#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 482 of 1
https://www.gateron.com/products/gateron-magnetic-jade-pro-switch-set
comes factory lube, anyone have experience with these, are the factory lubes good enough or should I lube it also
Factory lube is good enough but you can just bag lube springs and it will sound a lot cleaner
specs basically mean nothing
The M6Lite is already very very low
so even if they do
it’s not really a selling point
yeah i know but i was just wondering if u guys had seen it
We’ve kind of reached the point now where specs don’t mean anything when we’re past 8k. It’s just using yet another oem board
All the oems have these specs or similar nowadays
optimization can be shit tho
the 66 has true 8k or somewhat true 8k but still latency is “high” compared to other boards
Specs are like a fancy body kit at this point. They don’t tell you whether a keyboard is good or bad
Your Ferrari looking car could be a Ferrari or it could be a Toyota with Ferrari tires
300K KEY SCAN 🗣️🗣️🗣️
yeah
WHAT DOES THIS EVEN MEAN🗣️🗣️🗣️
We speaking gibberish on the spec sheet today
it’s 300K something something
maybe 75K scan on WASD
= 300K
The m6 lite and such have been kings of bs spec sheet rankings since forever now too for example
0.005mm actuation point is about to go hard
The humidity in my room is gonna counter strafe for me
real
m6lite scores really high on mosts tests thrown at it. As far as I’ve seen currently.
Claims first by a mile on ice king and other Chinese reviewer rankings of random stats, but then when eyejoker actually tested it none of that converted into actual latency wins lol
they just win by using weird metrics for things like accuracy
in the end they just use weird metrics to position themselves first but end up no better than venom etc in latency results
not that their boards are necessarily bad, but they don't perform any better in reality than the other 50 boards with similar mcu/scan
Yeah it seems they are all trying to advertise some sort of breakthrough to rival wooting
Yet they all just end up being basically the same as each other
slow, I need more zeros
Need that atomic sensitivity
does eyejoker have the board latency tester yet?
Guys, you can help me, I just received my set of keycaps ISO FRENCH AZERTY, and I don't have a MODE key I don't know how to do it
It’s all weird stuff like “oh if you measure accuracy to the 7th decimal the m6 is so much better than every other board!” Then turns out that value is pointless in actual use
He has their older board tested but m6 lite is in member only right now
Oh you mean their actual latency tester
I like Mare’s tests on twitter
Put a random other cap there if you want to
that actually showed Hm’s latency
Nah eyejoker just does direct usb via his own rig so I don’t think he would have theirs
since he has his own self built one
rather than the latency clouded by actuation point
I hope he gets one
Why though? He already has a direct input usb setup
They’re both made by arbiter I think
it’s not via actuation point
The older version?
so his is already direct usb measurements via voltage
No as in it’s his own rig, not a device bought from someone else
He measures direct usb measurements via voltage
aka he's triggering it via direct input already and not physical actuation stuff
that’s good
did he show it in a vid ever? I’m curious
nah, he's only mentioned it in his discord when asked
😭
thanks boss, I'll see how they are with out bag lubing, don't wanna take the thing apart lol
melgeek has shown the direct usb measurement method before though. A lot of companies use that for testing/tweaking as well
Oh then use them stock, theyre nice
yeah, it’s the same as the tester. The tester just makes it quicker
will these work with the jade pro ??
thanks boss
Finished Handlubing my RAW HE Switches and the difference isnt that much compared to my WS Dashes. They def feel way more smooth then my Dashes
you can put any keycap to replace "mode". Most keycaps don't have a "mode" key so either you'd have to buy a specific set with a "mode" cap or just put any of the same size
as long as you know it's "mode"
replace it with an artisan if you have extra funds but really, any cap will work
Yes but I’d go with the longer ones.
You’re someone who wants the lowest weight possible?
😂😭
another new member of our church
PC plate is gone with the wind, CF plate is eternal, long live the church 
I noticed you didn't mention the best plate material PP 
If PC is too flexy, PP isn’t on the radar
My PP plate is less flexible then the PC plate I have
But the bottom out is still less harsh and the sound is still clacky 
Though I'm back to using PC on my KoM build 😳
naaaaaah
Crazy how flexy PC plate is
TTC + FR4 😳
That what you're running?
I hesitated to put in my FR4 cause I find the disassembly process a pain w/ the standoffs.
Well I'm at 4 different plate materials when my CF plate arrives we'll see 
Ill try that and CF in 4 days
ill experiment will try without foam and preinstalled pet film too
What
🧐
I thought PP was the most flexible
Not really is it lighter than the lekker v1?
i handlubed my raw hes and actualy the difference isnt that big bro
do you know how i get them maybe a little bit less clacky?
Idk I hated my PC plate and love my PP plate
Should I be holee modding the screw in stabs that come with the 60he module?
Yes PP very strong
In large part how easy PP is to deal with
Idk I had a Wooting PC plate and a PP hypekeyboards plate
You could foam up your case a bit
That’s just my experience
I don’t regurgitate online information
I just speak from experience
It is
What foam?

