#đ§âkeyboard_modding
1 messages ¡ Page 201 of 1
idk if i am doing it wrong
but the rubber band keeps falling off the screw head
or damaging the rubber band
that's fine, you're just trying to create enough friction/torque to untwist the screw
Btw whatâs that supposed to do
You have a metal nail file?
Nah
Was just gonna say to file a slit into the screw head to make it a flat head and then unscrew it with a flat head
Do I still do the rubber band method?
Or what is the next step
If you file a slit into it, no
So what do I do now?
If you filed a slit, try using a flat head screwdriver
Sorry what I meant was I don't have a metal nail file
Wait
Acutally
Does this count?
Yeah, just try not to scratch the PCB
Before I do something stupid, I'm using the lines from metal nail file on top of the screw head?
Youâre trying to make a line in it so you can use a flat head screw driver since you stripped it
My other idea was hot glue gun or super glue and sticking the screw driver in there and letting it dry and then slowly twisting it to unscrew
You could also try screwing in a screw from the other side
Just donât strip that one too
Is this possible?
I said you could try lol, I didnât say if it was possible or not
i want to make them heavier the standard spring weight is too light for me
hot glue probably wouldnt work unless the screw is super loose
but yeah if anyone has any experience w spring swapping the og lekkers the wooting came w please hmu
im tryna go for a heavier spring
since i daily drive boba u4ts on my custom
With how bad itâs stripped, possibly not
I have been doing method for 5 minutes, I donât think I have made a single damage to the screw head.
Just keep going 
Or take pliers and try it
But donât scratch the plate
hey (hope you dont mind ping)
thankyou for the help yesterday
since you also have a custom plate im curious as to what material you got it in,
also by any chance, you have other recommendations other than the KS20 dual rail switch? or as far as tolerance goes those are the best?
Hey all
I want to make the Two He thock
how do i go on about doing that? (very new to keyboards)
soooo, i had a stripped screw on my original 60HE, and i wanted to swap it to Tofu. i literally destroyed my whole plastic case to get it out haha
Is it worth to go for stabs over these compared to the default ones from the 60 module
unless you are having issues with the stock stabs, i would just use those
i would try the stock ones first, since theyre already installed anyways. and if you dont like it, then you can always change it later
yes, it actually lines up perfectly
An update for the the stuck screw. Man I been doing this for god knows of how long and I only manage to make a little scratch. Unless the quality of my metal nail file is bad or the screw is very tough. And still haven't manage to get it out. đ
sooo, are you planning to case swap?
or just wanting to change something
cause there is always the option of destroying the plastic case, but i wouldnt say its the best move
Well I lubed the space stabs and then midway through when putting back the space stabs to the pcb. I realise it was put in the wrong way. I tried unscrewing one and it worked and the second one whelp it is stuck.
I wish it was that easy.
aah, thats a bit tricky
euhm, well time to case swap
Alumaze case, Pc plate swap, lekker60/geon raptor frankenswitched,tape modded 3 layers double pbt keycaps
is this tape modded
ah it sounded like it lol
has anyone used these WS Dash HE switches? They look like they're made by Gateron, but I wasn't able to find any reviews https://shop.wuquestudio.com/collections/switches-in-stock/products/ws-dash-he-switch-70pcs
1 Quantity = 70 pcs WS Dash HE Switch  WS Dash HE Switch Specifications Switch type: Linear Switch Top Housing Material: PC Bottom Housing Material: PA Stem: POM Total travel distance: 3.50¹0.2mm Trigger stroke can be freely defined Preload: 30¹10gf Bottom Out Force: 55¹10gf Spring Type:L=15mm/Single Stage Lifespan: 1
they're apparently just jades
with a different colour stem
Anyone tried cablemod cables with wootings?
They will work if the cable is rated for USB 2.0
So I believe they will
Yes they work
I was just doing mine đ
How mong did it take damn that must suck
Long
đł dayumm im halfway there been an hour
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myoQq1M6rWQ
Might need to get hold of a craftsman who can help drill it out.
Follow along with our Tech Team member Kurt as he walks you through multiple ways to remove a broken screw.
Check out our âSolutionsâ page for more articles and videos
METHOD 1: USE A CENTER DRILL TO EXTRACT A BROKEN SCREW
Utilizing a center drill (also known as a combination drill & countersink) to remove a br...
Hey
Is it possible to replace the keys on the uwuting
With a ctrl key
Just one
Cuz I have specific use for it
That would be better like that
@harsh dove have u tried the everglide sticky rices
No they suck
oh really LOL
Waste of money
whatâs bad abt them
â ď¸
.
I should of been more specific
But
Is there a ctrl key that would fit on uwuting
You mean the keycaps?
Yeah
Should be
How would I approach doing that
And where should look for one
Just take the keycaps off and see if you have one that fits
Oh well I thought you had extras laying around
where can i toggle a key in which app i saw the video from it
Nop
Atleast not ones that feel good
holy cow
show me that width perfection
No ks-20u?
he doesn't stock ks20u so no?
Quick update for these. I spoke to the owner of milktooth yesterday and I have a new batch of the sticky rice switches coming that may be improved from the first batch and will be testing them with a new firmware that's been in the works for the last few weeks. I should have an update for you guys next week.
