthetics, but not on function 
goes fucking hard
not in funcion? it's a switch and it works fine
you know exactly what I mean
no i dont as i havent experienced switch crunch
therefore it doesn’t exist?
Same , I am on 2 sets of raptor v2s now, no spring crunch for me either. First set I had since launch too. S-tier stability, S-tier price.
what kind of website got nice cases and keycaps? this is my first wooting soo pls help:)
sort by your region
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
Do we know if the new module will fit into previous cases like the Tofu Redux? 🤔
Ope disregard. Looks like it will.
@robust siren @little glen I fixed it 😭😭
It sounds so good
Idk if it sounds how it's supposed to but it's ten times better than my old stabilizers so I'm happy

W
time to split
I'm confused, your product box is a split module but your keyboard is not
Or is that your previous 60HE?
i have a 60he+
Ooh
those keycaps look nice
its actually a MAD60
dont let the soju keycaps fool you
oh i didnt know the stickers were random
A little birdie told me that it's possible to pull a hyper-rare sticker... 
also like wow this packaging is 
Wotafack
I need those stickers immediately
i have these

lets try out these 100g titons
Not one of these right
You'd know it if you saw it
these are my gamescom stickers
they are great for a fidget toy on your desk
put a spare keycap on and now you can press it if you want
friction fit pad removed

wait i cant even use it on my old one cause it fills the empty area with split spacebar
maybe entirely foam would be better than having it hybrid
i just left the foam on the alphas and left the rest foamless
okay
stabs need a bit of work
but theyre not horrid
okay my right shift is just doomed
anyone know a trick to removing HE switches without breaking the little clamps? i took apart the entire keyboard, like wooting suggests, and i still busted like 10 switches out of the 60. i wobble them and everything. they just stick inside the housing, i dont get it
build shall continue later
What switches are you using? 😮
Also gamers, I need suggestions for not super expensive key caps. I wanna do a more chill build with the new module.
case is the meteorite gray from tofu
geon raws, but it even happens with the new lekker tikkens
try pushing them out from underneath
okay
final exams?
lunch
oh lmao
anodized is more durable, everyone does ecoating a bit differently, but it will never be as durable as anodized
VERY RARE PULL
Also best pull
Okay I have to look now
Two post cards? wuuut
Note him down so you can ignore his first
first time typing on the v2
❤️
ill do a proper sound test later but...
i like this default rgb effect
Oh that makes more sense
But I see now his that may have been taken as that I got two postcard in one pack. I did not.
Okay, you‘re allowed your two favors again 
You know what has always surprised me about the postcards? Nobody has ever submitted a postcard request for two new postcards
my right shifts are always cursed
If I send in both postcards saying "80HE Split Module"
fr, Default RGB is big W. Also updating firmware and seeing the lights go from red to green as it progresses is AMAZING
Easiest infinite money glitch ever
@tropic urchin
luckily right shift is irrelevant key
fr
i think the other keeys are actually fine
Geometrically increasing postcards would be funny.
I just want 80HE Split
maybe it sounded off because i inititally tested with titons
just did this
yeah its amazing
it is? 
packing is phenominal for the module 
Maybe i should do that and ask for a different postcard and try to finish a collection that way
I already have wooting one, 80he and 60he v2 so i‘m not that far
My friend has a two and a 60he+ so if i can steal his i only need one i think
Time to steal
Maybe now that Mark spoiled a hyper-rare sticker I should use one of my postcards to request that 
i also now have 3 different colored switch+keycap pullers from wooting now
ok guys i got these two „foam“ types to choose from
which one should i use?
(the white with black in the middle or all black.
white one is prebuilt
man the white plate makes rgb pop so much on top of having white keycaps now
use the silicone and foam one for the owlabs case
ok
indeed
what does the only foam one do?
The silicone and foam is for friction fit. The all foam one is if you want to use the oring mount with the ow60.
Idk if the v2 is compatible with the oring mount though
Yes that will wrap around if you use the all foam
Different type of mouting options that can have different effects on sound and type feel
Looks like you have the split. Website says it is NOT compatible with the oring mount. So you have to use the silicone/foam friction fit
ok and then i cant use the grey rubberband?
Correct
also, why cant i just screw the pcb on top now like i it was with the silikone. the all foam does seem to have all the holes for the screws…
what makes it only oring mount?
It says you have to use the cf plate that came with the ow60 to use the oring mount. Idk someone with an ow60 might have more info
It should already be lubbed
Hey Guys
I'd like to add more weight to my keyboard case. Do you have any good suggestions?
attach a dumbell below the keyboard
in seriousness, if you're using plastic case consider getting a metal/denser case. Maybe cerakeys to make the keycap heavy, and add in weight inside.
I have a aluminium case weighing about 300 grams. Good idea with cerakeys
Copper
Brass etc
Nice! You guys know where i can get plates that fit the 60he v2?
Any reccomendations?
As heavy as possible
(Im all new to this, so trying not to order something wrong)
maybe wait on the plate first, the platefile for 60hev2 hasn't been released first. You should try searching what's the densest metal and looking for a case with GH60 compatibility with that material.
I’m not sure actually because of standoff under backspace
I would say yes, rather then no
ty - ill just return it if it dosent fit. But ty for inputs guys!
Scooped, Bars, or Mixed?