Idk about all PP plates but the PP plate cafege sells is way more solid then my PC plates
Lowkey the screw in stabs are ok but there's some ticking
Are you using them on 60he with steel plate?
Yo
60he in tofu 60 redux, pbtfans keycaps and pc plate
Ah PC. You can try doing tape mod 🤷♂️
Depends which springs you go for.
Makes Tapemod such a big difference? and is it easy to remove after without damaging anything?
You need to use painters tape, it cant really damage anything
Use the right tape and it’s easy to remove
this one?
tape mod will make your kb slightly deeper, it will be less clacky
Need to order
Tape modding is in our opinion is the easiest and most rewarding mod you can do. Overall the tape mod makes your keyboard more poppy, but sometimes the results are neglectable. That's why we will be testing the masking tape mod in this video.
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Anyone got 15mm 26g springs for Geon raw he
Okay can you send me the link to the spring want it be a little lighter than the original springs
@tawdry tree
These are slightly lighter than stock Jade Pros: https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ev3jRNO
Thanks
Ya?
Anyone got 15mm 26g springs for Geon raw he
@hexed knot
How much is the original weight
Yes bro?
Anyone got 15mm 26g springs for Geon raw he
@hexed knot
Yes bro?
spring

u got
@hexed knot tho
What
The ones I sent you before are 15mm 28g iirc.
Alr
50g
😂😂
Sorry I find it... a bit much.

spring
CUTEEE
Guys does the weight in the tofu 60 case matter sound wise?
Any keycap set you would recommend for 80HE in style like wlmouse ying63 ling or color gradient (see pics)? Must be at least as good as stock wooting double shot PBT
Yes. Without the weight it sounds like a bell.
🔔
Black and white looks sick
Ordering it rn
If your budget allows it, go with weight.
It does but I thought it made no difference so why bother
These are good enough mods?
Yup but this particular one comes only with whole keyboard
im trying to find some nice keycaps as well lol
Bruh I can here to say this
I’ve got gradient white-grey side print keycaps
Let’s see how that turns out
from where
For a wooting keyboard?
Yes
Xvt
Just be aware that side legends may not be terribly bright since they are on the south side and wooting's LEDs are north
Amazon
Fuck…
Bruh idk what to get them
Then
It may be fine, just won't be as bright as on a south-facing LED board 🤷
Yes that’s true
No idea, never seen it in person or in video. I'm sure you can find some example on the interwebs.
You could try to find some top shine through instead of side
Similar to Wooting's shine through offerings
I guess cause most keycaps have alphas on the north side
Hey guys how fast can u guys get in this https://cps-check.com/keyboard-cps just curious
tyler is that you

Yeah i got it from him
I did it and got 105
Damn
Actuation point at 4mm, put a piece of tape over ur spacebar and drag click for 100cps 😃👍
tbh that is just me having a stroke, let me try properly haha
Well i jad actuation point on 0.1 and rapid trigger on 0.04 and only got 106 max i think my finger needs to het faster for the max potential of my venom 😅
tyler's charge button
Tyler got 100
Imagine i think he would score so high in this
Rapid trigger works on this right ?
Why at 4mm and not 0.1 ?
Nah i meant in the sute it can register that right ?
of course, it's in your keyboard, it doesnt matter where you're pressing buttons
Oh but i wonder how t1 got so fast then whith a shit keyboard and no rt
For drag clicking, you’re using friction to click and that’s a lot easier to achieve constantly at 4mm than it would be at 0.1mm.
do you know what keyboard he uses?
Oh yeah after thinking about it it makes sense mb haha
I think he even uses sole membrane shit board
It’s possible at 0.1mm as well, just a tad bit more difficult.
Yeah indeed
How much can u het on the test ?
well if you find the actuation point it's easy to do that many presses
Yeah but imagine t1 on he biatd with rapid trigger then
Unlock the man´s true potential
Not at my desk rn but my cps on a mouse is around 15
keyboard quite a bit less most likely
did you try playing around with rt sensitivity to see how much it affects your cps?
No not really why is lower not just better for this test ?
It is, the lower the better. Just for fun.
Oh yeah i see try it whitout and see hiw luch i get
Whitout tt but actuation at 3.3
nice
that’s very good still
This is with rt
🥴
Guys i also have this problem my usb c is not really tight and when i woggle it a bit it can easy disconnect in my tofu case and when it reconnects i have strange behaviour like this
U see i press z wich is w cause qwerty now
And instead of typing it closes my browser
Try to shift your pcb ever so slightly forward before mounting it in your tofu
That entirely solved my issue with the "loose" USB c
As for this it's likely just a bad calibration, unplug and replug it should ve gone
I use friction pad from wooting
Try shifting it ever so slightly forward if possible
Also when i replug board
Is it bad bad? Like when you slightly adjust the case it disconnects?
Browser closes instead of typing
maybe you screwed it in wrong and some keys are ghosting?
🤔🤔🤔
Nah not really bad but still kinda bad
Has this been happening since getting your board?
What you could do is remove the “shield” entirely. That’ll solve the issue but it also mean it’ll be slightly open.
You could take the little circle piece around the USB port and it'll fix this entirely, but it looks worse
Beat me to it
Yeah exactly
I dont know i honna i will do that
Friction mounting my 60he made it so my usbc stays in just as good as stock case
Although I use oring not friction pad
when i wiggle the usb it still disconnects fronm time to time well alteast i heard the disconnect sound
Mine feels likes it damn near locked into my keyboard
Encountered similar issue and it was a bad usb cable connector. Change usb cable
u have venom ?
Oh no 60he