As of now, please avoid them
Thanks for the update boss
Wait what
i thought they sounded the least rattle from listening
or weird top out noise HE has atm
but he also was on his pinginator 4000 alumaze and desk setup so probably inaccurate assumption
I canât remember exactly but I thought they sucked
lol
Yippeee
Cablemod rum rasin cable coming in

Now I need a purple or green wristrest to finish it off

@harsh dove so what I ended up doing is just not doing the friction mount because it felt kinda shitty, idk if it's the oring or if i'm just bad at putting the kb in the case it just would never be good, either one of the keys on the edge would get stuck in the oring or there would be a very metallic shitty sound that I don't like at all.
so i just removed all the screws from my alumaze except the two on the side that i barely screwed in and now the board sounds way better and feels less stiff so i take that as a win (: (i kept the plate silicone and the foam at the bottom of the case cause it sounds better like that imo)
Maybe the case is too tight?
The Wooting case was much tighter than the tofu for me
yeah most likely
but idm the setup i did now feels amazing
As long as youâre happy with it thatâs all that matters, although did you check and see if the oring is shifting above the plate when inserting it into the case instead of staying between the plate and PCB ?
Sometimes when pushing it down, the oring can slip out from under the plate and end up above the plate
Causing the unevenness
Yeah that's basically what happened everytime i tried so I kinda gave up to be honest
i couldnt figure out a way to make everything fit nicely
Ah okay, did you try using a credit card or something to push it back in?
yeah it was always too tight
idk i transport my keyboard a lot lately and i just felt like it was too inconvenient
without, i removed everything
Ah okay interesting
but to be honest i prefer the sound signature with
Graveshift O Ring?
nope, ali express
like i said i'm not really handy and i didnt feel like putting an extreme amount of force, it was super annoying getting the thing out and back in
i felt like i might break the pcb and honestly for what it brings it's not worth it
maybe tofu case would be better like @spiral anvil said
but the setup i found feels amazing too
Anyone ever had issues with their spacebar not coming back up after installing new stabs?
Yea but only on stabies or TX
They're too tight for some reason
any fixes or no
Did you make sure to put them in right
I use stock stabs but had that issue because I put my spacebar one in wrong
is there not only one orientation ?
Some people got it work but it depended on the keycaps iirc
Which plate?
Iâm the TX AP Wizard đ§đžââď¸
kbdfans CF
Are they tx ap screw in or clip in
clip
Did you use the shims?
shims?
Little plastic bits that go in the bottom of the clip ins
Should all be connected on a small black plastic pinwheel
don't believe that it came with any
Are they PCB mount clip ins or plate mounted?
plate mount
Ah okay
Then yeah those donât have any
You shouldnât really have issues with the plate mount tx ap, itâs usually with the PCB mount ones that people have issues
Not saying itâs impossible but less likely
Interesting
Tolerances are too tight with some keycaps so it doesn't retract
Did you try using a different spacebar ?
Or try reversing the spacebar to see if it works
Test it with different keycaps
Ill keep u guys posted but maybe fixed it
Sweet
@stray tiger what places do u recommend for lubing the lekkers bc in the video the they say that u can do this and this but this increases the chance of over lubing and stuf so i'm confused
Iâm not him but Iâd recommend lubing the top housing, the bottom housing , the side rails, and the springs
Top housing especially helps with the top out /return sound
And the stavelizers
Since all HE have terrible PC tops
Would u also holee mod where u put a bandaid on the pcb?
Donât do holee mod unless youâre having issues with rattling
Stabilizers, you can lube the stems and inner housings
Can also lube the wire
Where it inserts into the stem
Ok but how do I lube the stabelizers and do I need to wash the desperate switch parts and stabelizers?
Nah
Search up Alexotos How to tune stabs on YouTube
Itâs a video from 2022
Itâs Goated
Ok
Just follow that
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
Here you go
Yep
Ok thanks
I really like this community man
But recommended is to go further on the factory lube
At least that is what u would do
I think
And is it a problem that I don't have dialectric grease
ok so
so my main keycaps
cerakeys
the spacebar was just wayyyy to heavy
so first thing I did was kinda manually just sit there and try and wear in the stabs a bit, till they would work with one of my random pbt keycap sets
and is there any switches that can work with the wootility
then once that worked, i just spammed the space bar a ton until it was more worn in, and now it works ffine with my cerakeys lol. easy enough fix i suppose
U mean with the actuation and things ?
I just put an L60 on mine, rest still L45s. Did the trick.
yea
i did that a while ago just bc the cerakeys are so heavy
I heard that tenz modded his switches but idk wahwt he meant
Oh u mean mods for switches or completely other ones
i have 0 clue about modding I just got my 60he yesterday lol
With other switches u can get different sound and feel I think and with the springs for example u get a lighter feel (I'm also new to modding so don't blaime me if I'm wrong)
but no acuation right
only the default ones
If u get the he switched with magnets u like the jades u can buy on the wooting store those are the same actuation and stuff just other sound that's becouse they have the magnet
And if u change the springs make sure those are not magnetic
seems to be working fine now, also i did the, idk what you would call it, plate foam? and no issues so far, I had seen that other people had issues with / said it wouldnt work but so far so good for me thankfully
switch pad, is what i meant
had to google it lol
and any 60 percent case would work aswell ?