3
6
2
Bars
-> #🐸│memes
Nooooo No no NOOOo. It's da best key to replace R-ctrl on my 80he.
wtf i just saw this poll and i would have 100% voted scooped
scooped on top fr fr
I just can't tell scooped from regular well enough quickly enough
Aesthetically they're arguably better
Caps Lock -> Control is the way
yeah to be fair i orient myself on the keyboard using the edges of it, not the f and j
but i also suck at typing soooo
Bars ftw!
If you're in the US and want to sell your bonus pack of the pre-order heavy switches DM me.
More bars in more places
@glossy pagoda have you typed on the GMK MTNU profile yet?
The what now
Sure haven't
They feel amazing but I refuse to buy because of how they look. Not to say they look bad, but they look different and my brain says that's bad lol
Scooped lovers dream
I opted out of the split for my boards. Keycap struggles primarily
I am however actively working to get that blank 1.25u included in future GMK sets
Fighting the good fight 
is there switches similar to akko starfish? that was my old switches which I had the best feeling of. it had a double spring in the switches
You can definitely snag some two stage springs for whatever HE switches you have. Just make sure they are ok for magnetic switches - https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqJQQP7
played a few games on cs and val
might just be placebo but im doing hella good today

time for some pics
i just need to find a way for someone to stock spacebar kits for common gmk colorways
Ideally designers will add it to spacebar kits. The way Wooting did split is a little different than mainstream splits so that blank 1.25u isn't typically added. I have however spoken to 3 major GMK designers though and got some agreements to add them in future kits.
appreciate you for linking this! :)
so clean
i use a thumb-drive style dac/amp called the moondrop dawn pro 2
ohh interesting, i think i've heard about it before
I'm delaying the purchase of a new case for so long lmao
honestly mostly cause i still dont know what color scheme i wanna go for
And i dont want to think about that right now
I put the case order aside aswell, seems like a good call for now.
Wonderful seeing the legit split 😌
its been great, i use it on 100% volume and windows at 7 and still feel like im on the edge of going deaf 
gotta promote the post 
Go with silver or gray and you can go with any color scheme you want. Black or white also work
Clear is also easy to work with if you like PC or acrylic cases
Wish white wasnt e-coated
what case
gt-80
I think the silver GT80 case can work better than the white bc the white GT80 is like a very pearlescent/milky veneer color, you could make the silver variant work as well if not better since you wont be worrying if the whites dont perfectly match
@tropic urchin
tbf it would depend on keycaps anyway
LOL 
silver will go fine for a white build, then if you want to deviate to another keycap build potentially, you can as well
expanding collection of keycap pullers from wooting
with silver you have flexibility
you need a space king
@robust siren i looked at some keycaps, i aint paying $160 when my keyboard was $282 😭
i gotta total up my v2 build
but my 60he+ was 661
goodness gracious
inb4 someone else tries to roast you for it 
its so hard to see the difference between white and silver in the kbdfans photos
Update: the silicone diffuser installation method has been revised
compatible with WOOTING 80HE
Key feature: Ball-catch structure.
Page link: https://kbdfans.com/products/gt-80-case
i agree
You think? when i was checking what GT-80 to get i thought the white and silver are very distinct
Silver irl is shiny/white gold depending on how much light you have, but its a slightly more toned down with dim light
@slow storm
well i do see a tiny difference but id need to see more photos
almost 600 
do you know what the side metal badge is
The white GT80 is like looking at someone wearing veneers, its almost unnaturally white
cause i have no idea
its where the strap goes
the badge is the cheese grater
a replacement piece
thats what i thought
oh wait
thats front
that too
You see I feel so much better about my build not pricing it out because then i dont know how much i've spent
ignorance is bliss
s o j u
oh the side one is just an added extra
Honestly when you spend that money over several months, the total really don't matter much.
You are making more money (optimally)
true true


it gives you a distinct feel which helps with picking up off your table @rotund perch
and is decorative
like i went from PCR -> ZINC -> HOly80.. so that shit alone is already
I like decoration!
and thats just cases not even switches or keycaps
its subtle but nice
big fan of the GT80 case as a whole
I hated the center port but honestly idc
Switches alone were almost the price of the keyboard for me lol, but there were several months between the two, don't matter cause thats also several new paychecks
aesthetic is just too nice with light saber bar
true and switches you can always re-use
besides the few that are bound to be destroyed when i take them out
I think i had a 1/10 success rate at safely removing my owlabs when i got my DCF
but still, no regret
okay, can confirm, the 100g tikkens didnt have a weird tactile bump like the normal tikkens did for me
i love how the post card envelope was made 
its so satisfying to open... also a lot easier than what people made it seem like 
100g tikkens are too light for me
Gonna put tikken on the atlas 
Very nice, meanwhile i still can't find a way to source the PCB
They should restock soon! I got mine from rabbit - they can do international
I don't know what that is
Rabbit0 its a Japan peripheral store
They have their own site to navigate and order from normally?
You have to reach out to them via email or X if you want the Rakka Atlas if you cant check out from their site
Buyee works perhaps?
You can use reshipper too
Although those will need a product link
but if you have to ask in email, i guess that woN't work
I spy with my little eye a Tamron
👀
Bro im actually going to crash out with customs holding them
Fr?
they are inspecting still
Gn
and it can take several days in a time like before christmas, cause they probably have tons of packages
i've just never seen both import customs inspecetion and then HELD by customs
If you had to pay taxes upfront when ordered, this should be fine without any further fees. (granted they filled the docs properly and declared)
If not, then if they decided to inspect (now evidently yes), i guess it will get taxxed.