Might be looking at an rma with how loose that looks 
damn easy on that connector lol
Yeah that port looks like it may be cooked
did you connect and disconnect that a lot
No not at all
If it was received like that definitely look into rma
I can try and remove the frictuon pad
I dont know if that has anything to do with ot tho
Do you mind taking the PCB out rq and recording the back of the PCB with the cable plugged in?
Friction pad won't be causing it, especially if you took out that one piece
The whole module ?
Yeah, and just flipping it over to see the back of the PCB
the port specifically
The port itself doesn't seem loose on the pcb
This is fine.
Can you get a picture of inside the port with your flash on?
If it’s not bad to a point where it’s an annoyance (happening during use), then I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

Do you know what may have caused
This is solething i am worried about more
(it’s fine still, but not in perfect condition 🥴)
Definitely looks a little worse for wear
I don’t know. I’d try a keyboard checker website and repeating this.
just make sure not to scratch any contacts with that up and down movement, cause it might ruin the port
To see which key(s) the board sends.
Yeah definitely wouldn't wanna make it worse
this makes me want to get a low profile cable, so that when my board bounces around in the frog, the cable doesnt move in relation to the port lol
Well it happened when the board disconnected a gew times i dont know
Has it happened since ?
No it only hapoens when the board disconnects and reconnects a few times
Sounds like it's caused from just a bad calibration
🤔 Maybe it’s a windows thing?
Which button closes the browser?
If it only happens after the board regains power this is what I'm leaning towards
Ctrl + w
Ctrl sounds like it's being held on
I've had similar happen and it was just bad calibration
Bad calibration, Control stays activated and W is pressed.
Yeah makes perfect sense.
But i had to touch ctrl when the board regained power to recreate the issue
Try doing this and see if it'll recreate it? @high sphinx
well indeed maybe callibration thing
Hold ctrl when you plug the board back in
And press w in your browser
See if it'll do it
I’m not familiar with Venom’s calibration process. If it’s anything like Woot, unplug and replug would’ve fixed it.
when i am in browser and hold ctr and w it closes it
I assume they would do the same as it makes the most sense?
Hold ctrl and plug your board in, after it powers on don't touch anything. Go into your browser and just press W
i think it is fixed after i waited a few seconds
See if it'll do it
It depends per board but yeah, most likely.
Venom's calibration might just take a bit longer and you hit ctrl while it was doing it? Assuming it's the issue and venom's calibrates similarly to wooting
do i reallease ctrl when i plug board back in ?
Yes
oh i did that and it did not close my browser just presses w
Well I'm even more confused now
This is btw on my wooting 80he
I just wanted to show also i found this https://discord.com/channels/743801649377574924/1329136768666304532
mine is also moving but I try not to touch it too much
Wich pcb u have ?
80HE
Oh ok
Yeah I mean the port has room to wiggle but I'm not sure exactly why it'd be disconnecting unless it's making bad contact or something
@harsh dove
Yeah it makes the sound but i can still use the keyboard
It is weird
Is this a venom only issue or something?
damn I hope the contacts are not fucked
you need to stop the wobble and repluggin it as soon as possible I think
Well i can woggle my port on the wooting 80he
First time I've seen it, but I also rarely see venom builds
Yeah you can wiggle your port on all keyboards, that's not what I'm saying
Well it is plugged in now and it will stay plugged in
The port itself looks a little worn but nothing that bad
my cable can wiggle rn in the frog but not as much, maybe cause the port is deeper in the case
im on wooting rn btw
so maybe all usb-c ports have some wiggle room
Some wiggle room should be normal, the amount in the vids seemed a bit much
Makes me think it maybe shipped with bad contacts on the pads or he loosened the contacts on the pads by wiggling it so much
i did not wiggle it at all actually just now to show u guys
and i found out cause i was doing some typing test
this whole discussion made me think once again about how big the connector on my cable is and how it can be in the way when I use it with the frog mini, like when the pcb is bouncing up and down, the cable may not always be able to move with the pcb naturally and it tilts a bit
ordered an "audiophile" cable from aliexpress, cause it has a lower profile connector than my current cable 
and i had to switch mouse to left side for clicking and then i could use my right hand fast on the keyboard otherwise i would loose a second
So in other words, it came like that
yes
Might be an RMA tbh
Should get in contact with geons support
this is something i found out while my mouse cable touched the keyboard cable\
i got it from deltakeyco i gonna contact them
i just realised i'll have to get another cable for the second keyboard
well i send a mail to deltakey
lets wait for their response
well i have to mention that i am also on the beta firmware
so idk if that has to do with something
don't think it would affect physical disconnects
yeah well it is better after i took out the part of the tofu redux
hype
frog + venom + gmk caps + raws + alu plate
elite
lol
I’ve come so far
I still have the plastic Wooting case and the stem swapped raptors next to my desk to remind me of where I came from
lol nice