Idk tbh I don't think so
Itâs not a problem, you can lube the wires with 205g0 , just know it is thinner and will settle differently than when you put it in/on
Glad to hear it
Ok thanks for the info
how do you remove a pcb which is friction mounted
Remove the spacebar
Get a switch puller
Put it underneath the plate and lift up slowly
@harsh dove https://omnitype.com/collections/happy-hour
that wouldn't damage the plate?
I use a switch puller or small pliers and pull up carefully from the little hole next to the spacebar
Well watch the plate and make sure itâs not bending excessively
If itâs a PC plate
Also assuming you used plate foam with your friction mount , which makes it harder to remove if so
you have a PC plate right?
olh dear
i will have plate foam i think
For friction mount can I still use the silicone instead of plate foam
Yeah using plate foam makes it harder to remove the PCB with friction mount
Really? Itâs usually extremely tight or too tight to do that
I'm asking if I can
My tofu arrives today and gasket tomorrow
You canât
I see so back to foam it is
I'll experiment when my gasket arrives Friday
has anyone ever found a nice translucent key set for the 60he
There are a ton of cool semi-translucent sets out there, just depends on your budget and color preference
depends on how translucent you want, but PBTfans X-ray is a cool one that is coming soon i hope
X-ray Keycaps A translucent minimal keycap setinspired by transparent tech accessories. Available as an in-stock drop Q2 2024. Scroll down to learn more, and fill out the interest check form to leave feedback as we finalize the design. X-ray Keycaps â Overview X-ray is a keycap set that features a clear-on-white, low-c
Shhh donât tell em about those
I was gonna recommend those at first lol but figured they wanted something actually translucent
Reject RGB, Embrace no lights
im gonna run X-ray on my Mode SixtyFive, but that only has Underglow, no PerKey RGB
Iâm just joking , sarcastically gatekeeping
oh i figured
Inspiration Whenever the Kabuki-cho shows up in all the Japanese novels, anime, and movies I have enjoyed, this scene could be different every time in my imagination. It is the irreplaceable landmark of how a nightlight city like Tokyo could be. Sometimes that is the hustle and bustle you ever want to fit in Specs Mate
oh, also this one
partially translucent. should be coming out tommorow
RGB was a mistake
just close your eyes. cant see the RGB anymore
I don't really like the backlight RGB
If they are ok with semi-transparent you could do PBTFans Pyga, PBTFans Vior, GMK Symbiote (partially) or similar sets but without knowing their budget we cant even start to suggest
Isn't there that one clear set?
PBTFans X-Ray wil be available soon
How many layers of tape mod does everybody use?
0\
3
context?
The adhesive was being pain and it was causing ghosting
There have also been a few reported issues with people applying the tap mod too tight or incorrectly causing the PCB to flex a bit or pull on other switches during keypresses resulting in false acuations. Its a pretty safe mod with the correct tape but dont go crazy
what tape were u using O: i have masking tape which is why im curious
Masking tape works fine for me
i'm not sure if i've done tape mod correct in the first place; i've tried it on my uwu as a test(since it's cheaper and all incase i break something)
i just cut tape a tiny bit shorter than the board, and the slap it on right? or was it supposed to be pulling across
I used my old steel plate to get the tape to cover edge to edge good
I didn't really like the sound anyway
But that's fine
it's practically edge to edge, just not perfect; i did the exact same and used my steel plate xD
Yeah I cut mine so it'd be perfect
Don't think it'll make a sound difference it just looks better (for when I take it apart) đ
Vior is really nice
Just use aluminum flashing tape like me
I saw this, gonna have to pass even tho I like it
At least itâs not GMK SYMBIOTE
iirc, i read somewhere that putting RT on .15 on press/release would lead to issues with the PCB plate, can anyone elaborate? i forgot where I saw it but it was in one of these threads and I was wondering if the problem still persists
Iâve run 0.15 on my RT profile since I got my wooting and never had issues that Iâve noticed
Now if youâre referring to the advanced settings with the option to set different press/release parameters, then I have not done that. Not too sure about that one
Iâd assume it works the same way as having it set to 0.15 across the board if you have both the press and release set to that as well
What did you end up deciding on?
this
i remembered someone saying something along the lines of the pcb plate has a lot of flex, which can cause issues with those inputs and that it was receommended to do nothing lower than .25
Hmm, I havenât tested any of that myself
but since wootility has been updated to adjust (to gateron jades), was wondering if that reseolved the issue
Possibly
My jades still feel off from time to time when doing movement stuff in apex
But itâs worth still
Skill issue
real
Iâll get dead movements and such that I donât on lekkers or raptors
But not enough for me to ever use those over jades 
hmm, ive never had any issues with mine, been using them for a while
Go download the beta firmware that was released today
iirc the beta firmware has some changes to make RT more accurate and consistent so iâm assuming these fixes would help the issues with the PC plate
Transparent or translucent pbtfans has some good stuff I think
I forget to tell people this
has anybody tried the ks20u yet
is that the dual rail one?
yeah
if so then not me sadly, can't find them anywhere online
im on the takka on kbd fans but they don't work on this pcb, and I just wanted to see if they did on the wooting
yeah it's weird how little these switches were promoted in comparison to the jades
i have the ks-20s and they pretty much just feel like the stock lekkers but with less force on the springs
so like 50ish grams?
