#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 378 of 1
just check one switch, or you crazy enough to make like 3 different sets of frankenswitches
Thats actually crazy work
👀
they sound nice in hand, and don't have issues like they had with gateron stem in there
just pop them on the same row on the board i think that would be decent enough of a test. its kinda messy actually when testing with a whole keeb since different rows produce different sound especially with tray mount :3
i am just eager rn, sry
@calm pulsar actually I know what the RAWs remind me of now, they're like an upgraded ROG NX Snow switch
ight let me do 3 switches and compare em with maxes cause they're what I have installed rn
is it an HE?
ah Ic, I have no real experience with MX really, only low profiles, but it's nice that an HE switch is better than some MX in your opinion 😄
its one of ASUS's switches for their lineup
its also box stem so you can feel the stem wobble without pressing which is cringe, but I think with different stabs/new case material, they will sound similar, but better
It'll be interesting to see when I get my keyboard, but I think some of the HE vs MX is a little overblown for sound. Some are objectively bad (looking at you TTC) and others are good enough to pass so idk
the biggest limitation is how they bottom out compared to MX
lol I always hit enter cause of split backspace
The artisan keycap also is supposed to arrive today, so Monday is lookin good 👀
got me a mix
Oreo switches
geon opener also works as a little tester
This is the only thing I can use it drives me crazy 😭
Use it with your F5 key
Instant time passer
Hi guys, for people using the tofu redux do most of y'all do the tempest tape mod or no?
No
i did it cause i was taking the keyboard apart again so might as well
Ok so for those of you who are looking at the Jade Maxes I would wait. Something is going on with just normal everyday typing. If you use normal caps and not something heavy like a metal or ceramic keycap, these things stick. They get stuck on the up and the down. It is actually really bad and noticable. It prevents modifider keys from releasing like shift and the like and just has a bad feel. YES they do sound thockier, yes their RGB is fantastic, but the step getting physically stuck is a major problem. Keep it in mind before upgrade. I suggest Jade Pros or GEON Raws. A little more poppy sound profile, little less RGB, but a MUCH better feel overall.
Tbh the sound dont really bother me. Its just that I'm changing the case soon so I was thinking if I should tape mod. I don't wanna take apart the keyboard again after changing the case thats why I'm wondering if i should just do it now or not do it.
Alright. Thanks for the input
well if you dont really care about the sound there isnt much point in doing it
Fair enough. Just wondering if its "worth" but worth is also subjective. I'm just thinking if I should do it since I'm taking apart the keyboard so I might as well. I can't decide lmao
How long did it take for it to become blatant for you
i mean its just lining up a few pieces of tape, cutting out the screw holes and thats pretty much it
i forgot which video of mine is with and without the tape mod
though i have sent it here before
found it
I think thats what putting me off. I'm a total newbie to this and I'm not sure if i can figure out where to cut the holes for the screws. Is it like really obvious?
Like just flipping it around and looking at where the screws are and thats where you make the hole?
you can do it by poking a hole with a toothpick and cut around that hole in the tape
it doesnt have to be exact, you can cut a little more around the screw hole
Nice. Tbh both sounded the same to me lmao. Are you using an aluminum case?
Hmm it sounded the same to me tbh. If thats the case i might just skip the tape mod. Dont wanna screw anything up. Thanks for your input!
i just poked through these holes in blue and eyeballed the ones in red
the top square is for the usb-c connector
any time
oh this is the 60he pcb, not the 60he+ if anyones looking & its iso
Is it about the same? Mine is probably 60he+ and its ansi
Is there like a guide on where I should poke holes if im doing the tape mod or is it actually really obvious when you do it?
yeah the screw holes are the same place
it just doesnt have screw-in stab compatibility
well if you want to be really exact, ig you can measure out where the holes are
Thankyou. I'll keep the pic for reference. I'm just scared I'm too dumb to know where to poke holes for the screw lmao
but i just used a flathead and poked through the screw mount holes, though its probably not the best idea
i mean youre really just poking holes in tape, it wont hurt to do it over
oh right and its up to you to choose if you want to use the mount in the middle and the one next to the spacebar on the right
personally, i dont use either of them
Is this where the screws are supposed to be?
theres also one more right here (in red) and the (green) is also optional
but yes, those are where the screws are supposed to be
Ohh nice. Thank you so much. Can I just remove the screws and poke something through it through the top?

Actually sounds super easy I might as well just do it. If anything goes wrong I can just blame myself for being dumb lmao. Thankyouu!
of course! just take it slow and you'll be fine
Day 2
What a tragedy
What is a Geon Max Ambassador btw?
geon better bro
I got the Maxes originally and I ordered the RAWs in case I got what you were describing, so I combined the two for the cursed name
ok. Not arguing.
Ahh you use a combo? In what regard?
youre gonna like the feeling of the raw he switches way more
I didn’t combo them, but I did it in the name for the memes
ahh
I was kinda floored by how they sounded and felt stock ngl
I didn’t like them stock in sound tests, but it’s kinda jarring
My soul is only half saved
https://youtube.com/shorts/_5fKeRp5o48?feature=share
The sound profiles here break down all but the geon
The ultimate sound test of the Wooting 80HE, featuring a head-to-head comparison between Gateron Jade, Gateron Jade Pro, Gateron Jade Max, and Lekker V2 switches. Whether you're searching for the perfect click, smooth actuation, or that ideal sound profile, this test will help you decide which switch suits your typing or gaming style best. 🎧
🔊 ...