my build will look basically the same except that i have salvation instead of frog haha
hype
yup
i got rng salvation
so i hope i get a decent color or one thats easy to work with
as long as i dont get the poop color
ah the intercom color
Would be fire
💯
Gateron Magnetic Genty Switches are semi-silent, hall effect switches with a muted top-out. It accomplishes this by placing mute, silicone pads on the top housing where the stem contacts it therefore reducing the noise on the return travel. Gateron Genty Semi-Silent HE Switches Features: 18 included in each pack Linear
These are the same Genty’s right?
Yo have there been any changes for polarity compatibility for wooting PCBs?
Or is it still N pole only
@spare mauve
Actually not 100% don't think full support has been added but may be added in a future update
Should be they look pretty similar
Yeah I want sure if they were new or just new to Divinikey
Hey currently switching out the switches with sticky rice v2, which way should I have them facing?
Window facing up
The side with the angle and texture
Thx
Facing the cam in the first pic
u sure?
the window side usually has a straight down hole
so the rgb can go up
also best to determine when looking from above with some light behind
I’m looking at shots, I dunno. Figured that was the diffuser
The other side looks like a block of plastic
this thing is the diffuser, and that side should be with the light on the pcb if you are using wooting
hm yeah seems they somehow opted for a diffuser
Oh shit
I'll put it on a shit key which way should it face
Rest are fine it's just 1 I think
Well that’s the window Tony was talking about 😆
Goes up?
Window goes up
ok that makes no sense
nah the one with the hole in there, the diffuser fell out in the bag or something
it is a separated piece
that makes even less sense imo
it is similar to the one on raw he
well im saying it makes less sense because (at least in theory i dont have such thing to test) it would cause the light to not diffuse through the entire tophousing properly due to the plastic, air, plastic gap around the diffuser
or is the point to just have 1 "brighter" spot at the top
My theory at least for the KoM Pom is it’s a materials thing. Two different plastics and such. Cause the OG KoMs have the diffuser molded in
a lot of recent HE switch diffusers are like that unfortunately, I personally hate it
Geon RAWs are like that
But that’s just my theory, not a materials science wonk
I also think it affects how hard it is to pull switches out
which is annoying
just build the diffuser into the top housing
why do extra steps
The ones like jades and KoM og are so so much easier to pull
Yeah cause they're built into the top housing and not in the way of the clips
Also what tony said, it affects RGB
Yeah makes sense
I made an unwise but exciting decision
Going in on the rng salvation
Thanks 🙏
Rest are windows?
and yes it does what i thought and keeps the light basically only in the diffuser. if it was 1 piece of the tophousing molded in it would keep the light throughout the tophousing
lekker v2 so yes
I guess if you’re using shine through caps that could be a positive
depends on the print
if the legends arent top center it would actually not benefit much if not even decrease the rest
although tbf i dont have a switch that properly diffuses it throughout the entire tophousing either so it might be worse that way as well
Yep
Probably my biggest complaint about the RAW HEs
Even tho I don't use RGB
It also affects removal like I said
LIER, bro blinded me just yesterday.
Yeah cause yall asked for it lmao
eh not too concerned since none of the HE switches should be pulled at the window side either way
they all just have a very thin edge from the bottom housing there
I'm saying the diffuser piece that's installed on the RAWs is behind the bottom housing clips so it makes it harder to remove them from the plate with a switch puller
unless I'm misunderstanding what you mean
on none of the switches i know can you actually push the clips in
the hooks are all on a part of the bottom housing that has no cuts on the side to bend inside
at leats all switches ive seen irl
maybe I have a skill issue but the RAWs always seemed harder to pull than the rest of the switches I've tried but maybe it's not because of the diffuser like I'm thinking
if you look the hooks never get pushed in by anything
this goes (to my knowledge) for all HE switches
so pushing with a puller from the sides on those bendy bits does nothing
If it's a skill issue we both have the same issue. No other switch I've pulled is as difficult/inconsistent as the raws
i found pulling the side with no hole/diffuser first makes the process much easier
yes we recommended since lekker to just grab it like any switch with the puller and not pull out the top side but only the bottom side
basically levering it out
that way the puller can grab the meat of the bottom housing
my theory is that the plastic diffuser piece doesn't let me push the clip in as far to remove it from the palte
They added the “Semi” in there. I’m dead
huh jade pros are the first i know of then putting the hooks on that part
yea i remember the the pic you showed the other day. i was just guessing that is what you meant
thanks btw
but yeah the usual recommendation is to lever them out because of this
yeah that's basically my complaint
and yes it goes against what most people wanna do with just pull straight up
im actually not sure why gateron initially designed the lekkers this way
or why most companies copied it
v2s?
With old KS-20s and Hejins you’d only use one side to pull because you’d completely bend the LED window if you used both sides to pull (pulling straight up). With Raw HEs you’d only use one side to pull because the other side has the LED widow which nothing can grip properly.
Gateron’s 20Us and recent Jades can be pulled straight up as their LED window is thicker and stronger.
Haimus are in their own league. You need a crowbar and a miracle to get those out.
Both polarities are fully supported (on somewhat recent firmware versions). 👍
lol yeah that’s why I wasn’t sure if it was diff
But makes sense