You got a question abt them?
If you wanna ask personal questions about them, you can ask @harsh dove or @stray tiger , they own them
The KS-20u's (We also like to call them "Peaches") are the dual rails of the KS-20 line. Comparing to the original KS-20 or the Lekker switches, they are definitely better in terms of stem wobble tolerance and top out sound of the switch due to the dual rail system. The operating force on these are 30Âą7gf as the bottom force is 50gf. They have the same pitch sound like the Lekker/KS-20 but without the harsh chatter sound coming from the contact of the stem and top housing.
Comparing to the Jades however, the stem wobble is also improved comparing to the Lekker/KS-20 but from what I seen or heard from CAM's stream, the jades has little to almost no wobble (not saying the jades are worst but both are pretty much incredibly tight and minimal). Jades have a closed bottom out housing so the switch travel distance is reduced to 3.5mm (-0.5mm), which also means the Jades lean towards to the clacky side (or a long pole sounding switch). CAM: 30+-7 - 50g and from what Dan The Man said "It's a 50g end compared to l45s)
dang brooo
Hope that answers some of your questions
apreciate the info man
No problemo
yeah it does apreciate it brotha
If you have any other specific questions like sound tests or what not, go ahead and ask them
thanks, I def will
yo but if you do got a link for like a vod I could watch about them or something like that that would be dope đ
Oh yeah hollup, i can link you to CAM's stream about them, I can try to find other clips but i can send you what i have now
Unboxing and testing out the new Gateron KS20u Dual Rail HE Switches!
Skip to 1 hr for the sound test
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âźĺĺ
Gateron KS-20U: https://mechkeys.com/products/gateron-ks-20u?_pos=1&_sid=440847f13&_ss=r&variant=44792748343519
Gateron KS-20T Jade: https://amzn.to/4cOceFI
Raptor HE: https://amzn.to/3vIvmnD
ăŞăłăŻăŻä¸é¨ă˘ăăŁăŞă¨ă¤ăăĺŠç¨ăăŚăăžăă
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00:00 ă¤ăłăă
01:00 çšĺž´
01:32 ä¸čşŤĺč§Ł
01:53 蝸ăăŹćŻčź
02:50 ăăăăĺĽ
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These are the only 2 links i got for the peaches
lmk if you need anything else
You too man
What kind of o-rings are you talking about?
Messes with actuation
Oh you trying to apply on the keycaps?
Don't do that, sounds and feels mushy
and yes like tsu said messes with actuation
Don't recommend it at all
would advise against doing it and I dont even think those orings fit on the keycap stem anyways
Anyone know where I can get a purple or green wrist rest
Mostly just black or wood that I can find

I found a green marble wrist rest

If I lube the lekker switches, do I lube the inside of the housing like a normal switch? I don't know if it'll mess with performance or not
I believe they addressed that in one of the new betas?
clean. i like it.
Nice
Yooo, I got the same salt lamp, had it since forever
anyone have good recommendations for heavier HE springs?
Wooting will release their own heavier springpacks soon.
oh cool, I'll just wait for that, then
Rumor has it that they arrived to the fulfillment center this week and will be available for sale next week
we have upgraded, finally big left shift and big enter together
probably upgradable with zoom75 HE pcb, when good Tactile HE switches come, but this is enough for more casual gaming tho
but even with this board, there is some little wrong switch alignment on pcb a few places/clusters. how hard is it to get it aligned correctly when making it..
look at left shift, too high up, and also the bottom left Ctrl OS Alt a bit too far down, so there is even bigger gap there. (also Tab)
is stuff like this covered by warranty
60he w/ gateron jades, KBDFans CF plate, TX AP long pole stabs (lubed), case foam, switch pad, black blank cerakeys.
sound test is a little scuffed cuz i cant turn the fan off but you get the idea.
I decided I'm gonna make the thockiest wooting build possible then name it the thockfather lol
Im thinking of buying raptor HEs but is it required to swap the stems out?
No
Just a cool mod
Does change it quite a bit tho
Source: has stem swapped raptors
What are the differences between the lekkers v1 and v2 ?
It seems like just tighter tolerances
Decrease wobble
But Iâm not certain
Iâm still holding out for that new new good good later on down the road
hmmmm ok
What does the stem swap do tbh I'm hard debating raptors ks20u and jades
Highly advised due to the magnets
Oh yeah that part
Um like tighter feel, lower and more muted sound.
But also like itâs not 100% compatible cuz sometime thereâs a little too much friction
Iâd say itâs pretty good like 90-95% work pretty effortlessly tho
Honestly I think I'm gonna go with raptors because they sound almost as good as jades and for performance they are #1
RAPTOR HE Magnetic Switch Switch Type - Magnetic Linear Operating Force - 42.0g Bottom-out Force - 52.0g Spring Length - 16.0mm, NAS wire Spring Type - Single-Stage Pre Travel - Analog Top Housing Material - PA12 NYLON Bottom Housing Material - PA66 NYLON Stem Material - POM Full Travel - 4.0mm M...