Fair, I dont even mind paying the taxes but since it's not DHL or UPS there's like no info on the state / what i should expect
i've literally never heard of this carrier 4PX
Was there no tax collection on the order? i could have sworn there is on Cerakey checkout
I have, 4PX is quite allright
okok thats reassuring
just hope it starts moving soon or i get more info on what i owe in terms of taxes
Quite normal for right before christmas, my last package took 7 days to ship, i dread to think how long till it actually gets to me from China now (probably only after new years)
I thought ordering in november would be safe but honestly now im worried it wont arrive before christmas
ehh all i can do is wait though and pray
Depends, early early november is usually safe, mid to late november not so much, cause all the sales ramp up.
Basically the whole of november nowadays is Black November, meaning sales starting and going every week at different webshops.
I had my TaoBao/SuperBuy order sent on 11th, and arrived in 21 days (December 2nd), wasn't too bad.
hey guys is there big difference between rakka atlas and venom 60HE ?
Wrong discord. This is a Wooting one
ok sorry for asking a question in a keyboard modding channel where mutliple pcbs get discussed
fair enough haha 
You may have better luck going to the Geon discord and asking if the Wooting is better than the Rakka Atlas
also i only have experience w wooting, not with venom or rakka
a little bit with keychron's first hall effect board Q1 HE, not bad but horrible to mod
yeah i have a venom 60 he but i was just wondering cause i saw the rakka atlas in here a few times, and last time in my memory when i asked here something in the channel people where actually cool and helped me
It's not that we aren't cool, but coming into the Wooting discord to ask for analysis between two products of which neither are Wooting products won't get you near as much information as if you went to the discord of the companies who make those products.
At the end the conclusion should be: buy 60he v2
yeah the thing is just i know lots of people here in the discord do lots of research and i am more familair with the people in this discord cause i know u guys are nice and i have chatted here before
u gonna buy it ?
cause i remember u had a frog leggera and a salvation if i remember correctly also a 80he
@high sphinx u should buy the v2
If you look at his profile, he also has the role that v2 founders got
aha
yeah looks nice man i see u stayed in the keyboard hobby
It‘s fun
Tho i did have a moment earlier today where i almost crashed out at a guy that kept asking how to do the simplest stuff and wouldnt think one step himself
Took like an hour to explain how to separate a pcb and a plate
damn hey but you got it done so congrats to u man for having the patience
Nah i think he gave up at the end
oh rip
It's usually the person you trying to help that gives up before you do.
In my experience.
Quite disappointing most of the time, you only feel like you wasted time and energy for no goal.
I mean how hard is it when you have a video to reference in their YT
It all started cause he installed every single switch backwards
tuff
oh and then they wanna pop em back out huh ?
Then he couldnt pull them so we said to take off plate and push them out from below
ChatGPT said to install them this direction and it's never wrong
Then he couldnt get the module out (didnt pull hard enough)
That also took like half an hour cause it wasnt clear if he was using some tray mount or not (he wasnt)
How's the split been in game? You tried putting some ancillary binds on the middle/right?
Then he started posting some old wooting video on plate swapping from steel to pc plate asking if he can do this
We all say you dont need to swap plate
He goes "no i want to use the foam plate"
Then turns out he just wanted to know if you can take off the plate to remove the switches
After that he goes to try and take the module apart and fails cause the friction fit pad has silicone on the edges
Then there was like an hour long back and forth on whether he really unscrewed everything on the back and how you can just take it apart and the silicone doesnt change that
Very productive use of my time all around
he tried
It's okay, some people you can only help as much as they let you, some not at all.
Been there many times.
go watch laobaozi video too but take it with grain of salt
Ty man i will 😀
youtu.be/LQ6si23VSak here
I gonna keep stay on the venom 60he for longer i think i will see how to develops and if deltakey is gonna stock them maybe i gonna get a pcb then
should i screw in standoffs for an alumaze case or does friction fit work fine?
Up to you if you want to ground it for extra safety or not
i mean how common of an occurrence is it to zap my pcb
if its common enough i might aswell
I’ve never heard of it ever happening nor it breaking a pcb. That said if it does happen it’s not covered under warranty if the case isn’t grounded
thank you 🫡
is the same thing bro but rakka 60 atlas got rgb
but rakka more expensive.if me i will prefer venom
the UFO's feel so good
I’m curious to see what the overall feedback for ufos are
I’m still not sure if it’s good or bad feel wise
I'm a huge fan so far
I think it’s going to be very split opinions
I need to redo my stabs but here is my sound test with the ufos
Anyone who hates friction will hate the ufos
But those who min max stability will love them
agreed
It reminds me a bit of the old raptor x lekker frankenswitch
Where it’s that touch too tight maybe for the stem
So you have this feeling of tightness during the press
yeah they're definitely tight
holy those do sound nice
hey i just bought the wooting 60he v2 module what mods do you guys use/ reccamend
Most mods are already done stock. It’s mostly just relube stabs if you find any rattling, pick some keycaps/case if you want to change those
what case would u choose?
that's personal preference. My favourite right now is the optimum one though because it's just clean
is that the 60v2 case?