Fk bro now I’m scared
I hate pulling switches
Maybe I should’ve bought 90
just try to be gentle, clumsy ass like me was able to move my raws to 3 4 different plates. plus you are using the softer plates which would be easier to deal with anyway
Raws are definitely harder to pull because of the diffuser but with good technique, it’s still fairly easy.
i kept a screenshot of this gud advice
Wel they’re going in Alu first
Maybe I just never take them out
LOL
Yeah that’s my style
And I got that TX AP puller so hopefully solid pulls only

yeah this is great explanation
that is the one mr cam was using yesterday right :3
yeah and the wuque studio one
Very nice
looks like a doctor did it
reminds me of when i used to cut those tapes with like a diy knife.
Does anyone know if the durock screw in stabs work with the wooting module?
60HE+? Not really and no need to switch to Durocks from the stock stabs.
Okay cool thanks!
Yah the thick one
TX puller supremacy! 🗿
where the sticky rice sound test
we waiting
Isn't there also a rice pudding? Or is that the sticky rice v2?
yes rice pudding is a thing
sticky rice v2 isn't getting produced i think everywhere i look its sold out
unless a giant surge of people started buying it
The Maxs
i think that is essentially a sticky rice by a different maker
but yea i dont remember 100%
mr. aligner knows more
he has like multiple version of those
Yeah, the height of each, and/or all together.
Unfotunately, I do not have any CAD to open this.
the PCB is 1.6mm thick, the foam is 3mm thick and the plate is 1.5mm
Thanks!
As I'm awaiting the arrival of my caliper. Do you happen to also know the distance of the USB-c port from the edge of the pcb?
Like how far out it protrudes?
I guess moreso the center of the USB-c to the edge of the pcb. Like the outermost left edge of the pcb
I'd say 13mm
This right?
Yeah
Yeah 13mm
Awesome, thank!
Not from center of usb c btw
That’s from edge to the edge of the PCB
Basically exactly where you see the red line is what I measured aka 13mm
Lucifers better
lmao is ZanixFPS mj
atrocious
☠️☠️
mad60 my goat 🗣️ 🔥
My fav😏
Yo do these restock quiet often or nah?
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Or is it limited time
@sacred elm
from Jean @ PBTFans/KBDFans
I assumed it would be limited run tbh, these sets usually are
they usually only do another run if the designer allows it
Mega destroyer
Sound test for the January Prototype v1 by Artemis Design Studios (myself and r00dy)
Specs:
- Switches:
- Alphas: Aeboards Naevies (L/F)
- Mods: Gateron Black Inks (L/F)
- Plate: Aluminum, 1.5 mm
- O-Ring: 30A
- PCB: Bakaneko 60% Hotswap PCB
- Stabilizers: TX Stabilizers, lubed with Krytox 205g0
- Sound Dampening: N/A
- Keycaps: GMK St...