I definitely get the ‘better Jade sound’ discourse a little better now, they’re nice
jade maxes sound best imo but i would rather use a switch that i may not prefer in terms of acoustic properties if it performs better
Idk I’m skeptical of that now
I prefer the Jade Pros
But that is just me
With the metallic keycaps the Jade Maxes have a wonderufl feel and sound but you need a 300$ keycap set with an insane weight to push past the sticky feel
After the other sound test that was posted here I wanna say the pros are also my current Jade favorite, but I’m still mad at Gateron for what they did to the maxes
Fuckin smh
I mean these things go to the factory and are often rushed. They will likely discontinue when they are out of stock.
and make the Max 2 and capitalize on that
Max Pro Super
Kinda wish I didn’t lube mine now but w/e
Yah sometimes ya gotta raw dog it.
Time for you to lube the raw to pass the time for white zinc
I'll tell ya this. As a person who customizes and builds etc, I will NEVER lube my own switches. If the switch is that bad out of factory I throw it away.
This day and age no reason to need to lube your own.
On my switch opener I didn’t get the full ‘sticky’ feel up until I tried the raws a little more, but there’s definitely something in the background
Might show more on keyboard
my shift key will literally lag on up
I think most I’ll do is the springs
it's terrible
The raw stock is kinda crazy
Good enough
I sent them an email to see if they are aware and gave them feedback, best I can do at this point./
Very true, I think you can also leave a review on the max front page
I hear the new gamer ones have the same sound profile but feel scratchy
Those are yikes
If I paid for them i would, but I do keeb reviews.
So I try to work with companies to make shit beter.
Doin the lords work 🙏🏻
I actually have an interview with Calder I am going to post it soon we talked for 4 hours.
Trying to break it down into 1 hour podcasts
That’s actually a W idea
yeah as someone who used to do podcasts on youtube, gotta be careful uploading giant long videos like that lol
it kills your channels algo because watch percentage and such are tough to get on a long podcast
When’s the next rogue guide /s
lol i get asked that sometimes still randomly
I bet just the highlights would do well as small clips/tidbits though - but 4 hours of editing down into clips would be a pain in the ass
True now to hire some kid who is way better than me at that to do it lol
Have i done the stabilizers correctly for the 80he? Im a bit stuck rn 😅
Like should this thing click anywhere?
you put that part in the pcb first and then screw it in
A guide to assemble, install, diagnose and correct common mistakes.
Includes:
Stabilizer's insert installed in the wrong orientation.
PCB mounted stabilizer's hook not in correctly.
PCB clip in screw in stabilizers installation to PCB.
Plate mounted stabilizers installation to plate.
Band aid or electrical tape on plate to squeeze plate mounted ...
you want that little tab to hook onto the pcb
1:40 it shows pcb clip ins and screw ins, its the 2nd one
@dense garden
is there any real difference in buying Lekker V2s over the RAWs besides sounding different?
I think the RAWs are supposed to have better stem wobble, but those are the main 2
yes
stem wobble
reduced travel
pole bottom out
i will likely go with the v2s just so I know my keyboard will still function as intended by wooting
I have gone through like 30 websites and I couldnt find the keyboard case I was looking for haha
I'm in pain
Ahh okay tysm
@kind helm little test before doing it in the board
on iphone mic they sound way different from irl lol
honestly the frankenswitch feels snappier in hand, similar to MX switches from gateron that they included as samples
every day our followers grow. glory to geon and all that he touches!
raws are a lot smoother
exactly, i wasted $180 USD on them i wrote a review on them on the gateron website hoping no one will buy them
the maxes defeat the purpose of an analog switch because of the PC stem and the absurd amount of friction
no amount of lube can fix it :(
You guys dont understand. this is the best of all possible worlds. if geons were any better they would choke the market and Geon in his wisdom knew he had to hold back. We are not ready for the perfect switch.
What’s the consensus on jade pros? I know geons are loved here and jade max suffer from keycaps sticking. I got mine for $55 on aliexpress using the welcome deal
hes held back by law, cant run a monopoly 
I had them before Geon RAWs. personal opinion: they are too light with their 40g. sound profile is nice, personally preferred over RAWs. the tinted top housing effs up RGB fidelity.
just break in
I've been gaming just fine on maxes
okay jade raws done, made one with max upper for capslock led
Awesome, I’ll only be gaming on them and don’t really care much for rgb so they sop us perfect for me.
These look fucking crazy I love it
well into the jail board they go
lol
jade housing raw stem?
black jade bottom
black knight top
raw stem
pingless 62.5g spring
blade jades used for frankswitching rly just a flex

no cause I had this frankenswitch before, but with gateron stem
I wanted a full black switch which is why I built it and found that BK with gateron stem is zero wobble
it was super tight, too tight in some switches, so raw stem is great in this

1st jade raws
2nd jade maxes
yeah i want them to 😭
maxes are shit
yeah the frankenswitch sounds cleaner
raws have the best tolerances from my experience, gateron has probably the worst tolerances. the undisclosed wooting v2 vendor is just behind raw he imo
@kind helm @tropic urchin did a sound test
gold grain is the "undisclosed vendor"
my guess was TTC or Geon LOL
geon's switches are made by gold grain as well
its gg
Raw HE says Geon OEM
???Geons not the manufacturer for these switches
he owns the molds
but gg makes em
raws are grain gold raptors are grain gold lekkers v2 are grain gold
How did you find this out
people have just been saying undisclosed
lekker v2’s deadass be some hejin teals/yellows
u behind
@knotty iron geon mentioned that his new switch is being made by gold grain, but he adjusts the molds
the same with raws
u saw right
yeah remember something like this
yep
is it grain gold or gold grain
Redragon 👀
@stone flax do you think wooting still hasn't made their own closed bottom switch cause gateron and gg own these designs?