is the 60he and the 60he v2 modding the same?
wdym yung blud
like are the compatibility list the same
yes they use the same gh60 pcb size layout for case compatibility
Specs Case: Anodized Aluminum, E-coating Aluminum, Brass or Acrylic Weight bar: Brass, surface sandblasted process Structure: Tray-mount Compatible with most 60% PCB, including DZ60 rev3.0/DZ60 RGB-ANSI/DZ60RGB V2/GH60/Wooting 60HE PCB, etc. As seen in our video in the photo gallery! Weight: Aluminum case approximately
yes
okok tysm sorry for all the questions
you're good
Are all keycaps compatible with the wooting 80HE?
not all but most. We use standard cherry compatible switches, which is probably 99% of the market of keycaps outside of a few manufacturers like some old logitech keyboard keycaps for example
is there a difference if i just use my akko switches springs for the switches in my HE ones? or would it affect the magnets
would a 60hev2 pcb fit in a neo60 core case?
USB port is in wrong spot

Sno are you gonna re do ow60 guide for 60hev2?
there’s no need to? What do you mean
Ekhem split spacebar
Yeah that’s not compatible
You just friction fit it in if you have split without using any ow60
We updated the text on ow60 page already before v2 was on sale
Ye forgot its there
i assume none of the other wooting pcbs would fit it either then
yeah. None of them fit the middle usb
you're going to need to give more details, is it random keys, is it particular keys etc
and what exactly do you mean by keys press 2 or 3x
but only O or S
?
or does it happen to every key
yes as in does it do it to every key
or only particular keys
you need to be a lot more clear
sounds like something wasn't secured well then
i'd re-check your installation
did you install all the layers correctly when you swapped the plate?
does anyone have other 3rd party compatible case recommendations for the 60hev2? could probably throw it in a tofu
actually, better question, using split spacebar wouldn't cause issues if i throw it in a tofu, right?
which youtube video?
like a plate specific video?
okay that's probably where you went wrong if you used the old friction fit from your optimum case
you want to use none of that
all you swap is the plate
that friction fit guide is for v1 modules that need to install and use the optimum friction fit stuff
what why?
the ones we sell aren't for v2
are you using a v1?
oh you're using a v1 module i see
then sounds like yeah you got something wrong in the installation
did you install too many layers?
you picked only one right?
we give a ton of layers, but you only use one layer, so i assume you have the foam leftover if you have the friction fit pad installed
odd then. Sounds like something messed up. Did you update firmware too? Check if you rollback firmware does it do the same bug still
there was some bug with the firmware on v1 iirc, so the rollback might have fixed it for you
choose different switch
TTC has much weaker magnet than Flux
Use Lekker v1/v2 and enable 0.5mm spacer
how many switches does a 60hev2 need? like 70?
People buy 65-70 normally to have spares but you need a few less depending on layout
thanks
im basically about to lock in a decision so just to double check, the tofu60 redux case would fit the 60hev2 pcb just fine, right?
correct
i see, thanks a ton for answering all these questions
Using Jade ultra, what switch should I choose in beta wootility?
probably just jade pro and lowering distance should be okay
Jade ultra should be in next update though
any recommendations stab that fit wooting 60HE+?
tysm
Keyboard
GT-60 @KBDfans
https://kbdfans.com/r?id=5a596a
KAP Generations @Keyreative
https://keyreative.store/products/kap-generation-keycaps?rs_ref=YIbE0bGg
10% Off: KeebTaro
KEEBMAT @keebmat
https://keebmat.com/?ref=keebtaro
Discount code: KEEBTARO
-- GATERON --
Magnetic Orchid Full Pom
https://ja.aliexpress.com/item/1005009531888805....
Interesting
Hey guys, I'm new to keyboard modding. I noticed the wooting v2 module does not include the foam that goes under the pcb. How can I acquire one? I intend to get tofu redux case but I don't think it comes with foam (from aliexpress)
it comes with the case you buy normally
tofu redux normally comes with case foam, although i don't know where you bought it from if it's official or what
I haven't bought it yet, but since I live in europe I have to buy it from aliexpress, they have an official store
Every other website I find in europe it's way more expensive
if it's official store i'd assume it includes the case foam, but you can always message them and ask
I think this is just my ignorance, thought you had to buy the foam separately. In the mess that is the descriptions in aliexpress they have this:
bottom foam = case foam
So yea they do include the foam. Could have looked a bit more before asking
Hey guys, so i swapped out my geon raw HE switches for ws flux deep clacks and the sound profile... is bnetter for me, but they are a bit more silent -- anything i can do for that ?
- Wooting 60HE v2 Module
- Lekker Tikken switches
- Tofu redux case
- PBTFans bow keycaps
That's all I need for a full keyboard right? Probably a dumb question but don't want to over spend 😅
yeah you're good
What plate are you using
We are using the WS Flux
🛸
ehh, the standard wooting 80he one i think, i do use the gt-80 case aswell
If you want it to be louder you could replace the PC plate with a carbon fiber.