Legit or no?
@stray tiger I removed the switches and stabelizers but I'm confused with what pencil I should use hc with the wooting tool set u have a big black one and a really.thin white one so Wich should I use for what and how much lube
And also I don't know what are the amounts of lube u should use to not overlube and where ?
Bc this is my first time
And should I put the switches back in when I screwed it to the pcb or should 8 do it when the plate is loose
You could watch a tutorial but in general less is more just brush a thin layer on the housing stem and springs
And what brush?
I do recommend a tutorial tho but if you see the white of the lube you went too far just the shine is enough
And where?
Mostly preference
A basic tutorial on lubing MX style switches.
There may be affiliate links
Krytox 205g0: Check out my sponsors down below + https://kineticlabs.store/taehatypes/205g0
Switch opener: https://kiiboss.studio/products/mx-keyswitch-opener https://kineticlabs.store/taehatypes/2-in-1-switch-opener
Paintbrushes: https://amzn.to/2M8z57r
Stem holder: ...
What I meant that if you put so much lube that you see white then that's too much
Just should be a thin reflection
Yeah I know but what is the best bc I think with a thicker brush I can get more into the stabelizers though
For the stabs you need both dialectic grease and 205g0
I do t have dialectric grease
And for proper tuning get a syringe
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
This sounds really good, but I imagine if you set the actuation too low, the keys go off if you blow on them
Cerakeys are pretty heavy, right
The Band-Aid mod is among the easiest mods around there and requires the least number of tools.
This mod should eliminate high-pitched sounds from the stabilizers hitting the PCB, making the sound a bit softer. Let's see how it performs in this video!
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This one
Yeah but he is using screw in stabelizers
I'm using the stock ones
really its not too bad, did have to spring swap all of the stabbed keys thought
My goal is to swap the springs on the raptors to make them a little heavier
I figure I could go a little lighter on the actuation, anything lighter than 1mm is way too light right now
I think the raptors only have a 52g bottom out or something like that
It's almost the same
Yeah, that's crazy to me haha
nowadays cuz of all the mods i use like .3 on most keys and like 1mm on my bigger keys
Ah and the switches? Do u recommend a tutorial for that to?
also had to tweak my rapid trigger a tad to get things to not double activate
And what about this one
I would probably get so many accidental actuations with it that low
The Band-Aid mod is among the easiest mods around there and requires the least number of tools.
This mod should eliminate high-pitched sounds from the stabilizers hitting the PCB, making the sound a bit softer. Let's see how it performs in this video!
⤠Follow our socials!
đ§âđ¤âđ§ Discord https://wooting.io/discord
đ¤ Twitter https://www.twitter.c...
Dont band-aid your stabs
Is there anything else you wanna do besides lube and tune stabs and switces
Yeah band aid mod and holee is unnecessary
holee/bandaid mod is kind of a nightmare to do correctly and you don't get a ton of benefit
Tbh no benefit
Uh I am switching to a PC plate
if anything, the plumber's tape mod is easier
Sometimes it's even worse
That will give you more thock
yeah, if your bandaids are too thick, the stabs will become super mushy
No one likes a soggy bottom lol
Just start with a good lube on the switches and stabs and thats 90% of it
For 80% of people its all they need
But idk if u answered it but when should I put my switches in in only the PC plate or should I screw it to my pcb first
Fr just lube and tune your stabs
Whatever screw-in stabs that come on the module are godlike
R u using raptors
Put switches in last. Screw plate together first to make it easier but there is no wrong way
I didn't have to do anything
Lekkers
Ok thank u for helping
Oh well lekker sound pretty bad usually so maybe instead of lubing just get one of the three main options that are all pre lubed
Plus tbh the price of a new switch isn't much more than lube and tools
Nah I had to chose between switches or a 3080
He already bought the lube kit, just lube your Lekkers and youll be about the same as the other options
Ok thx
Yeah lubed lekker are about as good as a ks20u
Ah ok
Oh if he has a lube kit he doesn't need dialectic just the molkoyte
Yep that works too
Bro follow the lubing tutorial but when ever he uses dialectic grease on his stabs put molkoyte instead
@stray tiger what is the pencil I should use the thick or the really thin one
Pencil?
Brush sorry
do you mean brush?
Yeah
Any just try out all the thin ones you have and find the one u like best
When I get home again I will send a picture of both
Awesome can't wait
BTW one thing lol
You said you had a pc plate any other mods you got planned other than plate swap and lube
Uh tape mod and maybe in the future case swap to a tofu becouse now I'm rocking the stock case
But I dnt have molykite
fan gives more accurate audio as it gives idea of sound level and your room
also thank you for using a real mic and not your phone for sound test

Warranty? It's called hope that Meletrix actually decides to help you out 
or Wuque Studio whatevs
Wich brush should I use for what!
?
And if I lube my switches should I wash them to remove the factory lube
Always wondered how you can lubricate your lekker switches or grease your stabilizer wire. In this video, we will deep dive on different methods of lubing and some general tips and tricks. Using the Wooting 60HE.