or maybe wooting just prefers cream thock
…no
raws better
🤭
I think majority of people buying probably prefer the "thocky" sound over clack so it was probably the right move imo
i prefer the raws for their shorter travel
Well it looks like my maxes are going to be saved just for the top housing to be made into a frankenswitch at a later date
o7
I cant unhear the plastic sound now 😦
I'm sure biased for closed bottom, but I feel like it would've been great to include an option that feels way different, esp since wooting is known for being very customizable
hehe
I wonder if I can replace jade bottom to jade pro bottom for even better tolerances
that is if the jade pro bottom is any different from normal jades
I think i probably would've been alot happier with the Jade Pros if they didnt do that stupid colored housing
I think the module serves this purpose pretty well
sure, I just meant as an option on the store, not prebuilt boards
for a small price of $1 per switch you can install jade max housing on jade pros for clear rgb
like the jades and raw hes being added 
that true, raws being sold is based
Now you have to change your name to the Gateron RAW ambassador
"Arcsyko ........."
their switches would be... raws, black knights etc xd
new keycaps 🙏🏽
These look like the extra ones you get with Cerakey
is the 1st one max tops or knight tops
the first one is this, the second fully stock maxes
yeah somehow black knight upper seems very tight when you use non boxed stems on it
so sounds quite clean
what is the receipt for the jade raw :3
normal jade bottom
black knight top
raw stem
maybe jade pro bottom also works, not sure
but my jade pros are on the way
60g pingless long/dual stage spring when

jade max topping out sounds weird
this
I feel like the lube makes these sticky sounds between the dual rails lol
😭 imagine if they just improve the quality, the deeper sound would be nice to compensate with fr4
I just tried to lube the RAWs out of curiosity and I feel like it does nothing
hehe cause tolerances are very good and the stock lube job as well
Makes me a little sad, but pretty happy
that I dont gotta go thru too much torment for them
wait
do u have a picture of the plate?
this is a tsangan frog plate right
iirc
yeah its the alu venom 7u plate
dudeeee
ive been hunting this down
for so long
@_@ on taobao
what hardness tadpoles
?
i wonder if the max just needs some time to break in, kinda even out the lube in there maybe help with the stickiness
yeah I just got some guy to buy both fr4 and alu from geon's korean store, along with the 50a tadpoles
50a
I will just get it one sec
well you're from a 1st world country lul there must be some services
plates: https://smartstore.naver.com/geonlab/products/10810509637
tadpoles: https://smartstore.naver.com/geonlab/products/5745478501
👀 why buy from there after they made gmmk pro. i wont trust them to know what they are doing. "is it even possible to make switches that only work for one keyboard" have you heard of wooting when it just came out
I just kinda went to a russian version of cragslist, I guess that would be an equivalent
and just found a guy who studies there and does mail forwarding
thanks a lot
ill ask for options
@calm pulsar oooh this is nice, if you lube the springs pretty well it has a little more marbly sound
Maxes are officially cooked
yeah lubing the springs clears up the sound nicely
Geon be praised
what have you done!
lol it happens usually, I just refresh the page or disable vpn
@tropic urchin wait are you planning to do what exactly with maxes upper housings?
at a later date try to get the RAW stem + max housing + insert w/e jade bottom i can find, frankenswitch is still early in development for me for prio
whatever you did for this one
ah okay, I asked cause maxes don't fit with raw bottom housing
like you have to press it REALLY hard for it to "fit" loosely
Yeah I remember this
New Cable arrives today
makes me sad bc the RAW stem is actually really nice
sexy
you could probably get whatever jades you can find except for maxes and use their bottom
but you could also just use pure raws, cause their rgb is also very good
Yeah thats what I was planning on doing at some point. So far the RAWs are winning the power struggle
Guys question if I want da best possible sound hand lube springs or use a bag
Probably by hand if you got time to kill
you can control how much you distribute
bag seems to be purely for efficiency
well its for domestic shipping, courier service
And HOW DO I LUBE GPL 105s ON SPRINGS I DONT WANNA OVERLUBE BUT THEY ARE JUST FLOWING EVERY PART OF THE SPRING ITS TOO MUCH
bag lube lol
if by hand use 205
for springs I only do like top and bottom, 105s you're on your own
haven't lube a he switch yet, but i used to just put a drop of lube(205 equivalent) on the top of the spring and give it a few tap after i put back the top housing
My dream frankenswitch is the RAW Stem, Max upper housing + Max spring and cheap Jade bottoms
Waiting for the cosmos is gonna feel like an eternity
@polar girder
Heheh…. (Time to suffer for 4 hours and lube some switches thank god I only have to do this once per keyboard)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYZs8rHooPo worked for me and i lubed a few different sets of switches
yeah I think normal jades are discounted on aliexpress
reason #1 id never be part of a group buy/preorder, i can barely wait a week for my monitor
once whenever my annoyance with gateron ends ill prob try the idea
im still mad they got me to buy the maxes
Literally though the wait is gonna suck, and I have like 3 artisans on the way to
Only springs isnt too bad, but opening the RAW is like trying to crack open a coconut
my frankenswitch
Raw stem, jade max upper housing and jade black bottoms
is what i believe he used
its a monstrosity, but it sounds nice
Hey guys, i got a 60HE+ module and holy60 case. Really need some suggestions on modding here. 1. Jade Pro vs. geon raws. Any other things i should includes in my list? Like a fr4 plate and black knights stabs?
yeah black jades are just normal jades recolor btw
Sound test?