You could also remove the sound dampening case foam
i dont want it to go anmd sound hollow t ho
Then grab a CF plate
i might have too ;p
i must say to everyone telling me to get the deep clacks from ws, i am very gladf i did ;D
That’s going to be your problem, the PC plate mutes a lot of sound
You have a few options: FR4, Alu plate, CF plate or Copper if you wanna get crazy (sounds like a metallic FR4 plate with Deep clack)
They’re also interesting on POM plate as well if you want to stick with plastic plates, but yeah I’d swap that bad boy
yeah... i would but investing more in my keeb is not for right now
so ill keep it in mind for my next upgrade ;D
Am I too stupid or are the lekker tikkens hard to remove, I broke like 3 already
WS Flux and CF plate is the play
We are waking up the entire neighbourhood
What puller are you using
If you’re using the default plastic Wooting puller that’s probably why
Tuff
All that happens is I manage to pull out the plastic diffuser
I’d recommend the Wuque studio titanium puller
It's not the puller
One of the best investments I’ve made and pulls everything pretty easily
I can pull out any other switch easily
are you gripping top and bottom before pulling?
the video i saw of this issue happening was from someone who was just trying to one hand quickly pull out switches without making sure to grip top and bottom and hold keyboard steady with other hand then pulling
kinda yeah but it worked now
turns out I did it wrong
also god damn are the 100g springs heavy
tbh i had a rough time removing my geon raws aswell, with a glorious switchpuller
geon raws are a bitch to remove
i have some 450g springs from china
well i tried the WS when i was installing them, wasnt great either lol, i find a normall custom keeb to be removed easier
Raws are notoriously difficult to pull
they are the extreme end of having a switch refuse to come out, but for those instances you can just remove the switch plate from PCB and poke em out
o well i got the fluxes now
when i was trying to swap my raws for jade pros, light diffusers went all over the place
hahaha ive had some popping out aswell, yeah
and a few of the sides u need to squeese broke aswell XD
this is the way
anyways, for the plates, carbon fibre would be very loud, yea?
it would be very noticeable yeah. PC is second softest plate and CF is second stiffest so it would be a very noticeable feel/sound difference
what a surprise, when full latency is measured (not just voltage test), suddenly a lot of 'faster' boards don't measure the same as their 'super fast' latency tests
I liked CF plate and Poron gasket pad with my DCF before going to copper plate
almost like maybe some boards were optimizing for voltage testing instead of actual usage cough
funny when he also mentions the noise issue where the results get muddy on some boards because their filtering sucks
holy fuck
it's what we've been trying to explain to people for a long time, but spec hunters just blindly believe silly voltage spec tests
which is literally just measuring the potential top speed of a motor instead of measuring the top speed of the car the motor is used in
When you say voltage test, where were they testing? The usb interface?
only matches by made68 pro but that shit is $150 and no 4 years warranty + unknown of long support.
where's source
they basically connect a testing device via usb and use voltage change to measure how fast it reacts - that's how a lot of the chinese testers get speed tests for boards
iirc melgeek has a video example somewhere of how it's done
but problem is then everyone started just cheating that test and optimising parts/testing for that test alone
that's from jerror video
From the perspective of the human and the PC though that seems like it should represent end-to-end latency
Curious how that could be gamed
the problem is it cuts out board processing
so you get a readout of how fast the potential speed of the parts are minus noise filtering/processing etc
From the video he mentioned the board is very very consistent
getting dat speed
but then when you actually have to go use the device it actually does noise filtering on inputs and such and you don't end up with those same results
lemme find the rakka explanation
ah here it is:
the board makers basically all realised they could test minus all the actual processing and their boards will look great on the meters and they don't need to worry that their firmware sucks
because the tests don't show consistency of filtering nor the processing lag
@glacial wind do you have any arguments i can give to guy that wants to know what wooting offers that not other company have? Excluding software firmware warranty and customer support 
good and supportive community
? but you just named the entire keyboard
literally all you didn't name is raw hardware lol
I tried using hardware argument
yep exactly. It's about consistency because a lot of work goes into developing noise filtering that is fast while still working effectively, but that's also some of the part that takes the most money + time and these brands don't have the dedicated software teams working on this stuff
I was giving him charts
He thinks wooting lies to us so wooting will earn more money
large large majority of brands basically do software by saying 'hey here's an issue, fix it please' and the person who actually does their software/firmware not at their company then has to go fix it since they don't really have dedicated software people for all that stuff
i mean that's on him then. If he doesn't want to buy a wooting he doesn't have to
I mean most Poles wont buy wooting because if keyboard costs more than 500pln thats too expensive
i don't really even know what we'd have to lie about. It's extremely clear how much effort wooting puts into every step of their keyboards
I tried explaining it to him
that's fine, wooting isn't meant for everyone. If they're not in the place to spend that much on a keyboard then it's fine. I've been a kid too, that's totally fine if you're on a tighter budget and can't afford wooting level product
we don't aim to make a product for everyone, just the customers that fit our demographic
OK, so going off the implication in the image they were measuring from the HE sensor which is obviously a bad way to check for latency. If they did check the USB port I think it would be fine.
oh yeah i should clarify it's via the sensor
but that would be more difficult of course, not just a straightforward voltage/no voltage
Gamer from rich country that's want "best" product
Basicly

hey that’s me
man, I feel bad for his money
Poland is eastern wages and western prices
the irony of all the testing is testers wanted to bypass the rest of the process to get latency tests that were just the keyboard itself, but all the sketchy manu's just started cheating that test instead and ignoring all the other stuff lol
so we end up back at xlat/solenoid type testing as being more reliable than the voltage tests
Maybe original wooting 60he for 100e in the outlet store? Can upgrade it overtime
@glacial wind ok when calder calling out manufacturers video
We need lil bit drama
"Lies, all lies. (truth about keyboard latency test)"
He has to use full siz.