Krytox GPL 205G0 and Molykote EM-50L lubricant:
https://region.wooting.store/products/lubrication-set-krytox-205g0-molykote-em-50l
:...
Don't think it matters all too much what brush you use. i used the black one for lubing my switches
lube over the factory lube
Factory lube is fine to leave on and brush is up to you. No wrong or right but I prefer larger brushes for the 205g0
I like to use the top of lid of the lube jar to get off any excess I miss wiping off on the side, and to get a nice even layer
^ I did today, good thing you said something about an update in the chat eariler
I do actually notice a difference with my jades
I have not yet actually
The latest beta release is pretty much a release candidate at this point
I'll go do that now
am I the only one absolutely not interested in rappy snappy from how it's going to be used standpoint? Like I'm glad more features and such so not that
I have no idea on if Ill use it or not. Depends on whether I even notice a difference for things like counterstrafing etc
In what way 
lurch tech
it will become literally impossible to overlap inputs
It already has been near flawless for me since I've been on 60he in 2022
that sounds like it could be INSANE for lurch tech
its a night and day difference for me with rapid trigger on and off, but i still kinda just suck at lurch tech
neo strafing and superglides already easy as is for me now so I guess I'll see if rappy snappy even changes anything
superglides are easy but i cant neo strafe or anything
i can get a clip of my trying its kinda sad
I mean tbh I don't do it often as messes up my aiming
Yeah Im just keeping an open mind and waiting to see. Might be an amazing feature for me or I might never use it.
Indeed
I was just trying to think of a scenario, before night mentioned lurch tech in apex, where I would ever even need this
im excited to try it i dont know how good it will actually be though
@stray tiger this one?
damn i got even worse at lurch tech/neo strafing
fucking discord
I have like 4000 hours so I would hope it didn't get worse for me 
i just recently hit 1k
đ
half my hours have been on roller too

im so ass on kbm now
I tried roller as grew up on them, but man it's just boring getting r99 one clips over and over
I do more consistent damage and such, but it takes the fun out of it
yeah after my rsi i started playing more roller again
the more i use it the more washed i get on kbm
rip
the more washed i am the harder kbm is
Nope sounds good from my end. Over lubing is more of a feel than a sound though. If the switch feels mushy or slow to return, thats overlubed
Ok thx
why not
99% of the time not needed, 90% of the time its done wrong and makes things worse
I would dare say 100% honestly
Can't think of a single time I've seen it benefit or improve for anyone including myself
Yeah just properly luning and tubing your stabs will get em good more often than not imo
I sent you a link to the NK flash Friday sale. Metropolis for $75
Yeah I saw that, thank you
hey, any updates on new sticky rices?
It sounds a little bit on my end but that's preference
Hi guys! The port is kinda far away from tofu60 redux case, am i alright with using it like this? I mean cable fits well, but im kinda afraid đĽś
mines like this too, it just seems to come out easily
i was able to push it ahead a little when i was mounting it and it seems to have gotten better
when i was tightening the screws i just made sure the pcb was as far forward as it could be
Found one more angle for better look
if you plug in your cable the end of the world will arrive
be careful with this new found knowledge
Bruh
you can try unscrewing and re screwing the PCB, but from the looks of it, probably not a problem (not legally binding advice)
It still works but is very easy to unplug accidentally
I was able to get it a bit better by pushing my PCB as far up as possible but it still has a small gap, but no longer accidentally unplugs
should be fine then
I won't get them until next week
im new when it comes to the wooting settings i play fps games like cod fortnite and destiny 2 anyone with knowledge on what i should tweak in my wooting 60% would be awsome
this is what i would use as a base
and just make specific profiles for games where you need to mess with extra keys/add more rapid trigger keys etc
thx so no rapid trigger makes sense thx for the help @marsh saffron
yeah i only use it on wasd
and some games that need extra binds that could benefit from it put it on those
Any switch for the Wooting boards are as sensitive as you set them in Wootility.
Try xD
yeah my switches sound a bit clackier than that
All I hear if foam and pbt keycaps
but ive genuinely heard some pretty damn good sounding lekkers
im not talking about actuation
im talking about the switch sensitivity
not tb switch actuation weight either
Im not sure what he means
Mine actually didnt sound bad i had filmed them and lubed + tapemod
ive only got lube on mine
with PC plate and tape mod + wooting foam in a tofu
sounds really good but still has that lekker clack
I also have the pc tofu redux case
I might try this config with the alumaze i have it anyway might aswell try but i think i like the poly more
im waiting for some silent/thocky HE switches that are compatible to come out before buying new switches
my oring for friction mount arrives today
excited to see how that sounds
Mine are geonworks raptor he (frankenswitch)
Im bored waiting for a package I should finaly make a proper soundtest of my 60he like all my other boards
What ya got as in keybs ?