Chaos
I think he did if you scroll up a few hrs
lol yeah better to just forget about it
just get the raw, pc included in module is typically preferred over fr4, no need to get new stabs as apparently the stock ones are decent
👀 i think the name of this modding channel really should be "just get the raw" at least at the moment
Alright thanks buddy, and would that be the best solution? cuz im tryna maxmize the performance w/o considering the budget here
you get pretty much the exact same performance as a stock wooting, all the mods are more for sound and feel rather than performance
Sorry but jade maxes sound better for me
Foam acquired
so you like the second vid?
Ye
didnt you post this pic a couple of days ago
@calm pulsar how much did the shipping for venom costed you? and if i remember correctly you in us east right?
👀 sry if i am wrong i talked to way too many people in discord
Ye but different channel :/
Then deleted it like I think yesterday cuz just realised
no im from Russia 😄
it was a small commission + shipping, not that much over the order price
it wasn't a service like you linked, it was just a guy doing mail forwarding, as if you simply ask a friend to buy it and send it to you
so not sure how much that would be for you
probably not that much
i feel like if i ship it to us it may cost similar or more than wooting module
well if you order venom + plate, their base cost is way cheaper
don't you have a wooting already though?
👀 i have 2 cases
and 7U is superior
That Leo Clacks video was a really good test
of course you do

@calm pulsar is any type of plate included 0.0 ?
you buy pcb and plate separately, there are 2 types of plates, for frog mini and for other tray mount / gummy mount cases
GH60 fr4 plate sold out😭
oh rip
but thanks for the link man, i gonna look at it maybe beginning of nov and see if they restock :3 (maybe they starting selling it on us vendors like novelkey or divinikey by then)
yeah venom 60 will for sure be selling internationally, so maybe you can just wait a bit and avoid the hassle
from the description of the website it doesn't look that bad, essentially all the korea side is handled through them. i am basically placing the order in a slightly different way through their website.
i searched online a bit, apparently buying from korea is a thing for kpop merch
LOL
korean car parts are also very popular, at least here lol
stock geon raws with alu plate on salvation no plate/case foam
needs plate foam yall think?
in the process of lubing switches as we speak
i tried fr4 plate, fr4 plate with poron, pc plate. i personally like pc plate more with geon raw
in the recording, the poron kinda just filter that high pitch, but just me hearing directly from the keeb, i kinda feel like its a bit less lively for lack of a better word
foamy :3
think you should just give it a try later, its not that hard to add foam since pcb is not holding on the switches
i agree foam does make it muted but im more worried about the alu plate and alu case resonance tbh
i just need to use these pingless springs after i lube and go from there
i run raws on alu plate with no foam at all
i dont hear much resonance
although im using a tofu redux
what kinds of knight stabs should a 60HE+ take? Like there are standard and long pole, plus standard 2U kit.
standard for regular 4.0mm travel switches and long pole for 3.7mm and under
@calm pulsar low key I think trying to open the RAWs is worse than the max keycap issue, this is mad annoying
haha
sometimes if you wobble the switch on the opener it opens like usual
It gets everything to 50% so then I have to take a thumbtack as suggested by Frijoles
some are 5 secs, some are 5 mins jesus
I just use my thumbs
you got them 150g fingers
nah after you open it half way it is easy to pry em open from corners
just requires a nail oh cool
Changing switches in wooting80he and greased stabilisers and lubed switches, i got 3 left over silver screws lol
hey guys anyone got recommendations for ISO keycaps witz some red accents?
i dont think thats supposed to happen chief
You made a mistake
As a car mechanic that would be something to worry about
Its to late to go back
But its just a keyboard
Im committing
Nah its just a keyboard
Gonna plug it in rn
You’ll be fine
Send me it first before that 👍
Jkjk
I cant wait for mine
Im literally almost dying
The longer i wait the more unstable i get
bros tweakin
Just a little
Are you not tweakin?
u got a ss of wootility (rgb)?
uncropped
nah rgb
checked the plate?
The thing that tells me about the 80he?
maybe its for plate standoffs
All screws were in there, so idk where else they could go
emm even if something loose, the led will light as normal. i have seen some people in community say that their led on 80he may not light on certain keys...
Do u know a fix? @jade narwhal
no. you can post it in https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1019755933959733258
what is a good hobby syringe for injecting 205g0 or grease for stabs
which stabs?
cause some are recommended to be lubed with thicker grease
Should I be buying long pole stabs for jade pros? Or will the stock stabs work fine
honestly depends on the quality of ur keycaps
maybe try it out with default first
Anyone know whats wrong with my newly installed stabs?
It’s AP Stabilizer TKL Set (1.6mm PCB Mount) (Clip-In) on Gateron jades
I’ve got a set of gmk dualshot 2s waiting for my 80he
the lube?
ur good then
use default
Is it because there’s no lube?
Okay
when will wooting discord stop fighting a losing battle against stabs installation
gods hardest test
A guide to assemble, install, diagnose and correct common mistakes.
Includes:
Stabilizer's insert installed in the wrong orientation.
PCB mounted stabilizer's hook not in correctly.
PCB clip in screw in stabilizers installation to PCB.
Plate mounted stabilizers installation to plate.
Band aid or electrical tape on plate to squeeze plate mounted ...