i mean he has plenty of times in livestreams, but we're not going to make a video jsut specifically naming random brands, that's bad etiquette as much as it would be fun
what i would like to do is a deepdive video on understanding keyboard latency tests though, where we explain why and how things matter
kind of like if you got a tom scott type video on keyboard latency
Maybe ask eyejoker to turn on auto translation on his videos
Because i want to watch it in English
youtubers don't control that
youtube randomly picks to do that weird auto translate stuff
They have switch on video
Tho
You can either turn it on or off completly how i remember
IT is either in youtube studio in channel settings or on video
@glacial wind definetly wooting has it turned on
i assume he doesn't want to turn it on because of how technical his videos are
auto translate 100% messes up technical terms
Does friction fit offer any advatages over tray mount
better sound isolation for overall cleaner sound
Or maybe he doesent want English speaking community
Alright, I wanna make this 60HE v2 as good as it can sound so I will switch to friction fit
I saw Wooting dropped a video
what are you using now?
I wonder if I can do it with the Alumaze
oh you tray mounted
i mean tray mounting is fine too, just sound might not be as clean, but it is technically more stable for flex
I will do friction if that is gonna make it sound even better
Currently I have tray mount and no foams
I really like it
i wouldn't change if you like it already honestly
it's all a preference game and there's some people that will like tray mount too
like for me personally if i was only using 1 rig and never changing anything i'd tray mount + use a carbon fiber plate for max stiffness
Alumaze is compatible w/ the friction fit pad
this is what im gonna do when they release the plate files and i can purchase one + ws flux
i think its gonna sound amazing
tikkens do sound really nice on cf plate
i like the cf plate tikken combo more than fr4/pc + tikken combo
how do u think the combo i mentioned above play out
i mean that's fine too. I've used flux on cf in my 80he before
Cf plate + poron foam and DCF was a favorite combo of mine for a bit
im gonna do tray mount, no foam, cf plate and flux
lets see
yours sounds nice also
tray mount no foam? 
yessir
the resonation will go crazy
idk i like how it sounds
got that instrument's resonance
handlubed DCF + poron on CF made it super poppy which I liked for a while until I went to full metal geng
how to make macro for autopickup
Looked great, i wanna try the same thing sometime, Raptors been on my scope for months, just acquiring is not very easy
Okay been looking all day for black keycaps with dark grey accents or something like that.. I need suggestions that are in stock lol
We tried that once, all i can say is GOOD LUCK
I am getting my wooting tmmrw and was looking to lube it. I didnt know that there is a certain lube required how do I know that the one I ordered of brand still works?
Just some random one of amazon, I didnt even know that wooting lube.
Pc plate for the wooting v2? Or it comes with one?
Typically we use Krytox 205g0
The wooting lube kit comes with it in one of their lil containers
One of them is called GPL 205 G0
The other one GPL 105
At 4 min 43 secs what keycaps are they as they do not look like the stock double Shot backlit PBT keycaps. The legends are too white (unless they have been updated since the 60HE v1) . I have an order in for the Optimum case and 60HE V2 (split spacebar) and plan on using the double shot PBT keycaps. I have a few sets of GMK WoB but don't like the sound of them compared to the Wooting OEM profile. I think the black keycaps goes well with the dark grey metal case. Currently have the V1 with ABS case, new Lekker Tickers and FR4 plate with stock key caps and the board sounds and feels great - huge improvement over the orginal 60HE. Its a shame the ABS case is not yet ready for the V2.
does any do 3d printed keycaps OR CUSTOM KEYCAPS , i do need a high quality manufacturer or connect for my brand
if you buy enough quantity you can get a custom set from GMK
Are the 80HE stock stabs as good as the ones on the v2? The v2 out of the box feels better then any keyboard from brands like razer and hyperx I’ve used in the past
they are the same
Dope
I was thinking of picking up the 80he then and installing the new lekker mediums and call it a day. Maybe some different keycaps too
when did you place the order?
you'll get banned for tagging wooting staff
keep it up 
wdym the l60 switches or tikkens?
mind you the 80he is a pc plate and 60v2 is fr4 plate
if you want a fr4 plate on the 80he you can buy a customized one from torontokeyboard man
hey guys i need help w my wooting 60he+
had it for a year plus already and its showing sings of use and age i think
how can i do maintenance on it? do i use lube on some stabs?
i just bought my first wooting 60he v1 what’s the best mods i can do to make it thocky
thocky isnt a thing on HE keyboards
lube stabs and switches (or buy new switches)
you could buy a third party case
like tofu redux or gt60, etc
Gn
the more i use them the more i dislike the top out sound of the dcf
Huh, I haven't found any part of the DCF sound signature to be objectionable. Pretty chill to these ears.
have you tried owlabs
yeah i switched from those to dcf
then go back to owlab if you no like the dcf 
i want to try something different

might lube my tikkens n see if thats what im looking for
whats the full name of dcf
ws deep clacky flux
is it the sound you dont like
mhm
i will report back when I get mines
twenty is the only person i seen that dont like them
you have a 30 day return window if you dont like the switches

will cherry keycaps fit with ttc?