@harsh dove i got a response from deltakey
and
This is the conversation
Yeah sounds about right
So i guess my port is normal then ?
I mean yeah, we said the wobble was normal, just that if you wanted to try and RMA it if it was that big of an issue then you could try, but yeah what they responded with it pretty much accurate, most people aren't moving their keyboards around that much so if you can find a cable or position that works without it disconnecting all the time then you should be fine
Yeah now i removed the thingy from my tofu case it is resolved i think much better now ty
what thingy?
Here is the wobble on my Wooting80HE btw
just as an example
however the 80HE doesn't disconnect from Windows when I do this like the Venom
Yea that wobble is on both 60HE and 80HE but they dont disconnect when you do it
Yup
Someone suggested it and now it is better much better
If it works it works
Also last question how would i know if one of the contacts of the usb is fucked loke u mentioned before ?
Pretty shite picture lol but if the port becomes loose or ripped off of these silver contact pads
There’s actually someone in here recently who posted a pic of a ripped off port and damaged pads
Oh yeah mine just look normal nothing like this
Yeah
Ty for ur help and explanation btw ur 80he looks sick 🔥
Yeah no problem, and thank you
Evil dolch is on its way 
Cosmos soon too
From left to right:
Yiqian’s Sticky Rice V1 (open bottom)
Yiqian’s Sticky Rice V2 (closed bottom)
Hejin’s Sticky Rice/Glutinous Rice/Rice Pudding (closed bottom).
Anyone know where i can get good quality cables in EU?
dont wanna overpay on shipping for a cable
hrm another drop of knight v3 stabs for sale, tempting
Whats the difference between v2 and v3
just some minor optimization for the fit of the wire and housing
and they improved the rounding/deburr process on the ends of the wire a little bit
is there a good open bottom housing that works with jade stem
trying to dampen my spacebar
on salv
@glacial wind how do the lucifers compare to the raws?
Honestly if they weren’t by geon I think no one would even buy them
https://youtu.be/uTmfsY8fH68?feature=shared
raw he aren't even in the list?!
Save on average 27% on switches + free shipping over $49 at Milktooth: https://milktooth.com/
Featured switches in this video:
Wuque Studio WS Dash: https://milktooth.com/products/switches/ws-dash
Everglide Sticky Rice V2: https://milktooth.com/products/switches/sticky-rice
TTC Magneto: https://milktooth.com/products/switches/magneto
Gateron Ma...
also has anyone tried everglide master
v1 gang 
I can't say I trust Milktooths videos after recommending the sticky rice's (when they had issues) and I got some silent switches based on his recommendation which may have been the worst keyboard purchase I've made 
although that second one was probably because QC went downhill after initial batches
i mean also the fact that the "top 1" switch happens to be "on sale exclusively" on his site seems off as well...
is sticky rice v1 3.5mm travel?
people still buy sticky rices in 2025
because he didnt sell them
i wish he does, i need some black knight and raw he
i just swapped from fr4 to alu for my salvation, a bit too loud compare to my tofu, think i go back to fr4 and that put on some jade knight which would have a louder bottom out and i think that may work nicely with fr4 to reach the volume i like
No. 4mm or so.
V1 (open bottom) - V2 (closed bottom).
you are the best and i love you :3

i was trying cope sticky rice v1 space bar with jade pro on alu + salvation
Do you mean good quality as in Wooting compatible or do you mean good quality as in premium custom cables?
More people should use multiple switches in their boards. It’s fun and gives the board more character. 😌
yea i know mx its common, i was unsure of if that would work correctly with calibration and stuff.
How do you like the V1s?
haven't really make a whole board with it
but its not horrible
How do they compare to your drilled V2s? 🤣🤣
i just tried lekker v1 this morning, trying to cope with the open bottom of lekker v1. i press it a few times and realize how lucky we are to have raw he

the drilled v2 is a bit louder much louder
Real
As expected. Are V2s cleaner still?
and it enhances the experience
Yeah I think so too.
TTCs are great when you don’t consider their price.
All around much better designed than Gateron’s or Hejin’s.
i think for salvation + he switch a plastic plate maybe necessary
but i gonna wait a bit before spending 50 on a plate
i will be the buyer of the first 5 dollar ttc he switches
its worth it
All gas no brakes bro, why wait when you can go broke now?
Their new “collectors” ones are pretty close.
btw a question for you more experienced people, would 2 piece case (with top case and bottom case) have lower volume spacebar due to the way its structured?
compare to tray mount or variations of tray mount like salvation which are 1 piece
i found my tofu 2.0 in terms of volume much more even compare to salv
but i am not sure if that is due to the mount or other aspects of the case design
It depends a lot on what kind of gasket it is. I think for the frog mini, the spacebar isn’t quieter. I would say so for the 80HE’s gasket though.
It’s not really a fair comparison but still.
Thanks for reaching out bruh
as in not terrible and shit
yea i was wondering maybe that is related to the amount of open space at the bottom for salvation
as well
Dont need coil or anything fancy just a good cable that meets the spec and isnt absolutely awful
sometimes i wish i took more physics classes
For the salv, it can go either way. Silent switches stay silent, more so than in tray or friction but mid to loud switches get amplified more it seems like.
UGreen’s cables work well and are cheap. They look very plain though, mostly just black. Not sure if you like that.
yea i agree. i tried when i was swapping between tofu redux and salv
Could very well be. I’d imagine for the spacebar specifically, it matters quite a bit on how close the mounting (gasket) is to it. If that makes sense.
my bad here
yea i would expect if the mount is closer then the portion would a bit more stiff, leading to a louder sound
I guess in salvation there isnt any gaskets, so it is not dampened like some other boards, so it is generally louder
the quietest way is probaby when gaskets are applied to the pcb
Like if the mounting points (where it sits between the case) are far from it, then it’d sound louder compared to if the mounting points are right next to it.
between coping softer plate and making a franken switch i am leaning toward softer plate right now just because less work
for me
I think the opposite, (of course just guessing here) but for friction, it dampens the sound a tad bit.
and that’s like right right next to it
very stiff