@trim bolt
Thank you
fr
everything just goes wrong with the stabs 
Yeah pretty sure its the lube. I installed mine correctly, lube is coming tomorrow
Using a USB extension can cause performance issues on the 60he?
yes, you want it ideally to be under 2 meters long
we are gods creamiest warriors
My main cable measures 1 meter and I plan to use an extension that is another meter long, do you think it will cause problems even then?
as long as the 2nd cable can also support the power draw of the wooting, it should be fine but might cause issue when using tachyon mode
whoever told me to get the RAW HE switches...thank you. they feel so good.
Glory to geon and all that he touches!
WS v3.1 1.6mm
so true
i am a gd player that recommends Raw HE switches
they are perfect
not sure if they have tight tolerances like knights for example, maybe some thicker grease is advised for these on stab wires
Drop doesnt sell clone keycaps right?
drop? 50$?
blocknet?
ahh lol gotcha
thats fire
it is
for the alphas, nums, and what not without the modifiers they're $49
I wouldnt mind lowkey
"Kobe" is the same thing but in Jap
Honestly get the Gaijin or the Kobe for $49 and the bars (modifier caps in neon red) for $5 and you're set
60-65% specifically i think
$55 for gmk that you can slap on a compact board kinda lit ngl i'd take, i fw with the color way of this set a well lol
raws looking milky white in this pic interesting
bottom housings kinda are beige or milky, and the stem is white
how's the franken switches so far
I'm losing my mind with my board even though it sounds decent
stabilizers are pointing a gun at my head rn
i like the legends they are so clean and basic 
top left helvetica my favourite
i mean it's gmk 
being lubed
colors smak doe
pls donate some

right now it's
jade bottom (black jades in this case)
black knight top
raw stem
geon pingless 62.5g spring
makes sense
I will try jade pro parts when they arrive to see if they fit and improve anything
but black switch looks great
any tolerance issue?
like inconsistency issue with them being too tight like last time?
there was with the gateron stem, but with raw stem it is fixed
but doesn't seem to sacrifice the tighter tolerance yeah?
i assume no issues with friction because of the stems using POM (assumed)
they sound quite clean so I'd say it is just as good as raws in terms of tolerances, but the sound signature is closer to jades rather than raws
ic
do you prefer the 80he over the 60he?
I will redo my build with these later, fix my stabs and force break and it might become my latest best build
Usually at these times i would do more configuration tests to see what i can do with the raws but idk i lack the motiviation lmfao
need to make my board sound a tiny bit fuller or stronger
tbf all this time I've been running at least some kinda plate foam, but after mj asked me to do a venom build with the alu plate, I really liked zero foams
it sounds lively and full now
so maybe that's something to try
ah yes the magic of alu plate
running cf plate 
it's just a bright sounding plate
personally for what I do yes
arrow keys are a must for me and the ergonomics work better for me (better typing angle and front height, stiff gasket doesnt feel like im bottoming out on a table while being sturdy enough for gaming)
80HE is pretty much my endgame
yeah it is probably nice with friction mount
I never tried the cf plate that I have
cause now I only have alu and fr4 for the frog
i got quite unlucky with my stabs ngl
esp the fact im running plate mount
you got TX AP long poles right?
the fact that you can take out plate mounts without disassembling the whole boards is so insane
that's true
I got pretty unfortunate with my stabs not fitting into the plate that well
or tightly
but im guessing it's for the pcb mounted stabs
so is it fine currently? or some stabs are too tight
loose actually
oh, could be a tolerance issue on kbdfans end
Frijoles said that his plate mounts fit great or tightly on his board when he had it before it was sent out to me
so idrk what the problem is with mine
all of them are lifted like in the first picture
maybe you took em out so much that they are worn out lul
that'd be unfortunate and would also make sense
if that was the problem then ig i wouldnt mind getting another set at some point
Or just say fk it and buy the module
(not happening)
damn I have so many plates that I don't use, maybe I can actually figure out if I can ship em out to you, cause there are companies that do that and I even received my frog from US
I also got some cmmk v3 plate mount stabs
i forgot those stabs existed lmfao
i remember everyone using it back then or saying they were the goat
I got alu, fr4, pc, pom, cf
gah damn
normal wooting plate files?
like the ones from kbd and smkeyboards?
yeah all compatible with wooting
Alu (black) and CF are kbdfans
transparent PC, POM (black) and FR4 (full black without gold accents) are from some aliexpress store
fr4 and pom I personally used
good picks
https://kbdfans.com/collections/plate/products/tofu60-redux-plate is this the ghost pc plate you got from kbd
Specs Material: PC/ Aluminum Black Compatible with Tofu redux case/461E case/Holy60 case Compatible with redux 60 RGB ANSI PCB Compatible with both PCB mount stabilizers and plate mount stabilizers Disclaimer: This plate is NOT compatible with durock screw-in stabilizers
if that one works so should the alu one i assume
no but I got the black alu from this page
oh shiii
oh wait righttt everything came back to me
it is a really nice quality plate, nicely anodized
i forgot you said smth like when you get the raws you will install them into the alu plate
fr
haha and then I went insane and ordered the frog and decided not to do anything with the freebird60 anymore
moni well spent
heh
yeah I will do some research on how to ship a package to US and if you could cover shipping I could send you a ton of things I don't need
if you want ofc 😄
haha yeah it would depend, but am curious on the shipping costs
from there to here
okay when I'm done with this deadline I got programming school, I will look into it and let you know if the shipping cost is sensible
alright
just finish my hw for ap comp sci
my brain is fried
oh nice
we only have such subjects in colleges or unis, nothing like that in middle or high school
gn gn
All owners of cerakeys, have any of you tried a 120g or 150g for spacebar? 🙂
There was 120/150g springs ?
on ali express yes
Interesting info
does the RAW HE needs to be lubed?
naa im getting too old to hand lube now
thankfully raws are very nice stock
so what switches crystalized to be the go to for the 80HE?