Yes
ty!
Are there any similar Cases like Gravastar V60 Pro except Holy60(I dont like the light)
Want to make a new Build when Split 60HE arrives, gonna go for Gravastar Ufo Switches but im not sure about Case&Keycaps
Like Gravastar on the Left, Light comes way better&looks cooler compared to a Holy60
not really
is there a trick to getting lekker v2 switches out? they are tough to remove. ive already damaged the clip on a few of them. and broke the plastic switch remover
Disassemble the keyboard and pull them from the plate
Sometimes, you may need to fully disassemble your keyboard, whether it's to swap out stabilizers or replace components due to a defect. In this video, we'll guide you through the process.
🛒 Wooting 80HE https://wooting.io/wooting-80he
✨ Follow our socials! ✨
Discord https://discord.gg/wooting
Twitter https://www.twitter.com/wootingkb
In...
okay ill just do that ty
I thought I had these installed the entire time
bruh
Idk what I have on my board right now lol
Only goats have these
anyone know if the he60 v1 foam mount pad works with the he60 v2?
Yezzir
for split to non split or non split to non split (v1 vs v2)
?
non split
if both non split then it might IF you're willing to mod it to fix the hole because one standoff won't be in the right place
but it probably won't fit just stock
Why do you want to use it though
so since i bought the fully assembled v2, i cannot change cases without the friction mount? i mean i could but ill have all that empty space inbetween the pcb and plate, right?
fully built v2 doesnt come with a foam plate mount
There's extra sandwich foam pad included with the v2 if you want to tray mount
oh
so like...how do i get that foam piece if i want to change cases?..
you'd just friction fit it for most cases
Finally being split ISO paid off somehow 
friction fit but with a stand off?
if you really want the foam pad you could reach out to support and request and maybe they might be able to help out, but generally you won't need it and friction fit works fine
it fits over the standoffs
we have extra rubber standoffs on the v2 that help make sure there's some clearance for standoffs if you friction fit over standoffs, and if you're really worried you can grab standoff covers for about $1-2
i have the older tofu 60 aluminum case, used it for my v1, i wanted to try the v2 inside it
generally most people will never need or want to tray mount
yes you just put your v2 right into it, then if you want to ground it you can screw in one screw in the corner
friction fit works on it
you don't have to tray mount to fit it into every old case
ahh okay, does it matter which screw whole?
nope, but most people pick the one on the top right
or alternative you can buy conductive sponge on amazon for like $5 to do same thing we did with optimum case grounding under the usb port
just glue it onto the aluminum case?
You'll need to scrape some paint off
yeah, sand or rub a little bit of paint off under the usb and glue it there basically
then it becomes just like optimum case with same grounding solution and no screw
sno did you do a sound test with the 60v2 case?
so as long as its screwed into the case with at least one screw, it should be grounded? idk anything about that stuff
correct
the stock one? There's a few floating around, like the one on our 60he v2 page for the foam vs silicone is that
yeah
cool, thanks for the help!
i want to hear other switches then just tikkens though
wondering how the dcf would sound like
yeah there's zero chance i'm recording sound tests in every case like that for every switch lol
yeah i know that
i just figured the only sound test done with that case is just tikkens
dcf sound pretty similar regardless, i don't think case matters much you can usually guesstimate how sound tone changes
like we already know plastic gives it a slightly dampened thud sound to all switches, more dense metal cases change the tone slightly deeper vs less dense etc etc
problem with recording one offs of random configs people want is that the sound would be different every single time for every single tiny thing, then people comparing would get confused and it would become a mess
9/10 people won't be checking discord or knowledgable enough to understand that x thing changed so you can't compare the sound now
so that's why i generally avoid changing any setups for sound tests from what I picked at the very first one
thats fair
just noticed something as well, there is a quiet yet high pitched noise coming from the right side of my board? i can hear it if i get close enough. unplugged the board, didnt hear it, plugged it back in and i hear it again. should i reach out to support about this?
i assume you have rgb on?
probably has it at 100%
yes
coil whine is fairly standard, some people hear it, some don't and it often goes away over time
I'm debating if I should buy the cerakey haha
you can turn rgb down a little bit and it should lessen/go away
the tikkens, aren’t they compatible?
is that whine "normal" with most boards or did i just get unlucky?
normal
new computers have it quite often as well
a lot of people have it too and probably never turn rgb up enough or listen closely enough to hear it
turn it down to 70% for the rgb setting
How much would 80HE fr4 plate cost?
didnt know that, is there a chance it will go away? i mean i like using the full rgb lol
yeah it often can go away over time
it's just a side effect of most electronics running electricity through it
it's very random and just happens to some components
like my computer gpu had coil whine when i first bought it, but it went away after a month or so
oh okay!
if the legends didn't fade over time it would be more appealing to me honestly
Yeah, heard about that
there's just so many annoying little compromises you have to make with cerakeys where it feels like a hassle
Not sure if it's still the case with the v3 keys, but can't be certain
v3 will be same
they have to be printed on is the issue, there's no 'fix' yet
the fix is buy blank version honestly
i have to get a set eventually for a keycaps video though, so i'll be forced to try them eventually lol
so we'll see how long the legends end up lasting
before i only used them for short periods at meet ups
I brought a set of Gateron Aluminum keycaps and used them for a while, didn't really like it.