I have a Haus, F1-8X, Julie, Zoom75, and salvation
and my 60he is just friction mounted in a freebird60
for friction mount you dont use any screws at all in the case right?
ye
is the friction enough that you can still line usbc up in tofu fine?
my oring is out for delivery rn
was fine when I did my tofu
Ah zoom 75 also have one i have the lilith (lego keyboard from kbd) i have a tofu2.0 /wooting and mode envoy
alright
Good afternoon mates
heh-
no idk what ur tb, not spring weights either, im getting the raptors because their magnet is the most sensitive and actuates the wooting the fastest
The usuals tbh
i know what im doing in my game im not gonna accidentally press it
getting 20g springs too
it doesnt actuate them any faster
No like how many as in numbers of mods
pretty sure thats the weight, i think i forgot a bit tho
Wait usuals as in just lubing?
No aside from lubing
oh
the magnet being stronger doesnt make them have less latency
What switches you got in your board
Raptor he
i said words that make the most sense, no ones being literal.
if its .1mm then its .1mm, but if the magnent is more sensitive than its going to have the board think that its reached .1mm before it has
Ah
Sounds deeper(thockier) irl tho
no one has said it has lower latency and i doubt that you believe anyone assumed that
thats not a good thing dude
You just lubed them?
for most, obv
Like recently?
for nobody
No i did more
Oh? Whatchu do
Hmm i made it 2-3 days ago
im not a casual lol, i appreciate the concern but if worst comes to worst i buy heavier springs n made a slim mistake
I think you said filming right?
im not a casual either you just dont understand what you are talking about đ
Actually that was about the lekker heâs
bros thinks hes the prophet
But i did the frankenswitch (springswap/and using the stems of lekker on raptor he)
Ic
I can see what you mean by your board sounding deeper irl
i too put foam in my space bar
Yea at first i didnt want one but it was the only redux in stock at the time
i was kinda surprised how much foam in my spacebar did
Wait redux? you mean acrylic?
yea i dont understand what im tb lol
where did you get that from
like idk exactly what im doing đ
you clearly dont
Ah yea acrylic mb
Is it a good idea to buy ceramic keycaps with gateron jades? Won't they be pressing by themselves or something like it?
If you're worried about the ceramic keycaps being to heavy you can spring swap into something heavier
Even if so springswap with stronger ones
If you have the L60's it should be fine
0.1mm doesnt come faster it just overloads the sensor past a certain actuation đ
There's spring packs coming out soon, heavier and lighter than the 60's
Thank you guys I think I'll do just what you've advised
300g lekkers incoming
it appears my mic might have been damaged in moving 
Btw any of you audiophile enthusiasts?
Nah :D
Ditched keyboard modding for a month or two trying to learn stuff abt audio
For anyone that swapped the lekkers for gatreons jades apart from the issues with the space bar stabilisers do the other stabiliser keys also have issues?
Yes
Ive had no issues at all
@harsh dove Okay i tried the friction mount again and it's fucking amazing I don't think I ever want to go back. I just need to tune backspace which i found super high pitched for some reason since i did that but holy crap the whole board sounds very good and homogenous and the feel is not bad at all. I kept the foam at the bottom btw
Only issues I've had with stabs was with TX AP
Glad you got it the way you want it
Got some recommendations?
nice!
Budget, what form factor
how does it feel compared to tray mount
Open or closed
I like openback (used the dt-990pro and 770 pro and i am currently using sen hd660s2
Got links for the parts ?
Budget?
what's friction mount?
800-1k also i could use a better dac-amp if you know anything about those
What you got currently for DAC/Amp?
Schiit Stack
Its when you mount ur pcb without screws (mostly using orings or gaskets to friction mount it to thz case
A very shitty fiio x11 or sum
using an o ring between the plate and pcb you can get it in the case i think
euuuhm what parts do you want?
therell be friction cause of the o ring so it wont just fall out
The oring tbh
instead of screwing the pcb you put an oring around the plate and try to make it fit in the case by pushing very hard
graveshift orings
^
ali express ill get it
this is where i ordered mine from, it arrives today
got it. i heard 60he+ module wont work with such an oring?
someone got it to work apparently..
you just need thinner one iirc
or something like that
Btw i might have overdone the foam and my pcb is slightly bent i hope that wont be an issue as in accuracy and timing ?
this is what i used
Any prefered tuning
Od105 3 mm ?
I like the usuall v shaped sound but i want to sway away from that i want to have clearer high tones and snappy bass
Philphone my beloved
Great bass for an open back
Oh heard about it is it ok for ingame aswell ? Directional audio ?
Should be
could just buy some truthear x crin zeros for gaming and something better for listening to music/watching stuff
the zeros are op in game lol
Oh ill check it out thats also an option
i have some zero reds and they are op asf also sound great for music
i use them as my main for everything (im not an audiophile)
they are very cheap as well
like 50-60 usd iirc
Comparable to hd660s2 ?
Don't have HD660s2 but compared to HD6XX yea
Because to be honest i like the hd6xx more than 660s2
I think they really flopped there are no real upgrades in my opinion
Honestly source memes are for that last 5%
Probably can get the Fosi DS1 and forget about sources
Or go for their new desktop setup
I think ill go this route im looking for mainly desk dac amps
SK1 iirc
Sources aren't really worth investing too much into outside of power requirements
Kinda true aslong as it runs it should be fine
Yep
Been running my 600Ohm buds just fine

Ah feels good man
Thanks for the recommendations ill check it out and let you know đ
Hey everyone, have had my 60he modded for a while, but been changing/modifying it so much I didn't feel like recording. I have it where I want it for the moment as HE is in a spot (personally) where you can only do so much and it still doesn't sound nearly as good or close to an MX board. The top out always has this "HE Rattle" as I've come to c...