Hey everyone! Since the Wooting 80HE is finally in people's hands, I thought it would be helpful to showcase a sound test of some of the most popular Hall Effect switches so you can find the perfect match for your preferred sound and feel!
In this video, we’ll be testing:
Lekker Switches (V2)
Black Knight Switches
TTC King of Magnetic Switch
O...
Raw he is still king
Was quite a nice video to show comparison
I do not like their sound sadly
if you like sticky keys get the Jade Maxs lol
they sound great but have an inherent design flaw
but what makes them "stick"?
I never cared for the sound, only the feel as I type.
either bad QC or design flaw, they use a new dual rail system in the Maxs
Yeah that’s why saying one is better is a bit bonkers since it’s mostly all preference
performance > sound
What is a friction mount? Is it when there's rubber underneath the PCB without using any screws?
outside of maxes, all switches perform the same pretty much
well yeah, but at some level its also pretty bad if they do not have a sound you can endure to hear all day
not to mention lube is a thing so nothing should scratch in the end and after that its just travel and weight of the spring that matters for feel
Yeah, even being deaf with hearing implant. I still can feel a sharp sound from my fingers
Technically yes, but switching from 4.0 to the raw 3.4 travel distance was an improvement
plus the stability
And that's lekker L60 v1.5
agreed
well but I will just stick with the v2 L60s for now (well its not arrived yet). What about Stabs?
It was acceptable to lose out 0.6mm of travel ?
for me in an FPS its an improvement
feels like its a tighter control
well it depends if you are a bottom out kinda guy or not
some people do not bottom out their keys which I think is very creepy
Gotcha, since I have lekker l60, I probably can mix and match with raw he in my keyboard
I type like I type on a typewriter lol
I don't believe I have met anyone not bottom out keys, some might be softer during bottoms outs though
And I already want to put 100g springs on it
But typing anything over 60WPM would require some sort of bottom out
??
or just like the feel
it's more like physical realization of bottoming out is earlier, but actuation is immediate on an HE board
if I press a key and it bottoms at 3.4 instead of 4. physically its a shorter distance
yes
Being able to bottom out earlier lets your finger recoil away from the key from inertia
but the key responds way earlier
that equals faster speed in game
I prefer reduced travel switches
wha
less bottom out time
Hall effect switches are already extremely snappy, the reduced distance helps
the less travel distance means literally the key needs to travel less to bottom out
therefore
if I am pressing keys to bottom out, it is quicker to actuate a 3.4 than a 4.0
fair?
yes it does mean that. less way means less way here we go. It does not change the fact that the key actually digitally actuates WAAAAAY before bottom out
im not talking about digital
well yes so do I
so if you are bottoming out, is it not faster to bottom out 3.4 than 4?
it is. Changes nothing to your gameplay tho
it changes my reaction time
no
Actually, I use rapid trigger for a game I am playing, so I often spam spacebar and wasd
the feel does affect how you react to the keyboard
only if the actuation happens at max travel distance.
yup
yes this is my point since I tend to bottom out the key
@dapper obsidian weren't you just talking about how it's weird that some people don't bottom out keys lol? your argument looks like no one bottoms out ever and only moves their key 0.1mm to actuate
mate you pressing the key on the bottom and the key giving signal
is a difference
of miles
no it doesnt look like I do that.
There are times where im moving the keys ever so slightly and I agree with you
zero diff
but when fully actuating, its simply faster
human perception changes slightly if you bottom out earlier than usual, so there's that
human perception and things being as they are should not really be compared now tho
Friction mount pad is the sandwich pad, but it sticks out a bit. So the 60HE module will be sitting in the case just by friction, and not screwed in like tray-mounting. Which gives like a gasketish feel and sound.
technically you are both correct. if you have set your actuation to max travel distance, the shorter travel distance wouldbe a faster actuation. if you have your actuation anywhere lower than the lowest travel distance, the travel distance itself doesnt matter for actuation anymore.
Hi! 
yeah and if you would set that up, you could've saved alot of money and get a membrane
Ayooo!
I dont know why you would set your actuation only on bottom out when pressing sequence matters to you but hey, its valid.
Not a fan of the regular Jades?
Some Keys are DKS
only activate when full pressed
pretty sure for most people, "regular" actuation feels fine somewhere around the 2mm mark while the rest would go for shorter actuation in gaming
all my keys are 0.1 tacyon mode 0.15 etc etc
you can change that if you want to.
fair but that is a specific use case then
specific use case
and even with HE, i still fully press... ngl
I do not own any HE switches as of now. I do have some Jade Pro samples laying around here but that 4 pieces. I just come from regular custom boards and therefore I am looking for a combination that worked for people. So Switches and well Stabs. Heard stock stabs are fine but there is always more than fine available 😄
maybe strafing im hovering
True, the case angle is in play for this ?
since its a HE you can also bottom out, let go for 50% and press in again
basically does the same
again: thats what they are there for
Wait, you dont own an HE keyboard and are trying to teach me?