Guess it goes to show more expensive does not always equal better
it does THOCK tho, if you're into that.
my gripe was the metal sound when you slide your finger across it.
I tried to be clever and put a thin layer of 00-20 Ecoflex under each keycap. it helped but still did not completely remove the metal sound
Yeah, can't say I'd pay 350 for that, I absolutely love that colors of the set though
Wish they made more sets with gold
Like the kbs onyx set, wish it wasn't sold out
I have an eye kept on GMK Kintsugi in case it gets resurrected https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=123620.0
[IC] GMK CYL Kintsugi |set renamed - Shōgun will be another IC/GB
Spacebars for split arrived alongside snack 😋
and you didnt get me one?!?!

Oblotzky the goats
https://pantheonkeys.com/products/squishe new akko astrolink recolors just dropped
Specifications:Switch Type: Magnetic LinearPre Travel: 0.1 - 3.3mmOperating Force: 50gTotal Travel: 3.4mmTop Housing: PCBottom Housing: NylonStem Material: POMLifetime: 100 Million KeystrokesFactory Lubrication: YesDesigners: Pantheonkeys & Squashy BoyManufacturer: HMX1 Quantity = 35 Switches
might just cop
do hall effect key press ratings work the same as mechanical ratings? e.g 50 million switches for mechanical
Any recommendations for 50-60g bottoms out springs for the WS DC Flux?
pref 20-22mm around 55g bottom out
long heavier springs are hard to find
tx are only ones i know that did it outside of aliexpress vendors, but they've been fully out of stock for awhile
plus flux has unique spring sizing
so you're kind of totally out of luck there
That's my main problem tbf
I've been looking for them as well. the TX HE springs are 6.1mm diameter, which is not wide enough for flux's 6.65mm springs (I measured 6.68 with my calipers)
also Geon also has HE springs
Geons HE Springs are 6.05mm in diameter tho
I mean, outside of aliexpress vendors
some minor fixes to the stab cheat sheet to remind people about needing 6 2U wires for split spacebar + added geon stem spacer information for short travel switches. It's re-posted in #🪛│modding_faq message in case anyone needs to reference it/download the image
if you want to you could also add that ISO split only needs 5 2u stabs
eh that doesn't help though cause the single kits come with 4 only lol
so they still have to buy 2 kits
i'll mention it when I do the more pictorial version of this later though
helped me cause i had exactly one stab left over from before so i only had to open one box of typeplus stabs

if only someone sells the stem spacers on amazon. it's pretty inconvenient waiting on other sites
So i need to buy 2 Knights V4s for my ISO Split DE?
anyone know where I can get white EN keycaps with Japanese kana sub-legends that support ISO Nordic in Europe, without costing a kidney? :)
yeah if you want to fill a full board. iso split would need 5 2u and kits only come with 4 2u normally
if you buy typeplus ones you can look to see if they stock the full size keyboard kit which has enough 2u wires
what is the magnetic flux of lekker tikken?
knight uses regular wires so you could get some balanced wires from geon and they should work
typeplus uses special wires
don't think it's publicly written anywhere, but they're quite high power magnets
ehh alright whatever
You could maybe explain what you need it for and someone might be able to help lol
Anyone know where you can find a stp file for cherry profile esc keycap?
Tryna to get a file I can send to a manufacturer to mill a custom keycap
Oh okay, you tested the Gravastar Ufos already right?
Whats ur opinion on those Switches?
yeah there's sound test on our database already
Yeah Sound is fire
i think they're good but people who aren't stability min/max people will hate them
but if you're a wobble maxxer person you'll love them
Why?
because you can feel the stem friction 24/7
they achieve no wobble by being extremely tight tolerances
much tighter than most manus typically go because it causes a sensation of tightness during the press
Do you need to Handlube them?
You need an extra Switch Openener right
custom design doesn't fit switch openers and the way to open them is very hard
not even that
you need tools and a pry tool
there's zero easy way to open them
He told you, there's friction
you can't handlube them is what i'm explaining
they literally do not open unless you force them apart and it's very hard
Okay
it's about the stem literally feels like it's held by a vice
think of old raptor x lekker before breaking in when the stem was a bit too tight
it's like that, where you feel the stem being held the entire time
so top tier for physical stability but not good for smoothness
I understand
Doesn’t sound comfortable to type on
Yeah
Isn't Flux stability similar? except slightly worse top wobble? You can actually hand lube them and they feel smooth
Prob something you need to test by yourself if you like it or nah
Whole switch seems like a gimmick
What are the best Switches for Stability&Smoothness rn?
Im still on Ur Studio Ice Ultra rn and i love them
nah ufo are more stable than flux for sure
at top especially
but flux has some give which means you don't feel that vice tightness
I was on that Site already but there is only Tiers about Top/Bottom Wobble
What else do you need
If you're sensitive to friction and still want a very stable switch, get Flux
Might just get 10 of both and find out by myself if i like it or nah
They are overall very good and don't sacrifice sound and feel for stability unlike many other switches
preciate it
there is no smoothness rating because it's dependant on the person
different people like different things so i don't have any rating for it
I see
i think if I wanted to lube UFO my hands might literally bleed by the end of 70 switches
the thing is not easy to open at all and awkward since it's not designed to be opened
So for lubing the stabilizers of the 60he v2, do I get 205g0? and do I need a specific brand?