Softer plate for sure
Lucifers x Raw HEs would be cool though
Closed bottom monochromes 🥰
yea i think its a bit more stiff compare to gasket since the leaf spring thing is fr4
but the feel do be special because of that too i think, making it bouncy rather than just soft/stiff
luckily i have this
i think this plate being the way it is also helps with the sound a bit, less empty space on the spacebar compare to geon's own plate
For sure. I wonder how much the plate holes affect the sound. Like skeletonized plates vs normal ones.
i kinda just expect it contributes in a similar manner to flex cut
Yeah
salvation + alu + jade pro + sticky rice v1 spacebar, really metallic 
its really fun but the spacebar be out of tone
Sounds a lot cleaner good job modding
Depends what end result you want, I just ordered a cf plate for my 80he to try out
Im really happy with the one I picked up for my custom 80he 
iam trying to get one but\i dont know which one fr4 or pc or fr4
what plate do you have right now?
Do you have a 60he or an 80
how does the Venom 60he compare to Wooting 80he in terms of latency
small difference
is the venom the fastest pcb atm?
amount the top ones, same as 80he
some on youtube, think you can search for it
Eyejoker has good stats
and honestly between 80he and venom60he, i highly doubt the difference is at all noticible...
The difference is effectively none
60
good luck noticing 0.05ms difference
you can base your choice on what you currently have, if you think what you have is too quiet too deep sounding, get something more stiff, if you think what you have is too loud and too high pitched, get something softer
wasnt the test before the led bar thing tho?
where its still has fx with tachyon
venom is kinda expensive thjo ngl
yes
🤣
doubt it has updated

it wasnt updated, tests are with old firmware
Dunno, it's been a while and our keyboard gets faster pretty much every firmware update
Every time you see in the patch notes "scanning improvements" or "analogue stability" or anything remotely related to "signal" you can bet that translates to faster speeds
that'll be cool
Cake or Cookie?
Ok but will that help me when i move like a old man
some random image translator + eyejoker's vid from 1 month ago
https://discord.com/channels/743801649377574924/1328797706768089099 have u guys seen this ?
damn
so i will be using my knight v2 with the leggera case then nice
that would explain why the pcb mount plate says mini leggra.
damn and are those keyboards not kinda cheap ?
i think some are indeed cheap, but not sure how good their QC, software, and support are
yeah and probably also more latency then venom i think
i have no clue, i brought venom mainly for its compatibility.
yeah indeed i am hyped now for the leggera i can use oring with screw in stabs