I really like the regular jades personally!
but I’m on the 60HE I might end up getting some Black Knights though to go for an all black look whenever my cosmos get here next year 
perhaps
Bru, i have 3 wootings
not owning one and knowing about stuff is a difference
The way I think that in order to rest my fingers on my keyboard, I either have put stronger springs on it or extend the distance before the key triggers.
you can also have 10 Ferraris and not know how to drive
what kinda point is that
well in this case I drive the ferraris
but bad
and boy are they great
case mods, hand lubed switches, tx stabs,
been through many switches
so I know how they feel
but not how they work. And that is fine
I even had 160 jade maxs returned
I just hope you do know now that the travel distance is not relevant in HE boards
I know how they work, your IQ needs to be 80 not to understand the basics
this is not new tech
aslong as you use the board like a HE board that is
yes its fully custom
you can set to what you want
I know all that
soo you would not bottom out on an HE board or smth?
Ofc I would
doesnt change the fact that it does not change anything if you bottom out for 3.4 or 4mm of travel as the actual input is sperate from your finger travel in the end
(well giving you actually met the set actuation point ofc)
it takes a bit less time to top out from 3.4mm
if you have a habit of bottom out the switch even if your set distance is 0.1 it will take less time to actuate the 3.4 than the 4
what do you mean top out?
I think a negative case angle would make hovering keys a lot easier. so I think you’re right in that case angle does play a role
I would think that is minimal tho
I think for 3.4 ur just at the bottom for longer
cos the force u use is the same
well just like actuation at 0.1mm vs 2mm, but here we are minmaxing as true gamers
stem physically returning back when you let go of the key
what?
No it literally doesnt
Ah, I don't know a such kb case with negative angle for a 60HE
Jades superior because pretty colors 
the time it takes for your finger to travel from the bottom to the top is 0.6 shorter than the 4
could be the case, but maybe in time you adjust a bit to the shorter travel and become overall snappier
am I taking crazy pills?
negative angle cases are very rare but are more ergonomic than positive angle cases
ya most likely
100%
Very rare.... 😔
The whole range has 40 steps with a 4.0mm switch. Each step is 0.1mm.
With a 3.4mm switch, you divide that by 40 steps. So each step is less then 0.1mm, and thus it activates faster.
just mount ur 60HE upside down 🥸🗿
it's quite minimal tho to the point that I wouldn't considering the performance of it
Booooooooooooom!
backwards compatible 
another win for the closed bottom gang
This topic blew up so hard even a wooting team has come down here to settle it
So the 0.1mm in Wootility is in reality 0.085mm on a 3.4mm switch.
@dapper obsidian are you reading
I am reading
I mean I get the confusion
oh ya sander what happened to all the old yt series
like judging setups and all that
We still want to update wootility that you can select your range of mm. So it actually accurately represents it.
but couldnt you do more than 40 steps for 4mm? I mean sounds like a software limitation rather than a hardware one
tbf we're all aware of the differences between actuation and travel distance, but initially asdasmos was just talking abt what he appreciates in geon raw he switches lol
probably ya
Calder moved to Taiwan, so we don't have a physical place to record these things anymore. Tbh it is more fun and organic to film it irl then through webcam and online.
To add to this, if you never actuate a 4mm switch further than 3.5mm or so, the same applies. The moment you go beyond 3.5mm, calibration during use activates and it’ll behave normally.
I mean sure. I also like 3.4mm travel dont get me wrong. ^^

tru tho
But in reality, the 0.085 vs 0.1mm is like barely noticable anyway lol
yesnt due to the HE sensor response curve its easier/harder to detect certain step sizes throughout parts of the key press. HE sensors arent linear is the main issue
Let me just say. Not noticeable for my pleb brain
noticeable definitely not but it does add up.
Ah, I was wondering whatever hall-effect sensors are linear or not. Seems not
you can correct for it if you wanted actual 0.1mm increments though
my brain is less powerful than a hall effect pcb
well they cant be cause magnetic fields arent linear
Because that's not the sensor fault but magnet strength if I remember right
ya just how magnets work
smth smth tightly coupled systems
bottom out is easier than top
well yes magnets do have ranges. But since they are recognised if they are at 0 or .1mm it cant be that 😄
Is there a max magnet strnegth the sensors can endure?
It is
It does!
Because, past a certain strength, the sensor is saturated and wont read more changes.
So if you would make stronger magnets, couldnt it be beneficial in detecting changes in magnetic fields?
every tweak I make will add up in the end
theres a max strength it can detect but it wont break
no
youd just shorten the detectable range basically
its like placing the magnet closer
yeah well true, if you end up getting over the threshhold it obviously doesnt work anymore ^^
so basically the magnets are currently in their strongest self ?
yes
There grades of magnets like N45 to N52
they are specifically chosen to work well with the sensors
are Jade Pro magnets stronger to compensate for the closed butt?

plastic doesnt do anything to magnetic fields
Jades’ are so I’d assume Jade Pros are as well.
perhaps Gateron wanted the bottom out strength to be the same as that of their 4mm switches?
yeah I get that but I was also kinda thinking that they would use a stronger magnet to kinda make up for the actual distance lost at the bottom
but I guess its also quite useless to have that as well...its an HE switch and if it goes back up its not activated anymore so whatever
i mean if they do thatll just mess with how most boards calculate the press depth
I believe the pcb calibrates and adjusts for reduced travel
yes
usually youd just change the linerization curve and set a new max distance of 3.4mm
or whatever the switch max travel is
The board goes with a calibration upon power up ?
an initial calibration of the 0 point. the bottom out is constantly recalibrated during use
so it learns?
idk if id call it learning
Like "why on earth does he preciseley stop here for some damn reason"
I doubt it learns lol
well yes its just to understand it more easily
ofc its not intelligent
visual thinking ya know
Sample size of 5 for everything with the new KS-20s as the baseline. It could be that the five Jades I grabbed are extremely out of spec but it’d be very coincidental.