I love that spacebar
Random baby cat pic
and it loves you
yooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
i want jades now xd
You bought a lube kit you should have molkoyte and krytox
@harsh dove I went daring for you today, might be to over the top
alot xd
mines got a lot of pink
soon my mouse will also be pink when bxm comes in
discord butchering the photo per usual đ
im jealous of that table and monitor arm :D
Terrible
too much color I know
(Pic from last night)
My terrible âcopperâ setup lol
copper as you can get it haha
lol ye
ahh shit is that T too
sony man

just got done with forbidden west and was funny when you stab people and nothing happens
Bro you literally slice people in half and slice their heads off in Tsushima and nothing happens
The whole animation is there
Just no gore
thats, kinda shitty
there was a couple other things in HFW that had me like
đ¤¨
but otherwise it was good
@stray tiger getting a alot of double presses aanaddddd dthat from new firmware
there was an e aple in the sentence
oh nice one kkey nhot working too
Unplug and replug
where do i find the beta build of wootility?
huh are you on a chromium browser?
i use firefox
firefox does not support webusb unfortunately, so it will not work
firefox just doesnt want to support webusb so gotta use something like edge, chrome brave arc, anything chromium based would work
uncommon firefox L
so is that a no there isnt a downloadable beta version
oh that was your question lol, dont think theres a downloadable version
thats annoying
wait maybe im wrong check here https://wooting-technologies.notion.site/Wootility-release-notes-009fb6cac9c7418ab0718ea228a64988
what os
win11
thanks tony
i hope its up to date havent checked in with it since switching from firefox to arc on windows
Yes that is a semi assembled keyboard
fairly certain its the right one
same build number i was on just beta
thanks for the help i couldnt find it for the life of me
as long as its 4.6.16-beta its all good
yep its the right one thanks
yeah that firmware messed up my DKS too
just swapped back to one i was on and shall withhold for the moment
Mine seems to working fine
I'm still using lekkers though
RAPTOR HE Magnetic Switch Switch Type - Magnetic Linear Operating Force - 42.0g Bottom-out Force - 52.0g Spring Length - 16.0mm, NAS wire Spring Type - Single-Stage Pre Travel - Analog Top Housing Material - PA12 NYLON Bottom Housing Material - PA66 NYLON Stem Material - POM Full Travel - 4.0mm M...
Is that legit idk bc 0 reviews and the brand is pakjel not geon?
Love it
i've read people using cerakeys fine, 50/50 on if the spacebar will be too heavy without spring replacement
but also read that if you get them with legends, they wear pretty quick as in a month or two
Probably with early V1's, which are discontinued. Have had V2s with legends for 3 months now, no issues.
ooo that's good news then. I plan to order some gateron jades and cerakeys but been debating if i should just go for PBTs instead. Might just hop on for cerakeys
If going Jades might have to spring swap to compensate weight of the spacebar. FWIW I'm on L45s with L60 for spacebar only.
oh my god friction mount feels so good
it feels softer
cuz im going to friction mount as well
the bottom out feels a lot softer
was a bit of a pain to get in but once i figured out a decent way to do it, it wasnt bad
thats good to hear. are you using screw in stabs?
no i have the stock plate mount of the regular 60he
ah okay
lubed/tuned
for screw ins you just need a thinner oring i think cam said
the website i ordered mine off gave me a free switch
white housing with a pink stem, its non HE
a single switch?
feels linear
yeah ive seen keyboard enthusiat companies do that all the time
just send out random switches for people to just play with/maybe consider buying
oh damn. iâm only into the wooting modding community so i never saw this
ive seen it from people posting about it here but first time it happened to me
switches?
lubed switches and stabs
its still pretty good but nowhere near what mine feels like/sounds like
cuz i keep hearing people saying normal customs feel better to type on but i donât understand that really
especially with jades and ks20U now
HE switches kinda suck
oh oh
in terms of sound
jades are like the best example of good sounding HE switches as of rn
yeah i can agree with that but im talking mainly about feel
when typing
i havent tried anything but lekkers so i cant personally say
yup
but stem wobble and open bottom is a big issue with he switches people say
oh youre still on lekkers right
the open bottom makes the bottom out not feel good
and you hear more keycap/plate than actual switch noise
good thing i bought jades i guess?
yeah they help a lot for sound and feel
i only didnt buy them because im waiting for silent switches
yup
i want a deep sounding jadeâŚ
yeah if jades were more thocky/a lot deeper
id have picked them up no hesitation
but they are a bit higher pitched than id like
same i only hesitated cause itâs on the clackier side but its 3.5 mm and thats what im used to
i think ill get used to it so its find
fine**
i wish those sticky rice or whatever they are called were more compatible with wooting
they sound so good
i might try out stuff like MLV and moleskin tape
but they overload the sensor at like 3mm or some shit
im just using masking tape but want to try moleskin