yeah i saw it but is pre order not over already ?
once geon get the case then i think you can find the case online somewhere
cause in the screenshot i took, the guy who mentioned the information is the people who actually make the case(not design but manufacture or whatever the proper term is)
i hope geon gets some in stock but well i hope i will get my hands on one and then i also need an oring i already have the plates etc since i am using the venom in the redux now
oh ok nice
noob here…what exactly is the difference between geon raw hes and jade pros…
he has them in hand right now just can't sell them without geon getting his portion for the preorder people first
or do i need something else except the case and an oring ?
you will need a jst table, i dont know where you can buy it in eu but in us there is divinikey.
geon site has it for sell as well under geon something something daughterboard
oh yeah
actually i would hope leggra include one in the case
because for leggra the daughterboard is different if i remember correctly
so i also need other daugterboard ?
yeah i hope it comes with it tho
Isnt there 2 versions of the leggera with different connector locations?
One for oring mount one for screw in
yeah but i wanna do oring
think the top one is regular left usb c port
plus i remember either geon or the chinese guy mentioned that the daugterboard is different for leggra
look at the little space and compare with the picture i just took
i brought one of those when i got the jst cable just in case i need it in the future :3
this little guy
they really should include this though, otherwise it would be confusing af for people
yeah
whats the diff between 6.25u or 7U
one for normal people one for crazy people
explain in roblox terms
one is lvl 100000 and the other is lvl 1 bajilion
Ok but in all seriousness, that's just the length (in units) of the spacebar. 7u is just longer than 6.25u.
this is 6.25U
sexy
this is 7U
6.25u is used on most standard ANSI/ISO layouts
6.25U is pretty much what you normally see and use. 7U is pretty
7u is the debil
At least it ain't 10u
i need to get back to this key cap set + desk mat
hi sexy man
First time doing something like this. Is it just me or does this puller suck? The plastic one seems better and its also less likely to warp the view plastic thing.
or this side first essentially, and wiggle
@high sphinx found the live stream on oring leggra
The grabby nubs seems much smaller vs the plastic one.
Wait maybe it's a key puller and not a switch puller
the black one you lay on top of the case is a switch puller
I thought the lubrication tools came with something to pull switches.
The size of the nubs are the same as the key puller in plastic. Weird
That goes so hard lol
Tadpole mount < o-ring mount?
Interesting he’s getting away from tadpole mount it seems
nah i think its just small difference
i wonder if that is like "i want to slap my brand on some random mouse" or if it is a legit good one
He probably just made a one off for himself if I had to guess
It’s a viper v2 pro I think
With custom shell
ahh so the original one has led there too?
Err I guess not
Ty i will watch it laterctoday playing cs with sole friends now
me no use razer, every time i buy i get disappointment
which one you on again :3 ?
I’m not on razer lol
But I have a modded vv2 pro and a dav3 wired I keep around
And a modded M3K I daily
I might sell the vv2 pro mod tho
Rather stay wired
think its possible since optimum made a custom one for himself. i bit with the machines geon has he can do his own too
wired gang lets go
Yeah. I’m all wired everything
Was thinking I would keep the vv2 pro around for when I want to go wireless. But I never want to go wireless lol
holy fuck m3k is 357 dolla before shipping
Yeah it’s chill
I bought the modkit for like $110 and a a PMM shell for like under $100 tho
So I don’t have carbon fiber but it’s lighter and I think I prefer the shape
So I’m happy
No
That’s vv2 pro
For the first one
And now it’s finalmouse for the new one
He goes wireless
really, the shape is pretty similar to the m3k
oh yea i remember he had a battery in there
Huh? Zeromouse is like more of a frame than a shell
@kind helm i think I can use 7u now. Just move my right hand keybind a little bit to the right.
Well in this stream he snaps off the usb port is it worth it you huys think ?
i personally think yes
gummy oring mount is pretty good from what i heard
bro r4ping my ears 
why you sending your sex tape with your board bb
Ok might order a second pcb tho then so i jave one for in the future maybe Hen i wanna do a left side usb port like i have now
you lucky I'm using ghost bar or else it'll be like a gun shot every second
i was thinking of this
but yeh, this is a nice solution to my problem
But u cant ground ur board that way right ?
leggeras are one piece so it's cheaper to make, thus no tadpoles
cause the finger tip grip
you ground through daughter board
superior
Right. But that looks nothing like M3K lol
usb c port not moving while you type
Yeah maybe more cost effective for sure. You think that’s determining factor?
I was checking out some o-ring mount boards last night 👀
Have u seen the usb c wobble i have ?
well I guess he just wanted to make a case that is more available, as for gummy vs tadpoles I dunno
maybe gummy is better even
Trying to o-ring mount Wooting kind of turned me off but with a proper PCB setup could be good tho
i just thought the shape + the grip you need with this but yee think you right, i didnt look into m3k at all since its way above what i can afford
Right yeah that’s my question
Thought I was done but now I’m tempted lol
yea
yeah I think it's quite diff from wooting kinda friction mount
in the og way the pcb rests over a soft oring
friction mount is copium

What is ur opinion about it is it to mich or reasonable ?
like the pcb yes is secured with friction but at the same time you still have the pcb banging against the bottom case
Yeah can’t have that
For this i jave some silicone caps comming
if mr cam think its cool imma say its cool too
Ok haha
Is the lettering transparent on the wooting double shot backlit PBT keycap set? Will I be able to see the LEDs through the letters on the caps?
The sound is so wildly different on my 60 in a friction mount vs tray that I think saying it's still banging against the case is a bit hyperbolic. If it is still in contact w/ the case, which I don't doubt, it's certainly not slamming into it nearly as hard as with tray mount.
it just rests on the screw posts, that's it
What are some of the first mods I should do
I used to just cover them with silicon
i doubt its better :3 i feel like essentially they are all like gasket, just different way of implementing it, the tadpole/gummy oring you have the options to change the stiffness unlike the cheaper kit where you are stuck with one stiffness.
but i am a faaking noob
Lube springs/switches/stabs and maybe swap plate and/or keycaps
the feeling has to be quite different
in frog mini the plate rests on tadpoles
in gummy oring cases the pcb is in contact with whatever is providing the softness
But just lube everything is good to not buy too much new stuff
Gross
well time to get one then mr arc
only 60 dolla
I hope the silicone caps will be soft enough
luminkey confirmed that they will be selling loobed's units themselves
hehe
oh yea hehe