KS-20T are Jades.
you gotta love Gateron Names
Venom60HE software has this page where you can measure travel distance of each switch and trigger a recalibration
but otherwise it just constantly "remembers bottom out distance"
Not any outliers being thrown out when calculating this ?
you can see how I pressed win shift S to do a screenshot lul
most useful shortcut next to copy, paste and close window
One moment.
but I mean ctrl, alt, windows, shift + W, P, and L is also funny
I also love win + V to choose what to paste from some things stored in the buffer previously
These were the raw values before I took the average
you could say two of them are outliers but not by a whole lot.
tolerances
plays a role as well.
Ah, good enough because while there outliers, they are part of manufacturing and now into a product
both the physical tolerances and magnet tolerances.
but I gotta say considering how wild switch prices are on HE Switches tolerances are damn shite
but well...springs are such a weird thing the way they are manufactured makes crazy tolerances quite hard
imagine the waste
In theory, this is possible to make switch cases out of mu metal and have great tolerences with EDM wire cutting but that's fucking expensive !
do you guys think it’s safe magnet-wise to leave stems all together like this?
I got lazy and want to finish lubing em all later 
forbidden mozzarella bowl
from my understanding, it’ll take a really long time for this to affect the magnet strengths.
Heat will affect magnets which is also bad for the plastic lol
Otherwise, good luck killing these magnets
it’ll probably be about the same as Gateron and TTC’s current pricing 🤣🤣🤣
okay thanks, I will finish lubing my jade raw knight pro maxes later
LMFAO
no just lubing
If they manage to make them using mu metal at this price, I would buy these because mu metal is also expensive lol.
has a full metal switch ever been tried?
atleast the keycaps will go on quite easily
no I just put them together lol, im not submering them in lube xd
I know metal plated switches but not full metal ones
Not far as I know
the clack would be
with alu keycaps
in a metal case
would be sick if someone tried
@loud gull would you happen to also know if there will ever be a gasket mounted variant for the 60HE?
"Magnetic switch" and it‘s just a cast iron switch
Or keyboard that constantly sounds like a M1 Garand ping
on my search to a full metal switch I found "heavy metal keyboards" got greeted by a bright yellow board
not too heavy metal
There is a product on the way that will let you friction mount the 60
Well, nobody knows yet what mounting the 60HE Pro will have.. 🤔
No gasket pland revealed yet
Yes
needs metal bars as gaskets
Huh, what else they are working on ?
springs
surely
I just said that above
Is the gasket mount on the 80HE stiff? Or does it feel noticably softer than a 60HE would?
As I know from a video, the 60HE module is stiff with all pieces screwed in together
It is quite firm
it's stiff
I see, I feel like due to the hall effect switches, it'll always need to be stiff to prevent accidental presses
I am actually wondering if the Full Size board will see an upgrade/custom case at some point
Even with the gasket mount
gaskets move the pcb and the switches
it doesnt cause accidental presses
so it should not cause issues
If the same gasket material and design is used in a 60HE, then it’d feel slightly stiffer as a 60% flexes a bit less than 80%
Yeah flex is bad for Hall effect switches
Correct, but from the sounds of it, it doesn't cause those accidental presses due to being a stiff gasket mount
how
Some custom keyboards have an large amount of flex but this may not be achievable on hall effect PCB's
flex is bad if the distance between magnet and sensor is altered.
I mean it's not like your switches move in relation to the pcb when the board flexes, usually your whole assembly moves
it’s not as bad as people make it seem though.
yeah
i'm not getting any actuations when my pcb-plate assembly moves around in my frog mini case, so there must be something really wrong with your build for it to cause accidental presses 😄
in practice, even plateless, flex didn’t cause an issue for me.
Not exactly, when the plate flexes it causes the PCB to also flex which can cause those accidental key presses. Even with wooting's gasket mounted 80HE, it seems it won't achieve a super flexible design due to those hall effect switches relying on the PCB to actuate
Same here, stiff feeling board
The stand offs help reduce the flex
I just use my custom board for working and stuff and the wooting for gaming only
You might be able to shave them off but you'll likely experience issues with the way the board functions
Nice! I main my wooting entirely so this includes productive tasks as well
the switch stem doesnt move in relation to the sensors even when the plate flexes
The wooting can be a nice main board
I just already have other boards that feel much better to use
But none of my other boards can compete with the wooting for gaming obviously
Sounds about right, maybe there is a way to obtain more flex without actutation issues
I like how the salvation case uses those leaf springs, it's a good way to avoid the PCB flexing but maintaining a softer typing feel
Hey should I use the bottom right standoff when installing in the tofu redux with the pc plate?
Will the introduced flex of not using it mess with the actuation curve?
it will not mess with actuation and the sound will be a bit more even on the alphas
Should I go with the stock white screws of the ones that comes with the case and how tight?
When I tighten the screw by the usbc port all the way down it shifts out of alignment is that normal? Is it okay to leave that one slightly untightened?
either work, the case screws might be longer which is good for burger mounting, but when I did my first build I used the white ones
which case you've got?
Tofu 60 redux
I mean it would be best if usb port is aligned perfectly to avoid damaging it with the cable


